Your o-ring groove should not be the same width as the o-ring's cross-section. For a static face seal (which this is) it should be ~1.35 times wider. Since your pressure is from w/in, wanting to move outward, your groove OD should be ~3% smaller than the actual o-ring OD. You were correct with the depth, as it should yield a 20-30% "squish" of the o-ring, once the plates are mated and torqued. As for machining, I would've cut maybe 10thou depth and checked groove OD, before continuing. Maybe you did, but the vid didn't show it. Either way, glad it worked out.
Great video! Love making tools for a job. I think and edge finder would've done just fine considering the rough surface of the port unless one wasn't available. One thing that's important with DTIs is to keep the needle/stylus as close to parallel with the wall or surface as you can to mitigate cosine error. Not a big deal for a part like this but when tenths count it really matters.
Is that micro 100 standard grooving o-ring grooving boar bar or is it a different one I need to do a similar procedure could you tell me the part number of the tool you were using thank you
Great job Kyle!👍
really nice video, i look forward to seeing more stuff like this!
Nice work !
Your o-ring groove should not be the same width as the o-ring's cross-section. For a static face seal (which this is) it should be ~1.35 times wider. Since your pressure is from w/in, wanting to move outward, your groove OD should be ~3% smaller than the actual o-ring OD. You were correct with the depth, as it should yield a 20-30% "squish" of the o-ring, once the plates are mated and torqued.
As for machining, I would've cut maybe 10thou depth and checked groove OD, before continuing. Maybe you did, but the vid didn't show it.
Either way, glad it worked out.
Love these videos! Very educational
Thank you!
Great video! Love making tools for a job. I think and edge finder would've done just fine considering the rough surface of the port unless one wasn't available. One thing that's important with DTIs is to keep the needle/stylus as close to parallel with the wall or surface as you can to mitigate cosine error. Not a big deal for a part like this but when tenths count it really matters.
Is that micro 100 standard grooving o-ring grooving boar bar or is it a different one I need to do a similar procedure could you tell me the part number of the tool you were using thank you