Making a REAL Battery from Scratch | Part 1
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- Опубліковано 30 тра 2024
- In today's video I'll be making a fully functional, 3D Printed Zinc-Carbon Battery, from scratch. And as if that wasn't cool enough, instead of using a solid graphite positive electrode, I'll be using a flexible form of graphite called Pyrolytic Graphite Sheets (PGS), normally used for thermal interfaces.
I've been quite fascinated by batteries for quite a while now, and I also love chemistry, so when I made my video on the Pyrolytic Graphite Sheets a few weeks ago, this idea popped up almost instantly.
The reason being that Zinc Carbon batteries usually use a graphite rod as their positive electrode (current collector), so I thought how cool would it be if I made my own version substituting the graphite rod with a flexible graphite sheet? Turns out, pretty cool!
If this video does well, I'll make several of these cells and use them to power something really interesting! So if this video was cool/entertaining, please make sure to leave a Like and/or subscribe!
PGS Graphite Video: • The Closest Thing to G...
Outro Music:
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Chapters:
00:00 Intro
00:39 Materials & Chemicals
01:41 3D Printed Battery Shell
03:22 Electrolyte Application & Separator Overview
04:38 Cathode Material Preparation
07:30 Cathode Half-Cell Assembly
10:49 Separator Assembly
13:43 Anode Half-Cell Assembly
16:27 Battery Assembly
18:07 Sealing with Rubber Cement
19:11 Preparing Electrodes for Testing
22:10 Electrolyte Preparation
24:42 Final Adjustments
25:15 Activating the Battery
32:55 Outro - Наука та технологія
I forgot to mention that the reason I had this idea is because normally, zinc carbon batteries have graphite rods going down the centre, but here I’m basically replacing the rod with a flexible sheet
Small correction about your current collector, this material is not actually pyrolytic graphite, but what is sometimes referred to as „graphite foil“, „grafoil“ or expanded graphite foil. You are essentially thermally expanding intercalated graphite before pressing it back down creating a uniquely layered structure allowing for high flexibility.
I wonder if it could be made rechargeable if you used invert/reverse opal instead of paper/cotton; and you used nonreactive titanium or gold which was merely plated in the reactive metal for the metals🤔 what would happen man?
@@niaschimnoski882 all batteries are rechargeable at least one time anyway? it what batteries made from, and how destructive the making of escaping electrons are made (making one time use batteries (hint: one time use, the manufacture, put it's first charge, in, an started the slow self destruction beginning, on NOT rechargeable battery)
The homemade copper connector idea is genius! Great video
Thanks!
I wish people just call it a "3d printed case for whatever" or "whatever using 3d printing" as opposed to "3d printed whatever".
This. Typical UA-camrs thinking we all live in US and can just order any arbitrary thing of off Amazon. And they usually have a fully loaded workshop in their garage.
@@simp-slayer respectfully, can I ask why you live in a shitty country? no offense, amazon is available 131 countries..
the biggest current limiter here is the amount of separator material. The ions have to move a lot inside of the cell to do their job and that increases the internal resistance by a lot
Yeah that’s what I suspected too, next time I’ll be using a lot less of it in exchange for more active materials
Fascinating video, very glad UA-cam recommended this to me. Looking forward to seeing more!
Glad you enjoyed it!
thats no little project man, this is serious, youre building a real battery, not just slapping together some foil and fish filter media.
Thanks that means a lot!
This comment made me watch the video lol, well after watching every one of your shorts @keon, super entertaining content!
Thanks so much 😊 I’m SO glad you guys enjoyed the video and I promise I’ll be making even cooler follow-up videos for this project.
I really, really appreciate the comments, they’re what give me the motivation to wanna make more videos :)
@@devonwilliams2423same. We sub deff. This is the kind of stuff I wish I was taught in school instead of Spanish or “Rock and roll history” like wtf class was that? My teacher just told stories about doing drugs with bands when he was our age. Seemed creepy trying to be “yeah I’m 60 now but you’d try to ride me if you met the young me” kind of creepy.
This is what my brain desired as a kid. Not random bs
Zinc carbon batteries actually use a mixture of zinc chloride and ammonium chloride. This electrolyte is not rechargeable though.
