A very nice little cup. An excellent demo of end grain hollowing. You always amaze me with that upside down cut with the bowl gouge. Very pretty grain and nice color. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
I learned nearly all wood turning techniques from your book "Tauntons Complete Illustrated Guide to Turning" published 2013 in german translation under the title "Drechseln Maschinen-Werkzeuge-Techniken". Even today, after more then 10 years of experience in wood turning, I still refer to this book. Glad to see you in person.
I’ve watched hundreds of hours of you turning and it still blows my mind how easy you make it seem and how efficient you are. I’m about halfway there but you set a high standard! First time I’ve seen rice bran oil used. Just bought some on eBay. It looked great! Thought I’d better try it! Thanks again for this video. I had the idea that that piece could have been made with a goblet base. Might be a good video for us. Also I have quite a bit of Dutch elm (sometimes called American elm) which most people think of like a weed and it’s despised. I actually think it looks great turned, especially dyed to a reddish brown color. But it is extremely hard on tools dulling them quite quickly. I thought it might have silica in it and you confirmed this, to a certain extent. Assuming this elm is similar to yours. Take care, Scott
I don't recall ever turning any Elm before, that's really pretty. If I run across some I'll have to give it a go. Thank you Richard for all you do to help us fellow turners.
Richard, what is the "trick" to cutting across the face of the base (about the 18:25 mark). When I attempt similar across the base of the urns I make, I wind up the a catch which skates up the outside surface.
You're probably pushing the tool forward too quickly.. You need to let the wood come to the tool, so the tool moves forward ever slower as you approach centre and the cut stops at centre. .
If you weren't explaining and filming, how long would one of these cups take you? It's a real pleasure to watch you work! Your hollowing technique has made my time in the workshop much more enjoyable, thanks for the education!
Turning a production run of these 20 years ago using more amenable timber I'd probably have finished seven or eight an hour. I'd have hollowed a dozen or two, then turned the bases as a batch.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning damn. That's impressive. You must've had MOUNTAINS of shavings!! Any advice for what to do with all the waste? I'm just a hobby turner and wind up with tons of chips and shavings that just get tossed. Knowing you, you had a way to profit from them back in your production days !
@@naturaIIydifferent In Britain in the 1970s I had a Fulgora stove that burnt sawdust and shavings, so I heated the workshop. In Australia, all the shavings have gone on the garden as mulch, and where there was grass to mow is now all bedded-down shavings.
❤ Nicely done I always wondered why Richard doesn’t use a turning hook for internal end grain wood turning ❓i know they are difficult to sharpen but they leave an excellent surface with hardly any need for sanding 👍
This is the way I was shown how to hollow endgrain in 1970. As a production turner I've never found a more efficient method, nor have I seen a more effecient method of hollowing hardwoods. Hook tools work best on softwoods.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning we make our own Hss Sunday tools with dust extraction in side the handle, you simply unscrew the hook from the hollow shaft when sharpening and can work 1feet (300mm) away from the rest safely 👍
As usual Richard another beautiful item. Your teaching is the best. And that sock has become an international icon, I must dip a sock in wax and give it a go, it really seems to work a treat. Is the sock wool or cotton?
I use Richard’s oil/beeswax finish and I use a cut up cotton T-shirt for my “sock”. The beeswax will accumulate in the cloth over time all by itself so no need to dip it into melted beeswax
In cases like this I use a piece of leather or flat rubber sheet (like a cut up bike tire) as a buffer between the wood and the jaws of a chuck. Never had any marks of any kind doing it that way. It may be slightly less secure, so I exercise a bit more gentleness.
The portion of the blank in the chuck isn't round, so chuck marks are not of concern. As you see in my Chucks Not Marking Wood video, Vicmarc chucks don't mark the wood when gripping a diameter equal to the chuck jaws. ua-cam.com/video/DV2T6oJgCi4/v-deo.html
Hi Richard. Another great video - thanks. Question. Ive been trying to get those fantastic shavings like in your videos. Ive got my tools really sharp, and still struggle. I have noticed you run your lathe speed much faster then i do - does it make alot of difference? I also get alot of vibration noise which i think is due to the bench i sit my lathe on not being heavy/substantial.
First you need to know that some timbers have very short gain that doesn't allow you to create long curly shavings. However you're working a commercially common hardwoods like cherry, maple, walnut, ash, or poplar, a lack of long curly shavings means you need to adjust your tool presentation. Speed shouldn't be an issue but you need to be sure not to push the tool hard into the cut: let the wood come to the tool. If your bench is vibrating, try to weight it down with something heavy. Bags or cement or sand are popular additions to lightweight lathe stands.
