MORE WELDING AND FABRICATION VIDEOS HERE:ua-cam.com/play/PLfbf78fMz9Vol0uX2-GNc6mLi75zpqb5f.html LEARN HOW TO WELD VIDEOS HERE:ua-cam.com/video/ADa1I319GJ0/v-deo.html
You are correct using a gauge to check metal thickness. But when you graduate from years of welding, not so much. Keep up the nice videos for us all to see.
Thanks man. I'll be 50 in a couple months. My eyes don't calibrate materials as well as they did in my 20's especially with the increase of metric materials it can get a bit confusing for me on thinner materials. Not so much on thicker plate tho
@@BrandonLund You are correct when it comes to eye calibrations. Personally I plan not to get old but for some reason mother time has the upper hand with this matter. Stay safe and virus free too. Peace!!!!
Hey Brandon, Bruce Lund here. Old man who's been welding for 50 odd years. Good episode. Lotta good points. So on your recommended wire size for extension cords - you bet - 12 ga all the way for these Inverter Welders on 120v AC. I cut open on of those 120/240 plug adapters and measured the wire thickness. Came out at 0.072" which is between US 14 ga and US 12 ga. So running 12 for an extension cord is almost a must. I plan to splice on 25 ft of 12 ga and make my adapter into a dedicated welder feed extension cord. I also recommend going through all the Ground and Welding cable ends in the ground clamp, rod holder and the DINSE connectors. You'll usually see bare wire wrapped in a copper foil under the set screw/bolt. Over time these will corrode and work loose. I flood solder the ends of the wire inside the foil so it's a solid "bar" for the set screw/bolt to grab. Makes arc starting easier with solid connections.
That turned out well, you are right, thats the sort of job DIY folks have to tackle and it usually ends up a mess and they get discouraged, inverter set are a great help, plus of course youtube channels like yours. MIG fluxcore is also handy for jobs like that, but clean up tends to be more time consuming, plus more spatter usually. Using heavier duty cable is a good tip, I was laying out an extension cable once and my wife said "my, thats a very thick wire" made me check to see if the zipper on my jeans was open:)
Thanks for the compliment Jaques! I'm old school so 99% of my experience is on transformer based welders. Going from a transformer to an inverter like this one is like night and day as far as i'm concerned. The inverters are way easier to start and maintain an arc as far as i'm concerned. Time will tell I guess if electronics will win over a solid state transformer machine. My wife has never commented on me having thick wires :) Take care brother!
I like your rationale for using stick, made perfect sense to me. I have a couple of thinwall metal chairs that are broken in various spots. I'm going to take my time and try your methods. Another excellent video.
I just repaired a cloths drying rack. I’ve only welded a few things so far. The metal was super thin. I’ve have a mig with .035 so I used it at the lowest temperature. I don’t know how I didn’t blow through but I got it done. I impressed myself.
Thanks for sharing that Miller site...as a complete welding beginner, figuring out how to choose amperage has been a mystery for me. Also picking up a thickness gauge!
It is so unfortunate that so many people just starting out welding start with a stick welder and try to weld thin metal. It can be so hard! Despite that I have a little 120v everlast stick welder that I learned on and absolutely love it. Welding can be so addicting.
Right on Lucas! I would encourage anyone first learning to weld to hold off on welding thin material until you get proficient with thicker stuff. I'm very impressed with today's technology with how stable an arc can be on 120 volts. It's quite impressive!
First off, thank you. Second, congratulations on getting into welding! I've been welding for many years and I still learn new stuff. It's a lot of fun! Thanks for watching and I appreciate your support!
1/8" 308L if your using 308 or 304 stainless. Your amperage will be around 75-115. You can also use the online calculator link in the description for different metals and thicknesses. Hope this helps!
Ray B. 6011 is what I learned on. In my opinion if you can do a good job with 6011, everything else seems to come a little easier. Stay tuned next friday there will be another stick welding video
6011 if you keep getting stuck just bump your amps up a little bit. You’re prob a little cold. It’s a good all purpose rod. I use 6010 but it’s just what my Invertig 221 likes
Metabo. Yes I like metabo. They are metal specialists. Their drills have the impulse and really good for drilling hex screws into metal roofs. I have an assortment of drill attachments for polishing. I didn't think of this wire brush. I haven't got a Di grinder. It will be on the list for touching up internal welds. I guess I could get a drill attachment.
Can you stick weld a car exhaust? I have a stick welder, and I need to patch up some holes on my car's exhaust. I know a MIG welder would be better, but I can't afford to buy neither the self shielding or the gas shielding one. I'd just like my car quiet as before, it's a diesel and it's crazy loud.
It can be done but its very difficult. Checkout the video where I weld up the wheelbarrow. That is a little thinner than exhaust tubing and I give some tips to help you out
Excellent point Ricardo! Thank you! Fumes from paint and welding are very bad for your health. It's a good idea to wear a respirator (even if you are outside).
Really helpful -- THANKS! One question though...I'm trying this using the same basic technique, inverter settings/connections and rods, but 9 times out of 10 the rod STICKS! The work pieces are pretty clean and similar thickness, but "Stick City!" What am I likely doing wrong?
Does your welder have hot start? That could be the issue. This welder has a "hot start" feature, which temporarily boosts the amperage then decreases it once the arc is established. It also has "arc force" which also boosts the amperage in the event you have too tight of an arc gap. Both work together to help strike the arc and keep it lit without sticking.
@@BrandonLund Honestly do not know, so will dig up the specs and chime back in pretty soon. Maybe I should use 6013 rods for this welder on thin material? Are they easier to start, maybe?
I like these videos. They help me. I have a stick welder and want to learn how thin I can weld with stick and how low can I go on Amps and the best rods to use for thing metal
6011 is the best rod for any job, is very penetrant, you can tun it colder than it was made for, welds dirty metal, and unprepped metal so 6013 is not a good electrode guys it only has a good finish, 6011 is the best option
Hey brandon morning here in philippines. Do you have video for G. i tubular 1.2mm thick. My question is what is the right size and no. Of welding rod to do the job, i'm using 6013 2.0mm and lastec 88 rod when i was in saudi arabia, since i was now in philippines this lastek 88 is not available. Can you give me a sugestion what is the best welding rod to use for this thin G. I tubular. Thanks a lot if you reply big help for me and to other people watching your video.. Godbless
Your describing "voltage drop". As the length of a cord increases, its ability to carry that voltage decreases, which in turn increases the current / amps for the same given load.