This also works well with just zinc sulphate, and makes the cell rechargeable. 1 molar ZnSO4 works. For extended cycle life, add 0.2 molar manganese sulphate. This stops the manganese dioxide from degrading as quickly. Good luck mate, excellent project!
By the way, I also experimented with cells using graphite foil electrodes. They’re very good for testing, and make prototypes really easy to assemble. Personally, I used 4cm by 2cm clear sticky labels for a case, and just used one layer of absorbent separator. Stick one piece of graphite foil or zinc foil to each label (after pasting the graphite foil with the cathode mix and drying it to make it solid, of course) then add the separator moistened with electrolyte, and stick the two labels together to seal it. A poor man’s pouch cell..
Yeah I unfortunately didn’t have any zinc chloride when I recorded this, but I’ve gotten some Zinc Oxide that I’ll use to make some. I really want to compare the performance of the two electrolytes on their own and then with both mixed together.
Love the methods you used and also showed everything, liked how you tested too. keep up the good work
I'm pretty sure you could print this battery in place.
Start printing and print a few layers. Stop. Place the carbon strip. Keep printing (with the strip in place, fused to the plastic molten over it?) up the walls. Top with the black powder (sorry, 3D printing nerd, not a chemist myself!) and place as much absorbent material as you want and top with the solution. Secure the zinc stripe on top, and finish the top layers.
Pros:
- You could batch print like 10 of these if you had the materials ready
- You don't need to post process the batteries, they should be ready as soon as the printer finishes
Cons:
- Some material may be heat sensitive, and thus may make this process harder or impossible
Loved the video, keep up the good work!
That’s an interesting idea, I’m not too sure how well the top layer would turn out, also one of the reasons I made 3 pieces is so that excess material could be placed to provide some compression force when they lock together with the ridges that form when they’re 3D printed.
But with a custom jig or something it could be possible.
Thanks for watching!
I have been searching for this for years. Thanks for sharing. Waiting for follow-up videos.
Thanks! I’m super glad you found the video interesting! And there will be quite a few follow-up videos too!
I dont know if youre going to make another one of these. I hope you do.
I was thinking that since its 3d printed could you use CA glue + baking soda to instantly set the exterior seal? Rubber cement seems to take forever if its going to take over night to set.
Yeah I’ll be making a whole lot more using more materials and Zinc Chloride electrolyte just like commercially available cells.
The baking soda and CA glue is a good idea,
I might use it if there aren’t any visible gaps between the pieces, I’m just scared that the baking soda will somehow get inside the cell and affect the performance.
I have some silicone “glue” too that I could also use. The rubber cement also lets the electrodes flex a tiny bit when the alligator clips are on.
I’ve been looking for a video like this! Thanks man!
You’re welcome!!! :)
The images running through my head for that music track were aerial views panning along rushing rivers and scenic vistas. And what really drove home the "Nature's Power" motif, wildlife and big game clashing.
So yeah, I guess it was giving PBS documentary, Wild Planet, or even People are Awesome. LMAO
Thats a fun build and I love to see other battery nerds show up in the comments. Im looking forward to the next video.
The next video on these is going to be even cooler! I can’t wait to make it!
What an awesome build!
Thanks! I’m so glad you like it! :)
You almost could've powered a Game Boy!
Great project
Thanks I really appreciate it!
How much power does a typical game boy consume?
@@KeonsLab I recently watched a video called "The Insane Engineering of the Gameboy", it was the most power efficient console at the time, using 4x AA batteries at around 0.7 watts of power
Ok now that is impressive! And they had to be too since the batteries were expensive for parents to replace
Sweet. Put it into a double or triple A form factor and you can power the apocalypse.
That’s the plan for the next video on these!
Great work, man! It's awesome!
Thanks!!!
Can the cell be recharged? (without adding electrolyte)
I actually might try that. Technically they’re supposed to be single use cells, especially with the ammonium chloride electrolyte, but I think it could maybe be possible to “recharge” it just a very tiny bit. But it wouldn’t actually be a real recharged cell.
@@KeonsLab The zinc might recharge to some extent. but the manganese dioxide doesn't do as well for recharging. The graphite contributes to conductivity while ever-so-slightly behaving as a low value supercapacitor.