The advantage of an oil and beeswax finish is that when utilitarian items are washed the finish comes off, after which a patina develops with use as it does on a wood chopping or serving board, wooden plate, wooden salad bowl, or drinking vessel. On pieces that won’t get wet, beeswax is a good base for ongoing care and regular polishing that can build to a glossy patina in a few months. My observation is that hard finishes and sealers eventually crack, look terrible, and need refurbishing, whereas my bowls tend to look better with age, use and ongoing care.
A lovely little cup. I do like a good bit of elm. Was the plan to make two shallow bowls from this blank? Almost enough blank left to make a lid for this. ;-) Is there an advantage to rice oil? Thanks for another instructive and entertaining video.
There will proibably be another bowl from the waste. I'm trying rice bran oil becasue I couldn't find any boiled linseed last weekend. No complaints so far.
Good teaching video Richard. Nice finished box. One thought and I’m not trying to teach you how to suck eggs but Why did you use rice bran oil. Yes it does have good qualities when used for cooking, however it also has a short shelf life of about 6 months once opened before going rancid. Rancid or off oils leave a horrible smell on finished wood products as most oils although food safe are not drying oils and will go rancid on finished products as they oxidate. You always used raw linseed oil (food safe ) which doesn’t go rancid as well as Tung and walnut which are all drying oils. Coconut oil has one of the longest use by of up to 2 years before going rancid. It also has a higher melting point than other cooking oils and is in a hard state during winter but still soft enough to use.
Recently I was unable to buy boiled linseed oil so I thought I'd revert to a cooking oil and try rice bran oil. Throughout the 1970s and 80s I finished everything with a cooking oil and beeswax mix. I've never encountered any rancidity so wonder if that's something to do with the beeswax. To me, the advantage of an oil/beeswax finish is that when utilitarian bowls are washed the finish comes off, after which a patina develops with use as it does on a wood chopping or serving board, wooden plate, wooden salad bowl, or cup. On pieces that won’t get wet, the oil/beeswax is a good base for ongoing care and regular polishing that can build to a glossy patina in a few months. My observation is that hard finishes and sealers eventually crack, look terrible, and need refurbishing, whereas my bowls tend to look better with age, use, and ongoing care.
what is woodturning ? maybe ( not only but ..) exploring hiden beauty of wood presenting in skills dancing with knives and inspirative advices .everything is here thanks to you Mr. Richard , Tomislav T and many others . for experience of creation and wood smell I am going to turn something . greeting from Zagreb , Hrvatska . Miro
Wishful thinking on your part. When turning scoops, only ¼" of an 8" blank was in a cup chuck. Turning 50 or 60 a day at least one day a week for 12 years, I got pretty good at back hollowing and I didn't pull many out. Here's how it's done: ua-cam.com/video/_KdPGAqXOds/v-deo.html
@@starhawke380 after turning as long and as much as Richard has, he knows what he can do at the lathe. Us mortals wouldn't go at it with as much gusto as we don't have 50 years turning behind us
@@bushratbeachbum I tried being a little more aggressive hollowing out a maple bowl I'm working on, and all it did was stop my lathe turning. I wonder now how powerful his lathe motor is.
That is gorgeous!!!
And demonstrated and communicated so clearly
Thank you!!!
Blessings
A very nice little cup. An excellent demo of end grain hollowing. You always amaze me with that upside down cut with the bowl gouge. Very pretty grain and nice color. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
I learn something new whenever I watch your videos! Thank you.
I learned nearly all wood turning techniques from your book "Tauntons Complete Illustrated Guide to Turning" published 2013 in german translation under the title "Drechseln Maschinen-Werkzeuge-Techniken". Even today, after more then 10 years of experience in wood turning, I still refer to this book. Glad to see you in person.
I’ve watched hundreds of hours of you turning and it still blows my mind how easy you make it seem and how efficient you are. I’m about halfway there but you set a high standard! First time I’ve seen rice bran oil used. Just bought some on eBay. It looked great! Thought I’d better try it! Thanks again for this video. I had the idea that that piece could have been made with a goblet base. Might be a good video for us. Also I have quite a bit of Dutch elm (sometimes called American elm) which most people think of like a weed and it’s despised. I actually think it looks great turned, especially dyed to a reddish brown color. But it is extremely hard on tools dulling them quite quickly. I thought it might have silica in it and you confirmed this, to a certain extent. Assuming this elm is similar to yours. Take care, Scott
Elms andmaples seem particularly keen to pull silica out of the ground, but I've encountered it in many other timbers too.