@@kitten_processing_inc4415 what I said is correct. let me rephrase it. Lets say you had a 6 foot long 12 guage cord capable of carrying 20 amps and you plugged in an appliance that drew 19 amps. You have a 1 amp surplus. Now take that same appliance but make the cord 100 feet long. You no longer have that 1 amp surplus, in fact the appliance will draw considerably more amperage, So as I said in the video you have reduced your available amperage by using long undersized cords.
@@BrandonLund ok, I accept that's a legitimate way to look at it. The resistance causes the problem, the voltage drops across the cable because of the resistance which reduces the current carrying capacity of the circuit at given supply voltage. The really important thing is that the power available at the end of the cable is reduced because both the voltage and the current reaching the welder are reduced. Less power to the welder means it has to limit it's output current Aside from the fact that the power available to the welder is reduced I believe the power electronics of many welders won't operate well if the supply voltage has dropped out of a range, even if the power theoretically available would be adequate.... So voltage drop still seems like the big deal here to me, but I guess it is your video and it isn't incorrect..
This machine will only go to 110 amps when plugged into 110 power (which is plenty for most of the stuff you see me doing on the channel). You could multi-pass joints as this as you wanted which is very common in structural work. It will easily weld 1/8" in a single pass and you could keep making passes to weld 1" plate if you wanted, but 1/8" is very do-able on 120 volts. Just make sure your on a dedicated 20 amp outlet (nothing else plugged in or running off that circuit) or you will pop the breaker.
I'm trying to weld tin cans with an old dayton welder from the 50's...Ive got it on the lowest possible amperage and using a 6013 rod; 1/16th" on 110vac...I cant seem to get it lit, if i up the amps, it just burns right thru...any suggestions?
It sounds like your doing what you can. Your machine may not be able to go that low and still be able to light the rod. You might try bumping the amperage up just a bit and then doing real quick tack welds. That's where a hot start feature comes in handy
I was trying at 20 amps...bumped it to 35...and it got worse, soooo....after lots of practice, i finally was able to strike an arc on 20, but was still limited to the edge where the material is just a bit thicker, even then I had to move fast, anything longer than a blink of the eye, i was going through the material...it was awesome education though...I love the hot start idea, wished my machine could do it...thanks alot
@@jeffreychavey4161 You do not necessarily need lessons to make a repair like this. You could literally watch videos like mine and others and probably do a pretty decent job, however, if your able, a few night classes at your local school would probably help. In my opinion, nothing beats hands on instruction where someone can look over your shoulder and give you pointers on what your doing.
The prices fluctuate. If you click on my tool section in the description it will take you to my amazon store where I have this and all my other tools listed.
Going on your phone to the Miller site was awesome. Talk about saving a lot of time "guessing". Thanks for that. Has anyone asked about welding steel to aluminum? I have the exact same arc welder, and need to repair a gazebo. I discovered some of the box sections are mild-steel, and others are aluminum (magnet test). Any guidance or a video would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you very much. That calculator is a real time saver to get you close when using different materials. As far as welding the steel to aluminum, your best bet is going to probably be mechanical fasteners. If you can bolt or rivet a piece of steel to the aluminum, then you can weld the piece to the steel your trying to connect to. hopefully that made sense?
Warren, i use Miller welds calculator. I showed me using it in one of these videos and linked it in the description also. It gives you guidance on rod selection and amperage.
This one is a little thicker than muffler but goes into detail ua-cam.com/video/jj7uCglBFAc/v-deo.html This one is real thin metal ua-cam.com/video/eaQ3BHSArZQ/v-deo.html
Brandon, thanks for yet another welding video but I can't find the Miller Calculator page in your video. Is it in one of those UA-cam links in your "Pinned" comments? Thanks! Wakodahatchee Chris
@@BrandonLund Morn'n Brandon. You must have read my mind because that's exactly what I did after I posted that. Thanks again buddy! I watch quite a few UA-cam shop vids including welding. I'll be looking for more Brandon videos! ;-)
I cant explain...it's well beyond my knowledge but i can only assume it would be similar to the same idea as getting 120 volts from a 12 volt car battery and running power tools from it
A welders with an input of 120 volts and 15 amps gives 1800 watts . Its Output is lower voltage allowing an increase in amperage. I.E Welder outputs 17-45 volts. There is 1800 watts available. With an operating voltage of 17 you will get 105 amps.
only watched 1.5 minutes. You call that thin metal? that's thick! Thin metal is auto body floor pans and car door frames, chassis subframes on 70s-80s cars etc. That's what I want to see successfully welded with 1.6mm and 2mm electrodes.
I have other videos with 1 and 2 mm / 20 guage if your interested. Stick really isn't ideal for bodywork, however, it can be done and done sucessfully. I've had good luck using copper as a heat sink to help eliminate warping / blowout.
I have googled all over for this, myself. The thinnest metal Google wants to show me being stick welded is 14 gauge or about 75 thousandths. MIG, I find videos doing body panels of 18 gauge or about 48 thousandths. The sheet metal I have been welding is 16 thousandths! I don't even know what gauge that is. I am a noob, but I have gotten it to work fairly ok. Lap joints and spot welds, only. No butts or continuous bead. And I still get the inevitable blow through on occasion. What works for me is clamp next to where I will spot weld, grind a small slot-shaped crater through the top sheet and slightly grazing into the bottom sheet with a small cutoff disc. Heat up a 1/16" 6013 on a piece of scrap, then bring it to the spot. As soon as it sparks, jam it down until it just about touches the metal, and immediately withdraw. Amperage as low as it will burn, which is about 17A on my machine, DCEN. If you were restoring a car, you would need a lot of Bondo, lol. To repair a tank, it would take forever to connect the beads to make it gas/liquid tight and you would maybe need a plug welding heatsink jig to fix the holes. :) (I haven't figured out how to plug holes in metal this thin, yet.) The other major problem beside holes is warpage. If the spot doesn't take on the first try, the metal warps and separates and the flux dust gets in there. If you can't hammer it flat against an anvil, I have very little chance to get it to connect on further attempts.
