I appreciate the quality of your videos I live in Flagstaff Arizona and it’s nice to know you have a lot of videos that’s going to help me work on my WJ thanks again
Thank you, I have a friend from Michigan that moved to southern Nevada and was amazed at the rust free older vehicles out here. Here is a walk around of this JGC. ua-cam.com/video/dBkSsng51_U/v-deo.html
Next time you do press in style bushings, bearings, ball joints... Store then in the freezer overnight I've sat control arms on a wood burning stove and bushings/joints in the freezer and MOST of the time the next day you can literally drop them in place
I just did this job yesterday by myself. 3-1/2 hours cause I also replaced the lower control arms too. I used a pickel fork with a 1" X 4' pipe. The pipe worked best if it goes all the way to the fork, that way your pounding on both forks at the same time and not losing the pounding force by just pounding on the end of the fork. Once I got the fork all the way on the balljoint, I started to use the pipe as a leverage bar, yes i used the weight of the differental, was hanging to help pull down on the balljoint but was still on the jack.. I was bouncing a couple of times with all my weight and it broke loose. The control arm popped up as I had hoped it would. Now was so easy to take out the 15mm bolts on the arm, pull the arm out and super easy to get a impact wrench on the 3 balljoint bolts to the differental. Even using a impact on those 3 bolts were very slow coming off. Can't imagine using a ratcheting box wrench on that. Your video was very inspiring 👏 ✌
Hi Martin! Why didn't you just remove the nut on the ball joint and drop the rear end to help separate with a pickel fork and then you'll have plenty of room to remove the 3 bolts with a impact??? I've seen so many videos on this replacement and they all do it without the use of gravity and leverage!
@@martinbuilt . With all the tools and welding equipment guy's have today, I'd just welding the fork onto a piece of 4' long steel rod? Or fab one. Or use a impact wrench with a socket to fit the end of the fork?? I'm getting ready to do this job with very little tools. I have to buy a jack and stands yet. Bought a 1/2" stubby a few months ago and just ordered the parts from Detroit. Going to be very interesting job for me. And doing it in the street!!
Doing this arm soon on my United kingdom wj 2.7 diesel. Buying the whole control arm including all bushings from jeep monkey on eBay. Summer 2018, replaced rear lower control arms just two weeks ago, badly rusted out on axle side, rubber bushings fell out on floor when I removed the arm, simple job, bit of a pain getting one of the bolts back in due to axle moving about six inches rearward, next door neighbour helped me out by levering the axle forward using a strong garden spade, :-) thanks John. Made a huge difference to the handling, not crabbing now under acceleration and deceleration. My German shepherd likes the less wobbly ride now too. Thanks for another great well informed video.
Thanks for the video. Tip, if you have to press install bushings or ball joints: it's best to freeze them in a deep freezer overnight before doing the press fit. Like others said that soapy water works too. But grease us fine as long as you cold freeze them before hand at lwast 8 to 14 hours. What it does is shrinks or contracts the bushing/ball joint metal seals so you can fit them in much easier. I've heard of others being able to hammer them in that way with the correct spacers. But I'll only buy control arms/ball joints with bushings/joints pre-installed. It's about the same price anyways so there isn't a good reason to buy bushings separate in today's day and age. Most ball joints today are non greasable without grease zerts. They come pre-greased and good brands pre-install the bushings and ball joints where possible. In the case of regular ball joint replacement on front/rear upper and lowers I just buy the entire part with them pre-installed so it's a quick bolt n swap. Make sure to look up the bolt sizes of each control arm, sway bar, shocks, tie rod, and track bar, for the upper and lower bolts, front and rear. They are different sizes on each. Because many 99-07 WJ's have considerable corrosion which rust welds the bolts to nuts requiring torching nut, a bolt remover socket and or cutting the bolts off since they will probably break or simply wont crack loose like my rear shocks. My Rear Socks require: ▪︎ Hex Flange Head Bolt ▪︎ M12x1.75x80mm upper ▪︎ M12x1.75x70mm lower ▪︎ Partial Thread ▪︎ Grade 10.9 Bolt/10 Flange Nut ▪︎ Yellow Zinc Bolts and Nuts, not Black Oxide. I will get my bolts and nuts from BelMetric online. And they are upgrade strength and quality than OEM.
Couple weeks ago I ordered a Moog A Arm because I didn’t want to deal with pressing in bushings. Waited a week and the A Arm showed up with the bushings installed in the wrong orientation. Exchanged it for another and the new one came again with bearings pressed in the wrong orientation. Had to go and buy a press just to press them out and back in properly. So now I’m out almost $300 as opposed to the $100 I could’ve spent on bushings alone. Just something to think about if you plan on buying the A Arm so you don’t have to deal with the bushings.
would it be easier to remove the nut on the top of the ball joint and then separate the arm from the ball joint so it would make removing the 3 bolts faster?
