Additionally, if you feel like you're about to tip and you want to correct yourself then never turn uphill. Turning uphill removes all your support from the front of the machine and makes you tip faster. Always turn downhill. Same thing if your tractor is balancing on the verge of tipping and you don't know how to get it out. Slowly lower your implements as close to the ground as possible to lower your center of gravity. Then slowly turn downhill and creep forward until the machine sets down on all four. If you have to reverse then turn so that once you're done reversing, the nose of the machine is pointing downhill.
Thanks Neil. Thanks for confirming that wheel spacers are manufacturer-approved. Word on the street is that it voids your warranty. I always tell guys to just call and confirm. “Plantedness”? I love it & will use it.
Good information! Another tip is to engage diff-lock going down and traversing steep grades. Once one rear wheel breaks traction it can spin backwards and allow the other wheel to freewheel... it will become a wild ride! Diff-lock is a feature you use BEFORE you need it.
This video is great for new tractor owners as well as old. So easy to become complacent after awhile. Horrible how tragic and fast one can lose their lives. Loss my sweet aunt recently; rolled at the edge of a pond after mowing the same area and farming the same farm for over 48 years. Sadly became trapped below the water. Thanks for the awareness.
Neal- great video & explaining various was to stabilize a tractor. I recently purchased a bx2680 & was moving dirt yo my slopes back yard, imagine my excitement, when I realized I was on 3 wheels & the front trying to lift also! 2 things kept me from rolling, I believe. #1 slow speed, #2 load low to ground. Also had the presence of mind to drop bucket right away!! I went through all the things you discussed with my local dealer! He was very helpful. I also did research on solutions. We ended up with two improvements, #1 fluid in rear tires, added 80 lbs, verses 50 with bolt in weights, #2 added 2” Bro tech spacers. I cannot complete changes for another month, (surgery), but feel confident this is a step in right direction!
Neil this is one of your best safety tips ever. I almost lost a good friend to a rollover accident, he spent over a month in the hospital and many more in rehab, from an older tractor rollover. I have the 2650 and the dealer added beet juice to the tires and I always keep a balanced load and my roll bar up. Keep up the great content and keeping us all safer and better with our equipment.
You are correct 2" wheel spacers made a world of difference on my 1870, my first utility tractor, so I have nothing else to compare it to, I'm sure I'd been happy with the other brands of tractors, but I must say that I absolutely love this tractor! Love your videos, btw, when you get a chance, put some paint on that man door, 4:15, it looks awful, lol
Neil, we shipped a large load of Kubota oils to you this past week. It should have arrived there on Tuesday. As a matter of fact, we shipped to all of your locations to finish the current Kubota oils promo. Hope everything arrived satisfactory and thanks for your business! I watch your videos and enjoy them.
Very informative and good advice including the responsibility for good decisions rest squarely on the operator. Your videos are the best and helped me make my buying decision. Wish Messicks was closer, but I know you hear that a lot. One small technical detail, the spacers do not introduce "torsion" to the axle, they introduce "moment."
I had a New Holland TC 26DA, and putting 1..25" wheel spacers to allow room for chains made it much more stable on uneven ground. You can feel the difference, for sure.
Good info thank you. I try to keep my rear tires not only loaded with liquid but as wide as I can get them to still fit them on my trailer. Thanks a lot
I brush hog my right-of-way with my Kubota B2650. I almost never wear my seatbelt in the pasture, which is relatively flat, but I wear it EVERY TIME on the right-of-way. Leaving the bucket on the front-end loader and the heavy brush hog helps but it’s pretty tippy on steeper slopes.
Hi Neil, always amazed when i see tractors mowing along the NYS Thruway on those slopes sideways... even the Z turns have a tough time... Thanks for the Tips...God Bless...Chief...{NYS/ADK}
Try to go up and down slopes instead of across, I have a pond bank I mow. Always up/down, it would definitely roll in places going across. Keep weights your carry (FEL or 3 point) as low as possible.
I put 1.5" axle extensions on my BX which only made it 3" wider but that helped a ton. With a 54" mid mower deck 1.5" extensions is all that will fit. If you do roll over sit the tractor upright and DO NOT start it for 24 hours. Give any fluids time to drain back into the crankcase. Fluids do not compress like air, it will mess your engine up. You'll thank me later.
@@jkconner9636 @JK Conner Hi buddy, the rear mower deck wheels will be what you'll need to clear. They run on the outside of the rear wheels. I used Jeep wheel extensions on my BX which were much cheaper than tractor extensions. They've been on for two years now with no problems. Seems like I did drill the lug holes slightly larger to accommodate a socket wrench. This doesn't effect the fit at all, only makes it easier to tighten the lugs. I was able to find my order history on eBay - 2) 1.5" Wheel Spacers | 5x114.3 5x4.5 Hubcentric w/ Lip 71.5mm Hub | 14x1.5 Stud. They were $60 a set, this should take ya to em. www.ebay.com/itm/222323512641 eBay item number:222323512641 Hope this helps Turn the keeper pins on the mower deck wheels around with the flat head of the pin toward the tire and the pin keepers on the outside so they won't get bent. The tire will bend them if you don't move them away from the tire.
On my BX I was able to swap the rear wheels (left to right and rotate 180) and this added about 1" of width. This had a big impact on how it handled rough ground.
My neighbor passed a couple months ago and My wife and I have been helping his widow as much as we can. He use to mow his terraced pasture with his 6040. He would ride the angles and not think twice. WhenI went to mow for her, I could not ride the length of those slopes. It just felt too sketchy.
missing: asymmetrical equipment should always project uphill also missing: when you start to roll the first thing you should touch is the engine cut-off and DO NOT put your hands on the wheel, it can feed-back and break both your arms in an instant. shove your coupled fists between your legs against the seat to give better support to your back in both pivot and twist
Or just bend over and stick your head between legs in a fast motion downwards towards your rear end so you can kiss your #$%% hahahahahah goodbye. I mow hills reveens and overall conditions not fit to be on. We use tractors up to the 50 degrees give or take and use svl skidsteers with mowers for anything above what the tractors can do. I had a man down the street roll a jd 6115 last year because his mowing tractor with snap on duals was down and he has been mowing that same pasture for 50 yrs and a armadilo hole caught the front tire and over he went he said he grabbed the armrests and held on to stay in the seat he was sure lucky he flipped all the way over and climbed out the back window. The wheel is not the place to hold your absolutely right
I live in the Northeast and had to run snow chains on my B3030. Kubota offered 1.5" spacers that allowed me the clearance to run chains. I think Kubota needs to make all their tractors have enough wheel clearance on the rear tires for at least tire chains!
