I’m doing my first enduro race at the end of this month with two other friends, here in Australia it’s school holidays so my friends have been sessioning the trails that will be in the enduro.
Very good advise - have you found good saddle ... Buy second one because at the moment you want to change it will not be available. To find one that suits perfectly is long lasting.
I'd really like to see some testing comparing bigger front rotor to bigger back rotor. IMO you'd want equal size or have the rear rotor be bigger in order to allow more cooling. My rear brake gets used a lot more than the front, I'll drag the rear to control my speed since mountain bikes don't have the engine breaking that a dirtbike has. Same reason I run metallic pads in the back, but left resin up front
Motorcycles almost always have bigger rotors for more stopping power in the front. Even two-strokes that have nearly zero engine braking. When you use the brakes hard the weight transfers to the front. Under the heaviest braking the rear tire has nearly zero weight on it or is sometimes even floating. The rear brake then becomes useless. The front brake is the one getting the work done.
@@Tzed250 I’m referring more to the light rear braking use to control your speed vs coming to a full stop. The way i ride is: rear brake to control speed/ slow down a bit, front brake to really slow down/ stop Code rsc with 180mm up front is plenty of power to come to a stop, it get used less so pretty much never suffers from fade. Also running 180mm in the rear and usually i don’t get much fade, but they heat up very often. That’s where my line of thinking is coming from: bigger rear for cooling, not for outright power
Keen to understand more about why you seem to have a strong stance against carbon wheels for racing. Have there been tests (or from your own experience) that suggests that they are more fragile? A video on this alone would be good. Rather than the 'more expensive = better ' approach, what are the characteristics/ functionality to consider and what are the real world impacts. Cheers!
Hey man, I know you asked this question a year ago haha, but it’s not because they’re more fragile than alloy, it’s just because a heavy impact on an alloy rim creates a dent which is fixable. On a carbon rim it would crack. For xc and dh, this isn’t a problem, however in enduro, you can’t change wheels or other major bike parts between stages, so if your carbon rim breaks, you’re out for the day
Great tip on getting a spare! It's actually my default esp. specific component/parts tend to become easily ouy-of-stock or production ceased. I have a 2017 model MTB. I'm beginning to experience parts scarcity. Even the local bikeshops nearby don't have the parts that I need, even having the difficulty to source parts. #KeepBiking
It went together easily in less than an hour. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Make sure the front fork is forward or the pedals will hit the front tire. Tires are both a little soft so it needs air before I ride it. The rear wheel didn't come with a clamp regular bolts hold it on. The front had the clamp. No scratches out of box. Rims are a little off with a slight wobble. They could have spent more time with the spoke tool fixing the run out. So far out of the box I'm happy with it. I did replace the pedals with a nice aftermarket set. After riding it a bit my A$$ is a bit sore so I ordered another seat. Overall I'm nearly 60 and didn't ride a bike in 30 years. I like my new 29" Schwinn. It will be used for casual rides with my friend.
I've trolled many of your videos and love your passion for putting out information. 20+ years ago I raced XC. Recently purchased a trail bike (Norco Fluid) and am interested in possibly racing once again. The Enduro racing look like an absolute blast. Any tips on getting the Fluid into an entry level Enduro bike?
