Thanks for posting this - I've had to repair a pinhole crack (about 5mm) on an aluminium radiator. I sealed internally with K-seal which stopped the flow of steam and so on, so that made for an internal seal. Then, on pinpointing the crack location (which was on the top of the radiator as in your case) then followed with a JB weld outer seal. This has worked 100% - the difference being that I cleaned the surfaces with isopropyl alcohol before application, and scuffed them lightly with sandpaper. The performance in my case has returned to normal, with no coolant leaks of any kind. Has held for more than a year, and is in fine condition. Have a new radiator coming next month, which I'll put in myself, its a weekend's work to do.
i may add one not so minor point. because these are pressure cracks it is advisable to drill a small hole on either end of the crack. this does 2 things it stress reliefs the plastic from the natural tendencies of the crack to extend it self. secondly it adds a small anchor point for the epoxy to ceate a thru rivet in the round terminus at either end of the crack. i can assure you the stress relief alone is the real benefit of drilling both ends of any crack , no matter what the material . im willing to bet its the lower end of the crack that a stress relief drilling would have helped hold, altho i will agree it is by its nature a patch, so the benefits of being stuck completely and managing a leak to the point where you can still drive have me adding a little kit as you described to my desert box in my truck
step 1 pull the radiator out step 2 clean the spot where the crack is step 3 take some 80 grit sand paper an scuff up the area around the crack step 4 clean with brake cleaner step 5 dry the area around the crack step 6 mix the jb weld 50/50 mix. the mix should be a jet black step 7 start with a good coat starting form the crack then out around the crack step 8 let it cure for 4 hours step 9 with some fine sand paper sand the jb weld step 10 ad a 2nd coat start outward to inward of the crack . these step will last you a very long time . i have a chevy truck with a 454 an still going strong after 15 years :)
I tried this stuff, and so far so good. I know I will need a new radiator soon. My break was on top and easy to get to. I have a dremel engraver, which did a great job to V out the crack, and went about 1/4" beyond each end of the crack. Thanks for the video, it really helped, 👍!
Just got my repair kit for my Jeep and it’s on the same exact spot as this.. I’ll definitely get a new radiator but this will do for now. Thanks for the video
i fixed a crack in my BMW 330ci radiator with JB Weld - took a few shots but I now have a fantastic formula I recommend: 1. Get your engine warm and examine where the leak is. 2. Release the pressure and drain the coolant while it is still warm/mildly hot, but not too hot that when you seal the cooling system, it isn't blowing steam or air out of the hole you're trying to fix. 3. Once it isn't spitting but still warm - THEN apply the JB Weld and leave it for a few hours. Applyig it while the tank is still hot causes the glue to be drawn into the hole, caused by the internal vacuum when the hot air cools and returns from its exanded state. Exactly the same as when you fill an airtight tupperware with hot food and seal the lid while your food is still hot. By the time it's closed there's a vacuum inside ;)
For plastic radiator leak, forget everything. Use Weicon Aqua repair stick. Made for plastic radiators. Used it n satisfied. Takes upto 120 C (250 F). The extra I have I will use for my plumbing
The JB weld saved my butt on the trail. But like you I ended up buying a new radiator. Even if it had held I would of put the new one in. Out her in the SW running in the heat I would constantly worry about it giving way. As usual awesome video. Cant wait for the video on the radiator swap.
Rookie mistake and may help someone down the line: This stuff sets FAST. I was kneading the product for 30 seconds, felt it getting warm so I started opening the pack and by the time I started applying it the pack was too hot to handle and had already set before i even got the product out. I'm using just standard JB weld since the crack is quite small and hopefully this will hold until I can get a new plastic tank.
Appreciate your efforts here bro, thanks for uploading despite it not going to plan for you. Personally i think DIY videos like this are far more educational. The value is in learning from others mistakes and all the unexpected little things to watch out for and your content was packed with useful information. There's hundreds of videos that show you how to do this procedure that all go perfectly as planned and the viewer learns precisely ZERO. I'd much prefer to watch DIY videos like yours mate, far more useful. Cheers
Just finished mine up letting it dry now, that epoxy gets hot quick and I tried to brush on then add the fiber glass ( yes I brushed in the fiberglass before applied, be quick thou)and pour the rest of the epoxy on the fiberglass, I used the putty stuff first and it started leaking again. I went longer and taller than the actual split. Thank you for the video it was really good to have the help
Well, it’s cured and looks like I was trying to hard to get it on the radiator and the fiberglass, it’s bubbling up at the top. I should have put it over the putty , because it was only bubbling from the sides. I’m going to go grab another kit and add it on my dinner break this afternoon. You’re kit is a very good suggestion, I know that this not a permanent fix, but I’m on a budget and I want to replace my radiator with a good quality one so I need the fix to make it a few more paydays. I will let you know in the morning how the second try goes.
No I’m sorry it didn’t, it did slow it down to where I can address it every 3 days instead of every day, but it might work different for you. It’s definitely something that I now keep in my emergency kit when I go to the woods
I was in mexico n scraped a hole in my oil pan, next to the plug. I was dripping oil badly after that nasty bump but luckily i was next to a shit-small hardware store with a cheap, 2-part putty. It stopped the oily leak immediately, formed to the edge of the plug without binding it, and lasted YEARS without a problem. I drove it thru the summer sonoran desert multi times! Wish i could find it again.