Neil, you should also stress the need for sufficient rear ballast on side-slope operations, to aid in keeping both rears planted on the ground for when the front axle pivots (when dropping into a hole, for instance) and the inertia of the tractor tries to pop the uphill rear up off of the ground, which is, I would guess, one of the most common causes of roll-over (beside having a loaded loader bucket up too high when maneuvering).
When I bought this tractor (L3901), it surprised me that there was no "tilt-o-meter" I have though of adding one, but havent. Thanks for the videos and info.
The "tilt-o-meter" is in your rear. Eventually when running machinery on slopes you'll get a feel for what the machine can and can't do. You can feel it in your butt and in your back when the machine is on the verge of tipping.
For loader machines. Always keep the load as low as you can, even an empty bucket can help on a hill, especially if the ground is soft and the machine starts to slide when braking or in low gear. Drop that load or the bucket and no more sliding. My bush-hog has been known to push me down a hill and cause the tires to slide, so I just drop the loader bucket when it gets too sketchy.
you mention about wheels that are welded, so you can't reverse the center part of the rim. What you did not mention is that you can just flip the wheel around. You need to swap sides of the tractor so the tread goes the right way, but you have that option.
I might add surveying your mowing area, particularly if it hasn't been tended to for a while, for holes, ruts, or anything else that might impart a rolling moment could pay dividends in a better mowing experience. I mow the backside of a couple of farm pond dams, and I'm never comfortable, even though I've been mowing the same area for twenty years. Easy does it.
Just went in 2 wheels the other day, turned the steering down hill and punch the throttle. It worked pretty well, needless to say I'll just avoid that hill. I would like to do dual rear tires one day
I'm surprised that wheel spacers are ok. I use a bx2680 at work. It's a great machine. The only problem is it is narrow in the rear. Has a cab and lawn tires with no weight. It would be nice to be able to put wheel spacers on it to make it more stable and maybe some additional weight. It likes to wobble around on bumps and small piles of snow otherwise I like this tractor even more than the fleet of John Deere x758s that they have switched from. Honestly I'd like a BX series for at home. I have a long driveway with almost 2 acres. Spacers would make that machine much nicer to use as long as the tires don't rub the mower deck. Wondering if it would work with a BX 1880 and 48 inch deck
Dually tires would be another thing to think of. Anything to get a wider wheelbase will do. If that won't work, you'll need a adjustable arm on the back of the tractor with a long winch cable on it (sounds like a crane, looks like one at first glance, but it's not!). That method is often used on really steep skiing areas in Austria when they need to prepare the ski grounds with the snow dozers and even their wide base with their drive chains isn't enough either. Edit: That boom is what I mean: ua-cam.com/video/8nA86F54CuY/v-deo.html
I have a bx2680. I’m new to the bx tractor’s. Is any type of angle gauge that is for sale that you know of. At least let me know where the ““ red line would be before I reach it. Thanks again for a great video. Fred
I put spacers on my BX-25 and it does make a huge difference. However, it does interfere with the mid-mount mower which can no longer be retracted fully and has become difficult to install. The anti-scalp wheels make contact with the tire.
@@MessicksEquip I have two inch spacers front and rear - which is fantastic for tippyness. My mower is 54" (RCK54P23BX). I can still get it installed without too much trouble. I would like to use my "furniture mover" to position it for installation but no longer can. I also had to learn to watch when raising the deck and stop raising before it makes contact with the rear tire. I still have plenty of clearance when raised but it's irritating because I really need those spacers on my hilly property.
I’ve tipped mine over twice. If i were wearing seatbelts id been stuck in tractor. I was able to get off very easy without it. Slso I started it right up ZERO problems.
I understand what is said about R4 tires having a stiffer sidewall supporting the tractor better. However, is that trade off worth the traction gained with R1 tires in very steep terrain. Sierra foothills.
If you have a 60” mower deck, I think the largest you can install is 1.5”. Any wider than that, I think the deck wheels will contact the rear tires. I think I’ve read others having that problem, not 100% positive though. I dont think the 54” deck has that problem. Just double check the forums or reviews before you get something.
Hi Neil, I’ve been watching a ton of your videos lately because I’m in the market for a new tractor. I’m am very interested on information regarding the new LX2610 (not the SU model, and not the cab model). Hopefully you can put something together soon. I know it has a lot of similarities of the B2650, but the new R14 tires look interesting and several other things.
I searched out this already watched video because I am about to put 1 1/2" wheel spacers on my 2019 BX1880 but have a question concerning wheel weights. I have dealer installed wheel weights on both rear wheels and was concerned if that outward weight would cause more stress on the axle itself if I added the spacers.. I do not have a mower deck so room is not the issue. I do hope you can answer this inquiry or point me to someone that can. Thanks
@Messic's Equipment Neil, I wonder why you didn't mentioned the most simple and common practice, that is to turn wheels inside out. This typically gives few inches without using spacers. I know some compact tractors have it described in the Owners Manual. Is that not possible on all compact tractors? Are there any considerations? Also I've seen some double wheels on small tractors, how that is done and when to use it? It would be great to hear about this from a professional like you! :-) Great work, those videos!
Hi Neil, on my Kubota B1502, there's bolts on the tops of the front axle which look to act as limiters for how much the front axle can tilt. Is the recommendation to allow more tilt if typically going over bumpier ground? I'm using it for some logging operations over fairly rough ground in places, so any improvement would be good to have. Thanks.
NEIL my 3 series tractor front wheels sit in rite much compared to back tires,the inside of back tires just about line up with the outside of front tires,would it be better to put 2 inch spacers on front to help stability...
