Four of them? You should've had them play basketball instead! I bought my son a Commencal Meta for my son last year, and between upgrades he got for his birthday at Christmas, plus trips to the bike park, it's cost me a small fortune. Not to mention my own bike. All seriousness though, I've spent countless hours riding with him, took at least 6-7 trips to the bike park, plus a week in Killington. Best money I've ever spent, and wouldn't change it for the world!
As long as you get it from a shop that knows what it's doing! The setup on my Ripmo was a bit of a disaster and I had to fix a pile of stuff myself (including replacing the crank preload bolt that had been overtightened to the point of snapping in two). Sadly there are very few Ibis dealers in my area but at least now I know to spend my money elsewhere. The bike is awesome after being set up properly.
One thing to keep in mind with these. You could go riding at $350ish. You can then go upgrade as you have budget. This is particularly useful for like students who maybe don't have a steady income stream so they are really limited to the funds they have in the moment. "Just save up" might take them a really long time. With this you don't have to drop that whole $850-$900 at once. A lot of these comparison videos like this make the same mistake. It isn't just about the final total spent.
Exactly! It's the Kev-Central model. Buy a cheap bike, ride it, and slowly upgrade as you get the funds. Yes, you spend more money in the end, for a slightly worse bike in some regards. But at the end of the day you saved potentially years of not being able to ride at all! And that's worth far more than any extra money spent in the end! Not to mention now you have a bike that's really truly "yours" and not the same as anyone else's, and speced out to how you want it.
Also to keep in mind you drop 900 on a bike your going to be scared to do crazy things on it and kind of lose the whole learning experience where a cheaper bike if you crash and scratch it up its ok it didnt break the bank and you might have change to upgrade if something broke. I prefer cheaper bikes you make your own because like Dom torreto say a real racer knows exactly whats under the hood haha it makes better sense putting on parts you want but again buy cheap is expensive at the end
@@BeetleBuns yup learning from the worst is always the bes realistic thing. Hell learning from the best is also the same. Just gotta give time learn stuff the whole deal I guess but not asmuch fun as the cheap stuff
So just finance it. Then u also get to build credit and u also get the better product. Obviously there’s some situations that ppl can’t finance but u get the point.
Something i'd like to add is that for some of us, there is fun to be had in progressivly working on and upgrading our equipment. I won't get the most out of a $900 bike, but getting a bike for a few hundred (or an old hardtail for much less) and working on it for a few years is fun in its own way.
After almost 15 years I was finally in the market for a new MTB. I literally saw the Kent Trouvaille in Walmart yesterday. I googled it and your videos popped up first thing! I went through the whole series in store and it helped me make the decision to pick it up. The bike was actually marked clearance at $150 (398 online). At that price and with the upgraded crankset and hydraulic brakes you recommended, I think i will have a decent entry level bike I can build upon. Thank you for your honesty and your detailed breakdowns. You have earned yourself a follower!
get a set of Avid BB5 brakes (mechanical) as they will stop you just like hydro brakes. If you go hydro brakes, you much buy the whole set with levers, brakes lines and then for most, spend $$ at a bike shop for labor. The Avid BB5 or BB7 are great and bolt right on without changing brake levers or lines. Easy install. The crank on this bike is fine and no need to change it out. This guy with all the upgrades is not doing anyone a favor with a spending total that will get you more bang for the buck by going with a higher end bike in the $500+ range.
This is such a valuable series for those looking to get into MTB on a budget. I think it's important to mention though, that it's essential to support your local bike shops as often as you can because they keep this community going!
It’s worth doing if you consider the value of maybe learning about basic bike mechanics. If this is your first bike, and you haven’t wrenched before, there is intrinsic value in education. If you just want the best bike, I still think a department store brand for most people will be hit or miss.
I bought two used department store bikes and built them up for my dad and I... It was a great learning experience. Worth every penny to know how to repair and replace, without destroying a nicer ride with a mistake. Buuuuut, having a nicer bike from the store is also a delight.
@@askdrew98 but why waste money on a Walmart special used when a name brand is easy to afford used and way easier to work on since they are really supposed with good parts and can be upgraded to grow with you if your serious about riding compared to the Walmart special that can't continue to be upgraded because it will not be compatible with much after market upgrade parts
I was about to say the same thing. I bought a similar budget bike (Nishiki Colorado Comp) and liked the idea of being able to learn how to work on bikes as I go. I also like the idea of not having to spend a big amount all at once, and can upgrade and customize my bike in stages.
I see what you are saying and I agree, sort of. For a very first ("real") bike some of the upgrades are a bit outside of the scope of a beginner. Especially replacing the fork and derailleur. I think if you need a decent bike right now, getting one of the name brad options and learning basic upkeep maintenance first might be a better way than diving straight into replacements, unless you can space them out over time.
You have said yourself that you are a cycling advocate, and this goes one step further in proving that. We can appreciate the video showing how a beginner (or even a young kid, with not a lot of money for a high end bike) can buy his/her own starter bike, then upgrade it gradually as they see the need, without having to dish out almost 1k+ upfront. Well done.
I appreciate your series! I've been wanting to get into MTB for years and this series is what actually made me pull the trigger last summer on the Giordano Intrepid from Walmart. One thing to mention is that while the cost savings is questionable, you learn a lot about bike service and maintenance through the process and can make future bikes/upgrades a breeze :)
Motorcyclists here chiming in. You nailed it when you spoke about the dealer cycle shop experience. The Walmart is one and done; once you buy the bike, your on your own for service support. Buying a bike from an authorize dealer will give an owner future support for any customization's. Harley-Davidson is perhaps the best example of this business model. H-D dealers don't just sell a motorcycle, they sell a whole ownership experience. When buying a Harley, a prospect should really be scrutinizing the dealership because that's really what's being sold. The major Japanese brands have not been nearly as successful with this type of dealer-to-customer support. They are better at cloning the actual motorcycle then they are at establishing dealer-to-owner experience IMHO. Great video!
I bought a bike from Halfords (UK chain auto/bike/sporting store) for around the price bracket of the Kent. I think what this video demonstrates best is that I could probably do some essential and high value upgrades to my current bike to get it to be really something quite good. Its definitely inspired me to look into a 1x conversion.
As someone who rides a Polygon and has helped someone pick a new starter bike recently, I'd say Giant is probably your best value for an entry level hardtail but Polygon takes the cake when you get into full-sus (granted Fezzari and 1 other company that starts with a V also have some good value)
@sydneydowd8969 yep that's the one. I was stuck between that and my Siskiu T7. Ultimately, I decided to just get whatever came in stock first. Fortunately for me I got the bike that probably suits my riding more but both were great options
Polygon is still best value for starter hardtails too because they are always on sale. It was Xtrada 5 that got compared in the video but at current available prices it could have been a Xtrada 7 with Deore 12 speed, air fork and thru axles.
I own a pair of Polygon (T7 & DSE), and I agree. The hardtails like the Extrada are a little more expensive for what you're getting (so like the Trek), but the Siskiu line is perfect. Just disappointed the Extrada 7 doesn't have a dropper still. That's like the final thing they should've given it. Also disappointed Polygon doesn't have something to compete with the Marin San Quinton. A rowdy trail/bike park style hardtail.
11:09 I don't need more long term relationships than I already have, tyvm, haha. It's best if you balance a good enough cheap base platform with whatever tuning you're ABLE to do yourself reliably without damaging/compromising anything. If skilled above average - pay 400 and go all out, if inexperienced - pay 800 and maybe replace the saddle :) It pays off learning to DIY as the 400 base (with upgrades worth 400) WILL be better than the stock 800 base in the end (or equal, but for less money)
I started my mountain bike journey about 7 years ago on a Genisys bike from Walmart. By the end of that first season I spent most of my trail time fixing and tightening that bike up. By the next summer I had a used Giant Talon 1. Huge upgrade, Walmart bikes have their place, just not on the trail.
There's a kind of rider who can benefit from this experiment with the Kent Trouvaille. The kind of rider who is really watching the budget, and is just trying out mountain biking. After a few fun months riding, you can tell there are limitations to the bike, so you upgrade here and there, working on it yourself, instead of upgrading to an $850 Trek, because you know even selling your Walmart bike used, you can't make back the original money you spent on it. So this way is cheaper, as long as you can do the work yourself. It's so great that you really can upgrade this dept. store bike. At the end, you have a bike that has advanced as its rider has advanced. Maybe soon, you can justify another upgrade, to a much better bike than this upgraded Walmart one or an $850 Trek, etc. As someone whose mountain bike is a pre-2010 Specialised Hardrock, I like this series.
Something alot of people aren't aware of if you get a suntour fork new (be at it after market or OEM bike spec) , register the warranty you can then get money off a new upgrade fork from suntour I had a polygon xtrada 5 and got £75 off when upgrading the OEM xcm fork (I didn't use it but it's nice to have that option (
Seriously, Suntour needs to market this better. I have an old Specialized Hard Rock that came with a very cheap Suntour fork, but for a couple hundred bucks I was able to get it upgraded to a Raidon, which is such a drastically better fork. When I asked my bike shop about the upgrade program they had no idea. They had to contact SR Suntour to confirm it was actually a thing. And they probably sell dozens, if not hundreds of bikes with Suntour forks every year.
When ever I see people with suntour,be it when I worked in a bike shop or on forums etc I tell them about, yeah it's only really limited to a step or 2 up from what you have but in a lot of cases it's going from a coil to air fork which can make a world of difference
@@kierangraves1747 interesting, I couldn't see anything on their website, got a link? I'm eyeing up bikes around £600 at the moment and most have Suntour forks, so thinking about future upgrades
Another good option could be something from Specialized, like their Rockhopper Comp. For $713 (with the sale), your getting SRAM hydralic brakes, 1x9 microShift Advent drivetrain, and a good looking bike with different color and size options. Yes, it does come with a SR Suntour coil fork, but because it is cheaper than the Trouvaille, you can spend to replace the fork with the one shown in the video (SR Suntour XCR). With the fork upgrade, its only about ~$100 more if your trying to get something that already has a great start and upgrade from there.
For 800€ I got an Orbea Laufey with about 100kms, guy got back pain and was getting rid of the bike. Equiped with slx gear, Mt500 (or 200) brakes and rockshox Recon. Slapped Xt brakes and I’m having fun. I think that in good condition used bikes is a best bet.
@@spyder027 The Trek Marlin and Grand Canyon bikes have straight headtubes. You would have to go for the Trek Roscoe and Canyon STCHD to get tapered tubes (1200USD at least).
I don't have a lot of incomes buying relatively cheap and upgrading is the only way for me to eventually have a good bike. And let's be honest, i really enjoy the process, every spring, buying and installing new stuff, tuning the bike all summer and start all over again the next years.
I found a used Nishiki Pueblo for $100 at Play it again sports. It definitely needs upgrades! It works ok for now, but can’t wait to work on it this winter!
