I'm watching this series of videos for the third time to see the details. The spectacular work, your diatics and generosity are fantastic. I'm sorry for living far away and not speaking English very well because I'm Brazilian. But it would be great if one day you could come here to Brazil to teach a course. I've been building guitars for several years but I always learn something new from your videos. Thank you very much.
Pablo, It's great to see this. I'm getting ready to finish Bruce's guitar now and intend to do it exactly as you teach it here. Thank you my brother for all your kindness.
Pablo , you always present the little nuances that are so important . The slower setting 206 West System hardener is definitely better to use in the application , not only to provide a longer working time , but also to allow the applied resin a longer period of time to ‘flow out’ and level the surface porosity .
Pablo is so humble it becomes even a better job to watch. I'm brazillian and I need to restore a Di Giorgio, Romeo and this seams the perfect way considering the marks I have on the wood. Thank you!
Beautiful work maestro! Just a couple of thoughts: 1. You can 'hot coat' West System epoxy, which means after the first coat is sticky to the touch you can apply a second coat without sanding and so on. So if the goal is to create a three coat base, this can be done easily in one day. Then the last coat is gently sanded in preparation for your final finishes. 2. You can use a larger plastic spreader just like the ones used for auto body filler. This will dramatically reduce the number of lines when the epoxy is cured. 3. There is a product called PeelPly which can be applied to the last coat of wet epoxy. When the epoxy has cured, this material is peeled off and a very smooth finish is the result. You can also simply use thick plastic which is available cheaply at Home Depot. Using this method will result in no lines from the spreader.
Good job. This is one way of filling pores. I prefer paste pore filler or pumice/shellac/alcohol (not sprinkled on the wood!). But I have tried epoxy a few times before and didn't like it. That said, there are many ways to skin a cat. You must find the best way FOR YOU to fill the pores, and also to French polish. What one maker likes, another hates. We are all different. Looking forward to the rest of this series, Maestro. Thank you for sharing your methods.
Hello Pablo, thanks again for sharing your knowledge and craft. I tried some pore-filling materials, but sofar wasn't very happy with the result. I will give your method a try. Can't wait for the rest of the series.
I absolutely love your video's. I have just about finished constructing my workshop so that i may be able to hopefully attempt making guitars myself. Your video's are a mine of information. I only wish I could afford to attend one of your courses. Have you ever thought of putting your knowledge down in a book ? I cant wait for your next video.Cheers
Hi@@redkitekk, I don't want to sound impatient, but how soon is soon? I have been really enjoying your videos, so this prospect sounds very exciting :)
GuitarRasguado I don’t have the answer to that, all I can tell you is that I am working on it at the moment and as soon as it is ready I will announce it so that people can purchase it. Hopefully later this year.
This is very interesting. I restore concertinas and harmoniums and have been French polishing for a number of years. The idea of using epoxy as a grain filler is a relevation - so many thanks for the great tip!!
Your videos are informative, and a joy to watch- I read somewhere in here that you may be doing a video series for sale eventually. Looking forward to this.
You can buy the larger cans of West system and use their pumps that pump out the correct ratio. Also, epoxy doesn't dry, it cures. Epoxy is an exothermic reaction, not an evaporative process. You can also use Cyanoacrylate adhesive (super glue) to do pore filling too. Easier to sand. Apply with a cotton ball and work fast.
Thank you so much for this series’s of videos on French polishing, you have encouraged me to restore me 1978 Yamaha FG512 ii 12 string which has almost exactly the same woods are your guitar is video. Question, do i need to take it all the way back to bare wood?
Maestro I have fair amount of experience with West System epoxy for my various boat projects. The 207 Special Clear Hardener is ideal as a base for clear finishes / varnishes as it is very clear and has UV inhibitors in it. This might be ideal for your application as well.
Thank you you have just made my job easy! I hope i can find the West System fill. I really did not want too use the powder that stewmac has maybe i hope he may have the West System....
