Thanks for the video-- Armed with this info, I did a 20-minute "quick and dirty" smooth-out of my frets. Never did this before but figured I'd give it a shot since the side of my index finger was getting cut up by the edges! Did NOT remove the strings. My issue was with the treble-side edges, so I just did those: Taped off the treble side of the neck with blue painter's tape, all the way up to where the binding meets the frets. Took a small hobby file and filed each fret edge as you indicated, giving each one clearance by pulling the high-E string out of the way. Then I folded up a piece of 320 grit sandpaper into a little pad and fine-sanded each edge, then finished with 400 grit sandpaper. Huge difference, and just 20 minutes invested. Contrary to some of the comments here, I didn't worry about the pickup: I have a closed pickup and the only slightly magnetic parts are the 6 screws.. I don't even think any filings got on them, but I just wiped them down to make sure (I don't see what problem it would cause anyway).. One afterthought is that my guitar is originally from FL, now in AZ 2 years or so.. fretboard may be shrinking due to dryness...Now that I've done this, maybe keeping board oiled may slow down future shrinkage?
@@robertahli3738 metal shavings can get inside the pickup and eventually destroy it if you are not careful. So much better to just cover with masking tape. Especially if uncovered humbuckers for example.
Also recommend taping off the pickups on most instruments like a fender or gibson where they covered but small metal shaving can get into them and cause failure of the pickup. If you have sealed pickups like most emg pickups for bass and guitar.. cheers for the content and from Northern California.
It's not OCD, it's very reasonable indeed! :) I do the same thing whenever I get close to the body with the file. I recommend taping the pickups every time there's metal dust flying around in the near. //cheers, Kris
This is a great video on the topic of fixing rough fret ends...clearly explained, wonderfully illustrated and presented in a way that is positive. Great resource for anyone that ever hesitated making small adjustments to their personal guitar; and if you own multiple guitars, this can literally save you tons of cash and time (since you won’t have to take your guitar to the luthier). Thank you!!😁
Very neatly explained... I have never filed my guitar frets. Bought a Harley Benton 12 string. It plays nice, looks good but has sharp frets. Why dont they smoothen it before selling? Anyways, liked your video. Thanks from Pune, Bharat (India)
Great stuff. I’ve been filing my own fret end for probably 10 years. The one thing that always bothers me is how many times I have to go back and “re-round” (repeat the process) because I either didn’t do it enough or I created new sharp edges. In other words, when I feel the frets as I go, they feel good to great, but when I’m done and run my hands the length of the neck, they still feel “rough”. I’ve got a practice neck that I bought off Alibaba for cheap, so I’m trying some new things like buffing with fret erasers. Anyhow, thanks for the video.
Great info Kris. I just did my new Sterling Stingray SS-4 Bass, and it now-feels . . . just-as -good as my Suhr Strat & Taylor Acoustic. I also like to "gently" go-over the Fret Ends with an extra fine mesh pad ( after filing ) - really puts the Finishing-touch.
It took me one attempt with ordinary needle files to come to the conclusion that a purpose made fret dressing file was worth the money. It can absolutely be done with hardware store files, just very VERY slowly and carefully. You can also grind down said cheap files to create a safe edge but I didn't have very good success with that; it's hard to get the right bevel angle on the file edge for it to avoid scratching the fingerboard but also still make contact with the base of the fret.
I want to warn people how easy it is to overpolish these fret ends. Polish them, but try to save the fret top! You don't want to get into the situation where you've overpolished them and now you're running the string off the fret end! Don't use all these grits that much, and don't hit the fret ends over a 45 degree angle. A simple 6.000-8.000-12.000 will do just fine!
I was going to make a smartarse comment about the appropriateness of Thomann, father of Harley Benton, instructing on how to fix sharp fret ends. Then I remembered that only one of my six Harley Benton guitars needed this procedure, t'others were good in that respect. Maybe my (almost) kneejerk reaction illustrates the power of a single negative experience vs several positive experiences.