Just out of curiosity do you have any information on how to operate a 98 to 04 Kubota M120. We are looking to buy one but is a little differently than our Kubota M5700. Any advice or help would be appreciated
Most tractors can gain stability by just reversing the rims as most that have the hubs welded to rim is offset of center and may require switching from side to side ,at worst the air valve might be on inside of rim but might save the cost of spacers. Also if hillside mowing is required a belly mower puts a lot of weight low and increases stability.
I dont know the accuracy of this, but I've been told not a single person has died with working ROPS and using their seatbelt, and the whole system works as intended in a NORMAL (not off a 50 foot cliff) tip over. Of course lots of broken bones, but no deaths.
Well, for what it's worth, I know a guy nearly died with a seatbelt and ROPS up, but it's mostly due to the giant tree trunk that he rolled into, pinning him against the seat with the weight of the tractor, broke his leg, he's alright though.
Is it okay to fill tyres of smaller tractors with fluid? It seems to be a common practice to fill tyres of larger tractors up with fluid. However when it comes to compact or sub compact tractors filling tyres up with fluid does not seem to be so common.
No problem at all. We tend to use wheel weights as well. Its because they add about the equivalent amount of weight at marginally more cost, but because you preserve the air cushion in the tire the tractor will ride better.
Make sure you have tubes , most fluid is very corrosive and will eat through rims in a few years . There are some dry powder tire fills but they are expensive difficult to put in and remove (might not be available anymore , I think they were powdered lead )
We are purchasing a compact tractor soon, hopefully so anyway. The dealer will fill the rear tyres with water. I’ll enquire into wheel weights too, Where I live the weather rarely gets below freezing point and it’s never below freezing for long. So water in a tyre will not freeze over winter.
Thanks for the info, I have a 3301 4x4 Standard shift With a front loader, I put some 3 inch wheel spacers on the back, from BORA, is it OK to put some on the front to. Maybe 2 inches? (The rear tires are filled with fluid ). I need all the instability I can get, a lots of hills in Kentucky
Absolutely fantastic video, thanks. I have a 2003 Kabota BX22 tractor with a 3 blade finish Massio mower on the back. I do not keep the front loader on the tractor when i am mowing the grass so the front end of the tractor is very light. Please recommend what parts you would add to the front end of the tractor to add weight.
I'd probably say leave the loader on, but you can add front weights. These are not compatible with the front loader, so you need to remove them when you put the loader back on. You can also fill the front tires with fluid, but I'm not crazy about that.
We find that as long as your not doing wheelies up hill it's best to not have a loader due to it adding so much weight up high, also since the front axle pivots without any springs it doesn't matter what's on your front end the backend accually keeps you from tipping since its solid so weight low on the back does better
I have a 2005 BX23 to which I added 3" wheel spacers about 5 years ago. I just finished a very expensive repair/replacement because one of the axles suffered a catastrophic failure. (classic case of fatigue fracture right at the bearing) When the axle snapped, it also broke the aluminum cover that held the axle bearing in place. So, what am I bid for a pair of 3" wheel spacers?
The axels snapped because of the spacers? They say five to six years is needed to see the full effects of a medication. A similar amount of time could be needed to see the full effects of modifying a tractor too.
The only spacer with warranty would be the factory spacer on the models that its offered on. If you have axle damage from an aftermarket spacer, yes.. you could have a problem.
is horsepower a function of how steep a grade a tractor can go up and down? want a 26 hp but want to make sure it will be enough to climb up my steep gravel driveway.
I had a lawn service years ago and I had customers with steep parts of their lawn they wanted me to mow,, which I said no, it’s too steep, just let the grass grow.
Hey Neil so my grandpa and I actually just got done demoing the deluxe m4-071 from our local dealer McConnell’s in Lawrence, Ks. We went in there and were about to sign 2 weeks or so ago and my grandpa and I decided to sleep on it and over night I did the research and realized it wouldn’t probably be able to pull our big 1363 Massey mower conditioner it needs 70 at the pto. Also the markets crashed bad that night so we decided to hold off. So I was wondering if you think we should go ahead later this year and spend 10,000 more on a new m5-111 or buy a slightly used one? Because we could buy one with less than 500 hrs on it for the same price as a brand new m4. Also if you wouldn’t mind doing a really good video on a m5 and all the things on it, you did one a while back but I thought you could make a lot more in depth video on it with some of the features. Also are there anything wrong with the older models of the m5 or have they stayed the same all the years of manufacturing. If so do you know what years are the best if you know what I mean and are there any big issues with those tractors that should make us choice a different model? All we heard were good things about kubota. And our dealer is great and the jd dealer is really to completely be honest with you shit. They charged us over 2-3 grand just to haul our big loader tractor down the road about 4 miles and fix an oil leak we couldn’t find internally up somewhere under the cab into the engine. Then after we told them that’s all we wanted done they said oh we found a problem with your computer and engine in it and there never was. So they tried to charge us more for that too. So he didn’t pay and said,” you keep the damn tractor and sell it we’re done with you guys trying and doing all this unnecessary bs and up charging us every time we bring it here!” Now also deere parts are outrageously high. Our kubota dealer is awesome and was like you guys about 2-3 back and sold case, new holland, older new holland parts you know and still does but went to straight kubota now but still sells all the part for those other machines. Anyways with the tractor we just demoed my grandpa went to the dealer just to look and talk about some options because we were also tired of dealing with our older but nice 4020 and 3020 but mainly 3020 been having a lot of problems with it after we sold the newer Deere. So without even saying he would the next day they brought out a brand new m4 and didn’t even ask and said just try it out. Which if you ask us is awesome not to many dealers do that anymore. So just thought I’d share and rant a bit and ask a couple questions also love the vids you put out and hope you can get back to me. Carter B
I think highly of the M5-111. We have a nice used one ourselves (can swap tires at this price) messicks.com/used/farmtractors/79918 hard to say on the timing.
Messick's Yes Neil I have looked at that tractor but does it have 2 sets of hydraulic’s and third function? Because when we buy this tractor we’ll be buying a grapple for brush.