I too have done this before but wasn’t prepared for how hot it really got and it stuck to my hands and I had to use gasoline to get it off I also did not mix the material properly and it lasted only a few days so make sure make sure you mix it very very thoroughly Also you’re supposed to drain out the radiator tank before doing this just to make sure you get any old dirty radiator fluid out then when it’s dry add your new coolant
I use the quick set JB weld. If it's just a small seeping leak at a plastic weld, it works great. Rough up and put two generous layers, letting first dry.
Amazing video!! You explained everything perfectly, and you are so not an "idiot", lol. Thank you so much for this, and wow, that chicken looks so darn good!!
jb welded mine years ago (2-3) and have to redo it but... this time I am going to use the repair kit instead of just the weld... I think it is well worth the repair as it is way cheaper than a (plastic/nylon) radiator and it will last as long as the life of the beater car I have
jb weld worked well for me once, but eventually it cracked again. Took a while, so i decided to cut most of it off and try again. It seemed to last about the same few months, then did a 3rd time but then it only lasted a few days. Since the crack is bigger now (had to pick out the crack every time b4) i decided to use some fiberglass this time to hold the crack from spreading. Hope it works.
Cracked my Volvo s60 radiator on the plastic part also. Going to try this this weekend. Also it's not so much the cost of the radiator it's the process of taking it out which sucks on that vehicle...
Dude great video. Especially the part that shows your failure. I do believe if you were not so intent on making a video your effort would have been successful. I used dye to isolate my leak. A UA-cam video informed me how to find coolant leaks. The bright orange fluorescent dye showed me my hair line defect. Well better repair next time. I really get close with my zoom on my phone to inspect things my eyes alone cant see. I'm going to invest in one of those telescopic micro lights soon Wow a JB Weld radiator repair kit. That was not available 4 years ago when my 6 month old radiator sprung a leak along a crease that connected to a mount crease. My patch peeled and leaked after 2 years now in the 100° Texas heat. Maybe the fiberglass would have made a better patch. So, I am not going to remove the part of patch that is working. I am going to patch the failed part of the patch. I hope it hold for another 2 years
I use the sticky dry wall mesh tape. It sticks to your radiator better then there's, then apply a few thin coats of repair weld. I then will buy some regular job weld steel weld and apply several thick coats on top of that. It will last awhile but you have to check it. Eventually you will need a new radiator cause it will crack others places. But it will get you through until you have the money or time to replace with new.
I used jb marine grade weld and it worked great left it set for around 20 hrs before filling radiator driven it the last week around 300 miles no leaks yet for anyone that was wondering if this really works
High heat jb weld is not designed to resist the chemicals in coolant and it will come right through in a day of driving if not less. This is using the high heat steel reinforced one. I would recommend the water weld over that but this compound is designed to resist the coolant
The water-resistant JB weld is is resistant to chemicals are oil and gasoline , a combination of both JB weld hi heat , you can also try melting the plastic back together with a soldering iron , melting New plastic into the cracks
@@StephenHaviland use a soldering iron melting the plastic back together water-resistant JB well is chemical resistant use in combination, no fiberglass kit apply directly on surface area for correct is located a little at a time
I put flex glue on my crack recently.. And gasket maker. Hopefully trying this before replacement D: Gonna end up getting new radiator eventually but cant do right now so anything to hold it off lol
Bro how did it hold up? Im just about to buy the stuff and want to know did it hold up too the heat? I first used parent plastic powder from the radiator and dremeled and added the powder too the crack and used loctite to activate it but i eventually started leaking so is this stuff better? plus my crack across the plastic face is like 7 inches long can i cut the mesh in half to make the gap? the crack is along a flat surface no bends or angles luckily?
I had patched my radiator 2 years ago with just JB Weld and it works for 2 years and now it is leaking again same place. I am going to give this a try, my mechanic said $400 part and labor. :( I am going to give this a try first. I have a feeling it might work for me since mine has a hair line less than 2 inches.
I’m putting this on my radiator. It’s cracked down the middle of the plastic part. I just need a temporary fix until I get paid next week for I could replace the entire thing
D&E In The Garage it’s still leaking but not as much as it was. Before I had to refill the entire thing with 2 and half gallons of water now I don’t even have put 1. It has help these last few days bringing my truck to the shop tomorrow and buying a new radiator Thursday. I don’t recommend it as a permanent fix but it is s good temporary repair until you get it fixed. I’m very impressed with it
Bought this product yesterday, and I followed the instructions to the T. This Junk does not work, I let it cure over 24 hours turn my car on this morning and it’s leaking like I never applied it. I just bought a new radiator. Ty anyways
Do I have to drain the coolant from the radiator cause I know exactly where the the minor crack is and it’s barely leaking. And do I have to use the fiberglass cloth?
such a weird coincidence today my moms radiator in her jeep liberty cracked in the same spot today and was just looking to see others have patch theirs. released just in time
Same have a 03 jeep liberty i put some K Seal in it & stop but 2 days later just coming out the same little whole, so i just purchased JB Weld and put it on it hopefully it works
You should have let the epoxy cure for longer. Also I've had great results using the water weld putty over the straight JB weld or the repair kit, and I imagine that might be easier to manage on a crack like this. I would definitely say don't buy that stupid kit though, seems like a lot of money for some 4 dollar epoxy. Worked fine on my 81 accord with a dual slot radiator. Didn't want to replace it because they are so hard to find, and the leak was pretty stupidly minor. Overall, good video. I'd give it a full 3-5 hours to cure.