Hello Pablo I have a question for you if you can answer it please. My Rosewood and the guitar is ready to be started can I clean the wood with alcohol before I start to put on fiberglass? And the shellac on The Binding. I have looked at probably a dozen different polishers on UA-cam and you are the best. Thank you so much giving us access to this valuable information on polishing. You are number one.
Hi Harry, Thank you for your feedback. You don't need to clean the rosewood with alcohol, if you do you will get stains from the rosewood in the purflings. When you say fibreglass I hope you mean epoxy resin, It isn't the same thing. You can apply the resin strait into the rosewood and it will not stain the white lines. Once you remove the resin and the grain is filled then you have to seal all the white lines first with shellac in a cloth before polishing. I hope it goes well!
Hello Pablo no I'm not using fiberglass I'm using the same dressing I'm using the same as you. I've used that dressing before as a gel coat! I used it on motorcycles and other things a friend of mine is a painter of signs he told me where to go and purchase the right brush. Thank you for getting back to me.
I have been watching your videos which I enjoy very much. One thing I do not understand is, why don´t you use two syringes, one for the resin and another for the hardener. It looks to me to be an easier and better way of doing the job, nevertheless I would be very much interested to know if you have a strong reason for doing the mixer with just one syringe. Best regards and thanks for the videos.
The reason why I only use one syringe is because it isn’t so easy to clean them so I throw them in the bin and it is a way to not to throw away too many of them. It is just my personal preference but if you find it easier to use two syringes that’s fine as well.
Hello Pablo, I’m Steve your videos and explanations are amazing so informative and extremely helpful I have a small question I’m watching the tutorial on French polishing and it’s great but my question is what is the polish you use is it just the shellac with little alcohol or is the a named product you use?
@@redkitekk thank you pablo I am considering taking you up on your training course as I am new to this but it’s a dream of mine to build a classical guitar
Pablo, im about to embark on my 1st French polish on my most recent build (nearly finished) My current build has a 3 piece back, mahogany with a rosewood center, and mahogany sides. Do you recommend using an epoxy filler like this on mahogany back and sides? Or should I just utilize pumice? I also have rosewood binding & rosewood rosette (the rosette has HUGE pores) do you think I should try and fill the pores on the binding and rosette using epoxy?
@@redkitekk thanks Pablo, Will it damage the abalone and purfling in my rosette if the epoxy gets in them? I very much appreciate you making this series. These videos will be my guide as I work through the steps, and I’m a great admirer of your work. Not to take advantage, but any advice on rounding a bevel on my bindings the way you’ve done here? I assume they’re just regular bindings that you’ve sanded to a 45 degree angle?
@Becoming a LuLaBro The abalone and purflings will be fine. To round the bindings I first made a 45 degree angle and then I rounded them using a file and sandpaper. For your next guitar you might want to consider the course I have on www.onlineguitarmakingcourse.com
With some timbers it is necessary as otherwise you will never get the flat surface you need for the polish to shine deep. In the other hand it is a matter of choice, not everyone polish their guitars to a high gloss.
@@redkitekk Thank you very much for taking the time to answer. I really appreciate it. This will be my first attempt at French polishing so i have to watch the rest of your videos. :) God Bless!
Bobby B I hope you find them useful. Also, just in case you are interested I have a complete guitar making course available on www.onlineguitarmakingcourse.com
Thank you, it is a plantilla that I created using dimensions from different guitars to come up with my own shape. Just in case you are interested I have recently launched a guitar making course that you can find on www.onlineguitarmakingcourse.com
Interesting Pablo, I’ve used Pumice but I fancy trying this. I checked out the West System and they have a 207 clear hardener. What’s your thoughts on using it instead of the 206? Look forward to seeing the other videos, they’re always very informative. 😊
Really enjoying this, it's a great start and I'm very much looking forward to the coming episodes. Forgive my ignorance, but if you're mixing 1ml hardener with 6ml resin, wouldn't that give you a 6:1 ratio?
@@yrikk Ah damn man, I'm just retarded...that's all. I somehow overlooked that he still had the hardener in the syringe when he went to draw up the resin. Cheers bro.
