This seems to be the only video to repair this on all of UA-cam. Thank you for posting, was going to have the dealership do it but it looks simple enough to handle. 👍🏼
Thanks for the video. Dealer had told me that my link was worn but I hadn't got around to dealing with it thinking it was going to be a big job. Now that I see it's simple I just ordered the parts. Thanks also for the new part numbers as many of them are different from what's in my manual.
I have a 4500P and have owned it for 7 years and have some 400 hours on it. I have replaced the front/rear connector link as you have nicely demonstrated in this video number of years ago and this year I am noticing the same 'play' in my linkage as I did years ago and am contemplating its replacement. My question is what are your thoughts on replacing the center main pivot (42.0553)? It also seems to be a key player in the pivot function.
I was told by a very reputable Ventrac dealer that the new bar was designed so the pivots inside could be replaced. Was also told they do not need to be painted. They have not seen one that was replaced rust.
I have the parts on hnad to do this job when I get a "round tuit". My 4500Z has about 1,000 hours on it and has had slack fore to aft since the first time I checked for it, which was before the 200 hour check-up. When it was new it had the "Ventrac squeak" which was a high pitched and loud metal on metal sound in tight turns on slopes. At the 50 hour service I found those two zerks had never been greased! Totally dry and clean other than some rust on the swivel balls. Grease with moly stopped the squeak but I bet the bolts are well worn. It has gotten worse. The other,higher up, swivel ball joint seems tight. I do nost think the bolts tensioning the swivel balls on the new design are for ball replacement, but rather for re-tensioning the ball to compensate for wear, but I see no mention of that in the latest version of the owner's manual. I am going to ask Ventrac what the procedure is for checking those bols.
Follow-up: The Ventrac online chat "help" refused to answer two questions. One, does this unpainted piece need to be painted? Two, is there a torque value to be checked fir those two bolts that tenstion the swivel balls. Advised me to ask my dealership. (How is that for help?) I asked the dealership and they asked Ventrac. Answers provided: "Paint not neded" and "There is no service interval or service torque on the two bolts as they have been pre-set at factory and have neoprene (?SIC?) lock nuts". I speculate they meant Nylock lock nuts and, if so, they are prone to damage stainless alloy threads if adjusted, or so I have been told. If the bolts are stainless, then the front to rear bar is also likely to be.
The problem with the old style of link is that the hardened bearing is welded onto it causing the metal to loose its hardness due to the heat generated during the welding process.
@@ZoysiaRUs my 4500z is binding when in transport (rabbit) mode almost like it’s fighting it self and hopping but travels fine in the mow (turtle) mode. Found this bearing completely blown out and is flexing tremendously so I’m almost certain this is what is causing my issue. Thanks for the how to on replacing it 👍
@@ZachSteenbeke good deal. I think when they released the 4520, they said this part was beefier. Maybe it was a common issue. I know mine wasn’t from lack of grease.
This is a tutorial on how to replace the Ventrac Front/Rear Connector on a Ventrac 4500Z.
This seems to be the only video to repair this on all of UA-cam. Thank you for posting, was going to have the dealership do it but it looks simple enough to handle. 👍🏼
Love your videos, excellent in explanation, and tips to help watchers
I appreciate that!
Thanks for the video. Dealer had told me that my link was worn but I hadn't got around to dealing with it thinking it was going to be a big job. Now that I see it's simple I just ordered the parts. Thanks also for the new part numbers as many of them are different from what's in my manual.
You’re welcome. Glad you found it helpful!
I have a 4500P and have owned it for 7 years and have some 400 hours on it. I have replaced the front/rear connector link as you have nicely demonstrated in this video number of years ago and this year I am noticing the same 'play' in my linkage as I did years ago and am contemplating its replacement. My question is what are your thoughts on replacing the center main pivot (42.0553)? It also seems to be a key player in the pivot function.
I was told by a very reputable Ventrac dealer that the new bar was designed so the pivots inside could be replaced. Was also told they do not need to be painted. They have not seen one that was replaced rust.
Good to know.
I have the parts on hnad to do this job when I get a "round tuit". My 4500Z has about 1,000 hours on it and has had slack fore to aft since the first time I checked for it, which was before the 200 hour check-up. When it was new it had the "Ventrac squeak" which was a high pitched and loud metal on metal sound in tight turns on slopes. At the 50 hour service I found those two zerks had never been greased! Totally dry and clean other than some rust on the swivel balls. Grease with moly stopped the squeak but I bet the bolts are well worn. It has gotten worse. The other,higher up, swivel ball joint seems tight. I do nost think the bolts tensioning the swivel balls on the new design are for ball replacement, but rather for re-tensioning the ball to compensate for wear, but I see no mention of that in the latest version of the owner's manual. I am going to ask Ventrac what the procedure is for checking those bols.
Follow-up: The Ventrac online chat "help" refused to answer two questions. One, does this unpainted piece need to be painted? Two, is there a torque value to be checked fir those two bolts that tenstion the swivel balls. Advised me to ask my dealership. (How is that for help?) I asked the dealership and they asked Ventrac. Answers provided: "Paint not neded" and "There is no service interval or service torque on the two bolts as they have been pre-set at factory and have neoprene (?SIC?) lock nuts". I speculate they meant Nylock lock nuts and, if so, they are prone to damage stainless alloy threads if adjusted, or so I have been told. If the bolts are stainless, then the front to rear bar is also likely to be.
I appreciate all of the information!
Just curious. Would it be possible to repair the old one? Looks like a machinist could replace that bearing.
I’m sure it could be done. Not sure you’d save any money unless you were able to repair it yourself though.
The problem with the old style of link is that the hardened bearing is welded onto it causing the metal to loose its hardness due to the heat generated during the welding process.
Probably right.
Was this causing issues with transport?
I could feel the bearing sliding inside the linkage when i went between forward and reverse.
@@ZoysiaRUs my 4500z is binding when in transport (rabbit) mode almost like it’s fighting it self and hopping but travels fine in the mow (turtle) mode. Found this bearing completely blown out and is flexing tremendously so I’m almost certain this is what is causing my issue. Thanks for the how to on replacing it 👍
@@ZachSteenbeke good deal.
I think when they released the 4520, they said this part was beefier. Maybe it was a common issue. I know mine wasn’t from lack of grease.