since I saw your videos i have just stopped looking at any other instructor, I just don't want to learn from anyone else apart from you, i don't even have the words to explain how good you are, thank you so much Tim.
Hi Tim I’m 27 and decided to go back to college to learn welding, currently in my 5th week so far and your videos have been such a great help thank you man 🙏
Something VERY important when welding this thin tubing is FIT. If you have gaps you are in for a very messy time! Grind everything to get the parts to fit with no gap for trouble free results!
Your videos are the only ones I have found that actually teaches the best techniques for welding ( at what amperage to put the machine, what rod to use, the angle in which to put your rod, etc.) It really helps a beginner like myself. Thanks a lot!
Really appreciate it. Watched this probably 5 to 7 times in the last few months as I learn to weld thin material. Thanks for the simple and clear instructions
Hi there my name is Tony and I love your videos I am an above-the-knee amputee I am 44 years old and learning the welding trade thank you for your videos I am learning so much this is a great UA-cam video:-) thank you
If you’re new to welding and haven’t checked out Tim’s welding courses yet, they’re cheap and super helpful. I’m not paid to say this 😂just very grateful for finding his channel and courses. They were (and continue to be very helpful) as I’m learning. I’m happy I found this video as I’m hoping to start building my own welding table frame with some tubing I just found.
Bro. Thank you so much. This is the answer that I've been looking for for days now. I don't know what is number with my stick, 'cause it has no number in it, but, I'll just adjust my amperage since I always have burn through. You're the man.
by far the best on youtube. i welded in highschool and took welding classes in tech school but kind of forgot most things. just getting back into it and your videos are better then any tech school keep it up great videos and explanations.
@@james10739 it's better than Imperial. I've grown up with Imperial so it's easier for me to mentally approximate, but metric is totally easier to work with than fractions.
@@marsbase3729 your lucky, think about us that never work with fractions. only time we work with fractions is when making threads on pipes. These imperial measurements are alien to us xD
Very helpful as a novice. I appreciate the work you put into these videos. I'm on an old ass ac/dc welder and I've always done the 'dial and try' method to get things started. On old buzz boxes you have to test for sure.
Thank you, I have tried stick welding many times but with consistent ugly results I will follow your instructions for a hope of better skills in the nearest future! Cheers
I keep watching your videos and one day soon I'm going to pull the trigger and get a machine and just start doing it. Welding is something I've always wanted to learn to do and your videos are great.
I am very new to welding and every time i watch one of your videos, i feel like i can go out to the shop and lay down a nice bead. You make it look so easy. Hats off to anyone who can truly weld because its definitely a skill that requires some major practice and trial and error. Thanks for sharing all of this great info
I'm also new to welding. My brother has been welding for 25-30 yrs & he's shown & helped my with the basics & turned me loose, giving alot of useful advice on what to do/what not to do, how to do this & that, showing me different bead type running techniques & what to watch for/look for! I've been practicing most everyday out in my shop & having a blast!!!
Dude, you're the best! I'm a total noob when it comes to welding and I just want to do some lightweight stuff in my garden (no heavy construction). Thanks for taking the time to vid/edit and upload, much appreciated.
Hey Tim mate.. Really enjoying these videos my bro. I'm a complete newbie really apart from my metalwork classes when I was 11/12/13 yrs old going to metalwork classes in secondary school over 35 yrs ago.. LOL I just bought a small inverter stick welder. I was going to plump for one of those MIG/ARC welders but I got this cheaper model to learn to stick weld 1st and hopefully it goes well enough to get me going well enough so I can step up my game. Until then I'll stick to the stick welder and maybe in the next year or so I'll buy me one of the more expensive welders. My brother in law has a lotta experience with welding so I will pick his brain as well as using the knowledgeable people like ur good self on YT. It needs to be said again how brilliant u guys on here are. I salute u Tim for putting all this great content up on here in video format. It helps guys like myself out no end my bro. I really appreciate the time it takes to make these videos with all the editing involved in it so much respect my bro. Take care and keep up the great work man..
Been using tig for my 1/16 square tubing, its slow and argon eating so Ive been trying to stick weld , 1/16 6013 @ 45 amps DCEN, hard to start , Going to try your way 3/32 AC ,thanks great movie.
my ac welder has those shunts to adjust the amperage. but when i lower ot to 55 amps, it make a lot of noise. it welds fine but the noise is so annoying. your videos have helped me alot to start welding,👍
Your a great teacher... I sure do like your approach.... nice... simple... not elaborate... no showing off how pretty your welds are... tho they sure do look good. Very practical. Thank you!
Nice. I tried welding for the first time - with the help of your vids unfortunately none of my welds look like that lol thank you for uploading your info. My welds could’ve been way worse. I’ll keep at it
hello mate much respect from across the pond in Britain :) your channel is easily the best most professional and informative of any on UA-cam dude. i have just purchased a very cheap 100amp arc welder and mask and am very interested in learning this amazing skill. i want to build and alter motorcycle frames ebike frames in future so your videos are absolutely excellent my friend.
Not a fan of 6013, but you can use it. Harbor Freight has kept 2lb boxes of 1/16" 6013 in stock in recent years. Some of the overseas welders use 3/32" 6013 with a dab-dab technique on thin metal, because that's what they can get. (6013 flux is basically a ceramic and can survive the tropical climate, no small thing.) They strike the arc at 45deg pushing away from the direction of travel, create the puddle, break the arc, then just as it fades to black, strike it again. You need the angle to push the flux back from the leading edge. You are making a bead of spot welds, but it spreads out the heat, and they make it work! If you wanted a continous bead you could try 6011 electrode neg. If you had to do a lot of them, with practice and getting the right settings you could make a decent bead. I like to use 3/32" 6011 DCEP, and spot weld, that is build up a bead of spot welds. Then I can spread out the heat. That will work on heavy sheet metal too, especially with a copper or aluminum backing block to soak up excess heat. IF it isn't pretty, "Grinder and Paint make me the welder I ain't." Just some ideas, thanks for your videos as always.
