I have a very similar design. It works well. The actual displayed temp is off by a couple of degrees but it was super cheap, heats up quick enough and is great for SMD work
Why can't they drill and tap on the underside of the plate instead of drilling through the top to mount the peltier? Just my OCD going into overdrive...
Looks like a good unit. Similar performance but better price than the miniware, although I admit the look of the MHP is way better, and seems to generally be built to a higher standard as well. You get what you pay for I suppose. And I love that transparent USB cable! Might have to figure out where I can buy that.
I was wondering this also. I'm considering making a shift from through hole to SMD and reflow seems the way forward. Component spec sheets list working temps like -25C to +125C and I don't know how heating them up to 220C-250C for reflow can be a good thing!
@@TristanJCumpole Operating temp and reflow temp are very different specs. Most lead-free SMT parts can handle like 260C for a specified period of time. To find out more, look up something like "reflow profile". You'll see a period of time where the unit is held around 100-125C to activate the flux, then it spikes to 245-260 for 30-45 seconds to make the solder flow. Then a ramp down, thermal shock is also an issue so you let it cool in a controlled manner. For the home gamer, I'd recommend using one of the low-melt alloys with Bismuth in it (I use a lot of Chipquik TS391), the reflow temp is much lower and makes it super easy to handle. Also keeps well at room temperature.
I have a very similar design. It works well. The actual displayed temp is off by a couple of degrees but it was super cheap, heats up quick enough and is great for SMD work
I wonder if a bit of heatsink paste would help out with those troublesome boards.
Why can't they drill and tap on the underside of the plate instead of drilling through the top to mount the peltier? Just my OCD going into overdrive...
Looks like a good unit. Similar performance but better price than the miniware, although I admit the look of the MHP is way better, and seems to generally be built to a higher standard as well. You get what you pay for I suppose.
And I love that transparent USB cable! Might have to figure out where I can buy that.
did you figured out what the dc in jack does? can we pass 25 volts from that plug?
what is the height of the hot plate?
It's 3.55 cm from the bottom.
@@KerryWongBlog The Product Dimensions 1.5 x 2.1 x 2.4 inches, shows this, thanks for your reply
They're on Ali for half the Amazon seller's price, if anyone wants
Newbie question here: don't you fry the components when they receive so much heat for so long?
I was wondering this also. I'm considering making a shift from through hole to SMD and reflow seems the way forward. Component spec sheets list working temps like -25C to +125C and I don't know how heating them up to 220C-250C for reflow can be a good thing!
@@TristanJCumpole Operating temp and reflow temp are very different specs. Most lead-free SMT parts can handle like 260C for a specified period of time. To find out more, look up something like "reflow profile". You'll see a period of time where the unit is held around 100-125C to activate the flux, then it spikes to 245-260 for 30-45 seconds to make the solder flow. Then a ramp down, thermal shock is also an issue so you let it cool in a controlled manner.
For the home gamer, I'd recommend using one of the low-melt alloys with Bismuth in it (I use a lot of Chipquik TS391), the reflow temp is much lower and makes it super easy to handle. Also keeps well at room temperature.
nice
can it boil water to make a coffee ;)
That's a good question
It's just big enough to keep your Turkish coffee warm. Not powerful enough to boil water.
That's cute.
GR8T DEMO. Mikey likes Cheers from So.Ca.USA 3rd House On the Left (pls call before stopping by)
not very hot?
want something this size for double sided boards, ive never looked into hot plate for double sided if possble enlighten me