Haha! I appreciate your honesty. Regarding sharp frets: my Fender Custom Shop Tele arrived 5 years ago and guess what I had to do as soon as winter (= dry air) arrived... Guitars are produced so fast today, that wood doesn't have the time to dry naturally for years before they make an instrument out of it. I guess that's the reason why sharp fret ends are so "normal" nowadays. The guitars don't ship that way, it happens while shipping or in storage. Good news is, once you corrected it, it doesn't come back. :) Cheers //Kris
Really enjoy the angle and format of your content, this episode is just what I need to fix a slight fret sprout on a Charvel DK24 that got me the guitar brand new for less than half the regular price... :D Btw, Nergal called, he wants his haircut back. ^^
Thanks a lot Christian! Much appreciated and good luck with your Charvel. Maybe it was Nergal himself who cut my hair in his barber shop in Poland. Haha. Who knows... //cheers buddy, Kris
I sent my guitar for repair of a backbowed neck where the single action truss rod was completely loose. The shop had it for a week, but claimed they couldn't repair it, but waited the 6th day to inform me they only filed some frets down and it still buzzes. Should I pay them for a job they didn't completely fix?
To my opinion, the simplest way to get rid of that fret sprout is just to give the fretboard the necessary moisture. I bought a Fender J Mascis Tele a couple of days ago, it's a very nice guitar, but it had a substantial fret sprout. May be it was stored not properly somewhere with extremely low humidity. I've ordered the bevelling file and the fret file online to fix that, but meanwhile I oiled the fretboard and the back side of the neck with Dunlop Lemon Oil twice (once a day). After two days there is no fret sprout at all. I'll keep the ordered files (they're still in transit) for future projects. So personally I would rather first try my luck with humidifying the fretboard before filing or sawing something.
Hey , Kris! how should I deal with the protruding fret legs under the finish? Fender maple neck. The legs of the frets are annoying, which fender does not cut at the factory. Tnx!
If you're filing the fret ends just make sure that the fret end file is a bit taller than the fret (all of them will be btw). If you want to get one that's also a crowning file, like the one I used in the video, then check the manufacturer's page for the right gauge / size that works for your frets. Cheers! //Kris
I use a 1 inch wide file with fine teeth, a few light strokes at 90 Degrees, then a small vibrator sander with 400 grit emory cloth. 2 - 3 minutes and frets are filed and sanded, smooth as glass and polished. Of course you dont do it on high end guitars.
I cant beluve this every time i need to leard guitar tips your vedio comes on i shoukd just subscribe because im alway learn how to on a guitar i also need to learn some tunes ...RocknRollFlat5
Haha, do it! 😆 You'll find our well over 110 Guitar Tech Tips episodes if you do. We have a playlist with these videos, check it out in case you need infos on anything techy. Cheers man //Kris
Thanks for the great guide. Just wonder why you should bother masking the body? If you already have to remove the strings why not just completely remove the neck?
If it's a bolt-on neck, you can remove it, sure. It's much faster to just mask the body around the neck pocket though and that also works on guitars with a set neck. Cheers //Kris
Hey Frankyboy, its a good file! :) The curved side is not for the fret edges. That’s for crowning the frets (crowning is when you make the frets round after leveling them). //cheers man, Kris
@@fraenkiboii It's pretty sad when the tool presentation by the shop ends up with using it wrong because the guy has no clue how to use it. You know, everyone calls himself "guitar tech" or even "luthier" these days and creates bad YT content if that didn't go too well. You are right, how could you possibly use the short concave side of the file for crowning, or even have the idea of doing so like obviously Thomann. You usually do most of the fret end dressing with the (actual) crowning file, while you have it in your hand anyway because you had to crown the frets after leveling. The Hosco fret end file is a special tool you use on e.g. new instruments for the ends only. Then the concave side comes in handy to avoid the awkward wrist twisting the guy did in the video to follow the fret profle - the idea is that you round off the beveled ends with the concave side, doing the job of following the fret profile without much twisting the straight side of the file and guessing if you hit the curvature of the fret end right. The straight sides are mostly for reaching the "corners" (where the profile bottom meets the fretboard) to round those off (because crowning files can't reach those), or for preparing a perfect "hot dog" style fret end.
The width of the groove for the fret crown. One is for small frets, there's one for medium and one for jumbo frets. You should get the right size for your instrument. 👍 Thanks! //Kris
Nope, even when using a Plek this step is done by hand of our master luthiers at Thomann. The Plek Levels the frets and the nut but doesn’t do the final steps. For that you need the fine hands of experienced craftsmen. //cheers, Kris
So not true about the Gibsons! I bought a standard Les Paul a few years back and that binding was over very sharp Fret ends! It tore up my fingers! I complained of course but it was not worth the hassle! Thanks for the great video though!!