Always a great teaching session - thank you Richard.
I don't recall ever turning any Elm before, that's really pretty. If I run across some I'll have to give it a go. Thank you Richard for all you do to help us fellow turners.
You make it look so easy and smooth. Impressive work as always. Really appreciate learning from your demonstrations!!!
Still the master and one of the best teachers on the planet! Thank you!!!
Glorious to watch a real master at work as always.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and skills with the rest of us.
It's appreciated!!
I like the magpie lurking in the background at the beginning
Perfect job, thank you so much for great video
I was told on Facebook last week you can't hollow endgrain with a spindle gouge. I told them to watch your videos.
Thank you for posting this ! You solved so concerns when dealing with end grain.
Thank you for another great teaching moment! Always learn something new from your videos.
Thank you for the wonderful video. Watching you work is both educational and mesmerizing.
Very nice, another great video. I do like the grain in this cup.
I really like the form of this cup. Surprised you didn’t burn in the groove near the rim with wire before finishing
Great little up Richard.
What an amazing teaching !! Thank you so much
Amm...why I can't see the three dots to save into my UA-cam subjects?
Richard, what is the "trick" to cutting across the face of the base (about the 18:25 mark). When I attempt similar across the base of the urns I make, I wind up the a catch which skates up the outside surface.
You're probably pushing the tool forward too quickly.. You need to let the wood come to the tool, so the tool moves forward ever slower as you approach centre and the cut stops at centre. .
I should have watched this so much sooner.
I hope the sock makes a cameo.
It's not ready for retirement just yet.
To me Richard Raffan is an inspiration for all timber turners
@@Penqueen2010He couldn't do it without the sock.
Very nice
If you weren't explaining and filming, how long would one of these cups take you? It's a real pleasure to watch you work! Your hollowing technique has made my time in the workshop much more enjoyable, thanks for the education!
Turning a production run of these 20 years ago using more amenable timber I'd probably have finished seven or eight an hour. I'd have hollowed a dozen or two, then turned the bases as a batch.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning damn. That's impressive. You must've had MOUNTAINS of shavings!! Any advice for what to do with all the waste? I'm just a hobby turner and wind up with tons of chips and shavings that just get tossed. Knowing you, you had a way to profit from them back in your production days !
@@naturaIIydifferent In Britain in the 1970s I had a Fulgora stove that burnt sawdust and shavings, so I heated the workshop. In Australia, all the shavings have gone on the garden as mulch, and where there was grass to mow is now all bedded-down shavings.
Beautiful
❤ Nicely done I always wondered why Richard doesn’t use a turning hook for internal end grain wood turning ❓i know they are difficult to sharpen but they leave an excellent surface with hardly any need for sanding 👍
This is the way I was shown how to hollow endgrain in 1970. As a production turner I've never found a more efficient method, nor have I seen a more effecient method of hollowing hardwoods. Hook tools work best on softwoods.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning ❤️Thanks hook and ring tools are rather expensive if you don’t make them yourself ,i think for huge work they are a must 👍
@@Svendus I tried hooks and ring tools 40 years ago and occasionally since and continue to prefer my gouges and scrapers.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning we make our own Hss Sunday tools with dust extraction in side the handle, you simply unscrew the hook from the hollow shaft when sharpening and can work 1feet (300mm) away from the rest safely 👍
As usual Richard another beautiful item. Your teaching is the best. And that sock has become an international icon, I must dip a sock in wax and give it a go, it really seems to work a treat. Is the sock wool or cotton?
The cotton socks accumulate melted wax when used as a polishing rag. You don't need to mess around melting wax into a cotton sock at the outset.
I use Richard’s oil/beeswax finish and I use a cut up cotton T-shirt for my “sock”. The beeswax will accumulate in the cloth over time all by itself so no need to dip it into melted beeswax
Thanks Richard
In cases like this I use a piece of leather or flat rubber sheet (like a cut up bike tire) as a buffer between the wood and the jaws of a chuck. Never had any marks of any kind doing it that way. It may be slightly less secure, so I exercise a bit more gentleness.
The portion of the blank in the chuck isn't round, so chuck marks are not of concern. As you see in my Chucks Not Marking Wood video, Vicmarc chucks don't mark the wood when gripping a diameter equal to the chuck jaws. ua-cam.com/video/DV2T6oJgCi4/v-deo.html
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning I did not know about that brand. I’ll check it out. Thanks!
Hi Richard. Another great video - thanks.
Question. Ive been trying to get those fantastic shavings like in your videos. Ive got my tools really sharp, and still struggle. I have noticed you run your lathe speed much faster then i do - does it make alot of difference?