You can use a neutral electrolyte like sodium sulfate or sodium aluminum sulfate which is more reversible than ammonium chloride. but beware of zinc dendrites over many cycles.
Ive made a small cylindrical wound supercapacitor using two identical nickel strips from battery spotwelding strips. coated in a thin layer of 50/50 mixture of graphite and activated carbon producing about 15 farads and a maximum current of 15 amps if short circuited. Similar size once rolled up to the cells you made. which proved to be a lot more rechargeable and higher performance and capacity than faffing about with zinc or manganese dioxide. I used a very thin separator from a length of thin coffee filter roll cut to size between the electrodes
I made a slurry with the graphite and activated carbon with 10% by weight binder to active material and used white glue (I used double the amount of white glue since its already 50% water in the bottle before using to get an actual 10% by weight ratio)
Then made it into a slurry and deposited it and spread it as a thin layer with a syringe on the nickel strips. Make sure the strips are clean before-hand. maybe clean with a mild solvent like isopropyl or something to get the active material to wet onto the surface better. I coated both sides of both electrodes.
A very small one only about 1.25 inches by 0.4 inches was about to produce 0.57 farads at 500mA if shorted. and could power a small DC motor for a few seconds. or an LED with a solar garden light circuit hooked to it for a few minutes. the nickel graphite and activated carbon supercapacitor battery version goes to about 1 volt maximum. so you could put a few in series and get more voltage and performance.
Oh now THIS is what I’m talking about!!! Supercapacitors, I LOVE SUPERCAPACITORS!
Such a cool experiment that you’ve mentioned here, I had no idea something like sodium alum would actually provide decent results! It must be some kind of EDLC you’ve made right?
May I ask what you meant when you said the supercapacitor battery version?
Also, the graphite and activated carbon setup reminds me a lot of lithium ion supercapacitors, there’s one type of them that uses exactly those as the electrodes, except the electrolyte contains lithium ions! Meaning it exhibits both the properties of traditional EDLCs and lithium ion batteries! (to a certain extent)
I must try this out at some point. If I do and it turns out really nice, would you mind if I made a video on it? I would of course mention/show your comment and how it’s where I got the idea from. If not that’s fine too.
@@KeonsLab You should do some research and try to make it! I would love to see a video of it.
I recommend loosely following some of the information described and make several small-scale test cells to see which exhibits the highest performance and capacity.
As a starting point you might want to consider two nickel electrodes for both current collectors. Make sure their surfaces are well-cleaned and prepared with isopropyl or another effective cleaning solvent that doesn't leave behind any residuess.
A starting point could be a 50/50 by weight activated carbon or charcoal to graphite powder. For 10 grams of active material. use 100ml or 100g of water approximately. Use 10% by weight adhesive or binder like white wood glue or similar to dry active material weight. Also make sure you take into account if the adhesive or binder already contains water or another solvent already. Many wood glues are 50% water by weight to glue. so you'd use twice as much to get a 10% by weight binder to active material.
Mix it thoroughly for 30 minutes to an hour with a motorized stirring device. ensuring you don't introduce bubbles to the solution during mixing.Mix it thoroughly for 30 minutes to an hour with a motorized stirring device. ensuring you don't introduce bubbles to the solution during mixing.
Use a syringe to extract and carefully deposit the mixture onto the nickel strips or current collectors
Nickel should not be substituted with other metals though. as the property is unique to nickel that allows the high conductivity and corrosion resistance
You might be able to substitute nickel with the graphite foil for both electrodes. however I don't recommend other metals.
Stainless steel works but the conductivity is very poor.
If you want to use aluminum sulfate with sodium sulfate together. go for the graphite foil option. as aluminum sulfate would be corrosive to the nickel.
You want to aim for a very thin layer of active material. Not a thick gooey paste.
It should be thin and fluid Use the tip of the syringe to help spread it evenly onto the nickel or graphite foil current collectors.
Let it dry a full 24 hours before using (VERY IMPORTANT. be patient)
Use a plastic spring clamp with some plastic sheets or 3D printed jig or something to clamp the cell together so that the electrodes remain in gentle but firm contact with one another.
Charge to a maximum of 1 volt with nickel electrode current collectors.
