I must say in addition to your expertise, I find your personality and voice to be quite warm and charming. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
For anyone wondering why you always crack the filler bolt before the drain it's to ensure you don't drain all the fluid then strip the filler or break it having no way to refill the gearbox.
I saw a trick where someone filled a plastic bag with gear oil and shoved the whole thing back into the drain hole and put the bolt back. Then the bag just deteriorates. Probably not ideal but better than nothing. That being said: Always crack the fill bolt first.
I made that mistake once, which is why I now own a 3/4” easy out! But seriously, what was I going to do, NOT change the fluid because of a stripped fill plug? No, it had to come out, either the easy way or the easy out way.
@@CarlosRodriguez-hb3vq If you start with the fill plug and it laughs in your face, you can let penetrant oil have its way for a while before you call it quits. Maybe check it every week or so....
ALL fluids need to be changed regularly. Often, service intervals are not listed in the owners manual, so you have to give it your best guess. Every 2 years or so, I have my transaxle fluid changed, and also, have the brake system flushed, as well as the oil changes.(which I do every 5,000 miles) If your car uses power steering fluid, that too, needs to be changed every so often. I also have my cooling system flushed and changed every couple of years, as well. My '06 Prius has 280,000 miles on it, and it still runs like new. I'm still on the original water pump, catalytic converter, and main battery. I haven't even had to replace the oxygen sensor yet, because the low oil consumption of my engine hasn't fouled it yet. When ever I acquire another used vehicle, I change all fluids, regardless of what I've been told. Even if it turns out that it had been serviced recently, it never hurts to flush everything out again, so all the fluids are as clean as when the car was new.
That's what I did: trans drain and refill, Engine coolant, inverter coolant, oil change, all new brakes and rotors, spark plugs and coils and everything was done with OEM parts with the exception of the NGK iridium laser plugs and the coils. Also cleaned the MAF sensor, but I think I'll just get a new MAF just to be sure (if you look at the wells NGK channel they did a microscopic look at a MAF sensor cleaned with MAF spray and found it sloughs off the clear coat over the resistor wire).
My 14 Corolla has the "old" 4 speed auto but I was able to drop the pan and change the filter too. I then disconnected the return line from the radiator right before it went back into the transmission, attached a hose, and ran it into a 5 gallon bucket. I filled the pan with new fluid then had my wife start the car and I kept adding new fluid till the almost 7 quarts was replaced. I did this at 71,000 miles and the fluid was not as dirty as this, but I'm glad I did it. I used Amsoil's signature series fluid. Now at almost 81,000 miles, it still runs like new. I plan doing it again at 140,000.
That's the correct procedure that almost no one does. I have someone shift through the gears as it's pumping the old shit out. I use lubegard with cheap fluid on high miles cars, too. Shitmart HM dexron III works amazing on nissans.
My 2005 Gen 2 had about 255K on it last week when I did 2nd Trans Oil Change. It was done at about 125K before so now its on this 3rd fresh batch. 1. Factory File, 2. 125K Fill, 3. 255K fill. It was fairly dark but not alarmingly so. I just observed this is normal and did the change. I did use the WS spec but not from the dealer. I got a 4 quart bottle from Walmart for $17. Its called MaxLife and is for Toyota with WS spec. Works fine, drove it to LA to Phoenix and return, now issues.
Maxlife is what I'm using as well. Of course, it ain't $17 these days, it's $25 now but much more easily accessible being that they have it at every Walmart, Autozone, Advance, Oreilly's, etc. My '10 Prius is a delivery vehicle, so I'll probably do the fluids a lot more often. I'll be doing the engine oil monthly until I'm happy with how it's coming out, the condition of the oil filter I removed on the initial change after purchase hurt my soul. I suspect they were changing the oil and leaving the filter for quite some time, housing was a real mf'er to remove, too.
Bought my 2012 at 80k miles. Didn't change the transmission fluid until around 245k. Wasn't intentionally ignoring it, just wasn't mechanically inclined for a while. What a difference in the speed and acceleration. Luckily, no broken teeth, bits and no burnt smell. Color was reddish brown but not too bad. Super glad I changed it. Like a new car! Thanks!
I use Redline D6 ATF and have done this to my 06 prius needing WS. the first time it was kinda red with the previous fluid at 135k over 3 years ago -it looked like it was changed by the other owner- I did it again at 165K this past summer and the Redline was still bright red and clean. . Good stuff
I would never use WS again. I have D6 in all 3 of my Prii. WS is only a Group 2 mineral oil. D6 is a Group 4/5 real synthetic. In my 2012 V there is less regen noise.
Its not really getting mad at not cracking the filler plug first its just a good tip. As if your standard DIY person just drains all the oil out to find out the fill plug is stuck then they are in for a fun time. Big thumbs up on addressing it
My Toyota Tacoma calls for Toyota w .s. at fluid . I bought it in 2007 with 20k miles and changed the fluid with valvoline dexron 6 full synthetic transmission fluid and I changed it every 20k miles and I just sold my 2004 Tacoma with 350k miles on it and it runs great and tows my trailer with no problem . I would buy the valvoline DeX 6 from Walmart for $18 dollars in a 1 gallon bucket . Full synthetic /great products and it kept my truck going TOYOTA STRONG.
Peter - just use the same yellow jug that you have the fluid in. I keep clean ones always ready. Mark it with a sharpy or a piece of tape. Drain the bad fluid - leave it draining for several minutes so the remaining 'bad' fluid is super negligible. Refill to the sharpy mark. So easy. Identical containers works well too.
On my 2015 camry @134k miles, transmission had a noise, at very cold winter in Michigan, transmission will not engage to gears. I drained and filled twice with Valvoline maxlife, now it works great.
I have meet a 1996 v6 camry owner, I was curious how many miles he has, 265k. His neglected transmission stopped working a while ago, after his mechanical replaced fluid, the transmission works normally. Toyota transmission from 90s are extremely reliable.
@@bauuau18 Yup, car companies don't own oil companies. The only reputable engine manufacturer is Stihl, that I know of. At least they print on their 2 stroke that it's Castrol. And it's not great oil, but at least Stihl is honest about what they're selling you. All engine manufacturers either buy the cheapest oil they can get, bottle it and sell it for the highest margin. Or, they contract it out to the highest bidder. Contrary to what they say, they really don't care about your car once you drive it away.
I believe Toyota insist it is a 'life-time oil' for environmental reasons only. This apparently saved them several millions .... If I ever buy a Hybrid Toyota new - I would change the trans fluid at no more than 20 or 30 000 miles, to get rid of any swarf or wear particles from the running-in process. Then again at 60 000 and so on... I also stick a big round neodymium magnet on the outside of the drain plug too.
Great video. I just do a drain and fill (1x) every 50k with Toyota Type-IV OEM fluid. Gotta love the drain bolt on the pan (also a 10mm allen). My 2006 Matrix with 140k mi. runs perfect. I use two labelled identical Mobil-1 5qt containers. One gets old dirty fluid and the other get new fluid filled until level matches. Make sure level is correct before doing fluid change-it should be in "sealed" units.
Thats not enough.. Honestly. Not busting your balls. Just trying to help. Think about the volume of the 13 qts...(my Tacoma) Then a drain of 3.2qts. . Still have 10qts of dirty fluid . Use valvoline max ATF , its compatible with Toyotas even the World Standard fluid and it lasts longer(synthetic) its 17.98 @ Walmart for a gallon jug. buy 2 . Do one drain and fill , drive for a couple hundred , then do another one.... I do this every 20 k.... Ocd.
@@lane4574 I know. I should due it 2x. The ATF volume for a dry fill is 7.7qt. and I get about 3.25 on a single drain, so about %50 fresh. Also, the drained fluid is still in pretty good shape. If it was really dirty, I would do 2-3x. Thanks for your feedback.
@@MarzNet256 No prob, wow 7.7 , my Tacoma holds almost double. Thats why I said that in the prior comment. My bad. That ATF I talked about , Ive been using it for a while now ,almost 4yrs. No problems. I also throw Lucas Tran fix in the mix , Toyota forums had many saying use it for PM , ....Wouldn't have used it unless I heard it more than 20x. Peace
MarzNet256 I think the Toyota T-IV and WS are totally different fluids. Unless you used a universal fluid such as amsoil or BG which meets the T-IV and WS requirements the Toyota T-IV is the wrong fluid for the Prius CVT transmission. Toyota WS would be the correct specifications.