Please develop a 1” thick full length steel skid plate for my b2601. Bullet proof protection and lowest possible center of gravity. I require no reimbursement for the idea, I’ll be the first one to buy Thank you in advance
Hey Neil, I am a newbie and am very interested in getting a Kubota MX6000 or possibly a Grand L series tractor. The problem is I have a property that is mixed forest, hills, field and pasture with steep trails connecting them. My neighbour uses his Case Backhoe with no problem but I am concerned that the tractor won’t be able to go up and down the hills in the woods. I have trails that I want to upkeep and would like to see some hill driving with a utility tractor set up for to handle hills. I want a tractor more for the implements but if it cannot safely work on a steep hill I will have to find other options. I am wondering about box blades and bush hogging on trails I have and make. I have a hobby sawmill I would also like to use so I also wonder if it can handle uneven ground. I know thats a lot to ask. Does anyone watching know the hill capabilities of a utility tractor?
i have an MX4800 w/hst and a backhoe and some very "hilly" property. i have the adjustable offset rims like Neil described and have set them further out recently and it did make a big difference in stability, i had to swap the tires left to right in the rear to get the offset wider. i also have had tubes installed in my tires and have added water to them, again made a big difference in stability. Kubota also offers wheel weights that also aid in stability. that being said, i have had instances where i was on a hillside and hit the remnants of a tree stump with the uphill tire, luckily i was traveling slow with the loader down low, if i had been traveling fast or had the loader up high i feel that i would have went over.
I have a Kubota M9960. Great tractor but it absolutely is scary as heck on any kind of hill side. About flipped it on several occasions. One time back tire was about 3 feet off the ground and tractor was leaning very bad. Terrified on hill sides with it. Always feels like it is about to top over even on hills that aren't that steep. Had a John Deere 2555 and never felt that way with it. Been wondering if there is anything I could do besides trading it in.
@@MessicksEquip I've looked a little but shouldn't a tractor come from the factory with safety in mind? I don't live near a Kubota dealership so anything I do to it I'll have to do it myself.
@@MessicksEquip I driven all kinds of tractors, mostly John deeres, and never had a tractor that wants to tip over like the kubota. They didn't have to be set up. This one is scary as heck. I get that a different set up might help but that involves time and money and taking the tractor to someone which is a pain in the butt. Like I stated earlier, I love the tractor except for the instability. And I do appreciate the replies from you. I'm not trying to be a jerk. Love your videos and have learned a lot from them!
@@Cjfv1030 They absolutely do have to be setup. If the selling dealer left the tires set in (as all tractors come from the factory), it will feel like your describing. Your safety is worth taking a look and getting it right.
Adding fluid to tires requires special equipment; and you should have a dealer somewhere near you that sells & installs the fluid. Rim-Gard (probably spelled that wrong) is one popular brand; but I don’t have any personal experience with them. My understanding is that it’s beet juice based; but has some additives as well. You don’t want to use straight water, because it’ll rust the rims out.
i had tubes installed in my tires and use plain water, BUT i live in an area that isn't prone to freezing, they have a anti-freeze for cold areas. another option is having your tires foam filled- they have a heavy foam that gets pumped in the tire and acts as ballast- the downside is if you have to replace tires your tire guy is gonna hate you, it can be done though, and tractor tires last decades unless you tear one somehow.
A tractor tire full of foam would be insanely heavy. When we do that with skidloader tires It adds like 120lbs+ I would wonder how much it would add to a midsize tractor tire.
Thanks for the info. I am in a tropical country (Belize) and I am interested in a subcompact tractor for landscaping. Therefore, weight on lawn turf is what I will be trying to avoid, mostly. Prayers to you all.
This would help some from a "front weight bias" stand point but it would do little to lower the center of gravity to reduce roll overs due to the pivoting front axle. In other words, because the front axle pivots in the center, both tires can still be firmly on the ground even though the tractor is tipping over (at least until the axle hits the pivot stops).
Filled fronts can have adverse effects on handling & steering at top speed, particularly when cruising down a road. Typically not recommended. Also, on sub-compact tractors with small front tires, having them filled can increase the chances of the tire bead coming off of the rim when turning sharp with heavy loads up front, and also when side-sloping, ...due to the small volume of compressible air in the tire.
Additionally, if you feel like you're about to tip and you want to correct yourself then never turn uphill. Turning uphill removes all your support from the front of the machine and makes you tip faster. Always turn downhill. Same thing if your tractor is balancing on the verge of tipping and you don't know how to get it out. Slowly lower your implements as close to the ground as possible to lower your center of gravity. Then slowly turn downhill and creep forward until the machine sets down on all four. If you have to reverse then turn so that once you're done reversing, the nose of the machine is pointing downhill.
Thanks Neil. Thanks for confirming that wheel spacers are manufacturer-approved. Word on the street is that it voids your warranty. I always tell guys to just call and confirm. “Plantedness”? I love it & will use it.
Good information! Another tip is to engage diff-lock going down and traversing steep grades. Once one rear wheel breaks traction it can spin backwards and allow the other wheel to freewheel... it will become a wild ride! Diff-lock is a feature you use BEFORE you need it.
This video is great for new tractor owners as well as old. So easy to become complacent after awhile. Horrible how tragic and fast one can lose their lives. Loss my sweet aunt recently; rolled at the edge of a pond after mowing the same area and farming the same farm for over 48 years. Sadly became trapped below the water. Thanks for the awareness.
Exactly the same thing happened to my grandfather. Fortunately he made it out.
Neal- great video & explaining various was to stabilize a tractor. I recently purchased a bx2680 & was moving dirt yo my slopes back yard, imagine my excitement, when I realized I was on 3 wheels & the front trying to lift also! 2 things kept me from rolling, I believe. #1 slow speed, #2 load low to ground. Also had the presence of mind to drop bucket right away!!
I went through all the things you discussed with my local dealer! He was very helpful. I also did research on solutions. We ended up with two improvements, #1 fluid in rear tires, added 80 lbs, verses 50 with bolt in weights, #2 added 2” Bro tech spacers. I cannot complete changes for another month, (surgery), but feel confident this is a step in right direction!