Dont waste your time on high jeat jb weld, plastic weld, really any of those. The only one I has used with some success is Water Weld. It's worked for me on metal and plastic.
@@DEInTheGarage ok. I just ordered a new radiator but I'm gonna try the jb weld for the helluva it. 5 bucks from walmart and i got some fiberglass cloth. My leak actually sprayed on one of my ignition coils and made it misfire!. Crazy
Great video as usual. I love to see this kinds of things tested out. I generally wouldn't trust this kind of repair as a permanent solution, especially for something as critical as a radiator. You hit the nail on the head though with an emergency remote repair kit. Some of that stuff is going into my bag for sure. With the addition of the fiberglass, I bet you could temporally patch a hole in an oil pan or diff cover if you had to on the trail. Unrelated question, the two hooks on your bench at the beginning of the video got me thinking as they look like the a designed pointing up. I just put factory tow hooks on my WJ which point down and I worry about a snatch strap coming off during a multiple pull recovery. Any advice? The metal clips intended to help this issue are not made for the mounting hole orientation of WJ hooks. Tape or zip ties maybe?
Those hooks are for a WK Grand Cherokee or XK Commander. I have personally had the issue you are describing with WJ hooks which point down. I bet you could make your own tabs out of some light gauge metal from the hardware store. Perhaps I will give that a try and make a video. In reality, WJ hooks are only going to allow the rope to call off when the rope goes slack, so once you start pulling you should be fine. I know that used that design because of how the bumper is, but it is clearly a design flaw
Is that a common WJ problem??? I wonder if over tightening that mounting bolt causes cracks in that area of the radiator for many WJ owners. You may have had a better seal if the radiator was out, but then again if your pulling it, might as well just put a new one in. Maybe you can reinforce the new radiator in that area prior to the install. Either way the JB weld was definitely worth a shot, and we all learn from your trials. Excellent job and Enjoy that chicken!
It is not a common WJ issue. This WJ was sitting for a long time and when I got it home this rad leak was there. Not sure if coll had something to do with it or what. New rad will be in this weekend and then I can introduce the new Jeep to the world
They rent Cooling system pressure test kits at most auto parts stores please don't warm up your car to find the leak if it ruptures she could get burned badly! alternatively and a lot cheaper Fill the cooling system with water Rinse off the radiator opening and blow into it with your mouth and you can probably find the leak!!!
i would suggest a new radiator saves alot down the road does not work with all situations ....bite the bullet and buy a radiator ....an aftermarket radiator is better than this ...
I used JB WELD once B4 and after about 45 minutes the leak was back.. simply because once the radiator Hits the temp of 240/260 it is super hot and the JB WELD let go. Then I had the problem back again.. so I then took my Dremel and went along the crack and made a gully and used the Dremel along each side of the crack and I had two cracks then I took a soldier gun and heated up the plastic on the radiator then I took ZIP TIES yes zip ties and melted them in and along the crack and it held up for the next 4 yrs then t sold it and the guy who bought it had it for 3 yrs then he moved away... But my point is being that it's plastic as the zip ties are and they are a POLY MATERIAL AS IS THE RADIATOR A POLY PLASTIC... BUT YOU MUST HEAT THE PLASTIC ON THE RADIATOR FIRST THEN USE THE ZIP TIES... REMEMBER AFTER THE DREMEL CLEAN IT WITH BRAKE CLEAN THEN HEAT THE RADIATOR THEN MELT THE TIES.
your steam could be the old coolant residual burning off.....BUT point being......I would have put a can of Bars leak in as a sealer to do the final since its just a minor issue as opposed to a pisser. Its a stress crack due to the upper hose being subject to the motor vibration and shifting.....its common for tanks to fail on the upper hose area because the material is not thick enough....designed obsolescence....thank the engineers and accountants. I you read and notice, most auto companies recommend using a sealer additive to the coolant when doing a system repair...hence Bars leak or some Prestone Sealer.>>>>>>>>>>>>>I have had issues with the plastic tanks around the transmission cooler lines or the dummy bungs in the sides of the tanks......and sealer works wonders just about forever. The issue with coolant is that you should be using distilled water free from minerals as tap water is full of minerals and most likely calcium.....which over time mineralizes on the metal passages in the radiator and heater core clogging the flow up.........much the same way as it does in home heater systems that use hot water as in base board heating......the tubes get calcified and clogged up reducing the efficiency over time.>>>>>>>>I'm old school where when the radiators were brass tanks.....you could just stuff bondo into the leak and seal it forever.......or you could solder the brass. Plastic sucks.....its nylon
39 dollars here in australia. we getting ripped off bro I bought a generic radiator off ebay and being chinese it didn't install well so back to crack repair with the old radiator. Good luck getting a replacement radiator guys that fit.