Does that not trap the flux when the next tack gets done? Total newbie here but we also mostly get 6013 here where im from in South Africa. Appreciate any help or advice its extremely tricky to weld this thin tubing without burning through and have considered the tacking method . Thanks
There are lots of videos of the dab-dab technique with 6013 (the smaller the electrode the better, 3/32" (2.4mm) or smaller). 5/64" or 1/16" are better (2.0, 1.6mm) but may cost a lot more, be hard to find, or simply not available. One reason I prefer 6011, even though it's more aggressive, is it will absolutely burn through any remaining slag. It is also fast freeze. But you can definitely do it with 6013. I don't think you get slag entrapment, because you use a forty-five degree angle so the arc force pushes the slag away from the leading edge. If you can restrike while the last bead is still hot, the flux should easily melt away. Also, you strike the arc, make a good molten puddle, then break the arc. If you hold the arc too long, you can burn through and you add too much metal and slag. The excess slag will cause trouble. If you have really thin tubing or sheet metal you might have to do one spot weld at a time, then move several inches, wait a minute, etc., etc.. I think you can do it with a 45 angle, make a puddle then break the arc. You could scrape with a chipping hammer to check for slag. With this kind of welding, you just try untill you find something that works for you. If you really mess up, and you will, just walk away for a minute, then come back and try something a little different. Best of luck.
Great video Tim! Right now I have a project and I’m using thin wall square tubing. But I can’t weld continuously because the amount of heat will make holes on the tubes so basically I tack weld all the joints. I’m welding on 1.52 mm material and around 60 amps.
Sometimes just tacking them is enough. You may need to travel faster or run a smaller electrode on a little lower current. Also, one thing I forgot to mention in the video, it can be helpful to let the material cool a little between each weld, because if the metal is hot to start with, you'll be more likely to burn through.
If you are doing something like a series of tacks all besides each other, that actually takes quite a bit of skill. You might try 1/16" 6011 with AC, or 1/16" 6010 DC electrode positive at 40-45 amps. The flux is less likely to be trapped.
@@mark6092 thanks for the info. I am not familiar with the English welding terms but I’ll add a link so you can check out what I’m talking about. ua-cam.com/video/_4FpfQSTlEo/v-deo.html
@@kylecordero6386 1.6mm 6011 rod using Direct Current electrode positive, or Alternating Current if that is not available. From what I understand 6010 is not as commonly found outside the USA. It leaves less flux, burns through and floats previous flux better, and starts easier than 6013 rods.
ive been welding for 30 years and making bird poop for 30 years in ever increasing splodges. finally a teacher that takes his time and shows you with a good camera what he is actually doing. at time 7:00 for you, you knew what you were doing so you went back a little, got the bead going and then pulled the "puddle" . for us 30 year old poopers, thats where we have been doing it wrong all along. so, im gonna get some 6013, get a welding machine with a dial that will do 40amps, measure the amps and see this "puddle" thing you do that i have not been able to do for 30 years
Thank you, a very helpful video. I didn't know that a longer arc length created a hotter welding condition, this is with a "buzz box", right? With an inverter welder with dig turned on, arc force is increased by a tight arc gap so, I'm thinking that dig should be set to off or very low when maintaining a tight arc with an inverter welder.
Man I used to make a living TIG and MIG welding thin wall aluminum pipe and screens, that was 17 years ago, thank you for this video, Im welding again building things for personal use and damned if I didnt have to look for some help, thank you
Thank you Tim! You are my go-to welding instructor. I have learned not to click on "professional welders will never show you this!" videos. The comments on your lessons are usually from people with good ideas and tips, and not the negativity you get elsewhere. I won't be taking your course because I simply want to be able to take a stick to small jobs and projects around the house and not get shafted by local lads here in the Philippines who only know how to do dodgy tack welds that fall apart at the first opportunity. Plus I'm clocking 70 and happy just pottering around my house and my garden. Thanks again for your first rate videos.
thanks Tim, that helped heaps....just gotta do the mileage. One thing I gotta ask. We have all seen the tips on other sites where they do multiple tacks as a method of not getting the metal too hot in this situation. (I understand the relationships u speak of here re ammps, rod, rod angle, travel speed etc. I for the life of me with my 6013 Rods, 2.6mm.....I cant get my stick to repeatedly arc up again like they do.....I have to hit a piece of wood at 90degrees or scrap my rod over a brick to break off the flux so I can arc up. So i know whats happening and it dont bother me on longer welds with thicker metals.....but welding thinner stuff like this for agtes and other projects......I dont get it. How do they do it. Usually my amps and arc force are set pretty okay for what I am welding................so I am aware of all that......I know its called burn back....but most searches only reference that to mig welding and the wire length and issues on terminating the weld...wire that is. Any thoughts appreciated...as are as a part of my welding journey. Cheers.
Just a quick question. Are you getting headaches on the left side? You have your head tilted that way and it often will indicate headaches there. If so see a chiropractor and they will help with the headaches.
I'm welding up a 5 steps with rails to a metal landing that I'm also welding. What thickness and size square tubing am I required by code to use. THANK YOU! LOVE YOUR CHANNEL!! 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Good video Tim, I've just borrowed A Parweld XTS 143 to weld some tubing, l used 2.4 rods, and got good results using the DC set, my Clarke AC set l just sold and ordered the Parweld XTS 143 such a big difference to using AC
Totally! I usually run electrode positive on stick, but electrode negative would work great on this thinner stuff, giving less penetration and letting you move along really fast. Great tip!
@@TimWelds Electrode negative will result in higher temperature on the material (due to the electron flow from - to +) and so bigger penetration in material - isn´t it?
