Well I didn't expect that. Just clicked on a random link thinking I would see somebody patch together some steel, then toss a drive train in and call it a race car. That was some meticulous work.
I've stumbled across this series on youtube for "background noise" just from the recommendations algorithm... I have admit I've completely stopped what I was doing on another screen and am impressed with this build! Inspirational!! I'm excited to keep watching, I see over in the sidebar there is a "First Track Test"....
Nice series of videos. Here in Adelaide I use a 5m bed 5 axis router, seems a shame to watch something already CAD modeled being built by hand. :) I got to do the main body panel plugs of one of the new Formula 5000 cars for the reintroduction of the racing class. MDF buildup was used for a more cost effective alternative to tooling board. The customer chose to do the final finishing to molding standards, which suited me fine. In my patternmaker days we dumped the PVA based release for one with a solvent in it that left a silicone feel when applied. The PVA ones will tend to be more clingy like a lunch wrap is, where as the silicone based ones will pop earlier particularly if you can get compressed air down a partly separated area. Most likely it is that the bog is separating from the foam easier than the mold from the plug, rather than the release not working properly or anything wrong with its application. Polyester with it's quick set time will get hotter than epoxy, which can have an adverse effect on PVA type releases where areas are thick or hardener ratios are not optimal for application on a hot day.
Mate where were you two years ago! I decided to go this way to save costs but ultimately it wouldn't have been much different and I'd have saved so much time. Live and learn. Lots I could have done better all through the bodywork fabrication but can't change it now.
You live and learn, it's always better the second time round. FYI here is a link to my Facebook page facebook.com/doug.smyth.31 that has a link to the routers Flickr album.
your work is impressive impressive... i don't know what to say... humbling inspiring - like my plan to work on something is now crazy boosted (since your work was way way harder).
Moulds parting lines and flanges, use melamine white board, apply with bog along the edge that meets the plug, bog squeezes out to 1 seal flange and 2 attach flange then use heat gun to set bog be ready with sharp knife, trim green bead of bog flush with plug and working face of flange. Perfect flange line and seal. Bog won't stick to PVA. So flange just pops off latter. Use 8 mm dowels on face of melamine so dowels become impregnated between flanges and mold location.
That would've helped for sure. If the plug had survived I've have made a second set of molds, the first set are pretty poor and probably won't be able to make many bodywork pieces without a bit of work to improve them.
Tinfoil would work, but then so would a lot of different stuff. Most manufacturers of (large) fiberglass parts use a 'Mold Release Agent' that you simply spray on the mold ahead of the first layer of fiberglass. I've be told that the old way of doing it (getting the fiberglass to release from the mold) was to apply a thin coat of petroleum jelly to the mold first. AND WHAT THE HECK IS BOG?! (p.s. You can get a 'sureform' file for roughing out the foam It's much, much faster.)
₳M€RICO true cause he could’ve keep the whole piece to make more panels just in case he crashed or got into an accident That sucks Everyone makes things so difficult
A trick is to spray the entire body with gel-coat and then sand and buff it, then paint, then make molds off it. Saves having to use two-component resin bog.
I have made molds to create composite pieces to be sold.. A couple points: The plug should have been covered with fiberglass cloth + epoxy resin - the epoxy would not eat into the underlying materials. Having the layer(s) of fiberglass on top of the plug would have given the plug the strength necessary to resist coming apart when the mold pieces were removed. On top of that, a lightweight fairing compound mixed with epoxy resin (not Bondo) should have been applied. This would have been far easier to deal with than the Bondo, both in application leveling out and sanding. It would have likely been a lot cheaper too. I would have definitely used flanges at the joints that were TWO mating pieces of wood, metal, whatever.. One becoming part of one mold section, and the other becoming part of the other adjoining mold section. They could have been drilled and bolted together for alignment purposes later on if that were desired (like if you wanted to layup the finished part as the sum of those two sections simultaneously.. Mold making sucks and there is so much handwork involved. That said, using the right materials can make it a lot easier in the long run.. A quick look at boat building as a topic can show a lot of real world examples.. Not what I was doing but still a great reference. Still I congratulate you on this build. Very ambitious and I am loving watching the videos. They are a blast to watch! Cheers!