Experiment with the graphite foil electrode current collectors up to 2 volts to see when gas evolution begins. You'll notice by either small bubbles visible. or decrease in performance or the current draw is steady or no longer decreases.
You could put several in series for more voltage if you want later.
You could make several parallel alternating layer electrodes with one or both sides coated in active material. Or a cylindrical spiral wound jelly roll type cell.
Make sure you cut or shape the electrodes so you have some leads to attach it to a power source and load.
I achieved an internal resistance of under 1 ohm with a tiny strip only 1.25 inches by 0.4 inches of surface area with a thin active material layer. 0.57 farads and 500mAh maximum discharge current if shorted to the multimeter at the 10 amp scale. Could even power a small DC motor for a few seconds pulling 100mA of current! Very small but mighty. and rechargeable.
For even distribution of the graphite +NMO2 you may want to consider using a forming press to make like a biscuit. You could use electrolite as a binder.
Yeah I’m going to 3D print a mold and I’ve ordered some dextrin to use as a binder too. I’m going to dampen the powder with distilled water & dextrin, then leave it in the mold to dry into a hard puck.
Seems perfect, my concern is that some particles that small could have a hydrophobic effect. Just make sure the electrolyte can permeate it.
Oh that’s definitely a good point I didn’t even think of that! In this case I might just stick with simply increasing the cathode material and also experimenting with potentially increasing the surface area of the graphite sheet (since it’s a compressible type that keep its shape)
It is true that graphite powder is horribly hydrophobic. Adding any kind of polymer or sugar really helps though. Dextrin may well work. You could also try PVP. Ironically it’s what glue sticks are made of, but you can buy it as a pure powder too. Just make sure to keep the binder content low, like 5% of the electrode mass. If there’s too much, it makes the whole electrode a very bad conductor of electricity.
I did a bit more research into the exact cathode composition for zinc carbon cells, and it seems like carbon black is used instead of graphite powder because it absorbs liquids a lot better, so I’ve ordered some carbon black powder to use instead. Hopefully it’ll give better results
Very cool, nice job!
Thanks! ☺️
I mean, the case is the only 3d printed part of the battery but I guess you can 3d print the entire thing using a cocoapress? Good video.
Omg cocoa press is a CHOCOLATE 3D PRINTER!? You might be onto something here, if it’s meant to store and extrude paste like molten chocolate (I saw a video of one YEARS ago and they were pretty accurate!)
There’s no way that after some modifications it wouldn’t be able to deposit battery electrode slurries?
Yeah, with that much current draw you're plowing headlong right into the Peukert effect. That's why the voltage climbs back up after. But it's a neat design. The obvious next step is to standardize production a bit so you can test variables independently; in particular, I wonder what using an acid-free paper and avoiding absolutely any additions that the solvent (and electrolysis) might pull into solution and mess with the chemistry.
But this also seems like a reusable platform for other chemistries, though some with more powerful acids might require a post-processing step (coating in something like a thin layer of silicone) to keep the acid from attacking the filament. But a stack of nickel-iron cells would be extremely resilient and fully rechargeable...
Oh that’s a neat idea, nickel-iron cells are quite simple too. For the zinc carbon cells I’ll be testing out different electrolytes and better cathode materials to try and get as close as possible to the performance of commercially made cells.
I think that would be the coolest thing, to be able to power electronics using my own battery cells!
This was a very good and informative video. +1 sub. Some of your other videos look interesting. I look forward to seeing you improve the design and what you can power with this!
The conductive surfaces in battery needs etched in order to activate whole surface. First rinse in alcohol then a hot bath of an alkaline then distilled rinsed. Then a solution of acid. Then rinse then hold in a weak solution of electrolytes. Also you need to weigh the powder. Then add 99% alcohol so the dust won’t be issue. Make the solution of powder not freaking wet. So when you add a dot to a scale you can weigh out exact lump of powder to card. This method is generally how lithium batteries are made. Also. This powder. Could be mixed with electrolytes instead powder. I recommend making some graphene to add to powder. This will fill gaps in powder. Allowing more surface area. Also in small beaker put powder and electrolytes and stir rod. Let it stir. Add two marbles. On each side magnetic stir rood. Let this run till you can’t stand it anymore. Over night. This will make your powder even more fine. But keep it wet. Use plastic food stretch to hold vapor in.