Mister Memo well it was just a hairline crack. Now that applied all that epoxy is worst🤦♀️ I had to buy a new radiator last nite which I will install myself later on.
Probably would work better if the crack isnt on the side like yours. If the cracks on top maybe itd work better since the jb weld will be seeping into the crack
Has anybody ever used J-B weld high temp to repair radiator cracked before I have some of that laying around hoping that it will work? Liberty tried using radiator weld epoxy the stuff that squirts out of the tube and it does not work as soon as the coolant gets in contact with that stuff it starts to break down so don't go about that route!
Yup. WAY too fast and the instructions mention nothing about this. I was kneading and cutting the nylon about to apply right as it got super hot and then rock hard.
I would have gone through the hassle to remove the radiator, tape off the areas that I didn’t want to get the JB Weld on, and make it work the first time. I have a very small leak (1/8” on the top of my radiator). I’m thinking this would be overkill ....
WTF? only costs you $12 ??? It's $37 for the exact same kit here in Australia. OK it's made in the usa plus exchange rate difference but even so jm clearly getting ripped off here 😢
You should have taken the radiator out of the vehicle. To patch it thoroughly. You can do a much better job when nothing is in your way. You have a much better View. And you can see what you're doing
wish he would have pressure tested the radiator to show where the radiator was leaking. He might have had success if he had pulled the radiator to make the repairs.
![Best Radiator Stop Leaks in 2024 [Top 5 Expert Picks]](/img/n.gif)
Thanks for posting this - I've had to repair a pinhole crack (about 5mm) on an aluminium radiator. I sealed internally with K-seal which stopped the flow of steam and so on, so that made for an internal seal. Then, on pinpointing the crack location (which was on the top of the radiator as in your case) then followed with a JB weld outer seal. This has worked 100% - the difference being that I cleaned the surfaces with isopropyl alcohol before application, and scuffed them lightly with sandpaper. The performance in my case has returned to normal, with no coolant leaks of any kind. Has held for more than a year, and is in fine condition. Have a new radiator coming next month, which I'll put in myself, its a weekend's work to do.
i may add one not so minor point. because these are pressure cracks it is advisable to drill a small hole on either end of the crack. this does 2 things it stress reliefs the plastic from the natural tendencies of the crack to extend it self. secondly it adds a small anchor point for the epoxy to ceate a thru rivet in the round terminus at either end of the crack. i can assure you the stress relief alone is the real benefit of drilling both ends of any crack , no matter what the material . im willing to bet its the lower end of the crack that a stress relief drilling would have helped hold, altho i will agree it is by its nature a patch, so the benefits of being stuck completely and managing a leak to the point where you can still drive have me adding a little kit as you described to my desert box in my truck
Wish i would of seen this comment before I did mine that makes alot of sense
An excellent point, indeed.
step 1 pull the radiator out
step 2 clean the spot where the crack is
step 3 take some 80 grit sand paper an scuff up the area around the crack
step 4 clean with brake cleaner
step 5 dry the area around the crack
step 6 mix the jb weld 50/50 mix. the mix should be a jet black
step 7 start with a good coat starting form the crack then out around the crack
step 8 let it cure for 4 hours
step 9 with some fine sand paper sand the jb weld
step 10 ad a 2nd coat start outward to inward of the crack .
these step will last you a very long time . i have a chevy truck with a 454 an still going strong after 15 years :)
What jb weld did you use I have a 454 too
@@michaelturbes7001 just reg jb weld . don''t use the quick weld
I will be trying it out just like u said this week in that order YessZziirr I do love me sum JB Weld fix a lot of thgs with it threw the years
step 10 mAx no sNs, I thought U said U ALREADY covered the whole crack?😒
This comment is very much appreciated
I tried this stuff, and so far so good. I know I will need a new radiator soon. My break was on top and easy to get to. I have a dremel engraver, which did a great job to V out the crack, and went about 1/4" beyond each end of the crack. Thanks for the video, it really helped, 👍!
Just got my repair kit for my Jeep and it’s on the same exact spot as this.. I’ll definitely get a new radiator but this will do for now. Thanks for the video
i fixed a crack in my BMW 330ci radiator with JB Weld - took a few shots but I now have a fantastic formula I recommend:
1. Get your engine warm and examine where the leak is.
2. Release the pressure and drain the coolant while it is still warm/mildly hot, but not too hot that when you seal the cooling system, it isn't blowing steam or air out of the hole you're trying to fix.
3. Once it isn't spitting but still warm - THEN apply the JB Weld and leave it for a few hours.
Applyig it while the tank is still hot causes the glue to be drawn into the hole, caused by the internal vacuum when the hot air cools and returns from its exanded state.
Exactly the same as when you fill an airtight tupperware with hot food and seal the lid while your food is still hot. By the time it's closed there's a vacuum inside ;)
Hey, thanks for sharing this! I think this method sounds like the best way to do it
I'm gonna try it like that. Thanks
@The Count same question 🤔
This sounds excellent
nothing is ever wasted education is priceless you learned fine job
This comment needs more likes in a multitude of videos.