Hello Paplo, Thanks for your videos they have been most helpful in my french polishing my mahogany guitar which has turned out beautifully. I am currently french polishing a new guitar I made with rosewood back and sides. However I have hit a snag. I large area (about 10%) of the back remains a flat finish whilst the rest polishes up nicely. It's as if this part of the back has some foreign substance on it and wont take the polish. I have sanded back (by hand) all the polish on the back and repolished but same result. Have you any suggestions please. Peter
Hi Peter, I wonder if you are using oil too early in the process and it has managed to get to the wood. Perhaps you could remove the polish again and give the back a good clean and cut back and then clean the wood with acetone before you polish again, that way you will remove any unwanted oils from the wood that might interfere with the French polish. I hope this helps.
Christian Ricardo Cardoso French polish is very easy to scratch so it isn’t ideal for guitars that are played with a plectrum and using techniques that can be quite aggressive. When classical guitars are played properly the fingernails don’t touch anything apart from the strings so they are ok with a more delicate finish that is also more beneficial for the sound. This is just my opinion by the way.
Maestro, do you know if it is possible to use a epoxy filler like West System 404 to thicken the resin, for the very first application? In case which one?
Hi, I have only used the west system resin without a filler and it works very well for me. Perhaps you can try on an separate piece and try it out, you might find that it works as well.
Yes, you can use it in any type of guitar. Araldite isn’t the best but if that’s all you can get then use it. Make sure you don’t use the fast setting type.
Me gustaria saber como sus abuelos trabajaban sin estos productos modernos. Muchas gracias: tengo un proyecto con una guitarra vieja. Cada hombre respecta alguien que conoce su trabajo. Tambien quiero decir que Ud. habla un ingles excelente.
@@christopherlord3441Cierto, para llenar el poro se usaba gomalaca, aceite y piedra pómez. Si buscas en mi canal, hace tiempo hice un vídeo explicando cómo se hace.
You could do that, but I find that to cut back resin from the heel is quite tedious and I think that filling the grain on the neck and heel using pumice gives very good results.
Mr Pablo I want to filling pores back and sides wenge wood..it has really open pores..this way is suitable or the pores will become green??thanks for sharing these videos!
I don’t think so. Don’t forget that most of the resin applied will be removed to leave just enough to fill the tiny pores in the wood. I have use this method of grain filling many times with great results.
@@redkitekk thanks for the quick answer, I have another question which is not related to French polish but maybe you know the answer, I purchased a used classical guitar the other day and it had a .254mm shim under the saddle, any idea why, I don’t think.254mm is significant enough to really raise the action
Hi Pablo, you are obviously a very skilled craftsmen and have perfected your technique but did cringe when you used the same syringe in hardener and resin, I was always told not to just incase of contamination. Carry on making videos on making your fantastic creations
I had the exact same thought! As long as the syringe body is perfectly clean, I'm guessing there will no contamination, unless you accidently push down on the syringe, instead of pull up. This is obviously not his first rodeo!
For anybody using epoxy resin, please be very careful, in many countries you have to be certified to use this stuff, at the very least wear gloves and work in a very well ventilated place or outside.
Hello, my name is George, I'm from Romania and I follow your tutorials on the internet. Out of love for music and for the Spanish guitar in particular, due to a medical condition in my left hand I could no longer play and that's when I learned to bring it back to life, to repair it a little bit, to set up for the guitars. At this moment I would like some advice regarding the finishing of an Alhambra 4P guitar, namely the back of the guitar had damaged lacquer, it was whitish like milk in a places.I don't have a workshop or a suitable place to paint the guitar, I want to finish it with Shellack. I sanded this back from guitar down to the bare wood, it's a veneer that I damaged in some places when I sanded the surface to make it flat and clean without any traces of old finishes. Until today, I tried repeatedly to finish the back of this Alhambra 4P guitar, but the wood became uneven when I applied Schelack.French Polisch The first time - I sanded the varnish down to the wood -I finished the wood with P320 sandpaper - I sealed the edges with Shellac - -I then applied pumice powder with Shellac 2 times, then I sanded lightly and proceeded to the French polish technique. I had left because the wood was not uniform The second time -sanded to the wood -finished the wood with P320 -applied Aqua Coat 2 layers and lightly sanded with P320 between the two applications -then French Polish and again those uneven spots appeared in the wood. Now I don't know what to do? I saw that you use Epoxy for the back of the guitar and its sides. I would like if you have any advice on how to renovate only the back without damaging the sides of the guitar.
