I bought mine with a pod filter and just had to figure out how to calibrate it because that’s what made the last guy give up on it 😅 thank you for this
It's really not difficult. Make sure everything is clean, and step the jets up in size slightly. Keep in mind, it will never run perfectly. A carb requires a specific air consistency that only the stock airbox will deliver. The pod filter will never deliver a consistent airflow in all conditions.
Thank you so much for putting this on UA-cam, I am doing the same thing on my wifes Rebel, and it works,runs really good,so thank you so much for putting this on . 5 star⭐️. Dave🤘
You're welcome. I think this solution is practical and looks good. Another alternative method could be to run a hose off the crankcase breather port and put a small pod filter on the end of it somewhere. This would allow you avoid using the PVC and just put the primary pod filter directly onto the carburetor. I've seen some builds where they just put a small pod filter directly onto the crankcase breather port, but this isn't ideal because the filter would get soaked with oil.
@@uploadmeful yes l did, 40/118 after l fixed no compression on the right side, no compression was from a sticky lifter so I replaced all the lifters to new ones, and put in new piston rings ,a lot more work than I thought, but it’s all done now,runs great 🤘
I jetted my rebel 250 but I can’t remember what size jets I used, been too many years ago. I feel like I went up 2 sizes on the main and 1 on the idle jet, If you wanted to be safe and not order a bunch of different ones I would say 1 size up will run fine and give it a little more fuel to match the more air it’s getting now. Cant wait for more videos 👍
Ill probably mess with it once everything is said and done. I actually took this out for a longer extended ride and once it was fully warmed up it ran just fine. So other than startup, I'm not sure if theres an issue.
Without a dyno Id say the bike feels peppier once you get it dialed in. Main benefit was actually cost. It was cheaper to get a new dual carb + manifold then a new single carb.
I didnt want something else to clean... On the final version of the intake, I removed the puke tube all together and just routed a tube betweem the PVC fitting and the crankcase port. This way "excess" oil drains back into the crankcase.
Such a great build so far. Looking forward to seeing its progression. Clever engineering with the airbox fix. Currently looking on FB marketplace for used Rebels . Hahaha
Super helpful! I am thinking about ditching the air box as well since I am rebuilding my carb. Have you had a chance to roll this (or anything with this intake set up) in the rain yet?
Hey man, I know I’m late to the party here but was hoping you might have an answer. I bought all the identical parts for this but can’t get the rubber coupling onto the carb opening. I can just squeeze it around, but then the frame gets in the way when trying to push it in as far as it can go. Where did you buy your materials from? I may just need a thinner coupling
Hey man so I actually did the same air box removal as you. I got the pvc n all the good stuff. My question is after the swap did you feel the bike wanting to stall after 50 mph ? Maybe I got to small of n intake and the fuel to air ratio is messed up. Could you please let me know what you think, thank you.
For sure it needs larger jets to run right. The pod filter lets in more air than the original box, therefore the fuel ratio is definitely too lean (getting too much air). At 50 it's probably inhaling more air than at 30, so i would imagine the ratio is probably at its worst at that speed. You need to increase the fuel going in at at hard throttle, so I would start by trying a larger main jet. Mine runs alright once its warmed up, but I'm not riding at a sustained 50 mph. I'm going to experiment with jets eventually, but right now I'm focusing on finishing the build.
My Rebel 250 was running fine until I cleaned carb and cut 4” off of exhaust pipe for noise. Recleaned carb three times and still happening. I used carb cleaner dip overnight, carb cleaner spray, and air compressor to blow. Followed steps from a UA-camr which matched reversing my removal steps. Now bike starts and idles but dies when rev it slowly, doesn’t die when you rev it fast like pumping it. Also, dies right away when shift into gear (even after I cut the kick stand switch wires and have kick stand up). Please help!
@@FridaysTheBomb Yes, kit arrived yesterday and I rebuilt it again. Carb was sitting in Chem Dip for 48 hours. Cleaned it with carb cleaner spray, used a small wire to clean small jets just in case, and then used a air compressor to blow all holes. Didn’t notice any clog even using the light test method. I replaced all parts that were identical with kit components (gasket, washer, o ring, main jet with needle holder, etc) Nothing has changed. Starts east, idles fine, but dies when shift to first or second gear as if switch is turned off (even after I cut the kick stand switch wires to bypass), and dies when you give it slow throttle rev (this doesn’t happen when you pump that throttle fast, sounds normal and loud when I do that)
I really don't know... sounds like two seperate issues to me though. My bike always bogged a bit at partial throttle until it was warmed up. Not sure how long your bike is running when it happens to you though. Bike dying in first is harder to troubleshoot, but If it didn't to that before, I would think its related to the wires that were cut.