@@mladenfrank2613 I think DCEN generally is thought to put more heat into the electrode and less into the base metal. Thus running an open root with 7018 is generally easier on dcen rather than dcep. the electrode is hotter and the base metal is cooler. Same with flux core mig. it is run dcen so the electrode gets more preheat of the flux in the wire.
@@mladenfrank2613 Current flow is not just electrons, there is also the molten metal that carries positive charge in the opposite direction. Because the atoms are accelerated consistently in one direction on DC, they also _develop kinetic energy_ in one direction and dump that heat into the metal they are colliding with.
I'm planning to learn to weld this year and I've been watching dozens of how-to videos in preparation for when I get my machine. Something I keep hearing is "keep a tight arc" but nobody ever explains exactly what that means. It's hard to see in the video, and it's not really described how it's accomplished. What exactly do you do with the end of the stick? Do you drag it along the metal? Do you hold it so that it hovers a few millimeters above the metal? I'd be very grateful if you'd tell us. THX
Yea the keep it the arc length tight "Length of arc: The correct arc length varies with each electrode and application. As a good starting point, arc length should not exceed the diameter of the metal portion (core) of the electrode. For example, an 1/8-inch 6010 electrode is held about 1/8 inch off the base material" found through Google's via Miller welds website. So essentially keep it the thickness of the electrode but it this instant it may pay to be in the closer side but all depending on your welder set up and travel speed ect.
As a newbie myself and home YT self teaching, the arc length in stick is harder when you are just starting out. I got frustrated just attempting to strike an arc and not a bunch of stuck electrodes and arc strikes. Best thing that I did to get better was “GO THICKER MATERIAL “ like 1/8 “ or 1/4” just run beads on plate or corner angles. The thicker material takes longer to heat up and will give you a chance to strike arc, figure out what your seeing by “weld pool” and then in that split second get moving AND slightly lowering your rod as its burning up as filler!!! Way more difficult than MIG. As the material comes out the gun. I did successfully tack weld a cheap metal fence post with the metal plates on them to stabilize them. The practice on thicker helped as the thin stuff will help you be frustrated by the hole blowing.....cheers and happy practicing when you get your welder.
The first reply to your question is a good one. Also, note that 6013 is often called a "contact electrode" because when everything is dialed-in right, you get good results when actually dragging the electrode along so it contacts the base metal via its coating (with the electrode at a typical angle, this creates a bit of a gap between the metal of the electrode and the base metal). That's not a hard-and-fast rule, because you'll find out that there are times you need a longer arc than that, but it shows that deliberately holding the end of the electrode with a sizable gap away from the base metal is usually not correct.
Great video! When you could, can you do a 45 degree square joint of 16 or 18 gauge galvanized square/rectangular Tubing? You mentioned in another video that you use a quick pass trick with 6011/10. Thanks
Hi I have never welded, i've been looking at,all in one pistol welder, what do you think of them, all i will be doing is welding tubing for motor bike seat frames . Thank you, PS I think your videos are great and well explained.
For me it gets a bit more challenging to avoid blowing holes through the weld when doing an end to end joint like a mitre joint. The fillet joint tends to be a bit more forgiving because you are welding up against the side of the tubing.
I do use 1/16" electrodes on bike tubing. I cut them in half and use them short, because autherwise they are too limp to control. If you cut the electrode in the middle, and clean both ends for the clamp, one will already have the correct end on it. And the other has a part with bare rod sticking out of it. Clip that off right to the flux and one has two usable rods.
So try 7018 rod for clean metal and if welding through rust or paint use 6011 rod. Try to find an Miller thunderbolt 220 welder you can typically find an deal on Craigslist. The size of the rod allows you to either raise the amps up for more heat or down for less and that depends on the size and type of metal your welding so use smaller rod for thinner and bigger rod for thicker metals. I use these two types of rod on most prodjects and jobs and they are standard rods commonly used.
@@wrightsrrt871 you cannot weld that joint with 7018, maybe the fillet but not the j groove .the man just showed you how with 6013 because it a shallow pentrating rod with a short arc length, 6011 is a fast freeze rod with deep penetration Are you a farm welder?
@@brianpatrick8441 yes I weld on an farm also been to college for welding and have been welding for over 16 plus years stopped counting at 14 years cause what dose it matter after so long how many years. I dont ride coat tails I do many things like ranch hand welding also have welded catalytic converters in cars with stick which is thin metal and I was told it's not possible but thats just me and people are allowed to belive what they want to 7018 was introduced to me in my welding class as used for clean metal and 6011 was introduced to me as used for rusted and painted metal. They kept it simple but I do understand there's also hard facing rods and rods for all kinds of things. I was only stating that those are the rods I use on an regular basis for majority of things and I have many 1500 pound pluss animals pushing against the welds I've done and they've been there for some over 10 years. Never said I was an pro either but I do dam good job and take pride in my work. Good day to you though sir and hope you find closure in my answer as yes im an ranch welder but also an college educated ranch welder so I guess you could say am I certified well no cause I don't need to be to make money welding cattle fence!
Hey Tim, I’m living in Asia now, can mostly easily find electrodes like Japanese RB-26 2.6mm. Tried it but the results were horrible, I’m still learning. In your experience, is this something similar to 6011? I was running the electrode on negative pole per the inverter welder’s manual.