You save money but the most valuable part is the education that you get by repairing your own equipment
Big facts
Repaird my f250 Diesel radiator with JB help, holding strong after a month so far
For plastic radiator leak, forget everything. Use Weicon Aqua repair stick. Made for plastic radiators. Used it n satisfied. Takes upto 120 C (250 F). The extra I have I will use for my plumbing
The JB weld saved my butt on the trail. But like you I ended up buying a new radiator. Even if it had held I would of put the new one in. Out her in the SW running in the heat I would constantly worry about it giving way. As usual awesome video. Cant wait for the video on the radiator swap.
Thanks for the video. I bought the kit already, so I'm going to run with it and hope for the best until the new radiator gets here.
Thanks a bunch giving it a shot, my crack is on the top in a spot on the top where it's just a flat line.
I have a crack on top of my radiator also, so did you have to drain tour radiator fluid out?
Thank you. I believe it was not a waste.
I'm about to do the same thing that you did, if it does not work I will purchase a new radiator also.
Rookie mistake and may help someone down the line: This stuff sets FAST. I was kneading the product for 30 seconds, felt it getting warm so I started opening the pack and by the time I started applying it the pack was too hot to handle and had already set before i even got the product out. I'm using just standard JB weld since the crack is quite small and hopefully this will hold until I can get a new plastic tank.
Appreciate your efforts here bro, thanks for uploading despite it not going to plan for you. Personally i think DIY videos like this are far more educational. The value is in learning from others mistakes and all the unexpected little things to watch out for and your content was packed with useful information. There's hundreds of videos that show you how to do this procedure that all go perfectly as planned and the viewer learns precisely ZERO. I'd much prefer to watch DIY videos like yours mate, far more useful. Cheers
Just finished mine up letting it dry now, that epoxy gets hot quick and I tried to brush on then add the fiber glass ( yes I brushed in the fiberglass before applied, be quick thou)and pour the rest of the epoxy on the fiberglass, I used the putty stuff first and it started leaking again. I went longer and taller than the actual split. Thank you for the video it was really good to have the help
Lets us know how you make out! I was not successful, but I believe this product could work under better circumstances
Well, it’s cured and looks like I was trying to hard to get it on the radiator and the fiberglass, it’s bubbling up at the top. I should have put it over the putty , because it was only bubbling from the sides. I’m going to go grab another kit and add it on my dinner break this afternoon. You’re kit is a very good suggestion, I know that this not a permanent fix, but I’m on a budget and I want to replace my radiator with a good quality one so I need the fix to make it a few more paydays. I will let you know in the morning how the second try goes.
I hear that. Might as well try the quick cheap option before going all in on new parts. Good luck!
@@bspeckter Did it stopped the leak?
No I’m sorry it didn’t, it did slow it down to where I can address it every 3 days instead of every day, but it might work different for you. It’s definitely something that I now keep in my emergency kit when I go to the woods
I was in mexico n scraped a hole in my oil pan, next to the plug. I was dripping oil badly after that nasty bump but luckily i was next to a shit-small hardware store with a cheap, 2-part putty. It stopped the oily leak immediately, formed to the edge of the plug without binding it, and lasted YEARS without a problem. I drove it thru the summer sonoran desert multi times! Wish i could find it again.
What was the putty
I too have done this before but wasn’t prepared for how hot it really got and it stuck to my hands and I had to use gasoline to get it off I also did not mix the material properly and it lasted only a few days so make sure make sure you mix it very very thoroughly Also you’re supposed to drain out the radiator tank before doing this just to make sure you get any old dirty radiator fluid out then when it’s dry add your new coolant
I used The JB Water Weld and it's holding up so far, believe or not! Fast cure time as well.
Even more fun to watch with the Doug Heffernan voice you did!
I use the quick set JB weld. If it's just a small seeping leak at a plastic weld, it works great. Rough up and put two generous layers, letting first dry.
"When I get it under load it squirts out" - I have that same problem
Yikes... this might be my favorite on yet!
🍆💦
@@DEInTheGarage q
🤣 winner
Amazing video!! You explained everything perfectly, and you are so not an "idiot", lol. Thank you so much for this, and wow, that chicken looks so darn good!!
jb welded mine years ago (2-3) and have to redo it but... this time I am going to use the repair kit instead of just the weld... I think it is well worth the repair as it is way cheaper than a (plastic/nylon) radiator and it will last as long as the life of the beater car I have
jb weld worked well for me once, but eventually it cracked again. Took a while, so i decided to cut most of it off and try again. It seemed to last about the same few months, then did a 3rd time but then it only lasted a few days. Since the crack is bigger now (had to pick out the crack every time b4) i decided to use some fiberglass this time to hold the crack from spreading. Hope it works.
thanks for trying, got give it a shot
I tired this on a little crack on my radiator next to the cap. I got a little of the epoxy on my hand is that okay?
Yea you will be fine, but it will likely be with you for a few days. It is harmless though
Cracked my Volvo s60 radiator on the plastic part also. Going to try this this weekend. Also it's not so much the cost of the radiator it's the process of taking it out which sucks on that vehicle...
Agreed! Good luck with it!
Did it hold up
@@mikeyboy1001 Yes. I've put almost 5k on it and its held up fine.