Thanks for humoring me on that fill plug! BTW, for anyone (justifiably) irritated with Toyota’s pricing on such a low quality (albeit very specifically designed) transmission fluid, Idemitsu sells the same spec under the name TLS-LV, and it can be had at your local NAPA dealer during their monthly sales for as little as $5.25/qt.
heyitschino they’re both made in America so it wouldn’t surprise me. The annual production requirements for WS-spec fluid have to be pretty low. BeckArnley makes a WS spec fluid for Europe. Maybe others are out there, too?
@@koomo801 The Prius' electronic CVT (Power Split Device) consists of a planetary gear set, two electric motors, reduction gear and differential gears, and included bearings. Its ATF is for lubricating and cooling purposes only... Dexron-VI is an excellent option, and is available in superior fully synthetic formulas. I've replaced it twice in a Lexus CT-200h already. Super Tech Dexron-VI (Warren Oil) www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-Full-Synthetic-Automatic-Transmission-Fluid-1-Quart/52626198 www.warrenoil.com/MSDS-Spec/PDS/Warren/PDS%20-%20Warren%20Dexron%20VI%20ATF.pdf www.idemitsulubricants.com/product/atf-type-tls-lv
My sister has owned her 2014 Corolla S for a year and a half now. It has just reached 100,000 Kilometers. It has the CvT transmission and I don't know if the previous owner ever changed the fluid. It has the "lifetime fluid" which is the craziest thing I have ever heard. Planned obsolescence is the only reason I suspect. I will be sure to tell her to have it changed soon!
In the UK I requested Toyota dealership to change my Prius transmission fluid with the standard service and guess what they charged me but didn’t change trans fluid as I caught them on camera. Well Done UK Toyota Dealership it’s sound like you guys don’t want hybrid cars to last long.
Wow which toyota dealer was this? I'm in South Wales and don't trust dealerships to do as they should. My wife thinks I'm paranoid but your experience doesn't surprise me.
Just did mine yesterday, I had 2.5 liters ( around 2.3 quarters) in my 2012 prius c, 151k miles. I already changed the fluid- for the cooling system ( hybrid and engine). Oil changes every 5k miles with full synthetic and original oil FILTERS + Militec. Next step will be spark plugs and brake fluid. Everything is gonna be toyota, it's really cheap. And I'm doing it by myself at parking lot 🙂 I think that these cars last almost forever with certain care.
@@JO3haNsum my comment was about 1 year ago, so, today I'm using everything from liqui moly... It has a good quality and more affordable than the Toyota or OEM parts... Pre oil change: * Liqui moly engine flush $18 ( Amazon or eBay) Pos oil change: Liqui moly ceratech ( every 30 k miles ) $ 22 ( Amazon or eBay)
just changed in mine 2008 Prius 2nd gen 75k miles. was same black. now after def. less movement when engine starts in P , less noise when breaking or in B. I think regenerative breaking wear the oil more than in other auto gearboxes.
Yes, changing the transmission fluid is so important. Toyota is part of the problem, though--for many of their vehicles, they claim that the transmission fluid never needs to be changed. But we both know that there is no such thing as "lifetime" transmission fluid, all fluids break down over time...and so do transmissions if the fluid is not changed
It doesnt break down it only gets dirty. It does not act as a lubricant only hydrolic fluid. Hydrolic systems must be very clean and tight the abrasive contaminants destroy the sytem and cause the transmission to fail.
@@brainwashingdetergent4128 It breaks down--this is evident by discoloration and a burned smell. If tested, even if all of the metal particles were strained out, it would no longer have the same properties as new fluid. But it is true that metal fragments also destroy transmissions. In either event, it still needs to be changed at regular intervals
@@justsumguy2u not really boss the fluid is not a lubricant only a hydrolic fluid so if it broke down hyrdrolic pressures would not be affected it would still work fine. If it is dirty than your transmission is already failing. It should be sealed tight there is no reason it should ever get dirty so if you find that it is your transmission has bad seals and needs rebuilt.
@@brainwashingdetergent4128 In the Toyota Hybrid Transaxle the fluid is only a lubricant, not a hydraulic fluid. The transaxle is basically a set of differential gears with a pair of motor-generators connected in.
There is no “flush” for a Prius transmission as there is no torque converter or pressure valves. It’s a gearbox and electric motor windings. That’s it. So replace only. Changing at 60k Miles is a cheap and good preventive maintenance though.
@@JamesCaseEndercase In the Toyota hybrid transaxle the fluid is completely drained. There is no place for it to hide - it is never pumped out of the transmission and there is no torque converter to hold any. In most respects the hybrid transaxle is like a classic differential housing without any shims.
Actually , this one time I tried to loosen the bolt on the front diff on my Tacoma , it was fkn so stuck..So I went into town to ask a few garages if they could loosen it. Most of the mechanics at several different places , just pointed to a impact wrench and let me go to work. From Snap on , Klutch , nitro cat , IR. nothing worked. I was tripping out a little . So I came up with an idea of putting a jack under the wrenches handle and started pumping, it almost lifted my truck off the ground, before it finally made a loud pop. It finally was loose and I got to change my fluid......I put anti-seize on the threads, and have changed it several times since then , with no issues of corrosion weld. So the point of this story is that I would have been screwed , if I drained it first. At least for a few hours , until I figured it out. I ended up buying a I R 2235TIMAX with 1350 ft. lbs. of Torque , the trick is give it a high flow inlet and high flow outlet from the tank too......So now you wont lose air pressure with 100 ft of hose. Well not as much. Hope this helped someone out ...Peace.
The jack trick is a really good one. I've heard of people doing this to loosen stuck lug nuts before changing a wheel. You can also get a long piece of pipe (like 3+ feet) and slide it over the end of wrench. This will create great mechanical advantage.
@@MarzNet256 I would of used a breaker/Cheater bar if I could , room didnt allow for it...I worked in the oil fields , we used 60 inch Ridgid pipe wrenches and 8 ft breaker bar to thread 6 inch iron pipe on site , on a side of a mountain...Been around a little bit.
@Sam S The hose could be 4 inches , but its no good with a small 1/4 inch coupler hole. I've been around a little. From operating boom trucks , 500 ton die cutting presses , offshore platforms etc. etc. Thanks for the obvious. lol. And my air gets used almost every day....In agreeance with the, use it or lose it Motto. for most things. Did you know that your supposed to engage your 4 wheel drive for 10 miles a month? To keep it lubricated and functioning correctly for preventative maint.??
@Sam S I call bullshit on them too....Left rear goes to right front , and right rear goes to left front , and right front goes to left rear etc. you get the pic....Thats some shady crap. I don't usually complain about crap to the higher ups , unless its something like ,straight up lying to my face and costing me money in the long run....But in this case , Id get someones ass chewed enough to look like hamburger....Thats being malicious towards you, not acceptable anytime....They probably do it all the time to people and it needs to be addressed most definitely. I guess a guy has to show up in greasy overalls, wrench hanging out your back pocket and a mac truck hat on , , just to be taken seriously with them....
This works 100% where a short handle 3 lb sledgehammer can be used: Put counterclockwise pressure on the wrench and hit the wrench end with a 3 lb sledgehammer lightly. Increase the hitting force while maintaining pressure on the wrench until the bolt loosens. This method also works with 20-year-old water heaters to remove stuck nipples.
My son changed hybrid transaxle fluid on a 2002 Prius at 209K miles. It looked pretty murky (gray) but the transaxle never complained. Our 2014 maintenance schedule calls for inspecting the transaxle fluid at 30K miles, or replacing it in severe service at 60K mile intervals. It does not have a replacement schedule for normal service.
If I'm getting the car into position to "inspect" the fluid, I'm just changing that shit. The hard part is getting the car in the air and level, lol. Not hard to pop out a couple plugs, then refill it.
I had my Lexus dealer tell me it doesn’t need to be done. We have a 2013 RX 350 AWD with only 50,000 KM. I know it’s overkill changing it, but it’s our vehicle, just take our money and change it
Thank u,i have 2013 lexus rx 350 bought used at 69k miles ,i have the carfax but theres no record that it was changed the trans oil.now im decided the change it The thing is i dont know how many quarts of trans oil i need to buy Im estimating i need to buy 5 quarts
The Tundra is a whole different ball game. It has a conventional transmission (automatic, I assume, in your case) and depends heavily on regular fluid changes.
... "Max-Life" Full-Synthetic Transmission Fluid by Valvoline meets Toyota's "World Standard" (WS) Specifications ... It is the only alternative that I have found, and that I regularly use in my 2010-Corolla ... $18.00 per gallon at Walmart ... $28.00 per gallon at Amazon ... Works Great, and Saves Me Lots of Money ...
@@TheBeatenPaths really man? Those oem transmission fluids are excellent that makes ur AT shifts smoothly. I don’t get why ur against about how bad it is which it clearly is not.
