Why didn’t I think of that! I use tabs when I design for CNC projects cut w/ a Shaper Origin, but it hadn’t occurred to me that I can intentionally create a tabbed brim in Fusion 360 instead of settling for Bambu Labs slicer’s version. And I love the “tear off” tab. I really appreciate this. It will up my 3D printing game!
Nice Video - you could have made one parameter "nozzleSize"=0.4mm and referenced this in the other parameters so you can scale for different nozzles even faster ;-)
Neat ideas, and ones I will use. I'd have set the parameters before sketching, too. A couple of suggestions: I'd use the offset command (shortcut "O") in the sketch to create the outer rectangle at your parameterised offset instead of setting several dimensions, and I'd have set parameters for "nozzle_width" and "layer_height", then used those as the basis for the others. If you add the "Parameter I/O" app from the Autodesk app store, you can export your parameters for reuse in the next small object you want to create tabbed brims for.
Great idea! I am actually thinking of creating the frame (without a part) and save it as a "frame temple" then I can import the STEP file. Then all I have to do is adjust for the tab placement.
@@agarza6475 depending on your slicer you may be able to combine them there. I believe prusa and bamboo let you join 2 files to print as one 🤔 of course I would be surprised if you couldn't do the same in other slicers. Of course it totally depends on your workflow and what's most convenient for you.
Good video but seems like your bed adhesion is not good. I printed way smaller and higher parts without any brims. I just upped the bed temp by 5-10°C and cleaned my buildplate with (classic dishsoap) not that new sensitive stuff that has oils in it. If it says it's good for your hands than it's bad for your buildplate. After that with 99° Isoproylalcohol and a sponge.
9:26 This shot might be a clue as to why the adhesion is poor. Man needs to print a scraper and use it religiously. Can't believe how much of a difference not touching the print surface made for my prints.
Good point to clean proper your build plate. I tend to use cheap methylated spirits and dish soap. Works like a charm. And if the PEI plate is used for a long time with lots of different filaments I clean it with a kitchen sponge (rough side). This gives also good adhesion. It's like sanding your PEI plate with fine sand paper. After that clean it again with dish soap or spirits.
@@Phoen1x883yeah I never touch my build plate with my hands. Always using a scraper and no touching. I use one coat of 3DLAC after cleaning the build plate as well just for a little bit extra adhesion.
I'm going to agree with this, I haven't had a single print fail to adhere on my A1 regardless of geometry, treat the build plate like it's a stove element that's always on. We leave oils on everything we touch, we just can't see it, so it's not an easily enforceable habit. Clean with iso at random if it's been a bit since it was used, always clean if you had to run across any part of the main surface. Get a little spritz bottle that has a good dispersion to it, it will last forever and make cleaning like this stupid easy. I also have a feeling that you should go with higher iso concentrations, the less water in it the better, also because it attacks the oils better.
Cool idea. Would it work if there was a small gap between the tab and the part? Like .1 or .2 mm? It might give you an effective bed adhesion while allowing the tabs to pop off the parts more easily. It might also help to make the tabs wedge shaped so they're 1 layer thick where they touch the part but multiple layers thick where they touch the base. That could make them more likely to attach to the bed than the part when you remove the part from the bed.
@@FilmFactry I strongly recommend using a chamfer on the face touching the bed. The reason is that the changing angle of a fillet curve will exceed the critical overhang angle and cause print issues. If you have a tiny radius it may not cause issues because it's such a small change, but I have seen print issues multiple times from using a fillet that faces the build platform. I think Gabe from Slant3D even mentioned that issue in a video. That said, yes, I really encourage using fillets especially on vertical edges (with relation to the build platform). Always avoid sharp corners if you can, it prints slower and concentrates stresses. That said, on this tiny model I didn't chamfer the bottom like I normally do because it was such a small part and I was trying to increase bed contact area. Also I wanted to use the edge of this part as a measuring tool in between knots. So this part is a bit of an exception but my normal design rules are chamfer edges towards the build face to control the overhang angle and fillet everywhere I can fillet, especially corners because it will print faster and be stronger. I hope that answered your question.
@@CraigHollabaugh for this particular part it was cleaner to snap them off on a straight side, and it seemed to be sufficient to get 100% success rate... with this particular part. But in general if you need to add additional bed adhesion features I would expect that they would need to be added at the corners. In fact my first version of this part used corner tabs, but I decided to show it on the edges to share the idea that it MIGHT be sufficient and so depending on how much optimization you are willing to do is something to consider.