@@mildyproductive9726 thin metal is very difficult to weld with stick as you have figured out. Another good trick is to keep a very steep drag angle and keep your pieces clamped tight when doing lap joints. Any gap will cause it to burn out. If you can get a piece of copper over the joint on the backside, it will act as a heat sink and help with blow through. I'll have some more thin metal videos out soon.
@@BrandonLund Thanks for the tips! I look forward to the new vids. So far I have managed to make some useful guards/covers with the 16 mil sheet and even managed to tack this sheet to angle iron without completely nuking it. But I have another repair/project that involves (re)welding a piece of rebar to the edge of a 28 mil sheet, where it broke. If you can do something like that with stick, it might make a good video?
This is just typical low carbon steel and you can use which ever readily available process you choose. As far as electrodes, you are trying to weld 1" tube and 1.6 mm tube?
Well done man 👍🏻, appreciate all usefull information you have provided, i am a big fan of yours and your simple yet practical and useful information, i believe the expeiance itself rather than the calculator which depends on one's project accomplished, i am planning to weld a 10mm nut on top of a small philips machien nail, do you have any recommendation?! Can you make a vido on this topic?! mainipulating hard to find specific nails and bolts using arc welding?!
@Mahmoud Omar Thanks man I appreciate your support! What you are trying to do is very difficult. Welding nuts in general can be very difficult because there is very little surface area and what remains heats up immediately to cherry red. It's very easy to blow out the metal when this happens. This takes practice but it can be done. Figure out what you think you need for amperage then go less. This will help prevent blowout. You might find you have to start and stop a couple times to let the nut cool down so you don't have a blow out. Good luck brother and report back!
Honestly, with this welder on 120v vs 240v I cant tell the difference. It welds EXACTLY the same. However, the welder maxes out at around 130 if I remember correctly when it's on 120.
@@warrwarrwarrwarr If I remember correctly, when its maxed out on 120v it will trip out a 20 amp breaker, but not immediately. I can weld for around 30 seconds when its maxed out before it trips. My plasma cutter does the same thing when maxed out on 120v
I have not used that specific machine, but yes you can run 3/32" 6011 with that machine. You will be pretty close to maxed out though. That rod runs around 75 Amps. 6011 rods can be used on ac or dc machines.
We don't have the electrodes you have. I bought some high strength low hydration welding sticks. They take more to strike. Once you strike it really makes a nice run.
Brandon Lund I had to make clamps for the metabo track fence. You can run the metabo cold cut saw along it. I just found out Milwaukee brought out the over 8 in cordless cold cut saw. Anyway I cut a small section of 7 mm angle iron and ran through the belt sander so it would fit in the track. I cut off the end of a small clamp and proceeded to weld. I didn't take enough steel off so grinded the weld to make it fit. Only thing it lost its strength and failed. I then made sure I had enough weld for the next one and used low hydration stick. Oh my goodness they are nice and strong. I agree I won't go back to using mild steel rod even for jobs that don't require it. I can polish frames so it's all filled. I had trouble doing this with the other rods. There would be holes and cleaning up to redo didn't really achieve the results I was after. Sorry for taking so long trying to explain something. The rods leave a thin later sort of dark. The brand is Bossweld. My goodness I was wrong these are 7016 low hydration tc 16 welding electrodes. Approval grade 3 h10.
Thanks buddy! As I was telling another commenter, 99% of my experience is on transformer based welders, so these little inverter based units really impress me. Im super impressed how well this unit will light a rod and maintain an arc. I really push it's capabilities in next weeks video when I attempt to weld 16 gauge sheet metal with it!
Gordon Reiher I felt fairly comfortable that anything more than the lowest setting would possibly burn through so I started low to see what kind of penetration it had
Inverter welders don't need a full 120V supply to deliver the dialed output. The circuitry adapts to any input voltage like a laptop charger. That said... you won't get the full 2000W out of a thin crappy extension cord, so you won't get to your welder's maximum rated power; a couple hundred watts will be wasted as heat. With a rectifier or AC welder on a cheap cord you will need to increase the dial setting to get the amperage you want.
They are actually 2 different things. Hot start is just a quick increase in voltage when the arc is started and arc force is a temporary increase in voltage to prevent the arc from being extinguished if the arc gap gets too close.
Mr Jay White the best process for a bike frame would be tig, but if you don't have access to tig, you could do it with stick but it will be difficult. I have a video about welding sheet metal that might be helpful. If you have access to a spare bicycle, I would do a bunch of practicing first to get your amperage dialed in.
im just a hobbyist, so all i have is a 200amp stick welder i have been teaching myself with. i think its best to learn welding the hard way anyway, then move on to the easier methods when i go take a proper welding course. not too thrilled at the idea of stick welding .9mm tubes of 4140 either, due to how likely it is il just blow holes in the stuff. so im just getting the best information i can before trying it. at the moment im trying to figure out if i need 6011 or 7018 rods. this project is my next self teaching course, so i can move on from making garden decorations out of scrap.
People get hung up on extension cords but don’t think anything about the distance the wire runs inside their house from the garage to the main panel. As long as the extension is the same as the gauge of the wire in the circuit, your good (within reason.) I very much doubt your house wiring is 12 gauge.
@T3glider you make a very good point. On a side note, we don't have any #14 wiring in our house. It's all #12 for the lights and outlets. Thats very common in our area for new construction.
Can you please let me know if it's okay to hold the electrode while welding? Do I need some special kind of gloves for it or if leather will work okay? Is there any risk of electric shock?
So the correct answer is there is always that risk of electrocution when welding. Then there is what actually happens. I routinely brace the rod (especially on thin rods that bounce around) and I wear just standard leather welding gloves. Been doing it for years.