I changed my ATF on my 2002 Yaris at (77,000 miles) 3 years ago and mine looked worse than that.Doesn't the owners manual say "Under normal driving conditions" ? 80% of vehicles do extreme driving ie in town/short trips/idling etc. Remember how long you sit in traffic nowadays/red lights? There's your answer.....that's why it's called "Extreme driving" incl cold/hot temps.
We have about 50 toyota priuses in our taxi fleet, most of them are already over 300k miles, never changed transmission oil a single time. Waste of money.
Very nice video. I would’ve liked to have heard you put a little more emphasis in replacing the crush washers when installing the fill and drain plugs, and used a torque wrench and speak about the importance of torque settings, especially in aluminum housings.
I took my Camry to Toyota dealership for transmission fluid change , I had the car back it was shifting hard on the freeway, went home check the dipstick the fluid was low. I had to add one quart of transmission fluid for it to shift correctly smooth
Transmission fluid lasts a long time because it's made to last a long time, and it runs through the radiator to keep cool. Not saying you shouldn't change it, but it does last a long time. Edit: Oh, and oil is supposed to look dirty because it's designed to carry dirt and such to the filter.
Every TMUSA dealership has records for service performed under warranty. After warranty, who knows? But when buying a used car, check to see the color of the synthetic motor oil. And change all brake fluid, ATM, etc. after purchasing the vehicle. Toyota only says "Lifetime Warranty" because they want you to buy a new car after the transmission goes. Fortunately, Toyota sells remanufactured transmissions for warranty use.
I was told by the dealer that the transmission fluid is maintenance free IDK 🤔 They also told me I didn't need synthetic oil and to use regular unleaded. I have 235,000 mi on my Prius and it is still running perfecto.
You really can't judge an oil's remaining lifespan or protective properties based on appearance alone. When I change the oil on my sailboat's 11HP diesel inboard, the oil is solid black in about 30 minutes of use.
Come on, Peter that can't be transmission fluid! That has to be motor oil!! LOL Peter, I have a question that maybe you can answer: Does the Tow Package add more transmission fluid (beyond 3.5 quarts)? I just helped a friend do a transmission drain & fill on their 2007 RAV4 V6 Limited WITH Tow Package with 86K They bought the car new and NEVER had any transmission oil or work done, so I am the first person to open the drain plug I asked them to purchase 4 quarts of WS fluid [since I just recently did my second transmission drain and fill on my 2009 Highlander, and I purchased a case (6) of WS fluid, so had two quarts extra] since I looked up the spec that stated 3.5 quarts was needed. Plus watched a bunch of other YT videos about it, and they, too, show either 3.5 or 3.75 quarts of transmission came out, and they measured it, so the 4 that I asked them to order should be fine. But to my surprise, when I took out their transmission fluid and measured it, I got 4 quarts and 22oz!! I measured it again, and it was the same. I asked them again if anyone had touched the transmission, and they said no. I have looked EVERYWHERE online and I even looked in their manual and found no reason why 4 quarts and 22ox came out. So in my mind, I am saying whatever came out must be put back in, but it didn't add up. Then I remembered that the car came with a Tow Package and I thought maybe there is an extra transmission cooler that Toyota added to help cool the transmission fluid faster when towing but again I could not find ANYTHING on how much more the extra cooler takes. Again couldn't find anything about it, Google was no help until I pushed it and found a small comment in a Reddit post about how the added tow package adds a little under one quart of transmission fluid. So there it is I found something to make sense of the extra fluid that came out, and I will be putting back the full 4 quarts and 22 oz to make sure that all is correct for them. I was really shocked that I wasn't able to find anywhere this simple info that should be easy to find, plus no mention of the transmission fluid difference, but there WAS a difference in the amount of coolant, with or without the Tow Package. Thank you Peter
Will you really change it twice, to flush it? I would of just pumped some (just a little) clean fluid in the fill hole with the drain hole still open, this would push a little more dirty fluid out. A very good clear video on how it's done, thanks. I love the oil bowl/catcher that has a drain spout.
While your fluids including brake fluod and coolant might LOOK new, heat and friction degrades the chemical compounds. Dirt and water WILL get in somehow over this course of time. Never go by looks. Always go by miles. Fluid is cheaper than rebuilds my friend
Real service interval Is every 30k miles regardless of the driving condition, I just changed on a newly owned ct200h with 120k where no one changed the transmission fluid and it was black like engine oil I was thrilled though
Has anyone checked out Idemitsu Type TLS-LV Transmission Fluid? It’s a fully synthetic ATF that’s compatible with Toyota’s ATF-WS fluid. Idemitsu also makes Type TLS, which is for older Toyota vehicles that require Type I-IV ATF.
They call it an eCVT - but it is quite different from - and much simpler than - a conventional CVT. It's basically a planetary power-share device and a conventional differential. The fluid is also used as a coolant for the motor-generators.
@@MrTangolizard I won't live long enough to do those miles. The owners' service book [Camry hybrid] does not quote a change interval. Ignore the colour, oils darken quickly.
Bill Thomas I was told it’s lifetime but Toyota thinks a life time is 100k but like I said my wife car is running fine however after watching this video and how easy it is I might get it done my Mercedes has to have a flush and the machine costs thousands so only Mercedes have them
What could be the reason for the fluid turning that dark in about 5 years? If I am not mistaken, the Toyota manual recommends replacing the fluid the first time in 100,000 miles or 10 years. I replaced the transmission fluid with ATF WS in my Prius 2013 after purchasing it in 2021 since I had no idea how the previous owner handled it. It had about 57,000 miles on it and the color of the fluid was way more clear (and better) than the one I have seen in this video.
Manual only said Inspect every 60k Miles, I have no idea how to inspect without draining it. I went with Full synthetic Valvoline Dex/Merc maxlife or Mannol WS wich has characteristic better than Toyota semi-synthetic WS for less than $5 per liter and after 40k miles later, it still running smoothly. I used Valvoline as alternatives for more than 10 years and as usual, Dealer always mark-up the price of fluid 2-3x. I know Mercedes Benz and BMW used Castrol Syntec/Edge Titanium but they sell it 3x more expensive, and Toyota used Mobil 1 0w-20, only the sticker is different but charged 50% more than market price. I think Peter also use VAlvoline Dex/MErc in Toyota many years ago and none of them had issue either
To inspect you remove the FILLER plug, stick your finger in to check level and color (with car LEVEL fluid level should be to the bottom of the hole and the color should show no brown) you may want to use a new gasket. Brand choice is just personal preference, if it lists the proper spec, I usually just by the cheapest on sale that day.
The dealership (service advisor) in Shreveport, LA (name withheld to avoid embarrassing the innocent) tried to explain to me that my 2008 Prius contained a "lifetime" fluid and it wasn't recommended that it be changed. The service advisor even went as far as to tell me that my transaxle would have a higher chance of failure if the fluid was changed and the transaxle "messed with" and didn't recommend me changing it. This conversation took place 61/2 years ago when the car had 104K miles on it and was at the dealership because the car died on my way to Dallas and really put me on the spot at the worst possible time. The car had to be winched onto a specially arranged flatbed to get it to the dealership. After five days, it turned out that the cause of death was one of the ECU's that had unceremoniously failed, and this failure caused the car to not go into "ready" mode. The defective part was part of a recent recall, so it was replaced free of charge. Meanwhile, the car has racked up 236,000 miles and the WS ATF has been changed 3 times. No, the tranny has not failed me. But the ABS actuator is in the process of failing. Keep up the good work, because I love your channel.
Odd.. I changed my fluid today. 92,000 miles on my Prius Prime owned since new, and the fluid was still very red. Wonder how that turned dirty so quick
So may people in this chat are confusing eCVT fluid changes and CVT. This topic is about changing an eCVT on a hybrid vehicle. Then you have people talking about the automatic transmissions and changing the filter, etc. Just stay on topic, please!!
I watched your video on how to change transmission fluid on my Prius V with 190,000 miles. After completing the process of filling and pulling the hose from the fill hole I accidentally slipped the plastic sticker that was sticking at the end of the hose into the transmission( I did not remove the home depot prize tag sticker at the end of the hose thinking it can hold the hose in place at fill hole) . My concern is , will this plastic sticker cause any damage to the transmission if left inside. Or do I have to take that sticker out by draining the fluid again and ( if I am lucky ) I might see that sticker at the drain hole. My car is still in the garage and I did not want to start until I get that sticker out ( if that's really required). I am thinking of running the old transmission fluid that I took out , to run it down the fill hole again simulating the process of flushing or what other fluid can I use to force it into fill hole and make that sticker get near the drain hole. If the water was not destructive to the transmission, I would have put water hose into fill hole and try to push the sticker near to the drain hole. I'll try to suck that sticker by placing vacuum hose into the drain hole and see if it works Any suggestions is greatly appreciated. I subscribed and Thank you.