Hello Tim Nice to write to you again. I love to use a E7018 electrode I have manage to weld.with it even a amp as low a 90 cause a was fixing a motorcicle (stirrup) well the trues us that I really don't know it's name in English but it is very thin tube and with E6013 i was making a disaster leaving slag embedded in the weld. I grinded all of it and rewelded everything. I just can't think of changing for m something all. I just wanted to
Great video! Thanks Tim. I’m learning on a little Kutcher welder, on running on 110.. you’re a great teacher man, I’d sure love it if you did a vid on using a Klutch!
hay Tim gait job . can you give some fab tips to i have been the triad for close to45 years most of the ones who want to weld have trouble fitting if you have a good fit easier to weld
Hi, I've stick welded before but gave it away because I wasn't using it much . Unfortunately , I need to weld two small holes in a mudguard of an old Japanese motorcycle (175 honda) . It's only .025 of an inch . The guard isn't removable btw . You think stick would be suitable ? Regards Will
So to sum up a little bit- less than 30 amps for 1mm of stick. So 2mm stick means 55 amps on the welding machine. I always did 40 per 1mm, and I have many holes sometimes. With less you may have issues to raise an arc. Thank you for the tips!
Hi Tim! I was wondering if 7018 stick rod will work on chromoly tubing? I can't afford to buy any gas welding. Is there alternative steel tubing as light as chromoly?
I used an ac buzz box set on 50 amps (machine only had 50\100\150\&200),6013(2.3mm) for welding 30x30mm clean tubes and arc made holes in tubes so i had to weld it only using arc shots. What's the solution to avoid melting the tube ?
Here is a very simple trick for you that will change your welding skills on thin metal forever, combined with what you have said! Try it and see for yourself...Switch your poles (negative & positive) on your welder! Simple as that...Just try it and see the improvement. It arks to the electrode and not from it, thus not burning holes in your work piece.
I am having problems with porosity when usin 6013 I think I am moving too fast or the amperage is too low! My welder is a cheap Parkside one up to 2.5mm electrode!
Im new at stick welding always wanted to try it out,good thing to have as i need most of the time something to be welded.anywaus i found that if you cut your rod in have make it 2 short ones if you do smal welds,its easier to control shorter one than the whole length rod,still learning so this way makes it a bit easier to keep a steady weld,am i right or wrong in doing so?
Another great tutorial Tim. I find, when I put on a new rod, my welding is not very precise. Is it OK to hold the welding rod until the length becomes more manageable?
Hi Tim, I want to learn to fix my own car exhausts when leaks develop. What is the most budget friendly process without needing gas? I've seen lots of videos and read material that generally says thin metal like exhuast should be done with mig be it gas or fcaw, with the main concern being burn through. Now I've seen you weld thin material with stick and you've shown how smaller electrodes can burn with less amperage and heat. I've seen 1/16 308 stainless rods that have very low recommended amperage. Also all fcaw stainless wires requires quite high amperage to run. So I'm confused, if Amps is heat then wouldn't a thin stick work even better?
How do I weld big gaps on thin wall tube? I have to weld 2mm wall square tube with 2.5mm electrodes. There is 1/16 - 1/2 inch gap that I have to weld. How do I do it? If I’m luck and don’t blow a hole, I end up using 4 rods
I have a Campbell hausfeld 70 amp welder. It only has a high and low setting (40/70 amp). Is it possible to weld extremely thin galvanized steel with it? If so, could you demonstrate it?
The chart is just a guideline/starting point, not a hard and fast rule. If you run multiple passes, you can go as thick as you want, it’ll just take a bit of time.
You can learn to weld. I'll show you exactly what to do in my affordable online welding courses at courses.timwelds.com.
Finally - a welding instructor without a chip on his shoulder!
Hard to find nowadays, most think their $hit don't stink.
He must have an amazing wife
He probably has a good chipping hammer.
Have your considered in-house welding classes?
@@oscar.iruegas9972 I did but my carpet kept going on fire
since I saw your videos i have just stopped looking at any other instructor, I just don't want to learn from anyone else apart from you, i don't even have the words to explain how good you are, thank you so much Tim.
Hi Tim I’m 27 and decided to go back to college to learn welding, currently in my 5th week so far and your videos have been such a great help thank you man 🙏
Something VERY important when welding this thin tubing is FIT. If you have gaps you are in for a very messy time! Grind everything to get the parts to fit with no gap for trouble free results!
Very good advice,fit is half the battle and especially on angle cuts that leave a sharp edge that is thinner again and will give blow through easily.
Your videos are the only ones I have found that actually teaches the best techniques for welding ( at what amperage to put the machine, what rod to use, the angle in which to put your rod, etc.) It really helps a beginner like myself. Thanks a lot!
👏 Absolutely the best welding tutor on UA-cam! Plenty time to explain everything, brilliant videos and in depth explanations
Really appreciate it. Watched this probably 5 to 7 times in the last few months as I learn to weld thin material. Thanks for the simple and clear instructions
Hi there my name is Tony and I love your videos I am an above-the-knee amputee I am 44 years old and learning the welding trade thank you for your videos I am learning so much this is a great UA-cam video:-) thank you
While there are many good welding videos on youtube I always check your channel first. Very concise! Thank you
I'm just starting to learn how to weld, I want to thank you for these videos as they are teaching me extreamly well.
If you’re new to welding and haven’t checked out Tim’s welding courses yet, they’re cheap and super helpful.
I’m not paid to say this 😂just very grateful for finding his channel and courses. They were (and continue to be very helpful) as I’m learning. I’m happy I found this video as I’m hoping to start building my own welding table frame with some tubing I just found.
Thanks a ton! I appreciate that!
Bro. Thank you so much. This is the answer that I've been looking for for days now. I don't know what is number with my stick, 'cause it has no number in it, but, I'll just adjust my amperage since I always have burn through. You're the man.
by far the best on youtube. i welded in highschool and took welding classes in tech school but kind of forgot most things. just getting back into it and your videos are better then any tech school keep it up great videos and explanations.
Great video man. Just one suggestion though. If you could annotate a metric conversion on screen this will help out a lot. Cheers.
Metric is not real
@@james10739 it's better than Imperial. I've grown up with Imperial so it's easier for me to mentally approximate, but metric is totally easier to work with than fractions.