Neil this is one of your best safety tips ever.
I almost lost a good friend to a rollover accident, he spent over a month in the hospital and many more in rehab, from an older tractor rollover. I have the 2650 and the dealer added beet juice to the tires and I always keep a balanced load and my roll bar up.
Keep up the great content and keeping us all safer and better with our equipment.
Beet juice. Well, I can't think of anything else beet juice would be good for! :D
You are correct 2" wheel spacers made a world of difference on my 1870, my first utility tractor, so I have nothing else to compare it to, I'm sure I'd been happy with the other brands of tractors, but I must say that I absolutely love this tractor! Love your videos, btw, when you get a chance, put some paint on that man door, 4:15, it looks awful, lol
Neil, we shipped a large load of Kubota oils to you this past week. It should have arrived there on Tuesday. As a matter of fact, we shipped to all of your locations to finish the current Kubota oils promo. Hope everything arrived satisfactory and thanks for your business! I watch your videos and enjoy them.
Its here, I noticed the skids in the warehouse. Cool to put a name to the shipment.
Very informative and good advice including the responsibility for good decisions rest squarely on the operator. Your videos are the best and helped me make my buying decision. Wish Messicks was closer, but I know you hear that a lot. One small technical detail, the spacers do not introduce "torsion" to the axle, they introduce "moment."
I had a New Holland TC 26DA, and putting 1..25" wheel spacers to allow room for chains made it much more stable on uneven ground. You can feel the difference, for sure.
Good info thank you. I try to keep my rear tires not only loaded with liquid but as wide as I can get them to still fit them on my trailer. Thanks a lot
I brush hog my right-of-way with my Kubota B2650. I almost never wear my seatbelt in the pasture, which is relatively flat, but I wear it EVERY TIME on the right-of-way.
Leaving the bucket on the front-end loader and the heavy brush hog helps but it’s pretty tippy on steeper slopes.
Very wise. Glad to hear high quality spacers are a reasonable idea.
Hi Neil, always amazed when i see tractors mowing along the NYS Thruway on those slopes sideways... even the Z turns have a tough time... Thanks for the Tips...God Bless...Chief...{NYS/ADK}
zero turns are the most unstable machines on hills
Try to go up and down slopes instead of across, I have a pond bank I mow. Always up/down, it would definitely roll in places going across. Keep weights your carry (FEL or 3 point) as low as possible.
I put 1.5" axle extensions on my BX which only made it 3" wider but that helped a ton. With a 54" mid mower deck 1.5" extensions is all that will fit. If you do roll over sit the tractor upright and DO NOT start it for 24 hours. Give any fluids time to drain back into the crankcase. Fluids do not compress like air, it will mess your engine up. You'll thank me later.
Just picked up a BX with a54” deck. Was thinking 2”, see you say 1.5….what guideline are you using? Extensions are new to me. Thanks
@@jkconner9636 @JK Conner Hi buddy, the rear mower deck wheels will be what you'll need to clear. They run on the outside of the rear wheels. I used Jeep wheel extensions on my BX which were much cheaper than tractor extensions. They've been on for two years now with no problems. Seems like I did drill the lug holes slightly larger to accommodate a socket wrench. This doesn't effect the fit at all, only makes it easier to tighten the lugs. I was able to find my order history on eBay - 2) 1.5" Wheel Spacers | 5x114.3 5x4.5 Hubcentric w/ Lip 71.5mm Hub | 14x1.5 Stud. They were $60 a set, this should take ya to em. www.ebay.com/itm/222323512641
eBay item number:222323512641 Hope this helps
Turn the keeper pins on the mower deck wheels around with the flat head of the pin toward the tire and the pin keepers on the outside so they won't get bent. The tire will bend them if you don't move them away from the tire.
Good video Neil. Nice tips👍
On my BX I was able to swap the rear wheels (left to right and rotate 180) and this added about 1" of width. This had a big impact on how it handled rough ground.
What kind of tires do you have on? Turf, Ag or R4?
My neighbor passed a couple months ago and My wife and I have been helping his widow as much as we can. He use to mow his terraced pasture with his 6040. He would ride the angles and not think twice. WhenI went to mow for her, I could not ride the length of those slopes. It just felt too sketchy.
missing: asymmetrical equipment should always project uphill
also missing: when you start to roll the first thing you should touch is the engine cut-off and DO NOT put your hands on the wheel, it can feed-back and break both your arms in an instant. shove your coupled fists between your legs against the seat to give better support to your back in both pivot and twist
Or just bend over and stick your head between legs in a fast motion downwards towards your rear end so you can kiss your #$%% hahahahahah goodbye. I mow hills reveens and overall conditions not fit to be on. We use tractors up to the 50 degrees give or take and use svl skidsteers with mowers for anything above what the tractors can do. I had a man down the street roll a jd 6115 last year because his mowing tractor with snap on duals was down and he has been mowing that same pasture for 50 yrs and a armadilo hole caught the front tire and over he went he said he grabbed the armrests and held on to stay in the seat he was sure lucky he flipped all the way over and climbed out the back window. The wheel is not the place to hold your absolutely right
I live in the Northeast and had to run snow chains on my B3030. Kubota offered 1.5" spacers that allowed me the clearance to run chains. I think Kubota needs to make all their tractors have enough wheel clearance on the rear tires for at least tire chains!
Great Video Neil ! Keep up the good work .
Very good information. Great job.
Great video as always thanks!
Ain't Nobody got time fer Dat!!! lol My OCD kept looking there also.
Thank you this video has been very informative.
Neil, you should also stress the need for sufficient rear ballast on side-slope operations, to aid in keeping both rears planted on the ground for when the front axle pivots (when dropping into a hole, for instance) and the inertia of the tractor tries to pop the uphill rear up off of the ground, which is, I would guess, one of the most common causes of roll-over (beside having a loaded loader bucket up too high when maneuvering).
When I bought this tractor (L3901), it surprised me that there was no "tilt-o-meter" I have though of adding one, but havent. Thanks for the videos and info.