Yeah the best way would’ve been to dampen the powder with the electrolyte and mix it like that, the only reason I didn’t is because I wasn’t sure if I’d be able to test the battery on the same day that I made it, and I wanted it to be as “fresh” as possible when I did.
But maybe I could keep the damp mixture in an airtight container for when I need to use it.
I have got some carbon black and zinc oxide that I will turn into zinc chloride which I will be using in my second attempt instead of graphite powder, since that’s what commercial zinc carbon cells use. I also did some more research and found the proper ratio I should use to mix the powder and electrolyte.
So hopefully when I try this again I’ll be able to make a lot more current and reach at least 1.5V.
I’m not sure how much graphene would help with this specific type of cell since it’s not rechargeable.
Awesome! Was there a reason the battery is so small? Was there a form factor you were going for?
I didn’t know how well it would work so it was more of a proof of concept. But now that I know it works I’ll add way more MnO2 next time! I’ve also ordered some Zinc Oxide that I’m going to turn into Zinc Chloride and I’ll use that next as the electrolyte, so that it’s as close to commercially available cells possible
I want to make a bunch of cells and activate some with ammonium chloride electrolyte, some with Zinc chloride, and some with both and compare the results
Great video!
Just a small food for thought/suggestions for following experiments:
- Power output might increase if you sand a bit the electrodes since physically the surface area available for reactions increases;
- To be full assure that the electrolite is well spread inside the battery (important for repeatability and reproducibility) some air might be still trapped inside the battery and be a problem. Perhaps you could edit your battery box to have at least two holes, one for the electrolyte input and one for the air output. Then you stop pumping the syringe when electrolyte is visible from the output (horizontal pumping should be enough? Or syringe input in a lower position than the output);
- Anotate the initial value and the leftover in the syringe to have the full volume of injected electrolyte (might be usefull for later statistics).
Thanks for the vid! Good work!
That’s a good idea! I will definitely be keeping track of the volume of electrolyte for the next video where I’ll be making several cells and testing different electrolytes.
The graphite powder really makes your fingerprints show up amazingly well. I hope you don't use a fingerprint unlock for any of your devices. Everyone has it now.
I’ve heard of that but I guarantee it’s way more difficult if not borderline impossible than it seems. It’s the kind of stuff I’d imagine only the CIA being able to do
cool project Idea.
Thanks!
Bro i love your video from France thankyou so mutch
☺️You’re Welcome!
If you could get the layers thinner and add a few more would that not increase the power output?
Or maybe you could try rolling it for more surface area like a typical disposable?
Yes, making the separator thinner would definitely help, i'll be doing that for my next video on these. I'll be also using better, more concentrated electrolyte and more active material in general.
Can you make those cases 10 by 12 but 3 inches deep. Also a lip on inside so when pushed together it snaps into a locked hold. This way when compressing it stays tight
I believe your glue stick might be related to the fact that you have a drop in current. The flow is likely having to go around the glue, unless it dissolved. Very cool project.
Maybe I could try making one with a very minimal amount on the sides or even no glue at all to see if it turns out better.
Thanks for watching!
Annnnndddd you're going down in history congratulations say hi to everyone on behalf of me.
Nice video. You have a proof of concept, now expand :)
That's the plan!
i see it powering a led with a joule theif connected
Yeah I might do that actually, there’s just a couple parts I need to get but I agree
can you charge it as well?
Not this specific version unfortunately, but I’ll hopefully be making a rechargeable version at some point in the near future.
I would love to see a comparison between this homemade battery, and a freshly topped off capacitor. Which one can last longer? A battery that can rival a capacitor truly meets the test of being a viable technology.
I’m pretty sure the capacitor would give a higher initial current but die out earlier, while the cell I made here would continue providing ~5mA for quite a few hours.
The performance of this cell wasn’t very good, so in a way it kinda behaved like a capacitor discharging.
But once I get the new chemicals and materials I ordered to make my next video, I think it’ll behave a lot more like a proper battery cell. (I’m quite certain actually)
I’ll also modify the design of the shell a bit to provide more compression force.