@@Knatte_Anka Good question. In the second half of the video I show doing the array in Fusion and also adding features to the frame to improve printing and make it easier to remove
The reason on why parts fell off is because they wrap at sharp edges. The thing what you are doing does not help and it takes additional time. External brims with deburring tool are much faster and better in terms of manufacturing process
@@wiktorstarzak6410 you are correct that one reason why parts detach is from warping. This is most prominent on large parts and materials like ABS. I mentioned in the video that you can attach the tabs at the sharp edges or wherever you prefer for your application. In this particular caae that I demonstrated, it is a very small part with a small contact point and it's relatively tall. I was printing it in PETG which is not particularly prone to warping. For this tiny part the relative nozzle movement was enough to cause it to detach. Therefore, I placed the tabs on straight edges because it made them easier to detach cleanly and provided sufficient support to make successful prints. I tested the parts with and without this technique and groups of parts always failed without it, and I didn't get a single failure while printing these parts using this technique. You are correct that it takes longer to set this up than to simply turn on the brim. If you were only printing a single part I wouldn't recommend this because it will take longer to design than it will take to clean off the brim. However in my application of printing a large number of these it's worth the design time because it reduces the processing time. I did test this tiny part with a brim and a deburring tool and it took longer to run the deburring tool than to just snap off the tabs. This technique has trade offs like every solution. This is not a solution for all cases, but for some cases it is the best solution. I'm sharing it with the community so that others can test and evaluate it and hopefully find applications where it saves them time as well.
@@_RsX_ that makes sense, I haven't tried orca slicer yet. Thank you for telling me about this feature, I can see it being very useful for certain parts!
Why didn’t I think of that! I use tabs when I design for CNC projects cut w/ a Shaper Origin, but it hadn’t occurred to me that I can intentionally create a tabbed brim in Fusion 360 instead of settling for Bambu Labs slicer’s version. And I love the “tear off” tab. I really appreciate this. It will up my 3D printing game!
Nice Video - you could have made one parameter "nozzleSize"=0.4mm and referenced this in the other parameters so you can scale for different nozzles even faster ;-)
@@WAINTDEIR you are right, I'll do that next time, and also set a "layerHeight" parameter as well!
Very nice, love the design flow though process
Great technique. Gonna try this tonight!
Great tips, especially like the tear-off tab. Subscribed.
Neat ideas, and ones I will use. I'd have set the parameters before sketching, too. A couple of suggestions: I'd use the offset command (shortcut "O") in the sketch to create the outer rectangle at your parameterised offset instead of setting several dimensions, and I'd have set parameters for "nozzle_width" and "layer_height", then used those as the basis for the others. If you add the "Parameter I/O" app from the Autodesk app store, you can export your parameters for reuse in the next small object you want to create tabbed brims for.
@@pnt1035 glad you found the information useful. Thank you for the tips! Very good suggestions.
Many great ideas and tips here! Thank you.
BTW, the Fusion Align tool is a quicker way to move a model to the XY plane.
@@Timboykee I'm glad you found some useful information. And thank you for the tip!
Great idea! I am actually thinking of creating the frame (without a part) and save it as a "frame temple" then I can import the STEP file. Then all I have to do is adjust for the tab placement.
@@agarza6475 depending on your slicer you may be able to combine them there. I believe prusa and bamboo let you join 2 files to print as one 🤔 of course I would be surprised if you couldn't do the same in other slicers. Of course it totally depends on your workflow and what's most convenient for you.
This is an awesome guide! Thanks for making this!
Glad it was helpful!
Good video but seems like your bed adhesion is not good. I printed way smaller and higher parts without any brims. I just upped the bed temp by 5-10°C and cleaned my buildplate with (classic dishsoap) not that new sensitive stuff that has oils in it. If it says it's good for your hands than it's bad for your buildplate. After that with 99° Isoproylalcohol and a sponge.
@@DanielSchweinert that's a good point, I need to try your technique on my build platform.
9:26 This shot might be a clue as to why the adhesion is poor. Man needs to print a scraper and use it religiously. Can't believe how much of a difference not touching the print surface made for my prints.
Good point to clean proper your build plate. I tend to use cheap methylated spirits and dish soap. Works like a charm. And if the PEI plate is used for a long time with lots of different filaments I clean it with a kitchen sponge (rough side). This gives also good adhesion. It's like sanding your PEI plate with fine sand paper. After that clean it again with dish soap or spirits.
@@Phoen1x883yeah I never touch my build plate with my hands. Always using a scraper and no touching.
I use one coat of 3DLAC after cleaning the build plate as well just for a little bit extra adhesion.
I'm going to agree with this, I haven't had a single print fail to adhere on my A1 regardless of geometry, treat the build plate like it's a stove element that's always on. We leave oils on everything we touch, we just can't see it, so it's not an easily enforceable habit. Clean with iso at random if it's been a bit since it was used, always clean if you had to run across any part of the main surface. Get a little spritz bottle that has a good dispersion to it, it will last forever and make cleaning like this stupid easy. I also have a feeling that you should go with higher iso concentrations, the less water in it the better, also because it attacks the oils better.