My Enduro (Cube Fritzz) has FOX 180 in front and 180 in the back. Is that too much if most of my riding is going to be up and down trails? Also...Should I go tubeless (It's tubeless ready)
Have you had any issues with the chain guide rubbing in the lower gears on the Giga? If I’m in the smallest or second smaller gear my chain rubs up against it and I can’t find a way to adjust it and I don’t want my chain coming off during downhill
@@CarkeekW actually, heat can dissipate even without interaction with air, by radiation. Radiation can pass a vacuum, and that's pretty good, otherwise we would not feel any warmth from the sun. Then, air will also help via convection. So both mechanisms are active, but I would have to say that the way Rich put it, it sounds like the fins are to draw air into the caliper between the pads, and that is definitely not the way they work. 🤓
@@widkin Yep its like NACA ducts on flat floors or ducts on a hood for cars. They dont allow air in (that would be bad), they instead use the suction from the air passing over them to pull the hot air out of where it needs out. It's a pretty easy misconception to think that you want "cool" air into a compartment, but really you want the air out. It's not a radiator :)
@11:11 Isn't "more pistons equals more power" kind of a myth? It all depends on how much contact surface the pistons have in relation to the brake pads and the rotor. If two pistons have more contact surface than four, than two will generate more power to the brakes. So I would argue that four pistons does not generally mean more power, but hey I'm open for discussion. It's the internet after all. :)
Your probably right. The pressure transmitted is proportional to the pressure you can apply in the brake lever, after all. It works like this: Pressure will be the same throughout the oil, and since the area of the inside of the piston is larger than the area of the piston in the brake lever, the actual force on the piston from the oil is greater (force = pressure times area). It's the same principle as a lifting jack for a car. This also means that one large or two smaller pistons per side makes no difference, it the total area that is in contact with the oil that is important. However, I'm sure that it is easier to make pistons cylindrical than any other shape (they almost always are) and that would mean that a two piston caliper would have to be much higher to work, and that would require wider disc rotors. And there I think we have the reason for using four piston instead of larger two piston calipers. There, discussion started 😉
Having 4 pistons instead of 2 doubles the braking pressure, the lever piston is also important though. 4 piston brakes have a larger pad, and if coupled with a bigger rotor this will increase the braking further. Personally I find a 2 piston Shimano SLX setup a good compromise between cost and capability. I’ve never been able to get Level and Avid brakes to work for me. I swapped 4 piston Level brakes for 2 piston SLX and it was a massive improvement. Finally 4 piston callipers dissipate heat better. But in the UK I am never on such a descent where I feel the need for a 4 piston setup. Personal opinion would be go for a bigger rotor.
@@fatbikemontage2931 Almost correct. The pressure is the same but the force is double, and that means the friction is greater. It basically becomes two breaks in parallell, each with the same pressure but together the force is double. And heat dissipation is a good point. It will be both a larger area to dissipate heat, and since the pressure can be kept lower than on a two piston break which would require twice the pressure to aquire the same force, then he the heat generation per area is also less. But the same thing would apply to a larger two piston caliper, which was what the original question was about. It would just not be as practical in shape or function. Edit: This is assuming that each piston is the same size in both 2 and 4 piston calipers and that the break pads for 4 piston are also 2 times as large. It might in fact be that they are not really twice the size, and then the pressure might be a bit higher as your write (assuming the pistons generate twice the force). It alls comes down to each model I guess.
If you guys had a chance to upgrade, would you do an nx to an gx axs setup? Or upgrade a rockshox deluxe plus to a rockshox deluxe ultimate? I can't seem to decide.
The last Enduro race I was at, almost everyone was on carbon rims. They have all discovered the truth, you will annihilate an aluminum rim before you break a carbon one. So you can run a rim that you have to bodge on the trail or one you won't. Also, nobody lifetime warranties aluminum rims.
You missed the point here. The pros don't care about destroying or folding the rims. What they care is that they hold up 'till the end of the stage. So if you break your carbon rim - out of the game while you could manage to ride down with an alloy one. Then replace the parts before next stage if need to.
It's still tubeless. With insert, he means a foam insert that sits on the rim and protect it from dings. Google "cushcore" for example. There's also the schwalbe procore which is a inner tube + wheel with high pressure that protect the rim in the same way, however since it use a very high pressure that many mtb rims are not meant to take (no warranty), meaning they can be damaged from it. You basically compress the rim and unload the spokes. The general thing I found when researching myself was that procore is good but finicky due to a dual valve for the inner and outer chamber, as well as the likely void of warranty. Cushcore is the best but really expensive for a piece of foam. And really tricky to install and remove, though it gets easier as you learn the techniques. I use cushcore myself. Hope that helps. I think gmbn or gmbn tech made a video about insets too if you want to know more. Otherwise there's tons of info out there one other channels.