Thanks for watching!
I think your battery shell needs an air vent, to allow air out while electrolyte goes in.
it may work better to do that backwards, suck the air out of the shell with a syringe, while allowing electrolyte to fill the vacuum.
Very very interesting. Next time you could try to make a brick with distilled water for the powdery part, and try an higher concentration.
I like the idea of the real time clock
I thought of that too, but another comment make a good point that making a solid block out of it would make it more difficult for the water to absorb into it. Sort of like dropping a pill in water, it takes a while for it to dissolve.
I think for the next video on this I’ll either apply it as a paste or just do what I did in this video but with more material.
nice , getting a sub great work , looks like your video's are worth watching
Thanks! :)
I will watch anyone make simple to make at home batteries.
Do you project any benefits to this battery type or were you mostly interested in doing the experiment to see the results?
The zinc carbon battery is a pretty old and commonplace battery type, so this was an experiment to see if not only I could make one, but also to test out how PGS graphite sheets hold up as electrode materials
Can you print a orang to press between to keep it from bleeding
This is so cool, it’s like magic haha how incredibly interesting this tech is 150 years old, well atleast the specific
Didn’t they find battery like items in the pyramids ?
Yeah it is really cool. There were lots of different battery types invented around the mid 1800s to 1900s.
While I don’t know a whole lot about archeology, I’m almost certain there was no battery technology around during the time of the ancient Egyptians. For example there was a theory going around for a long time about a “Baghdad battery” which has pretty much been disproven.
Super cool
Thanks!! I’m glad you like it :)
Amazing
Thanks!! ☺️
😊
Most people learning batteries: lemon.
Then there's this guy living in 3024.
Smol idea, think you could wrap the cell terminals around the case so they'd push-fit into a receiver for use?
Why was i nervous for the reading😂😭😭
u should roll everything up into cylinder shape,.. u can get bigger reaction area,... hence maybe higher voltage and maybe more capacity,...
That could be a neat idea, I’d need to get a much thinner zinc foil. I’m just not exactly sure how I could roll it tightly enough without spilling any material.
for the next one maybe try a light anti-static fan to try and keep the powder from jumping?
Hmm interesting, clever idea though first I’ll try dampening the powder first
If some how you collabed with someone (codys lab) to refine the raw ingredients that would be awesome.
Oh I wish my channel was big enough for that to be a possibility!! Hopefully one day!
I can see these printed a lot bigger. Also always weigh the powders
Yes next time I’ll weigh them, I tried to when I made this one, but there was so little powder that it wouldn’t register on the scale. Next time I’ll be using a lot more material so I’ll be able to.
i believe there is a carbon filament, if there's a zinc one too, this could allow us to create 90% printed batteries
There's carbon infused and graphite infused filaments, as well as various metal infused filaments. It'd be technically doable, but the performance would be terrible
@@XceptionalBro absolutely, but it'd be a cool proof of concept noneheless that could be improved upon
You have enough voltage to create a joule thief LED circuit. Give that a try for kicks.
You only need 0.1 mA in a green LED to show a significant light.
Why did you use the glue? Won't that poison the cell?
No, I actually chose rubber cement specifically for that purpose. At least the kind that I have is just rubber dissolved in some kind of solvent, so all that’s left behind once dry is inert rubber!
If you meant the glue stick, it shouldn’t chemically interfere at all. (Glue sticks are made of PVA or PVP, both of which shouldn’t affect the reactions)
Graphit sheet should be rinsed in 99% alcohol
Can you make shell of clear plastic
I actually thought of doing that, maybe I could try it some time using clear filament, though it won’t be perfectly transparent.
is that rechargeable? how to do it?
Unfortunately these cells aren’t rechargeable, but I’ll most likely try and make a nickel iron rechargeable battery using some of the new chemicals I’ve ordered once I receive them.
I’m really really looking forward to it!
@@KeonsLab making capacitors in high capacity instead of cells is not easier?
Like with pre-made capacitors or to make my own? As far as I can tell it’s a lot easier to make decent capacity batteries rather than (electrolytic) capacitors.
I do admit the performance of the cell I made in this video wasn’t providing as much current as I was hoping it would.