The "tilt-o-meter" is in your rear. Eventually when running machinery on slopes you'll get a feel for what the machine can and can't do. You can feel it in your butt and in your back when the machine is on the verge of tipping.
For loader machines. Always keep the load as low as you can, even an empty bucket can help on a hill, especially if the ground is soft and the machine starts to slide when braking or in low gear. Drop that load or the bucket and no more sliding.
My bush-hog has been known to push me down a hill and cause the tires to slide, so I just drop the loader bucket when it gets too sketchy.
This! Keep the loader and anything on the 3 point as low as possible when on a side slope.
Good info- I wish it was that warm out!
You and me both!
In the 80s here. Pollen is going full blast, it hurts
...yet just a few months ago, everyone was saying “bring on the snow!”......
you mention about wheels that are welded, so you can't reverse the center part of the rim. What you did not mention is that you can just flip the wheel around. You need to swap sides of the tractor so the tread goes the right way, but you have that option.
Great points made.
Oh, paint the back door lol.
I’d love that B2650
I might add surveying your mowing area, particularly if it hasn't been tended to for a while, for holes, ruts, or anything else that might impart a rolling moment could pay dividends in a better mowing experience. I mow the backside of a couple of farm pond dams, and I'm never comfortable, even though I've been mowing the same area for twenty years. Easy does it.
Just went in 2 wheels the other day, turned the steering down hill and punch the throttle. It worked pretty well, needless to say I'll just avoid that hill. I would like to do dual rear tires one day
Great Video. Thanks
Neil, when did you film this? The lawn looks to be months ahead of me.
I'm surprised that wheel spacers are ok. I use a bx2680 at work. It's a great machine. The only problem is it is narrow in the rear. Has a cab and lawn tires with no weight. It would be nice to be able to put wheel spacers on it to make it more stable and maybe some additional weight. It likes to wobble around on bumps and small piles of snow otherwise I like this tractor even more than the fleet of John Deere x758s that they have switched from. Honestly I'd like a BX series for at home. I have a long driveway with almost 2 acres. Spacers would make that machine much nicer to use as long as the tires don't rub the mower deck. Wondering if it would work with a BX 1880 and 48 inch deck
Dually tires would be another thing to think of. Anything to get a wider wheelbase will do.
If that won't work, you'll need a adjustable arm on the back of the tractor with a long winch cable on it (sounds like a crane, looks like one at first glance, but it's not!).
That method is often used on really steep skiing areas in Austria when they need to prepare the ski grounds with the snow dozers and even their wide base with their drive chains isn't enough either.
Edit: That boom is what I mean: ua-cam.com/video/8nA86F54CuY/v-deo.html
I have a bx2680. I’m new to the bx tractor’s. Is any type of angle gauge that is for sale that you know of. At least let me know where the ““ red line would be before I reach it. Thanks again for a great video.
Fred
I put spacers on my BX-25 and it does make a huge difference. However, it does interfere with the mid-mount mower which can no longer be retracted fully and has become difficult to install. The anti-scalp wheels make contact with the tire.
Spacers are too big, or 54" deck?
@@MessicksEquip I have two inch spacers front and rear - which is fantastic for tippyness. My mower is 54" (RCK54P23BX). I can still get it installed without too much trouble. I would like to use my "furniture mover" to position it for installation but no longer can. I also had to learn to watch when raising the deck and stop raising before it makes contact with the rear tire. I still have plenty of clearance when raised but it's irritating because I really need those spacers on my hilly property.
@@johnlowry3609 Right. 2" spacers are fine on a 60" deck, with a 54" you won't have as much clearance.
Get a Ventrac 4500 series certified to 35 slope and that is STEEP!
I was thinking the same thing. The Ventrac is slope certified but it is a unique machine.
Get a Ven Trac!
Angle of approach to the hill is critical.
I’ve tipped mine over twice. If i were wearing seatbelts id been stuck in tractor. I was able to get off very easy without it. Slso I started it right up ZERO problems.
Or what angle would be getting to unsafe? 20-30 ect
Well stated.
I understand what is said about R4 tires having a stiffer sidewall supporting the tractor better. However, is that trade off worth the traction gained with R1 tires in very steep terrain. Sierra foothills.
Neil, what if u had a 500 lb ballast box on the back of ur machine, would the ROPs save u?
I like the wheel spacer idea, I think I'm gonna look at adding an inch or 2 to my BX.
If you have a 60” mower deck, I think the largest you can install is 1.5”. Any wider than that, I think the deck wheels will contact the rear tires. I think I’ve read others having that problem, not 100% positive though. I dont think the 54” deck has that problem. Just double check the forums or reviews before you get something.
On my bx 1880 any larger than 1.5" spacers wont allow the mower deck to fit .
Hi Neil, I’ve been watching a ton of your videos lately because I’m in the market for a new tractor. I’m am very interested on information regarding the new LX2610 (not the SU model, and not the cab model). Hopefully you can put something together soon. I know it has a lot of similarities of the B2650, but the new R14 tires look interesting and several other things.
Put 1.5” spacers on my BX, what an incredible difference.
thank
I searched out this already watched video because I am about to put 1 1/2" wheel spacers on my 2019 BX1880 but have a question concerning wheel weights. I have dealer installed wheel weights on both rear wheels and was concerned if that outward weight would cause more stress on the axle itself if I added the spacers.. I do not have a mower deck so room is not the issue. I do hope you can answer this inquiry or point me to someone that can. Thanks
Was this an old recorded video because I am 2 hours north of messicks and we don’t have leaves on our trees yet?
How do you decide what wheel spacer to get. 1” to 4”?
@Messic's Equipment Neil, I wonder why you didn't mentioned the most simple and common practice, that is to turn wheels inside out. This typically gives few inches without using spacers. I know some compact tractors have it described in the Owners Manual. Is that not possible on all compact tractors? Are there any considerations? Also I've seen some double wheels on small tractors, how that is done and when to use it? It would be great to hear about this from a professional like you! :-) Great work, those videos!
Not possible on many tractors
Hi Neil, on my Kubota B1502, there's bolts on the tops of the front axle which look to act as limiters for how much the front axle can tilt. Is the recommendation to allow more tilt if typically going over bumpier ground? I'm using it for some logging operations over fairly rough ground in places, so any improvement would be good to have. Thanks.