Of course I had to do this my way. Then realised it might be junky, went back to this video and did it correctly on the other side Your way looks better but mine is basically introduction to fretboard rolling. Guess now I'll roll both sides. Luckily it's just an ukulele
I want this to be a QC thing - whenever I go guitar shopping I don't even take guitars off the wall, I just slide across the fretboard sides and see if there are any sharp edges - if there are, I'm not interested.
Guitars barely ever leave the factory with sharp fret edges. Necks dry and wood shrinks during transport and in warehouses whilst waiting for someone to buy that guitar. If every brand did a double QC (one in the factory and one right before buying the guitar) we would all pay way more money for them. Now, most people would get really angry if that happened. Good news is: if you buy your guitars at a good retailer ;) you'll have 3 years of warranty and those sharp fret edges will get fixed without problems. //cheers, Kris
@@ThomannsGuitarsBasses while I understand that this would increase prices, I have seen this issues with models made in the same year, and it's a common problem with guitars up to 1000 eur as well. I was really impressed by the Ibanez premium fret treatment when they first started the line - this is how fret ends should be rounded by the factory! With some other models it feels like they just cut off the fret ends and go over it with a sanding block once and call it a day. This is okay if you have a distributer who checks these instruments first (Meinl usually does a good job), but some lemons always end up in stores.
@@ayeapprove I bought a file and watched this video because I have a $500 ish Ibanez that I can't slide through my hands into it's stand without screaming in blood curdling agony. Made in Indonesia. A few years old. I would like to play a top end Ibanez and A-B it with mine.
Put an order on the same file in the video today after I almost cut my fingers off while playing my Strandberg. It has the worst fret job out of all my guitars. It's crazy how an instrument that cost €2500 has such bad frets.
May I ask you what Strandberg model had that issue? I have a Boden Original 6 out of 2020 and it has perfect frets. Now I bought a Boden Standard NX 6 and the fret ends are a little sharp. I’m wondering if the fret job on the NX models dropped in quality…
Great video. I have to file my fret ends down but have cheap files. Where did you get that one from. What is the brand name of the one your using? Thanks
Looks like that the orange Hosco file is for medium frets and the blue version should be used for jumbo frets. I suppose the orange file should be used for medium jumbo?
Again I'll leave that to the Pros. If'n I take a file to my frets a Refret will probably in order. and for very little cash a good shop can smooth out all the fiddily bits with out tool slips. Stay Safe Ery body
And that's totally cool, guitar techs need work too. :) This video is for those who would do these things themselves anyhow. You wouldn't believe how many Thomann customers don't know when to get which tool and how to use them. //cheers, Kris
Knowledge is power! I know there are folks out there who with just a bit of help and guidance could totally save time and money doing it themselves and enjoy the “work” process. 🤘🏽
@@MrManWest, I'm not skilled at any of this stuff, but I'm willing to attempt to learn with care and patience. Every time I read about someone taking their guitar "in" for a restring, I have to give my head a wobble.
I work in a hospital emergency room and play guitar for a hobby. I have seen some of the horrific injuries done by sharp fret ends. Let me tell you, it's not for the squeamish. I still have nightmares. Oh, the humanity.
Bought a brand new guitar. As soon as I unpacked it, I ran my finger along the edge of the fretboard testing for sharpness. Immediately sliced my skin open. Why are they allowed to ship like this. :(
In shops where people are working with wood stock, the humidity is locked into place with huge industrial humidifiers. When they install the frets, your neck is physically larger than when you receive it. When you get it, it's been dried out in the mail and your home is under 50% humidity. I'm in Chicago, even with radiators my home drops below 25% humidity in the winter. That's an enormous difference from 49-55%
Same thing just happened to mean bought i guitar yesterday can barely play it because it's eating my fingers up...very disappointed cause it sounds so good
I’m having sharp fret edges on an EVH Wolfgang Special guitar that cost me $2000 Cdn, I shouldn’t have these problems with a “supposed reputable company” like Peavey and EVH Guitars. I guess the luthier wasn’t really a luthier at all. 😏
Wood is wood, even if it’s perfect out of the factory, the guitar can still be exposed to cold, heat, excess humidity or lack thereof, different pressures etc that will absolutely affect the fretboard. It’s best to always get your guitars set up right after you buy them, even the most expensive ones are susceptible to physical damage and wood shrinkage from even only a few hours in non-ideal environments.