Found your channel last week after i bought my 04 wj. And i just had my new bushing delivered two days ago(waiting for the ball joint still). So thank you for the perfect timing of this video, it will help a lot once i get around to it.
Ryan Wetrick if you don't mind me asking, what prompted you to begin looking into the rear ball joint and control arm? I've been having a popping noise when I turn and I started looking around back there as well.
Thanks! I was scared doing this myself and was looking for a shop to do this for me. Your video gave me the trust to order a complete control arm and do it myself.
Make sure if you do this that you orient the bushings in the correct direction before putting them in with a random direction and then call them junk when they don't last. The correct orientation would be to put a straight edge on one of the flats ground into the inner sleeve (where the bolt goes through) and point it right at the other bushing's inner sleeve. 90 degrees off is wrong, 45 degrees off is wrong, etc. No brand, not even OEM, are going to last very long if they aren't pointing the correct direction. These bushings aren't like other control arm bushings that are made to absorb rotation along the bolt's axis. These flex 90 degrees away from that, and only in one plane. Obviously you're not going to get them to point absolutely perfectly in the right direction, but if the straight edge end up being 1/4" or less off at the other bushing, that's close enough.
My WJ i6 has 120k miles but in very steep hills or sharp turns that slope up it feels like it slips and sometimes on slopes it stalls. Changed the trans fluid, questionable driveshaft and u joints. I'm changing the transfer case fluid soon (probably not related). Could this behavior be because of the upper control arm?
I had the same issue with my 04 wj when I did my axle bearings they have a ring retainer on the axle to hold the bearing from backing off and I had to accommodate like how you sanded the control arm
Hi Martin. Would it have been easier to take out the ball joint nut instead of the 3 bolts, then break it loose with a pickel fork and a leverage bar and let the weight of the axel to help pop it out? 🤔
Perhaps, the problem is getting that pickle fork up in there and getting a swing on it, There just isn't much Room up there for pickle fork and hammer.
@@martinbuilt . How about putting a leverage bar on the fork and using your weight while the weight of the differental is pulling down on the control arm, your popping up on the arm? This should pop the arm free? Then the bushing bolts can be removed and the arm, now plenty of access to the 3 balljoint bolts??🤷♂️
GEARWRENCH 12 Pt. Reversible Ratcheting Combination Wrench, 21mm amzn.to/2WPKACK I have links to products and tools in the description of all my videos to help you get the job done. Check to make sure that those bolts are 21mm and not 18mm. Someone had claimed that there JGC had 18mm bolts. Jeep may have use a variety of different sizes over the years.
@@martinbuilt. Thanks Martin! I'll check today. I'm looking for that same wrench also with a flex head. I'll let you know how it went using the Leverage method. Waiting on parts from Detroit Axel. Maybe 2 more weeks??✌
@@martinbuilt . Hey Martin. Just got my dbl box reversible ratchet set. And yes it is a 21mm for the 3 ball joint bolts. Although I haven't started the work yet, I'm still waiting on my jack, creeper and the new ball joint to get here. I'm excited to see if I can break loose the ball stud by dropping the differental and the weight pulling down on the arm and using a pickle fork with a long steel pipe to extend out from the wheel well and hit it with a 4lb. I'm going to use pb blaster and a 1/2" stubby impact to loosen the nut first ofcourse. I was thinking of loosening it now and drive a day or two to hopefully break it loose on its own?? I'm very limited on tools so if I hit a snag, I'm screwed!✌
@@martinbuilt . I just got my ball joint delivery early. I checked the nut size on the new one and it's a 22mm. Hope I can get a socket on it cause now I don't have a 22mm wrench. I just bought a 8mm - 22mm dbl box reversible ratchet off set wrench set thinking the balljoint nut was also a 22mm. Hoping my inpact ratchet will break it loose. I also just bought a Neico impact socket set with short and deep sockets and as I just bought a Millwaukee 1/2" stubby impact cause I'm also replacing the rear lower control arms at the same time and to take off the lugs nuts. Spent alot of money on tools but rather keep the tools than pay the labor. Can't wait to do the fronts and balljoints. I'll be ready!👍
The balljoint bolts on top the axle are 13/16. And a side note you can press them in upsidedown as well I didnt notice this when I pressed them in last year.
Did you have any issues with the side bushing bolts lining back up? I’ve got one in, but with new bushing, the other is off too much to get bolt in. Any suggestions?