Oxy Fuel welding is probably my favorite... it takes a fairly high degree of skill and practice to get a decent looking weld. I got my crash coarse about 35 years ago welding in floor pans. It then progressed into custom body work / chopped tops and lead work. I still have all my gear but I have pretty much replaced it all with tig brazing for the most part.
Awesome. Thanks for responding. I'm having a little problems with Oxy-Acetylene T Joints. I've looked all over youtube for Oxy-Fuel welding T Joints and there's only a couple vids but they're not up close or not in detail or I can't see what the person is doing. So I figured I'd ask a bunch of UA-cam welders to see if they could possibly upload a video. :D
Mercer Frey every electrode has a recommended amperage rating as a starting point. It’s usually printed on the label. Eventually with experience and time, the beginner welder will remember what rod runs with what amperage.
MORE WELDING AND FABRICATION VIDEOS HERE:ua-cam.com/play/PLfbf78fMz9Vol0uX2-GNc6mLi75zpqb5f.html
LEARN HOW TO WELD VIDEOS HERE:ua-cam.com/video/ADa1I319GJ0/v-deo.html
You are correct using a gauge to check metal thickness. But when you graduate from years of welding, not so much. Keep up the nice videos for us all to see.
Thanks man. I'll be 50 in a couple months. My eyes don't calibrate materials as well as they did in my 20's especially with the increase of metric materials it can get a bit confusing for me on thinner materials. Not so much on thicker plate tho
@@BrandonLund You are correct when it comes to eye calibrations. Personally I plan not to get old but for some reason mother time has the upper hand with this matter. Stay safe and virus free too. Peace!!!!
Hey Brandon, Bruce Lund here. Old man who's been welding for 50 odd years. Good episode. Lotta good points.
So on your recommended wire size for extension cords - you bet - 12 ga all the way for these Inverter Welders on 120v AC. I cut open on of those 120/240 plug adapters and measured the wire thickness. Came out at 0.072" which is between US 14 ga and US 12 ga. So running 12 for an extension cord is almost a must. I plan to splice on 25 ft of 12 ga and make my adapter into a dedicated welder feed extension cord.
I also recommend going through all the Ground and Welding cable ends in the ground clamp, rod holder and the DINSE connectors. You'll usually see bare wire wrapped in a copper foil under the set screw/bolt. Over time these will corrode and work loose. I flood solder the ends of the wire inside the foil so it's a solid "bar" for the set screw/bolt to grab. Makes arc starting easier with solid connections.
@ Broc Luno great name buddy and even better great advise! This is gold! Thank you for sharing!
That turned out well, you are right, thats the sort of job DIY folks have to tackle and it usually ends up a mess and they get discouraged, inverter set are a great help, plus of course youtube channels like yours. MIG fluxcore is also handy for jobs like that, but clean up tends to be more time consuming, plus more spatter usually. Using heavier duty cable is a good tip, I was laying out an extension cable once and my wife said "my, thats a very thick wire" made me check to see if the zipper on my jeans was open:)
Thanks for the compliment Jaques! I'm old school so 99% of my experience is on transformer based welders. Going from a transformer to an inverter like this one is like night and day as far as i'm concerned. The inverters are way easier to start and maintain an arc as far as i'm concerned. Time will tell I guess if electronics will win over a solid state transformer machine. My wife has never commented on me having thick wires :) Take care brother!
I like your rationale for using stick, made perfect sense to me. I have a couple of thinwall metal chairs that are broken in various spots. I'm going to take my time and try your methods. Another excellent video.
Right on! Thanks man!
I just repaired a cloths drying rack. I’ve only welded a few things so far. The metal was super thin. I’ve have a mig with .035 so I used it at the lowest temperature. I don’t know how I didn’t blow through but I got it done. I impressed myself.
Nice job Gene Miller! It's a great feeling when you take something that doesn't work and get it working again! Well done brother!
Thanks for sharing that Miller site...as a complete welding beginner, figuring out how to choose amperage has been a mystery for me. Also picking up a thickness gauge!
Glad I could help!
I hear you on the amp part . . . the thickness gauge is great!
Neat little tool!
It is so unfortunate that so many people just starting out welding start with a stick welder and try to weld thin metal. It can be so hard! Despite that I have a little 120v everlast stick welder that I learned on and absolutely love it. Welding can be so addicting.
Right on Lucas! I would encourage anyone first learning to weld to hold off on welding thin material until you get proficient with thicker stuff. I'm very impressed with today's technology with how stable an arc can be on 120 volts. It's quite impressive!
Thank you for saving the deck furniture!! You are the BEST!!
So far the most useful video Ive seen for beginners like me
Thank you very much!
Thanks for walking us through your project, your settings, and what works for you. Much appreciated and most helpful
Thank you! I'm glad I could help!
Awesome video. I just picked up a welder for the very first time tonight on some thin mild steel. This helped.
First off, thank you. Second, congratulations on getting into welding! I've been welding for many years and I still learn new stuff. It's a lot of fun! Thanks for watching and I appreciate your support!
@@BrandonLund Thanks for the reply, Brandon! Subscribed! I am enjoying your content tremendously.
@@AnonYmous-cf2ci Thank you, I appreciate your support!
I am planning to make a table with 1.4 mm thick SS square tubing. what amp setting should I use and what electrodes do you suggest?
1/8" 308L if your using 308 or 304 stainless. Your amperage will be around 75-115. You can also use the online calculator link in the description for different metals and thicknesses. Hope this helps!
@@BrandonLund Thanks a lot, Sir. Great help. I will try it out and let you know.
@@VIDEOEPPO good luck and thanks for your support! You can always post pics to my Facebook page also :)
Question: at 6:09 measured the thickness of material 1/8" thick of mild steel. Did this material thickness data affect any settings of the welder?
When stick welding, the material thickness is only needed to guage electrode size.
I never knew about using an extension cord would reduce the power and I have tripped the electric a few times, must be why. thanks for the tips 👍
Glad to help
Great video for a learner (me!) Best vid I've seen for a learner with much more detail that others usually skip over. All the best from Australia.
Thank you very much!
@海鷗 What is all this nonsense about the government? What does any of this have to do with this video?
