Sway bars is such a underrated mod. Did a solid big rear bar for my MK7 GTi what a difference! Just replaced the end links and bar bushings on my daily. No more clunking.
What you proved here is that you need to have the front and rear bars in balance with each other clearly. If the handling balances and there's minimal body roll, the lowest settings on both seem the most sensible!
Good job! I put Hotchkiss bars and MOOG drop links on my 2003 Track. I have them both on the stiffest settings; I love how it’s flatter when cornering but I suspect it would be too lively if I went to the track. 😳 The Hotchkiss bars have an extra hole in each. Removing the rear bar is like a puzzle. If you get it angled just right there is no need to remove the exhaust nor brace. 😊
One time i was on track and my rear sway bar link came off and i didnt noticed untill i spun on every corner i thought the weather is not good and the track temperature is some how not good ... But later i found out during some normal inspection that rear sway bar link was not attached .. thats how i know how much difference it made on my car
I see your car needs to be introduced to Rustoleum "REFORMER" ...YOU WILL LIKE IT ! Usually replacing worn Sports Car parts makes it handle ,Smartly Again. I mean that factory did a good job....its a Sports Car Really increasing track times, tires and shocks would have helped more. Sway bars are like the end of the chain....almost like if all else fails We have anti sway bars....! Most modern cars , but this is a SPORTS CAR...have good anti sway bars. I would say if you had just replaced worn components , you would have more money in your pocket for some savings towards adjustable shocks. But this was and is a good lesson. Great Video ! On last think , lots of enthusiasts by adjustable components ( more money ) set things close to factory And thats that. Truely unless your car is a track car...so many could save some money well a good chunk of change.... A car like a Z Has performance in its design . Its hard to improve over the wide range of conditions the factory engineered into the car. We all know shocks and tires are most effective ways to improve from the factory/marketing compromises .
Good educational video on the sway bar setups for the Z, Great episode. Can't wait to see future updates on a Plenum spacer, cold air intake, and possibly a tune ;).
This is a good point. I had this white line kit on my old Impreza and wasn’t happy with the extra understeer from the front ARB. In the end I took it off - back to standard - and left the rear on. It was perfect.
Really enjoying the channel, great content but given I like the 350Z and M3 E92's this channel was a great find. Looking forward to more videos and thanks for dedicating the time to making the videos, great content.
Your 350z series is so awesome! It has given me so much inspiration for prepping my 350z for the track! I think your next mod should be an exhaust to bring out the wonderful note of the V6! I highly recommend doing a 'back box delete', I found a welder that did it for me for £100 and it makes the car much louder and makes it sound 100 times better, I don't know why but it makes it 'feel' like you're accelerating faster even though it has minimal effect on acceleration. The stock exhaust does absolutely no justice to the V6.
Goes to show that the stock sway bars are pretty decent for the Z. But if you are an enthusiast then of course you're going to upgrade. I put Hotchkiss on my Z
I agree the improvement in other areas like shocks ( external adjustable ones) and or tires would have contributed to faster lap times better then Sway bars. Sway bars are almost ...the result of tires and shocks --- then the sway bars come into play at the end like a last ditch effort.. Fix. I can only imagine, the state of the shocks , knowing the state of the stock sway bar links and mounts.
I put the same set up, “white line” on my 08 roadster. I noticed the difference, and keep it on the softer setting up front, and middle in the rear. I’m happy with the steering, but need coilovers for the bounce in the car. It gets a little whooshy. Also, at very high speed, I notice the front gets light. Thinking about a front end chin spoiler. Great video.
The stock bars look quite beefy to begin with.. I put a fat rear swaybar on my Celica when I had it, really transformed the handling and made it turn in really nicely. Made it a bit oversteery especially if you were heavy on the brakes around a corner
@@gh-cu1jh its not a cheap out...in the way your thinking. In their mind , its to still, make the car, understeer....which works for 87 % of "wanabe Performance Drivers " They figure real drivers will up grade to Real Performance Equipment , all on their own. Its another reason High Performance cars are so expensive......to keep them out of the hands of "average drivers" that simply can not Drive Competent.