Martin, love your videos mate. A tip on inserting bushes: Apply a liberal coating of soapy water (slimy consistency) to the bush then insert. We've done it with outboard motor propeller bushes for donkey's years. DOES NOT HARM THE BUSH and it makes the task a whole lot easier.
Just did the ball joint last night again on my 01 wj. I hope this one lasts longer than the few before. Is anyone else having issues with this ball joint??
Wouldn't it be easier to use a pickle fork and pry the ball joint off the rear control arm while it is still in the vehicle? That way you can get better access to the 21mm bolts that hold it to the top of the axle or am I missing something?
I just installed a new upper control arm and noticed after the ball joint nut was tightened down, there is a little play at the arm and ball joint with a clicking sound as I pushed and pulled straight up and down on it. I think I see some slack in the same place on yours as you were prying and removing the bolts from the rear end. It doesn't make any noise if rock the back end of the Jeep back and forth. Is that play normal?
@@martinbuilt Thanks for the reply. I kinda figured it should be like other joints too like you were saying. So far it doesn't seem to be an issue, but if it ends up being one, I guess its easy enough to pull it out again and fix it. Love your channel!
Hello Martin, are you sure about those 3 ball joint plate to differential bolts being 21mm? The hardware supplied with ny new ball joint has 18mm bolts. I haven't been under there yet to see the OEM bolts but I am having a heck of a time finding a 21mm angle head reversible wrench that isn't special order and like $35 dollars for a cheap one. The 18mm version is available right off the shelf.
I see, thanks man :) guess I'll have to get my butt down there and check... still cold here in the North East (Va) I have an 03 Overland 135kmi and your videos have helped me immensely and given me so many ideas.
I did have an idea for you though while I was watching your battery relocation job and thinking about an earlier video I seen with your cooling quest and conversion to an efan. Have you seen those auxiliary radiators like they use on Audi's? See most of the year you do not need to be circulating hot water through your heater core and dashboard... there is heat transference there which reduces ac performance. You ever consider using an aux radiator to route your heater core hoses to during the summer months? You could probably mount one over where the battery was and have it drawing air with a mini fan into the inner fenderwell. You can increase your cooling capacity while putting those heater core provisions on your block to a good use when not needed.
I got to say, those old cars with the slider and cable style hvac controls atleast they prevented hot coolant from circulating through the dash until needed with the little bypass/switching valve under the hood... remember those :) now a days most cars rely on blend doors but that dash is still hot to the touch under there and radiating heat. Heater cores shed a lot of engine heat, in some cases preventing engines from overheating so the heater core provisions on the timing cover should be good for shedding quite a bit off engine cooling temps.
@@i_n_t_e_l_l_i_g_e_n_c_e8109 yeah, I would consider something like that if I could make it look good as well. On my Jeep, I would want it so you won't even know it was there.
Hello there, what was the number of OTC tool set you were using to change the ball joint in Jeep Grand Cherokee wj? I really love your work! Best wishes
Heavy Duty Ball Joint Press & U Joint Removal Tool Kit amzn.to/3fWtkTY OTC 7249 Ball Joint, U-Joint, and Brake Anchor Pin Service Kit amzn.to/2ZSw7Yw thank you for watching, cheers!
Thanks for the detailed video. Do you torque down the 21mm ball joint nut and 15mm control arm bolts while the vehicle is still in the air or on the ground? I've read that they need to be torqued on the ground but maybe that's just the lower control arm.
Hey Martin I have a question about the upper control arm where the bolts go thru into the body of the jeep. When reinstalling the new upper. The bolts seem to just spin. I need help what to do. What would you recommend. Maybe a bigger bolt. Or a bolt with course threads? HELP
@@martinbuilt yeah factory bolts going back in. And was rough getting them out. I live in Michigan and it's kinda rusty. I was thinking about using a bigger bolt with a course thread? What do you think?
The bolt when putting back together busted the tack welded nut on the high side off.needed to cut thru floor board to access it. Had to remove part of the floor to weld a new nut in place. For that bolt. 'm about to do that ball joint again Here soon
It's been a while since your post of this video, although it gave me valuable information I will use in saving money to do this job at home. I would recommend an air impact for the driver though. Thankz
Thank you! The fog lights are factory. The headlights are by Spyder here is a video on that ua-cam.com/video/_FZgN5idPPk/v-deo.html and the grill I made that, here is the video for that ua-cam.com/video/GLnlaWFElWM/v-deo.html
Use some PB Buster lubricant to help loosen the bolts. I ordered an upper control arm with bushings and a ball joint from rockauto online for $75 with shipping included. It made my life more tolerable.
