I will try to get that info for you soon. I know the pressure is plenty high. Not sure about raw TDS though. The TDS meter is between the membrane and the DI stage.
I have the Vertex boost pump system with a Chloro block added. I installed a BRS float on my mix tank. The problem is that it cycles the auto shut-off many times unless I intervene by lowering the float deeper once I hear it cycling. I can't imagine letting it cycle on and off so many times can be good for the longevity of the system. I guess the only solutions would be a float that "sticks" open longer or the ability to adjust the shut-off pressure? Ideas?
Already covered, but once the float back pressure builds up apparently it keeps a trickle and the unit starts and stops many times before the float is deep enough to stop the flow completely.
Another sweet video. The Autoflush valve, is it complicated to setup with out the booster pump? Any idea how much electric it uses and if it uses power 24/7 or just once an hour? How long does it stay open for? Really interested in using these for our own RO and our clients, but just want to get the full scoop. Thanks in advance for your response.
Thanks for the nice videos on RO systems. I'm a freshwater guy, but know the reefers have the low down on RO systems. I've considered a setup for sometime to get the ideal water parameters. I haven't had a hard time with hard water when growing nearly any plants, but can see a benefit to providing more ideal conditions for the plants and fish. These videos have been very helpful. I'd like to store RO and mix for a desired KH then pump to different tanks for water changes. Do you have a suggestion on how to setup a delivery system for the stored RO? Would simply using a pump after an outlet work? Thanks!
Thanks for the reply. This is what I had assumed, although not the remote outlet...that is just pure style. Since my system would be for fresh I'm also assuming instead of a second container where salt is mixed I could use the second container to reconstitute to my desired levels of KH and GH. Any recommendations on where to get good containers? Preferably some with volume measurements for reference since I could be using as little as 20 gallons and as much as 80 gallons at a time and would need to reconstitute the replacement volume. thanks!
I'm looking into getting the BRS 6-Stage Velue Plus and was wondering if your RO/DI systems come with their first set of filters or if they need to be purchased separately. Thanks for all the great videos. Lots of great information.
It appears you are coming from the Aquarium side of R.O. systems. I just got a home with a R.O. system for drinking water only. Does everything in this video still apply to a drinking water system? Same recommendations for filters etc... thanks!
For the most part, yes. The biggest difference is that we use DI resin in our RO filters for our aquariums. For drinking water, you would want to exclude that stage.
Awesome info as always! You think a Permeate pump is needed/beneficial if there's a booster pump on the system? I do have it set up for drinking water as well.
I just added the Aquatec 8800 booster pump to my BRS 6 stage RO system. I have a drinking water storage tank installed also. What is the maximum pressure that I should run the pump at? It is located before the RO. Thanks.
BTW my water pressure into the unit has been throttled back from 130 psi to 70 psi so I assume that I would need to increase the pressure if I added more than 1 additional membranes.
i istall Dual DI Resin Container, but instate of reduce the TDS it increase and if i test each Container Separately i get a lower TDS (1 container give me 20 TDS, 2 Container give me 25 TDS no mater what container are before)
id imagine your incoming home TDS is too high. although the 150gpd upgrade cuts waste water in half, id imagine the efficiency of each membrane is slightly decreased which would explain the jump in TDS.
How many ppm will ro system remove. Mine is 500 on a good day. I am buying 3 filter-2 RO in series, 2 DI units in series. Before the water gets to those DI's, how bad's it going to be? And if its bad, its gunna chew up those DI's Do I need some kind of other system before this thing? These questions are your doing.. been watching your vids THANKS
The RO membrane is what does most of the work in terms of removing TDS. You'll want to stick with a single membrane since your source water TDS is so high (do not use a dual membrane water saver version). Higher pressure in the 80ish psi range can also help greatly. Most quality membranes have a rejection rate of upwards of 98-99% at peak efficiency, like our 75 GPD membrane for example. You may also benefit from running our Pro Series triple DI resin setup so that you an change only the type of resin that is being exhausted, rather than a mixed bed.
I have the brs water saver plus system. The TDS meter shows 9-10 going into The DI stage. How can I reduce this number so I don't go through di resin so fast?
What I always wanted to know is what is the best micron rating. The variation in micron settings from one unit to another is quite large. My system came with sediment and carbon block micron ratings of .5 microns. BRS systems come with 5 micron pre filters. Does it matter? What is optimal?
