I know this is an old video but I thought I'd give my two cents for anyone that is going to do this at home and is reading the comments. The front stud can easily be reached with a ratcheting wrench by going under the heater hose coming off the water pump. The rear is easy to get with a 14mm deep well socket and flex head ratchet. You can pretty much plan on spinning the ground wire and ripping it so cut it extend it to a ground stud on the cowl with a new ring terminal. There is no need to remove the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing because most likely you'll fight it and the job will take twice as long. Whole job took me about 15min without removing the upper hose. Hope this helps someone.
James O'Brien I wouldn't be doing the job if it were still good. You can tell if it's still good by starting the engine cold and holding on to the upper radiator hose. If it warms up gradually, and fairly quickly, it's stuck open. I have a scanner that shows engine coolant temp. so I can hold the hose and watch the temp. hose should stay cool until desired temp. than when thermostat opens hose gets hot quickly.
@@jhitt79 What it my temp level isn't going up & I'm not getting heat? I am temporarily using water for radiator fluid tho so that could have alot to do with it
Bravo my friend...you picked one of the hardest vehicles to work on, Astros, even GM mechanics hate working on em., no room to do anything! Im going to attempt to change mine an 87 w/ the old TBI, a bit more room than yours, but further back by the TBI, thanks!
Thanks for the information on the Craftsman 3 piece socket. I too have a 1999 Astro and last summer I planned on replacing the thermostat while doing a coolant flush but I ran into all the clearance problems you described. As the thermostat was working o.k. I gave up on replacing it. With your video I think i will make another attempt to replace it.
thank you SO MUCH! I'd been waiting to get some extra cash to have someone find out why I wasn't getting heat in the van AND why the vent dial on the dash wasn't working. Replaced the Thermo and b/c of your mess-up I found the busted Vac Hose and repaired that with a straw too. Now I've got heat on these 9 degree mornings up here in the rockies, Thanks Again!.
Don't feel bad that you have never changed this thermostat before.. I have taken mine to three separate mechanics expressly to have the thermostat changed. One changed radiator and one changed water pump and said they had done the thermostate too, 'of course', but they never did, and the last one didn't either. He just ran the engine until it overheated and blew a core plug. The only reason the engine didn't seize was Slick 50. Seems like people will do just about anything to avoid changing a thermostat in these beasts! Thank you for showing and telling how it is done. I still have mine to fix, along with a core plug (aka freeze plug'.
This was a great video!!! Helped me do the job pretty quickly. I was able to remove the rear nut with a deep socket 13mm and used a 13mm wrench on the front nut ... didn't need the fancy tool from Sears.
Thank you, thank you, thank you ! I was dreading having to change my thermostat, but now I think I am armed with the knowledge to get it done! I would recommend that anyone keep the green antifreeze, as the orange stuff is corrosive.
Today I looked up the item number on the sears website for the socket cap set and they were 10.99. Ran down to Sears to find out they don't open until 11am. Decided to blow some time in harbor fright and they happen to have an identical set "made in china of course" for 3.99. worked like a charm.
Great post helped me do it by myself today .Used quarter inch drive with small extension and deep well sockets.worked fine.Careful of the ground wire can break easily.Thanks for the post.
Just did this and your video was very helpful. When I tried to remove the 14mm nut, the stud unscrewed and I had to cut of the ground wire to allow the connector to rotate with the stud. Then spliced in a piece of wire to reattach the connector. I had to chase threads on the stud for the 14mm nut and then used a small amount of blue/removable loctite to the portion of the stud which went into the block and anti seize on the 14mm nut so that this hopefully won't happen agin if I eve have to replace the thermostat again. Nice heat now. I cut off the top portion of the front stud so that a 'normal' length socket fits on it now. Again less hassle if I ever have to do this job again. Also found the small vacuum line was broken behind the thermostat which appears to provide vacuum to the heater controls. I spliced in a piece of hose to 'fix' the vacuum tube. Can anyone confirm what that vacuum tube actually does? I think it has been broken for years and probably happened when I replaced the alternator several years ago. I searched in my GM factory manuals but have not yet found the info about the vacuum line. Until the old thermostat went bad, I used to have what I thought was normal heating for the van. ??????
Great tutorial. I'll add that with the thermostat housing bolts, the front one i got with a 1/4 inch socket, an extension, and a 13mm deep socket. The rear one was the same except I had to take off the extension.