Here in Europe you can get things like either a Cube attention SL with better specs on every level, 12speed deore, Rockshox judy, hydraulic discs for $812. The Trek Marlin 6 gen3 is only $801, a Marlin 7 $866. A Scott Aspect 740 for $790. Too many options to sum up really, all cheaper than the Kent with upgrades.
Here in Indonesia we can get 27.5 XC with Shimano XT 12 speed with Rockshox Judy for $812. The only donwside is not using shimano casette. And there is many local bike company sell bike with deore group set with air fork under $700.
The Kent is a perfect bike for someone who can’t afford $800 up front on a bike, but has enough knowledge and skill to upgrade it themselves. As a kid I always upgraded my bmx bikes myself, and learned how to properly maintain them. As an adult now, I can do pretty much any upgrade I want on a mtb as long as I have the tools.
Yeah, slowly upgrade it over time. The bike upgrades as the biking/mech skills upgrade. Don't need to upgrade the hydraulic brakes until you want to start attempting the harder downhills, etc.
It's the smart play. Suggesting otherwise is like buying a brand new car without having any knowledge of how it works. Shops for maintenance is a great thing, but they're not necessary for everyone. Hard to justify spending more money just because a company has techs.
Did this same thing! Got a mongoose ardor put a new fork, dropper, 1x, and some old shimano brakes and routinely take it out in CO! Handles like a dream!
For the canyon comparison, you couldve looked at the canyon stoic 2. for 899$ you get that srsuntour air fork, deore 1x12 drivetrain and so on. So i think the stoic 2 has the best value of all bikes at that pricepoint
The vitus nucleus here in the uk is a lot better value. It comes with hydraulic brakes, dropper post, a good drive train and the same suntour air fork for £600 ($730) but that's including tax as well.
@@nebnollock5198 yeah but it costs quite a lot to import to the us. Evan's talked about this previously, i think he mentioned an import price somewhere at about 100$, so it would be very close to the canyon again
@@nebnollock5198 what really?! How does that make sense, canyon is a Company based in germany, is that due to brexit with shipping fees or is it just normally that high?
Cheap bike plus future upgrades is way more fun and educational choice if you are starter who wants to have a real hobby and appreciate many aspects of the process and life. I doubt it would be a better bike but it will make you definitely a better person, bike mechanic and it is way more fun. If you have more experience I would definitely buy the more expensive and better bike because you will have the foundation and appreciation of what you have bought.
The thing I liked about the Kent Trouville was the affordability. It offered me the chance to get the bike and see if it was something I would enjoy, then if I chose to do the upgrades, I could. I wasn't out $800 right off the bat to find out if mtb was for me or not. I found that I liked it, and decided to continue. Knowing that its something I enjoy, my next one will definitely be one of higher quality/serviceability. As for my Kent, I've done most of the upgrades you did, except I did a seat change. The one that still has me thinking is the fork upgrade. Seeing the process of how to install a new fork is a little intimidating (which upgrading can be a big negative if you aren't mechanically inclined when buying a cheap bike). I'm over an hour away from any real mountain bike shops, and wouldn't even know where to start if I looked for one. So I was able to get a ton of information about the sport, the tools, and the knowledge that goes along with owning and servicing my own mountain bike. They sure have changed a lot since I was a kid! Now if I could just find the perfect video to walk me through a fork swap with common tools, lol.
I did a fork replacement on an older bike of mine by myself, and it's not terribly hard. BUT I did end up going out and buying a bike workstand to actually make it easier to do, and honestly I would have struggled without at least some sort of stand unless I had a second person; and I ended up needing to take my new fork to a local bike shop to have them set the star nut for me, since I didn't want to go buy a tool for it or take the risk of hammering it in sideways (they were happy to do that for free, but yeah if you're an hour away from a shop, that's gonna be a tough sell). I'd say if you're semi-comfy with basic mechanical stuff and maybe don't mind buying a cheap specialty tool or two, it's worth the effort. But otherwise, if you don't mind that one-hour trip, I'd also definitely look into asking one of those bike shops what they charge for a fork install, my local shop would have done the whole thing for me for about $35USD and would have totally been worth it.
Swapping the fork is actually easier than you think. I did it myself for the first time. I, however didn't cut the fork down enough so the top cap wouldn't fit so I just added a spacer on top. I used a grinder to cut the steerer tube, but a hack saw or pipe cutter can work. Just watch tutorials and you'll be okay
Vitus Nucleus, picked one up new for my daughter new for £600 UK and the only thing it was missing was a dropper. Came with decent Clarkes brakes and Suntour Air fork and 1x11. I Put a Brand-X 150mm dropper and some decent pedals on, set her sag and she's off! Amazing value bike, I've also bought a Vitus E-Sommet and it's amazing, just put a PNW Loam Lever on it.
This is an awesome comparison! You never mentioned that on the Trek or Canon, you can fit dropper posts as well. The one thing you really wanted to do on the Kent travail. Yeah you can always go cheaper on items but usually the ones that are a little more expensive are for good reason. The amount of money that you have to put into research and development, it's a big cost increase on products that people forget about and usually only the large companies are really making that big spend
On the note of a dropper: I don't think a mountain bike can be considered a "real" mountain bike without one. It does more than just make a bike more fun, it makes it safer when doing anything remotely chunky. I have a marlin 8 and the dropper was the single most noticeable and important thing I did to the bike. The fact that plenty of real manufacturers ship mountain bikes without them stock, is a bummer. But not being able to fit one at all rules out a bike as a mountain bike in my opinion.
Kent is an extremely large company - probably larger than Trek or Specialized and definitely larger than Canyon - It just doesn't produce top cutting edge bikes as that is not its customer base. Not everyone needs or can afford even an entry level Trek - the thing with the Kent is you can start off at a low investment and as time and finances permit -build it to specs that meet the higher priced models. I am a Specialized bike enthusiast so I don't have any issues with the high end brands and recognize not everyone can build up their own bike - but it is possible to enjoy biking without paying for a name.
Dude. I got a Trouvaille from WM based on your vids. I had a 10yr old GT stolen from me and I've not been without a bike since childhood. Let me just say...for the price, the Kent is decent. I've not upgraded anything. Having said that, I have spent plenty of time adjusting components. Specifically brakes. While this bike is not the Nukeproof that I'd like to have, it does the job for me right now. Having been in North GA and ridden many of the premier tracks there, I would probably not take the Trouvaille out there. Just not confident in it. But where I am now, on the eastern coast, within a mile of the ocean, it is perfect. I can hop curbs, wheelie, sprint, coast and have a leisure ride and know that my bike can perform. Keep up the fantastic content! Many of us appreciate it and will keep absorbing what you deliver.
I’ve done these type of projects on a Mongoose Ardor and a Schwinn Al Comp and learning how to build an entire bike was worth it alone. Though I’ve now spent like 400 on Park Tool alone.
So the common argument is to compare total cost vs buying a comparable bike up front. What’s missing is that, you can upgrade at your pace and spend when you want. Big upfront purchases are harder. For my dad who’s 62, we bought the Kent last summer and added mt200 brakes. That got him riding and seeing if he liked it. This year we are doing a little more to it in prep for the second season. At the end of the day, he’ll either buy a new frame and swap over the upgraded components we’ve bought, or he’ll be done with it and I’ll have a nice hard tail to use. So yeah if you just wanna upgrade immediately and all at once, that’s not a good idea. But I’d budget is tight and you’re exploring the sport, that’s where this option shines.
I loved this series! It was informative, entertaining, and frankly... Fun! I also agree 100% with the conclusion--the cheapo bike may get some things right, but it's not a better value in the end (especially, if you are injured before finishing the various modifications). Moreover, the comparison left out three important, real-world factors that push still harder against the Trouvaille: 1) those name brand bikes are routinely on sale for less than MSRP; 2) we should all put a value on our time; and 3) the best values out there (hands down!) are in the used market. Buy your friend's old bike when he upgrades--$500, plus a professional tune-up will take you far!
Bought my first mountain bike because of this series ! A Kent Trouvalle ! Haven’t had no problems I’ve never worked on a bike till I bought this one. Planning a berm peak trip in march and I can’t wait honestly I am upgrading it from all the parts you did advise
it's always a good idea to buy the best bike you can afford. you will usually spend more money upgrading a less capable bike in the long run. but, if $400 is all you can spend, the kent is a worthy platform. upgrading also forces the learning process. Seth, amazon sells an adjustable reamer that will let you safely drill the seat post tube out to 30.9mm. another youtuber did this without incident. great video, bro.
Excellent points. I think sometimes what gets lost in this conversation about best value bike is some people who would buy the kent trouvaille simply can't afford $800+ for a bike all at once. Upgrade as you can afford plus the learning process can make sense for people on a budget as long as you end up with something you'll be happy with. I would probably lean more toward save money long enough for the bike store bike you want if possible.
I did the same thing with a hardtail Highland, which is basically a nice enough frame hampered by horrible hardware. I now have a dual chainring set using Stone and Absolute Black ovals on a new Shimano BB with 175mm GRX crankarms. I went with all Deore on my drivetrain, a Koozer XM490 freehub, and a shock dropper for the stock saddle. Hydraulic brakes were stock on the Hiland, but the shifters were horrible, so I replaced the rear shifter with a Microshift friction lever, and the one for the front derailleur was handbuilt. Finally the headset and handlebars were replaced with a folding set that has a cheesebar for accessories. I also added front and rear luggage racks. I won't be jumping with this thing, but it's made my Nagoya commute very comfortable and shopping trips are great! The original bike was just south of $300 USD. A third of my parts were bought new, the rest came from previous builds, were hand-built solutions or from second-hand sellers on Mecari, an Etsy-like online store here in Japan. I wouldn't recommend it to anyone, I only did this because I love problems and wanted to learn. Now I'm learning wheel construction and spoke lacing. :)
You didn't account for your time/ labor in the final price. Probably at least $100-150 to swap out all those parts and make those mods. Also, as you pointed out, the seat post is an odd size, so getting a dropper on there is trickier. (You'd have to see about getting a narrow one and use a shim). And I'd say the Trek, Giant, or Canyon frame are better to begin with. Cool experiment, but in the end demonstrated that it's just not worth trying to make a department store bike actually trail worthy.
I think more crucial that the labor are the tools. If you have to buy all the tools just for this bike it's futile. Especially if you don't plan on using them more.
that is probably the same price for the tools he used but he could also borrow them from a friend if they have it or ask around his neighbourhood if he really needed to. Also if you have spare time I feel most mtbers enjoy working on their own bikes, at least i do
thanks for posting. did the same thing to a Ardor 1x and love the result because I love the process of rebuilding. really got to know how things work together...