Truth is, for a vast majority of water sources, any of these options will work great to protect the more expensive filters down stream, like the RO membrane. Most reefers will use the 1 micron sediment filters because it's a good middle ground between performance and longevity. Most of our BRS systems now come with 1 micron sediment filters with the exception of some of the value systems. The larger the micron rating, the longer the sediment filter will last, but the more particles it'll let through and vice versa. www.bulkreefsupply.com/10-purtrex-sediment-filter.html
You Rock, thanks to this video I am right now at BRS adding some much needed items to my cart. Question..where can I get the spesific water storage bins at 7:53?
hi, i have a vertex 200l rodi system with a built in auto shutoff system. however i notice the pressure gauge is always at 110psi is this a problem at this pressure?
I want to get an under sink tank to fill buckets for my aquarium. My question is , Does the tank lose pressure when less water is in it? Or can I use this to fill buckets from the faucet attachment.
The tank will lose pressure to a certain degree, especially when there is little water in the tank. This probably isn't the greatest solution for filling buckets as most pressurized tanks only hold a few gallons at a time.
@@BRStv thanks. Ive seen some RO units with another output for putting into a freezer for Ice. Could I just fill buckets with a seperate output and not use the tank?
I have added a third membrane and can make up water significantly faster and appreciate the higher water yield and less waste water. I don't mind replacing the the di resin as the faster time pays for itself and all the other positives associated. I'm currently running 90 psi through the system. I was thinking of possibly adding a forth or maybe even a fifth. When would be a good time to max out? Also, if I decide to add another membrane would you advise me to add a third or forth di resin cartridge? I already have a dual however seems like I may burn through much more di resin if I go forward. Will these membranes still last 3 years like they state despite adding more membranes? Any advise or additional tips would be great. Thanks. Awesome video btw.
why not get a 450gpd system like i use for window cleaning in the UK? the unit is no bigger than the ones in the vid but has 3 150gpd membranes on top I can easily make up to 1000l a day if needed and it comes out before di at 3ppm with my supply tds at nearly 300ppm mine cost £170 so not much in usd
Isn't RO water too clean? I heard all you need to do is run carbon by itself. If you're going through the membrane as well on top of the sediment and dual carbon stages could this deplete the water of it's essential minerals and other beneficial elements? I want to make sure I'm benefiting from the water, but at the same time want to make sure I'm removing what's necessary.
I have a filter system that is a Stingray rodi system with duel TDS and pressure pump from new the lowest the TDS gets down to is 1 ...usually starts off at about 15 and goes down to 1 after 5 minutes also have replaced first 2 filters because they were going green ...they are outside but not in the sun and the new filters are starting to go green but the 3rd is ok have you any suggestions to what I could do
thanks for your reply TDS metre was with the unit and the unit is RODI and the DI stage sits across the top of the unit there are 3 cartridges and one across the top that had a cartridge that was packed separate in a foil bag I think I am not shore just how many ltr's have gone through the unit but I would think that it would not be that much as I said the TDS metre has always read 1ppm regards Billy Mitchell
What if my water pressure pegs out the gauge? I added a prv(pressure reducing valve) set it to 75psi and have it plumbed in just before the RO unit. Should I move it to just in front of the RO membrane instead?
I’m a little confused on the auto shut off, I have my R/O system set up to be hooked up to my hose how does the auto shut off successfully shut the water off if the valve for the hose is on wouldn’t all that extra pressure make something blow up?
The auto shut off valve essentially has a little bladder inside of it that cuts off the flow to the membrane (and thus the waste water). The pressure will never be greater than your normal household water pressure
OK so I have done a lot of these upgrades. I have 150 gallon a day upgrade kit, a booster pump, a permeate pump, float valves, drinking water pressure tank. My booster pump keeps short cycling at 40 PSI pre- to membranes that are in series. It never seems to achieve 80 psi while it's filling my RO container. Can you guys share and installation diagram to make sure I have everything set up correctly. I pre-piped my house with 3/8 tubing so I only have one RO unit and I have three places that it delivers water to. The fridge, kitchen sink and my fish room.
It seems you RO booster pump is not working. It might have been clogged with debris. It should easily boost to higher than 80psi, so you should usually adjust to lower pressure a bit.
Hi, I am considering upgrading my system and adding a second membrane to increase my daily capacity and reduce waste water. My question is........how many additional membranes can I add in series? Can I run 3 membranes in series for example?
Im in the middle of upgrading my ro system and I’ve now added 150gpd membrane kit but I’m wondering where I add the auto shut off valve. Do I add it off the first membrane or the second?
Tap water ice cubes are gross! We use RO for both drinking water and ice cubes. Luckily our refrigerator is located directly above our salt mixing station and RODI, so we can use the same filter for both.
