On this topic, I think it's interesting that the most common filler for student-grade paint is Calcium Carbonate, which was a component of Rembrandt's medium. He used Calcium Carbonate + Sun-Thickened Linseed Oil, forming a thick white past, that he mixed with his paints to give his paintings that thick/sticky texture.
Mark, your information is so good and you are so generous in sharing it. Thank you. I've purchased your courses and they are excellent. You are a gift and treasure to the art community. May the Holy One of all creation continue to bless you and your work. Thank you.
In addition to the Ralph Mayer book, there are two other excellent ones. "The Materials of the Artist & Their Use in Painting " by Max Doerner, and "The Painter's Methods and Materials" by A.P. Laurie.
I want to thank you again for all your videos. You have helped and inspired me more than any class I've taken, or other videos I've watched. I have really fallen in love with painting, thanks in large part to you.
I just found your channel and you cover all areas very well. Anything I need to know seems to be right here. I have to say that you speak very well, not too fast and NOT too slow, which makes for a great teacher! I will be watching most of these more than once. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, very generous of you.
The paint mill also crushes the grains of pigment into smaller grains. Some pigments are like sand. Grains are big. Adding oil does not have to make the film weaker. lacquered chests that are hundreds of years does not have any cracks.
Ha! I have heard you mention the Mayer book before. I have had that book since art school days - a gazillion years ago! Loved it. Back then it was a tremendous resource! It still sits on my shelf although as my painting days waned - I did not open it for many years. It must have helped, cuz none of my old paintings are faded, cracked or anything bad! My copy is the Third Edition ( pretty old).
The thing about siblings and jealousy is real. Our son was an 'only' until our daughter came along when he was eight. He was extremely jealous. It was dreadful and impossible to make him understand that love is not finite. Thankfully they both grew up to become adults who love each other, although I'm sure if he was honest he'd tell you he always felt we loved him less. It was of course not true at all. Frightening to think if he'd been a different kid. . . . I like Troy Roberts' approach to people. Kind and empathetic.
First off, dittos! So oils are a reach for me right now (and I am reaching) but I have to concentrate on acrylics for clothing uses. I have had some exposure to classical art, and have been trying to hack an education. Other than the speed of production and material flexibility of heat set acrylic media, and a whole bunch of spin-off techniques that are worlds of their own, there is a solid classical overlap. What I am missing is an equally authoritative expert source about acrylic paints. So far, the best advice for cost management I guess is to buy good student grade or better, your basic palette in large size, plus a medium size transparent zinc white and a shock black, and optionally a selection of bright colors in small tubes. On top of that are various medium and additives for substrate, blends, layers (Parrish), and top coats. Sometimes crossing over into varnishes and resins. Some of this is yours - rsvp?
Thank you for your generosity. Your videos are awesome! I want to use your technic, the only thing that bothers me is the mineral spirit and turps in the paint (or in the slow dry medium) my studio is not very well ventilated, and I would like to paint with no solvents at all. I wonder if it is possible to for example to just use paint straight from the tube, that is sparingly thinned with walnut oil and poppy seed oil, instead of the slow dry medium?
Thank you for sharing your wonderful experience and inspiring video. I bought five of the Geneva oil colors and found them brilliant. Please can you let me know what is their shelf life? I have been very
Mark, I want to ask a question. What should artists who paint with acrylic paint use as a brush dip? An oily dip is not suitable. What would you recommend in this regard?
When i mix powder after its drying, it behave like a plaster and become powdery and some drops down. Please advise me. What do I do wrong and what is the proportion. In some occasion when I do mix with Lensed oil, it takes weeks to dry. Please advise me. Thanks😊
Thank you very much for this video. I am in love with oil paint but also an asthmatic, so i thought i could not risk to paint with oil. After watching your video i now know that i just need to be carefull with my mixing media. How to do u think about watersoluable oil paints ? Greetings
You mentioned Clove Leaf Oil as a drying agent. Is this something that can be purchased from an art supply store, or are you referring to the essential oil?
+Katharine Miele Clove leaf oil, as well as clove bud oil are drying retardants , and yes they are essential oils - which will evaporate given enough time. It can be purchased online or through health food stores - it is also used for aroma therapy because many find the smell to be pleasant.
+Katharine Miele yes i used other things but got tired of using chemicals. I love the smell of clove oil too, you don't need much. I think a small bottle is around ten dollars?
+scott hague ok great. I currently use galkyd almost exlusively. so i am curious if you have used that before. I like galkyd because of the flattening and quick drying qualities. how would galkyd compare to clove leaf oil - if you haven't tried galkyd it's basically a hybrid of stand oil and liquin. thanks!