I like how you have a super nice shop, a rad little shop dog and tons of fancy tools but you don’t have a $15 crown race remover😂. Entertainment value⬆️🙌🏻
I've done something similar myself.. Bought a cheap, second hand bike (a Diamondback Outlook FS) & swapped out tons of parts except basically the frame itself with budget, but not cheap parts such as changing the 3x square taper BB for IXF cranks, Bucklos air forks, etc. To be fair there are UA-camrs out there doing this kind of stuff on Walmart bikes (KevCentral, Wolftick etc) but the value isn't in the price of the parts or the equivalent cost bike from a store.. Doing upgrades on a cheap bike means that you are making the bike individual to you, rather than off the shelf so you are building the bike around you. Other advantages are that you could be on a budget and rather than spending £1000 (I'm in the UK) on a bike in one go, you are buying the bike in manageable chunks you can afford. Add to this, it can be fun and you can learn tons about bike repair, how components stack up and maintenance skills which you can't always do buying a bike from a bike shop, thus saving costs later as you won't alway need to take the bike to the shop for repair.
Seth, thank you for this video! Oh man, it rings so many bells. I've got BCA 29er bike from Walmart 6 month ago for $148, didn't know anything about bikes back then. For the fun of it I've started upgrading it with everything I can. Acera derailleurs front and back ($40), M361 hybrid crankset ($25), Acera shifters ($30), bottom bracket ($12), KMC chain ($15), headset ($18), Rockshox Recon air fork ($190), handlebars and stem ($25), seat with seatpost ($30), pedals ($15), QR axles ($12), 34 teeth Sunrace freewheel ($20), $10 derailleur hanger, $15 grips, Shimano brakes ($50). Except the fork which is a major upgrade to any sub $900 bike, it is $300 right there, lol, making this $148 bike a $450 bike cost wise or a $650 if you add the fork, ahahaha. Not counting all the tools and supplies I had to get for it. And I still have a crappy rear hub with 48 spokes (!!!!) and a freewheel wobble that I may have to upgrade to a new wheel with a cassette (another $120) and a cheap frame without rear disk brake mount. Was it better to get Kent Trouvaille - a much better bike for less money? Absolutely! Do I regret not getting it? No, because I've learned so much about bikes. I do not remember when was the last time I had so much fun as during this project. Watching your videos, reading about parts, how they work, how to replace wheel axles and make the wheels true. To me it was like taking a an advance bike class and paying a $600 fee for it, while getting an OK rideable bike in the process. Just need to keep it secret from my wife so she doesn't kill me, or better yet get her Kent Trouvaille:))))
Also tools. That's an important thing to consider. Most people who would be interested in doing this are unlikely to already have the same tools that you do. So it's an additional $200+ for just the tools that you used in this series. (Bleed kit, crown race setter, hex keys and a screwdriver if they don't have any, two different BB tools, just to cover the basics)
As someone who works as a bike tech for REI, and a former bike mechanic for an independent local shop, I can honestly say that Seth is totally right about the service side of the equation. We want your bike to last and work for you. The best way for that to happen is to get the a decent bike from a reputable retailer. I know that some of the larger REI stores have a division of labor in the bike area, so assemblers and shop techs aren't the same role. Considering that, it may be a good idea to bring your bike in for your free service sooner rather than later to ensure that a tech can go over the bike. If you're buying from a smaller REI or an independent local shop, the bike will be good to go from the jump. The other factor to consider here is labor and tools needed for these upgrades that Seth did to the Kent. It's still going to be cheaper for you to buy a nicer bike and only pay for the fork upgrade instead of paying for all of the labor he has in this bike. All that said, it's still cool to see a bike from Walmart that actually has some "good bones" in it.
I have the exact same Park Tool crank removal tool (10:55) since 1998. It's been working flawlessly for several dozens of crank removals. For the longest time it was the only Park Tool ... tool that I had. Now I also have the Cyclone chain cleaning machine and the stand (which was by far the most expensive purchase of any bike tool at abt. EUR 180. I also have two other bike stands bought at Lidl branded Crivit which cost abt. EUR 30 per piece and which I use all the time, while the Park Tool stand.... stands in the corner as a beauty queen). Also - this guy's decisions about drilling a hole in the frame - and cutting welded parts of the frame off - JUST BECAUSE OF THE LOOKS - can be described as QUESTIONABLE at best. Greetings from Latvia.
I got the Schwinn Taff Comp for $124 and got a Hollow crank and JG chain ring or $40, Ryde Trace 25mm wheel set with Origin8 M3100 and DT Swiss spokes $160, TA axle adapters $30, Wake 730mm bars $25, Acolyte derailleur working with the Advent X 11-48T cassette & shifter $110, Meroca Hydro brakes $50, 180mm front rotor $9, Bolany 32 120mm fork $75. CST Ouster/Rock Hawk clincher tires working tube less $40. Tube less schrader stems, Stans tape and Cream II $40. Bottle cages and Corkie grips $20
@@Wireman134 So like $750 total for a $1,400 bike at a bike shop. FYI entry bike shop Trek's come with steel hubs no sealed bearings and non tube less ready rims.
These videos somehow simultaneously make me think I can do these types of builds myself, and let me know that actually I cannot. Usually the second part sets in when he grabs some special tool that I've never seen before.
Very true. And what's more, the bike came from the store somewhat unrideable due to the headset. This could be a fun project for someone who knows bikes, but few new riders are going to know to spend a bunch of time going over it to make sure it's put together right.
The polygon you found is the retail price. No one pays retail for those bikes. They are always on sale. Right this moment I can get the Xtrada 7 for $849 shipped free. It comes with an RST Aerial 15, Deore 1-12, Deore crankset, and thru axle's front and rear. By far the best bike you've looked at. I've been pricing bikes at bikesonline for a long time and it's extremely rare to pay retail price for them. I have a Polygon Siskiu D6 and didn't pay anywhere close to retail for it.
I broke a 2018 Trek Roscoe 8, so I won't purchase another one from them. On another note, I did hit a KOM on a local black trail with a Ganopper crankset. So they're definitely better than not good! 😂👍 Now regarding riders entering the hobby. I highly recommend one does not attempt upgrading most budget bikes. The fact is that with so many different standards of head sets and bottom brackets, one could waste time and fiat currency ordering the wrong bits. This industry has really over complicated things. Oh, and then chuck in there needing a different tool for every little ol part, and it can quickly become frustrating. Anywho, thanks for the video captain! Great little breakdown.
I also like the idea of buying cheap now, and having that upgrade path possible if you get more into biking as time goes on or have the budget. Also If your on a budget don't ignore the value that you can find by checking out the used bikes in your area.
Did about the same exact upgrades to my gt avalanche 29”. Rockshox fork, pnw dropper, pnw handlebars and grips, 32 tooth front chainring to make it a 1 by, better tires, and shorter headset. Couldn’t be happier. Got all my advice from this channel.
My first bike back into the sport was a 2020 specialized pitch sport. My local bike shop charged me $800. I thought what I was getting was a real mountain bike. Problem was, when I wanted to start making upgrades, I found out what I got was what I got. 2x drivetrain, 27.5 wheels, straight headset, no easy routing for a dropper post, and no real option for a clutch derailleur. I quickly realized that what I got was not a real mountain bike. It soured me on my local bike shop because they weren’t upfront with me on what I was actually getting. I do have a real mountain bike now and it’s a Polygon. My wife now rides the pitch sport. My son is in his 20s with a baby on a tight budget. He wants to get into mountain biking but doesn’t have enough money to drop on a “real” mountain bike. This Kent would be the best option for him but it hasn’t been in stock since this series started. There is no entry level “real” mountain bike on the market that can compete with this Kent Trouvaille.
Sounds like a deal to me. I put over $1k into a Schwinn Axum, best money I ever spent. The only thing stock when I was finished was the frame and crankset. Took it down double black diamond and red lines at Windrock last February and it was a blast!
I still tinker with my old (now wife's) Trek Marlin 5, *because* it's so easy to work on. It taught me a lot on bike maintenance & upgrading that I now use on my Polygon Sisku T8. I'll be the first to admit that it's not for everybody though, and lots of folks would and maybe should just pay the LBS to do things.
I really enjoyed watching this series and if nothing else it shows you can buy this bike on a budget and slowly upgrade over time. For $400 you can ride today and every paycheck or 2 you throw $50 to $100 at it until you have a decent bike.
Have a look at Vitus bikes! In the UK, Chainreaction cycles has a bundle now for the Nucleus for 600£. Vitus are pretty decent bikes, bang for the buck. The bike comes with the same air forks you upgraded, Deore 10 speed groupset, Brand-X dropper, WTB wheelset, Maxxis Ardent tires. Clarks brakes tho. One of my friend had a Nucleus before, and not going to lie, pretty solid bike!
I've been slowly building my Trouvaille up and while I could have gotten a LBS bike I wanted something to learn to work on bikes. I've done a tubeless conversion and changed to knobbier tires. I got some wider more grippy pedals. I changed out the bars and grips for much better ones(the ones when I bought it had one of the bolts stripped out so I couldn't take them off). While MAJOR overkill I put some magura MT7 hydraulic brakes on it. I haven't yet changed my fork and I didn't need to change my crankset/chainring. I love it and I'll continue to make it better.
Here’s where the difference lies for me. I have a like new trouvaille I picked up used on OfferUp for 125. With 450 of upgrades, I’ll only have 575.00 invested in the bike and as you pointed out, it’s an awesome buddy bike/ corner store blaster/ pub crawler once upgraded.
I realize I’m late to the party here, but I wanted to mention something that I’m not sure that you were aware of, Seth. That bike came with a SR Suntour coil fork on it… well, Suntour has an upgrade program, where you send in the serial number on the fork, along with the receipt for the bike, and you are given multiple upgrade options at a much cheaper rate. Suntour actually has some pretty decent entry level air forks, that are really cheap when purchased with the upgrade program. Food for thought! 😁
Don't forget about the tinkerers and doit yourselfers that have more money than sense. I did this with the Schwinn Axum from Walmart. It was expensive and I spent way more money than I should have, but I had an absolute BLAST and I learned a ton. There's not a single part on the bike I didn't replace (sometimes more than once). By the of that journey, there's no issue I am not equipped handle myself, especially since there's no bike shops near by. I still enjoy tuning it and changing bits of trim from time to time. Of course I could never sell it without taking a huge loss but first: I don't intend to, and second: the experience was worth it.
I'm a beginner just now getting the mountain biking bug and I have come to realize my area actually has some nice trails. I had a cheap Sidewinder bike that's been in my shed for a few years so I'd started commuting to work to start conditioning up. My drivetrain failed after just a month and a bit commuting. With the cash I had saved not driving my 9 mpg truck during that time (as well as some rainy day fund) I grabbed a Giordano Intrepid. It came from my local Walmart for $650 in a medium frame with 29" wheels. I believe it has the same tires, still has a heavy sr suntour coil fork but with 120mm of travel, Tektro hydraulic disk brakes, Microshift 10 speed, a great looking frame and probably some other bits I don't know enough about yet... Seemed like a pretty solid improvement over the Trouville for not a lot more money. I only had right around $600 to spend (Had to borrow a little bit from the savings account to cover that remaining bit and tax) This seemed to be the best spec I could find for that price. Hopefully I did ok with it. Time will tell. I did sit on a Trouville they had in stock and considered it, but that large frame just felt too big for me.