Just buy the proper tools for fretwork. I've literally tried everything non specialized on a practice neck from an old junk guitar. I can level pretty well with a good 16" level with sticky sandpaper but everything else is a no go. I thought that between my woodworking and finishing skill, having patience, and an extensive workshop full of tools that I could figure something out to "save money" fixing sharp fret ends. Just buy the proper stuff for fretwork. You'll waste a ton of time and masking tape and still end up ordering crowning and dressing files.
Exactly! There are many things you can fix on a guitar with improvised / self customised tools but this is not one of them. Haha! Fret end files and crowning files are the only good tools for fret work. Good thing is, you have to buy it once and can use it on dozens and dozens of guitars so it's not a bad investment. Cheers //Kris
It's a lot more between them (ALL the hardware and electronic parts are of much higher quality on expensive guitars) but yeah, this is the one detail that makes the most obvious difference between the playing feel. Cheers //Kris
A bit embarrassing. The file has a groove so you can file the fret ends without damaging the fingerboard. That is the idea behind it. On the video, the gentleman uses the other side. Does not really make sense, sorry.
Hi, that groove is for the fret crown, not specifically for the fret ends. You can use it for that too if you want to but the flat file side (the one I used) is the one especially made for the ends. As explained in the video. Cheers //Kris
Metal shavings on a pickup: Use modeling clay (Play-Doh) to remove them. It works great!
The problem is that shavings get inside the pickup. Cover them before starting. Always.
@@LanceJordan Agree 100% - why Risk creating a problem, when you can prepare-in-advance to: avoid the Problem.
There's something very soothing about the sound of the file rounding the fret edges.
I've been playing forever and am terrible when it comes to maintenance. I love this series. Great job Kris and Thomann!
Thanks for the video-- Armed with this info, I did a 20-minute "quick and dirty" smooth-out of my frets. Never did this before but figured I'd give it a shot since the side of my index finger was getting cut up by the edges! Did NOT remove the strings. My issue was with the treble-side edges, so I just did those: Taped off the treble side of the neck with blue painter's tape, all the way up to where the binding meets the frets. Took a small hobby file and filed each fret edge as you indicated, giving each one clearance by pulling the high-E string out of the way. Then I folded up a piece of 320 grit sandpaper into a little pad and fine-sanded each edge, then finished with 400 grit sandpaper. Huge difference, and just 20 minutes invested. Contrary to some of the comments here, I didn't worry about the pickup: I have a closed pickup and the only slightly magnetic parts are the 6 screws.. I don't even think any filings got on them, but I just wiped them down to make sure (I don't see what problem it would cause anyway).. One afterthought is that my guitar is originally from FL, now in AZ 2 years or so.. fretboard may be shrinking due to dryness...Now that I've done this, maybe keeping board oiled may slow down future shrinkage?
That muted rasp sound at 4:50 was sick
Always put tape over pickups BEFORE STARTING. Or remove the neck. Metal shavings will ruin pickups down the road if you don't.
Well evh did not (atleast for the dummy pickup)
You just can clean the pu with brush or napkin
@@robertahli3738 metal shavings can get inside the pickup and eventually destroy it if you are not careful. So much better to just cover with masking tape. Especially if uncovered humbuckers for example.
Just remove the neck. It will also make it so much easier to round and shape the last frets.
Dang magnets lol
Also recommend taping off the pickups on most instruments like a fender or gibson where they covered but small metal shaving can get into them and cause failure of the pickup. If you have sealed pickups like most emg pickups for bass and guitar.. cheers for the content and from Northern California.
I tape the pickups. I hate just the idea of metallic dust being collected there. Yes, OCD.
It's not OCD, it's very reasonable indeed! :) I do the same thing whenever I get close to the body with the file.
I recommend taping the pickups every time there's metal dust flying around in the near.
//cheers, Kris
It's really important.
This is a great video on the topic of fixing rough fret ends...clearly explained, wonderfully illustrated and presented in a way that is positive. Great resource for anyone that ever hesitated making small adjustments to their personal guitar; and if you own multiple guitars, this can literally save you tons of cash and time (since you won’t have to take your guitar to the luthier). Thank you!!😁
It's a pity they don't do this to their guitars before shipping them.
the only good video actually rolling the edges 😍
thank you thomann and kris
Very neatly explained...
I have never filed my guitar frets.
Bought a Harley Benton 12 string.