Oh. Having promoted anti-roll bars for your 350Z so much, I am a little ashamed it did not change your car that much for the better as they did mine. I hope you are not too disappointed. Maybe when changing more components of the suspension, the ability to adjust the stiffness to cope with excessive under or oversteer will come in handy. Especially when meeting unexpected weather conditions like heavy rain that adjustable rear sway bar might come in handy. Do you drive with ESP on or off? Is it possible to see when the ESP is active because its dashboard light is blinking? It would be interesting to see whether the ESP works less with better anti roll bars. The better my old M3s overall set up got, the less work the ESP had to do.
Yeah, did think they’d make more difference but glad I swapped them anyway. I turn the ESP off when in track as it cuts in too much. Yeah, I think you are right about changing more components.
it's such a shame seeing all of that rust underneath. I know it can't be helped in some areas like the rust belt of the u.s.. I bought a Z in California and it still looks like new underneath. which I know you're going to say shut up and go away but I'm sympathetic... the lap times aren't improving because you haven't upgraded the rest of the suspension yet.
Some suspension mods may make the car feel "better", while not really increase measured performance. This is such an example. I got stiffer sways for my Subie and I liked the feel, but that didn't necessarily translate into better lap times.
Hmmmmmm. My 04 Z has virtually no sway or roll in hard turns with the stock parts. Your car looks to be in a bit worse shape then mine though. So, an upgrade of the tired bushings would probably be in order. My bar, bushings and struts are in excellent like new condition. It is funny because my car has 127K miles on it and looks like new in comparison. I guess that because I live in Florida USA I don't have the weather issues you all have in the UK.
Well, oversteer did work fine 😉😄😉 ,that was funny Interesting video, I would have thought there would be more difference. Did you have the feeling of losing a bit of traction when accelerating out of a corner with the stiffer rear setting? Because that's something what can happen, but of course depends on how much difference in stiffness there is. Great video, I like that you also show the difficulties that can happen when doing such work (rusty bolts). Greetings from Bavaria
Thanks mate. No didn’t have that feeling with the rear but we only had time to test the stiffer rear with stiffer front. Glad to see you liked the “real world” issues with rusty bolts!
On my car, the Whiteline anti-roll bars where not thicker but made from solid steel while the original anti-roll bars where tubes. I assume being massive also made them stiffer. And heavier.
@@oliverb.7860 bars being solid instead of hollow doesn't make a difference. Hollow can be just as sturdy. Usually the key difference is having additional bolt holes where you can bring the mounting point closer to the bar itself - thereby giving it different leverage and better stiffness.
Great video. My whiteline kit just arrived this morning so I'm looking forward to fitting it Sounds like soft front and middle setting in the rear would be ok for daily driving?
Motorbooks , get a buyers guide. It will tell you all the pit falls thru the years. Money very well spent. It will make you an expert. You have youtube to show you how to do anything on your car. And the internet to buy parts as low as you can buy..... The only thing to fear , is fear itself. Life is to short....get one enjoy it get it out of your system. But first Get a "buyers guide"
2007 Z4? Nice car. Drive one a few years ago and liked it. The fast ones are still more expensive than the Z as far as I remember? Probably has less rust!
Do you just tap thread into the old snapped stub? Did you try an easy out stub remover first? Just interested as it’s always nice to know a few tips on removing snapped bolts.
Hello! I’m planning on doing this too and have the exact model and color Z as you! Mine is a bit rusty as well and I’m scared I’ll break the bolts too. How will I go about getting them out of it happens?
You guys in the UK really need to petition your government to stop salting the roads, it is absolutely destroying your cars, In Ireland our cars are much less rusty and if we see a rusty car 9 times out of 10 it is a UK import.
Thanks for the good video. I had Hotchkis anti-roll bars installed on the front and rear of my 370z sport 6MT and am very pleased with the results.
Sway bars is such a underrated mod. Did a solid big rear bar for my MK7 GTi what a difference! Just replaced the end links and bar bushings on my daily. No more clunking.