I’m not a mechanic but I think your thought of draining and looking for sticker is a good start. If not seen then Re flush or use a portable camera scope and separate grasper on the fill and drain side. Good luck and post how you dealt with the issue.
My Prius has 235k miles. The transmission fluid has never been replaced. I always took my Prius to Toyota for maintenance and they never recommended this. I had them changed the oil every 5k miles, have changed the spark plugs twice. I guess I should habe know better but when I asked them to recommend what I should do for regular maintenance they never once said I should have the transmission fluid replaced. Is it safe to do at high mileage like mine or do I leave it alone? My car isn’t giving me any issues. I do want to drive the car at least 300k miles.
Hi thanks for the video, I’m in Ireland, weather here is harmless enough here, I have a Prius Plus 2013 . I called 2 x Toyota Dealerships here. One said change the ATF at 50km (aprox 30k miles & the other said every 60km ! So confusing. What have you seen recommended ? I’d much prefer to leave it to 100 at least as it’s expensive enough if doing it every 40 😅) Kind Regards
This is why I buy new. I don’t trust people to properly maintain their vehicles. At least I know where ever mile came from and everything is kept up service wise.
My moms POS 2013 Prius blew a head gasket at 160k miles.. $4,000 for a new engine installed and now it doesn’t get over 35mpg.. Whats up with that? She bought it new and had regular maintenance at Toyota and ofc it happens the same year the warranty ran out..
Is the drain plug magnetic (most are) and if so was there any steel shavings on it (show close up), be sure to wipe off all shavings before reinstalling.
@@loreall.2461 How many miles on your vehicle, were they "highway" or "city" miles? Did you change the CVT transmission fluid at the recommended intervals? Get a second opinion. Research the cost of a "rebuilt transmission" and also the company that rebuilt it, be sure to add shipping cost both ways.
No service history = Likely abused, possibly had the odometer tampered with (there is software available to do this). Check Toyota's service history that doesn't show up in Carfax. Airbag recalls are great for mileage notations.
Only the rich can afford the dealers hourly rate for example $165 dollars in North Texas an hour they want almost $400.00 to drain and fill the Radiator and Inverter when it takes a person with two hands and the information regarding drain and refill both is only 1-1.5 hours not there nearly $400.00 labor???
nope, doesn't matter. It holds 4 quarts or whatever manual says.....expansion doesn't matter, the level might raise "1 mm", Lol.....If the manual says 4quarts, then make sure that's what came out.....
Just wondering, since the Prius transaxle is more similar to a manual gearbox/differential than it is to a planetary gear automatic, and there is no torque converter in a Prius, why does Toyota use ATF instead of 90W high-pressure Hypoid gear oil? I would think that 90W would provide far more lubricating and wear resistance than that water-thin ATF fluid. My car is a 2019 Prius Prime. Only 12,000 miles on it so far, so it's not time to change transmission oil yet, but I am preparing to do it at 30K.
@@flagmichael - You are correct. All of the newer cars use very low viscosity lubricants for both engines and transmissions, to improve fuel economy. This is only possible because modern factories can fabricate engine and transmission parts to very precise tolerances, with bearing clearances accurate to 1/10,000 inch. As long as the bearing clearances remain tight, thin oil can still prevent metal-to-metal contact as long as RPM and temperature limits aren't exceeded. But one thing about these new engines is that once the crankshaft bearings and piston rings wear down a little, oil pressure drops off quickly, because the oil is thin, and then engine wear accelerates quickly. In any vehicle using these thin oils, it is very important to change the oil at least at the minimum frequency intervals in the service manual. The Prius transaxle is not only depending on the WTF fluid for lubrication, but also for cooling, and electrical insulation of the high-voltage 3-phase current flowing between the stator coils and the inverter/converter. As you can see in this video, Prius transmission fluid can get really dirty if not changed, and if it loses it's electrical resistance, dirty oil can allow short circuits to develop between the case and the MG2 stator coil, which burns out the stator, and can damage the inverter. A VERY expensive repair. I've seen a video here on UA-cam of the aftermath of an MG2 stator short and it isn't pretty.
@@laura-ann.0726 that's wrong the sector coils etc are completely insulated, if what you claim is true the crappy Ws fluid would become conductive as metal fines build up in the fluid
@@antpart7998 - You are right, the stator coils are insulated, but very powerful electric fields surround the windings, and if enough metal shavings build up around the stator, arcing can occur, which damages the insulation, leading to direct shorts across the windings. Search UA-cam for "Prius MG2 Stator Failure" and you will find several videos of teardowns of burned out Prius transaxles where the MG2 stator was destroyed by shorting, probably due to buildup of metal shavings. It's very important to change the fluid in these transaxles at regular intervals, just to prevent build up of crud around the stator coils.
The amount of fluid that you put back is absolutely not what you said, you must fill until it run out a good stream out of the fill tube and weight till it stops to insure that it is at the proper level.
I must say in addition to your expertise, I find your personality and voice to be quite warm and charming. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
I love how excited this guy is to see dirty fluid. Total car guy. Thanks for the video!
For anyone wondering why you always crack the filler bolt before the drain it's to ensure you don't drain all the fluid then strip the filler or break it having no way to refill the gearbox.
I saw a trick where someone filled a plastic bag with gear oil and shoved the whole thing back into the drain hole and put the bolt back. Then the bag just deteriorates. Probably not ideal but better than nothing. That being said: Always crack the fill bolt first.
I made that mistake once, which is why I now own a 3/4” easy out! But seriously, what was I going to do, NOT change the fluid because of a stripped fill plug? No, it had to come out, either the easy way or the easy out way.
@@CarlosRodriguez-hb3vq If you start with the fill plug and it laughs in your face, you can let penetrant oil have its way for a while before you call it quits. Maybe check it every week or so....
ALL fluids need to be changed regularly. Often, service intervals are not listed in the owners manual, so you have to give it your best guess. Every 2 years or so, I have my transaxle fluid changed, and also, have the brake system flushed, as well as the oil changes.(which I do every 5,000 miles) If your car uses power steering fluid, that too, needs to be changed every so often. I also have my cooling system flushed and changed every couple of years, as well. My '06 Prius has 280,000 miles on it, and it still runs like new. I'm still on the original water pump, catalytic converter, and main battery. I haven't even had to replace the oxygen sensor yet, because the low oil consumption of my engine hasn't fouled it yet.
When ever I acquire another used vehicle, I change all fluids, regardless of what I've been told. Even if it turns out that it had been serviced recently, it never hurts to flush everything out again, so all the fluids are as clean as when the car was new.
Aisin makes that transmission and they say 30000 miles change it
Better safe than sorry, the new owner should change all the fluids and start from point zero again ;)
I agree!
@cisa93 Well said!
Sam S no that is fine it’s dirty but really should be changed at 40,000 and there after every 40,000-50,000
That's what I did: trans drain and refill, Engine coolant, inverter coolant, oil change, all new brakes and rotors, spark plugs and coils and everything was done with OEM parts with the exception of the NGK iridium laser plugs and the coils. Also cleaned the MAF sensor, but I think I'll just get a new MAF just to be sure (if you look at the wells NGK channel they did a microscopic look at a MAF sensor cleaned with MAF spray and found it sloughs off the clear coat over the resistor wire).
My 14 Corolla has the "old" 4 speed auto but I was able to drop the pan and change the filter too. I then disconnected the return line from the radiator right before it went back into the transmission, attached a hose, and ran it into a 5 gallon bucket. I filled the pan with new fluid then had my wife start the car and I kept adding new fluid till the almost 7 quarts was replaced. I did this at 71,000 miles and the fluid was not as dirty as this, but I'm glad I did it. I used Amsoil's signature series fluid. Now at almost 81,000 miles, it still runs like new. I plan doing it again at 140,000.
That's the correct procedure that almost no one does. I have someone shift through the gears as it's pumping the old shit out. I use lubegard with cheap fluid on high miles cars, too. Shitmart HM dexron III works amazing on nissans.
This guy seems to love the Toyota’s he works on very genuine 🧰🔧🤠
My 2005 Gen 2 had about 255K on it last week when I did 2nd Trans Oil Change. It was done at about 125K before so now its on this 3rd fresh batch. 1. Factory File, 2. 125K Fill, 3. 255K fill. It was fairly dark but not alarmingly so. I just observed this is normal and did the change. I did use the WS spec but not from the dealer. I got a 4 quart bottle from Walmart for $17. Its called MaxLife and is for Toyota with WS spec. Works fine, drove it to LA to Phoenix and return, now issues.