Thanks for this video. I look forward to trying Geneva Paint. I have dry pigment from long ago. I just added Liquin (I don't use anymore) and paintings from that time look great. No cracking and color is strong. Would it be ok to make a paste with the dry pigment (I have a regular not glass mortar and pestle) and refined linseed oil and then add your medium from your recipe to get good leveling consistency. Thanks!
Oil paintings are beautiful, oil paints have vibrant colours and wonderful texture. Still, I simply can't get over the smell, and the fact that it takes so long to dry. Well, I paint byzantine icons using egg tempera- so I guess that explains why I'm not really used to paints that don't dry instantly. I also like acrylics when I paint on canvas- they dry fast and imitate the texture of oil paints... Still the end result is never as shiny and artistic as if it were painted with oils...
+chavruta2000 one, unless I get a deadline mix up and have to stop one to finish another in time or something. But I know a lot of artists who do work on multiple paintings at the same time.
Is there any information which brands use additives in their artists’ oil color series by percentages? I think everyone deserves to know what they get when they buy a high quality and expensive paint. Major producers should give the necessary information about their products’ ingredient and the percentages. Personally I would not prefer a brand that uses additives more than 5% of its color’s.
Hi Noel. I took this from the Winsor & Newton Liquin Safety Data Sheet: "Not regarded as a health or environmental hazard under the Consumer Chemicals and Containers Regulations (CCCR) 2001". You never need to touch it with direct skin contact, even though it would not affect the skin on contact. I alone work in a ventilated space, but even without much ventilation, I never had problems with the Liquin smell, because it is very weak and generally you don't need more than half a teaspoon per session. I think it's a good, well tested and safe medium for health and the health of the painting in time.
@@stevensegal5958 the smell of liquin dries out the nasal passages, provides an excellent artistic result but the cobalt that it contains is harmful in the long run
I'm crazy about using your paint. i'm even using it on murals I've been doing. I have clients that order paintings but they usually don't want to wait months for it to dry and mail. Have you heard of any kind of mailing boxes that allow for the mailing of a painting while it's still not completely dry?
+scott hague Fat over lean is a bit tough to practice perfectly. I would simply add a few drops of refined linseed oil to your 5 colors. Maybe a bit more to your burnt umber as it dries the fastest (over the long term especially once the clove oil evaporates out). One of the biggest issues with practicing good fat over lean, is that if you happen to decide to paint an area dark that was previously painted with a paint mixture that had zero burnt umber (or Geneva black which also contains bu) in it. Then you will likely get cracking down the road as the undercoat is a faster drying color than the top coat which has no bu in it. If you look at the paintings in my last Q&A Episode ua-cam.com/video/wEG0Pdx_DjY/v-deo.html , you will see all kinds of cracking, especially in the dark areas. This is likely a result of reworking areas of the canvas and there are inevitably spots where cracking will develop. I think it is all part of oil painting and always has been. But adding a few drops of oil to upper layers will help. If you paint wet in wet as I do 90% of the time, all this is a non-issue. Thank you for your question and glad you like the Geneva Paints!
+scott hague I have not heard of a box that allows you to ship wet paintings. The best thing is to keep your painting in a very warm spot. It will dry much faster that way.
I recently bought some hi-bright oils for my miniatures. What a giant waste of money! I don't know what they put in these Chinese paints but if you are interested in painting with a substance that manages to be both sticky on the brush and slippery on the surface than these paints are what you are looking for (sarcasm).
I'm sure I speak for everyone when I say how helpful these videos are. Thank you Mark for doing these.
You have everyone's support
On this topic, I think it's interesting that the most common filler for student-grade paint is Calcium Carbonate, which was a component of Rembrandt's medium. He used Calcium Carbonate + Sun-Thickened Linseed Oil, forming a thick white past, that he mixed with his paints to give his paintings that thick/sticky texture.
Mark, your information is so good and you are so generous in sharing it. Thank you. I've purchased your courses and they are excellent. You are a gift and treasure to the art community. May the Holy One of all creation continue to bless you and your work.
Thank you.
In addition to the Ralph Mayer book, there are two other excellent ones. "The Materials of the Artist & Their Use in Painting " by Max Doerner, and "The Painter's Methods and Materials" by A.P. Laurie.
Ay thanks for the suggestions!
I want to thank you again for all your videos. You have helped and inspired me more than any class I've taken, or other videos I've watched. I have really fallen in love with painting, thanks in large part to you.
!Sparkles! I’ve asked other artists about what they are and _never_ gotten an explanation - until now. Great info!
I just found your channel and you cover all areas very well. Anything I need to know seems to be right here. I have to say that you speak very well, not too fast and NOT too slow, which makes for a great teacher! I will be watching most of these more than once. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, very generous of you.
Thx Mark! I love the Geneva paints and have done several palette knife painting using them! Highly recommended!