Thank you for the most thorough and relevant video on this topic. It’s so annoying when the narrator starts complaining about prices or whatever irrelevant info for half the video. And they show the parts already removed, etc., as if I know what and how they took them out. Only complaints are you didn’t show how you drained the fluid. There are endless people asking that online. Drain clock? Radiator hose? How much? (Level to Tstat makes sense.) And I couldn’t find a link to Part 2, so I searched many other videos to hopefully find that I info. If you’re still making videos, please start at the very beginning. Teach as if to a child step by step. But overall, your video is the most helpful to a novice by far. Thank you!
Thank you. It is a very valid comment that I agree completely with. This Astro video was one of my first - 12 years ago now - I have built a channel since then on exactly what you suggest. Videos for novices, by a novice, trying to hit all the most basic steps that most video makers omit because they seem obvious to them.
I don't recall how I drained the antifreeze, but typically, I would pull the large hose off the bottom of the radiator. Make sure to have a big pan because it will all come out and there is plenty of it.
Good video. I would not switch back to Dexcool. Dexcool has been known to plug heater cores when coolant level runs low. It happened to may Camaro and GM is aware of it. I use global coolant which supposedly mixes with all colors of coolant. Thanks for the info on the Craftsman tool. I was getting a coolant temp DTC on my 2004 Safari (like your 1999 Astro) with poor heater performance. Now the heat rocks and the temp gauge goes up to 210. Thanks again for posting your video (hope the vacuum hose trick worked)!
In a pinch you can also grind the threaded portion of a bolt square, as a makeshift versiom of tool mentioned in the video. I'm about to do this myself, I suspect the front nut will be able to be removed with the help of a wobble extension.
Not sure about the 1999 Astro but on my 2001 Safari, it's easy to remove the air intake resonator with the finger screw in the rear part of it. Then you can access the rear thermostat bolt easier.
Good video. Just an FYI, Mixing a “green” coolant with DEX-COOL reduces the batch’s change interval to 2 years or 30,000 miles, but will otherwise cause no damage to the engine. In order to change back to DEX-COOL however, the cooling system must first be thoroughly drained and flushed.
I need clearance to get to the egr right bolt. Coolant hose is coming out today...how much coolant did u take out? Can I just use a turkey baster at the filler opening?
I feel your pain ;-). Had to replace the rotory button on 2002 chevy silverado and tool set just wasn't right. Beginning to buy more tools specific to my vehichal to avoid such problems in the future.
A deep socket... Using a( 3/8)breaker bar.. That... will loosen bolt.. Tip of breaker bar..is thinner then ratchet head... On back bolt... First remove..gadget on right side of thermostat ... That gives easy access to use box-wrench..
Well he did not have it at that point of time I guess. But , he had that adopter so case solved as you can see. And that adopter is about $4 at harbour freight . LoL
@@mbrenengen Yes, because I'm doing this job (& thank God I have access to a good shop w/ abt every size extensión. Finally had to use a knuckle socket extension after messing around an hour on the back bolt. So yah, I guess I need 'extension lessons' (but I aint no tech either Was jus clownin 🤡
Thanks for the info on the TIGHT AREA tool from Sears. . . . I have a TBI (Z code) 1992 Astro, with a bit more room than you have. . . .but I do know some other jobs that could use that tool.
I've seen plenty of degloving injuries, and many of them happened without jewelry being involved. Get your hands in the wrong spot with anything that pull or moves inwards, and it's gonna suck the meat off your bone like a bar drunk with deep fried wings.
Yikes! What color is the wire? Is it just the black one that goes on the stud with connector that looks like a circle? That would just be a ground. Strip what's left and connect it to something grounded. Or is in another wire. More details, I am sure someone can help.
sears? lol, how old is this video? i have crafsman tools from the early 80's. if i can save $170.00 on a $560.00 repair, it is worth it. replace upper and lower radiator hoses, thermostat (all OEM parts and coolent), then flush on an 03 astro. i can do it myself, but no worm garage, disposal and proper tools.
Is it really worth anyone's time to try and do this yourself? Really? Take it to a shop where they deal with this constantly and have all the tools. Go and play some golf and come back and pick up your vehicle.
Just admit you likely can't do it, and you consider golf a sport and exercise. I'd much rather do it myself in 20 minutes, than have to drive it somewhere...then make someone else come pick me up like a pre-schooler so we can go play touch-butt on the golf course. Why are you watching videos on changing a thermostat if you would prefer to dress up like a Scottish sailor and practice the valuable skill of swinging an overpriced club at a tiny white ball while your buddy checks your form and whispers words of inspiration into your ear? Shouldn't you be watching videos of dude's hips twisting and proper follow through instead?