It isn’t unusual to have spots or bits of dust stuck into the polish. You can sand them down with 320 paper on a small sanding cork block until they are gone and then carry on polishing. You don’t need to remove all the polish to start from zero again.
I just subscribed to the channel before I watched the entire video. Then I saw 'grain filling with epoxy' ... sorry - had to unsubscribe immediatelly ....
Pablo is such a charming and humble man and give so generously of his immense knowledge. Brilliant series.
Mr. Requena is exceptionally articulate about his craft....a rare combination to be able to teach as well as expertly perform.
I'm watching this series of videos for the third time to see the details. The spectacular work, your diatics and generosity are fantastic. I'm sorry for living far away and not speaking English very well because I'm Brazilian. But it would be great if one day you could come here to Brazil to teach a course. I've been building guitars for several years but I always learn something new from your videos. Thank you very much.
What a great professor, Pablo. Congrats.
Thanks for publishing all these videos Pablo...they are so useful for we budding luthiers. Clear and inspiring.
Thanks Steve, I am pleased you enjoy them.
Pablo, It's great to see this. I'm getting ready to finish Bruce's guitar now and intend to do it exactly as you teach it here. Thank you my brother for all your kindness.
That’s great Brian. Bruce’s guitar is going to look amazing once it’s done. Best wishes
Pablo , you always present the little nuances that are so important . The slower setting 206 West System hardener is definitely better to use in the application , not only to provide a longer working time , but also to allow the applied resin a longer period of time to ‘flow out’ and level the surface porosity .
Thank you for your patience with the masses. It is easy to follow someone that you feel inside that he is a master. Thank you master Pablo.
Pablo is so humble it becomes even a better job to watch. I'm brazillian and I need to restore a Di Giorgio, Romeo and this seams the perfect way considering the marks I have on the wood. Thank you!
Pablo, thank you so much for sharing your wisdom with us!
It's great you returned, you're always very clear
Simone Camplani. Thanks
Thank you Pablo! Patiently waiting more. Soon I hope.
Yes, next chapter is coming soon
Epoxy grain filling done. Thank you so much for the confidence I gained watching this.
Excellent video, very clear and useful instructions. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.
Grandísimo Maestro ! Muchas Gracias por sus excelentes videos y compartirnos de manera tan detallada, tantos valiosos conocimientos.
Beautiful work maestro! Just a couple of thoughts:
1. You can 'hot coat' West System epoxy, which means after the first coat is sticky to the touch you can apply a second coat without sanding and so on. So if the goal is to create a three coat base, this can be done easily in one day. Then the last coat is gently sanded in preparation for your final finishes.
2. You can use a larger plastic spreader just like the ones used for auto body filler. This will dramatically reduce the number of lines when the epoxy is cured.
3. There is a product called PeelPly which can be applied to the last coat of wet epoxy. When the epoxy has cured, this material is peeled off and a very smooth finish is the result. You can also simply use thick plastic which is available cheaply at Home Depot. Using this method will result in no lines from the spreader.
Thanks for your suggestions.
Good job. This is one way of filling pores. I prefer paste pore filler or pumice/shellac/alcohol (not sprinkled on the wood!). But I have tried epoxy a few times before and didn't like it. That said, there are many ways to skin a cat. You must find the best way FOR YOU to fill the pores, and also to French polish. What one maker likes, another hates. We are all different. Looking forward to the rest of this series, Maestro. Thank you for sharing your methods.
Hello Pablo, thanks again for sharing your knowledge and craft. I tried some pore-filling materials, but sofar wasn't very happy with the result. I will give your method a try. Can't wait for the rest of the series.