The paint mill also crushes the grains of pigment into smaller grains. Some pigments are like sand. Grains are big. Adding oil does not have to make the film weaker. lacquered chests that are hundreds of years does not have any cracks.
Ha! I have heard you mention the Mayer book before. I have had that book since art school days - a gazillion years ago! Loved it. Back then it was a tremendous resource! It still sits on my shelf although as my painting days waned - I did not open it for many years. It must have helped, cuz none of my old paintings are faded, cracked or anything bad! My copy is the Third Edition ( pretty old).
Im glad you explain these things because I paint but don't know much about paints.
The thing about siblings and jealousy is real. Our son was an 'only' until our daughter came along when he was eight. He was extremely jealous. It was dreadful and impossible to make him understand that love is not finite. Thankfully they both grew up to become adults who love each other, although I'm sure if he was honest he'd tell you he always felt we loved him less. It was of course not true at all. Frightening to think if he'd been a different kid. . . . I like Troy Roberts' approach to people. Kind and empathetic.
Very informative as always, I learn heaps from your videos
Great informative video as always. I truly enjoy your videos.
Thank you Mark, I'm always happy to learn more about oil paint. I will try your geneva when it will be avalaible in Belgium ;)
I was hoping you'd tell more information about the different major types of additives and how they effect paint.
Wish you were my art teacher when I were in highschool....
I really loved art but the passion died as the class was quite frustrating and boring😅
First off, dittos!
So oils are a reach for me right now (and I am reaching) but I have to concentrate on acrylics for clothing uses. I have had some exposure to classical art, and have been trying to hack an education.
Other than the speed of production and material flexibility of heat set acrylic media, and a whole bunch of spin-off techniques that are worlds of their own, there is a solid classical overlap.
What I am missing is an equally authoritative expert source about acrylic paints. So far, the best advice for cost management I guess is to buy good student grade or better, your basic palette in large size, plus a medium size transparent zinc white and a shock black, and optionally a selection of bright colors in small tubes. On top of that are various medium and additives for substrate, blends, layers (Parrish), and top coats. Sometimes crossing over into varnishes and resins.
Some of this is yours - rsvp?
Thank you for your generosity. Your videos are awesome! I want to use your technic, the only thing that bothers me is the mineral spirit and turps in the paint (or in the slow dry medium) my studio is not very well ventilated, and I would like to paint with no solvents at all. I wonder if it is possible to for example to just use paint straight from the tube, that is sparingly thinned with walnut oil and poppy seed oil, instead of the slow dry medium?
So fascinating....and i am just a guitar player.....
Thanx for upload
Thank you for sharing your wonderful experience and inspiring video. I bought five of the Geneva oil colors and found them brilliant. Please can you let me know what is their shelf life? I have been very
Excellent Info, you broke it all down really well Mark, thanks very much.
Lead white and hand ground pigments and a dying oil.
Mark, I want to ask a question. What should artists who paint with acrylic paint use as a brush dip? An oily dip is not suitable. What would you recommend in this regard?
I love it
what is the difference between fine oil and extra fine oil paint
So what additives do you add to your paint then?
Excellent video! Very informative. Thank you for your time and wisdom.
There are some wonderful comments below and I can't say more than ditto, ditto, for me. Thanks Mark.
When i mix powder after its drying, it behave like a plaster and become powdery and some drops down. Please advise me. What do I do wrong and what is the proportion. In some occasion when I do mix with Lensed oil, it takes weeks to dry.
Please advise me. Thanks😊
Required viewing by every artist. I still have tubes I bought twenty years ago when I didn’t know how to mix paint.
Thank you very much for this video. I am in love with oil paint but also an asthmatic, so i thought i could not risk to paint with oil. After watching your video i now know that i just need to be carefull with my mixing media. How to do u think about watersoluable oil paints ? Greetings
You mentioned Clove Leaf Oil as a drying agent. Is this something that can be purchased from an art supply store, or are you referring to the essential oil?
+Katharine Miele Clove leaf oil, as well as clove bud oil are drying retardants , and yes they are essential oils - which will evaporate given enough time. It can be purchased online or through health food stores - it is also used for aroma therapy because many find the smell to be pleasant.
+Katharine Miele I get mine at whole Foods
+scott hague oh! How much do you pay for it? Did you use other quick dry mediums before transitioning to the natural alternative?
+Katharine Miele yes i used other things but got tired of using chemicals. I love the smell of clove oil too, you don't need much. I think a small bottle is around ten dollars?
+scott hague ok great. I currently use galkyd almost exlusively. so i am curious if you have used that before. I like galkyd because of the flattening and quick drying qualities. how would galkyd compare to clove leaf oil - if you haven't tried galkyd it's basically a hybrid of stand oil and liquin. thanks!