@8:30 (8-o) OMG, I thought I was organized! Sucks how your molds stuck to the pattern. It's hard to part with the pattern after all that work-- mine is still sitting downstairs collecting dust. I now think the best way to make the pattern is to lay .062" fiberglass layer right over the foam before doing any refinement, then putty, prime, & paint over that. In your case, that would have held the pattern together while removing the molds.
Yes it was too bad it was destroyed, I'm not sentimental though so it was probably going to end up in the bin one way or another. The incremental damage just made the process of making the molds so much harder. I like the idea of a thin fibreglass layer, that would probably have held it together through the strain of removing the molds. Even if the top paint failed it should still be dimensionally accurate if that area was repaired. Ah well, it's history now.
the reason why the plug got destroyed is because the underlying surface below the wax was not buffed to a fine finish like a car. also you were using too much pva a fine mist is all that is needed, i have seen pva eat through wax and if you apply too much it will cause its self to run off . so its either wax mold release or pva not both.
I've made a lot of large aircraft plugs using this method. 1. After you had the foam to shape you would have saved a lot of time and filler by first applying a layer 225 chop matt to create a hard skin for the bog to adhere too. 2. You MUST always use PVA on fresh surfaces. Wax alone can have horrific stick ups. I had some myself so researched the problem and soon found the official reason for this, its a chemical reaction...Bla bla. My method sounds strange but parts literally fall off! Spray 4 cotes of PVA. Then once dry one coat of wax then hand buff. So yes PVA then wax. Try it. Love your project I'm about to start an F1000
I bet it painful to throw away the plug! Not criticizing, just curious. The mold sections seemed pretty flexible. Did you have any issues with that or did you wish you had added some ribbing to them?
In the future you'll find compressed air and a rubber-tipped blower your best friend when getting the parts loose instead of destroying the plug- also the "Mold" parts you made should have had a bunch of wooden ribs glassed into them to help the mold keep its shape to be able to cast the body accurately, what you have there is a floppy mess that will never yield a strait part or body shell without major headaches.....
The 225 mat first applied to the raw foam then bog would have made the plug 100 times stronger allowing you to knock off mold sections without pulling all the foam out.
really sorry that the plug was destroyed after so much work:( in hindsight i guess making a small plug with the same methods to test the release and practise would have been benificial. i too would have thought 7 layers of mould relese would have been plenty
Great videos um you didn't have to make the plug look at boat and aircraft you just make the mold and it's good for many layups if you have the dimensions and you did , don't mean to take away from your effort was Great:)
I'm using DZUS fasteners to attach the panels, basically they are small quick releases. I'm happy with them so far. I'll do a video on them once the bodywork is finally completed. I'm going to have it painted in two weeks, so it'll be some time after that.
ive started using plaster because i only saw your reply now, do you think i will have problems.? ( I plan on putting the car body filler over the plaster but still curious)
The songs are: Schlow Motion 1 by David Bjoerk feat. Niklas Ahlström Short Life 3 by Niklas Gustavsson Climbing through Air 2 by Tomas Skyldeberg All on Epidemic Sound
Interesting. Thnx!! I really needed the hurry. 💪🏻. Casually, yesterday I was working on Autocad Inventor and I saw that after doing the piece there was a specific step to see the area and u could change it to any unit u may like.
It was, though as someone else mentioned I could have improved the quality of the surface to make the removal easier which may have saved the plug. More experience working with fiberglass would have helped greatly.