Thank you , it help me a lot for beginner
Excellent! I'm glad I was able to help!
Nice video! I find 6011 likes to get stuck but I have been using it more.. I would love to see more stick welding videos! Thanks!
Ray B. 6011 is what I learned on. In my opinion if you can do a good job with 6011, everything else seems to come a little easier. Stay tuned next friday there will be another stick welding video
6011 if you keep getting stuck just bump your amps up a little bit. You’re prob a little cold. It’s a good all purpose rod. I use 6010 but it’s just what my Invertig 221 likes
75. Wow great detail. Years ago I was looking for a chart for different welding materials.
Great video I got 3 minutes left.
Thanks Ronald much appreciated!
Brandon, very good videos. Greetings from Argentina, I continue with my little knowledge of the language.
Thank you very much! Cheers!
Metabo. Yes I like metabo. They are metal specialists. Their drills have the impulse and really good for drilling hex screws into metal roofs.
I have an assortment of drill attachments for polishing. I didn't think of this wire brush.
I haven't got a Di grinder. It will be on the list for touching up internal welds. I guess I could get a drill attachment.
Wow, real world example. I just subscribed based off this video. Thank you.
Thank you! I appreciate your support!
Good stuff...well presented! It may have been just me but there appears to be a significant difference in volume on the voice overs.
D Rickard thank you...yes I’m having some equipment issues. I should have it resolved for upcoming episodes
Can you stick weld a car exhaust? I have a stick welder, and I need to patch up some holes on my car's exhaust. I know a MIG welder would be better, but I can't afford to buy neither the self shielding or the gas shielding one. I'd just like my car quiet as before, it's a diesel and it's crazy loud.
It can be done but its very difficult. Checkout the video where I weld up the wheelbarrow. That is a little thinner than exhaust tubing and I give some tips to help you out
@@BrandonLund Thank you for the reply! I'll check it out.
Great job. I believe I’ll use the same rod for my 77 camaro fender. I was using something more strong but was burning thru .
Good luck man!
Thanks for the knowledge & for explaining it in simple terms.
You bet! Thanks!
Welding is such an awesome thing! I’m using a small inverter as well max 160 amps
@Z Szilagyi you can do a lot with 160 amps! 😁
Practical, working video. Great job!
Thank you!
Thank you for your video. I'm going to take what I've learned here and try with my everlast stick welder.
Right on! I'm glad I could help! How are you liking the everlast?
Thanks for shareing. Caution the audience on the high levels of toxic produced by burning paint. Other than that, your video is great!
Excellent point Ricardo! Thank you! Fumes from paint and welding are very bad for your health. It's a good idea to wear a respirator (even if you are outside).
An electric fan does wonders here. Unlike TIG and MIG, stick doesn't mind much that you use a fan to blow away the smoke.
@antilogism spot on! 👌
Really helpful -- THANKS! One question though...I'm trying this using the same basic technique, inverter settings/connections and rods, but 9 times out of 10 the rod STICKS! The work pieces are pretty clean and similar thickness, but "Stick City!" What am I likely doing wrong?
Does your welder have hot start? That could be the issue. This welder has a "hot start" feature, which temporarily boosts the amperage then decreases it once the arc is established. It also has "arc force" which also boosts the amperage in the event you have too tight of an arc gap. Both work together to help strike the arc and keep it lit without sticking.
@@BrandonLund Honestly do not know, so will dig up the specs and chime back in pretty soon. Maybe I should use 6013 rods for this welder on thin material? Are they easier to start, maybe?
@@AerialLensVideo yes 6013 is rasy to start
@@terryrafter4116 Yes. that was the answer, plus holding the rod down close to the work to keep it steady. Thanks.
Great video, thank you for posting it. I especially like the Miller app references, this app will be really useful to me.
Your welcome! Glad I could help! I appreciate your support!
What is the input amperage? Most home circuits are 20 to 30 am.
20 amps when it's plugged into 120v and 30 when plugged into 240v
Wow..! Nice firewoods at the back! Btw i've learned something new here! Thanks a lot !
Thanks man! Much appreciated!
Nice house design as well..loved the flowers.!
Awesome video. Thanks. Great find yall have there.
Thanks and I appreciate your comment and support
Great video dude! Good real world welding in the field.
Thanks man! Much apreciated!
I like these videos. They help me. I have a stick welder and want to learn how thin I can weld with stick and how low can I go on Amps and the best rods to use for thing metal
Thanks man! Check out the beginner welding series playlist. I have one video where I weld 22 guage with stick :)
Use a whipping motion. At the lowest amps you can weld on whatever you're welding.
6011 is the best rod for any job, is very penetrant, you can tun it colder than it was made for, welds dirty metal, and unprepped metal so 6013 is not a good electrode guys it only has a good finish, 6011 is the best option
@海鷗 whaaat
Hey brandon morning here in philippines. Do you have video for G. i tubular 1.2mm thick. My question is what is the right size and no. Of welding rod to do the job, i'm using 6013 2.0mm and lastec 88 rod when i was in saudi arabia, since i was now in philippines this lastek 88 is not available. Can you give me a sugestion what is the best welding rod to use for this thin G. I tubular. Thanks a lot if you reply big help for me and to other people watching your video.. Godbless
Hey Hailey 6013 is going to be your best. Maybe find a smaller diameter if it's available? 1/16" is the smallest in the states. Run it DC negative
I believe the extension cord reduces the available voltage, not the current (amps).
Your describing "voltage drop". As the length of a cord increases, its ability to carry that voltage decreases, which in turn increases the current / amps for the same given load.
@@BrandonLund yes I am. Your video refers to a reduction in available amperage when using a long cord, which would be incorrect.
@@kitten_processing_inc4415 what I said is correct. let me rephrase it. Lets say you had a 6 foot long 12 guage cord capable of carrying 20 amps and you plugged in an appliance that drew 19 amps. You have a 1 amp surplus. Now take that same appliance but make the cord 100 feet long. You no longer have that 1 amp surplus, in fact the appliance will draw considerably more amperage, So as I said in the video you have reduced your available amperage by using long undersized cords.