@@FridaysTheBomb You we’re right, two separate issues. Thanks figured out the shift issue, switch went bad about the same time I took carb out. After carb was cleaned and reinstalled, throttle issue emerged with shift issue about same time. I cut the kick stand switch wires after that to bypass, but didn’t know I was supposed to splice and connect the ends of the two wires I cut. Found that out today and once it connected them bypass was successful hence it doesn’t due anymore when I shift. Now I’m left with one issue (dying when you feed it slow throttle….pumping throtttle revs it loud and fine, but bogs and dies down and on slow throttle feed). Bike starts and idles fine though.
I have a mostly stock 2012 Rebel. I just adjusted the valves, and I removed the tank to give me more room. There is a hose on the tank vent, which is underneath the tank. When I went to put the tank back, the end of the hose that attaches to the fitting on the bottom of the tank wouldn't quite reach. So I pulled on it a bit, and pulled it out of the frame. I discovered that it was not one long hose like I thought it was, but actually 2 hoses, with a T fitting in the middle. In this diagram, it is part #13 (joint, air filter) 2009 Honda CMX250C A FUEL TANK | Cheap Cycle Parts I could not find any place where this fitting is supposed to go. It is not shown in the manual. Just wondering if anyone might know where it goes.
I bought mine with a pod filter and just had to figure out how to calibrate it because that’s what made the last guy give up on it 😅 thank you for this
It's really not difficult. Make sure everything is clean, and step the jets up in size slightly.
Keep in mind, it will never run perfectly. A carb requires a specific air consistency that only the stock airbox will deliver. The pod filter will never deliver a consistent airflow in all conditions.
I applaud you for retaining EGR functionality lol most people just throw two filters on the bike. Congrats on the ingenuity!
Thank you so much for putting this on UA-cam, I am doing the same thing on my wifes Rebel, and it works,runs really good,so thank you so much for putting this on . 5 star⭐️. Dave🤘
You're welcome. I think this solution is practical and looks good. Another alternative method could be to run a hose off the crankcase breather port and put a small pod filter on the end of it somewhere. This would allow you avoid using the PVC and just put the primary pod filter directly onto the carburetor. I've seen some builds where they just put a small pod filter directly onto the crankcase breather port, but this isn't ideal because the filter would get soaked with oil.
Did you change jet? If so what jets?
@@uploadmeful yes l did, 40/118 after l fixed no compression on the right side, no compression was from a sticky lifter so I replaced all the lifters to new ones, and put in new piston rings ,a lot more work than I thought, but it’s all done now,runs great 🤘
I’ve got a 2005 Nighthawk CB250 that I’m going to do this project with. Amazing work! Thanks for the awesome build videos.
Glad you like it
I jetted my rebel 250 but I can’t remember what size jets I used, been too many years ago. I feel like I went up 2 sizes on the main and 1 on the idle jet, If you wanted to be safe and not order a bunch of different ones I would say 1 size up will run fine and give it a little more fuel to match the more air it’s getting now. Cant wait for more videos 👍
Ill probably mess with it once everything is said and done. I actually took this out for a longer extended ride and once it was fully warmed up it ran just fine. So other than startup, I'm not sure if theres an issue.
Oh hell yeah. Excited for this series. Cheers from the east coast
Just got a frame up 85 to do. This is a great idea. Thank you. Doing on mine for sure 👍
lookin good so far. made me smile when i saw the ol' XR in the garage! i put mine away for the season got 13k on it so far.
Thanks for these videos! I copied your intake design to pair with a dual carb for mine.
Dual carb?!? What's the benefit?
Without a dyno Id say the bike feels peppier once you get it dialed in. Main benefit was actually cost. It was cheaper to get a new dual carb + manifold then a new single carb.
I'm really excited for this series
you can buy a small crankcase breather pod filter (K&N or UNI types). be sure to clean and oil it every so often.
I didnt want something else to clean... On the final version of the intake, I removed the puke tube all together and just routed a tube betweem the PVC fitting and the crankcase port. This way "excess" oil drains back into the crankcase.
Such a great build so far. Looking forward to seeing its progression. Clever engineering with the airbox fix. Currently looking on FB marketplace for used Rebels . Hahaha
Super helpful! I am thinking about ditching the air box as well since I am rebuilding my carb. Have you had a chance to roll this (or anything with this intake set up) in the rain yet?
Its not on the road yet, but no, I dont plan on running it in the rain with the intake this exposed.