@@PowerScissor some of us live in Apt complexes that don't allow you to work on your own car. You can't even do that in a Condominium complex or a house if you live in a planned community with association dues.
I know this is an old video but I thought I'd give my two cents for anyone that is going to do this at home and is reading the comments. The front stud can easily be reached with a ratcheting wrench by going under the heater hose coming off the water pump. The rear is easy to get with a 14mm deep well socket and flex head ratchet. You can pretty much plan on spinning the ground wire and ripping it so cut it extend it to a ground stud on the cowl with a new ring terminal. There is no need to remove the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing because most likely you'll fight it and the job will take twice as long. Whole job took me about 15min without removing the upper hose. Hope this helps someone.
jhitt79 put the old thermostat in boiling water, to see if it pops or contorts at all. If the valve moves under heat, then it's still good.
James O'Brien I wouldn't be doing the job if it were still good. You can tell if it's still good by starting the engine cold and holding on to the upper radiator hose. If it warms up gradually, and fairly quickly, it's stuck open. I have a scanner that shows engine coolant temp. so I can hold the hose and watch the temp. hose should stay cool until desired temp. than when thermostat opens hose gets hot quickly.
jhitt79 Did not know that.
Yes. This worked for me too. Took me about 45 mins.
@@jhitt79 What it my temp level isn't going up & I'm not getting heat? I am temporarily using water for radiator fluid tho so that could have alot to do with it
Bravo my friend...you picked one of the hardest vehicles to work on, Astros, even GM mechanics hate working on em., no room to do anything! Im going to attempt to change mine an 87 w/ the old TBI, a bit more room than yours, but further back by the TBI, thanks!
Very true
Thanks for the information on the Craftsman 3 piece socket. I too have a 1999 Astro and last summer I planned on replacing the thermostat while doing a coolant flush but I ran into all the clearance problems you described. As the thermostat was working o.k. I gave up on replacing it. With your video I think i will make another attempt to replace it.
thank you SO MUCH! I'd been waiting to get some extra cash to have someone find out why I wasn't getting heat in the van AND why the vent dial on the dash wasn't working. Replaced the Thermo and b/c of your mess-up I found the busted Vac Hose and repaired that with a straw too. Now I've got heat on these 9 degree mornings up here in the rockies, Thanks Again!.
Don't feel bad that you have never changed this thermostat before.. I have taken mine to three separate mechanics expressly to have the thermostat changed. One changed radiator and one changed water pump and said they had done the thermostate too, 'of course', but they never did, and the last one didn't either. He just ran the engine until it overheated and blew a core plug. The only reason the engine didn't seize was Slick 50. Seems like people will do just about anything to avoid changing a thermostat in these beasts! Thank you for showing and telling how it is done. I still have mine to fix, along with a core plug (aka freeze plug'.
This is why I am cursed to figure these things out myself. I just don't trust anyone else to be honest...
This was a great video!!! Helped me do the job pretty quickly. I was able to remove the rear nut with a deep socket 13mm and used a 13mm wrench on the front nut ... didn't need the fancy tool from Sears.
Thank you, thank you, thank you ! I was dreading having to change my thermostat, but now I think I am armed with the knowledge to get it done! I would recommend that anyone keep the green antifreeze, as the orange stuff is corrosive.
Today I looked up the item number on the sears website for the socket cap set and they were 10.99. Ran down to Sears to find out they don't open until 11am. Decided to blow some time in harbor fright and they happen to have an identical set
"made in china of course" for 3.99. worked like a charm.
Yup I've got both just as you said it's cheap over at harbor freight. $3.99
Great post helped me do it by myself today .Used quarter inch drive with small extension and deep well sockets.worked fine.Careful of the ground wire can break easily.Thanks for the post.
Just did this and your video was very helpful. When I tried to remove the 14mm nut, the stud unscrewed and I had to cut of the ground wire to allow the connector to rotate with the stud. Then spliced in a piece of wire to reattach the connector. I had to chase threads on the stud for the 14mm nut and then used a small amount of blue/removable loctite to the portion of the stud which went into the block and anti seize on the 14mm nut so that this hopefully won't happen agin if I eve have to replace the thermostat again. Nice heat now.
