a very pretty cover, I am yet to find someone to explain if it matters about the distance between the spine and the covers, I may just default to 2mm as suggested here
One thing is not clear to me, is the spine board of the same material (i.e. the same thickness) as the cover boards? Would it differ depending on the spine being curved or flat?
No, it is thinner so that it will flex when rounding the spine. If you were not going to make a rounded spine, then yes, the spine would be the same thickness.
I'm a bit confused: the kraft paper part is described as an optional mock up but then the boards and decorative paper are stuck on to it and it appears to be part of the final product. Thank you for this series-- so helpful.
It just holds everything together so you can see if the cover fits and gives extra stability. if you don’t do it it’s had to see if the cover fits ok if you just use the book cloth and mess up you have lost your boards but if you use the paper and your not happy with the fit you can cut the paper off and start again hope that makes cense. I have started doing this way and it helps a lot
Amazing videos. Thank you very much! Quick question: what kind of paper should I use for the cover? And for the case? I am looking for precise information, ideally with recommendations.... ? ;)
Usually straight spines use a thicker board for the spine board, which I think is just slightly thicker (I seem to recall that it's the width of one board thicker, but I haven't done it for years, so would need to check it). If you're using a thin board, I would do it the width of the spine, but you may then need to make the cover boards wider. I'd need to check it before giving definite measurements.
@@AnnesiBindings yes, the person I learned from uses the same density board for spines as the main cover. I've been covering with thicker curtain type fabric as you know... apocalypse and all - don't leave the house unnecessarily and i've managed a few hardcover books but it always seems to crimp slightly and then binds too tightly. No one else notices this but I'm a perfectionist. I might try add just a 2mm leeway on the spines and see if that helps. Also, when I clicked on your video and heard your accent I did a little happy dance and was like "That's defs from SA!" then i checked and yesss! Nice to see south africans making epic content!
@@lisasippel6293 Haha, thank you! Yes, try it ever so slightly more. Getting the width measurement right is tricky. I find using the craft paper thing helpful, but even that can be deceptive as different materials affect the spacing in different ways.
@@lisasippel6293 I always position the boards correctly on the text block first, then measure with a piece of paper around the spine and ADD the width of the two boards to that measurement, to allow for the indentation of the gap. I check both head and tail to ensure accuracy. Another method is the BRADEL binding method. Check out DAS BOOKBINDING videos. I'm another S.A. by the way!!
To make up for the gap between the spine on each side, allowing it to flex open. If you didn't allow the space, the front and back cover would bind up and it wouldn't open.
Is there a set rule for how large to make the spine board and coverboards? I am rebinding a book that is about 9.3 x 2 x 6, and I am trying to figure out how best to measure for this... If it makes a difference I am using flexible bible board to rebind this book.
Usually allow 3 - 4mm overhang to the head, the tail and the fore-edge. Depending on the construction of the text block, ( is it just rounded, or rounded and backed), usually allow about 7mm from the spine edge to the board. Check out Das Bookbinding for more info. Sorry I don't work in inches!
Apologies for not replying sooner. There are various systems that depend on the type of binding you are doing and the size of the book, and also the thickness of the board. In one bindery I worked in we always made the boards 8 mm longer than the book block and 3 mm narrower, while in another bindery we always made them 10 mm longer and the same width (which I don't think worked as well), and the spine board and grooves then need to be adjusted accordingly. I'm not very good at working it out exactly and prefer to trust my own eye and then test it by gluing the spine and boards to a piece of kraft paper (which I may remove afterwards). But you will find various ways of working this out.
@@AnnesiBindings no worries! I have rebound various titles in my collection with different degrees of success using some of your methods. Admittedly, I need to do more research, but I'm someone who likes to learn hands on. If you would be willing I would love to share some images with you and get feedback/some tips. In any case, thanks for your great videos they enabled me to learn this new craft :)
Wonderful video. Thank you for showing how to do the corner details. 📘
Thank you! So helpful, and also the use of metric!
No more 1/4 inch and 1/8 inches! Thank you!
a very pretty cover, I am yet to find someone to explain if it matters about the distance between the spine and the covers, I may just default to 2mm as suggested here
One thing is not clear to me, is the spine board of the same material (i.e. the same thickness) as the cover boards? Would it differ depending on the spine being curved or flat?
No, it is thinner so that it will flex when rounding the spine. If you were not going to make a rounded spine, then yes, the spine would be the same thickness.