I also get alot of vibration noise which i think is due to the bench i sit my lathe on not being heavy/substantial.
First you need to know that some timbers have very short gain that doesn't allow you to create long curly shavings. However you're working a commercially common hardwoods like cherry, maple, walnut, ash, or poplar, a lack of long curly shavings means you need to adjust your tool presentation. Speed shouldn't be an issue but you need to be sure not to push the tool hard into the cut: let the wood come to the tool.
If your bench is vibrating, try to weight it down with something heavy. Bags or cement or sand are popular additions to lightweight lathe stands.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning thanks for that. Ill give it a go. The woods im using are all dry, and are typically beech, blackwood and American ash.
@@ArchEdge YOu probably only need to roll the gouge slightly to find a curly shaving.
How well does the rice oil / beeswax finish stand up when warm liquids (e.g. tea) are poured into the cup? Or is the cup intended for cold drinks?
The advantage of an oil and beeswax finish is that when utilitarian items are washed the finish comes off, after which a patina develops with use as it does on a wood chopping or serving board, wooden plate, wooden salad bowl, or drinking vessel. On pieces that won’t get wet, beeswax is a good base for ongoing care and regular polishing that can build to a glossy patina in a few months. My observation is that hard finishes and sealers eventually crack, look terrible, and need refurbishing, whereas my bowls tend to look better with age, use and ongoing care.
Awesome!
A lovely little cup. I do like a good bit of elm. Was the plan to make two shallow bowls from this blank? Almost enough blank left to make a lid for this. ;-) Is there an advantage to rice oil? Thanks for another instructive and entertaining video.
There will proibably be another bowl from the waste. I'm trying rice bran oil becasue I couldn't find any boiled linseed last weekend. No complaints so far.
Is the rice oil the same as that used for cooking?
Yes. Purchased from Aldi.
Thank you for taking the time to answer. Your videos are greatly appreciated.
Good teaching video Richard. Nice finished box.
One thought and I’m not trying to teach you how to suck eggs but Why did you use rice bran oil. Yes it does have good qualities when used for cooking, however it also has a short shelf life of about 6 months once opened before going rancid.
Rancid or off oils leave a horrible smell on finished wood products as most oils although food safe are not drying oils and will go rancid on finished products as they oxidate.
You always used raw linseed oil (food safe ) which doesn’t go rancid as well as Tung and walnut which are all drying oils. Coconut oil has one of the longest use by of up to 2 years before going rancid. It also has a higher melting point than other cooking oils and is in a hard state during winter but still soft enough to use.
Recently I was unable to buy boiled linseed oil so I thought I'd revert to a cooking oil and try rice bran oil. Throughout the 1970s and 80s I finished everything with a cooking oil and beeswax mix. I've never encountered any rancidity so wonder if that's something to do with the beeswax. To me, the advantage of an oil/beeswax finish is that when utilitarian bowls are washed the finish comes off, after which a patina develops with use as it does on a wood chopping or serving board, wooden plate, wooden salad bowl, or cup. On pieces that won’t get wet, the oil/beeswax is a good base for ongoing care and regular polishing that can build to a glossy patina in a few months. My observation is that hard finishes and sealers eventually crack, look terrible, and need refurbishing, whereas my bowls tend to look better with age, use, and ongoing care.
what is woodturning ? maybe ( not only but ..) exploring hiden beauty of wood presenting in skills dancing with knives and inspirative advices .everything is here thanks to you Mr. Richard , Tomislav T and many others . for experience of creation and wood smell I am going to turn something . greeting from Zagreb , Hrvatska . Miro
I take it Richard does not own a spindle roughing gouge.
I would like to point out that if it weren't for those shark jaws that cup would have been flying during the hollowing process. Great work
Wishful thinking on your part. When turning scoops, only ¼" of an 8" blank was in a cup chuck. Turning 50 or 60 a day at least one day a week for 12 years, I got pretty good at back hollowing and I didn't pull many out. Here's how it's done: ua-cam.com/video/_KdPGAqXOds/v-deo.html
He does seem to be a little... aggressive... in roughing out the shape.
@@starhawke380 after turning as long and as much as Richard has, he knows what he can do at the lathe.
Us mortals wouldn't go at it with as much gusto as we don't have 50 years turning behind us
@@bushratbeachbum I tried being a little more aggressive hollowing out a maple bowl I'm working on, and all it did was stop my lathe turning. I wonder now how powerful his lathe motor is.
@@starhawke380 pretty sure the little vicmark 150 have a 1hp motor.
Really sharp tools are the key to good tuning