Cool idea. Would it work if there was a small gap between the tab and the part? Like .1 or .2 mm? It might give you an effective bed adhesion while allowing the tabs to pop off the parts more easily. It might also help to make the tabs wedge shaped so they're 1 layer thick where they touch the part but multiple layers thick where they touch the base. That could make them more likely to attach to the bed than the part when you remove the part from the bed.
Your style is excellent. Very enjoyable to watch, even for a vterin 3DP and CAD nut ;-)
Glad you enjoyed it!
AMAZING!!! great video, thank you
Glad you liked it!
your thoughts. SLANT3D says its best not to have right angles on the bed or even your model, that you should FILLET so you get less shrinkage?
@@FilmFactry I strongly recommend using a chamfer on the face touching the bed. The reason is that the changing angle of a fillet curve will exceed the critical overhang angle and cause print issues. If you have a tiny radius it may not cause issues because it's such a small change, but I have seen print issues multiple times from using a fillet that faces the build platform. I think Gabe from Slant3D even mentioned that issue in a video.
That said, yes, I really encourage using fillets especially on vertical edges (with relation to the build platform). Always avoid sharp corners if you can, it prints slower and concentrates stresses.
That said, on this tiny model I didn't chamfer the bottom like I normally do because it was such a small part and I was trying to increase bed contact area. Also I wanted to use the edge of this part as a measuring tool in between knots. So this part is a bit of an exception but my normal design rules are chamfer edges towards the build face to control the overhang angle and fillet everywhere I can fillet, especially corners because it will print faster and be stronger. I hope that answered your question.
@@buildtestbuild Yes thank you. This was my first video of your, and I subscribed:-)
Any reason why your tabs aren't connected to the part corners? Also, the single pull up tab for easy bed removal is so smart. Thanks.
@@CraigHollabaugh for this particular part it was cleaner to snap them off on a straight side, and it seemed to be sufficient to get 100% success rate... with this particular part.
But in general if you need to add additional bed adhesion features I would expect that they would need to be added at the corners. In fact my first version of this part used corner tabs, but I decided to show it on the edges to share the idea that it MIGHT be sufficient and so depending on how much optimization you are willing to do is something to consider.
@@buildtestbuild thanks!
Great idea, thanks. BTW, link not working.
You are right, I think I've fixed it now. If not please let me know and I'll dig into it further. I appreciate the feedback.
Why not do the array and all in fusion? So its one file ready to print
@@Knatte_Anka Good question. In the second half of the video I show doing the array in Fusion and also adding features to the frame to improve printing and make it easier to remove
The reason on why parts fell off is because they wrap at sharp edges. The thing what you are doing does not help and it takes additional time.
External brims with deburring tool are much faster and better in terms of manufacturing process
@@wiktorstarzak6410 you are correct that one reason why parts detach is from warping. This is most prominent on large parts and materials like ABS. I mentioned in the video that you can attach the tabs at the sharp edges or wherever you prefer for your application.
In this particular caae that I demonstrated, it is a very small part with a small contact point and it's relatively tall. I was printing it in PETG which is not particularly prone to warping. For this tiny part the relative nozzle movement was enough to cause it to detach. Therefore, I placed the tabs on straight edges because it made them easier to detach cleanly and provided sufficient support to make successful prints. I tested the parts with and without this technique and groups of parts always failed without it, and I didn't get a single failure while printing these parts using this technique.
You are correct that it takes longer to set this up than to simply turn on the brim. If you were only printing a single part I wouldn't recommend this because it will take longer to design than it will take to clean off the brim. However in my application of printing a large number of these it's worth the design time because it reduces the processing time.
I did test this tiny part with a brim and a deburring tool and it took longer to run the deburring tool than to just snap off the tabs.
This technique has trade offs like every solution. This is not a solution for all cases, but for some cases it is the best solution. I'm sharing it with the community so that others can test and evaluate it and hopefully find applications where it saves them time as well.
Also there is already an option in the slicer to put the brim only on the sharp edges.
@@_RsX_ I'm not familiar with that setting, which slicer are you using and what do they call the option?
@@buildtestbuildit's called "Mouse ear" in Orca Slicer. I thought the option was also available in Bambu Studio but it is not.
@@_RsX_ that makes sense, I haven't tried orca slicer yet. Thank you for telling me about this feature, I can see it being very useful for certain parts!
make the tabs 2 layers high and reduce it to one layer right next to the piece so it tears from there.
That's a good idea, I need to look at engineering the break behavior further
offset twice and then make tabs takes 30 seconds..
@@jakeMTSU you are right, your method is much faster than what I showed for a rectangular part!