G'day, to answer your questions. 1) The bog is to provide a hard smooth surface on top of the foam, plus to provide a surface that can be shaped as needed. The foam and wood underneath aren't perfect, particularly the foam so the bog allowed me to build and sand until the shape was better. 2) I painted the plug to provide a smooth liquid tight surface to pull the molds from and again to try to achieve an even better surface.
you did those split plugs all wrong. you re not supposed to remove the parts of a split plug, nothing will fit properly afterwards. you only remove the medium that was making up the wall (those tapes you had made to create flanges). also your molds are too thin, needs more layers.
benjamin collinson how would you say I should have done it then out of interest? I went down to a fine sandpaper, I think 1200 or 1600 then used the wax as well, at the time I wasn't sure what more I could have done. Would have been nice if it were easier for sure.
mdf is super super porous, so basic steps would have been two to three coats of high build primer, flat it back, two coats of regular primer, flat it back, 3 coats of your base coat, wet sand it back, 2 coats of lacquer, then wet sand it and buff it. it should at that point be near enough as glossy as you can get it. Then to make the moulds you need to decide where the breaks will be and wax that body really well, then create either Plasticine or more permanent acrylic barriers to build the gel coat and fibreglass against. once you've laid on all your matting and resin then you'll need to add strengthening ribs to it in either mdf or acrylic so it doesn't flex when it is taken off the body and so you get more accurate moulds in the future. all that said, mould making is notoriously straight forward as much as it is fickle. good channel by the way, enjoying it.
Right, I probably ended up with near that much primer and base coat from the repeated coat/sand process but I didn't use any sort of lacquer, nor did I wet sand or buff. Good advice thanks, I'll keep it in mind if I go through something like this again. I paid the price on the moulds and I'm still paying the price right now on the bodywork for these issues with the plug. Doing my head in! But I'm getting there, it just would have been a much smoother process if I had more experience or knowledge before starting.
Why did you remove the mold sections individually ? You should have glassed all the panels and then removed them all at the same time.. What is "Bog" ? I would have used plaster, then polyurethane over it.. Paint the plug with 2 part epoxy and then wax it.. You must use the 2 part kind. Not the 1 part.. The mold will come right off.
"Bog" is builders bog, something we have in the hardware store in Aus - basically a chemically setting material that's easy to sand and shape. I can't say my way was the right way, only that it got the job done - I'd have benefitted from a better procedure for sure.
Just a word of caution, the smell aside, epoxy resin is actually pretty nasty stuff. While it might not cause a chemical burn like vinylester, epoxy resins have extreme allergizing effect, some more potent than others, which when developed can cause severe scarring of the skin and makes working with epoxy a practical impossibility. Had the spill been of the more allergizing variants of epoxy systems, you'd not be working with epoxy ever again.
This was a key criteria for me when I selected the specific epoxy that I used for the bodywork pieces themselves. The one I selected is formulated to be as safe as possible to use. I made that decision after this job doing these moulds, I hated using the vinylester resin, it really was horrid stuff. Working under the PPE made the job difficult and I still found it left my hands burning even with the gloves on and no contact. Not keen to ever work with it again.
It's "builders bog", something you can get in any Australian hardware store but I guess not overseas. Basically a putty which you mix with a hardner and it sets into a solid that you can sand to shape.
Unfortunate that that happened to the plug! in future after you have finished sanding the plug and applied all the filler and the surface is level, use aluminium foil tape instead of the paint. apply the release agent on top of the foil and then apply the fibreglass. If the release agent does its job then the body will stay intact and nothing should pull off with the new mold. If in some parts not enough release agent was applied then the resin won't stick to the foil tape. i don't know if you have seen this video before but I'll stick it in. watch the whole thing he explains the idea behind the tape thing better than me. ua-cam.com/video/PNxZjOExd6g/v-deo.html
I've not seen that technique before but it does look like it would release easier than I found mine did. I would say though that the surface quality probably wouldn't be so good and would need more work due to the little crinkles in the aluminium foil tape. But considering my surface quality wasn't that great anyway it might have been a better compromise for me. Thanks for the heads up.
Well I didn't expect that. Just clicked on a random link thinking I would see somebody patch together some steel, then toss a drive train in and call it a race car. That was some meticulous work.
I've stumbled across this series on youtube for "background noise" just from the recommendations algorithm... I have admit I've completely stopped what I was doing on another screen and am impressed with this build! Inspirational!! I'm excited to keep watching, I see over in the sidebar there is a "First Track Test"....