Dude great video. Especially the part that shows your failure. I do believe if you were not so intent on making a video your effort would have been successful. I used dye to isolate my leak. A UA-cam video informed me how to find coolant leaks. The bright orange fluorescent dye showed me my hair line defect. Well better repair next time. I really get close with my zoom on my phone to inspect things my eyes alone cant see. I'm going to invest in one of those telescopic micro lights soon
Wow a JB Weld radiator repair kit.
That was not available 4 years ago when my 6 month old radiator sprung a leak along a crease that connected to a mount crease. My patch peeled and leaked after 2 years now in the 100° Texas heat. Maybe the fiberglass would have made a better patch. So, I am not going to remove the part of patch that is working. I am going to patch the failed part of the patch. I hope it hold for another 2 years
I use the sticky dry wall mesh tape. It sticks to your radiator better then there's, then apply a few thin coats of repair weld. I then will buy some regular job weld steel weld and apply several thick coats on top of that. It will last awhile but you have to check it. Eventually you will need a new radiator cause it will crack others places. But it will get you through until you have the money or time to replace with new.
I have a Crack in the side of mine as well tried taking out the radiator twisted the trans cooler line now I get to deal with that
Good luck!
I used jb marine grade weld and it worked great left it set for around 20 hrs before filling radiator driven it the last week around 300 miles no leaks yet for anyone that was wondering if this really works
High heat jb weld is not designed to resist the chemicals in coolant and it will come right through in a day of driving if not less. This is using the high heat steel reinforced one. I would recommend the water weld over that but this compound is designed to resist the coolant
Nope ate through my weld..
The water-resistant JB weld is is resistant to chemicals are oil and gasoline , a combination of both JB weld hi heat , you can also try melting the plastic back together with a soldering iron , melting New plastic into the cracks
@@StephenHaviland use a soldering iron melting the plastic back together water-resistant JB well is chemical resistant use in combination, no fiberglass kit apply directly on surface area for correct is located a little at a time
By watching I can tell you do not apply that correctly you left the fiberglass mesh off of the J-B weld it was not applied correctly
FYI, Flex seal will not fix a leaky radiator either... Don't ask me how I know... Lol
Hey man... gotta try everything at least once, right?
@@DEInTheGarage yep. I think like you, if it can save me $100 I'm all for it.
I put flex glue on my crack recently.. And gasket maker. Hopefully trying this before replacement D:
Gonna end up getting new radiator eventually but cant do right now so anything to hold it off lol
Bro how did it hold up? Im just about to buy the stuff and want to know did it hold up too the heat? I first used parent plastic powder from the radiator and dremeled and added the powder too the crack and used loctite to activate it but i eventually started leaking so is this stuff better? plus my crack across the plastic face is like 7 inches long can i cut the mesh in half to make the gap? the crack is along a flat surface no bends or angles luckily?
Good man, Great stuff. You help a lot of people 👍🏽
I had patched my radiator 2 years ago with just JB Weld and it works for 2 years and now it is leaking again same place. I am going to give this a try, my mechanic said $400 part and labor. :( I am going to give this a try first. I have a feeling it might work for me since mine has a hair line less than 2 inches.
Thanks, you just saved me $12. Great video also.😊👌
I’m putting this on my radiator. It’s cracked down the middle of the plastic part. I just need a temporary fix until I get paid next week for I could replace the entire thing
Good luck with it! Hope it works for you
D&E In The Garage it’s still leaking but not as much as it was. Before I had to refill the entire thing with 2 and half gallons of water now I don’t even have put 1. It has help these last few days bringing my truck to the shop tomorrow and buying a new radiator Thursday. I don’t recommend it as a permanent fix but it is s good temporary repair until you get it fixed. I’m very impressed with it
Just got the JB Rad kit. I am going to try it and hope it will work to save me the cost and hassles of a new rad. Thanks for the video.
Good luck with it! let us know how it works for you
"I told you" 🤣🤤 great video 👌
Bought this product yesterday, and I followed the instructions to the T. This Junk does not work, I let it cure over 24 hours turn my car on this morning and it’s leaking like I never applied it. I just bought a new radiator. Ty anyways
Does the fiberglass come with the kit?
Yes
next time use windshield urethane adhesive... people say it works on cracked nylon radiator tanks
Do I have to drain the coolant from the radiator cause I know exactly where the the minor crack is and it’s barely leaking. And do I have to use the fiberglass cloth?
Thank you for posting, I have the same kind of crack and its a pain! I just replaced my coolant too.
Lol I just replaced my thermostat and my water pump only to find this crack on the radiator
Thank you. At least u tried. I will also
such a weird coincidence today my moms radiator in her jeep liberty cracked in the same spot today and was just looking to see others have patch theirs. released just in time
Same have a 03 jeep liberty i put some K Seal in it & stop but 2 days later just coming out the same little whole, so i just purchased JB Weld and put it on it hopefully it works
okay mine wont take any radiator fluid at all it was smoking last night where do I find the problem or do you know what the problem might be
Thanks for trying and sharing
Got a 500 Benz that is gonna cost me $800 hopefully this $12 kit will save me a little bit of time to get that money
It is worth the $12 risk in my opinion
Same. Mine on driver's side middle. Steering box is sometimes wet. Hey, darn thing never goes over 208. Downside, not very hot on cold days.