@@marsbase3729 agreed 🤝 👍
@@james10739 ... oh please. Another insular y..k.
@@marsbase3729 your lucky, think about us that never work with fractions. only time we work with fractions is when making threads on pipes.
These imperial measurements are alien to us xD
Very helpful as a novice. I appreciate the work you put into these videos. I'm on an old ass ac/dc welder and I've always done the 'dial and try' method to get things started. On old buzz boxes you have to test for sure.
Thanks! Those old welders are bulletproof, though!
Thank you, I have tried stick welding many times but with consistent ugly results
I will follow your instructions for a hope of better skills in the nearest future!
Cheers
I keep watching your videos and one day soon I'm going to pull the trigger and get a machine and just start doing it. Welding is something I've always wanted to learn to do and your videos are great.
Thanks a ton! It can be frustrating at first, but once you get the hang of it, fabrication is so fun!
Everyone should watch your videos. Well done and no BS.
Thanks!
I need to do a couple of these joins next week. I don't do a whole lot of welding so this has been a nice clean refresher. Thank you for your help.
I am very new to welding and every time i watch one of your videos, i feel like i can go out to the shop and lay down a nice bead. You make it look so easy. Hats off to anyone who can truly weld because its definitely a skill that requires some major practice and trial and error. Thanks for sharing all of this great info
I'm also new to welding. My brother has been welding for 25-30 yrs & he's shown & helped my with the basics & turned me loose, giving alot of useful advice on what to do/what not to do, how to do this & that, showing me different bead type running techniques & what to watch for/look for! I've been practicing most everyday out in my shop & having a blast!!!
Dude, you're the best! I'm a total noob when it comes to welding and I just want to do some lightweight stuff in my garden (no heavy construction). Thanks for taking the time to vid/edit and upload, much appreciated.
Hey Tim mate.. Really enjoying these videos my bro. I'm a complete newbie really apart from my metalwork classes when I was 11/12/13 yrs old going to metalwork classes in secondary school over 35 yrs ago.. LOL
I just bought a small inverter stick welder. I was going to plump for one of those MIG/ARC welders but I got this cheaper model to learn to stick weld 1st and hopefully it goes well enough to get me going well enough so I can step up my game. Until then I'll stick to the stick welder and maybe in the next year or so I'll buy me one of the more expensive welders.
My brother in law has a lotta experience with welding so I will pick his brain as well as using the knowledgeable people like ur good self on YT.
It needs to be said again how brilliant u guys on here are. I salute u Tim for putting all this great content up on here in video format. It helps guys like myself out no end my bro. I really appreciate the time it takes to make these videos with all the editing involved in it so much respect my bro. Take care and keep up the great work man..
thankfully for the advice about using trial n error, I had to turn the dial down to "15"amp before it would stop blowing holes in the tube
Great demonstration, travel speed arc and temp
BEST beginner vids on youtube thank you so much!!
Been using tig for my 1/16 square tubing, its slow and argon eating so Ive been trying to stick weld , 1/16 6013 @ 45 amps DCEN, hard to start ,
Going to try your way 3/32 AC ,thanks great movie.
I'm about to weld a trailer hitch receiver to my welding table which has fairly thin tubing so this is helpful! Thank you
Much better than those videos on Facebook with the "stacks of tacks". :-)
Thanks Tim! Helping me step up my decks and fence building game!
Natural teacher. Good presentation.
my ac welder has those shunts to adjust the amperage. but when i lower ot to 55 amps, it make a lot of noise. it welds fine but the noise is so annoying. your videos have helped me alot to start welding,👍
This was literally my weld test for a job but for mig. Thank god.
Man, I've been looking for a chart like that forever! I was never able to find one that had electrodes, amperage, and material thickness!
I'm glad it helps! I put it together for another video about setting amperage that will come out in a couple weeks.
Your a great teacher... I sure do like your approach.... nice... simple... not elaborate... no showing off how pretty your welds are... tho they sure do look good. Very practical. Thank you!
Nice. I tried welding for the first time - with the help of your vids unfortunately none of my welds look like that lol thank you for uploading your info. My welds could’ve been way worse. I’ll keep at it
hello mate much respect from across the pond in Britain :) your channel is easily the best most professional and informative of any on UA-cam dude.
i have just purchased a very cheap 100amp arc welder and mask and am very interested in learning this amazing skill.
i want to build and alter motorcycle frames ebike frames in future so your videos are absolutely excellent my friend.
Excellent, thank you very much for all your tutorials they really helped me ALOT!! A great hug from Portugal !!!
Great to hear!
Not a fan of 6013, but you can use it. Harbor Freight has kept 2lb boxes of 1/16" 6013 in stock in recent years. Some of the overseas welders use 3/32" 6013 with a dab-dab technique on thin metal, because that's what they can get. (6013 flux is basically a ceramic and can survive the tropical climate, no small thing.)
They strike the arc at 45deg pushing away from the direction of travel, create the puddle, break the arc, then just as it fades to black, strike it again. You need the angle to push the flux back from the leading edge. You are making a bead of spot welds, but it spreads out the heat, and they make it work!
If you wanted a continous bead you could try 6011 electrode neg.
If you had to do a lot of them, with practice and getting the right settings you could make a decent bead.
I like to use 3/32" 6011 DCEP, and spot weld, that is build up a bead of spot welds. Then I can spread out the heat. That will work on heavy sheet metal too, especially with a copper or aluminum backing block to soak up excess heat.
IF it isn't pretty, "Grinder and Paint make me the welder I ain't."
Just some ideas, thanks for your videos as always.
Does that not trap the flux when the next tack gets done? Total newbie here but we also mostly get 6013 here where im from in South Africa. Appreciate any help or advice its extremely tricky to weld this thin tubing without burning through and have considered the tacking method .
