I could list the countless ways you've instructed me, but today I'll thank you for emphasizing clearing drilled shavings and Tomislav for instructing still bit sharpening. They combined to vastly improve my experience with a Jacob's chuck.
Nowadays, when I'm drilling that way, I apply compressed air into the hole behind the forstner bit to clear out all shavings as I go, It doesn't have to be full blast. The added benefit ts that is keeps the drill bit cool throughout.
Neat tube with some really nice figure. Although you have been doing this for many years, I really like how you still are willing to take the time to share the basic details of each of the steps you are doing. This time, it was seeing the details of how you rolled the beads.
Great piece! Wouldn't it be great to have a compressed air line along the center of thell shaft to blow the shavings out and keep the bit cool? Also some forstner bits have a bit more of an angle at the cutting edge sending the shavings out a bit more.
Nice work, as always -- such a treat to watch your expertise and experience. I'd have appreciated seeing the timber from which you got this blank, and seen how you decided to cut it so. So glad you left the knot in, as it gives much character. After microwaving, usual oil/wax finish?
I'd go for no finish if it's going stright into use. Turn and sand and wash before using, then wash up after using. The coffee should darken the wood and handling will develop the sort of patina that you can't get out of a bottle. If the cup is going on display, then I'd finish with beeswax, knowing that'll come off when the cup is washed in hot water and detergent.
Spur drives are mostly used for centre work but are still okay for facework as here. I could have used a chuck, but wanted the hole at centre left by the spur drive for the final chucking.
@@johnmitchell1614 I don't use Steb centres because they require pressure from the tailcentre. I see a tailcentre as supporting a blank, not forced against it.
No, I don't weigh anything I'm microwaving. I just cook pieces on full power a few times so the they come out steaming and too hot to hold. Then I let them sit around for a few weeks to stabilise fully. I'm interested in how green-turned bowls and tubes warp, which is what I want, and microwaving achieves that in minutes rather than weeks or months. Drying is a handy side effect.
At 14:27 or so, you say there are two ways to get rid of ---- marks. Is it teeth marks? I couldn’t quite make it out. Thanks for another always clear, instructive video!
It doesn't matter what Richard Raffan turns. Every item is useful and beautiful too.
I discovered your channel several weeks ago. You are a wonderful teacher! Thank you very much for this video.
That was a very clear demonstration on how to cut beads with a 3/8 spinal gouge.
I could list the countless ways you've instructed me, but today I'll thank you for emphasizing clearing drilled shavings and Tomislav for instructing still bit sharpening. They combined to vastly improve my experience with a Jacob's chuck.
I just wish I could get my Forstner bit half that sharp
Nicely done Richard. I always enjoy seeing what you can do with a piece of timber. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
I always appreciate your demos. I still haven't mastered your beading techniques.
Richard, thank you so much for sharing. I always learn something from each of your videos. Thank you!
Nowadays, when I'm drilling that way, I apply compressed air into the hole behind the forstner bit to clear out all shavings as I go, It doesn't have to be full blast. The added benefit ts that is keeps the drill bit cool throughout.
Well done Richard, I’m really enjoying these green turnings.
Das ist wahres Drechslerkönnen … solch eine geniale Röhrenführung 🤩
Neat tube with some really nice figure. Although you have been doing this for many years, I really like how you still are willing to take the time to share the basic details of each of the steps you are doing. This time, it was seeing the details of how you rolled the beads.
Great piece!
Wouldn't it be great to have a compressed air line along the center of thell shaft to blow the shavings out and keep the bit cool?
Also some forstner bits have a bit more of an angle at the cutting edge sending the shavings out a bit more.
Thank you for sharing Richard. You videos are always instructional and enjoyable.
Great pencil pot Richard.
A very nice tube. Thanks for sharing!
Nice work, as always -- such a treat to watch your expertise and experience. I'd have appreciated seeing the timber from which you got this blank, and seen how you decided to cut it so. So glad you left the knot in, as it gives much character. After microwaving, usual oil/wax finish?
There's a video showing cutting blanks from an endgrain slice, including this blank. ua-cam.com/video/4Qj0tKIRGGE/v-deo.html
Thanks for sharing.
Great work dude 😘😘
I have tried turning cross grain a few times drive spur kept slipping then i blew the piece right off the lathe great video
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Love the grain on elm!
Beautiful.
Thanks Richard
Excellent, thanks
Thanks!
Richard , kinda looks like a turtle , turtle pencil pot has a ring to it .
❤ Gorgeous ❤
I love htat it kind of looks like a bear's face.
Richard, what are your thoughts on wood and finish for an everyday wooden coffee cup?
I'd go for no finish if it's going stright into use. Turn and sand and wash before using, then wash up after using. The coffee should darken the wood and handling will develop the sort of patina that you can't get out of a bottle. If the cup is going on display, then I'd finish with beeswax, knowing that'll come off when the cup is washed in hot water and detergent.
Thank you. I don't mind the patina of use. @@RichardRaffanwoodturning
@@joeydupre6153 In the long run it's the best way to go.
Is using a skew a no-no with cross grain?
It can be done but definitely not recommended. Skew chisels are designed for turning spindles.
I managed to crack one of these in half while drilling because it jammed up with shavings
I was surprised to see you using a spur drive. Maybe you often do, but I hate those things.
What do you use, a chuck or steb centre? Best regards. Hmm, or a screw?
Spur drives are mostly used for centre work but are still okay for facework as here. I could have used a chuck, but wanted the hole at centre left by the spur drive for the final chucking.
@@johnmitchell1614 I don't use Steb centres because they require pressure from the tailcentre. I see a tailcentre as supporting a blank, not forced against it.
I use a steb center (centre) or a 2-prong spur, which I think bites better. But you do need tailstock pressure.
I was talking about center work. For face work, I use a screw, a 2-prong or a Oneway Big Bite chuck spur for large blanks.
Did you go through a weighing process for the micro-wave?
No, I don't weigh anything I'm microwaving. I just cook pieces on full power a few times so the they come out steaming and too hot to hold. Then I let them sit around for a few weeks to stabilise fully. I'm interested in how green-turned bowls and tubes warp, which is what I want, and microwaving achieves that in minutes rather than weeks or months. Drying is a handy side effect.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thank you. I’ll give it a go.
At 14:27 or so, you say there are two ways to get rid of ---- marks. Is it teeth marks? I couldn’t quite make it out. Thanks for another always clear, instructive video!
@@loujacobs9291 Teeth marks. You can hide all manner of small marks and defects in a vee groove.
Very nice boring job for a woodturner!:)