Hola. Muchas gracias por elaborar videos tan explicativos y con mucho profesionalismo. Tengo una pregunta. ¿Me puede servir esta herramienta para cortar Mármol, Granito y Cuarzo? Si no es así, ¿Qué herramienta de corte con riel me puedes recomendar para este tipo de material, y que esté dentro de un costo razonable? Saludos.
Puede cortar hasta 1,2 cm de granito, pero será lento. Intente encontrar la sierra blue ripper o blue ripper jr. Lo usé durante varios años en mi antiguo negocio de granito. Asequible para ti.
The saw is one of the best mashine that I found❤. But the track is the last garbage. The saw is Always popping out. I will be returning back to the store. Will be looking for something else
@porcelainpanelpro the track are not getting loose. Self saw is popping out of track. I have sigma weat cut that is on track also and I can use only 2 fingers by pushing that saw, the track is holding mashine in place. When rubi you have to hold the mashine almost perfect. Sigma is locking the mashine in to the track.
If you don't wanna say counter clockwise. Then its lefty loosy, righty tighty or in this case lefty unloosey righty untighty........ OK I guess left is loose right is tight is the best way to say it LOLs
How does this saw compare to the Dewalt wet/dry tile saw? I need to buy one for an upcoming job. I don't like that it must be used with the track (sold separately). Over $600 to be able to cut, where the Dewalt needs no track and costs $150.
Depending on your blade, rpm, and other factors, your cut might not be straight. Having used several other types of miter saws, the track is a key component for me. It allows you to dictate exactly how sharp of a miter you want or how straight your cut will be. Without a track you might as well be using a hand saw. Blades can and will bend while cutting. Tracks minimize the chances of that.
I have a 24x48 tile install. I'm a tile contractor. I own numerous wet and snap wheel saws. I'm debating on a Rubi bridge saw or this for U and L type cuts. Mitres would be a big plus also. Thoughts?
Thank you for this good review. When I pause the video when you are showing the quality of the cut, I can see the edge has got a little to many chips to my liking unfortunately. Why the hell do they make those saws with up stroke? Of course it will chip the glassing on tiles. I have 1.5 m long niche to cut out in large slaps, looks like I will have to cut it 2mm larger and ,,sand,, out the hell out of it.
sanding by hand a niche is how i would do it myself. No saw will give a perfectly clean cut. I like seeing microchips which is what i achieved with the Rubi. When I glue with epoxy together, it easily sands away. Ill need to do a video shortly of that. The results from the TC125 were better than the $100k miter machine I use on the daily.
Probably best solution is to do a first pass just to score the glazing then do the cut afterwards... Not keen on mitres due to this and the fact it's always going to be a fragile edge!
Thanks brother! This is going to hell me on my current project. I just purchased this product without the rails. They were too expensive for the budget after the saw purchase.. but I made it work with a 4’ level clamped down to the tile..
Lapitec is a great material, but like many thicker slabs in the genre, more rpm with a larger blade and 15-30inches a minute travel speed is required. This often requires a bridge saw of some type. Limiting vibration is a big thing too. The TC125 is really only able to cut material 1/2" (12mm) thick.
@@porcelainpanelpro as far as I know porcelain has to be cutted with periferical speed between 40 and 50 m/s. How do you manage that? Thanks for your help
91.7194 m/s. On a 5" blade, you have approximately 15.7" circumference on the blade, with 13800 rotations per minute. 15.7 x 13800 = 216660in/mn. 216660 / 12" = 18055ft a minute which converts to 5503.164 meters. 5503.164 / 60 seconds = 91.7194 peripherical speed.
Dry/wet blades can be used either way but wet blades must always be used wet. Now, personal preference and observation is that with the tc125 you will always get better results using water to cool and clear the sludge
any suggestions on a blade brand/model for 1mm and thicker porcelain tiles if i want them to come sharp and no chips? I've heard Rubi is phasing out venom and it wasnt as good anyway.
Water water water. I really am a fan of the ecd blade. Cyclone has a viper imitation blade and i personally use a omega diamond blade out of california
My pleasure. Just wait for my TISE/KBIS review coming out in the next few days. 300 clips and multiple interviews. Gonna be a bunch of content from the show.
@@porcelainpanelpro will definitely make those shows next year. I just bought the rubi slim cutter plus. I think I'm going to need this tc125. I need to a 7/16 30x60 tile
@@porcelainpanelpro thank you for replying so fast. I just ordered the saw after having the Rubi snapper track and I can’t figure out how the saw sits on the guide. I’m thinking I have the wrong guide?