Thanks
There are lots of videos of the dab-dab technique with 6013 (the smaller the electrode the better, 3/32" (2.4mm) or smaller). 5/64" or 1/16" are better (2.0, 1.6mm) but may cost a lot more, be hard to find, or simply not available.
One reason I prefer 6011, even though it's more aggressive, is it will absolutely burn through any remaining slag. It is also fast freeze.
But you can definitely do it with 6013. I don't think you get slag entrapment, because you use a forty-five degree angle so the arc force pushes the slag away from the leading edge. If you can restrike while the last bead is still hot, the flux should easily melt away. Also, you strike the arc, make a good molten puddle, then break the arc. If you hold the arc too long, you can burn through and you add too much metal and slag. The excess slag will cause trouble.
If you have really thin tubing or sheet metal you might have to do one spot weld at a time, then move several inches, wait a minute, etc., etc.. I think you can do it with a 45 angle, make a puddle then break the arc. You could scrape with a chipping hammer to check for slag.
With this kind of welding, you just try untill you find something that works for you. If you really mess up, and you will, just walk away for a minute, then come back and try something a little different. Best of luck.
@@thomaslewis9526 thank you so much for taking the time to respond to my message. I appreciate the advice and will surely try this out . Thanks again
Great video Tim! Right now I have a project and I’m using thin wall square tubing. But I can’t weld continuously because the amount of heat will make holes on the tubes so basically I tack weld all the joints.
I’m welding on 1.52 mm material and around 60 amps.
Thanks for the great video and helpful information.
Sometimes just tacking them is enough. You may need to travel faster or run a smaller electrode on a little lower current. Also, one thing I forgot to mention in the video, it can be helpful to let the material cool a little between each weld, because if the metal is hot to start with, you'll be more likely to burn through.
If you are doing something like a series of tacks all besides each other, that actually takes quite a bit of skill. You might try 1/16" 6011 with AC, or 1/16" 6010 DC electrode positive at 40-45 amps. The flux is less likely to be trapped.
@@mark6092 thanks for the info. I am not familiar with the English welding terms but I’ll add a link so you can check out what I’m talking about. ua-cam.com/video/_4FpfQSTlEo/v-deo.html
@@kylecordero6386 1.6mm 6011 rod using Direct Current electrode positive, or Alternating Current if that is not available. From what I understand 6010 is not as commonly found outside the USA. It leaves less flux, burns through and floats previous flux better, and starts easier than 6013 rods.
I haven't used my powerarc to stick weld in a very long time. I remember how difficult it was to weld thin stuff when I was starting out.
ive been welding for 30 years and making bird poop for 30 years in ever increasing splodges. finally a teacher that takes his time and shows you with a good camera what he is actually doing. at time 7:00 for you, you knew what you were doing so you went back a little, got the bead going and then pulled the "puddle" . for us 30 year old poopers, thats where we have been doing it wrong all along. so, im gonna get some 6013, get a welding machine with a dial that will do 40amps, measure the amps and see this "puddle" thing you do that i have not been able to do for 30 years
Thank you, a very helpful video. I didn't know that a longer arc length created a hotter welding condition, this is with a "buzz box", right?
With an inverter welder with dig turned on, arc force is increased by a tight arc gap so, I'm thinking that dig should be set to off or very low when maintaining a tight arc with an inverter welder.
Man I used to make a living TIG and MIG welding thin wall aluminum pipe and screens, that was 17 years ago, thank you for this video, Im welding again building things for personal use and damned if I didnt have to look for some help, thank you
Thanks!
Good video Tim!
Even Tig and Mig welding thin tubing can be challenging also...
Well presented topic. You have given me some confidence to take this welding to greater heights! Thanks
Thank you Tim! You are my go-to welding instructor. I have learned not to click on "professional welders will never show you this!" videos. The comments on your lessons are usually from people with good ideas and tips, and not the negativity you get elsewhere. I won't be taking your course because I simply want to be able to take a stick to small jobs and projects around the house and not get shafted by local lads here in the Philippines who only know how to do dodgy tack welds that fall apart at the first opportunity. Plus I'm clocking 70 and happy just pottering around my house and my garden. Thanks again for your first rate videos.
thanks Tim, that helped heaps....just gotta do the mileage. One thing I gotta ask. We have all seen the tips on other sites where they do multiple tacks as a method of not getting the metal too hot in this situation. (I understand the relationships u speak of here re ammps, rod, rod angle, travel speed etc. I for the life of me with my 6013 Rods, 2.6mm.....I cant get my stick to repeatedly arc up again like they do.....I have to hit a piece of wood at 90degrees or scrap my rod over a brick to break off the flux so I can arc up. So i know whats happening and it dont bother me on longer welds with thicker metals.....but welding thinner stuff like this for agtes and other projects......I dont get it. How do they do it. Usually my amps and arc force are set pretty okay for what I am welding................so I am aware of all that......I know its called burn back....but most searches only reference that to mig welding and the wire length and issues on terminating the weld...wire that is. Any thoughts appreciated...as are as a part of my welding journey. Cheers.
Just a quick question. Are you getting headaches on the left side? You have your head tilted that way and it often will indicate headaches there. If so see a chiropractor and they will help with the headaches.
If this was in the vertical position, would you go downhill to prevent to much heat from building up?
I'm welding up a 5 steps with rails to a metal landing that I'm also welding. What thickness and size square tubing am I required by code to use. THANK YOU! LOVE YOUR CHANNEL!! 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Good video Tim, I've just borrowed A Parweld XTS 143 to weld some tubing, l used 2.4 rods, and got good results using the DC set, my Clarke AC set l just sold and ordered the Parweld XTS 143 such a big difference to using AC
I'm glad I find this video I have a project coming up when I have to weld razor blades together this will comes in handy....