Thanks for the feedback, great to hear you've enjoyed it. You should be able to find the video from the first track test on my channel page.
9:36 anyone who's ever worked on making something knows that feeling!! Hahah great video series though so much skill.
Astounding. Your ambition and commitment are inspiring!
Thanks.
Just discovered your channel today, I think your work is amazing and it has really inspired me. Best wishes for the future.
A lot of people stop at good enough but you really work to get stuff to the best possible state. Good stuff!
Super impressed with the technical skills as far as utilizing excel for the resin. attention to detail was massive good work bro.
That is such a huge amount of work! Like everyone else, its really too bad about the plug man, I'm impressed with your commitment to hard work
Extremly i respect to you. You tell every detail and working hours
WOW... What a work. Love your videos!
Nice series of videos.
Here in Adelaide I use a 5m bed 5 axis router, seems a shame to watch something already CAD modeled being built by hand. :)
I got to do the main body panel plugs of one of the new Formula 5000 cars for the reintroduction of the racing class.
MDF buildup was used for a more cost effective alternative to tooling board.
The customer chose to do the final finishing to molding standards, which suited me fine.
In my patternmaker days we dumped the PVA based release for one with a solvent in it that left a silicone feel when applied.
The PVA ones will tend to be more clingy like a lunch wrap is, where as the silicone based ones will pop earlier particularly if you can get compressed air down a partly separated area.
Most likely it is that the bog is separating from the foam easier than the mold from the plug, rather than the release not working properly or anything wrong with its application.
Polyester with it's quick set time will get hotter than epoxy, which can have an adverse effect on PVA type releases where areas are thick or hardener ratios are not optimal for application on a hot day.
Mate where were you two years ago! I decided to go this way to save costs but ultimately it wouldn't have been much different and I'd have saved so much time. Live and learn. Lots I could have done better all through the bodywork fabrication but can't change it now.
You live and learn, it's always better the second time round.
FYI here is a link to my Facebook page facebook.com/doug.smyth.31 that has a link to the routers Flickr album.
your work is impressive impressive... i don't know what to say... humbling inspiring - like my plan to work on something is now crazy boosted (since your work was way way harder).
Thanks, appreciate the feedback. Good luck with your project.
Well done!
been watching all the videos, truly amazing editing work and even better body work and manufacturing!!
Moulds parting lines and flanges, use melamine white board, apply with bog along the edge that meets the plug, bog squeezes out to 1 seal flange and 2 attach flange then use heat gun to set bog be ready with sharp knife, trim green bead of bog flush with plug and working face of flange. Perfect flange line and seal. Bog won't stick to PVA. So flange just pops off latter.
Use 8 mm dowels on face of melamine so dowels become impregnated between flanges and mold location.
Awsome work! I also love the background music!
great job
Thank you for your videos! you have done a great job.
some people uses a lay of tinfoil between the original and the fiberglass mould. It's a shame that the car is destroyed after so much work! :(
That would've helped for sure. If the plug had survived I've have made a second set of molds, the first set are pretty poor and probably won't be able to make many bodywork pieces without a bit of work to improve them.
OH, NOO!!!
would clear coat on top of the paint have helped?
Tinfoil would work, but then so would a lot of different stuff. Most manufacturers of (large) fiberglass parts use a 'Mold Release Agent' that you simply spray on the mold ahead of the first layer of fiberglass. I've be told that the old way of doing it (getting the fiberglass to release from the mold) was to apply a thin coat of petroleum jelly to the mold first. AND WHAT THE HECK IS BOG?! (p.s. You can get a 'sureform' file for roughing out the foam It's much, much faster.)
₳M€RICO true cause he could’ve keep the whole piece to make more panels just in case he crashed or got into an accident
That sucks
Everyone makes things so difficult
i found clear wrapping foil is best. It also make the surface glass smooth finish, east to peal off from the body work.
A trick is to spray the entire body with gel-coat and then sand and buff it, then paint, then make molds off it. Saves having to use two-component resin bog.
Very awesome!
Good stuff mate!
Thanks!
love your videos men, wathcing from philippines
Cool!