Yea, mine was the same. Heat was fine when I filled it, but the longer I drove it, the lower the level got, the cooler my heat would blow
You should have let the epoxy cure for longer. Also I've had great results using the water weld putty over the straight JB weld or the repair kit, and I imagine that might be easier to manage on a crack like this. I would definitely say don't buy that stupid kit though, seems like a lot of money for some 4 dollar epoxy. Worked fine on my 81 accord with a dual slot radiator. Didn't want to replace it because they are so hard to find, and the leak was pretty stupidly minor.
Overall, good video. I'd give it a full 3-5 hours to cure.
Dont waste your time on high jeat jb weld, plastic weld, really any of those. The only one I has used with some success is Water Weld. It's worked for me on metal and plastic.
Thanks!
Where can I get water weld
You can't win 'em all, but at least you were able to get the oil for the chicken!
Yep! It took a lot of the sting out of failing the rad repair. haha
How long did you let it dry???
Whatever the package said. I do not remember to be honest
@@DEInTheGarage ok. I just ordered a new radiator but I'm gonna try the jb weld for the helluva it. 5 bucks from walmart and i got some fiberglass cloth. My leak actually sprayed on one of my ignition coils and made it misfire!. Crazy
Great video as usual. I love to see this kinds of things tested out. I generally wouldn't trust this kind of repair as a permanent solution, especially for something as critical as a radiator. You hit the nail on the head though with an emergency remote repair kit. Some of that stuff is going into my bag for sure. With the addition of the fiberglass, I bet you could temporally patch a hole in an oil pan or diff cover if you had to on the trail. Unrelated question, the two hooks on your bench at the beginning of the video got me thinking as they look like the a designed pointing up. I just put factory tow hooks on my WJ which point down and I worry about a snatch strap coming off during a multiple pull recovery. Any advice? The metal clips intended to help this issue are not made for the mounting hole orientation of WJ hooks. Tape or zip ties maybe?
Those hooks are for a WK Grand Cherokee or XK Commander. I have personally had the issue you are describing with WJ hooks which point down. I bet you could make your own tabs out of some light gauge metal from the hardware store. Perhaps I will give that a try and make a video. In reality, WJ hooks are only going to allow the rope to call off when the rope goes slack, so once you start pulling you should be fine. I know that used that design because of how the bumper is, but it is clearly a design flaw
Well at least you ate some chicken that looked good!!! Good honest video! Thanks!
Is that a common WJ problem??? I wonder if over tightening that mounting bolt causes cracks in that area of the radiator for many WJ owners. You may have had a better seal if the radiator was out, but then again if your pulling it, might as well just put a new one in. Maybe you can reinforce the new radiator in that area prior to the install. Either way the JB weld was definitely worth a shot, and we all learn from your trials. Excellent job and Enjoy that chicken!
It is not a common WJ issue. This WJ was sitting for a long time and when I got it home this rad leak was there. Not sure if coll had something to do with it or what. New rad will be in this weekend and then I can introduce the new Jeep to the world
@@DEInTheGarage awesome man! Can't wait!
Oh well what the hell at least you tried Doug.Ummmm I can smell that fried chicken from here!! lol...
Adding pepper into the radiator works, I did it a few times, and as the engine heats up, you will see the leak go away
No kidding... I have heard of egg before, but not pepper.
Sharpen them scissors with a meta tool file… it will become your favorite one
why should i use the kit over other jbweld products? they all have the same properties
I'm considering getting this. does anyone know how long these things tend to last?
Thanks for the follow up, I did try it before watching your video, it didn't work either.
You saved me 12$ 💁🏻♂️
They rent Cooling system pressure test kits at most auto parts stores please don't warm up your car to find the leak if it ruptures she could get burned badly! alternatively and a lot cheaper Fill the cooling system with water Rinse off the radiator opening and blow into it with your mouth and you can probably find the leak!!!
Where can you get this stuff from ?
I go it at Napa Auto Parts. Had to call around, but the 3rd one I called had it in stock. if not, then on amazon
@@DEInTheGarage dope thanks bro
i would suggest a new radiator saves alot down the road
does not work with all situations ....bite the bullet and buy a radiator ....an aftermarket radiator is better than this ...
Not for me i’m not that handy. And mechanics get 140$and hour here in Reno so i’m gonna try it On my old. jeep. Lots of jeeps here
Will this work on reserve tank?
Yes, definitely should
I used JB WELD once B4 and after about 45 minutes the leak was back.. simply because once the radiator Hits the temp of 240/260 it is super hot and the JB WELD let go. Then I had the problem back again.. so I then took my Dremel and went along the crack and made a gully and used the Dremel along each side of the crack and I had two cracks then I took a soldier gun and heated up the plastic on the radiator then I took ZIP TIES yes zip ties and melted them in and along the crack and it held up for the next 4 yrs then t sold it and the guy who bought it had it for 3 yrs then he moved away... But my point is being that it's plastic as the zip ties are and they are a POLY MATERIAL AS IS THE RADIATOR A POLY PLASTIC... BUT YOU MUST HEAT THE PLASTIC ON THE RADIATOR FIRST THEN USE THE ZIP TIES... REMEMBER AFTER THE DREMEL CLEAN IT WITH BRAKE CLEAN THEN HEAT THE RADIATOR THEN MELT THE TIES.