Good video for the majority of intermediate welders. But the 6013 runs smoother using DC electrode negative if available.
Totally! I usually run electrode positive on stick, but electrode negative would work great on this thinner stuff, giving less penetration and letting you move along really fast. Great tip!
@@TimWelds Electrode negative will result in higher temperature on the material (due to the electron flow from - to +) and so bigger penetration in material - isn´t it?
@@mladenfrank2613 I think DCEN generally is thought to put more heat into the electrode and less into the base metal. Thus running an open root with 7018 is generally easier on dcen rather than dcep. the electrode is hotter and the base metal is cooler. Same with flux core mig. it is run dcen so the electrode gets more preheat of the flux in the wire.
@@mladenfrank2613
Current flow is not just electrons, there is also the molten metal that carries positive charge in the opposite direction. Because the atoms are accelerated consistently in one direction on DC, they also _develop kinetic energy_ in one direction and dump that heat into the metal they are colliding with.
@@peetky8645 could a smaller rod 7018 be run on dcen at a lower amperage to weld thin metal?
I really don’t understand why you’ve not got more subscribers?
Really helpful pointers for a newbie like me. Thanks a ton.
I'm planning to learn to weld this year and I've been watching dozens of how-to videos in preparation for when I get my machine. Something I keep hearing is "keep a tight arc" but nobody ever explains exactly what that means. It's hard to see in the video, and it's not really described how it's accomplished. What exactly do you do with the end of the stick? Do you drag it along the metal? Do you hold it so that it hovers a few millimeters above the metal? I'd be very grateful if you'd tell us. THX
Yea the keep it the arc length tight "Length of arc: The correct arc length varies with each electrode and application. As a good starting point, arc length should not exceed the diameter of the metal portion (core) of the electrode. For example, an 1/8-inch 6010 electrode is held about 1/8 inch off the base material" found through Google's via Miller welds website.
So essentially keep it the thickness of the electrode but it this instant it may pay to be in the closer side but all depending on your welder set up and travel speed ect.
As a newbie myself and home YT self teaching, the arc length in stick is harder when you are just starting out. I got frustrated just attempting to strike an arc and not a bunch of stuck electrodes and arc strikes. Best thing that I did to get better was “GO THICKER MATERIAL “ like 1/8 “ or 1/4” just run beads on plate or corner angles. The thicker material takes longer to heat up and will give you a chance to strike arc, figure out what your seeing by “weld pool” and then in that split second get moving AND slightly lowering your rod as its burning up as filler!!! Way more difficult than MIG. As the material comes out the gun. I did successfully tack weld a cheap metal fence post with the metal plates on them to stabilize them. The practice on thicker helped as the thin stuff will help you be frustrated by the hole blowing.....cheers and happy practicing when you get your welder.
The first reply to your question is a good one. Also, note that 6013 is often called a "contact electrode" because when everything is dialed-in right, you get good results when actually dragging the electrode along so it contacts the base metal via its coating (with the electrode at a typical angle, this creates a bit of a gap between the metal of the electrode and the base metal). That's not a hard-and-fast rule, because you'll find out that there are times you need a longer arc than that, but it shows that deliberately holding the end of the electrode with a sizable gap away from the base metal is usually not correct.
My DC welder goes down to 50 amps, I generally use 1/16 rod at that setting, but never tried 6013x3/32.
Thank you so much Tim, I needed this video, I’m welding a 14 gauge square tubing for my project 👍
Great video! When you could, can you do a 45 degree square joint of 16 or 18 gauge galvanized square/rectangular Tubing? You mentioned in another video that you use a quick pass trick with 6011/10. Thanks
Golden! Thanks!! Greetings from Patagonia Chile!!!
Hi I have never welded, i've been looking at,all in one pistol welder, what do you think of them, all i will be doing is welding tubing for motor bike seat frames . Thank you, PS I think your videos are great and well explained.
For me it gets a bit more challenging to avoid blowing holes through the weld when doing an end to end joint like a mitre joint. The fillet joint tends to be a bit more forgiving because you are welding up against the side of the tubing.
I do use 1/16" electrodes on bike tubing. I cut them in half and use them short, because autherwise they are too limp to control. If you cut the electrode in the middle, and clean both ends for the clamp, one will already have the correct end on it. And the other has a part with bare rod sticking out of it. Clip that off right to the flux and one has two usable rods.
Beautiful welds Tim...I would have blown a hole through that, for sure! I'll try on thicker tube to start.
Thanks! It takes a bit of practice, but you can get the hang of it.
Tim, I'm a newbie on stick. I picked up some 5/64" 7014, I did ok with it on 16 ga @ 45 amps, dcep. My welder is an amico arc-160.
i got the same machine
So try 7018 rod for clean metal and if welding through rust or paint use 6011 rod. Try to find an Miller thunderbolt 220 welder you can typically find an deal on Craigslist. The size of the rod allows you to either raise the amps up for more heat or down for less and that depends on the size and type of metal your welding so use smaller rod for thinner and bigger rod for thicker metals. I use these two types of rod on most prodjects and jobs and they are standard rods commonly used.
@@wrightsrrt871 you cannot weld that joint with 7018, maybe the fillet but not the j groove .the man just showed you how with 6013 because it a shallow pentrating rod with a short arc length, 6011 is a fast freeze rod with deep penetration
Are you a farm welder?
@@brianpatrick8441 yes I weld on an farm also been to college for welding and have been welding for over 16 plus years stopped counting at 14 years cause what dose it matter after so long how many years. I dont ride coat tails I do many things like ranch hand welding also have welded catalytic converters in cars with stick which is thin metal and I was told it's not possible but thats just me and people are allowed to belive what they want to 7018 was introduced to me in my welding class as used for clean metal and 6011 was introduced to me as used for rusted and painted metal. They kept it simple but I do understand there's also hard facing rods and rods for all kinds of things. I was only stating that those are the rods I use on an regular basis for majority of things and I have many 1500 pound pluss animals pushing against the welds I've done and they've been there for some over 10 years. Never said I was an pro either but I do dam good job and take pride in my work. Good day to you though sir and hope you find closure in my answer as yes im an ranch welder but also an college educated ranch welder so I guess you could say am I certified well no cause I don't need to be to make money welding cattle fence!