@@BrandonLund ok, I accept that's a legitimate way to look at it. The resistance causes the problem, the voltage drops across the cable because of the resistance which reduces the current carrying capacity of the circuit at given supply voltage. The really important thing is that the power available at the end of the cable is reduced because both the voltage and the current reaching the welder are reduced. Less power to the welder means it has to limit it's output current Aside from the fact that the power available to the welder is reduced I believe the power electronics of many welders won't operate well if the supply voltage has dropped out of a range, even if the power theoretically available would be adequate.... So voltage drop still seems like the big deal here to me, but I guess it is your video and it isn't incorrect..
super helpful and practical
Thank you! 🙂
Thanks Brandon.
Thanks!
What's the thickest metal this unit can weld when on 110 power
1/4 of an inch I believe so if I'm not wrong
This machine will only go to 110 amps when plugged into 110 power (which is plenty for most of the stuff you see me doing on the channel). You could multi-pass joints as this as you wanted which is very common in structural work. It will easily weld 1/8" in a single pass and you could keep making passes to weld 1" plate if you wanted, but 1/8" is very do-able on 120 volts. Just make sure your on a dedicated 20 amp outlet (nothing else plugged in or running off that circuit) or you will pop the breaker.
What if you want to stick weld 6mm angle iron into the trunk of a car? Suggestions?
1/16" 6013 would be a good choice 👌
I'm trying to weld tin cans with an old dayton welder from the 50's...Ive got it on the lowest possible amperage and using a 6013 rod; 1/16th" on 110vac...I cant seem to get it lit, if i up the amps, it just burns right thru...any suggestions?
It sounds like your doing what you can. Your machine may not be able to go that low and still be able to light the rod. You might try bumping the amperage up just a bit and then doing real quick tack welds. That's where a hot start feature comes in handy
I was trying at 20 amps...bumped it to 35...and it got worse, soooo....after lots of practice, i finally was able to strike an arc on 20, but was still limited to the edge where the material is just a bit thicker, even then I had to move fast, anything longer than a blink of the eye, i was going through the material...it was awesome education though...I love the hot start idea, wished my machine could do it...thanks alot
@@pathfinder10148 your welcome ! 😁
Thanks! Do you recommend welding lessons before doing a job in this league? I’m new to this
@@jeffreychavey4161 You do not necessarily need lessons to make a repair like this. You could literally watch videos like mine and others and probably do a pretty decent job, however, if your able, a few night classes at your local school would probably help. In my opinion, nothing beats hands on instruction where someone can look over your shoulder and give you pointers on what your doing.
How much is the inverter.🤔🤔 its just owesome
The prices fluctuate. If you click on my tool section in the description it will take you to my amazon store where I have this and all my other tools listed.
Going on your phone to the Miller site was awesome. Talk about saving a lot of time "guessing". Thanks for that.
Has anyone asked about welding steel to aluminum? I have the exact same arc welder, and need to repair a gazebo. I discovered some of the box sections are mild-steel, and others are aluminum (magnet test). Any guidance or a video would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you very much. That calculator is a real time saver to get you close when using different materials. As far as welding the steel to aluminum, your best bet is going to probably be mechanical fasteners. If you can bolt or rivet a piece of steel to the aluminum, then you can weld the piece to the steel your trying to connect to. hopefully that made sense?
How did you come choose the E6011? What's a good outline for this for a beginner?
Warren, i use Miller welds calculator. I showed me using it in one of these videos and linked it in the description also. It gives you guidance on rod selection and amperage.
Hi Brandon. What are your thoughts on 7014?
They are a nice general purpose rods that lays down some nice looking beads.
Did you have more thin project bro like car muffler?
This one is a little thicker than muffler but goes into detail ua-cam.com/video/jj7uCglBFAc/v-deo.html
This one is real thin metal ua-cam.com/video/eaQ3BHSArZQ/v-deo.html
Brandon, thanks for yet another welding video but I can't find the Miller Calculator page in your video. Is it in one of those UA-cam links in your "Pinned" comments? Thanks!
Wakodahatchee Chris
Hey Chris. Try just searching it on google. That's what I've been doing lately then I don't have to have the app installed.
@@BrandonLund Morn'n Brandon. You must have read my mind because that's exactly what I did after I posted that. Thanks again buddy! I watch quite a few UA-cam shop vids including welding. I'll be looking for more Brandon videos! ;-)
Thanks buddy I appreciate your support!
Thanks great video going to put my cheap harbor freight stick welder to use.
Right on! Glad I could help!
You getting 50 amps from 120volts ? Can you plz explain
I cant explain...it's well beyond my knowledge but i can only assume it would be similar to the same idea as getting 120 volts from a 12 volt car battery and running power tools from it
A welders with an input of 120 volts and 15 amps gives 1800 watts . Its Output is lower voltage allowing an increase in amperage. I.E Welder outputs 17-45 volts. There is 1800 watts available. With an operating voltage of 17 you will get 105 amps.
Nice! Thank you!
only watched 1.5 minutes. You call that thin metal? that's thick! Thin metal is auto body floor pans and car door frames, chassis subframes on 70s-80s cars etc. That's what I want to see successfully welded with 1.6mm and 2mm electrodes.
I have other videos with 1 and 2 mm / 20 guage if your interested. Stick really isn't ideal for bodywork, however, it can be done and done sucessfully. I've had good luck using copper as a heat sink to help eliminate warping / blowout.
I have googled all over for this, myself. The thinnest metal Google wants to show me being stick welded is 14 gauge or about 75 thousandths. MIG, I find videos doing body panels of 18 gauge or about 48 thousandths.
The sheet metal I have been welding is 16 thousandths! I don't even know what gauge that is. I am a noob, but I have gotten it to work fairly ok. Lap joints and spot welds, only. No butts or continuous bead. And I still get the inevitable blow through on occasion. What works for me is clamp next to where I will spot weld, grind a small slot-shaped crater through the top sheet and slightly grazing into the bottom sheet with a small cutoff disc. Heat up a 1/16" 6013 on a piece of scrap, then bring it to the spot. As soon as it sparks, jam it down until it just about touches the metal, and immediately withdraw. Amperage as low as it will burn, which is about 17A on my machine, DCEN. If you were restoring a car, you would need a lot of Bondo, lol. To repair a tank, it would take forever to connect the beads to make it gas/liquid tight and you would maybe need a plug welding heatsink jig to fix the holes. :) (I haven't figured out how to plug holes in metal this thin, yet.)