Hey man, I know I’m late to the party here but was hoping you might have an answer. I bought all the identical parts for this but can’t get the rubber coupling onto the carb opening. I can just squeeze it around, but then the frame gets in the way when trying to push it in as far as it can go. Where did you buy your materials from? I may just need a thinner coupling
You mean your rubber coupling is too thick? I got this from home depot. The plumbing department I believe.
Cool, cool, cool...reminds me of my XL250
Hey man so I actually did the same air box removal as you. I got the pvc n all the good stuff. My question is after the swap did you feel the bike wanting to stall after 50 mph ? Maybe I got to small of n intake and the fuel to air ratio is messed up. Could you please let me know what you think, thank you.
For sure it needs larger jets to run right. The pod filter lets in more air than the original box, therefore the fuel ratio is definitely too lean (getting too much air). At 50 it's probably inhaling more air than at 30, so i would imagine the ratio is probably at its worst at that speed. You need to increase the fuel going in at at hard throttle, so I would start by trying a larger main jet.
Mine runs alright once its warmed up, but I'm not riding at a sustained 50 mph. I'm going to experiment with jets eventually, but right now I'm focusing on finishing the build.
A jet kit for this pod filter setup is now available in my ebay store.
My Rebel 250 was running fine until I cleaned carb and cut 4” off of exhaust pipe for noise. Recleaned carb three times and still happening. I used carb cleaner dip overnight, carb cleaner spray, and air compressor to blow. Followed steps from a UA-camr which matched reversing my removal steps. Now bike starts and idles but dies when rev it slowly, doesn’t die when you rev it fast like pumping it. Also, dies right away when shift into gear (even after I cut the kick stand switch wires and have kick stand up). Please help!
Did you correct the leaking mixture screw?
@@FridaysTheBomb Yes, kit arrived yesterday and I rebuilt it again. Carb was sitting in Chem Dip for 48 hours. Cleaned it with carb cleaner spray, used a small wire to clean small jets just in case, and then used a air compressor to blow all holes. Didn’t notice any clog even using the light test method. I replaced all parts that were identical with kit components (gasket, washer, o ring, main jet with needle holder, etc) Nothing has changed. Starts east, idles fine, but dies when shift to first or second gear as if switch is turned off (even after I cut the kick stand switch wires to bypass), and dies when you give it slow throttle rev (this doesn’t happen when you pump that throttle fast, sounds normal and loud when I do that)
I really don't know... sounds like two seperate issues to me though. My bike always bogged a bit at partial throttle until it was warmed up. Not sure how long your bike is running when it happens to you though. Bike dying in first is harder to troubleshoot, but If it didn't to that before, I would think its related to the wires that were cut.
@@FridaysTheBomb You we’re right, two separate issues. Thanks figured out the shift issue, switch went bad about the same time I took carb out. After carb was cleaned and reinstalled, throttle issue emerged with shift issue about same time. I cut the kick stand switch wires after that to bypass, but didn’t know I was supposed to splice and connect the ends of the two wires I cut. Found that out today and once it connected them bypass was successful hence it doesn’t due anymore when I shift. Now I’m left with one issue (dying when you feed it slow throttle….pumping throtttle revs it loud and fine, but bogs and dies down and on slow throttle feed). Bike starts and idles fine though.
So does the bogging issue still happen after it's been idling for at least 5 minutes? What size jets are in it?
Tuning mines up
I have a mostly stock 2012 Rebel. I just adjusted the valves, and I removed the tank to give me more room. There is a hose on the tank vent, which is underneath the tank. When I went to put the tank back, the end of the hose that attaches to the fitting on the bottom of the tank wouldn't quite reach. So I pulled on it a bit, and pulled it out of the frame. I discovered that it was not one long hose like I thought it was, but actually 2 hoses, with a T fitting in the middle. In this diagram, it is part #13 (joint, air filter) 2009 Honda CMX250C A FUEL TANK | Cheap Cycle Parts I could not find any place where this fitting is supposed to go. It is not shown in the manual. Just wondering if anyone might know where it goes.
1997 rebel 250 i found similar hose with no visible connections, has been ripped out and still riding..
Where did you get the choke for the carb? I have looked and can not find one
Ebay. Search Keihin Plunger Choke. It must be for "Keihin" carburetors.
Can you put the link of the UNI filter you got in the description or here please! 🙏
Do you know where this bike ended up? Would love to give it a great home.
It is somewhere in the Phoenix area. I saw it on Craigslist last year, so I know it's been sold since I sold it.
hell yeah
Nice
Time for a proper vise lol
Heheheh
what size filter is that
ID is 2 inches
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