Thanks for this video....I'm new to the Z family, trying to learn much as I can, for weight,tires, and suspension is the golden rule of the game!!
What you proved here is that you need to have the front and rear bars in balance with each other clearly. If the handling balances and there's minimal body roll, the lowest settings on both seem the most sensible!
Good job!
I put Hotchkiss bars and MOOG drop links on my 2003 Track. I have them both on the stiffest settings; I love how it’s flatter when cornering but I suspect it would be too lively if I went to the track. 😳 The Hotchkiss bars have an extra hole in each.
Removing the rear bar is like a puzzle. If you get it angled just right there is no need to remove the exhaust nor brace. 😊
One time i was on track and my rear sway bar link came off and i didnt noticed untill i spun on every corner i thought the weather is not good and the track temperature is some how not good ... But later i found out during some normal inspection that rear sway bar link was not attached .. thats how i know how much difference it made on my car
Glad your back
A long time coming
Thanks Chris. Been mega busy but it’s nice to be back.
I see your car needs to be introduced to Rustoleum "REFORMER" ...YOU WILL
LIKE IT !
Usually replacing worn Sports Car parts makes it handle ,Smartly Again. I mean that factory did a good job....its a Sports Car
Really increasing track times, tires and shocks would have helped more.
Sway bars are like the end of the chain....almost like if all else fails
We have anti sway bars....!
Most modern cars , but this is a SPORTS CAR...have good anti sway bars. I would say if you had just replaced worn components , you would have more money in your pocket for some savings towards adjustable shocks.
But this was and is a good lesson. Great Video !
On last think , lots of enthusiasts by adjustable components ( more money ) set things close to factory
And thats that. Truely unless your car is a track car...so many could save some money well a good chunk of change.... A car like a Z
Has performance in its design .
Its hard to improve over the wide range of conditions the factory engineered into the car.
We all know shocks and tires are most effective ways to improve from the factory/marketing compromises .
Thanks for the tip!
I’ve been looking forward to this, just changed out the fluids on my z yesterday
Good educational video on the sway bar setups for the Z, Great episode. Can't wait to see future updates on a Plenum spacer, cold air intake, and possibly a tune ;).
put the front on softest setting and rear on hardest setting ;) U will hav a very different car ;)
A drift machine!
This is a good point. I had this white line kit on my old Impreza and wasn’t happy with the extra understeer from the front ARB. In the end I took it off - back to standard - and left the rear on. It was perfect.
fascinating on how you will tackle with all the rust! Excellent video !!!
Thanks mate!
Really enjoying the channel, great content but given I like the 350Z and M3 E92's this channel was a great find. Looking forward to more videos and thanks for dedicating the time to making the videos, great content.
Many thanks Pete for taking the time to write such a kind comment.
Your 350z series is so awesome! It has given me so much inspiration for prepping my 350z for the track! I think your next mod should be an exhaust to bring out the wonderful note of the V6! I highly recommend doing a 'back box delete', I found a welder that did it for me for £100 and it makes the car much louder and makes it sound 100 times better, I don't know why but it makes it 'feel' like you're accelerating faster even though it has minimal effect on acceleration. The stock exhaust does absolutely no justice to the V6.
Thanks mate. Will check it out!
Goes to show that the stock sway bars are pretty decent for the Z. But if you are an enthusiast then of course you're going to upgrade. I put Hotchkiss on my Z
I agree the improvement in other areas like shocks ( external adjustable ones) and or tires would have contributed to faster lap times better then Sway bars. Sway bars are almost ...the result of tires and shocks --- then the sway bars come into play at the end like a last ditch effort.. Fix.
I can only imagine, the state of the shocks , knowing the state of the stock sway bar links and mounts.
Indeed. How did you find the Hitchkiss ones?
Good to see you back
He's consistent if nothing else
Great shout out to TIYG! Love that place. My SL is in storage there and need to get up to do a bit of work on it.