I did this with the ozark trail 29". I moved all of the good parts over from my old Haro. Upgrading from a 26" to a 29" was worth it for me. The wheels on the ozark were noticeably cheap so I sprung for spank wheels. I even had leftover money to have a buddy powdercoat the frame to a color I like.
Great video...but scary how you use a hammer and then a hydraulic jack to get that steering tube ring off...not too many beginning bike "Mechanics" would risk doing that (Or have that jack), also special tools are needed to remove the crankshaft and bearings.
This sums up the life of my partner's BMX. Diamondback Viper owned by a downhill racer (gearing modified to suit), she bought it from them for $350, she rode it to work until it fell into disrepair. Some 7 years later we still have it and the start of last year I stripped it, painted it, new gears, cables, wheels and a lot more that was probably overkill. Cost of new stuff was around $450 (AUD) due to the fact we don't stock a damn thing here and shipping is borderline extortion. As far as any $800 on the market (here) it doesn't exactly match in quality but its definitely unique and makes a nice cruiser.
Very good breakdown! The only sense it makes is if you wanna spend less on bike purchase and build what you want, it makes ok sense. Amazon makes it so easy and affordable. Like you said, now it's a good bike but at builder's expense
The problem with this addiction. No matter what bike you get, you always want to upgrade it. So my advice would be to get a frame that fits you well. Then go from there. I'm talking from a bigginer point of view. I bought a used bike then upgraded it, and I love it. Even after getting me a trek full suspension. My hardtail is a great trail bike for me.
For most people on a budget I would recommend a used bike above any department store landfill bike. If you know what to look for you can get an excellent bike from a good price.
Dear Bern, Thank You. Excellent review . You are a bike expert and that is to You advantage. A normal person will not have readily available quality labor like Yours... which for me is what makes the Big difference. You are a problem solver and provide solutions to what you encounter. Regards.
Thank you for the reasonable conclusion. When the series started I was worried you'd recommend this route to people (upgrade Walmart bike instead of buying decent bike from shop). Definitely takes a lot of knowledge to do the work yourself. Paying a bike shop to change out a fork would already add another fifty bucks. Where I wish you'd explore some is for people to either buy a frame, or find a beater bike as a frame donor. I found an old beat up trek. Unrideable, but the frame is aluminium and in good condition (and decent geometry by modern standards). I got it for fifty bucks and frankly, if you are going to change out all the parts anyway, it's much less wasteful to start out with just the frame.
My first “real mountain bike” was a hardtail that was upgraded similarly on a 2012 entry level trek frame. I absolutely agree with your conclusion, but you didn’t dig in to one of the major reasons as much as i would have. The lack of a dropper post is the largest nail in the coffin for me. That was pretty much my first upgrade. I think a dropper post and brakes and the most important upgrades to be able to progress as a rider safely. If it’ll never have a dropper post, I wouldn’t put a dime into it. Great video, thanks for doing this project! Brought back a lot of memories!
I think this speaks to a huge issue in the industry. Even low end starter bikes from reputable manufactures are out of the price range for many families. I’ve become a bit of a neighborhood bike mechanic because it’s just not ok to take a $200 bike to get serviced at a bike shop for $100. A $200 bike from Walmart will last possibly one year without any maintenance, probably even less when the kids riding them watch UA-camrs riding sweet trails on nice bikes. As much as buying a low end bike like this and putting upgrades into it is not the best idea, it’s a good way for a family on a budget to test out the sport while not breaking the bank. I’ve also always been of the mindset that you buy the best bike you can afford and then tack on newer and better components to improve the bike until you either destroy the bike or can afford the next jump in price. One of my favorite bikes was a Marin that I continually upgraded to make it more capable!
With any tool buy cheap and if you break it you use it enough to warrant spending some wedge on the replacement. Same with bikes, I got a Giant Talon 3 for £400, loved it, upgraded it, still outgrew that spent 2k on a Whyte T130. So if you're wondering if MTB is for you, spend a little, see how it goes. Or buy an expensive bike and sell it on ebay a few months later for pennies, we love those.
I got a Kent trouvaille for my son to gauge his interest. I like customization and upgrading as I go. Also, the Kent frame is definitely more of a medium than a large, despite what Kent might label it as.
for the nearly same price of polygon you can get one of the scotts aspect series bikes. personally I've been using aspect 930 fro some time and it feels pretty good
I have a similar "cheap" big box store hard tail, a 27.5 Gira Terreno. The bike followed a very similar upgrade path to the one in this video over a couple years of riding the hell out of it and upgrading parts as the originals wore out. Sure, I've turned a $350 bike into an $800 bike, but I did so over the course of a couple thousand miles... and now I know ever single bolt on that bike, what it does and how to fix it. Don't get me wrong, when this thing finally dies, I'm replacing it with a higher quality bike, but I'm kind of glad I started with a cheap bike and built it into exactly what I wanted by putting miles on parts and learning what worked for me and what didn't.
I have the roscoe 7, and I have ridden a Kent upgraded similarly to this. The Kent didn't feel too bad, but it was noticeably worse than the roscoe. Not a bad bike to learn to wrench on.
I am currently upgrading my Schwinn Al comp and the pros to this is that I can ride it as I upgrade it and I don't have to buy all the parts at once. the other pro that I reconized is that I am learning to repair and fix bikes. it is a hobby with me right now. I love tinkering with stuff and this is a tinkers paradise.
I would recommend performing a budget build. For the best example used here, Canyon , $899; a budget build will fund a lot. 1st the entry level XCM30 fork is not bad at all. That can be the last thing to upgrade. 2nd, learning your bike in detail will allow a higher appreciation, hence better your skills. Lastly, planning the build perfectly in your mind before you buy will go beyond fun. You can post your build for sale at your value and see what your value is in real time. Having a bin of reliable parts is a must. In conclusion, if you include the taxes, $825 is $893. That includes the knowledge you acquire, extra good parts to sell or reuse, bragging rights, confidence, skills, and fun.
I did something like this with an abandoned bike. While it had a grocery store sticker on it the hydraulic guides hinted the frame was probably used for much better specs than what it had. Spent about £400 on everything. And it's in it's 5th year of service. Kid managed to break the spare square taper bottom bracket which I upgraded shortly after to hollowtech. Only other things I've done is change grips and tyres.
I can see your point ,when you say don't go the upgrade route. The point is it does have some benefits, in my eyes quite major ones. 1. You start riding sooner, if you are on a budget. True, you have to watch where you're going, and maybe even pay more attention to the condition of certain parts, but you're out on the trails, you're riding! 2. You can do upgrades at your own pace, as your budget allows. 3. You will learn more about bike mechanics, as you keep installing the parts. 4. And the lower entry price might give you space in your budget for decent quality riding gear. Yeah, "proper" bikes are awesome, but i think there is still space for bikes like the Kent. They can serve as gateway "drugs", that get people riding.
Great video and good conclusion. Almost two years ago I bought a Cube AIM EX for my wife for €632. It came with 3x9, which I replaced directly with a 1x11 dt with clutch from the partsbin together with a new Deore crankset. It already has hydraulic brakes, but still the coilspring SR Suntour. The fork is good enough over here in the Netherlands for the rides my wife does. If I upgrade the fork, the price of the bike with the new parts will go to around €900-1000. Then you come in the range of bikes which already have all the upgraded parts and possible even 12-speed. For me it is just fun to work on bikes and to upgrade it, if it is not your hobby: save some extra cash and buy a bike in the €900-1000 price range.
Hi Seth back in those days people used to spent over 2 - 3 k nice high end bikes after pandemic people buy low budget bikes and build from scratch... I'm a bicycle mechanic over 20 years I had build a lot without complete bike from the box just parts to choose from and make good looking ride !!!!
I appreciate the comparisons of lower end bikes. I’ve got 4 growing boys who I’m trying to keep in better than decent bikes without breaking the bank.
Yes! Giant talon 2 has everything the Kent has for less money, would highly recommend!
@@Nibot99_HALLOOO thanks for the tip! I’ve been keeping an eye on Facebook marketplace as well.
look at vitus bike, they do the best value bikes
Four of them? You should've had them play basketball instead! I bought my son a Commencal Meta for my son last year, and between upgrades he got for his birthday at Christmas, plus trips to the bike park, it's cost me a small fortune. Not to mention my own bike.
All seriousness though, I've spent countless hours riding with him, took at least 6-7 trips to the bike park, plus a week in Killington. Best money I've ever spent, and wouldn't change it for the world!
Trinx has some good budget bikes, they currently have 250$ bikes with hydraulics, deore and 29" wheels.
As a long time mechanic I’ve loved this series to help show customers what they are getting when they buy a bike from a shop!
2nd
As long as you get it from a shop that knows what it's doing! The setup on my Ripmo was a bit of a disaster and I had to fix a pile of stuff myself (including replacing the crank preload bolt that had been overtightened to the point of snapping in two). Sadly there are very few Ibis dealers in my area but at least now I know to spend my money elsewhere. The bike is awesome after being set up properly.
The other key thing IMO you get with a real bike from a real shop (or DTC model)... is a warranty.
@@TheBRad704 yup some brands like trek offer lifetime warranties too and even discounted carbon frames if you happen to crash it
they pretty much have only the frame of the walmart bike left haha
One thing to keep in mind with these. You could go riding at $350ish. You can then go upgrade as you have budget. This is particularly useful for like students who maybe don't have a steady income stream so they are really limited to the funds they have in the moment. "Just save up" might take them a really long time. With this you don't have to drop that whole $850-$900 at once. A lot of these comparison videos like this make the same mistake. It isn't just about the final total spent.
Exactly! It's the Kev-Central model. Buy a cheap bike, ride it, and slowly upgrade as you get the funds. Yes, you spend more money in the end, for a slightly worse bike in some regards. But at the end of the day you saved potentially years of not being able to ride at all! And that's worth far more than any extra money spent in the end! Not to mention now you have a bike that's really truly "yours" and not the same as anyone else's, and speced out to how you want it.
it also teaches you about your bike, working on it, upgrading parts, you'll become more self-sufficient.
Also to keep in mind you drop 900 on a bike your going to be scared to do crazy things on it and kind of lose the whole learning experience where a cheaper bike if you crash and scratch it up its ok it didnt break the bank and you might have change to upgrade if something broke. I prefer cheaper bikes you make your own because like Dom torreto say a real racer knows exactly whats under the hood haha it makes better sense putting on parts you want but again buy cheap is expensive at the end
@@BeetleBuns yup learning from the worst is always the bes realistic thing. Hell learning from the best is also the same. Just gotta give time learn stuff the whole deal I guess but not asmuch fun as the cheap stuff
So just finance it. Then u also get to build credit and u also get the better product. Obviously there’s some situations that ppl can’t finance but u get the point.