How did you pump the Maxlife in, William?
Maxlife is what I'm using as well. Of course, it ain't $17 these days, it's $25 now but much more easily accessible being that they have it at every Walmart, Autozone, Advance, Oreilly's, etc. My '10 Prius is a delivery vehicle, so I'll probably do the fluids a lot more often. I'll be doing the engine oil monthly until I'm happy with how it's coming out, the condition of the oil filter I removed on the initial change after purchase hurt my soul. I suspect they were changing the oil and leaving the filter for quite some time, housing was a real mf'er to remove, too.
Bought my 2012 at 80k miles. Didn't change the transmission fluid until around 245k. Wasn't intentionally ignoring it, just wasn't mechanically inclined for a while. What a difference in the speed and acceleration. Luckily, no broken teeth, bits and no burnt smell. Color was reddish brown but not too bad. Super glad I changed it. Like a new car! Thanks!
I use Redline D6 ATF and have done this to my 06 prius needing WS. the first time it was kinda red with the previous fluid at 135k
over 3 years ago -it looked like it was changed by the other owner- I did it again at 165K this past summer and the Redline was still bright red and clean. . Good stuff
I would never use WS again. I have D6 in all 3 of my Prii. WS is only a Group 2 mineral oil. D6 is a Group 4/5 real synthetic. In my 2012 V there is less regen noise.
@@amazoidal ester base PAO 4/5 synthetic
Its not really getting mad at not cracking the filler plug first its just a good tip. As if your standard DIY person just drains all the oil out to find out the fill plug is stuck then they are in for a fun time. Big thumbs up on addressing it
One article about it (before UA-cam) described it as "avoiding embarrassment." I wondered if the embarrassment as from the screamed epithets.
My Toyota Tacoma calls for Toyota w .s. at fluid . I bought it in 2007 with 20k miles and changed the fluid with valvoline dexron 6 full synthetic transmission fluid and I changed it every 20k miles and I just sold my 2004 Tacoma with 350k miles on it and it runs great and tows my trailer with no problem . I would buy the valvoline DeX 6 from Walmart for $18 dollars in a 1 gallon bucket . Full synthetic /great products and it kept my truck going TOYOTA STRONG.
Peter - just use the same yellow jug that you have the fluid in. I keep clean ones always ready. Mark it with a sharpy or a piece of tape. Drain the bad fluid - leave it draining for several minutes so the remaining 'bad' fluid is super negligible. Refill to the sharpy mark. So easy. Identical containers works well too.
Thank you my friend,,greetings from TANZANIA,,we love toyota too as long as they are reliable no matter what part of the world
I have 2011 Highlander Hybrid at 59000 miles. Hope to see more contents of it. Love your steady simple procedures!
On my 2015 camry @134k miles, transmission had a noise, at very cold winter in Michigan, transmission will not engage to gears. I drained and filled twice with Valvoline maxlife, now it works great.
OEM fluids are the worst!!! Get them out the day you take it off the lot.
I have meet a 1996 v6 camry owner, I was curious how many miles he has, 265k. His neglected transmission stopped working a while ago, after his mechanical replaced fluid, the transmission works normally. Toyota transmission from 90s are extremely reliable.
@@TheBeatenPaths any evidence toward this?
@@bauuau18 Yup, car companies don't own oil companies. The only reputable engine manufacturer is Stihl, that I know of. At least they print on their 2 stroke that it's Castrol. And it's not great oil, but at least Stihl is honest about what they're selling you. All engine manufacturers either buy the cheapest oil they can get, bottle it and sell it for the highest margin. Or, they contract it out to the highest bidder. Contrary to what they say, they really don't care about your car once you drive it away.
I believe Toyota insist it is a 'life-time oil' for environmental reasons only. This apparently saved them several millions .... If I ever buy a Hybrid Toyota new - I would change the trans fluid at no more than 20 or 30 000 miles, to get rid of any swarf or wear particles from the running-in process. Then again at 60 000 and so on... I also stick a big round neodymium magnet on the outside of the drain plug too.
Great video. I just do a drain and fill (1x) every 50k with Toyota Type-IV OEM fluid. Gotta love the drain bolt on the pan (also a 10mm allen). My 2006 Matrix with 140k mi. runs perfect. I use two labelled identical Mobil-1 5qt containers. One gets old dirty fluid and the other get new fluid filled until level matches. Make sure level is correct before doing fluid change-it should be in "sealed" units.
Thats not enough.. Honestly. Not busting your balls. Just trying to help. Think about the volume of the 13 qts...(my Tacoma) Then a drain of 3.2qts. . Still have 10qts of dirty fluid . Use valvoline max ATF , its compatible with Toyotas even the World Standard fluid and it lasts longer(synthetic) its 17.98 @ Walmart for a gallon jug. buy 2 . Do one drain and fill , drive for a couple hundred , then do another one.... I do this every 20 k.... Ocd.
@@lane4574 I know. I should due it 2x. The ATF volume for a dry fill is 7.7qt. and I get about 3.25 on a single drain, so about %50 fresh. Also, the drained fluid is still in pretty good shape. If it was really dirty, I would do 2-3x. Thanks for your feedback.
@@MarzNet256 No prob, wow 7.7 , my Tacoma holds almost double. Thats why I said that in the prior comment. My bad. That ATF I talked about , Ive been using it for a while now ,almost 4yrs. No problems. I also throw Lucas Tran fix in the mix , Toyota forums had many saying use it for PM , ....Wouldn't have used it unless I heard it more than 20x. Peace
MarzNet256 I think the Toyota T-IV and WS are totally different fluids. Unless you used a universal fluid such as amsoil or BG which meets the T-IV and WS requirements the Toyota T-IV is the wrong fluid for the Prius CVT transmission. Toyota WS would be the correct specifications.
@@jtugfestiva Correct. They are different. I was referring to my vehicle: a 2006 Toyota Matrix, which uses Type IV.
Thanks for humoring me on that fill plug!
BTW, for anyone (justifiably) irritated with Toyota’s pricing on such a low quality (albeit very specifically designed) transmission fluid, Idemitsu sells the same spec under the name TLS-LV, and it can be had at your local NAPA dealer during their monthly sales for as little as $5.25/qt.
Is that really the same exact fluid as Toyota WS? Are they the supplier for Toyota?
heyitschino they’re both made in America so it wouldn’t surprise me. The annual production requirements for WS-spec fluid have to be pretty low. BeckArnley makes a WS spec fluid for Europe. Maybe others are out there, too?
@@koomo801 The Prius' electronic CVT (Power Split Device) consists of a planetary gear set, two electric motors, reduction gear and differential gears, and included bearings. Its ATF is for lubricating and cooling purposes only... Dexron-VI is an excellent option, and is available in superior fully synthetic formulas. I've replaced it twice in a Lexus CT-200h already.
Super Tech Dexron-VI (Warren Oil) www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-Full-Synthetic-Automatic-Transmission-Fluid-1-Quart/52626198
www.warrenoil.com/MSDS-Spec/PDS/Warren/PDS%20-%20Warren%20Dexron%20VI%20ATF.pdf
www.idemitsulubricants.com/product/atf-type-tls-lv
Lear is correct. WS is a Dex VI based full synthetic fluid. type IV is different from VI
There are many fluids that are certifies as replacements, just google it or check the label on the bottle.
My sister has owned her 2014 Corolla S for a year and a half now. It has just reached 100,000 Kilometers. It has the CvT transmission and I don't know if the previous owner ever changed the fluid. It has the "lifetime fluid" which is the craziest thing I have ever heard. Planned obsolescence is the only reason I suspect. I will be sure to tell her to have it changed soon!
In the UK I requested Toyota dealership to change my Prius transmission fluid with the standard service and guess what they charged me but didn’t change trans fluid as I caught them on camera. Well Done UK Toyota Dealership it’s sound like you guys don’t want hybrid cars to last long.
Wow which toyota dealer was this? I'm in South Wales and don't trust dealerships to do as they should. My wife thinks I'm paranoid but your experience doesn't surprise me.
Just did mine yesterday, I had 2.5 liters ( around 2.3 quarters) in my 2012 prius c, 151k miles.
I already changed the fluid- for the cooling system ( hybrid and engine). Oil changes every 5k miles with full synthetic and original oil FILTERS + Militec.
Next step will be spark plugs and brake fluid.
