Thanks for giving authentic advice and not misleadingly trying to sell your product. Just picked up a 66 project and I'll definitely be purchasing your products. Awesome work.
Great video. I was able to fit a 245 /45/17 rear tire with the stock setup. It actually grips very well. Also, I installed some Bilstein shocks in the rear which were much firmer than a kyb or similar shock. For driving around town and all that it works great
Great stuff and looking forward to putting this stuff on my ‘68 fastback. However I need to address some cracks in my rear shock mounts first. Do you make anything to reinforce this area? A quick search on the internet seems to indicate that quite a few mustangs have this issue. I have had the front shock towers repaired…seems like of a lot of our cars have seen some rough days…or maybe it’s just 50+ years of normal use.
Sandamal, We do not make any reinforcement pieces for the upper shock mount area. We do not know of anyone producing anything for it. Dynacorn does list a complete replacement, you may want to look in to that item. FYI, we do not sell Dynacorn.
I don't know what these guys know but putting a rear sway bar on my 65 along with a front bar and lowering 1" a la Shelby made the car so much more fun to drive. Drive through corners with the gas pedal to move the rear, changed the cars feel tremendously. The heavy posi 9" on the other hand...
@@maierracing558 No question just relating my experience. I've watched a few vids of your stuff especially the one with the GT 350R and your red coupe, amazing car and engineering. Maybe you're saying a rear sway bar isn't needed with the rear setup your showing here(?)and again, I know basically nothing on how to set up a car but adding a rear bar to my basically stock 65 made a big difference in how much fun the car became to drive. Adding the 9" put more weight back there and I see where adding a panhard rod setup would keep things more aligned as I had the rear skip out on me while cornering. I've had the car for a very long time and now looking into upgrades. Be well.
@@bdyt Great question or observation. The "end result" of any rear suspension is the combination of all parts working (or not) together. This is a fantastic beer & pizza discussion!! For example, you can have all the "BEST" parts with garbage tires and have a Pile of Sh....! You can also have all the BEST parts and have zero suspension travel; so again, POS! Our suspension is really a combination of what works and what has not in the past for the classic Leaf sprung Mustangs. The rear sway bar adds spring rate in the corner. If your leafs are tired (for example), it will make the car flatter through the corners. If you run a spring like ours that has a stout (robust) leaf stack forward of the rear end, you may want to allow a softer spring rate. Allow things to move & rotate while knowing what parts to keep sturdy is or has been a trial & error. This is the combination that has worked for us with spirited street driving, auto-crossing or most amateur road course racing. C Maier..
@@maierracing558 perhaps that was the result of adding the rear bar, stock and I'm sure, tired springs because car was much flatter through corners and using to gas pedal to drive became fun. I can't wait to find out what it will be like to have a modern setup on it. Thanks for the reply
Do you have anything for the Mustang II in 1978? I'm from Germany and I am just rebuilding a Mustang II 1978 Coupe, with an improved chassis, I would be very happy. with friendly greetings from Germany
I’ve got 600 hp, 68 fastback, built 9” with 396 gear. Has occasionally wheel hop on hard acceleration. What would you do? Your leafs and shocks? Thanks.
Simple & common question~ But not such a simple answer. Yes, quality leafs and shock are most of it. I would feel better knowing more to give you the closest answer I could. For the moment, our leafs are designed to have as much stability forward of the axle as possible (which addresses the wheel hop). Much more than what we have will give away the ride quality. On the topic of the ride, the limited leafs behind the axle helps with the comfort. Quality shocks are a significant factor. Bilstiens are good quality for the price. if you have some discretion in your budget, you can upgrade to the Integra shocks. They control the rate in which things happen. Email us with specifics from there..
What do you think about to install a coilover suspension system for a Mustang 68 302 (347 stroker), no track, no turbo, no supercharger, no nitro, just weekend warrior! For my opinion 3-4 link systems is just for professional racing drivers, is there another cheap option?
This is a great subject to discuss. MY OPINION... there are numerous companies out right now that offer a 3 or 4 link rear suspension. My view is that most of them are making a 3 or 4 link to "have something" to offer and they are NOT really all that functional. Good for the street rods that look cool but don't really corner well. If you buy a 3 or 4 link "that is sorted out" and built to really be a true professional package, you will spend no less than $8- 10K for the parts and then more to install it. Our leaf spring rear suspension ($1,499) is simple and straight forward. It works well. If someone ever wanted more, they could spend more money in shocks and have a top shelf working program~
have a 67 fastback with your leafs. poly front bush, increased durometer rubber in shackles. planning on re-greasing the eye'what do you recommend for torque setting eye bolt? aware on the floor when wrenching. solid video/info thanks dw
![[UA] NAVI vs MOUZ | BO5 | IEM Rio 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CMBYk0cbGoA/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for giving authentic advice and not misleadingly trying to sell your product. Just picked up a 66 project and I'll definitely be purchasing your products. Awesome work.
