I recently made a video where I live cycled the rotary switch on this meter. It has been the best of the meters I have looked at so far, by a wide margin.
I have the 17b+ and I notice the temperature is a way off, time to buy the 869s, thanks so much so these videos, so informative and helpful when on the market to buy a good rubust meter,
Joe, I work on motorbikes. Was looking for a replacement to my old 200$ Kawasaki (analog) and finally opted for Fluke's 15B+, only (!) $135can delivered. I have other cheap/good enough analogs for alternator AC, just couldn't resist Fluke Temptation... 20A DC would be better, but I have an old -20 to +20 SW britbike one for that, works great for most bikes and has been indestructible. I don't volluntarily destroy my testers, so expect the Fluke to last to the end of times ! -well, I'm already looking for spare fuses....
I've not looked at the 15B+. Recently I started looking at a few automotive meters. These can be seen in the more recent videos. The idea of making these tests public and free of charge is to give viewers some idea how different meters hold up without damaging their own equipment. Enjoy your new meter.
+Donald D'Egidio That's a real good price. I liked the meter overall. It seems very mechanically solid and the front end was electrically very robust. I felt the cost was too high when I bought mine. At $110, I think it's a good buy. Let me know what you think of it once you've had a chance to use it for a while.
Strange that a distributor would send you a used one. Are you sure you did not spike the input when you tried it out? Say for example, you set a power supply to current limit at 10mA and have the output voltage set to 5V. You connect the meter to the output expecting to read 10mA, not knowing there was some big bulk cap in the output. Instant blown fuse...
No complaints if you know what you've bought. Built like a Fluke. As an industrial electrician/electrical maintenance technician I've been using Flukes for the past decade, usually lower end stuff (114, 115, 117) and have complete faith in them. This is my personal DMM and the price was a big part of me buying it. I usually measure three phase voltages (400V), 0-20mA current sources, 24V command voltages, resistance (el. motor windings, temp. probes, winding to gnd, electro magnetic switch spools), start caps capacitance, temperature of the el. motor case, mA to gnd leakage. I'm sure I forgot something, but it didn't fail. There are a minor niggles but not worth mentioning (slow-ish auto range, slow buzzer...) and I wouldn't want to carry it outside in the rain or the snow but it wasn't built for it either. Would like to upgrade to something like a 28-II but $$$. Sorry for the incorrect technical English it's not my first language. Cheers.
I have Fluke 289, 87V I will add 17b+ I realy like form factor of it. For basic stuff is great multimeter. I heard something about weak battery contacts on 17b + , can sombody confirm or it was just a “fluke” 🤓?
The battery contact is really bad on 17B+. Have to add a folding paper pad for each battery cell. All my school's 17B+ have this problem. The switch feels cheap compared to 117 too.
Sorry but I do not make recommendations, or seldom do. I would download the manuals for both and compare them with your requirements. Maybe there is an even better fit for you beyond these two.
I know its 2 years to the week later. I got the 17b+ for £60 so about $68-$70 now in the UK
I recently made a video where I live cycled the rotary switch on this meter. It has been the best of the meters I have looked at so far, by a wide margin.
I have the 17b+ and I notice the temperature is a way off, time to buy the 869s, thanks so much so these videos, so informative and helpful when on the market to buy a good rubust meter,
You may be able to trim it if you have an reference source.
I am still keeping my Fluke 76 that I bought in the mid 90s. Besides a few scratches it's as good as new.
Joe,
I work on motorbikes. Was looking for a replacement to my old 200$ Kawasaki (analog) and finally opted for Fluke's 15B+, only (!) $135can delivered. I have other
cheap/good enough analogs for alternator AC, just couldn't resist Fluke Temptation...
20A DC would be better, but I have an old -20 to +20 SW britbike one for that, works
great for most bikes and has been indestructible.
I don't volluntarily destroy my testers, so expect the Fluke to last to the end of times !
-well, I'm already looking for spare fuses....
I've not looked at the 15B+. Recently I started looking at a few automotive meters. These can be seen in the more recent videos. The idea of making these tests public and free of charge is to give viewers some idea how different meters hold up without damaging their own equipment. Enjoy your new meter.
Joe,
I was able to get this meter at a $110 shipped, but I don't see that ad anymore. A set of smd tweezer test leads were thrown in on the deal.
+Donald D'Egidio That's a real good price. I liked the meter overall. It seems very mechanically solid and the front end was electrically very robust. I felt the cost was too high when I bought mine. At $110, I think it's a good buy. Let me know what you think of it once you've had a chance to use it for a while.
+joe smith What did you pay for it? I paid 150 with themal leads and AC transducer shipped. (so 128 without shipping, 100 without the AC transducer)
+LoverOfPhotograph When I made the video, they sold for $156. I mentioned this during the intro.
Received the meter on Friday. The ma and ua did not work. The fuse was already blown. :-(
Strange that a distributor would send you a used one. Are you sure you did not spike the input when you tried it out? Say for example, you set a power supply to current limit at 10mA and have the output voltage set to 5V. You connect the meter to the output expecting to read 10mA, not knowing there was some big bulk cap in the output. Instant blown fuse...
Great Fluke multimeter collection, Joe...
Thanks. It's grown a bit since this video was made.
Got one for a little less then 120USD shipped. So far so good.
After you've had it a while, post what you think of it.
No complaints if you know what you've bought. Built like a Fluke. As an industrial electrician/electrical maintenance technician I've been using Flukes for the past decade, usually lower end stuff (114, 115, 117) and have complete faith in them. This is my personal DMM and the price was a big part of me buying it.
I usually measure three phase voltages (400V), 0-20mA current sources, 24V command voltages, resistance (el. motor windings, temp. probes, winding to gnd, electro magnetic switch spools), start caps capacitance, temperature of the el. motor case, mA to gnd leakage.
I'm sure I forgot something, but it didn't fail. There are a minor niggles but not worth mentioning (slow-ish auto range, slow buzzer...) and I wouldn't want to carry it outside in the rain or the snow but it wasn't built for it either. Would like to upgrade to something like a 28-II but $$$.
Sorry for the incorrect technical English it's not my first language. Cheers.
My 17b + capacitor is broken. It should be that. Can you give me some advice?
Good video joe! That was 3 years ago I just want to ask if it is still working until now.
Yes
ua-cam.com/video/x_L6Z8BAXFQ/v-deo.html
I have Fluke 289, 87V I will add 17b+ I realy like form factor of it. For basic stuff is great multimeter.
I heard something about weak battery contacts on 17b + , can sombody confirm or it was just a “fluke” 🤓?
The battery contact is really bad on 17B+. Have to add a folding paper pad for each battery cell. All my school's 17B+ have this problem. The switch feels cheap compared to 117 too.
With hioki dt4256 which is Best?
Sorry but I do not make recommendations, or seldom do. I would download the manuals for both and compare them with your requirements. Maybe there is an even better fit for you beyond these two.
Fluke 87 v best for me
Yep purchased $134 ebag 17b wanted toughness an generic Chinese perfume bag lol. thanks for the bench work Joe
👍👍