I noticed that your recommendation is different than what I've seen before. Usually instructors recommend that when one whips away from the molten pool, the rod is sunken into bevel (arc length reduced drastically) known as "choking" in order to release excess heat and then return with the regular arc length over the solidifying molten pool to stitch the weld together. I see that you recommend the opposite: where one should increase the arc length slightly during the whip away and return with a shorter arc length to facilitate penetration. This might be the difference that I am looking for. I have no consistency with 6010. I get it sometimes and the others I make a complete mess where my rod sticks and I get no penetration. Thanks for the advice sir.
I use the method you mention for just beads on a plate or when the joint is more solid. With a gap, i'm trying to really get the puddle down in the joint.
Nice vid thank you. I have a question about extension cords. Do you think that thinner extension cords gives lower amps than the settings? I live outside the US and it’s a take what you can get. I’m a new welder but definitely find 6010 vs 6013 a more reassuring penetration
Absolutely. If you run small, or very long cords the voltage will drop. Ohms law states that they are all connected variables and it will effect amps as well.
That's a great question. Here in the U.S. most believe that you have to/or should run an open root with E6010. Several codes here require E6010 from root to cap, and some require E6010 root and fill the joint out with E7018. But most of the world will actually run their welds with E7018 or a similar Low Hydrogen rod. The E7018 open root is very doable, but it is very challenging, so practice around with your root opening, bevel angle, root face, and amperage.
Ok thanks i did a trade test with a 1/8 steel plate butt joint square bevel overhead an it's a 1/4" gap wide not 1/8 they give me a 7018 rod 3/32 i used 80 amps an it an it haven't came out well.
1/4" Gap overhead, seems like a sick joke. I'm sure it's possible, but if you have never practiced and prepped up to that size gap, seems like a hard pass.
Oh I believe you. I think it's possible as well. But it all depends on the rod size as well and amps. If you set the 3/32 lower more like 60 you could try running a strip on each side, and then try to bridge the gap with a 3rd pass in the middle.
Thanks for this. We just started learning this today and the video and instructions in the book have no help at all.
Glad it was helpful!
I noticed that your recommendation is different than what I've seen before. Usually instructors recommend that when one whips away from the molten pool, the rod is sunken into bevel (arc length reduced drastically) known as "choking" in order to release excess heat and then return with the regular arc length over the solidifying molten pool to stitch the weld together. I see that you recommend the opposite: where one should increase the arc length slightly during the whip away and return with a shorter arc length to facilitate penetration. This might be the difference that I am looking for. I have no consistency with 6010. I get it sometimes and the others I make a complete mess where my rod sticks and I get no penetration. Thanks for the advice sir.
I use the method you mention for just beads on a plate or when the joint is more solid. With a gap, i'm trying to really get the puddle down in the joint.
@@mmhswelding will definitely give it a go. Thanks man
Nice vid thank you. I have a question about extension cords. Do you think that thinner extension cords gives lower amps than the settings? I live outside the US and it’s a take what you can get. I’m a new welder but definitely find 6010 vs 6013 a more reassuring penetration
Absolutely. If you run small, or very long cords the voltage will drop. Ohms law states that they are all connected variables and it will effect amps as well.
Can you run a 7018 on that ???
That's a great question. Here in the U.S. most believe that you have to/or should run an open root with E6010. Several codes here require E6010 from root to cap, and some require E6010 root and fill the joint out with E7018. But most of the world will actually run their welds with E7018 or a similar Low Hydrogen rod. The E7018 open root is very doable, but it is very challenging, so practice around with your root opening, bevel angle, root face, and amperage.
Ok thanks i did a trade test with a 1/8 steel plate butt joint square bevel overhead an it's a 1/4" gap wide not 1/8 they give me a 7018 rod 3/32 i used 80 amps an it an it haven't came out well.
1/4" Gap overhead, seems like a sick joke. I'm sure it's possible, but if you have never practiced and prepped up to that size gap, seems like a hard pass.
This is not a joke if i had a picture i would have show you it but i didn't had my phone on me that time.
Oh I believe you. I think it's possible as well. But it all depends on the rod size as well and amps. If you set the 3/32 lower more like 60 you could try running a strip on each side, and then try to bridge the gap with a 3rd pass in the middle.