Something i'd like to add is that for some of us, there is fun to be had in progressivly working on and upgrading our equipment. I won't get the most out of a $900 bike, but getting a bike for a few hundred (or an old hardtail for much less) and working on it for a few years is fun in its own way.
The highend old hardtail is a far better option.
After almost 15 years I was finally in the market for a new MTB. I literally saw the Kent Trouvaille in Walmart yesterday. I googled it and your videos popped up first thing! I went through the whole series in store and it helped me make the decision to pick it up. The bike was actually marked clearance at $150 (398 online). At that price and with the upgraded crankset and hydraulic brakes you recommended, I think i will have a decent entry level bike I can build upon. Thank you for your honesty and your detailed breakdowns. You have earned yourself a follower!
thats a great deal for it its a good bike even for 400 so 150 is great
at that point you can do the upgrades he did and end up getting very good value for like 600 dollars
Also bought it @ $150 this past spring 💪🏻😂 had no clue it would be such a great buy!
get a set of Avid BB5 brakes (mechanical) as they will stop you just like hydro brakes. If you go hydro brakes, you much buy the whole set with levers, brakes lines and then for most, spend $$ at a bike shop for labor. The Avid BB5 or BB7 are great and bolt right on without changing brake levers or lines. Easy install. The crank on this bike is fine and no need to change it out. This guy with all the upgrades is not doing anyone a favor with a spending total that will get you more bang for the buck by going with a higher end bike in the $500+ range.
Same. Just bought a medium size for my daughter on clearance for $127. Perfect first mountain bike for her. We'll upgrade as she gets better.🤙
This is such a valuable series for those looking to get into MTB on a budget. I think it's important to mention though, that it's essential to support your local bike shops as often as you can because they keep this community going!
I would but they cost over triple what the internet does! And they don't have an awful lot of stock and push their sponsor's stuff
@@lindenwatson3316 That's why I said "as often as possible", because it's not always viable for some people, and it depends on the shop.
It’s worth doing if you consider the value of maybe learning about basic bike mechanics. If this is your first bike, and you haven’t wrenched before, there is intrinsic value in education. If you just want the best bike, I still think a department store brand for most people will be hit or miss.
I bought two used department store bikes and built them up for my dad and I... It was a great learning experience. Worth every penny to know how to repair and replace, without destroying a nicer ride with a mistake. Buuuuut, having a nicer bike from the store is also a delight.
@@askdrew98 but why waste money on a Walmart special used when a name brand is easy to afford used and way easier to work on since they are really supposed with good parts and can be upgraded to grow with you if your serious about riding compared to the Walmart special that can't continue to be upgraded because it will not be compatible with much after market upgrade parts
I was about to say the same thing. I bought a similar budget bike (Nishiki Colorado Comp) and liked the idea of being able to learn how to work on bikes as I go. I also like the idea of not having to spend a big amount all at once, and can upgrade and customize my bike in stages.
I see what you are saying and I agree, sort of. For a very first ("real") bike some of the upgrades are a bit outside of the scope of a beginner. Especially replacing the fork and derailleur.
I think if you need a decent bike right now, getting one of the name brad options and learning basic upkeep maintenance first might be a better way than diving straight into replacements, unless you can space them out over time.
You can get a Cannondale Trail 8 for $645
You have said yourself that you are a cycling advocate, and this goes one step further in proving that. We can appreciate the video showing how a beginner (or even a young kid, with not a lot of money for a high end bike) can buy his/her own starter bike, then upgrade it gradually as they see the need, without having to dish out almost 1k+ upfront. Well done.
I appreciate your series! I've been wanting to get into MTB for years and this series is what actually made me pull the trigger last summer on the Giordano Intrepid from Walmart. One thing to mention is that while the cost savings is questionable, you learn a lot about bike service and maintenance through the process and can make future bikes/upgrades a breeze :)
Same! I bought an old bike, we'll see if it can be upgraded!
Motorcyclists here chiming in. You nailed it when you spoke about the dealer cycle shop experience. The Walmart is one and done; once you buy the bike, your on your own for service support. Buying a bike from an authorize dealer will give an owner future support for any customization's.
Harley-Davidson is perhaps the best example of this business model. H-D dealers don't just sell a motorcycle, they sell a whole ownership experience. When buying a Harley, a prospect should really be scrutinizing the dealership because that's really what's being sold. The major Japanese brands have not been nearly as successful with this type of dealer-to-customer support. They are better at cloning the actual motorcycle then they are at establishing dealer-to-owner experience IMHO.
Great video!
The saga with this bike is quite the ride. I think we'll see it next on a flip bike episode
I bought a bike from Halfords (UK chain auto/bike/sporting store) for around the price bracket of the Kent. I think what this video demonstrates best is that I could probably do some essential and high value upgrades to my current bike to get it to be really something quite good. Its definitely inspired me to look into a 1x conversion.
As someone who rides a Polygon and has helped someone pick a new starter bike recently, I'd say Giant is probably your best value for an entry level hardtail but Polygon takes the cake when you get into full-sus (granted Fezzari and 1 other company that starts with a V also have some good value)
Vitus!!! Mythique is some bang for buck
@sydneydowd8969 yep that's the one. I was stuck between that and my Siskiu T7. Ultimately, I decided to just get whatever came in stock first. Fortunately for me I got the bike that probably suits my riding more but both were great options
Polygon is still best value for starter hardtails too because they are always on sale. It was Xtrada 5 that got compared in the video but at current available prices it could have been a Xtrada 7 with Deore 12 speed, air fork and thru axles.
I own a pair of Polygon (T7 & DSE), and I agree. The hardtails like the Extrada are a little more expensive for what you're getting (so like the Trek), but the Siskiu line is perfect. Just disappointed the Extrada 7 doesn't have a dropper still. That's like the final thing they should've given it. Also disappointed Polygon doesn't have something to compete with the Marin San Quinton. A rowdy trail/bike park style hardtail.
11:09 I don't need more long term relationships than I already have, tyvm, haha.
It's best if you balance a good enough cheap base platform with whatever tuning you're ABLE to do yourself reliably without damaging/compromising anything.
If skilled above average - pay 400 and go all out, if inexperienced - pay 800 and maybe replace the saddle :)
It pays off learning to DIY as the 400 base (with upgrades worth 400) WILL be better than the stock 800 base in the end (or equal, but for less money)
I started my mountain bike journey about 7 years ago on a Genisys bike from Walmart. By the end of that first season I spent most of my trail time fixing and tightening that bike up. By the next summer I had a used Giant Talon 1. Huge upgrade, Walmart bikes have their place, just not on the trail.
There's a kind of rider who can benefit from this experiment with the Kent Trouvaille. The kind of rider who is really watching the budget, and is just trying out mountain biking. After a few fun months riding, you can tell there are limitations to the bike, so you upgrade here and there, working on it yourself, instead of upgrading to an $850 Trek, because you know even selling your Walmart bike used, you can't make back the original money you spent on it. So this way is cheaper, as long as you can do the work yourself. It's so great that you really can upgrade this dept. store bike. At the end, you have a bike that has advanced as its rider has advanced. Maybe soon, you can justify another upgrade, to a much better bike than this upgraded Walmart one or an $850 Trek, etc. As someone whose mountain bike is a pre-2010 Specialised Hardrock, I like this series.
Something alot of people aren't aware of if you get a suntour fork new (be at it after market or OEM bike spec) , register the warranty you can then get money off a new upgrade fork from suntour I had a polygon xtrada 5 and got £75 off when upgrading the OEM xcm fork (I didn't use it but it's nice to have that option (
Seriously, Suntour needs to market this better. I have an old Specialized Hard Rock that came with a very cheap Suntour fork, but for a couple hundred bucks I was able to get it upgraded to a Raidon, which is such a drastically better fork. When I asked my bike shop about the upgrade program they had no idea. They had to contact SR Suntour to confirm it was actually a thing. And they probably sell dozens, if not hundreds of bikes with Suntour forks every year.
When ever I see people with suntour,be it when I worked in a bike shop or on forums etc I tell them about, yeah it's only really limited to a step or 2 up from what you have but in a lot of cases it's going from a coil to air fork which can make a world of difference
Sadly only appears to be available for the North American market, still great to make folks aware.
@@44Needles and Europe ,I'm in the UK and I got it pretty easily
@@kierangraves1747 interesting, I couldn't see anything on their website, got a link? I'm eyeing up bikes around £600 at the moment and most have Suntour forks, so thinking about future upgrades
Another good option could be something from Specialized, like their Rockhopper Comp. For $713 (with the sale), your getting SRAM hydralic brakes, 1x9 microShift Advent drivetrain, and a good looking bike with different color and size options. Yes, it does come with a SR Suntour coil fork, but because it is cheaper than the Trouvaille, you can spend to replace the fork with the one shown in the video (SR Suntour XCR). With the fork upgrade, its only about ~$100 more if your trying to get something that already has a great start and upgrade from there.
It doesnt have a tapered headtube so your limited in what you can put on. The Trek and the Canyon have tapered headtubes.
For 800€ I got an Orbea Laufey with about 100kms, guy got back pain and was getting rid of the bike. Equiped with slx gear, Mt500 (or 200) brakes and rockshox Recon. Slapped Xt brakes and I’m having fun.
I think that in good condition used bikes is a best bet.
The Rose Count solo 1 ist 850€ and gets you 1*11 Deore mt200 brakes and a Judy Air fork.
@@spyder027 The Trek Marlin and Grand Canyon bikes have straight headtubes. You would have to go for the Trek Roscoe and Canyon STCHD to get tapered tubes (1200USD at least).
@@spyder027 Oh my bad. From a first glance it looks like it would.
I don't have a lot of incomes buying relatively cheap and upgrading is the only way for me to eventually have a good bike.
And let's be honest, i really enjoy the process, every spring, buying and installing new stuff, tuning the bike all summer and start all over again the next years.
That is very smart!!
I found a used Nishiki Pueblo for $100 at Play it again sports. It definitely needs upgrades! It works ok for now, but can’t wait to work on it this winter!
Here in Europe you can get things like either a Cube attention SL with better specs on every level, 12speed deore, Rockshox judy, hydraulic discs for $812. The Trek Marlin 6 gen3 is only $801, a Marlin 7 $866. A Scott Aspect 740 for $790. Too many options to sum up really, all cheaper than the Kent with upgrades.
The trek Marlin 7 in MN is running around 1000$ these days and hard to find.
Here in Indonesia we can get 27.5 XC with Shimano XT 12 speed with Rockshox Judy for $812. The only donwside is not using shimano casette. And there is many local bike company sell bike with deore group set with air fork under $700.
Thanks!
The Kent is a perfect bike for someone who can’t afford $800 up front on a bike, but has enough knowledge and skill to upgrade it themselves. As a kid I always upgraded my bmx bikes myself, and learned how to properly maintain them. As an adult now, I can do pretty much any upgrade I want on a mtb as long as I have the tools.
