Mark: thanks for an intelligent and well put together video. Really clear. Good to see people who know what they are doing sharing their skills. Appreciated.
How many parts of Shellac to vinegar? The shellac won’t protect it well? How many coats of either finish would I do to get a good sheen and protection? I’m refinishing an old piano of ours, what stain do you recommend, water, gel or oil? I was thinking of gel just want to make sure what your thoughts are? Thank you
Hello, you may not want to fish the piano with shellac if you want more protection and more of a body to your finish. Depending on what color you’re looking for would depend on what stains I would choose but more traditionally I would use an alcohol stain and then seal that with a wash coat of shellac. Thin the shellac one part to 4 parts of alcohol. I would do two coats. I then would use a sanding sealer about two coats and lastly I would finish it with a gloss lacquer maybe about 4 coats and more depending on the depth you’re looking for.
Why would you restore a finish that's in good shape? What is the pad material, and how do you make it, do you have a loom? And what's on the pad? Alcohol, lac. Thinner or more shellac? And why is it not on the surface? Do you dip it in something? Why doesn't it just pull the softened finish and cause it to ripple? How long can you do this? Can you solve the old finish to liquidate it first? What if finish is missing in spots?
Hello, The finish had to be restored because of a prior restoration that the finisher applied a satin lacquer that killed the clarity. The cloth the pad is made form is a cotton cloth and cotton on the inside. I make sure the existing finish s sound before I French polish it. If I’m using shellac the thinner would had been alcohol and if I as using lacquer I would have used lacquer thinner. I would not liquefy the existing finish if it had the wrong type of finish applied to it. I have liquefied finishes or amalgamate them on antiques when needed. I had no spots of finish missing but if I did I would have feathered some finish in those areas to build them up prior to restoring the whole top.
There is no need to restore a finish that is in good shape. I restored the tops of these chests to correct a sheen problem that happened with a prior restorer. The pad is just a cotton cloth and I filled it with a handful of cotton and hand folded it to shape. I was using lacquer and thinner to French polish these pieces. It does not soften or melt the fish on it because the lacquer comes off the pad so thin that is dried in seconds. I dunk the pad in a bucket with thinned lacquer in it and squeeze it almost dry. You won’t get any ripples if you mix it right and have a good hand to work with. You can liquidate and old finish first and let it dry, there are ways to do that depending on the materials you’re using. If you’re missing spots, you can touch them up with color and the material you’re using in between French polishing passes.
If it is shellac and if the finish is sound, you can melt or amalgamate it with a French polishing pad and alcohol or spray alcohol over it but one application or padding at a time with complete drying time between. If the finish is lacquer then use thinner. If the cracks don’t congeal repeat procedure. When cracks congeal start padding finish.
@@Raphael3079 thank you I've sanded down my round Oak table to its bare natural colour wood hard work no chemicals used . I will use a oak shellac on it a few coats hope it turns out as good as your work
Mark: thanks for an intelligent and well put together video. Really clear. Good to see people who know what they are doing sharing their skills. Appreciated.
Thank you John, I really appreciate it. Mark
Thanks Mark.
How many parts of Shellac to vinegar? The shellac won’t protect it well?
How many coats of either finish would I do to get a good sheen and protection?
I’m refinishing an old piano of ours, what stain do you recommend, water, gel or oil? I was thinking of gel just want to make sure what your thoughts are? Thank you
Hello, you may not want to fish the piano with shellac if you want more protection and more of a body to your finish. Depending on what color you’re looking for would depend on what stains I would choose but more traditionally I would use an alcohol stain and then seal that with a wash coat of shellac. Thin the shellac one part to 4 parts of alcohol. I would do two coats. I then would use a sanding sealer about two coats and lastly I would finish it with a gloss lacquer maybe about 4 coats and more depending on the depth you’re looking for.
Why would you restore a finish that's in good shape? What is the pad material, and how do you make it, do you have a loom? And what's on the pad? Alcohol, lac. Thinner or more shellac? And why is it not on the surface? Do you dip it in something? Why doesn't it just pull the softened finish and cause it to ripple? How long can you do this? Can you solve the old finish to liquidate it first? What if finish is missing in spots?
Hello, The finish had to be restored because of a prior restoration that the finisher applied a satin lacquer that killed the clarity. The cloth the pad is made form is a cotton cloth and cotton on the inside. I make sure the existing finish s sound before I French polish it. If I’m using shellac the thinner would had been alcohol and if I as using lacquer I would have used lacquer thinner. I would not liquefy the existing finish if it had the wrong type of finish applied to it. I have liquefied finishes or amalgamate them on antiques when needed. I had no spots of finish missing but if I did I would have feathered some finish in those areas to build them up prior to restoring the whole top.
There is no need to restore a finish that is in good shape. I restored the tops of these chests to correct a sheen problem that happened with a prior restorer. The pad is just a cotton cloth and I filled it with a handful of cotton and hand folded it to shape. I was using lacquer and thinner to French polish these pieces. It does not soften or melt the fish on it because the lacquer comes off the pad so thin that is dried in seconds. I dunk the pad in a bucket with thinned lacquer in it and squeeze it almost dry. You won’t get any ripples if you mix it right and have a good hand to work with. You can liquidate and old finish first and let it dry, there are ways to do that depending on the materials you’re using. If you’re missing spots, you can touch them up with color and the material you’re using in between French polishing passes.
How would you treat a finish that was "cracked or alligatored"?
If it is shellac and if the finish is sound, you can melt or amalgamate it with a French polishing pad and alcohol or spray alcohol over it but one application or padding at a time with complete drying time between. If the finish is lacquer then use thinner. If the cracks don’t congeal repeat procedure. When cracks congeal start padding finish.
Do you only use clear shellac on your furniture 🤔
Hello, no I use both the clear and the amber depending on if I need the amber color or not on what I am wokring on.
@@Raphael3079 thank you I've sanded down my round Oak table to its bare natural colour wood hard work no chemicals used . I will use a oak shellac on it a few coats hope it turns out as good as your work