This was a really helpfull video. Thank you :)
Wonderful!
I'm a bit confused: the kraft paper part is described as an optional
mock up but then the boards and decorative paper are stuck on to it and it appears
to be part of the final product. Thank you for this series-- so
helpful.
It just holds everything together so you can see if the cover fits and gives extra stability. if you don’t do it it’s had to see if the cover fits ok if you just use the book cloth and mess up you have lost your boards but if you use the paper and your not happy with the fit you can cut the paper off and start again hope that makes cense. I have started doing this way and it helps a lot
@@christineharvey7167 is the Kraft paper acid-free?
Amazing videos. Thank you very much! Quick question: what kind of paper should I use for the cover? And for the case? I am looking for precise information, ideally with recommendations.... ? ;)
If you don't curve the spine, do you just make the spine exactly the same as the text block spine?
Usually straight spines use a thicker board for the spine board, which I think is just slightly thicker (I seem to recall that it's the width of one board thicker, but I haven't done it for years, so would need to check it). If you're using a thin board, I would do it the width of the spine, but you may then need to make the cover boards wider. I'd need to check it before giving definite measurements.
@@AnnesiBindings yes, the person I learned from uses the same density board for spines as the main cover. I've been covering with thicker curtain type fabric as you know... apocalypse and all - don't leave the house unnecessarily and i've managed a few hardcover books but it always seems to crimp slightly and then binds too tightly. No one else notices this but I'm a perfectionist. I might try add just a 2mm leeway on the spines and see if that helps. Also, when I clicked on your video and heard your accent I did a little happy dance and was like "That's defs from SA!" then i checked and yesss! Nice to see south africans making epic content!
@@lisasippel6293 Haha, thank you! Yes, try it ever so slightly more. Getting the width measurement right is tricky. I find using the craft paper thing helpful, but even that can be deceptive as different materials affect the spacing in different ways.
@@AnnesiBindings thank you! That was a very helpful tip. Except I don't have craft paper LOL. but I have some other things that may work instead.
@@lisasippel6293 I always position the boards correctly on the text block first, then measure with a piece of paper around the spine and ADD the width of the two boards to that measurement, to allow for the indentation of the gap. I check both head and tail to ensure accuracy.
Another method is the BRADEL binding method. Check out DAS BOOKBINDING videos.
I'm another S.A. by the way!!
what sort of board do you use for the spine?
What gsm is the spine board?
it's not really clear to me why the width of the cover is 2mm shorter than the size of the paper
To make up for the gap between the spine on each side, allowing it to flex open. If you didn't allow the space, the front and back cover would bind up and it wouldn't open.
What glue did you use?
Thanks
You're welcome!
Is there a set rule for how large to make the spine board and coverboards? I am rebinding a book that is about 9.3 x 2 x 6, and I am trying to figure out how best to measure for this...
If it makes a difference I am using flexible bible board to rebind this book.
Usually allow 3 - 4mm overhang to the head, the tail and the fore-edge. Depending on the construction of the text block, ( is it just rounded, or rounded and backed), usually allow about 7mm from the spine edge to the board. Check out Das Bookbinding for more info. Sorry I don't work in inches!
Apologies for not replying sooner. There are various systems that depend on the type of binding you are doing and the size of the book, and also the thickness of the board. In one bindery I worked in we always made the boards 8 mm longer than the book block and 3 mm narrower, while in another bindery we always made them 10 mm longer and the same width (which I don't think worked as well), and the spine board and grooves then need to be adjusted accordingly. I'm not very good at working it out exactly and prefer to trust my own eye and then test it by gluing the spine and boards to a piece of kraft paper (which I may remove afterwards). But you will find various ways of working this out.
@@AnnesiBindings no worries! I have rebound various titles in my collection with different degrees of success using some of your methods. Admittedly, I need to do more research, but I'm someone who likes to learn hands on. If you would be willing I would love to share some images with you and get feedback/some tips. In any case, thanks for your great videos they enabled me to learn this new craft :)
I also now work with mm because it is far easier
Imagine watching these for fun how wierd you'd have to be having no purpose to watch these but wasting time doing so definitely not me
Actually take this back there's value in watching skilled people work
You got me, sir! I'm just enjoying watching people doing things that I can't do. It keeps me humble haha
i am getting very confused 7 mm longer than the book block is way different than it looks like yours is definitely to long