@@ChrisSlash no problem. And I want to clarify that I've not used more than cushcore myself - when I said "researching myself", I was referring to reading reviews, not personal experience. Good luck 🙂
For god sake, please, please switch your helmet(color), it says I'm a princess, not a dude with a beard, leave those girly colors to roadies ^_^...Otherwise, great vid as usual! ;)
Have you raced an Enduro race?
Nope🙄
i got a enduro race planed just don't know how to set up my bike for it
Yes I have raced
Never have
Nope but I used to go mountain biking
I’m doing my first enduro race at the end of this month with two other friends, here in Australia it’s school holidays so my friends have been sessioning the trails that will be in the enduro.
Nice! Good luck 🤘
The backdrop for this video is so AMAZING!
I made an "enduro hardtail" and I hope this applies. Lol.
I’m here Bois ready to learn knowledge from the lords of mountain biking
ua-cam.com/video/iibXDKmTN_Y/v-deo.html
Very good advise - have you found good saddle ... Buy second one because at the moment you want to change it will not be available. To find one that suits perfectly is long lasting.
Can't see the bike for the Dolomite's in the background, love the Tyrol/Garda region.
Gotta give Monte Baldo a go on a bike when I make it back.
Set my HT enduro…. Get on n send it
thanks Rich. I really liked this video
You guys have done bits to the cinematography content... so aesthetic 👏
Great stuff as always!👍 love the video’s you put out for our viewing pleasure and entertainment❤️ looking forward to seeing you next time! Thank You!
I'd really like to see some testing comparing bigger front rotor to bigger back rotor. IMO you'd want equal size or have the rear rotor be bigger in order to allow more cooling. My rear brake gets used a lot more than the front, I'll drag the rear to control my speed since mountain bikes don't have the engine breaking that a dirtbike has. Same reason I run metallic pads in the back, but left resin up front
Motorcycles almost always have bigger rotors for more stopping power in the front. Even two-strokes that have nearly zero engine braking. When you use the brakes hard the weight transfers to the front. Under the heaviest braking the rear tire has nearly zero weight on it or is sometimes even floating. The rear brake then becomes useless.
The front brake is the one getting the work done.
@@Tzed250 I’m referring more to the light rear braking use to control your speed vs coming to a full stop. The way i ride is: rear brake to control speed/ slow down a bit, front brake to really slow down/ stop
Code rsc with 180mm up front is plenty of power to come to a stop, it get used less so pretty much never suffers from fade. Also running 180mm in the rear and usually i don’t get much fade, but they heat up very often.
That’s where my line of thinking is coming from: bigger rear for cooling, not for outright power
@@Alex-12381
I hardly use my rear brake. ;)
Keen to understand more about why you seem to have a strong stance against carbon wheels for racing. Have there been tests (or from your own experience) that suggests that they are more fragile? A video on this alone would be good. Rather than the 'more expensive = better ' approach, what are the characteristics/ functionality to consider and what are the real world impacts.
Cheers!
Hey man, I know you asked this question a year ago haha, but it’s not because they’re more fragile than alloy, it’s just because a heavy impact on an alloy rim creates a dent which is fixable. On a carbon rim it would crack. For xc and dh, this isn’t a problem, however in enduro, you can’t change wheels or other major bike parts between stages, so if your carbon rim breaks, you’re out for the day
I've been on my first enduro race with hardtail 2 days ago
new favourite presenter i think
I still opt to a humble trail bike set up...hehe
Nice tips bro
This video is “the way to go forward”
Great tip on getting a spare! It's actually my default esp. specific component/parts tend to become easily ouy-of-stock or production ceased.