Yeah, slowly upgrade it over time. The bike upgrades as the biking/mech skills upgrade. Don't need to upgrade the hydraulic brakes until you want to start attempting the harder downhills, etc.
It's the smart play.
Suggesting otherwise is like buying a brand new car without having any knowledge of how it works.
Shops for maintenance is a great thing, but they're not necessary for everyone.
Hard to justify spending more money just because a company has techs.
Did this same thing! Got a mongoose ardor put a new fork, dropper, 1x, and some old shimano brakes and routinely take it out in CO! Handles like a dream!
Feedback appreciated🙏
I have a presnt for you 🎁 ☝👆
For the canyon comparison, you couldve looked at the canyon stoic 2. for 899$ you get that srsuntour air fork, deore 1x12 drivetrain and so on. So i think the stoic 2 has the best value of all bikes at that pricepoint
Thats true and the frame is much much better
The vitus nucleus here in the uk is a lot better value. It comes with hydraulic brakes, dropper post, a good drive train and the same suntour air fork for £600 ($730) but that's including tax as well.
@@nebnollock5198 yeah but it costs quite a lot to import to the us. Evan's talked about this previously, i think he mentioned an import price somewhere at about 100$, so it would be very close to the canyon again
@@iljamuraschov yeah that's fair enough, sucks they don't sell out of the US, canyons are pretty bad value over here, the stoic 2 is £900 ($1100)
@@nebnollock5198 what really?! How does that make sense, canyon is a Company based in germany, is that due to brexit with shipping fees or is it just normally that high?
Cheap bike plus future upgrades is way more fun and educational choice if you are starter who wants to have a real hobby and appreciate many aspects of the process and life. I doubt it would be a better bike but it will make you definitely a better person, bike mechanic and it is way more fun. If you have more experience I would definitely buy the more expensive and better bike because you will have the foundation and appreciation of what you have bought.
The thing I liked about the Kent Trouville was the affordability. It offered me the chance to get the bike and see if it was something I would enjoy, then if I chose to do the upgrades, I could. I wasn't out $800 right off the bat to find out if mtb was for me or not. I found that I liked it, and decided to continue. Knowing that its something I enjoy, my next one will definitely be one of higher quality/serviceability. As for my Kent, I've done most of the upgrades you did, except I did a seat change. The one that still has me thinking is the fork upgrade. Seeing the process of how to install a new fork is a little intimidating (which upgrading can be a big negative if you aren't mechanically inclined when buying a cheap bike). I'm over an hour away from any real mountain bike shops, and wouldn't even know where to start if I looked for one. So I was able to get a ton of information about the sport, the tools, and the knowledge that goes along with owning and servicing my own mountain bike. They sure have changed a lot since I was a kid! Now if I could just find the perfect video to walk me through a fork swap with common tools, lol.
I did a fork replacement on an older bike of mine by myself, and it's not terribly hard. BUT I did end up going out and buying a bike workstand to actually make it easier to do, and honestly I would have struggled without at least some sort of stand unless I had a second person; and I ended up needing to take my new fork to a local bike shop to have them set the star nut for me, since I didn't want to go buy a tool for it or take the risk of hammering it in sideways (they were happy to do that for free, but yeah if you're an hour away from a shop, that's gonna be a tough sell).
I'd say if you're semi-comfy with basic mechanical stuff and maybe don't mind buying a cheap specialty tool or two, it's worth the effort. But otherwise, if you don't mind that one-hour trip, I'd also definitely look into asking one of those bike shops what they charge for a fork install, my local shop would have done the whole thing for me for about $35USD and would have totally been worth it.
Swapping the fork is actually easier than you think. I did it myself for the first time. I, however didn't cut the fork down enough so the top cap wouldn't fit so I just added a spacer on top. I used a grinder to cut the steerer tube, but a hack saw or pipe cutter can work. Just watch tutorials and you'll be okay
Vitus Nucleus, picked one up new for my daughter new for £600 UK and the only thing it was missing was a dropper. Came with decent Clarkes brakes and Suntour Air fork and 1x11. I Put a Brand-X 150mm dropper and some decent pedals on, set her sag and she's off! Amazing value bike, I've also bought a Vitus E-Sommet and it's amazing, just put a PNW Loam Lever on it.
I have the same bike put some used 32mm Fox forks (150E) and a decent saddle and it has been flawless for the last 3years.
This is an awesome comparison! You never mentioned that on the Trek or Canon, you can fit dropper posts as well. The one thing you really wanted to do on the Kent travail.
Yeah you can always go cheaper on items but usually the ones that are a little more expensive are for good reason. The amount of money that you have to put into research and development, it's a big cost increase on products that people forget about and usually only the large companies are really making that big spend
Doesn’t Suntour also have a trade in so you can get an air fork cheaply??
@@MichaelRei99yes
On the note of a dropper: I don't think a mountain bike can be considered a "real" mountain bike without one. It does more than just make a bike more fun, it makes it safer when doing anything remotely chunky. I have a marlin 8 and the dropper was the single most noticeable and important thing I did to the bike. The fact that plenty of real manufacturers ship mountain bikes without them stock, is a bummer. But not being able to fit one at all rules out a bike as a mountain bike in my opinion.
@@michaeltavener9959 If you do XC your trails are not that chunky. If they are then just set your saddle lower. Droppers are not necessary.
Kent is an extremely large company - probably larger than Trek or Specialized and definitely larger than Canyon - It just doesn't produce top cutting edge bikes as that is not its customer base. Not everyone needs or can afford even an entry level Trek - the thing with the Kent is you can start off at a low investment and as time and finances permit -build it to specs that meet the higher priced models. I am a Specialized bike enthusiast so I don't have any issues with the high end brands and recognize not everyone can build up their own bike - but it is possible to enjoy biking without paying for a name.
Dude. I got a Trouvaille from WM based on your vids. I had a 10yr old GT stolen from me and I've not been without a bike since childhood. Let me just say...for the price, the Kent is decent. I've not upgraded anything. Having said that, I have spent plenty of time adjusting components. Specifically brakes.
While this bike is not the Nukeproof that I'd like to have, it does the job for me right now. Having been in North GA and ridden many of the premier tracks there, I would probably not take the Trouvaille out there. Just not confident in it. But where I am now, on the eastern coast, within a mile of the ocean, it is perfect. I can hop curbs, wheelie, sprint, coast and have a leisure ride and know that my bike can perform.
Keep up the fantastic content! Many of us appreciate it and will keep absorbing what you deliver.
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I’ve done these type of projects on a Mongoose Ardor and a Schwinn Al Comp and learning how to build an entire bike was worth it alone. Though I’ve now spent like 400 on Park Tool alone.
Feedback appreciated🙏
I have a presnt for you 🎁 ☝👆.
So the common argument is to compare total cost vs buying a comparable bike up front. What’s missing is that, you can upgrade at your pace and spend when you want. Big upfront purchases are harder. For my dad who’s 62, we bought the Kent last summer and added mt200 brakes. That got him riding and seeing if he liked it. This year we are doing a little more to it in prep for the second season. At the end of the day, he’ll either buy a new frame and swap over the upgraded components we’ve bought, or he’ll be done with it and I’ll have a nice hard tail to use.
So yeah if you just wanna upgrade immediately and all at once, that’s not a good idea. But I’d budget is tight and you’re exploring the sport, that’s where this option shines.
You can throw different dropper seat tube sizes and use a cane creek shim adapter. Works perfectly.
Thats what I did for mine. 27.2 to 30.4 Cane Creek Shim and it works great
Exactly, I've been running shims on droppers with no issues for years.
Shim = beer can
@@niclaskarlin "Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance"
I loved this series! It was informative, entertaining, and frankly... Fun! I also agree 100% with the conclusion--the cheapo bike may get some things right, but it's not a better value in the end (especially, if you are injured before finishing the various modifications). Moreover, the comparison left out three important, real-world factors that push still harder against the Trouvaille: 1) those name brand bikes are routinely on sale for less than MSRP; 2) we should all put a value on our time; and 3) the best values out there (hands down!) are in the used market. Buy your friend's old bike when he upgrades--$500, plus a professional tune-up will take you far!
seth you forgot the canyon stoic!! its only 850 dollars and comes with a much better 140mm suntour fork!!
Bought my first mountain bike because of this series ! A Kent Trouvalle ! Haven’t had no problems I’ve never worked on a bike till I bought this one. Planning a berm peak trip in march and I can’t wait honestly I am upgrading it from all the parts you did advise
Glad to have the Kent make another appearance!
Brilliant video!!! You don't even know how much do riders all over the world learn from you, and for that we're extremely grateful!!!
👆👆👆Congratulations fan you've👆👆👆 been selected among my shortlisted winner 🎁🎁🎁.
it's always a good idea to buy the best bike you can afford. you will usually spend more money upgrading a less capable bike in the long run. but, if $400 is all you can spend, the kent is a worthy platform. upgrading also forces the learning process. Seth, amazon sells an adjustable reamer that will let you safely drill the seat post tube out to 30.9mm. another youtuber did this without incident. great video, bro.
Excellent points. I think sometimes what gets lost in this conversation about best value bike is some people who would buy the kent trouvaille simply can't afford $800+ for a bike all at once. Upgrade as you can afford plus the learning process can make sense for people on a budget as long as you end up with something you'll be happy with. I would probably lean more toward save money long enough for the bike store bike you want if possible.
I did the same thing with a hardtail Highland, which is basically a nice enough frame hampered by horrible hardware. I now have a dual chainring set using Stone and Absolute Black ovals on a new Shimano BB with 175mm GRX crankarms. I went with all Deore on my drivetrain, a Koozer XM490 freehub, and a shock dropper for the stock saddle. Hydraulic brakes were stock on the Hiland, but the shifters were horrible, so I replaced the rear shifter with a Microshift friction lever, and the one for the front derailleur was handbuilt. Finally the headset and handlebars were replaced with a folding set that has a cheesebar for accessories. I also added front and rear luggage racks.
I won't be jumping with this thing, but it's made my Nagoya commute very comfortable and shopping trips are great! The original bike was just south of $300 USD. A third of my parts were bought new, the rest came from previous builds, were hand-built solutions or from second-hand sellers on Mecari, an Etsy-like online store here in Japan. I wouldn't recommend it to anyone, I only did this because I love problems and wanted to learn. Now I'm learning wheel construction and spoke lacing. :)
You didn't account for your time/ labor in the final price. Probably at least $100-150 to swap out all those parts and make those mods. Also, as you pointed out, the seat post is an odd size, so getting a dropper on there is trickier. (You'd have to see about getting a narrow one and use a shim). And I'd say the Trek, Giant, or Canyon frame are better to begin with. Cool experiment, but in the end demonstrated that it's just not worth trying to make a department store bike actually trail worthy.