The other major problem beside holes is warpage. If the spot doesn't take on the first try, the metal warps and separates and the flux dust gets in there. If you can't hammer it flat against an anvil, I have very little chance to get it to connect on further attempts.
@@mildyproductive9726 thin metal is very difficult to weld with stick as you have figured out. Another good trick is to keep a very steep drag angle and keep your pieces clamped tight when doing lap joints. Any gap will cause it to burn out. If you can get a piece of copper over the joint on the backside, it will act as a heat sink and help with blow through. I'll have some more thin metal videos out soon.
@@BrandonLund Thanks for the tips! I look forward to the new vids. So far I have managed to make some useful guards/covers with the 16 mil sheet and even managed to tack this sheet to angle iron without completely nuking it. But I have another repair/project that involves (re)welding a piece of rebar to the edge of a 28 mil sheet, where it broke. If you can do something like that with stick, it might make a good video?
Weld two aluminum cans together 😎
Nice done!!! Thanks 😊 🙏
Thanks Jose!
Very cool thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
would running 75 amp work on a 15 amp breaker
I think you be close to tripping the breaker.
Very nice! 😊
Thanks buddy!
Great info man ... many thanks
Thanks you for your kind words and support!
Thank you for information about the welding machine.iv'e learn about the extension of the wire.
Thanks Edgar glad I could help!
What electrodes need to be used for AISI 1018 (ø 1" and 1.6 mm thick ) tubes ??? and other parameters. Please help me figure out
This is just typical low carbon steel and you can use which ever readily available process you choose. As far as electrodes, you are trying to weld 1" tube and 1.6 mm tube?
What the difference between putting it at 75 and the max
It would likely blow through
Thanks sir. Good information.
Thanks Wade and your welcome sir :)
That worked great on the 120 v , ? Time , does it hurt your eyes to watch the ark flash in your videos ? I know it's not a lot of time in the videos ?
I couldn't tell the difference between 120 and 240. Just as smooth. Arc flash, no.
Good tips and impressive infos to be shared. Thank you.
Thanks Abdul!
I enjoyed that...thanks for showing the way...more power!
Thank you! 🙏😁
How many amps can you get out of a 120v outlet?
I think the welder automatically stops at 90 amps output while on 120. I run mine occasionally on 120 volt and have yet to trip the breaker.
@@BrandonLund thank you! Ill just have to try.
Anytime! Glad I could help
Well done man 👍🏻, appreciate all usefull information you have provided, i am a big fan of yours and your simple yet practical and useful information, i believe the expeiance itself rather than the calculator which depends on one's project accomplished, i am planning to weld a 10mm nut on top of a small philips machien nail, do you have any recommendation?! Can you make a vido on this topic?! mainipulating hard to find specific nails and bolts using arc welding?!
@Mahmoud Omar Thanks man I appreciate your support! What you are trying to do is very difficult. Welding nuts in general can be very difficult because there is very little surface area and what remains heats up immediately to cherry red. It's very easy to blow out the metal when this happens. This takes practice but it can be done. Figure out what you think you need for amperage then go less. This will help prevent blowout. You might find you have to start and stop a couple times to let the nut cool down so you don't have a blow out. Good luck brother and report back!
You're much better off using silver solder with MAPP gas.
Even better! 👍💯
@@BrandonLund Thank you!
Be well.
Same to you 👍 @usernamememykel
Very informative. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you!
How well does a stick welder do for a 120v 20 amp breaker? I've been told it's useless.
Honestly, with this welder on 120v vs 240v I cant tell the difference. It welds EXACTLY the same. However, the welder maxes out at around 130 if I remember correctly when it's on 120.
@@BrandonLund No tripping of the breaker??
@@warrwarrwarrwarr If I remember correctly, when its maxed out on 120v it will trip out a 20 amp breaker, but not immediately. I can weld for around 30 seconds when its maxed out before it trips. My plasma cutter does the same thing when maxed out on 120v
@@BrandonLund Thanks!
Could I run 3/32 6011 rods on a Clark 110 v. machine: their E-95 model ? [the machine maxes out at 90 amps, A/c only.]
I have not used that specific machine, but yes you can run 3/32" 6011 with that machine. You will be pretty close to maxed out though. That rod runs around 75 Amps. 6011 rods can be used on ac or dc machines.
Thanks Brandon.
Is it a rule to have the rode same size as the sheet metal, like you used 1/8?
That will get you close for most work.
@@BrandonLund what if i want to weld 27mm pipe 2.4mm with 2mm sheet , what rode side and type should i use?
Great vid ! Cheers from Australia 😊
Thanks brother! I appreciate your support!
We don't have the electrodes you have. I bought some high strength low hydration welding sticks. They take more to strike. Once you strike it really makes a nice run.
I love low hydrogen rods!
Brandon Lund
I had to make clamps for the metabo track fence. You can run the metabo cold cut saw along it. I just found out Milwaukee brought out the over 8 in cordless cold cut saw. Anyway I cut a small section of 7 mm angle iron and ran through the belt sander so it would fit in the track. I cut off the end of a small clamp and proceeded to weld. I didn't take enough steel off so grinded the weld to make it fit. Only thing it lost its strength and failed. I then made sure I had enough weld for the next one and used low hydration stick. Oh my goodness they are nice and strong.
I agree I won't go back to using mild steel rod even for jobs that don't require it.
I can polish frames so it's all filled. I had trouble doing this with the other rods. There would be holes and cleaning up to redo didn't really achieve the results I was after.
Sorry for taking so long trying to explain something. The rods leave a thin later sort of dark. The brand is Bossweld. My goodness I was wrong these are 7016 low hydration tc 16 welding electrodes. Approval grade 3 h10.