I have a 2017 model MTB. I'm beginning to experience parts scarcity. Even the local bikeshops nearby don't have the parts that I need, even having the difficulty to source parts. #KeepBiking
It went together easily in less than an hour. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Make sure the front fork is forward or the pedals will hit the front tire. Tires are both a little soft so it needs air before I ride it. The rear wheel didn't come with a clamp regular bolts hold it on. The front had the clamp. No scratches out of box. Rims are a little off with a slight wobble. They could have spent more time with the spoke tool fixing the run out. So far out of the box I'm happy with it. I did replace the pedals with a nice aftermarket set. After riding it a bit my A$$ is a bit sore so I ordered another seat. Overall I'm nearly 60 and didn't ride a bike in 30 years. I like my new 29" Schwinn. It will be used for casual rides with my friend.
I've trolled many of your videos and love your passion for putting out information. 20+ years ago I raced XC. Recently purchased a trail bike (Norco Fluid) and am interested in possibly racing once again. The Enduro racing look like an absolute blast. Any tips on getting the Fluid into an entry level Enduro bike?
Beefy’r tyres. Short stem wide bars. Strap all tools on the bike. Maybe bushfire so you don’t ruin rims.
sell it and get a unicycle
@@laurynasjagelo5075 so helpful. Thank you for the amazing insight.
"air is king" now I'm really confused if I should get air or coil for an upgrade.
My Enduro (Cube Fritzz) has FOX 180 in front and 180 in the back. Is that too much if most of my riding is going to be up and down trails? Also...Should I go tubeless (It's tubeless ready)
Have you had any issues with the chain guide rubbing in the lower gears on the Giga? If I’m in the smallest or second smaller gear my chain rubs up against it and I can’t find a way to adjust it and I don’t want my chain coming off during downhill
This guy reminds me of the tall bad guy in Home Alone.
What stem length is good for a enduro bike setup??
Allu Bar Carbon Rim Coil Shock is basic
What for straps are you using on the bike to fix you spare tubes?
Box Two prime 9 all the way :D 10-50 range and wayyyyy more durable
I have box 3 p9 and I like it a lot.
aren't the fins on brake pads to let heat out better instead of letting air in?
It increases the surface area for colder air to interact with a hot caliper , heat doesn't get out if air doesn't get in so both
@@CarkeekW actually, heat can dissipate even without interaction with air, by radiation. Radiation can pass a vacuum, and that's pretty good, otherwise we would not feel any warmth from the sun.
Then, air will also help via convection. So both mechanisms are active, but I would have to say that the way Rich put it, it sounds like the fins are to draw air into the caliper between the pads, and that is definitely not the way they work.
🤓
@@widkin Yep its like NACA ducts on flat floors or ducts on a hood for cars. They dont allow air in (that would be bad), they instead use the suction from the air passing over them to pull the hot air out of where it needs out. It's a pretty easy misconception to think that you want "cool" air into a compartment, but really you want the air out. It's not a radiator :)
Do same For dh set up plz
What saddle is that
Nice helmet
i need to get some money for the enduro bike its so expensive i want to ride enduro too but on a hardtail i have now its not that fun
Hi
@11:11 Isn't "more pistons equals more power" kind of a myth? It all depends on how much contact surface the pistons have in relation to the brake pads and the rotor. If two pistons have more contact surface than four, than two will generate more power to the brakes. So I would argue that four pistons does not generally mean more power, but hey I'm open for discussion. It's the internet after all. :)
Your probably right. The pressure transmitted is proportional to the pressure you can apply in the brake lever, after all.
It works like this: Pressure will be the same throughout the oil, and since the area of the inside of the piston is larger than the area of the piston in the brake lever, the actual force on the piston from the oil is greater (force = pressure times area). It's the same principle as a lifting jack for a car.
This also means that one large or two smaller pistons per side makes no difference, it the total area that is in contact with the oil that is important.
However, I'm sure that it is easier to make pistons cylindrical than any other shape (they almost always are) and that would mean that a two piston caliper would have to be much higher to work, and that would require wider disc rotors.
And there I think we have the reason for using four piston instead of larger two piston calipers.
