I like the point about getting a baseline for your current body condition by climbing a well-known climb to start the session. I have been doing the same thing as well by warming up with some easy bodyweight hangs on a good edge - if it feels super easy and like I could hang forever, I know my body is well rested and strong, whereas if I feel a little soreness in the fingers or fatigue, I know I shouldn't expect 100% performance from myself that day.
Loving board climbing (moon) and it takes some getting used to. I especially like that they have to-do lists where can save warm-ups, projects, and any other categories.
The big angle board training made me pull a tendon in my right ring finger. Didn’t realize the girl set it to a v5 when she said to give it a go. It felt good until I tried the third move and dropped. Then she said v5! 😂 I only started climbing in spring and made it a rule to never try anything above a v3-4 on vertical angles. Finger is about healed and gonna stick to lead climbing basics. Get comfortable with clipping and start leading more 9’s and 10’s
Does anyone have a recommemdation for wooden holds? Not any hogh end stuff just hold i can put up on my home wall to have some fun with. The wall is about 50° (i know, pretty steep but its okay). Ive thought about making wooden holds myself but it seems to be quite difficult. So if u have any hold sets to recommend or websites to visit for wooden holds reply here. Thank you in advance I know its not rly about grades bit just for your orientation im about a V6 climber 😁
I wish you had explained what the Boards are a bit more. You talked a lot about how to effectively board climb but didn't really mention what exactly a board is.
Some commercial examples of boards are Moonboard, Kilter board and Tension board. Here we are training on a custom build (Moonboard in the background), often called a woody because of the wood holds or wood construction that people use at home. Though you may see some boards called a spray wall or splatter board when the have a large mix of holds in seemingly random arrangement. Boards are typically flat overhangs (30-60 degrees) with a large range of holds but no defined or set problems. The problems are made up later by those that climb on the board. Leaving lots of room for imaginative setting, or space to set in styles that target weaknesses or strengths.
I like the point about getting a baseline for your current body condition by climbing a well-known climb to start the session. I have been doing the same thing as well by warming up with some easy bodyweight hangs on a good edge - if it feels super easy and like I could hang forever, I know my body is well rested and strong, whereas if I feel a little soreness in the fingers or fatigue, I know I shouldn't expect 100% performance from myself that day.
This definitely needs a part 2. Maybe even a part 3
Jen: don't focus on grades
me: thank god, as I can't get up Jen's 6Bs on the board at Lattice 😅
Loving board climbing (moon) and it takes some getting used to. I especially like that they have to-do lists where can save warm-ups, projects, and any other categories.
I cant hold on the board for the start moves - this is to work on for the far future
Need a part 2!
The big angle board training made me pull a tendon in my right ring finger.
Didn’t realize the girl set it to a v5 when she said to give it a go. It felt good until I tried the third move and dropped.
Then she said v5! 😂 I only started climbing in spring and made it a rule to never try anything above a v3-4 on vertical angles. Finger is about healed and gonna stick to lead climbing basics. Get comfortable with clipping and start leading more 9’s and 10’s
linus climbing tips
My gym does not have any boards 😭
Does anyone have a recommemdation for wooden holds? Not any hogh end stuff just hold i can put up on my home wall to have some fun with. The wall is about 50° (i know, pretty steep but its okay). Ive thought about making wooden holds myself but it seems to be quite difficult. So if u have any hold sets to recommend or websites to visit for wooden holds reply here. Thank you in advance
I know its not rly about grades bit just for your orientation im about a V6 climber 😁
Try to search wooden enginer on your country and request some hold its totally cheap and good for learning if u want to create some hold
Tension makes great holds, as does Beastmaker in the UK.
But if you are climbing v6 consider changing the wall angle so you can use smaller holds.
Euroholds
Metolius has awesome wooden holds.
Taylormadeholds or Silly goat
I wish you had explained what the Boards are a bit more. You talked a lot about how to effectively board climb but didn't really mention what exactly a board is.
Some commercial examples of boards are Moonboard, Kilter board and Tension board. Here we are training on a custom build (Moonboard in the background), often called a woody because of the wood holds or wood construction that people use at home. Though you may see some boards called a spray wall or splatter board when the have a large mix of holds in seemingly random arrangement. Boards are typically flat overhangs (30-60 degrees) with a large range of holds but no defined or set problems. The problems are made up later by those that climb on the board. Leaving lots of room for imaginative setting, or space to set in styles that target weaknesses or strengths.