Im having issues with mine. I replaced the rear upper control arm and ever since then whenever i specifically go through dips and turning i hear a huge thudish noise come from the rear axle and i cant find whats causing it. Ive gotten back down there several times and everything is tight and theres no movement.
Thank you. Panasonic 2 din deck, Alpine speakers, currently running the 894 fuel injectors, martinbuilt Ram Air with a Mustang hood scoop, slotted and drilled rotors, Eibach Pro kit 1" lowering spings, Addco rear sway bar and Michelin premier 245/50/20 tires on OE wheels 20x9 those are SRT look alike. almost forgot the Doug Thorley headers 3" exhaust hi flow cat and flow master 70 series muffler. here is a play list of most of the up grades ua-cam.com/play/PLeFXFxihjKkFntUALx8txsYTNjrjPQ0cv.html
What poor engineering on Jeeps part. I feel once any vehicle that is designed and built and before it gets the go ahead for mass production. The engineers and design teams need to go change out parts on the vehicle they just build, so they see what is easy and what is impossible to do.
So the REASON the Jeep Engineering did this design is they were able to get 7" MORE cross camber articulation than the prior design on the Cherokee based ZJ. Remember, Jeeps are TRAIL RATED, and the ability to GO OFF ROAD, (unlike almost every competitor SUV) is what set them apart.
Daniel Walters The ball joint attachment bolts are all 21mm, the lower control arm to chassis bolts are 15 mm. 10 mm attatching the parking brake cables to the upper control arm and 13 mm attaching the brake line.
don't you have an air compressor? I would just use air tools to get accessible bolts. and wouldn't hitting the control arm with the hammer potentially damage the control arm, bend it out of shape? I think a dead blow would've been a better choice. But man do you make good, very detailed videos. I love them, please keep doing what your doing
Heat the differential casting at these plate to differential bolts with a heat gun and that thread sealant will plasticize. The bolts will then come right out. Same for those bolts on steering gear/frame and brake caliper bracket bolts.
Why does my front left wheel starts shakin real bad when i drive over small bumps like i have to break asap because it starts shaking really bad but its only in the front left tire if any body can help am running sum 305 65 17
pancho 1017 durty south Well that is called death wobble. Very common with with almost all Jeep until they went to Independent front suspension. Start by checking your shocks the bushings on the shocks especially the top ones could be as simple as that and there is the tie rod ends drag link bushings could also be ball joints
I appreciate the quality of your videos I live in Flagstaff Arizona and it’s nice to know you have a lot of videos that’s going to help me work on my WJ thanks again
Your Jeep is sweet, I live in Michigan. Salt destroys All the cars here. Nice GC!!!
Thank you, I have a friend from Michigan that moved to southern Nevada and was amazed at the rust free older vehicles out here.
Here is a walk around of this JGC. ua-cam.com/video/dBkSsng51_U/v-deo.html
Great Job I’ll buy all new control arms with bushings F-That hammering out and pressing inn bushings
Yeah, I hear that, thank you 😊
Oh crap that seemed smooth. My ball joint snapped and this is my project Saturday
wow that rear end has to be flopping around in there with broke ball joint. 😳
Next time you do press in style bushings, bearings, ball joints... Store then in the freezer overnight
I've sat control arms on a wood burning stove and bushings/joints in the freezer and MOST of the time the next day you can literally drop them in place
Good idea Jason, I did a similar thing with a Ford tractor installing a new cylinder into the block.
Well considering the upper control arm only has one actually in the control arm the other end is the axke bushing and it has to be pressed out
I need some guidelines new on removing gearbox transmission on 2004 jeep grand Cherokee lerato PLEASE
I just did this job yesterday by myself. 3-1/2 hours cause I also replaced the lower control arms too.
I used a pickel fork with a 1" X 4' pipe. The pipe worked best if it goes all the way to the fork, that way your pounding on both forks at the same time and not losing the pounding force by just pounding on the end of the fork. Once I got the fork all the way on the balljoint, I started to use the pipe as a leverage bar, yes i used the weight of the differental, was hanging to help pull down on the balljoint but was still on the jack..
I was bouncing a couple of times with all my weight and it broke loose. The control arm popped up as I had hoped it would. Now was so easy to take out the 15mm bolts on the arm, pull the arm out and super easy to get a impact wrench on the 3 balljoint bolts to the differental.
Even using a impact on those 3 bolts were very slow coming off. Can't imagine using a ratcheting box wrench on that. Your video was very inspiring 👏 ✌
Thx much... definitely helped and took the maybe it easy to understand... another great vid!!
Glad it helped!
You're a lifesaver man! Kudos!!
Thanks a bunch. Certainly using your work to walk me through!
Great to hear!