Mainly, just a lot of wasted water. This won't cause any harm to your RO system other than the fact that all of the extra water is running through your pre-filters (sediment and carbon block), so depending on how many hours we're talking here, it could deplete those particular filters faster.
I'm asking because I have some recent issues with a brand new 3 stage Aqua Medic inline unit 300l/d that stoped working after a week of use and the only unusual thing I did was that I forgot the flushing valve opened for 3h. The prefilter seems to get clogged after 3h of functioning but seems to work again after a respit and then clogs again. Any thoughts on this?
Oh no! It's never fun to deal with issues like that. If this is a BRS system, reach out to our customer service team and they should be able to help you out.
Appreciate your to the point summary on each product. Good work!
Great video. You answered all the questions I had about home RO systems. Thank you!
Thank you Sr
Nice recap - very informative - thank you
Great information... thanks
I will try to get that info for you soon. I know the pressure is plenty high. Not sure about raw TDS though. The TDS meter is between the membrane and the DI stage.
I have the Vertex boost pump system with a Chloro block added. I installed a BRS float on my mix tank. The problem is that it cycles the auto shut-off many times unless I intervene by lowering the float deeper once I hear it cycling. I can't imagine letting it cycle on and off so many times can be good for the longevity of the system. I guess the only solutions would be a float that "sticks" open longer or the ability to adjust the shut-off pressure? Ideas?
Already covered, but once the float back pressure builds up apparently it keeps a trickle and the unit starts and stops many times before the float is deep enough to stop the flow completely.
If you're serious about leasing and ro/di unit is an essential piece of equipment happy reefing
Great video! THANKS!
Good information - thanks for the video!
Another sweet video.
The Autoflush valve, is it complicated to setup with out the booster pump? Any idea how much electric it uses and if it uses power 24/7 or just once an hour? How long does it stay open for? Really interested in using these for our own RO and our clients, but just want to get the full scoop. Thanks in advance for your response.
Thanks for the nice videos on RO systems. I'm a freshwater guy, but know the reefers have the low down on RO systems. I've considered a setup for sometime to get the ideal water parameters. I haven't had a hard time with hard water when growing nearly any plants, but can see a benefit to providing more ideal conditions for the plants and fish. These videos have been very helpful. I'd like to store RO and mix for a desired KH then pump to different tanks for water changes. Do you have a suggestion on how to setup a delivery system for the stored RO? Would simply using a pump after an outlet work? Thanks!
Thanks for the reply. This is what I had assumed, although not the remote outlet...that is just pure style. Since my system would be for fresh I'm also assuming instead of a second container where salt is mixed I could use the second container to reconstitute to my desired levels of KH and GH. Any recommendations on where to get good containers? Preferably some with volume measurements for reference since I could be using as little as 20 gallons and as much as 80 gallons at a time and would need to reconstitute the replacement volume. thanks!
I'm looking into getting the BRS 6-Stage Velue Plus and was wondering if your RO/DI systems come with their first set of filters or if they need to be purchased separately. Thanks for all the great videos. Lots of great information.
Thanks again BRS!!!
Any options to remove CO2 without bubbling the water before the ro/di?
It appears you are coming from the Aquarium side of R.O. systems. I just got a home with a R.O. system for drinking water only. Does everything in this video still apply to a drinking water system? Same recommendations for filters etc... thanks!
For the most part, yes. The biggest difference is that we use DI resin in our RO filters for our aquariums. For drinking water, you would want to exclude that stage.
Hey brs i leave in Canada and i was wondering if your stores are located in some parts of Canada.
Awesome info as always! You think a Permeate pump is needed/beneficial if there's a booster pump on the system? I do have it set up for drinking water as well.
if you already have a booster pump, you don't need a permeate pump
I just added the Aquatec 8800 booster pump to my BRS 6 stage RO system. I have a drinking water storage tank installed also. What is the maximum pressure that I should run the pump at? It is located before the RO. Thanks.
BTW my water pressure into the unit has been throttled back from 130 psi to 70 psi so I assume that I would need to increase the pressure if I added more than 1 additional membranes.
i istall Dual DI Resin Container, but instate of reduce the TDS it increase and if i test each Container Separately i get a lower TDS (1 container give me 20 TDS, 2 Container give me 25 TDS no mater what container are before)
Thank you..
How to know if flash value is open mine is the same blue one in video, which why is the value supposed to be turn to produce water for reef tank,,,???
For step 14 can you use the water for your fish tank that comes through the valve above your sink?
id imagine your incoming home TDS is too high. although the 150gpd upgrade cuts waste water in half, id imagine the efficiency of each membrane is slightly decreased which would explain the jump in TDS.