Excellent! You know I have a special interest in French polishing, so looking forward to the series!
great video. Thanks for sharing. Apologies if you've answered this elsewhere but what grit do you sand to before using the epoxy? Thanks
320 grit
Great Pablo!
Excellent video and quite informative.
Hello again Pablo just put the first coat on of the resin came out real well thank you so much for sharing your talents with the public.
Pablo Thanks for showing me how too do the job. I just built my first Guitar a Martin 000 28 this will sure make it nice.....
I absolutely love your video's. I have just about finished constructing my workshop so that i may be able to hopefully attempt making guitars myself. Your video's are a mine of information. I only wish I could afford to attend one of your courses. Have you ever thought of putting your knowledge down in a book ? I cant wait for your next video.Cheers
I don't have a book, but I am working on a video series where I show the hole process and I will be available for sale soon.
Hi@@redkitekk, I don't want to sound impatient, but how soon is soon? I have been really enjoying your videos, so this prospect sounds very exciting :)
GuitarRasguado I don’t have the answer to that, all I can tell you is that I am working on it at the moment and as soon as it is ready I will announce it so that people can purchase it. Hopefully later this year.
@@redkitekk Thanks Pablo, looking forward to it!
Brilliant, thank you. I'm not sure I have the courage to try epoxy, but your technique is great.
Hola Pablo, interesante, impaciente de ver tu manera de hacer, un abrazo!
Gracias, un abrazo.
This is very interesting. I restore concertinas and harmoniums and have been French polishing for a number of years. The idea of using epoxy as a grain filler is a relevation - so many thanks for the great tip!!
I've just done the epoxy grain filler and works a treat! Next time I might just put it on the soundboard too! hahaha!
Nice work!
Thank You.
Your videos are informative, and a joy to watch- I read somewhere in here that you may be doing a video series for sale eventually. Looking forward to this.
You can buy the larger cans of West system and use their pumps that pump out the correct ratio. Also, epoxy doesn't dry, it cures. Epoxy is an exothermic reaction, not an evaporative process.
You can also use Cyanoacrylate adhesive (super glue) to do pore filling too. Easier to sand. Apply with a cotton ball and work fast.
Thank you so much for this series’s of videos on French polishing, you have encouraged me to restore me 1978 Yamaha FG512 ii 12 string which has almost exactly the same woods are your guitar is video. Question, do i need to take it all the way back to bare wood?
Thanks!
Maestro I have fair amount of experience with West System epoxy for my various boat projects. The 207 Special Clear Hardener is ideal as a base for clear finishes / varnishes as it is very clear and has UV inhibitors in it. This might be ideal for your application as well.
Brilliant ! Thank you very much...
Gracias Pablo por el tutorial sobre Frensh polish. soy Edwin Aponte de Puerto Rico, me gustó el vídeo y espero por el proximo. Saludos.
I love your channel!!!
Thank you
Great video, I'm becoming your fan! Thanks a lot, Pablo!
Thanks for a great series of videos! Would you say that walnut needs grain filling?
Yes, it would be better if you fill the grain.
Thank you you have just made my job easy! I hope i can find the West System fill. I really did not want too use the powder that stewmac has maybe i hope he may have the West System....
I found every thing! I made my first Guitar a Martin 000 28 this will do it justice. Thanks for the enfo
I enjoy it mucho!
I'm looking for the other 8 videos...
Hello Pablo I have a question for you if you can answer it please. My Rosewood and the guitar is ready to be started can I clean the wood with alcohol before I start to put on fiberglass? And the shellac on The Binding. I have looked at probably a dozen different polishers on UA-cam and you are the best. Thank you so much giving us access to this valuable information on polishing. You are number one.
Hi Harry,
Thank you for your feedback.
You don't need to clean the rosewood with alcohol, if you do you will get stains from the rosewood in the purflings.
When you say fibreglass I hope you mean epoxy resin, It isn't the same thing. You can apply the resin strait into the rosewood and it will not stain the white lines. Once you remove the resin and the grain is filled then you have to seal all the white lines first with shellac in a cloth before polishing.