@@ron1martens 7018 run very much the same with that same glassy tan finish. I have never heard of Bossweld but I will check it out. Thanks! :)
Brandon Lund I think Melbourne Australia. Although outsourced made in Thailand. Thanks for the reply. Appreciated.
Thank you for the great information on this video
I'm glad I could help!
Great job
Thanks Roger! 👍
@@BrandonLund you are very welcome my friend
The great vedeo, 😎😎😘😘
Thanks!
Great vid mate chears..
Thanks for the miller calculator, I actually found they have an app as well... Another greatful Aussie
Glad I could help buddy and thanks for the support! Cheers
Dam that dude has a nice wood pile, don't tell but I'm going to sneak over his house about 2am and load up.
😟😟😟🤣🤣🤣
I will there with handcuffs too!!!!!!!!!!!!
Another great video. I love how you find these little stick welder and love them.
Thanks buddy! As I was telling another commenter, 99% of my experience is on transformer based welders, so these little inverter based units really impress me. Im super impressed how well this unit will light a rod and maintain an arc. I really push it's capabilities in next weeks video when I attempt to weld 16 gauge sheet metal with it!
Great video you made my welder decision easier I was looking at a mig but if that welder can do light material fantastic thanks 🤠👍
Your welcome! Glad I could help and I appreciate your support.
THANKS!
Just out of curiosity, why did you elect to start on the coldest setting?
Gordon Reiher I felt fairly comfortable that anything more than the lowest setting would possibly burn through so I started low to see what kind of penetration it had
be nice to see thinner metal like 1mm 1.5mm and 2mm. i dont know what the conversion is sorry.
Thanks buddy! Here is some 1 and 2 mm welding :) ua-cam.com/video/eaQ3BHSArZQ/v-deo.html
sir, nice video for us beginners, how about 6013, is it advisable to use on thin materials also and what is the advisable ampere? thank and godbless
Thank you! Here is a 6013 video you might find helpful! ua-cam.com/video/eaQ3BHSArZQ/v-deo.html
@@BrandonLund thanks for the link and i watch it
@@arsenioegoytorogiguinat2826 Your welcome :)
I would like a reference for the mask you use.
@Jean Pierre Daviau yes sir, here you go amzn.to/2Hss3Vk
Inverter welders don't need a full 120V supply to deliver the dialed output. The circuitry adapts to any input voltage like a laptop charger. That said... you won't get the full 2000W out of a thin crappy extension cord, so you won't get to your welder's maximum rated power; a couple hundred watts will be wasted as heat. With a rectifier or AC welder on a cheap cord you will need to increase the dial setting to get the amperage you want.
Excellent point and great comment. Thank you! 👍 👊🙏
Nic vid thanks, I need to learn some basic welding.
Thank you! Glad I could help :)
What he refers to as "arc force" is hot start
They are actually 2 different things. Hot start is just a quick increase in voltage when the arc is started and arc force is a temporary increase in voltage to prevent the arc from being extinguished if the arc gap gets too close.
@@BrandonLund oh, maybe I wasn't listening, sounded like you were describing hot start and not arc force, hence my comment, my bad!
No worries...:)
Great stuff!
Thanks simon!
Your really good. Thankyou for your help! 😁
Zechariah thank you very much!
Nice.
Thank you very much!
so this would be how to weld up a steel bike frame?
Mr Jay White the best process for a bike frame would be tig, but if you don't have access to tig, you could do it with stick but it will be difficult. I have a video about welding sheet metal that might be helpful. If you have access to a spare bicycle, I would do a bunch of practicing first to get your amperage dialed in.
im just a hobbyist, so all i have is a 200amp stick welder i have been teaching myself with. i think its best to learn welding the hard way anyway, then move on to the easier methods when i go take a proper welding course.
not too thrilled at the idea of stick welding .9mm tubes of 4140 either, due to how likely it is il just blow holes in the stuff. so im just getting the best information i can before trying it. at the moment im trying to figure out if i need 6011 or 7018 rods.
this project is my next self teaching course, so i can move on from making garden decorations out of scrap.
People get hung up on extension cords but don’t think anything about the distance the wire runs inside their house from the garage to the main panel. As long as the extension is the same as the gauge of the wire in the circuit, your good (within reason.) I very much doubt your house wiring is 12 gauge.
@T3glider you make a very good point. On a side note, we don't have any #14 wiring in our house. It's all #12 for the lights and outlets. Thats very common in our area for new construction.
Can you please let me know if it's okay to hold the electrode while welding? Do I need some special kind of gloves for it or if leather will work okay? Is there any risk of electric shock?
So the correct answer is there is always that risk of electrocution when welding. Then there is what actually happens. I routinely brace the rod (especially on thin rods that bounce around) and I wear just standard leather welding gloves. Been doing it for years.
Don't use wet gloves it'll shock the crap out of you
I want to see how to Oxy Acetylene weld T Joints.
Oxy Fuel welding is probably my favorite... it takes a fairly high degree of skill and practice to get a decent looking weld. I got my crash coarse about 35 years ago welding in floor pans. It then progressed into custom body work / chopped tops and lead work. I still have all my gear but I have pretty much replaced it all with tig brazing for the most part.
Awesome. Thanks for responding. I'm having a little problems with Oxy-Acetylene T Joints. I've looked all over youtube for Oxy-Fuel welding T Joints and there's only a couple vids but they're not up close or not in detail or I can't see what the person is doing. So I figured I'd ask a bunch of UA-cam welders to see if they could possibly upload a video. :D
6011 is for penetration, surprised you didn't put a hole in the material.
You can turn it down below the recommended amperage and you can do short stitch welds if it digging too deep.
nice looking garage ! did you build that?
I didn't build it Gordon but I rebuilt most of everything that you saw. It was pretty run down
wow, didn't know people really calculate their settings for stick welding
Mercer Frey every electrode has a recommended amperage rating as a starting point. It’s usually printed on the label. Eventually with experience and time, the beginner welder will remember what rod runs with what amperage.
You have too. For best results
I’d make my wife buy that so I can weld it
🤣🤣🤣 good thinking!