How many ppm will ro system remove. Mine is 500 on a good day. I am buying 3 filter-2 RO in series, 2 DI units in series. Before the water gets to those DI's, how bad's it going to be? And if its bad, its gunna chew up those DI's
Do I need some kind of other system before this thing? These questions are your doing.. been watching your vids
THANKS
The RO membrane is what does most of the work in terms of removing TDS. You'll want to stick with a single membrane since your source water TDS is so high (do not use a dual membrane water saver version). Higher pressure in the 80ish psi range can also help greatly. Most quality membranes have a rejection rate of upwards of 98-99% at peak efficiency, like our 75 GPD membrane for example.
You may also benefit from running our Pro Series triple DI resin setup so that you an change only the type of resin that is being exhausted, rather than a mixed bed.
Sweet, thanks.
just got refills for my ro, any videos on how to change it?
I see some RO-DI units with their own onboard pumps... are these pumps as 'good' as external system units?
Great vidieo
I have the brs water saver plus system. The TDS meter shows 9-10 going into
The DI stage. How can I reduce this number so I don't go through di resin so fast?
What I always wanted to know is what is the best micron rating. The variation in micron settings from one unit to another is quite large. My system came with sediment and carbon block micron ratings of .5 microns. BRS systems come with 5 micron pre filters. Does it matter? What is optimal?
Truth is, for a vast majority of water sources, any of these options will work great to protect the more expensive filters down stream, like the RO membrane. Most reefers will use the 1 micron sediment filters because it's a good middle ground between performance and longevity. Most of our BRS systems now come with 1 micron sediment filters with the exception of some of the value systems. The larger the micron rating, the longer the sediment filter will last, but the more particles it'll let through and vice versa.
www.bulkreefsupply.com/10-purtrex-sediment-filter.html
You Rock, thanks to this video I am right now at BRS adding some much needed items to my cart.
Question..where can I get the spesific water storage bins at 7:53?
Thank You. Now just trying to figure out which model you got. they don't have pictures on all their models. thanks again!
***** That did it, Thank You! BRS it's #1
For anyone else interested; it's the Norwesco 65 Gallon Vertical Storage Tank, part # 45192
All of this stuff looks a little confusing but I think I'll get it in time
hi, i have a vertex 200l rodi system with a built in auto shutoff system. however i notice the pressure gauge is always at 110psi is this a problem at this pressure?
i see thank you
I want to get an under sink tank to fill buckets for my aquarium. My question is , Does the tank lose pressure when less water is in it? Or can I use this to fill buckets from the faucet attachment.
The tank will lose pressure to a certain degree, especially when there is little water in the tank. This probably isn't the greatest solution for filling buckets as most pressurized tanks only hold a few gallons at a time.
@@BRStv thanks.
Ive seen some RO units with another output for putting into a freezer for Ice. Could I just fill buckets with a seperate output and not use the tank?
I have added a third membrane and can make up water significantly faster and appreciate the higher water yield and less waste water. I don't mind replacing the the di resin as the faster time pays for itself and all the other positives associated. I'm currently running 90 psi through the system. I was thinking of possibly adding a forth or maybe even a fifth. When would be a good time to max out? Also, if I decide to add another membrane would you advise me to add a third or forth di resin cartridge? I already have a dual however seems like I may burn through much more di resin if I go forward. Will these membranes still last 3 years like they state despite adding more membranes? Any advise or additional tips would be great. Thanks. Awesome video btw.
why not get a 450gpd system like i use for window cleaning in the UK?
the unit is no bigger than the ones in the vid but has 3 150gpd membranes on top
I can easily make up to 1000l a day if needed and it comes out before di at 3ppm with my supply tds at nearly 300ppm
mine cost £170 so not much in usd
Can you list a source for the storage drums shown at 7:54? It's really hard to find storage containers with a large, positive closure.
My bulkreefsupply 5 stage plus rodi pressure gauge is not working what should I do thanks
Isn't RO water too clean? I heard all you need to do is run carbon by itself. If you're going through the membrane as well on top of the sediment and dual carbon stages could this deplete the water of it's essential minerals and other beneficial elements? I want to make sure I'm benefiting from the water, but at the same time want to make sure I'm removing what's necessary.
buy CONCENTRACE elements on Amazon and re-mineralize your RODI water with minerals. tastes great!