Everything is gonna be toyota, it's really cheap. And I'm doing it by myself at parking lot 🙂
I think that these cars last almost forever with certain care.
We have had nothing but Prius since 2002. The first gen had problems, and I heard the second gen still had some, but they are remarkable cars.
Would you seafoam the engine oil before an oil change?
@@JO3haNsum my comment was about 1 year ago, so, today I'm using everything from liqui moly... It has a good quality and more affordable than the Toyota or OEM parts...
Pre oil change:
* Liqui moly engine flush $18 ( Amazon or eBay)
Pos oil change:
Liqui moly ceratech ( every 30 k miles ) $ 22 ( Amazon or eBay)
The underside is quite clean.
Lol, yeah looks brand new. Must not live in road salt county.
So no filter and no dipsticks ? Very clean Japan car
just changed in mine 2008 Prius 2nd gen 75k miles. was same black. now after def. less movement when engine starts in P , less noise when breaking or in B. I think regenerative breaking wear the oil more than in other auto gearboxes.
Yes, changing the transmission fluid is so important. Toyota is part of the problem, though--for many of their vehicles, they claim that the transmission fluid never needs to be changed. But we both know that there is no such thing as "lifetime" transmission fluid, all fluids break down over time...and so do transmissions if the fluid is not changed
It doesnt break down it only gets dirty. It does not act as a lubricant only hydrolic fluid. Hydrolic systems must be very clean and tight the abrasive contaminants destroy the sytem and cause the transmission to fail.
@@brainwashingdetergent4128 It breaks down--this is evident by discoloration and a burned smell. If tested, even if all of the metal particles were strained out, it would no longer have the same properties as new fluid. But it is true that metal fragments also destroy transmissions. In either event, it still needs to be changed at regular intervals
@@justsumguy2u not really boss the fluid is not a lubricant only a hydrolic fluid so if it broke down hyrdrolic pressures would not be affected it would still work fine. If it is dirty than your transmission is already failing. It should be sealed tight there is no reason it should ever get dirty so if you find that it is your transmission has bad seals and needs rebuilt.
Toyota would love it if we would not change our transmission fluid. They would love selling us a new Toyota 🌟
@@brainwashingdetergent4128 In the Toyota Hybrid Transaxle the fluid is only a lubricant, not a hydraulic fluid. The transaxle is basically a set of differential gears with a pair of motor-generators connected in.
Thanks for the info and your contagious joy. I got confident I need to have the fluid changed, and a happy smile.
On my 2015 Camry I replaced it with Redline D6 fluid rather than the Toyota WS. Runs Great. I replace the filter and fluid every 40-50k miles.
Thanks
Is the Camry CVT too?
@@bauuau18 My Camry is a 4 Cylinder - it has a 6 speed auto transmission. The Camry Hybrid's have the CVT Trans.
Lifetime fluid = Good till your transmission explodes aka end of lifetime.
u mean warranty
The fluid is lifetime but the car is not lifetime lol
Toyota updated that the they recommend the original interval for changing the transmission fluid, but they also recommend changing it every 30k now.
I mean they're not wrong 😂
Dealers like to call transmission fluid lifetime to sell you a new transmission especially the new CVT transmissions they’re junk!
There is no “flush” for a Prius transmission as there is no torque converter or pressure valves. It’s a gearbox and electric motor windings. That’s it. So replace only. Changing at 60k Miles is a cheap and good preventive maintenance though.
And you can only drain 1/2 the fluid at most apparently.
@@JamesCaseEndercase In the Toyota hybrid transaxle the fluid is completely drained. There is no place for it to hide - it is never pumped out of the transmission and there is no torque converter to hold any. In most respects the hybrid transaxle is like a classic differential housing without any shims.
I did my fluid change at 80k, when should i do it again?
@@joeshmoe8952 Every 50k miles in good rule of thumb. 30k for severe
I changed it on 2016 RAV4 at 60k and it was clean and clear.
Actually , this one time I tried to loosen the bolt on the front diff on my Tacoma , it was fkn so stuck..So I went into town to ask a few garages if they could loosen it. Most of the mechanics at several different places , just pointed to a impact wrench and let me go to work. From Snap on , Klutch , nitro cat , IR. nothing worked. I was tripping out a little . So I came up with an idea of putting a jack under the wrenches handle and started pumping, it almost lifted my truck off the ground, before it finally made a loud pop. It finally was loose and I got to change my fluid......I put anti-seize on the threads, and have changed it several times since then , with no issues of corrosion weld. So the point of this story is that I would have been screwed , if I drained it first. At least for a few hours , until I figured it out. I ended up buying a I R 2235TIMAX with 1350 ft. lbs. of Torque , the trick is give it a high flow inlet and high flow outlet from the tank too......So now you wont lose air pressure with 100 ft of hose. Well not as much. Hope this helped someone out ...Peace.
The jack trick is a really good one. I've heard of people doing this to loosen stuck lug nuts before changing a wheel. You can also get a long piece of pipe (like 3+ feet) and slide it over the end of wrench. This will create great mechanical advantage.
@@MarzNet256 I would of used a breaker/Cheater bar if I could , room didnt allow for it...I worked in the oil fields , we used 60 inch Ridgid pipe wrenches and 8 ft breaker bar to thread 6 inch iron pipe on site , on a side of a mountain...Been around a little bit.
@Sam S The hose could be 4 inches , but its no good with a small 1/4 inch coupler hole. I've been around a little. From operating boom trucks , 500 ton die cutting presses , offshore platforms etc. etc. Thanks for the obvious. lol. And my air gets used almost every day....In agreeance with the, use it or lose it Motto. for most things. Did you know that your supposed to engage your 4 wheel drive for 10 miles a month? To keep it lubricated and functioning correctly for preventative maint.??
@Sam S I call bullshit on them too....Left rear goes to right front , and right rear goes to left front , and right front goes to left rear etc. you get the pic....Thats some shady crap. I don't usually complain about crap to the higher ups , unless its something like ,straight up lying to my face and costing me money in the long run....But in this case , Id get someones ass chewed enough to look like hamburger....Thats being malicious towards you, not acceptable anytime....They probably do it all the time to people and it needs to be addressed most definitely. I guess a guy has to show up in greasy overalls, wrench hanging out your back pocket and a mac truck hat on , , just to be taken seriously with them....
This works 100% where a short handle 3 lb sledgehammer can be used:
Put counterclockwise pressure on the wrench and hit the wrench end with a 3 lb sledgehammer lightly. Increase the hitting force while maintaining pressure on the wrench until the bolt loosens.
This method also works with 20-year-old water heaters to remove stuck nipples.
My son changed hybrid transaxle fluid on a 2002 Prius at 209K miles. It looked pretty murky (gray) but the transaxle never complained. Our 2014 maintenance schedule calls for inspecting the transaxle fluid at 30K miles, or replacing it in severe service at 60K mile intervals. It does not have a replacement schedule for normal service.
When did you by the car? How many miles I mean.. was this the first time you've changed the fluid at 209,000? Thanks
If I'm getting the car into position to "inspect" the fluid, I'm just changing that shit. The hard part is getting the car in the air and level, lol. Not hard to pop out a couple plugs, then refill it.
So did you add 3.6 or 3.25 quarts?
I had my Lexus dealer tell me it doesn’t need to be done. We have a 2013 RX 350 AWD with only 50,000 KM. I know it’s overkill changing it, but it’s our vehicle, just take our money and change it
Very good video. I have a lexus ct... and very soon I will change this fluid.
Thank u,i have 2013 lexus rx 350 bought used at 69k miles ,i have the carfax but theres no record that it was changed the trans oil.now im decided the change it
The thing is i dont know how many quarts of trans oil i need to buy
Im estimating i need to buy 5 quarts
i tow a trailer every day w/tundra and changed at 35000 first time. I wa s surprised how dirty the fluid was
The Tundra is a whole different ball game. It has a conventional transmission (automatic, I assume, in your case) and depends heavily on regular fluid changes.
@@flagmichael every 30k changed
The sauerkraut test never lies! You are doing god’s work Peter! 🙏🏼
brilliantly clear video!
Excellent thanks thats a huge warning, im changing my atf asap
... "Max-Life" Full-Synthetic Transmission Fluid by Valvoline meets Toyota's "World Standard" (WS) Specifications ... It is the only alternative that I have found, and that I regularly use in my 2010-Corolla ... $18.00 per gallon at Walmart ... $28.00 per gallon at Amazon ... Works Great, and Saves Me Lots of Money ...
Thanks for sharing this video, definitely needed.
Beautiful job, very correct and thorough.
Except he replaced it crappy OEM fluid. Kinda negates the correct & thorough aspect lol.