I hope it goes well!
Hello Pablo no I'm not using fiberglass I'm using the same dressing I'm using the same as you. I've used that dressing before as a gel coat! I used it on motorcycles and other things a friend of mine is a painter of signs he told me where to go and purchase the right brush. Thank you for getting back to me.
I have been watching your videos which I enjoy very much. One thing I do not understand is, why don´t you use two syringes, one for the resin and another for the hardener.
It looks to me to be an easier and better way of doing the job, nevertheless I would be very much interested to know if you have a strong reason for doing the mixer with just one syringe.
Best regards and thanks for the videos.
The reason why I only use one syringe is because it isn’t so easy to clean them so I throw them in the bin and it is a way to not to throw away too many of them. It is just my personal preference but if you find it easier to use two syringes that’s fine as well.
Hello Pablo, I’m Steve your videos and explanations are amazing so informative and extremely helpful I have a small question I’m watching the tutorial on French polishing and it’s great but my question is what is the polish you use is it just the shellac with little alcohol or is the a named product you use?
I use dewaxed blonde shellac mixed with alcohol. You have to mix it yourself. Don’t buy one already mixed as it will not dry properly.
@@redkitekk thank you pablo I am considering taking you up on your training course as I am new to this but it’s a dream of mine to build a classical guitar
@@stephenrimmer5364 that would be great, have a look at the info on www.guitarmakingcourse.org
Pablo, im about to embark on my 1st French polish on my most recent build (nearly finished) My current build has a 3 piece back, mahogany with a rosewood center, and mahogany sides. Do you recommend using an epoxy filler like this on mahogany back and sides? Or should I just utilize pumice? I also have rosewood binding & rosewood rosette (the rosette has HUGE pores) do you think I should try and fill the pores on the binding and rosette using epoxy?
Hi, for mahogany I would use pumice.You can fill the grain on the rosette with resin but be very careful not to get it on the soundboard.
@@redkitekk thanks Pablo, Will it damage the abalone and purfling in my rosette if the epoxy gets in them? I very much appreciate you making this series. These videos will be my guide as I work through the steps, and I’m a great admirer of your work. Not to take advantage, but any advice on rounding a bevel on my bindings the way you’ve done here? I assume they’re just regular bindings that you’ve sanded to a 45 degree angle?
@Becoming a LuLaBro The abalone and purflings will be fine. To round the bindings I first made a 45 degree angle and then I rounded them using a file and sandpaper.
For your next guitar you might want to consider the course I have on www.onlineguitarmakingcourse.com
Why do you have to do the grain filling at all? Thanks for your videos, they are very well done and informative.
With some timbers it is necessary as otherwise you will never get the flat surface you need for the polish to shine deep. In the other hand it is a matter of choice, not everyone polish their guitars to a high gloss.
@@redkitekk Thank you very much for taking the time to answer. I really appreciate it. This will be my first attempt at French polishing so i have to watch the rest of your videos. :) God Bless!
Bobby B I hope you find them useful.
Also, just in case you are interested I have a complete guitar making course available on www.onlineguitarmakingcourse.com
Thank you for these videos!!! That guitar has a beautiful shape! what kind of plantilla did you use? Thanks
Thank you, it is a plantilla that I created using dimensions from different guitars to come up with my own shape.
Just in case you are interested I have recently launched a guitar making course that you can find on www.onlineguitarmakingcourse.com
@@redkitekk I will join your online course! Thanks to your videos I made my first rosette!!!
How long have you been using Epoxy for grain filling?
Pablo, thanks for this series, its excellent. Do you seal the raw wood with Shellac first or do you apply the Epoxy directly to the raw wood.
Hi Paul, I apply it directly to the wood, but only to the back and sides if they are made of rosewood or another open grain wood.