TY 4 the video.
your steam could be the old coolant residual burning off.....BUT point being......I would have put a can of Bars leak in as a sealer to do the final since its just a minor issue as opposed to a pisser. Its a stress crack due to the upper hose being subject to the motor vibration and shifting.....its common for tanks to fail on the upper hose area because the material is not thick enough....designed obsolescence....thank the engineers and accountants. I you read and notice, most auto companies recommend using a sealer additive to the coolant when doing a system repair...hence Bars leak or some Prestone Sealer.>>>>>>>>>>>>>I have had issues with the plastic tanks around the transmission cooler lines or the dummy bungs in the sides of the tanks......and sealer works wonders just about forever. The issue with coolant is that you should be using distilled water free from minerals as tap water is full of minerals and most likely calcium.....which over time mineralizes on the metal passages in the radiator and heater core clogging the flow up.........much the same way as it does in home heater systems that use hot water as in base board heating......the tubes get calcified and clogged up reducing the efficiency over time.>>>>>>>>I'm old school where when the radiators were brass tanks.....you could just stuff bondo into the leak and seal it forever.......or you could solder the brass. Plastic sucks.....its nylon
If youre really old fels naptha soap Or was that for gas tanks my dad used it
39 dollars here in australia. we getting ripped off bro I bought a generic radiator off ebay and being chinese it didn't install well so back to crack repair with the old radiator. Good luck getting a replacement radiator guys that fit.
Thanks for sharing, I will be trying this on my Land Cruiser 100 series for a quick repair. 👊🏼
Don’t bother it’s $14.99 down the drain.
Johanna Cruz What would you replace it with if you where out on the trail and needed to get out of a bind? 🤔
Mister Memo well it was just a hairline crack. Now that applied all that epoxy is worst🤦♀️ I had to buy a new radiator last nite which I will install myself later on.
Good luck but yes I was stuck and didn’t managed to stop the leak.
@@goodvibes04281 I hear you tho! It's not the solution for sure. Thanks for watching :)
>same style radiator
>same tools
>similar vehicle
vince mcmahon, falling over backwards
I "knead" you now.
I like to cram my jb weld as well!
Damb Frank this video has you all over it!
"Clean up the area real well and dig into that crack a little bit... make a little "V"" - you are making this too easy!
Woof... Yep, that is a bad one. I need to fire someone the write Frank-proof scripts for me. HAHA
Probably would work better if the crack isnt on the side
like yours. If the cracks on top maybe itd work better since the jb weld will be seeping into the crack
I agree. Also, if I had removed the rad it would have been easier to apply, but if I am removing it might as well replace it (which is what i did)
Sucks it didn’t fix it. But like you said a way cheaper way to try
Aloha from Hawaii!
I really enjoy all of your videos!
PS, I have a 95 XJ
Well Aloha! Must be some wild Jeeping out there, yea?
Has anybody ever used J-B weld high temp to repair radiator cracked before I have some of that laying around hoping that it will work? Liberty tried using radiator weld epoxy the stuff that squirts out of the tube and it does not work as soon as the coolant gets in contact with that stuff it starts to break down so don't go about that route!
That stuff hardens WAY too fast. I got like 1:00 before it was rock hard.
Yup. WAY too fast and the instructions mention nothing about this. I was kneading and cutting the nylon about to apply right as it got super hot and then rock hard.
@@DrCash7 funny story, it caused my head gasket to blow because I didn't seal the leak in time before engine failure from overheating.
How long did it hold?
I would have gone through the hassle to remove the radiator, tape off the areas that I didn’t want to get the JB Weld on, and make it work the first time. I have a very small leak (1/8” on the top of my radiator). I’m thinking this would be overkill ....
i have a leaking rad too but its metal
i just tried JB weld yesterday i have to get it reinstalled today i hope it hold.
Joe Rogan did the voice-over? 😲
when i work with Jb weld give at least 24 hours to cure.
Use mapp gas and solder aluminium
WTF? only costs you $12 ???
It's $37 for the exact same kit here in Australia. OK it's made in the usa plus exchange rate difference but even so jm clearly getting ripped off here 😢
Dang.. seriously?? Sorry to hear that. Hope you found somrething that works
You should have taken the radiator out of the vehicle. To patch it thoroughly. You can do a much better job when nothing is in your way. You have a much better View. And you can see what you're doing
wish he would have pressure tested the radiator to show where the radiator was leaking. He might have had success if he had pulled the radiator to make the repairs.
I tried it and it worked like crap. Maybe the alcohol/acetone would have helped, but the directions do not mention this.
also didnt let it cure long enough
Nice hand tattoos 👌. Nothing wrong with a little bit of trash
Trash, aye?
Scissors was bad, bro 😂
too bad there is no way to buy the platic parts
I agree, cataclean does not work it is akso a wate of time
Sometimes you eat the bear sometimes the bear eats you