It plays nice, looks good but has sharp frets. Why dont they smoothen it before selling?
Anyways, liked your video.
Thanks from Pune, Bharat (India)
The best guitar gear channel out there ( in my opinion)
Great stuff. I’ve been filing my own fret end for probably 10 years. The one thing that always bothers me is how many times I have to go back and “re-round” (repeat the process) because I either didn’t do it enough or I created new sharp edges. In other words, when I feel the frets as I go, they feel good to great, but when I’m done and run my hands the length of the neck, they still feel “rough”. I’ve got a practice neck that I bought off Alibaba for cheap, so I’m trying some new things like buffing with fret erasers. Anyhow, thanks for the video.
I have the same problem with the fret ends, sometimes it feels like I'm sharpening them even when I bend inwards.
Great info Kris. I just did my new Sterling Stingray SS-4 Bass, and it now-feels . . . just-as -good as my Suhr Strat & Taylor Acoustic. I also like to "gently" go-over the Fret Ends with an extra fine mesh pad ( after filing ) - really puts the Finishing-touch.
It’s a great 👍 bass “ Sterling
Oooooh a gibson special 🎸🔧🪒👈
I prefer to stay with harley benton 🌞🤟
It took me one attempt with ordinary needle files to come to the conclusion that a purpose made fret dressing file was worth the money. It can absolutely be done with hardware store files, just very VERY slowly and carefully. You can also grind down said cheap files to create a safe edge but I didn't have very good success with that; it's hard to get the right bevel angle on the file edge for it to avoid scratching the fingerboard but also still make contact with the base of the fret.
I had to do this to my Custom Shop bass. I practiced on a $99 Epiphone first. A good skill to learn.
I want to warn people how easy it is to overpolish these fret ends. Polish them, but try to save the fret top! You don't want to get into the situation where you've overpolished them and now you're running the string off the fret end! Don't use all these grits that much, and don't hit the fret ends over a 45 degree angle. A simple 6.000-8.000-12.000 will do just fine!
Thank you for this video. You are a genius.
I’m going start learning this weekend how to dress frets. Great video.
Very helpful. I bought a EOB strat and although is a good guitar it came with fret and neck issues.
thanks for this video a great help in a guitar I just bought online. lets just say I nicknamed it Buzz Short for Buzzsaw.
Chris, need to know your THR settings at 4:40. Love that chunky Strat tone! Great video!
I was going to make a smartarse comment about the appropriateness of Thomann, father of Harley Benton, instructing on how to fix sharp fret ends. Then I remembered that only one of my six Harley Benton guitars needed this procedure, t'others were good in that respect. Maybe my (almost) kneejerk reaction illustrates the power of a single negative experience vs several positive experiences.
Haha! I appreciate your honesty. Regarding sharp frets: my Fender Custom Shop Tele arrived 5 years ago and guess what I had to do as soon as winter (= dry air) arrived... Guitars are produced so fast today, that wood doesn't have the time to dry naturally for years before they make an instrument out of it. I guess that's the reason why sharp fret ends are so "normal" nowadays. The guitars don't ship that way, it happens while shipping or in storage. Good news is, once you corrected it, it doesn't come back. :)
Cheers //Kris
Really enjoy the angle and format of your content, this episode is just what I need to fix a slight fret sprout on a Charvel DK24 that got me the guitar brand new for less than half the regular price... :D
Btw, Nergal called, he wants his haircut back. ^^
Thanks a lot Christian! Much appreciated and good luck with your Charvel.
Maybe it was Nergal himself who cut my hair in his barber shop in Poland. Haha. Who knows...
//cheers buddy, Kris
my bass was having this problem, thanks!
great video. seems like the past 2 winters made the frets stick out in my guitars. cant wait to do this
Good advices, again.
Thanks a lot, we give our best! :)
//cheers, Kris
I sent my guitar for repair of a backbowed neck where the single action truss rod was completely loose. The shop had it for a week, but claimed they couldn't repair it, but waited the 6th day to inform me they only filed some frets down and it still buzzes.
Should I pay them for a job they didn't completely fix?
Great video!! Thanks for doing this.
Yes thanks for this.
Thank you for the tips! Doing this filing now. 😃
Great video. Awesome camera corners.
To my opinion, the simplest way to get rid of that fret sprout is just to give the fretboard the necessary moisture.