I cut off the top portion of the front stud so that a 'normal' length socket fits on it now. Again less hassle if I ever have to do this job again.
Also found the small vacuum line was broken behind the thermostat which appears to provide vacuum to the heater controls. I spliced in a piece of hose to 'fix' the vacuum tube.
Can anyone confirm what that vacuum tube actually does? I think it has been broken for years and probably happened when I replaced the alternator several years ago. I searched in my GM factory manuals but have not yet found the info about the vacuum line.
Until the old thermostat went bad, I used to have what I thought was normal heating for the van. ??????
Good video. I like that you just walk us through the process.
Great tutorial. I'll add that with the thermostat housing bolts, the front one i got with a 1/4 inch socket, an extension, and a 13mm deep socket. The rear one was the same except I had to take off the extension.
Thank you for the most thorough and relevant video on this topic. It’s so annoying when the narrator starts complaining about prices or whatever irrelevant info for half the video. And they show the parts already removed, etc., as if I know what and how they took them out. Only complaints are you didn’t show how you drained the fluid. There are endless people asking that online. Drain clock? Radiator hose? How much? (Level to Tstat makes sense.) And I couldn’t find a link to Part 2, so I searched many other videos to hopefully find that I info. If you’re still making videos, please start at the very beginning. Teach as if to a child step by step. But overall, your video is the most helpful to a novice by far. Thank you!
Thank you. It is a very valid comment that I agree completely with. This Astro video was one of my first - 12 years ago now - I have built a channel since then on exactly what you suggest. Videos for novices, by a novice, trying to hit all the most basic steps that most video makers omit because they seem obvious to them.
I don't recall how I drained the antifreeze, but typically, I would pull the large hose off the bottom of the radiator. Make sure to have a big pan because it will all come out and there is plenty of it.
Good video. I would not switch back to Dexcool. Dexcool has been known to plug heater cores when coolant level runs low. It happened to may Camaro and GM is aware of it. I use global coolant which supposedly mixes with all colors of coolant. Thanks for the info on the Craftsman tool. I was getting a coolant temp DTC on my 2004 Safari (like your 1999 Astro) with poor heater performance. Now the heat rocks and the temp gauge goes up to 210. Thanks again for posting your video (hope the vacuum hose trick worked)!
In a pinch you can also grind the threaded portion of a bolt square, as a makeshift versiom of tool mentioned in the video. I'm about to do this myself, I suspect the front nut will be able to be removed with the help of a wobble extension.
They have this neat tool called a socket extension. You should check it out sometime 🙄
Not sure about the 1999 Astro but on my 2001 Safari, it's easy to remove the air intake resonator with the finger screw in the rear part of it. Then you can access the rear thermostat bolt easier.
Thanks my Mech will do this tomorrow.
Good video. Just an FYI, Mixing a “green” coolant with DEX-COOL reduces the batch’s change interval to 2 years or 30,000 miles, but will otherwise cause no damage to the engine. In order to change back to DEX-COOL however, the cooling system must first be thoroughly drained and flushed.
Is the thing right next to where he is working the EGR valve? Came across this video while searching the internet for the egr on the W engines..
That's why I have swivel ratchet wrenches, expensive as crap, but so useful. I love van, but I fear their engine compartments.
Try it on Astro van you will see if that's works on you. LoL 😉
I need clearance to get to the egr right bolt. Coolant hose is coming out today...how much coolant did u take out? Can I just use a turkey baster at the filler opening?
I feel your pain ;-). Had to replace the rotory button on 2002 chevy silverado and tool set just wasn't right. Beginning to buy more tools specific to my vehichal to avoid such problems in the future.
very well indeed,! thanks a lot I'm learning a lot from you my friend God bless !!
Hey did you record this? Did you use a tripod?
Getting the footage over the shoulder is helpful.
youviewme I
Thanks for the video, it help me get the job done!
what is the trans lock, the red cap beside the transmission fluid? what is the use? thank you
Great video thanks a lot 👍🏼👏👏👏
A deep socket...
Using a( 3/8)breaker bar..
That... will loosen bolt..
Tip of breaker bar..is thinner then ratchet head...
On back bolt...
First remove..gadget on right side of thermostat ...
That gives easy access to use box-wrench..
2:30 What you needed was a pass thru socket
Well he did not have it at that point of time I guess. But , he had that adopter so case solved as you can see. And that adopter is about $4 at harbour freight . LoL
@@maxinpains6937 $4 at HF? What's the name of it, might be needing one
@@maxinpains6937 NVM It's Pittsburgh Square Drive Socket Caps
Great video thanks a lot sir
Question, have you ever heard of something called an extension?