Ur dad seems like a smart guy.
I have made molds to create composite pieces to be sold.. A couple points: The plug should have been covered with fiberglass cloth + epoxy resin - the epoxy would not eat into the underlying materials. Having the layer(s) of fiberglass on top of the plug would have given the plug the strength necessary to resist coming apart when the mold pieces were removed. On top of that, a lightweight fairing compound mixed with epoxy resin (not Bondo) should have been applied. This would have been far easier to deal with than the Bondo, both in application leveling out and sanding. It would have likely been a lot cheaper too. I would have definitely used flanges at the joints that were TWO mating pieces of wood, metal, whatever.. One becoming part of one mold section, and the other becoming part of the other adjoining mold section. They could have been drilled and bolted together for alignment purposes later on if that were desired (like if you wanted to layup the finished part as the sum of those two sections simultaneously.. Mold making sucks and there is so much handwork involved. That said, using the right materials can make it a lot easier in the long run.. A quick look at boat building as a topic can show a lot of real world examples.. Not what I was doing but still a great reference.
Still I congratulate you on this build. Very ambitious and I am loving watching the videos. They are a blast to watch! Cheers!
Yeah I just hope that anyone wanting to do this reads your comment - and goes further even with research. Would've saved me a lot of time.
@8:30 (8-o) OMG, I thought I was organized! Sucks how your molds stuck to the pattern. It's hard to part with the pattern after all that work-- mine is still sitting downstairs collecting dust. I now think the best way to make the pattern is to lay .062" fiberglass layer right over the foam before doing any refinement, then putty, prime, & paint over that. In your case, that would have held the pattern together while removing the molds.
Yes it was too bad it was destroyed, I'm not sentimental though so it was probably going to end up in the bin one way or another. The incremental damage just made the process of making the molds so much harder. I like the idea of a thin fibreglass layer, that would probably have held it together through the strain of removing the molds. Even if the top paint failed it should still be dimensionally accurate if that area was repaired. Ah well, it's history now.
Wow would you believe it I love both your channels and then ere you two are communicating together ... small world huh:)
the reason why the plug got destroyed is because the underlying surface below the wax was not buffed to a fine finish like a car. also you were using too much pva a fine mist is all that is needed, i have seen pva eat through wax and if you apply too much it will cause its self to run off .
so its either wax mold release or pva not both.
I've made a lot of large aircraft plugs using this method. 1. After you had the foam to shape you would have saved a lot of time and filler by first applying a layer 225 chop matt to create a hard skin for the bog to adhere too. 2. You MUST always use PVA on fresh surfaces. Wax alone can have horrific stick ups. I had some myself so researched the problem and soon found the official reason for this, its a chemical reaction...Bla bla. My method sounds strange but parts literally fall off! Spray 4 cotes of PVA. Then once dry one coat of wax then hand buff. So yes PVA then wax. Try it.
Love your project I'm about to start an F1000
Damn I wish i could have a father who would help me like yours did on my projects
I bet it painful to throw away the plug!
Not criticizing, just curious. The mold sections seemed pretty flexible. Did you have any issues with that or did you wish you had added some ribbing to them?
In the future you'll find compressed air and a rubber-tipped blower your best friend when getting the parts loose instead of destroying the plug- also the "Mold" parts you made should have had a bunch of wooden ribs glassed into them to help the mold keep its shape to be able to cast the body accurately, what you have there is a floppy mess that will never yield a strait part or body shell without major headaches.....
Just wait to see the bodywork build, you'll find your comment is almost prophetic... I could have done a better job for sure.
what do you do for a job because you are bloody good at this if it is DIY
I'm a mechanical engineer.
The 225 mat first applied to the raw foam then bog would have made the plug 100 times stronger allowing you to knock off mold sections without pulling all the foam out.
Thanks for your feedback, I'm sure it would have been helpful. Hopefully if someone else comes here looking for a method they see your comments.
really sorry that the plug was destroyed after so much work:( in hindsight i guess making a small plug with the same methods to test the release and practise would have been benificial. i too would have thought 7 layers of mould relese would have been plenty
lmao. fuck sakes thanks for the idea with the vacuum and sander!! i shoulda done that a long time ago :P
It’s such a shame that you had to get rid of the mold. What’s the best way to keep it from breaking apart?