There, discussion started 😉
Having 4 pistons instead of 2 doubles the braking pressure, the lever piston is also important though. 4 piston brakes have a larger pad, and if coupled with a bigger rotor this will increase the braking further. Personally I find a 2 piston Shimano SLX setup a good compromise between cost and capability. I’ve never been able to get Level and Avid brakes to work for me. I swapped 4 piston Level brakes for 2 piston SLX and it was a massive improvement.
Finally 4 piston callipers dissipate heat better. But in the UK I am never on such a descent where I feel the need for a 4 piston setup. Personal opinion would be go for a bigger rotor.
@@fatbikemontage2931 Almost correct. The pressure is the same but the force is double, and that means the friction is greater. It basically becomes two breaks in parallell, each with the same pressure but together the force is double.
And heat dissipation is a good point. It will be both a larger area to dissipate heat, and since the pressure can be kept lower than on a two piston break which would require twice the pressure to aquire the same force, then he the heat generation per area is also less.
But the same thing would apply to a larger two piston caliper, which was what the original question was about. It would just not be as practical in shape or function.
Edit: This is assuming that each piston is the same size in both 2 and 4 piston calipers and that the break pads for 4 piston are also 2 times as large. It might in fact be that they are not really twice the size, and then the pressure might be a bit higher as your write (assuming the pistons generate twice the force). It alls comes down to each model I guess.
@@widkinAgreed
If you guys had a chance to upgrade, would you do an nx to an gx axs setup? Or upgrade a rockshox deluxe plus to a rockshox deluxe ultimate? I can't seem to decide.
I wish i have a bike to set up
@@sanderlucioperca Thank You Sir
Anyone know any clubs interested in hosting a charity event in the Southern Peak District be great for any help.
Doesn’t ‘sport’ have ‘t’ in it?
I can give you short tip how set up your enduro bike standard way:
1. Choose most expensive bike
No problem
Wish I had the money to afford an enduro bike
Literally just bought a propane Enduro bike
The last Enduro race I was at, almost everyone was on carbon rims. They have all discovered the truth, you will annihilate an aluminum rim before you break a carbon one. So you can run a rim that you have to bodge on the trail or one you won't. Also, nobody lifetime warranties aluminum rims.
You missed the point here. The pros don't care about destroying or folding the rims. What they care is that they hold up 'till the end of the stage. So if you break your carbon rim - out of the game while you could manage to ride down with an alloy one. Then replace the parts before next stage if need to.
E
So now the tubeless tires aren’t what you want? If my tires blow up I’m gonna send it off a cliff
It's still tubeless. With insert, he means a foam insert that sits on the rim and protect it from dings. Google "cushcore" for example.
There's also the schwalbe procore which is a inner tube + wheel with high pressure that protect the rim in the same way, however since it use a very high pressure that many mtb rims are not meant to take (no warranty), meaning they can be damaged from it. You basically compress the rim and unload the spokes.
The general thing I found when researching myself was that procore is good but finicky due to a dual valve for the inner and outer chamber, as well as the likely void of warranty. Cushcore is the best but really expensive for a piece of foam. And really tricky to install and remove, though it gets easier as you learn the techniques. I use cushcore myself.
Hope that helps. I think gmbn or gmbn tech made a video about insets too if you want to know more. Otherwise there's tons of info out there one other channels.
@@widkin thank you I appreciate it. I’ll look into it for sure 👌🏼
@@ChrisSlash no problem. And I want to clarify that I've not used more than cushcore myself - when I said "researching myself", I was referring to reading reviews, not personal experience.
Good luck 🙂
Not sure what is up with the pink helmets. Leave those to GCN/EMBN.
First
That guy looks like Marv from home alone
No way did you do enduro mate your an xc man i think
For god sake, please, please switch your helmet(color), it says I'm a princess, not a dude with a beard, leave those girly colors to roadies ^_^...Otherwise, great vid as usual! ;)
It's just a color
@@Triumphstreettriplewheelies Dude the colour looks sick. And stop using the word gay like this.
All I read was "fragile masculinity" from your comments Shifty S and Lee Fletcher