Interesting Pablo, I’ve used Pumice but I fancy trying this. I checked out the West System and they have a 207 clear hardener. What’s your thoughts on using it instead of the 206? Look forward to seeing the other videos, they’re always very informative. 😊
Really enjoying this, it's a great start and I'm very much looking forward to the coming episodes. Forgive my ignorance, but if you're mixing 1ml hardener with 6ml resin, wouldn't that give you a 6:1 ratio?
no, 6ml is 1ml of hardener + 5 ml of epoxy, so ratio is still 5:1
@@yrikk Ah damn man, I'm just retarded...that's all. I somehow overlooked that he still had the hardener in the syringe when he went to draw up the resin. Cheers bro.
Hello Paplo,
Thanks for your videos they have been most helpful in my french polishing my mahogany guitar which has turned out beautifully. I am currently french polishing a new guitar I made with rosewood back and sides. However I have hit a snag. I large area (about 10%) of the back remains a flat finish whilst the rest polishes up nicely. It's as if this part of the back has some foreign substance on it and wont take the polish. I have sanded back (by hand) all the polish on the back and repolished but same result. Have you any suggestions please. Peter
Hi Peter, I wonder if you are using oil too early in the process and it has managed to get to the wood. Perhaps you could remove the polish again and give the back a good clean and cut back and then clean the wood with acetone before you polish again, that way you will remove any unwanted oils from the wood that might interfere with the French polish. I hope this helps.
K recuerdos Pablo! Buen video, saludos!
Jesus Mora, un abrazo!!
Does the epoxy counter act the benefit of the French polish on tone by soaking into the wood
I don’t think so. Epoxy doesn’t soak in and once applied you have to remove most of it leaving just the resin in the pores.
Isn't shellac a grain filler itself? I saw shellac solution marketed as "sanding sealer", is that the same thing as grain filler? Thanks!
Shellac is not a grain filler. There might be shellac based grain fillers but I don’t know about sanding sealer, I am not familiar with this product.
Hi Pablo, so if one wants to stay with all natural material French polishing using shellac , what do you recommend for sealer instead of epoxy?
I would do it in the traditional way using pumice powder. Have a look at this video
ua-cam.com/video/uMPFGzoC7iY/v-deo.html
Congrats for the videos! Is french polish recommended only for classical guitar? If yes, why the reason?
Christian Ricardo Cardoso French polish is very easy to scratch so it isn’t ideal for guitars that are played with a plectrum and using techniques that can be quite aggressive. When classical guitars are played properly the fingernails don’t touch anything apart from the strings so they are ok with a more delicate finish that is also more beneficial for the sound. This is just my opinion by the way.
@@redkitekk really appreciatte!
Maestro, do you know if it is possible to use a epoxy filler like West System 404 to thicken the resin, for the very first application? In case which one?
Hi, I have only used the west system resin without a filler and it works very well for me. Perhaps you can try on an separate piece and try it out, you might find that it works as well.
Can we use Epoxy on Acoustic guitar also? Here Araldite is available , it is also useable?
Yes, you can use it in any type of guitar. Araldite isn’t the best but if that’s all you can get then use it. Make sure you don’t use the fast setting type.
Ole!
Me gustaria saber como sus abuelos trabajaban sin estos productos modernos. Muchas gracias: tengo un proyecto con una guitarra vieja. Cada hombre respecta alguien que conoce su trabajo. Tambien quiero decir que Ud. habla un ingles excelente.
La gomalaca ya se usaba en el siglo XIII
@@redkitekk Si claro pero no las resinas de preparacion.
@@christopherlord3441Cierto, para llenar el poro se usaba gomalaca, aceite y piedra pómez. Si buscas en mi canal, hace tiempo hice un vídeo explicando cómo se hace.
@@redkitekk Gracias.
A quick question Pablo, if the resin is clear why not use it on the heel to stabilise the wood of the neck?
You could do that, but I find that to cut back resin from the heel is quite tedious and I think that filling the grain on the neck and heel using pumice gives very good results.
@@redkitekk Thank you for the advice Pablo.
Mr Pablo I want to filling pores back and sides wenge wood..it has really open pores..this way is suitable or the pores will become green??thanks for sharing these videos!