Why not remove the center joint to acxes the 21mm bolts, is it because joint going to free spin?
Hi Martin! Why didn't you just remove the nut on the ball joint and drop the rear end to help separate with a pickel fork and then you'll have plenty of room to remove the 3 bolts with a impact??? I've seen so many videos on this replacement and they all do it without the use of gravity and leverage!
try getting a pickle fork up there and being able to strike it with a hammer, not so easy.
@@martinbuilt . With all the tools and welding equipment guy's have today, I'd just welding the fork onto a piece of 4' long steel rod? Or fab one. Or use a impact wrench with a socket to fit the end of the fork??
I'm getting ready to do this job with very little tools. I have to buy a jack and stands yet. Bought a 1/2" stubby a few months ago and just ordered the parts from Detroit. Going to be very interesting job for me. And doing it in the street!!
Like you said...just replace the whole arm, much easier. THANKS for sharing!
You're welcome!
Doing this arm soon on my United kingdom wj 2.7 diesel. Buying the whole control arm including all bushings from jeep monkey on eBay. Summer 2018, replaced rear lower control arms just two weeks ago, badly rusted out on axle side, rubber bushings fell out on floor when I removed the arm, simple job, bit of a pain getting one of the bolts back in due to axle moving about six inches rearward, next door neighbour helped me out by levering the axle forward using a strong garden spade, :-) thanks John. Made a huge difference to the handling, not crabbing now under acceleration and deceleration. My German shepherd likes the less wobbly ride now too. Thanks for another great well informed video.
Thanks for the video.
Tip, if you have to press install bushings or ball joints: it's best to freeze them in a deep freezer overnight before doing the press fit. Like others said that soapy water works too.
But grease us fine as long as you cold freeze them before hand at lwast 8 to 14 hours. What it does is shrinks or contracts the bushing/ball joint metal seals so you can fit them in much easier. I've heard of others being able to hammer them in that way with the correct spacers.
But I'll only buy control arms/ball joints with bushings/joints pre-installed. It's about the same price anyways so there isn't a good reason to buy bushings separate in today's day and age.
Most ball joints today are non greasable without grease zerts. They come pre-greased and good brands pre-install the bushings and ball joints where possible.
In the case of regular ball joint replacement on front/rear upper and lowers I just buy the entire part with them pre-installed so it's a quick bolt n swap.
Make sure to look up the bolt sizes of each control arm, sway bar, shocks, tie rod, and track bar, for the upper and lower bolts, front and rear. They are different sizes on each.
Because many 99-07 WJ's have considerable corrosion which rust welds the bolts to nuts requiring torching nut, a bolt remover socket and or cutting the bolts off since they will probably break or simply wont crack loose like my rear shocks.
My Rear Socks require:
▪︎ Hex Flange Head Bolt
▪︎ M12x1.75x80mm upper
▪︎ M12x1.75x70mm lower
▪︎ Partial Thread
▪︎ Grade 10.9 Bolt/10 Flange Nut
▪︎ Yellow Zinc Bolts and Nuts, not Black Oxide.
I will get my bolts and nuts from BelMetric online. And they are upgrade strength and quality than OEM.
Couple weeks ago I ordered a Moog A Arm because I didn’t want to deal with pressing in bushings. Waited a week and the A Arm showed up with the bushings installed in the wrong orientation. Exchanged it for another and the new one came again with bearings pressed in the wrong orientation. Had to go and buy a press just to press them out and back in properly. So now I’m out almost $300 as opposed to the $100 I could’ve spent on bushings alone. Just something to think about if you plan on buying the A Arm so you don’t have to deal with the bushings.
would it be easier to remove the nut on the top of the ball joint and then separate the arm from the ball joint so it would make removing the 3 bolts faster?
yes if you are able to separate the ball joint from the control arm. It can put up quite a fight.
Found your channel last week after i bought my 04 wj. And i just had my new bushing delivered two days ago(waiting for the ball joint still). So thank you for the perfect timing of this video, it will help a lot once i get around to it.
Your welcome
Ryan Wetrick if you don't mind me asking, what prompted you to begin looking into the rear ball joint and control arm? I've been having a popping noise when I turn and I started looking around back there as well.
I have a 2000 WJ.
What is the wrench size for the 3 ball joint bolts?? Other vedios say 13/16 not 21mm.
I have also heard that it may have been 13/16 on the early models but it was definitely 21mm on my 04
Thanks! I was scared doing this myself and was looking for a shop to do this for me. Your video gave me the trust to order a complete control arm and do it myself.
If the control arm is rusty I would recommend buying a new one with the bushings installed.