Can't wait to learn more so I can build my own recreational park.
Hey Tim,
I’m living in Asia now, can mostly easily find electrodes like Japanese RB-26 2.6mm. Tried it but the results were horrible, I’m still learning.
In your experience, is this something similar to 6011? I was running the electrode on negative pole per the inverter welder’s manual.
best welding tutor
Hello Tim
Nice to write to you again.
I love to use a E7018 electrode
I have manage to weld.with it even a amp as low a 90 cause a was fixing a motorcicle (stirrup) well the trues us that I really don't know it's name in English
but it is very thin tube and with E6013 i was making a disaster leaving slag embedded in the weld.
I grinded all of it and rewelded everything.
I just can't think of changing for m
something all.
I just wanted to
Great video! Thanks Tim. I’m learning on a little Kutcher welder, on running on 110.. you’re a great teacher man, I’d sure love it if you did a vid on using a Klutch!
Do you use the 60 series setting when welding thin metal? Also curious if you’ve tested 6013 electrode negative to prevent burn thru? Many thanks.
hay Tim gait job . can you give some fab tips to i have been the triad for close to45 years most of the ones who want to weld have trouble
fitting if you have a good fit easier to weld
Hi, I've stick welded before but gave it away because I wasn't using it much . Unfortunately , I need to weld two small holes in a mudguard of an old Japanese motorcycle (175 honda) . It's only .025 of an inch . The guard isn't removable btw . You think stick would be suitable ? Regards Will
So to sum up a little bit- less than 30 amps for 1mm of stick. So 2mm stick means 55 amps on the welding machine. I always did 40 per 1mm, and I have many holes sometimes. With less you may have issues to raise an arc.
Thank you for the tips!
Thanks! When my machine comes that will be my first challenge.
Your videos are the best.
Hi Tim! I was wondering if 7018 stick rod will work on chromoly tubing? I can't afford to buy any gas welding. Is there alternative steel tubing as light as chromoly?
Ur videos are very detailed. Thank you so much bro
Thx mate, i just got my stick welder and i think my first test project will be a thin wall elecrode holder
Awesome!
I can do horizontal but I'm sometimes I have trouble with my verticals do you any suggestions?
Thanks
I used an ac buzz box set on 50 amps (machine only had 50\100\150\&200),6013(2.3mm) for welding 30x30mm clean tubes and arc made holes in tubes so i had to weld it only using arc shots.
What's the solution to avoid melting the tube ?
Setup and ran perfectly! Thanks for making these great videos.
Kindly explain current value
Arc force and hot start please
Here is a very simple trick for you that will change your welding skills on thin metal forever, combined with what you have said! Try it and see for yourself...Switch your poles (negative & positive) on your welder! Simple as that...Just try it and see the improvement. It arks to the electrode and not from it, thus not burning holes in your work piece.
So, dcen instead of dcep?
What is the best combination of stick type and amperage to weld motorcycle frame tubing?
I operated on a square tube using 2.5mm 6013 at 80 amps n ended up making a lot of holes! Already melted down n completely destroyed 30 ft. tube!
I am having problems with porosity when usin 6013 I think I am moving too fast or the amperage is too low!
My welder is a cheap Parkside one up to 2.5mm electrode!
Im new at stick welding always wanted to try it out,good thing to have as i need most of the time something to be welded.anywaus i found that if you cut your rod in have make it 2 short ones if you do smal welds,its easier to control shorter one than the whole length rod,still learning so this way makes it a bit easier to keep a steady weld,am i right or wrong in doing so?
Another great tutorial Tim. I find, when I put on a new rod, my welding is not very precise. Is it OK to hold the welding rod until the length becomes more manageable?
Hi Tim, I want to learn to fix my own car exhausts when leaks develop. What is the most budget friendly process without needing gas? I've seen lots of videos and read material that generally says thin metal like exhuast should be done with mig be it gas or fcaw, with the main concern being burn through. Now I've seen you weld thin material with stick and you've shown how smaller electrodes can burn with less amperage and heat. I've seen 1/16 308 stainless rods that have very low recommended amperage. Also all fcaw stainless wires requires quite high amperage to run. So I'm confused, if Amps is heat then wouldn't a thin stick work even better?
great video,i just started learning thank you for your advice..
How do I weld big gaps on thin wall tube?
I have to weld 2mm wall square tube with 2.5mm electrodes. There is 1/16 - 1/2 inch gap that I have to weld.
How do I do it? If I’m luck and don’t blow a hole, I end up using 4 rods
I have a Campbell hausfeld 70 amp welder. It only has a high and low setting (40/70 amp). Is it possible to weld extremely thin galvanized steel with it? If so, could you demonstrate it?
Hey Tim, what a great technique you have. Do you think it would work with that Dekopro MMA-160A? Cheers.
Using DCEP 2.5mm N6013 what is the correct ampere setting for tubular 1.5mm to prevent holes when joining. Thanks in advance
So according to the chart, 3/32" 6013 can't be used for anything > 1/4", right?
The chart is just a guideline/starting point, not a hard and fast rule. If you run multiple passes, you can go as thick as you want, it’ll just take a bit of time.
Hi Tim, thanks for the video, will be of great help.
I keep a stash of 5/64 7014s just for tacking. They are a cheat code, they make tiny little tacks and light up instantly.
I always use mig on thin wall but I think it's a good practice makes perfect skill test.