I put the same set up, “white line” on my 08 roadster. I noticed the difference, and keep it on the softer setting up front, and middle in the rear. I’m happy with the steering, but need coilovers for the bounce in the car. It gets a little whooshy. Also, at very high speed, I notice the front gets light. Thinking about a front end chin spoiler. Great video.
Yes Neil, fantastic video with great info 👍
Thanks mate
8:12 love that mid-race goatee swipe
Thanks making these Z vids dude.
those standard bars are quite big only really needed drop links and bushes.
Agree the nissan engineers know its baby, is a little chub !
With the exception of the exhaust bolts I've had no problems getting the minimally rusted bolts out of my Boxster 😉 while fitting uprated roll bars.
The stock bars look quite beefy to begin with.. I put a fat rear swaybar on my Celica when I had it, really transformed the handling and made it turn in really nicely. Made it a bit oversteery especially if you were heavy on the brakes around a corner
Great video 👍
I think the front Oem sway bars are fine just the back is weak....work on the weight of the car,exhaust,battery,seats and spare tire .
Always always ALWAYS work on the weight....such cheap improvements...I completely AGREE.
Yes, typically front sway bars are ok but manufactures tend to cheap out in the back sway bar
@@gh-cu1jh its not a cheap out...in the way your thinking.
In their mind , its to still, make the car, understeer....which works for 87 % of "wanabe Performance Drivers "
They figure real drivers will up grade to Real Performance Equipment , all on their own.
Its another reason High Performance cars are so expensive......to keep them out of the hands of "average drivers" that simply can not Drive Competent.
@@MindDezign I never thought of it that way that's interesting and thanks for the info
@@gh-cu1jh your welcome...Ive been driving sports cars for a long time...Ive studied sports cars from every angle.
Great content great straight to point information as always. Love the videos.😀
Ive been waiting to see a video like this.
Thanks mate.
Great vid, thanks! That rust is nuts! Assuming from snow and salt? None of that in Sydney, just sea air! 😭
Oh. Having promoted anti-roll bars for your 350Z so much, I am a little ashamed it did not change your car that much for the better as they did mine. I hope you are not too disappointed.
Maybe when changing more components of the suspension, the ability to adjust the stiffness to cope with excessive under or oversteer will come in handy.
Especially when meeting unexpected weather conditions like heavy rain that adjustable rear sway bar might come in handy.
Do you drive with ESP on or off? Is it possible to see when the ESP is active because its dashboard light is blinking? It would be interesting to see whether the ESP works less with better anti roll bars.
The better my old M3s overall set up got, the less work the ESP had to do.
Yeah, did think they’d make more difference but glad I swapped them anyway. I turn the ESP off when in track as it cuts in too much. Yeah, I think you are right about changing more components.
Great, I will do the same to my roadster
Good move with the anti roll bars buddy.Nice work Guys ! How would this apply to a Quattro 🤔
What is the con of driving with your sway bars on the stiffest settings especially on the road? If there is any.
it's such a shame seeing all of that rust underneath. I know it can't be helped in some areas like the rust belt of the u.s.. I bought a Z in California and it still looks like new underneath. which I know you're going to say shut up and go away but I'm sympathetic...
the lap times aren't improving because you haven't upgraded the rest of the suspension yet.
Some suspension mods may make the car feel "better", while not really increase measured performance. This is such an example. I got stiffer sways for my Subie and I liked the feel, but that didn't necessarily translate into better lap times.
The better the “feel” the more confident one can drive pushing the limits which could possibly result in better lap times
Dang, was really hoping to see it on a setting other than the softest setting.
I am quite surprise with the rust condition of the car judging by the age of the car
Hmmmmmm. My 04 Z has virtually no sway or roll in hard turns
with the stock parts. Your car looks to be in a bit worse shape then mine though.
So, an upgrade of the tired bushings would probably be in order. My bar, bushings and
struts are in excellent like new condition. It is funny because my car has 127K miles on it
and looks like new in comparison. I guess that because
I live in Florida USA I don't have the weather issues you all
have in the UK.