Make sure if you do this that you orient the bushings in the correct direction before putting them in with a random direction and then call them junk when they don't last. The correct orientation would be to put a straight edge on one of the flats ground into the inner sleeve (where the bolt goes through) and point it right at the other bushing's inner sleeve. 90 degrees off is wrong, 45 degrees off is wrong, etc. No brand, not even OEM, are going to last very long if they aren't pointing the correct direction. These bushings aren't like other control arm bushings that are made to absorb rotation along the bolt's axis. These flex 90 degrees away from that, and only in one plane. Obviously you're not going to get them to point absolutely perfectly in the right direction, but if the straight edge end up being 1/4" or less off at the other bushing, that's close enough.
My WJ i6 has 120k miles but in very steep hills or sharp turns that slope up it feels like it slips and sometimes on slopes it stalls. Changed the trans fluid, questionable driveshaft and u joints. I'm changing the transfer case fluid soon (probably not related). Could this behavior be because of the upper control arm?
Another great video! My 04 Grand Cherokee has a heck of a rattle back in that area. I'll bet it's those bushings or the ball joint!
Thank you, Gary, good luck with the control arm.
I had the same issue with my 04 wj when I did my axle bearings they have a ring retainer on the axle to hold the bearing from backing off and I had to accommodate like how you sanded the control arm
Hi Martin. Would it have been easier to take out the ball joint nut instead of the 3 bolts, then break it loose with a pickel fork and a leverage bar and let the weight of the axel to help pop it out? 🤔
Perhaps, the problem is getting that pickle fork up in there and getting a swing on it, There just isn't much Room up there for pickle fork and hammer.
@@martinbuilt . How about putting a leverage bar on the fork and using your weight while the weight of the differental is pulling down on the control arm, your popping up on the arm? This should pop the arm free? Then the bushing bolts can be removed and the arm, now plenty of access to the 3 balljoint bolts??🤷♂️
Is there are a video that shows this jeep in wide shots. Really like what I'm seeing from just the corner shots!
Just did a walk around video ua-cam.com/video/dBkSsng51_U/v-deo.html
Fine work mate.
PS. Where did you get the 21mm ratcheting reversible wrench, brand and price. I can't find one.
GEARWRENCH 12 Pt. Reversible Ratcheting Combination Wrench, 21mm amzn.to/2WPKACK
I have links to products and tools in the description of all my videos to help you get the job done.
Check to make sure that those bolts are 21mm and not 18mm. Someone had claimed that there JGC had 18mm bolts. Jeep may have use a variety of different sizes over the years.
@@martinbuilt. Thanks Martin! I'll check today. I'm looking for that same wrench also with a flex head. I'll let you know how it went using the Leverage method. Waiting on parts from Detroit Axel. Maybe 2 more weeks??✌
@@martinbuilt . Hey Martin. Just got my dbl box reversible ratchet set. And yes it is a 21mm for the 3 ball joint bolts. Although I haven't started the work yet, I'm still waiting on my jack, creeper and the new ball joint to get here. I'm excited to see if I can break loose the ball stud by dropping the differental and the weight pulling down on the arm and using a pickle fork with a long steel pipe to extend out from the wheel well and hit it with a 4lb. I'm going to use pb blaster and a 1/2" stubby impact to loosen the nut first ofcourse. I was thinking of loosening it now and drive a day or two to hopefully break it loose on its own?? I'm very limited on tools so if I hit a snag, I'm screwed!✌
@@jat-justamaturetech-philpj8285 sounds good, let me know how it goes.
@@martinbuilt .
I just got my ball joint delivery early. I checked the nut size on the new one and it's a 22mm. Hope I can get a socket on it cause now I don't have a 22mm wrench. I just bought a 8mm - 22mm dbl box reversible ratchet off set wrench set thinking the balljoint nut was also a 22mm. Hoping my inpact ratchet will break it loose. I also just bought a Neico impact socket set with short and deep sockets and as I just bought a Millwaukee 1/2" stubby impact cause I'm also replacing the rear lower control arms at the same time and to take off the lugs nuts. Spent alot of money on tools but rather keep the tools than pay the labor. Can't wait to do the fronts and balljoints. I'll be ready!👍
What color paint on the jeep
Brilliant Black Pearl
The balljoint bolts on top the axle are 13/16. And a side note you can press them in upsidedown as well I didnt notice this when I pressed them in last year.
There's three ways, to do things! The right way, the wrong way, and, my way! and that's usually, the wrong way. Thanks, Martin
Did you have any issues with the side bushing bolts lining back up? I’ve got one in, but with new bushing, the other is off too much to get bolt in. Any suggestions?
make sure the other bolts are a little loose and that should help to line-up the other bolt.