I bought a Fender J Mascis Tele a couple of days ago, it's a very nice guitar, but it had a substantial fret sprout. May be it was stored not properly somewhere with extremely low humidity. I've ordered the bevelling file and the fret file online to fix that, but meanwhile I oiled the fretboard and the back side of the neck with Dunlop Lemon Oil twice (once a day). After two days there is no fret sprout at all. I'll keep the ordered files (they're still in transit) for future projects.
So personally I would rather first try my luck with humidifying the fretboard before filing or sawing something.
This is a great vídeo!
Cheers from Portugal 🍺🤘
Hey , Kris! how should I deal with the protruding fret legs under the finish? Fender maple neck. The legs of the frets are annoying, which fender does not cut at the factory. Tnx!
When are thomann gonna sell the mesh pads? You should do video with tools only from thomann.
just a short question, wich is the needed "size" for the file, is it the width of the fret itself or +/- 1mm
If you're filing the fret ends just make sure that the fret end file is a bit taller than the fret (all of them will be btw). If you want to get one that's also a crowning file, like the one I used in the video, then check the manufacturer's page for the right gauge / size that works for your frets. Cheers! //Kris
Killer tone!
What is the product item# of that file?
Thanks Very Helpful
do you need all the different files with 1 to 3mm radius? is there one you use more often than the others?
Thank you for this video brother, God Bless you in Jesus Name ❤ Keep rockin!
Thanks for the video! 🤘🏻😎
2:29 Thank you so much!
I use a 1 inch wide file with fine teeth, a few light strokes at 90 Degrees, then a small vibrator sander with 400 grit emory cloth. 2 - 3 minutes and frets are filed and sanded, smooth as glass and polished. Of course you dont do it on high end guitars.
My 1st string is always stucked on the one part of the fretwire of my guitar whenever i do a lick; it bends down and stucks there.
Just go over the side of the fretboard with high numbered sandpaper to get rid of any scratch marks
I cant beluve this every time i need to leard guitar tips your vedio comes on i shoukd just subscribe because im alway learn how to on a guitar i also need to learn some tunes ...RocknRollFlat5
Haha, do it! 😆 You'll find our well over 110 Guitar Tech Tips episodes if you do. We have a playlist with these videos, check it out in case you need infos on anything techy. Cheers man //Kris
I gots fat sm tool,its great
Noticed that you use your left hand when filing. Yet you play right handed. Anyways love your work man. Keep up the good work!
You sounds like Jimi!
For sharp fret ends, use a diamond-grit fingernail file and you don't need to buy a special tool.
Excalibur!
Thanks for the great guide. Just wonder why you should bother masking the body? If you already have to remove the strings why not just completely remove the neck?
If it's a bolt-on neck, you can remove it, sure. It's much faster to just mask the body around the neck pocket though and that also works on guitars with a set neck. Cheers //Kris
Unfortunately my best efforts result in a scuffed fingerboard and fret ends that still feel awful. :(
Where can I purchase this tool? thanks.
How do you like the Hosco dressing file compared to the StewMac?
Thats what I want to know!
@@michael_caz_nyc I bought the Hosco and it's very good
@@holayason8569 Thanks for the input. Appreciate it.
Which Brand of Files did you use Kris ?
Where did you get those mesh pads?
Interesting observation: I've got that exact same fret file. Why didn't you use the curved side? Would you recommend NOT using it? Why?
Hey Frankyboy, its a good file! :) The curved side is not for the fret edges. That’s for crowning the frets (crowning is when you make the frets round after leveling them).
//cheers man, Kris
@@ThomannsGuitarsBasses Okay. That's weird. Then how do you use this one file for crowning? Because the round side is not even as long as one fret?
@@fraenkiboii It's pretty sad when the tool presentation by the shop ends up with using it wrong because the guy has no clue how to use it. You know, everyone calls himself "guitar tech" or even "luthier" these days and creates bad YT content if that didn't go too well.
You are right, how could you possibly use the short concave side of the file for crowning, or even have the idea of doing so like obviously Thomann. You usually do most of the fret end dressing with the (actual) crowning file, while you have it in your hand anyway because you had to crown the frets after leveling.