It should’ve been 150mA at least, but I’ve ordered much better quality chemicals and will be modifying the design for my next video to hopefully try and get 250 - 850mA @ 1.5 - 1.7V. I’m really looking forward to making that video too!
We need sus 3d printed lipo batteries
No electrolysis, But still a good video
😂 were you the one who said I should use the graphite sheets for electrolysis on my last video!
@@KeonsLab yea, I said it in the short. Lol
Don’t worry, I’ll make an electrolysis video soon using the graphite sheets for copper and nickel plating different metals :)
Glue a quip to credit stamper. Then press
Cool. Can you make a battery with wire
I actually thought of doing that once, to make a wire that was also a battery, but the more I thought of how I’d actually make something like that the more it seemed like it wouldn’t turn out too well
I wonder if it could be made rechargeable if you used invert/reverse opal instead of paper/cotton; and you used nonreactive titanium or gold which wss merely plated in the reactive metal for the metals🤔 what would happen man?
I’m not too sure what invert opal is but I’d assume if the electrolyte and active materials are the same then it would most likely be quite similar
@@KeonsLab if I'm wrong teach me tho once you learn
Oh I shared a link. It might be in your spam void.
Tldr It was an scientific intro article link.
But tldr tldr: they're like semiconductors for light but because they're like the leftovers of opal if you make a negative volumetric casting of it, on the nanoscopic level it's a strangebhoneycomb sponge thing that stores electric charge good too I think but idk for sure tho
Oh very interesting I’ll definitely take a look! I will be most likely making a nickel iron rechargeable battery in the near future though, and I’m really looking forward to receiving the new chemicals I’ve ordered to do so!
I think you guys are gonna find it very interesting!
The future
Connect it to a joule thief... It should be able to run an LED
10 x 12 x 3 inches
I like the effort, but I think in my opinion you went way overboard putting together this simple battery. 😮 you need to change your electrolyte. Not the most efficient solution young man.😢Also this type of battery needs pressure squeezing Anode and Cathode together which would increase Voltage and Amperage. I was thinking you should be achieving 1.5 volts at half an Amp. You should at least ‘try the roll method. You would have something the size of a AAA battery this way. 😊thank you for sharing your knowledge and skills with me. I did subscribe to your channel mate. Cheers😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
Yeah I was expecting more current too. I think the rather underwhelming performance was due to how thick the separators were, combined with the relatively weak electrolyte and not enough active cathode material.
I’ll also try and find a way to increase the pressure between the layers for my next experiment. I’ve recently ordered much better quality chemicals/materials so that hopefully for my next video on these the results end up being a lot closer to commercially made cells.
I’m hoping that the new cells will be able to provide at least 250 - 850mA and have voltages of 1.5 to 1.7V.
I do not think that word means what you think it means...
Why do you sound like Vitalik Buterin?
I have no idea, but people keep saying I do lol
@@KeonsLab I think you're smarter and certainly more morally good than he is, for what it's worth!
_please_ look up the meaning of "perfectly"!
Ok :)
Why is everything "perfect"? No thats not a perfect circle and if its a bit loose, its not a perfect fit....
I didn’t mean it literally, more like it perfectly lined up with how I imagined it would
Bad clickbait!
This is good content. Thank you.
You’re welcome!
Have you played with stainless steel/aluminum any? I managed to get a volt (i didnt measure the amps) from an improvised battery right after they declassified the tech. Was fun.
Steel/Aluminium? The steel probably wouldn’t give too good of a result, but aluminium actually works surprisingly well!
About 3 years ago, I made a cell using aluminium, potassium aluminium sulphate, copper, copper sulphate, and graphite.
It went up to like 1.9V and with two I could light 3 LED’s super brightly.
I might revisit it in a video
A standard ice tray with 1 1/2"×1 1/2" stainless plates smaller than 1/16" thick wrapped with (I forget the gauge) in each cup wire in Series put off 1.2-1.3 volts using saltwater as an electrolyte.
I think the common name is aluminum air battery.
Sorry wrapped in aluminum wire
Yeah that was most likely an aluminium air battery you made! It even works with magnesium!
Just a tip: just measure the voltage of the battery while having it loaded with the resistor
Yeah it would have been better like that