NEIL my 3 series tractor front wheels sit in rite much compared to back tires,the inside of back tires just about line up with the outside of front tires,would it be better to put 2 inch spacers on front to help stability...
Just out of curiosity do you have any information on how to operate a 98 to 04 Kubota M120. We are looking to buy one but is a little differently than our Kubota M5700. Any advice or help would be appreciated
Most tractors can gain stability by just reversing the rims as most that have the hubs welded to rim is offset of center and may require switching from side to side ,at worst the air valve might be on inside of rim but might save the cost of spacers. Also if hillside mowing is required a belly mower puts a lot of weight low and increases stability.
2" per side on my 2005 BX23, massive better feel and stability.
I dont know the accuracy of this, but I've been told not a single person has died with working ROPS and using their seatbelt, and the whole system works as intended in a NORMAL (not off a 50 foot cliff) tip over. Of course lots of broken bones, but no deaths.
Well, for what it's worth, I know a guy nearly died with a seatbelt and ROPS up, but it's mostly due to the giant tree trunk that he rolled into, pinning him against the seat with the weight of the tractor, broke his leg, he's alright though.
Is it okay to fill tyres of smaller tractors with fluid? It seems to be a common practice to fill tyres of larger tractors up with fluid. However when it comes to compact or sub compact tractors filling tyres up with fluid does not seem to be so common.
No problem at all. We tend to use wheel weights as well. Its because they add about the equivalent amount of weight at marginally more cost, but because you preserve the air cushion in the tire the tractor will ride better.
Make sure you have tubes , most fluid is very corrosive and will eat through rims in a few years . There are some dry powder tire fills but they are expensive difficult to put in and remove (might not be available anymore , I think they were powdered lead )
We are purchasing a compact tractor soon, hopefully so anyway. The dealer will fill the rear tyres with water. I’ll enquire into wheel weights too,
Where I live the weather rarely gets below freezing point and it’s never below freezing for long. So water in a tyre will not freeze over winter.
A Kubota MX5200HD is being delivered to us tomorrow. It’s rear tyres, they are ag tyres, are filled with water and are set to their outermost setting.
Thanks for the info, I have a 3301 4x4 Standard shift With a front loader, I put some 3 inch wheel spacers on the back, from BORA, is it OK to put some on the front to. Maybe 2 inches? (The rear tires are filled with fluid ). I need all the instability I can get, a lots of hills in Kentucky
I'm more cautious on the front with a loader involved. Probably okay Initially, may wear over time.
Absolutely fantastic video, thanks. I have a 2003 Kabota BX22 tractor with a 3 blade finish Massio mower on the back. I do not keep the front loader on the tractor when i am mowing the grass so the front end of the tractor is very light. Please recommend what parts you would add to the front end of the tractor to add weight.
I'd probably say leave the loader on, but you can add front weights. These are not compatible with the front loader, so you need to remove them when you put the loader back on. You can also fill the front tires with fluid, but I'm not crazy about that.
We find that as long as your not doing wheelies up hill it's best to not have a loader due to it adding so much weight up high, also since the front axle pivots without any springs it doesn't matter what's on your front end the backend accually keeps you from tipping since its solid so weight low on the back does better
I have a 2005 BX23 to which I added 3" wheel spacers about 5 years ago. I just finished a very expensive repair/replacement because one of the axles suffered a catastrophic failure. (classic case of fatigue fracture right at the bearing) When the axle snapped, it also broke the aluminum cover that held the axle bearing in place. So, what am I bid for a pair of 3" wheel spacers?
The axels snapped because of the spacers? They say five to six years is needed to see the full effects of a medication. A similar amount of time could be needed to see the full effects of modifying a tractor too.
Do wheel spacers void any warranties when installed? And/or are there any approved sizes?
The only spacer with warranty would be the factory spacer on the models that its offered on. If you have axle damage from an aftermarket spacer, yes.. you could have a problem.
is horsepower a function of how steep a grade a tractor can go up and down? want a 26 hp but want to make sure it will be enough to climb up my steep gravel driveway.
Horsepower will help determine how fast, but not necessarily enable it to climb.
Ventrac?
Sugar farmer Those double wheeled Ventrac are really excellent on slope.
what is not clear is why they are not factory configured for hill side safety
Is (was) that 2650 with spacers or is that the normal width with the turf tires?
normal width
I had a lawn service years ago and I had customers with steep parts of their lawn they wanted me to mow,, which I said no, it’s too steep, just let the grass grow.
Hey Neil so my grandpa and I actually just got done demoing the deluxe m4-071 from our local dealer McConnell’s in Lawrence, Ks. We went in there and were about to sign 2 weeks or so ago and my grandpa and I decided to sleep on it and over night I did the research and realized it wouldn’t probably be able to pull our big 1363 Massey mower conditioner it needs 70 at the pto. Also the markets crashed bad that night so we decided to hold off. So I was wondering if you think we should go ahead later this year and spend 10,000 more on a new m5-111 or buy a slightly used one? Because we could buy one with less than 500 hrs on it for the same price as a brand new m4. Also if you wouldn’t mind doing a really good video on a m5 and all the things on it, you did one a while back but I thought you could make a lot more in depth video on it with some of the features. Also are there anything wrong with the older models of the m5 or have they stayed the same all the years of manufacturing. If so do you know what years are the best if you know what I mean and are there any big issues with those tractors that should make us choice a different model? All we heard were good things about kubota. And our dealer is great and the jd dealer is really to completely be honest with you shit. They charged us over 2-3 grand just to haul our big loader tractor down the road about 4 miles and fix an oil leak we couldn’t find internally up somewhere under the cab into the engine. Then after we told them that’s all we wanted done they said oh we found a problem with your computer and engine in it and there never was. So they tried to charge us more for that too. So he didn’t pay and said,” you keep the damn tractor and sell it we’re done with you guys trying and doing all this unnecessary bs and up charging us every time we bring it here!” Now also deere parts are outrageously high. Our kubota dealer is awesome and was like you guys about 2-3 back and sold case, new holland, older new holland parts you know and still does but went to straight kubota now but still sells all the part for those other machines. Anyways with the tractor we just demoed my grandpa went to the dealer just to look and talk about some options because we were also tired of dealing with our older but nice 4020 and 3020 but mainly 3020 been having a lot of problems with it after we sold the newer Deere. So without even saying he would the next day they brought out a brand new m4 and didn’t even ask and said just try it out. Which if you ask us is awesome not to many dealers do that anymore. So just thought I’d share and rant a bit and ask a couple questions also love the vids you put out and hope you can get back to me. Carter B
I think highly of the M5-111. We have a nice used one ourselves (can swap tires at this price)
messicks.com/used/farmtractors/79918
hard to say on the timing.