I think more crucial that the labor are the tools. If you have to buy all the tools just for this bike it's futile. Especially if you don't plan on using them more.
@@axialmount5571 that's true! He did use several tools that cost hundreds of dollars that the average Joe wouldn't buy (like the crown race setter).
that is probably the same price for the tools he used but he could also borrow them from a friend if they have it or ask around his neighbourhood if he really needed to. Also if you have spare time I feel most mtbers enjoy working on their own bikes, at least i do
thanks for posting. did the same thing to a Ardor 1x and love the result because I love the process of rebuilding. really got to know how things work together...
I like how you have a super nice shop, a rad little shop dog and tons of fancy tools but you don’t have a $15 crown race remover😂. Entertainment value⬆️🙌🏻
I've done something similar myself.. Bought a cheap, second hand bike (a Diamondback Outlook FS) & swapped out tons of parts except basically the frame itself with budget, but not cheap parts such as changing the 3x square taper BB for IXF cranks, Bucklos air forks, etc. To be fair there are UA-camrs out there doing this kind of stuff on Walmart bikes (KevCentral, Wolftick etc) but the value isn't in the price of the parts or the equivalent cost bike from a store.. Doing upgrades on a cheap bike means that you are making the bike individual to you, rather than off the shelf so you are building the bike around you.
Other advantages are that you could be on a budget and rather than spending £1000 (I'm in the UK) on a bike in one go, you are buying the bike in manageable chunks you can afford.
Add to this, it can be fun and you can learn tons about bike repair, how components stack up and maintenance skills which you can't always do buying a bike from a bike shop, thus saving costs later as you won't alway need to take the bike to the shop for repair.
the bike wasn't put together by animals. the people who put the bike together are EMPLOYED by animals.
Seth, thank you for this video! Oh man, it rings so many bells. I've got BCA 29er bike from Walmart 6 month ago for $148, didn't know anything about bikes back then. For the fun of it I've started upgrading it with everything I can. Acera derailleurs front and back ($40), M361 hybrid crankset ($25), Acera shifters ($30), bottom bracket ($12), KMC chain ($15), headset ($18), Rockshox Recon air fork ($190), handlebars and stem ($25), seat with seatpost ($30), pedals ($15), QR axles ($12), 34 teeth Sunrace freewheel ($20), $10 derailleur hanger, $15 grips, Shimano brakes ($50). Except the fork which is a major upgrade to any sub $900 bike, it is $300 right there, lol, making this $148 bike a $450 bike cost wise or a $650 if you add the fork, ahahaha. Not counting all the tools and supplies I had to get for it. And I still have a crappy rear hub with 48 spokes (!!!!) and a freewheel wobble that I may have to upgrade to a new wheel with a cassette (another $120) and a cheap frame without rear disk brake mount. Was it better to get Kent Trouvaille - a much better bike for less money? Absolutely! Do I regret not getting it? No, because I've learned so much about bikes. I do not remember when was the last time I had so much fun as during this project. Watching your videos, reading about parts, how they work, how to replace wheel axles and make the wheels true. To me it was like taking a an advance bike class and paying a $600 fee for it, while getting an OK rideable bike in the process. Just need to keep it secret from my wife so she doesn't kill me, or better yet get her Kent Trouvaille:))))
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Also tools. That's an important thing to consider. Most people who would be interested in doing this are unlikely to already have the same tools that you do. So it's an additional $200+ for just the tools that you used in this series. (Bleed kit, crown race setter, hex keys and a screwdriver if they don't have any, two different BB tools, just to cover the basics)
🤔
I just used a block of wood and a rubber mallet to set my crown race
@@spyder027 spare PVC pipe
As someone who works as a bike tech for REI, and a former bike mechanic for an independent local shop, I can honestly say that Seth is totally right about the service side of the equation. We want your bike to last and work for you. The best way for that to happen is to get the a decent bike from a reputable retailer. I know that some of the larger REI stores have a division of labor in the bike area, so assemblers and shop techs aren't the same role. Considering that, it may be a good idea to bring your bike in for your free service sooner rather than later to ensure that a tech can go over the bike. If you're buying from a smaller REI or an independent local shop, the bike will be good to go from the jump.
The other factor to consider here is labor and tools needed for these upgrades that Seth did to the Kent. It's still going to be cheaper for you to buy a nicer bike and only pay for the fork upgrade instead of paying for all of the labor he has in this bike.
All that said, it's still cool to see a bike from Walmart that actually has some "good bones" in it.
I was an automotive mechanic for a decade, and it co fuses me when people talk about labor on a bike lol.
You should definitely check out the Giordano Intrepid. It looks like an awesome bike for a department store bike.
I ownd both and hand down a better bike
Great way to learn how the basics of maintenance and parts replacement of your MTB! Thank you for the share. 😎👍🏽
Seth is the father of so many mtbers he can't even imagine
I have the exact same Park Tool crank removal tool (10:55) since 1998. It's been working flawlessly for several dozens of crank removals. For the longest time it was the only Park Tool ... tool that I had. Now I also have the Cyclone chain cleaning machine and the stand (which was by far the most expensive purchase of any bike tool at abt. EUR 180. I also have two other bike stands bought at Lidl branded Crivit which cost abt. EUR 30 per piece and which I use all the time, while the Park Tool stand.... stands in the corner as a beauty queen). Also - this guy's decisions about drilling a hole in the frame - and cutting welded parts of the frame off - JUST BECAUSE OF THE LOOKS - can be described as QUESTIONABLE at best. Greetings from Latvia.
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I spent less than that with better wheel set. Using the Schwinn Taff Comp $124 bike
I got the Schwinn Taff Comp for $124 and got a Hollow crank and JG chain ring or $40, Ryde Trace 25mm wheel set with Origin8 M3100 and DT Swiss spokes $160, TA axle adapters $30, Wake 730mm bars $25, Acolyte derailleur working with the Advent X 11-48T cassette & shifter $110, Meroca Hydro brakes $50, 180mm front rotor $9, Bolany 32 120mm fork $75. CST Ouster/Rock Hawk clincher tires working tube less $40. Tube less schrader stems, Stans tape and Cream II $40. Bottle cages and Corkie grips $20
@@Wireman134 So like $750 total for a $1,400 bike at a bike shop. FYI entry bike shop Trek's come with steel hubs no sealed bearings and non tube less ready rims.
The Vitus Nucleus VR or VRS is a really good shout, air forks and hydraulic brakes as standard with better wheels and much better finishing kit.
Having tools, knowledge, time needs to be accounted for. Not everyone has all the skills required to do these upgrades.
These videos somehow simultaneously make me think I can do these types of builds myself, and let me know that actually I cannot. Usually the second part sets in when he grabs some special tool that I've never seen before.
@@JayCAlan Some parts require specific tools, and sometimes even unconventional hack methods
Exactly!!
🤔
Very true. And what's more, the bike came from the store somewhat unrideable due to the headset. This could be a fun project for someone who knows bikes, but few new riders are going to know to spend a bunch of time going over it to make sure it's put together right.
The polygon you found is the retail price. No one pays retail for those bikes. They are always on sale. Right this moment I can get the Xtrada 7 for $849 shipped free. It comes with an RST Aerial 15, Deore 1-12, Deore crankset, and thru axle's front and rear. By far the best bike you've looked at. I've been pricing bikes at bikesonline for a long time and it's extremely rare to pay retail price for them. I have a Polygon Siskiu D6 and didn't pay anywhere close to retail for it.
Any day Seth uploads a new video is a good day👍🏿
I broke a 2018 Trek Roscoe 8, so I won't purchase another one from them. On another note, I did hit a KOM on a local black trail with a Ganopper crankset. So they're definitely better than not good! 😂👍
Now regarding riders entering the hobby. I highly recommend one does not attempt upgrading most budget bikes. The fact is that with so many different standards of head sets and bottom brackets, one could waste time and fiat currency ordering the wrong bits. This industry has really over complicated things. Oh, and then chuck in there needing a different tool for every little ol part, and it can quickly become frustrating.
Anywho, thanks for the video captain! Great little breakdown.
Been there still doing it on a Trek Marlin 7 that came as a 3x. If I had to do it all over again I would have started with a Roscoe 7.
Today we’re doing something different, but kind of the same !
Hahaha
I also like the idea of buying cheap now, and having that upgrade path possible if you get more into biking as time goes on or have the budget. Also If your on a budget don't ignore the value that you can find by checking out the used bikes in your area.
The Waffle House has found its new host
Did about the same exact upgrades to my gt avalanche 29”. Rockshox fork, pnw dropper, pnw handlebars and grips, 32 tooth front chainring to make it a 1 by, better tires, and shorter headset. Couldn’t be happier. Got all my advice from this channel.
My first bike back into the sport was a 2020 specialized pitch sport. My local bike shop charged me $800. I thought what I was getting was a real mountain bike. Problem was, when I wanted to start making upgrades, I found out what I got was what I got. 2x drivetrain, 27.5 wheels, straight headset, no easy routing for a dropper post, and no real option for a clutch derailleur. I quickly realized that what I got was not a real mountain bike. It soured me on my local bike shop because they weren’t upfront with me on what I was actually getting. I do have a real mountain bike now and it’s a Polygon. My wife now rides the pitch sport. My son is in his 20s with a baby on a tight budget. He wants to get into mountain biking but doesn’t have enough money to drop on a “real” mountain bike. This Kent would be the best option for him but it hasn’t been in stock since this series started. There is no entry level “real” mountain bike on the market that can compete with this Kent Trouvaille.
Sounds like a deal to me. I put over $1k into a Schwinn Axum, best money I ever spent. The only thing stock when I was finished was the frame and crankset. Took it down double black diamond and red lines at Windrock last February and it was a blast!
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I like those valve caps..just bought the same color for mine.
I still tinker with my old (now wife's) Trek Marlin 5, *because* it's so easy to work on. It taught me a lot on bike maintenance & upgrading that I now use on my Polygon Sisku T8.
I'll be the first to admit that it's not for everybody though, and lots of folks would and maybe should just pay the LBS to do things.
As an enthusiast of the bike customizing, this Walmart Bike is an indefinitely better deal for me than any other you've shown in this video :)
I really enjoyed watching this series and if nothing else it shows you can buy this bike on a budget and slowly upgrade over time. For $400 you can ride today and every paycheck or 2 you throw $50 to $100 at it until you have a decent bike.
Have a look at Vitus bikes! In the UK, Chainreaction cycles has a bundle now for the Nucleus for 600£. Vitus are pretty decent bikes, bang for the buck. The bike comes with the same air forks you upgraded, Deore 10 speed groupset, Brand-X dropper, WTB wheelset, Maxxis Ardent tires. Clarks brakes tho. One of my friend had a Nucleus before, and not going to lie, pretty solid bike!
got one for christmas great bike event came with raceface ride crankset
I've been slowly building my Trouvaille up and while I could have gotten a LBS bike I wanted something to learn to work on bikes. I've done a tubeless conversion and changed to knobbier tires. I got some wider more grippy pedals. I changed out the bars and grips for much better ones(the ones when I bought it had one of the bolts stripped out so I couldn't take them off). While MAJOR overkill I put some magura MT7 hydraulic brakes on it. I haven't yet changed my fork and I didn't need to change my crankset/chainring. I love it and I'll continue to make it better.