The Hosco fret end file is a special tool you use on e.g. new instruments for the ends only. Then the concave side comes in handy to avoid the awkward wrist twisting the guy did in the video to follow the fret profle - the idea is that you round off the beveled ends with the concave side, doing the job of following the fret profile without much twisting the straight side of the file and guessing if you hit the curvature of the fret end right. The straight sides are mostly for reaching the "corners" (where the profile bottom meets the fretboard) to round those off (because crowning files can't reach those), or for preparing a perfect "hot dog" style fret end.
amazing tech tips, but what's is the difference between the Fret End File R1mm and R3mm and when to use which one?
The width of the groove for the fret crown. One is for small frets, there's one for medium and one for jumbo frets. You should get the right size for your instrument. 👍 Thanks! //Kris
I've done this once on a guitar I builded by my own. It was the most time consuming work of the whole build. Can this be done by a PLEK machine?
Nope, even when using a Plek this step is done by hand of our master luthiers at Thomann. The Plek Levels the frets and the nut but doesn’t do the final steps. For that you need the fine hands of experienced craftsmen.
//cheers, Kris
what brand of files?
Need a tip for a useful masking tape (link)
look at that gibson!!
this happens to my Fender Strat every damn winter man.. sharp ass frets makin it so hard to play.
Funny thing is that I watching this to smooth fret ends on Ibanez rg prestige wich I ordered from Thomann very bad
So not true about the Gibsons! I bought a standard Les Paul a few years back and that binding was over very sharp Fret ends! It tore up my fingers! I complained of course but it was not worth the hassle! Thanks for the great video though!!
Favourite episode was Ep.7 how to get rid of sharp fret edges, as I need to this on one of my basses to make it more playable.
Of course I had to do this my way. Then realised it might be junky, went back to this video and did it correctly on the other side
Your way looks better but mine is basically introduction to fretboard rolling. Guess now I'll roll both sides. Luckily it's just an ukulele
I want this to be a QC thing - whenever I go guitar shopping I don't even take guitars off the wall, I just slide across the fretboard sides and see if there are any sharp edges - if there are, I'm not interested.
Guitars barely ever leave the factory with sharp fret edges. Necks dry and wood shrinks during transport and in warehouses whilst waiting for someone to buy that guitar. If every brand did a double QC (one in the factory and one right before buying the guitar) we would all pay way more money for them.
Now, most people would get really angry if that happened.
Good news is: if you buy your guitars at a good retailer ;) you'll have 3 years of warranty and those sharp fret edges will get fixed without problems.
//cheers, Kris
@@ThomannsGuitarsBasses while I understand that this would increase prices, I have seen this issues with models made in the same year, and it's a common problem with guitars up to 1000 eur as well. I was really impressed by the Ibanez premium fret treatment when they first started the line - this is how fret ends should be rounded by the factory! With some other models it feels like they just cut off the fret ends and go over it with a sanding block once and call it a day. This is okay if you have a distributer who checks these instruments first (Meinl usually does a good job), but some lemons always end up in stores.
@@ayeapprove I bought a file and watched this video because I have a $500 ish Ibanez that I can't slide through my hands into it's stand without screaming in blood curdling agony. Made in Indonesia. A few years old. I would like to play a top end Ibanez and A-B it with mine.
Put an order on the same file in the video today after I almost cut my fingers off while playing my Strandberg. It has the worst fret job out of all my guitars.
It's crazy how an instrument that cost €2500 has such bad frets.
May I ask you what Strandberg model had that issue?
I have a Boden Original 6 out of 2020 and it has perfect frets. Now I bought a Boden Standard NX 6 and the fret ends are a little sharp.
I’m wondering if the fret job on the NX models dropped in quality…
What to do if I right-handed?
Great video. I have to file my fret ends down but have cheap files. Where did you get that one from. What is the brand name of the one your using? Thanks
Hey, check the link in the description box, you'll find the tools I use there. Cheers //Kris
@@ThomannsGuitarsBasses How should I decide which of the fret end files to buy?
Looks like that the orange Hosco file is for medium frets and the blue version should be used for jumbo frets. I suppose the orange file should be used for medium jumbo?
You’d think for the price of a USA strat it would be done at the factory.
Ikr
well if the wood shrinks from a dry season, you are going to have to file it. You might have to round it off again too.
Q: Can I do these steps while chewing gum? Just kidding. Great video...thanks from Las Vegas.
Sure man! You can do anything while chewing gum. Well, maybe except for eating and sleeping. Thanks a lot buddy! //Kris
Again I'll leave that to the Pros. If'n I take a file to my frets a Refret will probably in order. and for very little cash a good shop can smooth out all the fiddily bits with out tool slips.