Wait... So stiffer rear arb reduce understeer? 🤔🤔
This thing has a tan colored hand brake??
great video, thanks. Pip
Well, oversteer did work fine 😉😄😉 ,that was funny
Interesting video, I would have thought there would be more difference. Did you have the feeling of losing a bit of traction when accelerating out of a corner with the stiffer rear setting? Because that's something what can happen, but of course depends on how much difference in stiffness there is.
Great video, I like that you also show the difficulties that can happen when doing such work (rusty bolts).
Greetings from Bavaria
Thanks mate. No didn’t have that feeling with the rear but we only had time to test the stiffer rear with stiffer front. Glad to see you liked the “real world” issues with rusty bolts!
Nice to see you back. Do you miss the m3?
Thanks mate. Yeah, I miss the comfort and performance but it cost a lot to run.
Thanks for this ,what is the difference in diameter in the roll bars. because visually there doesn't seem a lot in it.Thanks
On my car, the Whiteline anti-roll bars where not thicker but made from solid steel while the original anti-roll bars where tubes. I assume being massive also made them stiffer.
And heavier.
@@oliverb.7860 Thanks for this
@@oliverb.7860 bars being solid instead of hollow doesn't make a difference. Hollow can be just as sturdy. Usually the key difference is having additional bolt holes where you can bring the mounting point closer to the bar itself - thereby giving it different leverage and better stiffness.
Nice vid again mate. Are you at Japfest this year with the club?
Thanks mate. Would like to but may not get time. We'll see.
Great video. My whiteline kit just arrived this morning so I'm looking forward to fitting it
Sounds like soft front and middle setting in the rear would be ok for daily driving?
go full hard setting on both if the cars only used on the street
Thinking about getting a Z, I do 12000 miles a year though so kinda scared about the running costs (Petrol & if something goes wrong). Nice videos :)
Motorbooks , get a buyers guide. It will tell you all the pit falls thru the years. Money very well spent.
It will make you an expert.
You have youtube to show you how to do anything on your car.
And the internet to buy parts as low as you can buy.....
The only thing to fear , is fear itself.
Life is to short....get one enjoy it get it out of your system. But first
Get a "buyers guide"
It’s a fairly cheap car to buy now but you will need to probably fix a few things (see my other vids!). Only 26 mpg though so expensive in fuel.
So, this is a little off topic, but what are your thoughts on the @007 Z4 Coupe? Looking at one and I am very interested.
2007 Z4? Nice car. Drive one a few years ago and liked it. The fast ones are still more expensive than the Z as far as I remember? Probably has less rust!
Never seen a 350z rust like that ... Looks like it's drives in salt all day
Do you just tap thread into the old snapped stub? Did you try an easy out stub remover first? Just interested as it’s always nice to know a few tips on removing snapped bolts.
The snapped bolt was captive so we tapped into it.
Road and Race oh right. Captive nuts are a pain if they snap as you can’t always get to the back to stop them spinning.
You've probably answered this before, but what ramps are those? They're very flash.
Race Ranps mate 👍🏻
Hello! I’m planning on doing this too and have the exact model and color Z as you! Mine is a bit rusty as well and I’m scared I’ll break the bolts too. How will I go about getting them out of it happens?
Use a lot of penetrating fluid on the bolts first. Then use a ratchet by hand and not an impact gun to gently loosen it. Good luck!
I thought my Alfa was crusty underneath,your Z seems a tad worse
You guys in the UK really need to petition your government to stop salting the roads, it is absolutely destroying your cars, In Ireland our cars are much less rusty and if we see a rusty car 9 times out of 10 it is a UK import.
Lol pointy, yeah fatter front bar goes a long way into making turn in quicker 😅
Nice vid , but omg so much rust 😣
Damn the suspension arms are so corroded they seem closely to snap :/
3 neg front camber , front toe out, 2 neg rear camber , slightly toe In on the rear ... Thank me later .
what was the time without the ARBs? lol
thx
She's crying out for a tasty exhaust ???
Would like to but it’s expensive. We’ll see...
You guys should do videos a little more often, feels like ages between your video posts...