I pray you saved your plugs and now sell body kits!!
Great videos um you didn't have to make the plug look at boat and aircraft you just make the mold and it's good for many layups if you have the dimensions and you did , don't mean to take away from your effort was Great:)
I felt so bad when the mold broke off with the fiberglass, i did not expect it! How old are you?
I just realised that the mold breaking off did not matter, since it's a mold, not the final body.
Not very old but doing all this work added a few years.
ThomsenMotorsport I understand. It shure looks like a LOT of work, so that makes sense. Have a great day!
How did you attach the body panels to the chassis? Will you do a video on that?
I'm using DZUS fasteners to attach the panels, basically they are small quick releases. I'm happy with them so far. I'll do a video on them once the bodywork is finally completed. I'm going to have it painted in two weeks, so it'll be some time after that.
Awesome thanks!
what is name of software do u use?
Solidworks
what about the diffuser and under body work you have on your illustration?
+Big MD planning to get it done, it's a big job though, maybe bigger than the bodywork so it might take a little while.
ne malzeme gerekli ☺ ?
Hi I live in the uk but I can't find anything called bog, are there any other names that it has, or other things that you recommend
Might be called builders putty? Bog is probably an Australian-ism but it's what it's called in the store.
ive started using plaster because i only saw your reply now, do you think i will have problems.? ( I plan on putting the car body filler over the plaster but still curious)
Whats the name of the fist song
Schlow Motion 1, from Epidemic Sound.
What is bog?
How is the song in the background called?
The songs are:
Schlow Motion 1 by David Bjoerk feat. Niklas Ahlström
Short Life 3 by Niklas Gustavsson
Climbing through Air 2 by Tomas Skyldeberg
All on Epidemic Sound
what 3d application do you use to disign and where can i find it?
I use Solidworks for everything. If you're in Australia, Intercad supply it - here's their website: www.intercad.com.au
How did u measure all that? (The excel)
The surface areas I was able to extract from Solidworks. I just copied that across to excel to create the materials list.
Interesting. Thnx!! I really needed the hurry. 💪🏻.
Casually, yesterday I was working on Autocad Inventor and I saw that after doing the piece there was a specific step to see the area and u could change it to any unit u may like.
Why were you polishing the mould so much? It was only meant to provide the base and shape for the fiber glass to be applied.
Tattwadarshi Guru he said he wanted to keep it as a souvenir
The more you polish the mould, the less you have to polish the finished product.
its so the fiber glass easily releases from the mold
But what song is it?
Starts at 3:38
Short Life 3 by Niklas Gustavsson.
thats great, shame the foam broke off with the fiber after all that work
It was, though as someone else mentioned I could have improved the quality of the surface to make the removal easier which may have saved the plug. More experience working with fiberglass would have helped greatly.
Well, that's it you always learn from your own work and experiences, thats what makes it beautiful.
Anyway, great stuff mate!
wouldnt the car be faster WITHOUT a shell? (one might think) - or are these regulations?
It's required by the regulations. I would expect the car to be quicker with the bodywork, without it aerodynamically it would not be so good.
i miss the mould...
I've got two doubts...1)What's the bog for?? 2)Why'd you paint the plug?
G'day, to answer your questions.
1) The bog is to provide a hard smooth surface on top of the foam, plus to provide a surface that can be shaped as needed. The foam and wood underneath aren't perfect, particularly the foam so the bog allowed me to build and sand until the shape was better.
2) I painted the plug to provide a smooth liquid tight surface to pull the molds from and again to try to achieve an even better surface.
Thanks man....You're the best!!