Thanks for this video. I look forward to trying Geneva Paint. I have dry pigment from long ago. I just added Liquin (I don't use anymore) and paintings from that time look great. No cracking and color is strong. Would it be ok to make a paste with the dry pigment (I have a regular not glass mortar and pestle) and refined linseed oil and then add your medium from your recipe to get good leveling consistency. Thanks!
Sir , for mix oil paints which meduiam that you have use? Is it leanseed oil, or terpintine oil?
Oil paintings are beautiful, oil paints have vibrant colours and wonderful texture. Still, I simply can't get over the smell, and the fact that it takes so long to dry.
Well, I paint byzantine icons using egg tempera- so I guess that explains why I'm not really used to paints that don't dry instantly.
I also like acrylics when I paint on canvas- they dry fast and imitate the texture of oil paints... Still the end result is never as shiny and artistic as if it were painted with oils...
Very educative, thanks a lot.
oil colour me kaun kaun se oill Mila sakte hai please give me a video tomorrow
so I need to mix in solvent to make my own paint? Can I just use pigment + linseed oil?
no, yes
How do you get or buy pigment?
Thank you for this video!
how many paintings do you work on at a time?
+chavruta2000 one, unless I get a deadline mix up and have to stop one to finish another in time or something. But I know a lot of artists who do work on multiple paintings at the same time.
Thanks
Is there any information which brands use additives in their artists’ oil color series by percentages? I think everyone deserves to know what they get when they buy a high quality and expensive paint. Major producers should give the necessary information about their products’ ingredient and the percentages.
Personally I would not prefer a brand that uses additives more than 5% of its color’s.
Where can I by a book of Raupf Meyer
Thanks a Lot! Sir..
Thank u 😘😘😘😘😘
Very nice! Keep it up!
did he mention SOAD in the vid??
anywhere in europe, i can buy geneva oilpaint
Yes, from almost everywhere in Europe.
Good videos
really very good and useful lessons thank u .i pray god to live long with good health happy new year reg;raamar
artist india
Wish you were my friend :)
Is liquin toxic? is it, exist some healthy alternative?
Yes
Hi Noel. I took this from the Winsor & Newton Liquin Safety Data Sheet: "Not regarded as a health or environmental hazard under the Consumer Chemicals and Containers Regulations (CCCR) 2001".
You never need to touch it with direct skin contact, even though it would not affect the skin on contact. I alone work in a ventilated space, but even without much ventilation, I never had problems with the Liquin smell, because it is very weak and generally you don't need more than half a teaspoon per session. I think it's a good, well tested and safe medium for health and the health of the painting in time.
It will darken your oil paintings to an alarming degree. Use with caution.
@@stevensegal5958
the smell of liquin dries out the nasal passages, provides an excellent artistic result but the cobalt that it contains is harmful in the long run
usa a small fan to blow air to when you sit and its no problem . Jus a tiny amount of air moving
I'm crazy about using your paint. i'm even using it on murals I've been doing. I have clients that order paintings but they usually don't want to wait months for it to dry and mail. Have you heard of any kind of mailing boxes that allow for the mailing of a painting while it's still not completely dry?
+scott hague Fat over lean is a bit tough to practice perfectly. I would simply add a few drops of refined linseed oil to your 5 colors. Maybe a bit more to your burnt umber as it dries the fastest (over the long term especially once the clove oil evaporates out). One of the biggest issues with practicing good fat over lean, is that if you happen to decide to paint an area dark that was previously painted with a paint mixture that had zero burnt umber (or Geneva black which also contains bu) in it. Then you will likely get cracking down the road as the undercoat is a faster drying color than the top coat which has no bu in it. If you look at the paintings in my last Q&A Episode ua-cam.com/video/wEG0Pdx_DjY/v-deo.html , you will see all kinds of cracking, especially in the dark areas. This is likely a result of reworking areas of the canvas and there are inevitably spots where cracking will develop. I think it is all part of oil painting and always has been. But adding a few drops of oil to upper layers will help. If you paint wet in wet as I do 90% of the time, all this is a non-issue. Thank you for your question and glad you like the Geneva Paints!
+scott hague I have not heard of a box that allows you to ship wet paintings. The best thing is to keep your painting in a very warm spot. It will dry much faster that way.
Draw Mix Paint a
Interesting
καταπληκτικός δάσκαλος,πολύ μεταδοτικός.
emotionless but great.
whats he supposed to get emotional about?
linseed oil?
I recently bought some hi-bright oils for my miniatures. What a giant waste of money! I don't know what they put in these Chinese paints but if you are interested in painting with a substance that manages to be both sticky on the brush and slippery on the surface than these paints are what you are looking for (sarcasm).
boaring
Time wast taking
👎1
The oil colors you can buy from draw mix paint aka genevafineart smells sooo bad and its terrible to paint with. DON'T BUY THEM.
he is little annoying
You are too