@@TheBeatenPaths really man? Those oem transmission fluids are excellent that makes ur AT shifts smoothly.
I don’t get why ur against about how bad it is which it clearly is not.
And don't forget to change the rear diff fluid at the same time if you have AWD.
I changed my ATF on my 2002 Yaris at (77,000 miles) 3 years ago and mine looked worse than that.Doesn't the owners manual say "Under normal driving conditions" ? 80% of vehicles do extreme driving ie in town/short trips/idling etc. Remember how long you sit in traffic nowadays/red lights? There's your answer.....that's why it's called "Extreme driving" incl cold/hot temps.
We have about 50 toyota priuses in our taxi fleet, most of them are already over 300k miles, never changed transmission oil a single time. Waste of money.
Non-sense, you sound like the dealer 😂
Thanks for sharing this video.
Very nice video. I would’ve liked to have heard you put a little more emphasis in replacing the crush washers when installing the fill and drain plugs, and used a torque wrench and speak about the importance of torque settings, especially in aluminum housings.
Is the crush washer or something the dealer has in stock? What if I just use Teflon tape?
I took my Camry to Toyota dealership for transmission fluid change , I had the car back it was shifting hard on the freeway, went home check the dipstick the fluid was low. I had to add one quart of transmission fluid for it to shift correctly smooth
Transmission fluid lasts a long time because it's made to last a long time, and it runs through the radiator to keep cool. Not saying you shouldn't change it, but it does last a long time.
Edit: Oh, and oil is supposed to look dirty because it's designed to carry dirt and such to the filter.
The Toyota hybrid fluid does not go anywhere, much like a manual gearbox. It is cooled by the inverter cooling loop.
Every TMUSA dealership has records for service performed under warranty. After warranty, who knows? But when buying a used car, check to see the color of the synthetic motor oil. And change all brake fluid, ATM, etc. after purchasing the vehicle. Toyota only says "Lifetime Warranty" because they want you to buy a new car after the transmission goes. Fortunately, Toyota sells remanufactured transmissions for warranty use.
I was told by the dealer that the transmission fluid is maintenance free IDK 🤔 They also told me I didn't need synthetic oil and to use regular unleaded.
I have 235,000 mi on my Prius and it is still running perfecto.
You really can't judge an oil's remaining lifespan or protective properties based on appearance alone. When I change the oil on my sailboat's 11HP diesel inboard, the oil is solid black in about 30 minutes of use.
Pretty normal for a 72k fluid. Obviously it's not new. Some oxidation and that's about it.
Excellent video ,. Thank you !!
Come on, Peter that can't be transmission fluid! That has to be motor oil!! LOL
Peter, I have a question that maybe you can answer: Does the Tow Package add more transmission fluid (beyond 3.5 quarts)?
I just helped a friend do a transmission drain & fill on their 2007 RAV4 V6 Limited WITH Tow Package with 86K
They bought the car new and NEVER had any transmission oil or work done, so I am the first person to open the drain plug
I asked them to purchase 4 quarts of WS fluid [since I just recently did my second transmission drain and fill on my 2009 Highlander, and I purchased a case (6) of WS fluid, so had two quarts extra] since I looked up the spec that stated 3.5 quarts was needed. Plus watched a bunch of other YT videos about it, and they, too, show either 3.5 or 3.75 quarts of transmission came out, and they measured it, so the 4 that I asked them to order should be fine. But to my surprise, when I took out their transmission fluid and measured it, I got 4 quarts and 22oz!! I measured it again, and it was the same. I asked them again if anyone had touched the transmission, and they said no. I have looked EVERYWHERE online and I even looked in their manual and found no reason why 4 quarts and 22ox came out. So in my mind, I am saying whatever came out must be put back in, but it didn't add up. Then I remembered that the car came with a Tow Package and I thought maybe there is an extra transmission cooler that Toyota added to help cool the transmission fluid faster when towing but again I could not find ANYTHING on how much more the extra cooler takes. Again couldn't find anything about it, Google was no help until I pushed it and found a small comment in a Reddit post about how the added tow package adds a little under one quart of transmission fluid. So there it is I found something to make sense of the extra fluid that came out, and I will be putting back the full 4 quarts and 22 oz to make sure that all is correct for them. I was really shocked that I wasn't able to find anywhere this simple info that should be easy to find, plus no mention of the transmission fluid difference, but there WAS a difference in the amount of coolant, with or without the Tow Package. Thank you Peter
Excellent work!
Thank you.
Very surprised to see you don't use a torque wrench - the spec is 29 ft/lbs so it sure looks like you over torque them.
Will you really change it twice, to flush it? I would of just pumped some (just a little) clean fluid in the fill hole with the drain hole still open, this would push a little more dirty fluid out. A very good clear video on how it's done, thanks. I love the oil bowl/catcher that has a drain spout.
this was absulutely great
I replaced my transmission fluid, the old fluid looked like new, my Toyota prius 2010. With 78000 miles. I think i could wait much longer.
While your fluids including brake fluod and coolant might LOOK new, heat and friction degrades the chemical compounds. Dirt and water WILL get in somehow over this course of time.
Never go by looks. Always go by miles. Fluid is cheaper than rebuilds my friend
Real service interval
Is every 30k miles regardless of the driving condition, I just changed on a newly owned ct200h with 120k where no one changed the transmission fluid and it was black like engine oil I was thrilled though
Do you observe any difference after that fluid change with how the car drives?
@@malan07 still drives good
Has anyone checked out Idemitsu Type TLS-LV Transmission Fluid? It’s a fully synthetic ATF that’s compatible with Toyota’s ATF-WS fluid.
Idemitsu also makes Type TLS, which is for older Toyota vehicles that require Type I-IV ATF.
I thought the Prius had a CVT transmission and would require a separate formulation.
Your videos are great. I sure wish I had a lift. Thank you.
They call it an eCVT - but it is quite different from - and much simpler than - a conventional CVT. It's basically a planetary power-share device and a conventional differential. The fluid is also used as a coolant for the motor-generators.
Richard King ADI Well I learned something today about the transmission fluid in a Prius eCVT. Thanks for the information.
@@richardking6066 There is a coolant loop from the inverter coolant but I don't know if that cools the oil or cools the motors directly.
You know you don't need a lift right? You just need a jack and 2 pairs of jack stand and a willingness to do it !
Great video!
Think you sir so great god bless you
did my first change at 192k. Im surprised the transmission still works.
Jay O my wife’s is at 290k miles and I haven’t changed it yet still works fine
@@MrTangolizard
I won't live long enough to do those miles. The owners' service book [Camry hybrid] does not quote a change interval. Ignore the colour, oils darken quickly.
Bill Thomas I was told it’s lifetime but Toyota thinks a life time is 100k but like I said my wife car is running fine however after watching this video and how easy it is I might get it done my Mercedes has to have a flush and the machine costs thousands so only Mercedes have them
@@MrTangolizard
Could I suggest you research a little further? It may not be this easy.
Bill Thomas really seems that’s how it’s done on most cars ? My e class has the 9 speed box and is a nightmare to do so there is no way I can do it
What was that drip on the left side at 5:03-04? Water?
What could be the reason for the fluid turning that dark in about 5 years? If I am not mistaken, the Toyota manual recommends replacing the fluid the first time in 100,000 miles or 10 years. I replaced the transmission fluid with ATF WS in my Prius 2013 after purchasing it in 2021 since I had no idea how the previous owner handled it. It had about 57,000 miles on it and the color of the fluid was way more clear (and better) than the one I have seen in this video.
Manual only said Inspect every 60k Miles, I have no idea how to inspect without draining it. I went with Full synthetic Valvoline Dex/Merc maxlife or Mannol WS wich has characteristic better than Toyota semi-synthetic WS for less than $5 per liter and after 40k miles later, it still running smoothly. I used Valvoline as alternatives for more than 10 years and as usual, Dealer always mark-up the price of fluid 2-3x. I know Mercedes Benz and BMW used Castrol Syntec/Edge Titanium but they sell it 3x more expensive, and Toyota used Mobil 1 0w-20, only the sticker is different but charged 50% more than market price. I think Peter also use VAlvoline Dex/MErc in Toyota many years ago and none of them had issue either
To inspect you remove the FILLER plug, stick your finger in to check level and color (with car LEVEL fluid level should be to the bottom of the hole and the color should show no brown) you may want to use a new gasket. Brand choice is just personal preference, if it lists the proper spec, I usually just by the cheapest on sale that day.