Messick's Yes Neil I have looked at that tractor but does it have 2 sets of hydraulic’s and third function? Because when we buy this tractor we’ll be buying a grapple for brush.
Please develop a 1” thick full length steel skid plate for my b2601. Bullet proof protection and lowest possible center of gravity.
I require no reimbursement for the idea, I’ll be the first one to buy
Thank you in advance
Hey Neil, I am a newbie and am very interested in getting a Kubota MX6000 or possibly a Grand L series tractor. The problem is I have a property that is mixed forest, hills, field and pasture with steep trails connecting them. My neighbour uses his Case Backhoe with no problem but I am concerned that the tractor won’t be able to go up and down the hills in the woods. I have trails that I want to upkeep and would like to see some hill driving with a utility tractor set up for to handle hills. I want a tractor more for the implements but if it cannot safely work on a steep hill I will have to find other options. I am wondering about box blades and bush hogging on trails I have and make. I have a hobby sawmill I would also like to use so I also wonder if it can handle uneven ground.
I know thats a lot to ask. Does anyone watching know the hill capabilities of a utility tractor?
i have an MX4800 w/hst and a backhoe and some very "hilly" property. i have the adjustable offset rims like Neil described and have set them further out recently and it did make a big difference in stability, i had to swap the tires left to right in the rear to get the offset wider. i also have had tubes installed in my tires and have added water to them, again made a big difference in stability. Kubota also offers wheel weights that also aid in stability. that being said, i have had instances where i was on a hillside and hit the remnants of a tree stump with the uphill tire, luckily i was traveling slow with the loader down low, if i had been traveling fast or had the loader up high i feel that i would have went over.
I have a Kubota M9960. Great tractor but it absolutely is scary as heck on any kind of hill side. About flipped it on several occasions. One time back tire was about 3 feet off the ground and tractor was leaning very bad. Terrified on hill sides with it. Always feels like it is about to top over even on hills that aren't that steep. Had a John Deere 2555 and never felt that way with it. Been wondering if there is anything I could do besides trading it in.
Have you looked at any of these things? Weights? Wheel spacing?
@@MessicksEquip I've looked a little but shouldn't a tractor come from the factory with safety in mind? I don't live near a Kubota dealership so anything I do to it I'll have to do it myself.
@@Cjfv1030 they do.. rops & seat belt. Everyone's applications and implements vary so a certain amount of setup and prep is needed for each tractor.
@@MessicksEquip I driven all kinds of tractors, mostly John deeres, and never had a tractor that wants to tip over like the kubota. They didn't have to be set up. This one is scary as heck. I get that a different set up might help but that involves time and money and taking the tractor to someone which is a pain in the butt.
Like I stated earlier, I love the tractor except for the instability. And I do appreciate the replies from you. I'm not trying to be a jerk. Love your videos and have learned a lot from them!
@@Cjfv1030 They absolutely do have to be setup. If the selling dealer left the tires set in (as all tractors come from the factory), it will feel like your describing. Your safety is worth taking a look and getting it right.
Best to not drive sideways on a slope to prevent rolling. Stick to uphill or downhill.
Are Cab tractors more prone to tip because of the top weight?
Yes, you can tell.
What kind of fluids can be used in the tires
Adding fluid to tires requires special equipment; and you should have a dealer somewhere near you that sells & installs the fluid. Rim-Gard (probably spelled that wrong) is one popular brand; but I don’t have any personal experience with them. My understanding is that it’s beet juice based; but has some additives as well. You don’t want to use straight water, because it’ll rust the rims out.
i had tubes installed in my tires and use plain water, BUT i live in an area that isn't prone to freezing, they have a anti-freeze for cold areas. another option is having your tires foam filled- they have a heavy foam that gets pumped in the tire and acts as ballast- the downside is if you have to replace tires your tire guy is gonna hate you, it can be done though, and tractor tires last decades unless you tear one somehow.
A tractor tire full of foam would be insanely heavy. When we do that with skidloader tires It adds like 120lbs+ I would wonder how much it would add to a midsize tractor tire.
Thanks for the info. I am in a tropical country (Belize) and I am interested in a subcompact tractor for landscaping. Therefore, weight on lawn turf is what I will be trying to avoid, mostly. Prayers to you all.
couldn't you fill the front tires as well instead of putting weight on the front?
You could. Less weight, less effective because its further back.
This would help some from a "front weight bias" stand point but it would do little to lower the center of gravity to reduce roll overs due to the pivoting front axle. In other words, because the front axle pivots in the center, both tires can still be firmly on the ground even though the tractor is tipping over (at least until the axle hits the pivot stops).
Filled fronts can have adverse effects on handling & steering at top speed, particularly when cruising down a road. Typically not recommended. Also, on sub-compact tractors with small front tires, having them filled can increase the chances of the tire bead coming off of the rim when turning sharp with heavy loads up front, and also when side-sloping, ...due to the small volume of compressible air in the tire.
I have heard rumors that Kubota might be releasing a new SVL machine that is more powerful than the current SVL95? Do you know of any truth to this?
I didn’t know Mac sold tractors? Where’s the duster?
On not awn
Offer not ahffer
I will NEVER put fluid in my tires. It destroys the rims and makes punctures harder to plug. There are better ways to keep the wheels on the ground.
Love your vids. It’d be good to include “gals” not just “guys” whom you often reference. Or simply “people”