Γρηγορης Μαυρακης yes, west system will work well with wenge.
Has this epoxy layer any impact on sound ?
I don’t think so. Don’t forget that most of the resin applied will be removed to leave just enough to fill the tiny pores in the wood.
I have use this method of grain filling many times with great results.
What’s the best way and product to strip a lacquered guitar ?
If it is shellac you use alcohol. If it is nitrocellulose or polyurethane you need a strong paint stripper.
Thank you for your quick answer@@redkitekk
@@redkitekk thanks for the quick answer, I have another question which is not related to French polish but maybe you know the answer, I purchased a used classical guitar the other day and it had a .254mm shim under the saddle, any idea why, I don’t think.254mm is significant enough to really raise the action
Hi Pablo, you are obviously a very skilled craftsmen and have perfected your technique but did cringe when you used the same syringe in hardener and resin, I was always told not to just incase of contamination. Carry on making videos on making your fantastic creations
I had the exact same thought! As long as the syringe body is perfectly clean, I'm guessing there will no contamination, unless you accidently push down on the syringe, instead of pull up. This is obviously not his first rodeo!
Hay una guitarrista clasica de nombre REQUENA és familiar suya. Gracias
Se a quien te refieres, muy buena guitarrista, pero no, no es familia mia.
Very nice, thanks for detailed explanations! Except for saying 1000 times “soy” 😆
For anybody using epoxy resin, please be very careful, in many countries you have to be certified to use this stuff, at the very least wear gloves and work in a very well ventilated place or outside.
Hello, my name is George, I'm from Romania and I follow your tutorials on the internet. Out of love for music and for the Spanish guitar in particular, due to a medical condition in my left hand I could no longer play and that's when I learned to bring it back to life, to repair it a little bit, to set up for the guitars.
At this moment I would like some advice regarding the finishing of an Alhambra 4P guitar, namely the back of the guitar had damaged lacquer, it was whitish like milk in a places.I don't have a workshop or a suitable place to paint the guitar, I want to finish it with Shellack.
I sanded this back from guitar down to the bare wood, it's a veneer that I damaged in some places when I sanded the surface to make it flat and clean without any traces of old finishes.
Until today, I tried repeatedly to finish the back of this Alhambra 4P guitar, but the wood became uneven when I applied Schelack.French Polisch
The first time
- I sanded the varnish down to the wood
-I finished the wood with P320 sandpaper
- I sealed the edges with Shellac -
-I then applied pumice powder with Shellac 2 times, then I sanded lightly and proceeded to the French polish technique. I had left because the wood was not uniform
The second time -sanded to the wood -finished the wood with P320
-applied Aqua Coat 2 layers and lightly sanded with P320 between the two applications
-then French Polish and again those uneven spots appeared in the wood.
Now I don't know what to do? I saw that you use Epoxy for the back of the guitar and its sides.
I would like if you have any advice on how to renovate only the back without damaging the sides of the guitar.
It isn’t unusual to have spots or bits of dust stuck into the polish. You can sand them down with 320 paper on a small sanding cork block until they are gone and then carry on polishing. You don’t need to remove all the polish to start from zero again.
I can only find 6 of the 9 where are the rest Pablo??
Khasab the rest I will be uploading in the next few weeks
@@redkitekk oh ok thanks
I want to apprentice in your shop. Ill work my ass off for next to nothing.
Hope you use an activated charcoal face mask normally when using epoxy. Also gassing off is not in your workshop.
Pablo, have you ever used glaire (egg whites) to fill the pores?
Jason Brown yes I have used it on spruce but I didn’t think it made a lot of difference. You need to try for yourself and see if it works for you.
meh...you just made that wood guitar a plastic one...
You start by coating your guitar in plastic? Boo, hiss.
si hablas español porque no haces los tutoriales wn español
Porque vive en UK y la mayoria de las personas que ven sus videos son de habla inglesa :-)
I just subscribed to the channel before I watched the entire video. Then I saw 'grain filling with epoxy' ... sorry - had to unsubscribe immediatelly ....