@@martinbuilt they are loose. I’m gonna remove the bottom bolts of the lower control arms and see if the axle will shift over enough.
Martin, love your videos mate. A tip on inserting bushes: Apply a liberal coating of soapy water (slimy consistency) to the bush then insert. We've done it with outboard motor propeller bushes for donkey's years. DOES NOT HARM THE BUSH and it makes the task a whole lot easier.
Add overnight storage in the freezer to that... Thank me later
Just did the ball joint last night again on my 01 wj. I hope this one lasts longer than the few before. Is anyone else having issues with this ball joint??
Wouldn't it be easier to use a pickle fork and pry the ball joint off the rear control arm while it is still in the vehicle? That way you can get better access to the 21mm bolts that hold it to the top of the axle or am I missing something?
I just don't think there's the room up there to swing a hammer.
I thinking to cut the ball joint out with a electric saw then have a lot of room up there to remove the 3 bolts(21mm)
I just installed a new upper control arm and noticed after the ball joint nut was tightened down, there is a little play at the arm and ball joint with a clicking sound as I pushed and pulled straight up and down on it. I think I see some slack in the same place on yours as you were prying and removing the bolts from the rear end. It doesn't make any noise if rock the back end of the Jeep back and forth.
Is that play normal?
I can't say I recall it doing that at all. Should be like any ball joint or tie rod end where there is no movement up or down.
@@martinbuilt Thanks for the reply. I kinda figured it should be like other joints too like you were saying. So far it doesn't seem to be an issue, but if it ends up being one, I guess its easy enough to pull it out again and fix it. Love your channel!
@@bassfan41 Thank you!
Hello Martin, are you sure about those 3 ball joint plate to differential bolts being 21mm? The hardware supplied with ny new ball joint has 18mm bolts. I haven't been under there yet to see the OEM bolts but I am having a heck of a time finding a 21mm angle head reversible wrench that isn't special order and like $35 dollars for a cheap one. The 18mm version is available right off the shelf.
Well mine were 21mm
I see, thanks man :) guess I'll have to get my butt down there and check... still cold here in the North East (Va) I have an 03 Overland 135kmi and your videos have helped me immensely and given me so many ideas.
I did have an idea for you though while I was watching your battery relocation job and thinking about an earlier video I seen with your cooling quest and conversion to an efan.
Have you seen those auxiliary radiators like they use on Audi's? See most of the year you do not need to be circulating hot water through your heater core and dashboard... there is heat transference there which reduces ac performance. You ever consider using an aux radiator to route your heater core hoses to during the summer months? You could probably mount one over where the battery was and have it drawing air with a mini fan into the inner fenderwell.
You can increase your cooling capacity while putting those heater core provisions on your block to a good use when not needed.
I got to say, those old cars with the slider and cable style hvac controls atleast they prevented hot coolant from circulating through the dash until needed with the little bypass/switching valve under the hood... remember those :) now a days most cars rely on blend doors but that dash is still hot to the touch under there and radiating heat. Heater cores shed a lot of engine heat, in some cases preventing engines from overheating so the heater core provisions on the timing cover should be good for shedding quite a bit off engine cooling temps.
@@i_n_t_e_l_l_i_g_e_n_c_e8109
yeah, I would consider something like that if I could make it look good as well. On my Jeep, I would want it so you won't even know it was there.
Hello there, what was the number of OTC tool set you were using to change the ball joint in Jeep Grand Cherokee wj? I really love your work! Best wishes
Heavy Duty Ball Joint Press & U Joint Removal Tool Kit amzn.to/3fWtkTY
OTC 7249 Ball Joint, U-Joint, and Brake Anchor Pin Service Kit amzn.to/2ZSw7Yw
thank you for watching, cheers!
Great video. Even nicer jeep
Adam Gonzales
Thank you
Thanks for the detailed video. Do you torque down the 21mm ball joint nut and 15mm control arm bolts while the vehicle is still in the air or on the ground? I've read that they need to be torqued on the ground but maybe that's just the lower control arm.
That's right just on the lower control arms
At the 3:10 marker, you’re pointing at a 15 MM bolt. What is the name of that bolt? I need one asap
I would call it a Rear Upper Control Arm Bushing Bolt
Really helpful, great video... Thanks!
Hey Martin I have a question about the upper control arm where the bolts go thru into the body of the jeep. When reinstalling the new upper. The bolts seem to just spin. I need help what to do. What would you recommend. Maybe a bigger bolt. Or a bolt with course threads? HELP
are you reusing the original bolts? Did the bolts come out with any problem?
@@martinbuilt yeah factory bolts going back in. And was rough getting them out. I live in Michigan and it's kinda rusty. I was thinking about using a bigger bolt with a course thread? What do you think?