The dealership (service advisor) in Shreveport, LA (name withheld to avoid embarrassing the innocent) tried to explain to me that my 2008 Prius contained a "lifetime" fluid and it wasn't recommended that it be changed. The service advisor even went as far as to tell me that my transaxle would have a higher chance of failure if the fluid was changed and the transaxle "messed with" and didn't recommend me changing it. This conversation took place 61/2 years ago when the car had 104K miles on it and was at the dealership because the car died on my way to Dallas and really put me on the spot at the worst possible time. The car had to be winched onto a specially arranged flatbed to get it to the dealership. After five days, it turned out that the cause of death was one of the ECU's that had unceremoniously failed, and this failure caused the car to not go into "ready" mode. The defective part was part of a recent recall, so it was replaced free of charge. Meanwhile, the car has racked up 236,000 miles and the WS ATF has been changed 3 times. No, the tranny has not failed me. But the ABS actuator is in the process of failing. Keep up the good work, because I love your channel.
Odd.. I changed my fluid today. 92,000 miles on my Prius Prime owned since new, and the fluid was still very red. Wonder how that turned dirty so quick
Are you a calm driver?
@@Elaba_ not at all.
looks like excellent fuel ;)
So may people in this chat are confusing eCVT fluid changes and CVT. This topic is about changing an eCVT on a hybrid vehicle.
Then you have people talking about the automatic transmissions and changing the filter, etc.
Just stay on topic, please!!
Thank you!
Hi! Thank you for your video. Here in Italy some garages do the wash recircle of the Prius gear before putting inside the new oil. Did you ever tried?
While color is no indication of fluid condition I change mine out every 60k. Helps make them last
Nice video
Thank You Very Much ... T M sir !
I watched your video on how to change transmission fluid on my Prius V with 190,000 miles. After completing the process of filling and pulling the hose from the fill hole I accidentally slipped the plastic sticker that was sticking at the end of the hose into the transmission( I did not remove the home depot prize tag sticker at the end of the hose thinking it can hold the hose in place at fill hole) . My concern is , will this plastic sticker cause any damage to the transmission if left inside. Or do I have to take that sticker out by draining the fluid again and ( if I am lucky ) I might see that sticker at the drain hole. My car is still in the garage and I did not want to start until I get that sticker out ( if that's really required). I am thinking of running the old transmission fluid that I took out , to run it down the fill hole again simulating the process of flushing or what other fluid can I use to force it into fill hole and make that sticker get near the drain hole. If the water was not destructive to the transmission, I would have put water hose into fill hole and try to push the sticker near to the drain hole. I'll try to suck that sticker by placing vacuum hose into the drain hole and see if it works Any suggestions is greatly appreciated. I subscribed and Thank you.
I’m not a mechanic but I think your thought of draining and looking for sticker is a good start. If not seen then Re flush or use a portable camera scope and separate grasper on the fill and drain side. Good luck and post how you dealt with the issue.
My Prius has 235k miles. The transmission fluid has never been replaced. I always took my Prius to Toyota for maintenance and they never recommended this. I had them changed the oil every 5k miles, have changed the spark plugs twice. I guess I should habe know better but when I asked them to recommend what I should do for regular maintenance they never once said I should have the transmission fluid replaced. Is it safe to do at high mileage like mine or do I leave it alone? My car isn’t giving me any issues. I do want to drive the car at least 300k miles.
So I’m one of those people that’s frustrated with their dealership.
Hi thanks for the video, I’m in Ireland, weather here is harmless enough here, I have a Prius Plus 2013 . I called 2 x Toyota Dealerships here. One said change the ATF at 50km (aprox 30k miles & the other said every 60km ! So confusing. What have you seen recommended ? I’d much prefer to leave it to 100 at least as it’s expensive enough if doing it every 40 😅) Kind Regards
Ty 🙏🏽
My Toyota dealer said use CVT FLUID BECAUSE IT HAS CVT TRANSMISSION. A LOT OF CALL DEALER AND GIVE THEM YOUR VIN # TO GET THE RIGHT FLUID...
This is why I buy new. I don’t trust people to properly maintain their vehicles. At least I know where ever mile came from and everything is kept up service wise.
My moms POS 2013 Prius blew a head gasket at 160k miles.. $4,000 for a new engine installed and now it doesn’t get over 35mpg.. Whats up with that? She bought it new and had regular maintenance at Toyota and ofc it happens the same year the warranty ran out..
Is the drain plug magnetic (most are) and if so was there any steel shavings on it (show close up), be sure to wipe off all shavings before reinstalling.
@@loreall.2461 How many miles on your vehicle, were they "highway" or "city" miles? Did you change the CVT transmission fluid at the recommended intervals? Get a second opinion. Research the cost of a "rebuilt transmission" and also the company that rebuilt it, be sure to add shipping cost both ways.
My Lexus (w/ sealed tranny) has 225k and is still running on the factory original transmission fluid. No issues.
No service history = Likely abused, possibly had the odometer tampered with (there is software available to do this).
Check Toyota's service history that doesn't show up in Carfax. Airbag recalls are great for mileage notations.
Just remember Prius has a hybrid xmsssion which is more like a manual. There is no filter either
Hello my car, Prius 2007 I have 33,000,000 km and did not exchange lime oil, can I replace it now or is it dangerous for lime and Thank you
Oil hits the pan at 3:45
money shot
Maybe its quite normal looking after 72.000 miles..who knows..? That it doesnt look new isnt so hard to understand.
I changed the transmission fluid on my 2015 prius at 80,000 miles, when should I change it again? Thank You
Only the rich can afford the dealers hourly rate for example $165 dollars in North Texas an hour they want almost $400.00 to drain and fill the Radiator and Inverter when it takes a person with two hands and the information regarding drain and refill both is only 1-1.5 hours not there nearly $400.00 labor???
Transmission has to be completely cool right? Hot fluid expands and new fluid that is going in are cool so less volume going in.
nope, doesn't matter. It holds 4 quarts or whatever manual says.....expansion doesn't matter, the level might raise "1 mm", Lol.....If the manual says 4quarts, then make sure that's what came out.....
Just wondering, since the Prius transaxle is more similar to a manual gearbox/differential than it is to a planetary gear automatic, and there is no torque converter in a Prius, why does Toyota use ATF instead of 90W high-pressure Hypoid gear oil? I would think that 90W would provide far more lubricating and wear resistance than that water-thin ATF fluid. My car is a 2019 Prius Prime. Only 12,000 miles on it so far, so it's not time to change transmission oil yet, but I am preparing to do it at 30K.
I think the low viscosity fluid is for efficiency (fuel economy). Just a guess.
@@flagmichael - You are correct. All of the newer cars use very low viscosity lubricants for both engines and transmissions, to improve fuel economy. This is only possible because modern factories can fabricate engine and transmission parts to very precise tolerances, with bearing clearances accurate to 1/10,000 inch. As long as the bearing clearances remain tight, thin oil can still prevent metal-to-metal contact as long as RPM and temperature limits aren't exceeded. But one thing about these new engines is that once the crankshaft bearings and piston rings wear down a little, oil pressure drops off quickly, because the oil is thin, and then engine wear accelerates quickly. In any vehicle using these thin oils, it is very important to change the oil at least at the minimum frequency intervals in the service manual. The Prius transaxle is not only depending on the WTF fluid for lubrication, but also for cooling, and electrical insulation of the high-voltage 3-phase current flowing between the stator coils and the inverter/converter. As you can see in this video, Prius transmission fluid can get really dirty if not changed, and if it loses it's electrical resistance, dirty oil can allow short circuits to develop between the case and the MG2 stator coil, which burns out the stator, and can damage the inverter. A VERY expensive repair. I've seen a video here on UA-cam of the aftermath of an MG2 stator short and it isn't pretty.
@@laura-ann.0726 that's wrong the sector coils etc are completely insulated, if what you claim is true the crappy Ws fluid would become conductive as metal fines build up in the fluid
@@antpart7998 - You are right, the stator coils are insulated, but very powerful electric fields surround the windings, and if enough metal shavings build up around the stator, arcing can occur, which damages the insulation, leading to direct shorts across the windings. Search UA-cam for "Prius MG2 Stator Failure" and you will find several videos of teardowns of burned out Prius transaxles where the MG2 stator was destroyed by shorting, probably due to buildup of metal shavings. It's very important to change the fluid in these transaxles at regular intervals, just to prevent build up of crud around the stator coils.
Why r you putting ATF fluid in CVT transmission.......................?
The amount of fluid that you put back is absolutely not what you said, you must fill until it run out a good stream out of the fill tube and weight till it stops to insure that it is at the proper level.
My 2010 Prius took 4.5 quarts to the fill level. 1.8, right,?