We make an effort to treat others as we want to be treated. No games.. Most of the time is plays out well ;-)
Great video. I was able to fit a 245 /45/17 rear tire with the stock setup. It actually grips very well. Also, I installed some Bilstein shocks in the rear which were much firmer than a kyb or similar shock. For driving around town and all that it works great
Great stuff and looking forward to putting this stuff on my ‘68 fastback. However I need to address some cracks in my rear shock mounts first. Do you make anything to reinforce this area? A quick search on the internet seems to indicate that quite a few mustangs have this issue. I have had the front shock towers repaired…seems like of a lot of our cars have seen some rough days…or maybe it’s just 50+ years of normal use.
Sandamal, We do not make any reinforcement pieces for the upper shock mount area. We do not know of anyone producing anything for it. Dynacorn does list a complete replacement, you may want to look in to that item. FYI, we do not sell Dynacorn.
I them install that rear suspension on my old 66 and subframe connectors man it handled really really good.
Thanks for the good vibes!!
I don't know what these guys know but putting a rear sway bar on my 65 along with a front bar and lowering 1" a la Shelby made the car so much more fun to drive. Drive through corners with the gas pedal to move the rear, changed the cars feel tremendously. The heavy posi 9" on the other hand...
Hello... Was there are question?
@@maierracing558 No question just relating my experience. I've watched a few vids of your stuff especially the one with the GT 350R and your red coupe, amazing car and engineering. Maybe you're saying a rear sway bar isn't needed with the rear setup your showing here(?)and again, I know basically nothing on how to set up a car but adding a rear bar to my basically stock 65 made a big difference in how much fun the car became to drive. Adding the 9" put more weight back there and I see where adding a panhard rod setup would keep things more aligned as I had the rear skip out on me while cornering. I've had the car for a very long time and now looking into upgrades. Be well.
@@bdyt Great question or observation. The "end result" of any rear suspension is the combination of all parts working (or not) together. This is a fantastic beer & pizza discussion!! For example, you can have all the "BEST" parts with garbage tires and have a Pile of Sh....! You can also have all the BEST parts and have zero suspension travel; so again, POS! Our suspension is really a combination of what works and what has not in the past for the classic Leaf sprung Mustangs. The rear sway bar adds spring rate in the corner. If your leafs are tired (for example), it will make the car flatter through the corners. If you run a spring like ours that has a stout (robust) leaf stack forward of the rear end, you may want to allow a softer spring rate. Allow things to move & rotate while knowing what parts to keep sturdy is or has been a trial & error. This is the combination that has worked for us with spirited street driving, auto-crossing or most amateur road course racing. C Maier..
@@maierracing558 perhaps that was the result of adding the rear bar, stock and I'm sure, tired springs because car was much flatter through corners and using to gas pedal to drive became fun. I can't wait to find out what it will be like to have a modern setup on it. Thanks for the reply
Hmmm this suspension sounds like a good budget friendly option. 315 sounds perfect too
Do you have anything for the Mustang II in 1978?
I'm from Germany and I am just rebuilding a Mustang II 1978 Coupe, with an improved chassis, I would be very happy.
with friendly greetings from Germany
I’ve got 600 hp, 68 fastback, built 9” with 396 gear. Has occasionally wheel hop on hard acceleration. What would you do? Your leafs and shocks? Thanks.
Simple & common question~ But not such a simple answer. Yes, quality leafs and shock are most of it. I would feel better knowing more to give you the closest answer I could. For the moment, our leafs are designed to have as much stability forward of the axle as possible (which addresses the wheel hop). Much more than what we have will give away the ride quality. On the topic of the ride, the limited leafs behind the axle helps with the comfort. Quality shocks are a significant factor. Bilstiens are good quality for the price. if you have some discretion in your budget, you can upgrade to the Integra shocks. They control the rate in which things happen. Email us with specifics from there..
What do you think about to install a coilover suspension system for a Mustang 68 302 (347 stroker), no track, no turbo, no supercharger, no nitro, just weekend warrior! For my opinion 3-4 link systems is just for professional racing drivers, is there another cheap option?
This is a great subject to discuss. MY OPINION... there are numerous companies out right now that offer a 3 or 4 link rear suspension. My view is that most of them are making a 3 or 4 link to "have something" to offer and they are NOT really all that functional. Good for the street rods that look cool but don't really corner well. If you buy a 3 or 4 link "that is sorted out" and built to really be a true professional package, you will spend no less than $8- 10K for the parts and then more to install it. Our leaf spring rear suspension ($1,499) is simple and straight forward. It works well. If someone ever wanted more, they could spend more money in shocks and have a top shelf working program~
Do you have any leaf spring upgrades like this for 99-06 rwd/2wd Gm single cab short bed trucks?
have a 67 fastback with your leafs. poly front bush, increased durometer rubber in shackles. planning on re-greasing the eye'what do you recommend for torque setting eye bolt? aware on the floor when wrenching. solid video/info thanks dw
www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/bolts/US-Recommended-Torque.aspx
Could this fit in a 1960 ford falcon?
Tom @ Delta Bay Mustang in Brentwood CA. Ask him about what crosses over from the Mustang.
They have products that fit the 1st gen and second gen falcons you need to call them though.
Does this work with 14 gt500?
2014? This fits 1965-70
Not into ford but mikes blue mustang brought me here