The bolt when putting back together busted the tack welded nut on the high side off.needed to cut thru floor board to access it. Had to remove part of the floor to weld a new nut in place. For that bolt. 'm about to do that ball joint again Here soon
It's been a while since your post of this video, although it gave me valuable information I will use in saving money to do this job at home. I would recommend an air impact for the driver though. Thankz
pretty sure those jack stands were recalled. take em back to harbor freight
I heard about the recall. I think that there just fine. I inspected them the welds look great.
Martinbuilt, what kind of headlights, fogs and grill do you have? It looks really good. By the way great video, keep up the good work!!
Thank you! The fog lights are factory. The headlights are by Spyder here is a video on that ua-cam.com/video/_FZgN5idPPk/v-deo.html
and the grill I made that, here is the video for that ua-cam.com/video/GLnlaWFElWM/v-deo.html
Use some PB Buster lubricant to help loosen the bolts. I ordered an upper control arm with bushings and a ball joint from rockauto online for $75 with shipping included. It made my life more tolerable.
Hi. Do you remember what brand you got?
Im having issues with mine. I replaced the rear upper control arm and ever since then whenever i specifically go through dips and turning i hear a huge thudish noise come from the rear axle and i cant find whats causing it. Ive gotten back down there several times and everything is tight and theres no movement.
Your grand Cherokee looks Awsome do you have a list of your upgrades?
Thank you. Panasonic 2 din deck, Alpine speakers, currently running the 894 fuel injectors, martinbuilt Ram Air with a Mustang hood scoop, slotted and drilled rotors, Eibach Pro kit 1" lowering spings, Addco rear sway bar and Michelin premier 245/50/20 tires on OE wheels 20x9 those are SRT look alike. almost forgot the Doug Thorley headers 3" exhaust hi flow cat and flow master 70 series muffler. here is a play list of most of the up grades ua-cam.com/play/PLeFXFxihjKkFntUALx8txsYTNjrjPQ0cv.html
Pressing those bushings seems to be my luck every time. Got to fight em
What poor engineering on Jeeps part. I feel once any vehicle that is designed and built and before it gets the go ahead for mass production. The engineers and design teams need to go change out parts on the vehicle they just build, so they see what is easy and what is impossible to do.
So the REASON the Jeep Engineering did this design is they were able to get 7" MORE cross camber articulation than the prior design on the Cherokee based ZJ. Remember, Jeeps are TRAIL RATED, and the ability to GO OFF ROAD, (unlike almost every competitor SUV) is what set them apart.
@@brianbeauregard5695 I get that Jeep wants to give their vehicles a "Trail Rated" badge. Still does not explain poor engineering.
Hello
what press ball joint ball do you use (otc, astro ...)?
(bonjour.
quelle press ball joint ball utilisez vous (otc, astro...)?)
I don't under stand. Are you asking what brand name? The press that I used to take out the rubber bushings was from Harbor Freight.
Harbor Freight, OK.
Thank you
martinbuilt do you happen to know the bolt sizes for the upper and lower control arms?
Daniel Walters The ball joint attachment bolts are all 21mm, the lower control arm to chassis bolts are 15 mm. 10 mm attatching the parking brake cables to the upper control arm and 13 mm attaching the brake line.
Best video on this I’ve seen.
Good job!
don't you have an air compressor? I would just use air tools to get accessible bolts. and wouldn't hitting the control arm with the hammer potentially damage the control arm, bend it out of shape? I think a dead blow would've been a better choice. But man do you make good, very detailed videos. I love them, please keep doing what your doing
Jack Kettl
I do have an air compressor. I just wanted to do it without air tools because many people do not have them.
Good thinking mate. Not all of us have a compressor (thankfully I do) and so have to use hand tools only. Well done as always Martin.
Heat the differential casting at these plate to differential bolts with a heat gun and that thread sealant will plasticize. The bolts will then come right out.
Same for those bolts on steering gear/frame and brake caliper bracket bolts.
Сайленблоки установил не верно. У них есть ось вращения работы. Старый стояли правильно новые вы установили не правильно.
Thanks for sharing
the rear is an a arm what you show parts wise in the beginning is for the rear a arm
It's called a (upper rear control arm)
Why does my front left wheel starts shakin real bad when i drive over small bumps like i have to break asap because it starts shaking really bad but its only in the front left tire if any body can help am running sum 305 65 17
pancho 1017 durty south
Well that is called death wobble. Very common with with almost all Jeep until they went to Independent front suspension. Start by checking your shocks the bushings on the shocks especially the top ones could be as simple as that and there is the tie rod ends drag link bushings could also be ball joints