Here’s where the difference lies for me. I have a like new trouvaille I picked up used on OfferUp for 125. With 450 of upgrades, I’ll only have 575.00 invested in the bike and as you pointed out, it’s an awesome buddy bike/ corner store blaster/ pub crawler once upgraded.
I realize I’m late to the party here, but I wanted to mention something that I’m not sure that you were aware of, Seth.
That bike came with a SR Suntour coil fork on it… well, Suntour has an upgrade program, where you send in the serial number on the fork, along with the receipt for the bike, and you are given multiple upgrade options at a much cheaper rate. Suntour actually has some pretty decent entry level air forks, that are really cheap when purchased with the upgrade program.
Food for thought! 😁
Don't forget about the tinkerers and doit yourselfers that have more money than sense. I did this with the Schwinn Axum from Walmart. It was expensive and I spent way more money than I should have, but I had an absolute BLAST and I learned a ton. There's not a single part on the bike I didn't replace (sometimes more than once). By the of that journey, there's no issue I am not equipped handle myself, especially since there's no bike shops near by. I still enjoy tuning it and changing bits of trim from time to time. Of course I could never sell it without taking a huge loss but first: I don't intend to, and second: the experience was worth it.
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I'm a beginner just now getting the mountain biking bug and I have come to realize my area actually has some nice trails. I had a cheap Sidewinder bike that's been in my shed for a few years so I'd started commuting to work to start conditioning up. My drivetrain failed after just a month and a bit commuting. With the cash I had saved not driving my 9 mpg truck during that time (as well as some rainy day fund) I grabbed a Giordano Intrepid. It came from my local Walmart for $650 in a medium frame with 29" wheels. I believe it has the same tires, still has a heavy sr suntour coil fork but with 120mm of travel, Tektro hydraulic disk brakes, Microshift 10 speed, a great looking frame and probably some other bits I don't know enough about yet... Seemed like a pretty solid improvement over the Trouville for not a lot more money. I only had right around $600 to spend (Had to borrow a little bit from the savings account to cover that remaining bit and tax) This seemed to be the best spec I could find for that price. Hopefully I did ok with it. Time will tell. I did sit on a Trouville they had in stock and considered it, but that large frame just felt too big for me.
I did this with the ozark trail 29". I moved all of the good parts over from my old Haro. Upgrading from a 26" to a 29" was worth it for me. The wheels on the ozark were noticeably cheap so I sprung for spank wheels. I even had leftover money to have a buddy powdercoat the frame to a color I like.
Great video...but scary how you use a hammer and then a hydraulic jack to get that steering tube ring off...not too many beginning bike "Mechanics" would risk doing that (Or have that jack), also special tools are needed to remove the crankshaft and bearings.
This sums up the life of my partner's BMX. Diamondback Viper owned by a downhill racer (gearing modified to suit), she bought it from them for $350, she rode it to work until it fell into disrepair. Some 7 years later we still have it and the start of last year I stripped it, painted it, new gears, cables, wheels and a lot more that was probably overkill. Cost of new stuff was around $450 (AUD) due to the fact we don't stock a damn thing here and shipping is borderline extortion. As far as any $800 on the market (here) it doesn't exactly match in quality but its definitely unique and makes a nice cruiser.
Very good breakdown! The only sense it makes is if you wanna spend less on bike purchase and build what you want, it makes ok sense. Amazon makes it so easy and affordable. Like you said, now it's a good bike but at builder's expense
The problem with this addiction. No matter what bike you get, you always want to upgrade it. So my advice would be to get a frame that fits you well. Then go from there. I'm talking from a bigginer point of view. I bought a used bike then upgraded it, and I love it. Even after getting me a trek full suspension. My hardtail is a great trail bike for me.
For most people on a budget I would recommend a used bike above any department store landfill bike. If you know what to look for you can get an excellent bike from a good price.
This is really useful for someone like me who is VERY cheap and happy with a bodged-together "good enough" mountain bike.
Dear Bern, Thank You. Excellent review . You are a bike expert and that is to You advantage. A normal person will not have readily available quality labor like Yours... which for me is what makes the Big difference. You are a problem solver and provide solutions to what you encounter. Regards.
Thank you for the reasonable conclusion. When the series started I was worried you'd recommend this route to people (upgrade Walmart bike instead of buying decent bike from shop). Definitely takes a lot of knowledge to do the work yourself. Paying a bike shop to change out a fork would already add another fifty bucks.
Where I wish you'd explore some is for people to either buy a frame, or find a beater bike as a frame donor.
I found an old beat up trek. Unrideable, but the frame is aluminium and in good condition (and decent geometry by modern standards). I got it for fifty bucks and frankly, if you are going to change out all the parts anyway, it's much less wasteful to start out with just the frame.
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My first “real mountain bike” was a hardtail that was upgraded similarly on a 2012 entry level trek frame. I absolutely agree with your conclusion, but you didn’t dig in to one of the major reasons as much as i would have.
The lack of a dropper post is the largest nail in the coffin for me. That was pretty much my first upgrade. I think a dropper post and brakes and the most important upgrades to be able to progress as a rider safely. If it’ll never have a dropper post, I wouldn’t put a dime into it.
Great video, thanks for doing this project! Brought back a lot of memories!
I think this speaks to a huge issue in the industry. Even low end starter bikes from reputable manufactures are out of the price range for many families. I’ve become a bit of a neighborhood bike mechanic because it’s just not ok to take a $200 bike to get serviced at a bike shop for $100. A $200 bike from Walmart will last possibly one year without any maintenance, probably even less when the kids riding them watch UA-camrs riding sweet trails on nice bikes.
As much as buying a low end bike like this and putting upgrades into it is not the best idea, it’s a good way for a family on a budget to test out the sport while not breaking the bank. I’ve also always been of the mindset that you buy the best bike you can afford and then tack on newer and better components to improve the bike until you either destroy the bike or can afford the next jump in price. One of my favorite bikes was a Marin that I continually upgraded to make it more capable!
With any tool buy cheap and if you break it you use it enough to warrant spending some wedge on the replacement.
Same with bikes, I got a Giant Talon 3 for £400, loved it, upgraded it, still outgrew that spent 2k on a Whyte T130.
So if you're wondering if MTB is for you, spend a little, see how it goes.
Or buy an expensive bike and sell it on ebay a few months later for pennies, we love those.
Loved when you looked at all the different bike brands to compare, I feel like that knowledge alone was worth watching the video thank you!
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Did the same to my Schwinn AL comp, nothing stock but the frame, it was a fun project and has been great for mild trail rides
I got a Kent trouvaille for my son to gauge his interest. I like customization and upgrading as I go. Also, the Kent frame is definitely more of a medium than a large, despite what Kent might label it as.
for the nearly same price of polygon you can get one of the scotts aspect series bikes.
personally I've been using aspect 930 fro some time and it feels pretty good
I have a similar "cheap" big box store hard tail, a 27.5 Gira Terreno. The bike followed a very similar upgrade path to the one in this video over a couple years of riding the hell out of it and upgrading parts as the originals wore out. Sure, I've turned a $350 bike into an $800 bike, but I did so over the course of a couple thousand miles... and now I know ever single bolt on that bike, what it does and how to fix it.
Don't get me wrong, when this thing finally dies, I'm replacing it with a higher quality bike, but I'm kind of glad I started with a cheap bike and built it into exactly what I wanted by putting miles on parts and learning what worked for me and what didn't.
This is cool to see. The deal really comes in when you pick up a box store bike for super cheap on the used market.
Please do more of the showing bikes online and reviewing their stock setups it helps me learn what to look for
I have the roscoe 7, and I have ridden a Kent upgraded similarly to this. The Kent didn't feel too bad, but it was noticeably worse than the roscoe. Not a bad bike to learn to wrench on.
I am currently upgrading my Schwinn Al comp and the pros to this is that I can ride it as I upgrade it and I don't have to buy all the parts at once. the other pro that I reconized is that I am learning to repair and fix bikes. it is a hobby with me right now. I love tinkering with stuff and this is a tinkers paradise.
👆👆👆Congratulations fan you've👆👆👆 been selected among my shortlisted winner 🎁🎁🎁
I would recommend performing a budget build. For the best example used here, Canyon , $899; a budget build will fund a lot. 1st the entry level XCM30 fork is not bad at all. That can be the last thing to upgrade. 2nd, learning your bike in detail will allow a higher appreciation, hence better your skills. Lastly, planning the build perfectly in your mind before you buy will go beyond fun. You can post your build for sale at your value and see what your value is in real time. Having a bin of reliable parts is a must. In conclusion, if you include the taxes, $825 is $893. That includes the knowledge you acquire, extra good parts to sell or reuse, bragging rights, confidence, skills, and fun.
I did something like this with an abandoned bike. While it had a grocery store sticker on it the hydraulic guides hinted the frame was probably used for much better specs than what it had. Spent about £400 on everything. And it's in it's 5th year of service. Kid managed to break the spare square taper bottom bracket which I upgraded shortly after to hollowtech. Only other things I've done is change grips and tyres.
I can see your point ,when you say don't go the upgrade route. The point is it does have some benefits, in my eyes quite major ones.
1. You start riding sooner, if you are on a budget. True, you have to watch where you're going, and maybe even pay more attention to the condition of certain parts, but you're out on the trails, you're riding!
2. You can do upgrades at your own pace, as your budget allows.
3. You will learn more about bike mechanics, as you keep installing the parts.
4. And the lower entry price might give you space in your budget for decent quality riding gear.
Yeah, "proper" bikes are awesome, but i think there is still space for bikes like the Kent. They can serve as gateway "drugs", that get people riding.
Great video and good conclusion.
Almost two years ago I bought a Cube AIM EX for my wife for €632.
It came with 3x9, which I replaced directly with a 1x11 dt with clutch from the partsbin together with a new Deore crankset.
It already has hydraulic brakes, but still the coilspring SR Suntour.
The fork is good enough over here in the Netherlands for the rides my wife does.
If I upgrade the fork, the price of the bike with the new parts will go to around €900-1000. Then you come in the range of bikes which already have all the upgraded parts and possible even 12-speed.
For me it is just fun to work on bikes and to upgrade it, if it is not your hobby: save some extra cash and buy a bike in the €900-1000 price range.
Hi Seth back in those days people used to spent over 2 - 3 k nice high end bikes after pandemic people buy low budget bikes and build from scratch... I'm a bicycle mechanic over 20 years I had build a lot without complete bike from the box just parts to choose from and make good looking ride !!!!