Stay Safe Ery body
And that's totally cool, guitar techs need work too. :) This video is for those who would do these things themselves anyhow. You wouldn't believe how many Thomann customers don't know when to get which tool and how to use them.
//cheers, Kris
Doing those at home is a fun thing to do, also it's a good way to learn more about your guitars as well
Knowledge is power! I know there are folks out there who with just a bit of help and guidance could totally save time and money doing it themselves and enjoy the “work” process. 🤘🏽
@@MrManWest, I'm not skilled at any of this stuff, but I'm willing to attempt to learn with care and patience. Every time I read about someone taking their guitar "in" for a restring, I have to give my head a wobble.
I work in a hospital emergency room and play guitar for a hobby. I have seen some of the horrific injuries done by sharp fret ends. Let me tell you, it's not for the squeamish. I still have nightmares. Oh, the humanity.
What fret end file? What mesh pad? What masking tape for guitar? Links?
there is a 'gear used' link in the description
StewMac sells the file. Check their site.
With threaded necks, just remove them... ;-)
Safer for the bodies.
Buying your guitars this is an important thing to know.
They can become dangerous, lol, look out….
I don’t have any Fenders. Guess I’m good to go! 🤣
Bought a brand new guitar.
As soon as I unpacked it, I ran my finger along the edge of the fretboard testing for sharpness. Immediately sliced my skin open.
Why are they allowed to ship like this. :(
In shops where people are working with wood stock, the humidity is locked into place with huge industrial humidifiers. When they install the frets, your neck is physically larger than when you receive it. When you get it, it's been dried out in the mail and your home is under 50% humidity. I'm in Chicago, even with radiators my home drops below 25% humidity in the winter. That's an enormous difference from 49-55%
Same thing just happened to mean bought i guitar yesterday can barely play it because it's eating my fingers up...very disappointed cause it sounds so good
@@tonysilker9685, exactly why I have an evaporative room humidifier on its way.
🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘
I’m having sharp fret edges on an EVH Wolfgang Special guitar that cost me $2000 Cdn, I shouldn’t have these problems with a “supposed reputable company” like Peavey and EVH Guitars. I guess the luthier wasn’t really a luthier at all. 😏
Wood is wood, even if it’s perfect out of the factory, the guitar can still be exposed to cold, heat, excess humidity or lack thereof, different pressures etc that will absolutely affect the fretboard. It’s best to always get your guitars set up right after you buy them, even the most expensive ones are susceptible to physical damage and wood shrinkage from even only a few hours in non-ideal environments.
Why you at Grandma's house?
Because grandma borrowed my fret end files and didn't want to give them back. So I had to shoot in her living room.
//cheers, Kris
Just buy the proper tools for fretwork. I've literally tried everything non specialized on a practice neck from an old junk guitar. I can level pretty well with a good 16" level with sticky sandpaper but everything else is a no go. I thought that between my woodworking and finishing skill, having patience, and an extensive workshop full of tools that I could figure something out to "save money" fixing sharp fret ends. Just buy the proper stuff for fretwork. You'll waste a ton of time and masking tape and still end up ordering crowning and dressing files.
Exactly! There are many things you can fix on a guitar with improvised / self customised tools but this is not one of them. Haha! Fret end files and crowning files are the only good tools for fret work. Good thing is, you have to buy it once and can use it on dozens and dozens of guitars so it's not a bad investment. Cheers //Kris
this labor is the difference between a $500 guitar and a $3000 guitar.
It's a lot more between them (ALL the hardware and electronic parts are of much higher quality on expensive guitars) but yeah, this is the one detail that makes the most obvious difference between the playing feel. Cheers //Kris
new people god tape your frets ha
A bit embarrassing. The file has a groove so you can file the fret ends without damaging the fingerboard. That is the idea behind it. On the video, the gentleman uses the other side. Does not really make sense, sorry.
Hi, that groove is for the fret crown, not specifically for the fret ends. You can use it for that too if you want to but the flat file side (the one I used) is the one especially made for the ends. As explained in the video. Cheers //Kris
“I'm afraid of idiots, because there are many of them and they can elect a president.”
- Facundo Cabral-
Or.... send the F'ing guitar back.
Not always the answer. I've had fret sprout on guitars I've owned for years.
You talk too much!
Bro, shave your head
Thanks very helpful