Sure. Do you need to know what it is?
@@mbrenengen Yes, because I'm doing this job (& thank God I have access to a good shop w/ abt every size extensión. Finally had to use a knuckle socket extension after messing around an hour on the back bolt.
So yah, I guess I need 'extension lessons' (but I aint no tech either
Was jus clownin 🤡
Thanks for the info on the TIGHT AREA tool from Sears. . . . I have a TBI (Z code) 1992 Astro, with a bit more room than you have. . . .but I do know some other jobs that could use that tool.
Harbor freight sells that special socket adopter . I had a Craftsman one but I've lost it. So I've stumbled on to Harbor freight one. It's about $4.
Universal joint works as well on an extention.. just did the job
Did this help with making your heat hotter?
Not really.
Swivel socket adapter and 1 short extension
I used a swivel and a extension and was able to get both of them out
Thanks bro its a bit cold there thanks for shering
Why Didn't you Do That In The summer Time ?
thanks Matthew
I'm about to do the same job. Could you have just used an extension to get that pain in the ass but off?
Having personally witnessed a degloving injury, I always giggle when I see someone working with a jewelry on.
By that logic, just getting married would be a danger. I don't think I was in danger of having my finger ripped off. But thanks. :)
@@mbrenengen nobody ever thinks it will happen to them...
I've seen plenty of degloving injuries, and many of them happened without jewelry being involved. Get your hands in the wrong spot with anything that pull or moves inwards, and it's gonna suck the meat off your bone like a bar drunk with deep fried wings.
dexcool is always orange.use full strength then mix it 50/50. if you use the premix coolant it doesm;t give the proper protection for the engine.
Help!! i replaced the thermostat and the cable on the back screw ripped and now my van wont start and i need it for work! can some one help me?
Yikes! What color is the wire? Is it just the black one that goes on the stud with connector that looks like a circle? That would just be a ground. Strip what's left and connect it to something grounded. Or is in another wire. More details, I am sure someone can help.
Hiya that back wire is a ground strap. Crimp new end on it and remount it
didnt even know they had a part like that ima order one now lol could come in handy
Eu tenho uma astro van 86 automatica ela so engata re. E 1 alguem pode m falar oque pode ser
you really don;t need to buy a special socket for this job.just loosen the accel cable hoder and you'll have plenty of room.
should of used a crows footprob would of worked..to damn cold to be doing that now..lol
you broke it lol.nice work.
Wrench < nut
Socket < nut
Special socket < nut
HALF INCH IMPACT
+ SWIVEL. > nut
+ 16" EXTENSION
I win
Next time doing mechanical work take off your wedding band , I had my ring on 1x it got caught on something almost took my figure off !!!
Not bad advice - especially working around the electrical.
sears? lol, how old is this video? i have crafsman tools from the early 80's. if i can save $170.00 on a $560.00 repair, it is worth it. replace upper and lower radiator hoses, thermostat (all OEM parts and coolent), then flush on an 03 astro. i can do it myself, but no worm garage, disposal and proper tools.
Nooo!!! Don't put in Dex-Cool! (he says six years after the video was made, so he's probably too late)
Do not flush the green coolant out
It would be a good idea to wear gloves. Radiator fluid and skin contact is not safe.
use a u-joint.
Is it really worth anyone's time to try and do this yourself? Really? Take it to a shop where they deal with this constantly and have all the tools. Go and play some golf and come back and pick up your vehicle.
Just admit you likely can't do it, and you consider golf a sport and exercise.
I'd much rather do it myself in 20 minutes, than have to drive it somewhere...then make someone else come pick me up like a pre-schooler so we can go play touch-butt on the golf course.
Why are you watching videos on changing a thermostat if you would prefer to dress up like a Scottish sailor and practice the valuable skill of swinging an overpriced club at a tiny white ball while your buddy checks your form and whispers words of inspiration into your ear?
Shouldn't you be watching videos of dude's hips twisting and proper follow through instead?
@@PowerScissor some of us live in Apt complexes that don't allow you to work on your own car. You can't even do that in a Condominium complex or a house if you live in a planned community with association dues.
Hate how long every video seems to take to GET TO THE POINT. Wadsworth constant. STOP TALKING. JUST GET IT DONE!!!!