Bog = Bondo ?
for us American types
that was heartbreaking
you did those split plugs all wrong. you re not supposed to remove the parts of a split plug, nothing will fit properly afterwards. you only remove the medium that was making up the wall (those tapes you had made to create flanges). also your molds are too thin, needs more layers.
your buck should have ideally been a gloss finish, then it would have released easily.
benjamin collinson how would you say I should have done it then out of interest? I went down to a fine sandpaper, I think 1200 or 1600 then used the wax as well, at the time I wasn't sure what more I could have done. Would have been nice if it were easier for sure.
mdf is super super porous, so basic steps would have been two to three coats of high build primer, flat it back, two coats of regular primer, flat it back, 3 coats of your base coat, wet sand it back, 2 coats of lacquer, then wet sand it and buff it. it should at that point be near enough as glossy as you can get it.
Then to make the moulds you need to decide where the breaks will be and wax that body really well, then create either Plasticine or more permanent acrylic barriers to build the gel coat and fibreglass against. once you've laid on all your matting and resin then you'll need to add strengthening ribs to it in either mdf or acrylic so it doesn't flex when it is taken off the body and so you get more accurate moulds in the future.
all that said, mould making is notoriously straight forward as much as it is fickle.
good channel by the way, enjoying it.
Right, I probably ended up with near that much primer and base coat from the repeated coat/sand process but I didn't use any sort of lacquer, nor did I wet sand or buff. Good advice thanks, I'll keep it in mind if I go through something like this again. I paid the price on the moulds and I'm still paying the price right now on the bodywork for these issues with the plug. Doing my head in! But I'm getting there, it just would have been a much smoother process if I had more experience or knowledge before starting.
I dont even know how to do that spreadsheet
Why did you remove the mold sections individually ? You should have glassed all the panels and then removed them all at the same time..
What is "Bog" ? I would have used plaster, then polyurethane over it..
Paint the plug with 2 part epoxy and then wax it.. You must use the 2 part kind. Not the 1 part.. The mold will come right off.
"Bog" is builders bog, something we have in the hardware store in Aus - basically a chemically setting material that's easy to sand and shape. I can't say my way was the right way, only that it got the job done - I'd have benefitted from a better procedure for sure.
why not wrap the chassis and then apply layers of fiberglass. simple
Wouldn't get the shape I wanted.
Damn shame that you had to dump it.
Just a word of caution, the smell aside, epoxy resin is actually pretty nasty stuff. While it might not cause a chemical burn like vinylester, epoxy resins have extreme allergizing effect, some more potent than others, which when developed can cause severe scarring of the skin and makes working with epoxy a practical impossibility. Had the spill been of the more allergizing variants of epoxy systems, you'd not be working with epoxy ever again.
This was a key criteria for me when I selected the specific epoxy that I used for the bodywork pieces themselves. The one I selected is formulated to be as safe as possible to use. I made that decision after this job doing these moulds, I hated using the vinylester resin, it really was horrid stuff. Working under the PPE made the job difficult and I still found it left my hands burning even with the gloves on and no contact. Not keen to ever work with it again.
What the heck is "Bog" Sorry, I'm an American, and I'm guessing it's Bondo, but I've never heard the term, "Bog".
It's "builders bog", something you can get in any Australian hardware store but I guess not overseas. Basically a putty which you mix with a hardner and it sets into a solid that you can sand to shape.
Okay, in America it goes by a pretty common comercial name of "Bondo", a plastic body filler that you also add a hardner to.
Unfortunate that that happened to the plug! in future after you have finished sanding the plug and applied all the filler and the surface is level, use aluminium foil tape instead of the paint. apply the release agent on top of the foil and then apply the fibreglass. If the release agent does its job then the body will stay intact and nothing should pull off with the new mold. If in some parts not enough release agent was applied then the resin won't stick to the foil tape.
i don't know if you have seen this video before but I'll stick it in. watch the whole thing he explains the idea behind the tape thing better than me.
ua-cam.com/video/PNxZjOExd6g/v-deo.html
I've not seen that technique before but it does look like it would release easier than I found mine did. I would say though that the surface quality probably wouldn't be so good and would need more work due to the little crinkles in the aluminium foil tape. But considering my surface quality wasn't that great anyway it might have been a better compromise for me. Thanks for the heads up.
Horrendous music.