I have a filter system that is a Stingray rodi system with duel TDS and pressure pump
from new the lowest the TDS gets down to is 1 ...usually starts off at about 15 and goes down to 1 after 5 minutes
also have replaced first 2 filters because they were going green ...they are outside but not in the sun and the new filters are starting to go green but the 3rd is ok
have you any suggestions to what I could do
thanks for your reply
TDS metre was with the unit and the unit is RODI and the DI stage sits across the top of the unit
there are 3 cartridges and one across the top that had a cartridge that was packed separate in a foil bag I think
I am not shore just how many ltr's have gone through the unit but I would think that it would not be that much
as I said the TDS metre has always read 1ppm
regards
Billy Mitchell
What if my water pressure pegs out the gauge? I added a prv(pressure reducing valve) set it to 75psi and have it plumbed in just before the RO unit. Should I move it to just in front of the RO membrane instead?
Before the RO system as a whole would be best. This way, your pre-filters won't be subjected to 100+ PSI and you'll reduce the chance for a leak.
@@BRStv thanks for the reply! You guys are awesome!!!
Hi, What is an acceptable ppm TDS reading for Ro Water??.... im gonna start Fish only with Live rock... what range is acceptable?
I’m a little confused on the auto shut off, I have my R/O system set up to be hooked up to my hose how does the auto shut off successfully shut the water off if the valve for the hose is on wouldn’t all that extra pressure make something blow up?
The auto shut off valve essentially has a little bladder inside of it that cuts off the flow to the membrane (and thus the waste water). The pressure will never be greater than your normal household water pressure
@@BRStv thank you so much for explaining that!
OK so I have done a lot of these upgrades. I have 150 gallon a day upgrade kit, a booster pump, a permeate pump, float valves, drinking water pressure tank. My booster pump keeps short cycling at 40 PSI pre- to membranes that are in series. It never seems to achieve 80 psi while it's filling my RO container. Can you guys share and installation diagram to make sure I have everything set up correctly. I pre-piped my house with 3/8 tubing so I only have one RO unit and I have three places that it delivers water to. The fridge, kitchen sink and my fish room.
It seems you RO booster pump is not working. It might have been clogged with debris. It should easily boost to higher than 80psi, so you should usually adjust to lower pressure a bit.
Hi, I am considering upgrading my system and adding a second membrane to increase my daily capacity and reduce waste water. My question is........how many additional membranes can I add in series? Can I run 3 membranes in series for example?
yes, your final TDS will be slightly higher and waste ratio will be lower.
Hi I've just set up my ro system and it's got built-in auto flush just wondering how long it take to auto flush thanks
ahh ok cool thanks mine must have something rong wive it thanks
Im in the middle of upgrading my ro system and I’ve now added 150gpd membrane kit but I’m wondering where I add the auto shut off valve. Do I add it off the first membrane or the second?
Thank you brs
So, If I understood correctly, that would be one ASV after each membrane. yes?
Tap water ice cubes are gross! We use RO for both drinking water and ice cubes. Luckily our refrigerator is located directly above our salt mixing station and RODI, so we can use the same filter for both.
Nice
do i remove the flow restrictor and manual flush kit if I installed an autoflush valve?
you still need the flow restrictor, just replace the manual flush valve with autoflush valve.
Before the 150 Gal up Grade TDS going into the DI was 4 and out was 0, now it's 50 in and out 0. What gives.
If I buy a 4 stage rodi unit will it be difficult to up grade it to a 5 stage?
not difficult, just add the 5th stage to the system.
Video coming about installing the upgrade kit coming soon? (4:17)
What happens if you forget the flush valve opened for hours?
Mainly, just a lot of wasted water. This won't cause any harm to your RO system other than the fact that all of the extra water is running through your pre-filters (sediment and carbon block), so depending on how many hours we're talking here, it could deplete those particular filters faster.
Was about 3h...
I'm asking because I have some recent issues with a brand new 3 stage Aqua Medic inline unit 300l/d that stoped working after a week of use and the only unusual thing I did was that I forgot the flushing valve opened for 3h. The prefilter seems to get clogged after 3h of functioning but seems to work again after a respit and then clogs again. Any thoughts on this?
@@cosminchisu6205 replaces prefilters.
How can I install two pressure tanks ?
install them in parallel with a T fitting
Can I use 4 DI canisters on my RO/DI unit
2 is enough as the 1st will be clogged and reduce flow speed. Unless you install all 4 in parallel
I have ro for drinking water only. I don't own an aquarium. I can't drink anything but ro water now.
👍👍
My auto shutoff valve stop working my water bill is still in the stratosphere
Oh no! It's never fun to deal with issues like that. If this is a BRS system, reach out to our customer service team and they should be able to help you out.
Reefing
Cash 🐄 lol but I guess it's worth it