Rubi. I have owned the original, worked with the 2nd gen, and just dont need the third for the quality i got with the rubi. However, some guys are hands down about sigma. Just need to find a way to test it i suppose
una máquina caliente significa que está funcionando mal. no luches contra la hoja. deje que la cuchilla haga el trabajo y tal vez necesite cortar 1/8” de profundidad a la vez. -- a hot machine means you are operating wrong. dont fight the blade. let the blade do the work and perhaps you need to cut 1/8” deep at a time.
Hola.
Muchas gracias por elaborar videos tan explicativos y con mucho profesionalismo.
Tengo una pregunta.
¿Me puede servir esta herramienta para cortar Mármol, Granito y Cuarzo?
Si no es así, ¿Qué herramienta de corte con riel me puedes recomendar para este tipo de material, y que esté dentro de un costo razonable?
Saludos.
Puede cortar hasta 1,2 cm de granito, pero será lento. Intente encontrar la sierra blue ripper o blue ripper jr. Lo usé durante varios años en mi antiguo negocio de granito. Asequible para ti.
The saw is one of the best mashine that I found❤. But the track is the last garbage. The saw is Always popping out. I will be returning back to the store. Will be looking for something else
@@sergeihumann1299 i dont think i have had that problem. Are you pushing too hard or do you mean the track comes loose?
@porcelainpanelpro the track are not getting loose. Self saw is popping out of track. I have sigma weat cut that is on track also and I can use only 2 fingers by pushing that saw, the track is holding mashine in place. When rubi you have to hold the mashine almost perfect. Sigma is locking the mashine in to the track.
@@sergeihumann1299 ah. I know what you are saying now.
If you don't wanna say counter clockwise. Then its lefty loosy, righty tighty or in this case lefty unloosey righty untighty........ OK I guess left is loose right is tight is the best way to say it LOLs
I still forget every now and again. In my head i just say its opposite what the phrase is
Great Video well explained, love to talk with you some time, Regards Johnyboy
Anytime my friend. Instagram dm or email me at porcelainpanelpro@gmail.com
How does this saw compare to the Dewalt wet/dry tile saw? I need to buy one for an upcoming job. I don't like that it must be used with the track (sold separately). Over $600 to be able to cut, where the Dewalt needs no track and costs $150.
Depending on your blade, rpm, and other factors, your cut might not be straight. Having used several other types of miter saws, the track is a key component for me. It allows you to dictate exactly how sharp of a miter you want or how straight your cut will be. Without a track you might as well be using a hand saw. Blades can and will bend while cutting. Tracks minimize the chances of that.
I have a 24x48 tile install. I'm a tile contractor. I own numerous wet and snap wheel saws. I'm debating on a Rubi bridge saw or this for U and L type cuts. Mitres would be a big plus also. Thoughts?
I just had a two month ordeal with 24x48 that would not cut for its lift. The tc125 again proved its value by step cutting and giving us clean cuts
The bridge saw we had on site could not handle well enough with standard electricity
Good point. This is a new build. Most outlets at the Contruction phase here are 15-20amp 110v
Thank you for this good review. When I pause the video when you are showing the quality of the cut, I can see the edge has got a little to many chips to my liking unfortunately. Why the hell do they make those saws with up stroke? Of course it will chip the glassing on tiles. I have 1.5 m long niche to cut out in large slaps, looks like I will have to cut it 2mm larger and ,,sand,, out the hell out of it.
sanding by hand a niche is how i would do it myself. No saw will give a perfectly clean cut. I like seeing microchips which is what i achieved with the Rubi. When I glue with epoxy together, it easily sands away. Ill need to do a video shortly of that. The results from the TC125 were better than the $100k miter machine I use on the daily.
@@porcelainpanelpro When you will do such a video?
Probably best solution is to do a first pass just to score the glazing then do the cut afterwards...
Not keen on mitres due to this and the fact it's always going to be a fragile edge!
Donde puedo encontrarla ? Ou peux je trouver cette machine ? Where can i find it ?
Where are you from?
Anyone know if it will run on Festool guide rails
Good question. Ill do some research and try to find out
👌👍
Thank you!
Thanks brother! This is going to hell me on my current project. I just purchased this product without the rails. They were too expensive for the budget after the saw purchase.. but I made it work with a 4’ level clamped down to the tile..
If it was too expensive i might suggest you raise your prices. These are the most affordable on the market
Have you cut sinderstone lapitec with this saw thanks calgary Alberta love your videos
Lapitec is a great material, but like many thicker slabs in the genre, more rpm with a larger blade and 15-30inches a minute travel speed is required. This often requires a bridge saw of some type. Limiting vibration is a big thing too. The TC125 is really only able to cut material 1/2" (12mm) thick.
Ive got family in Edmonton and Calgary! Thanks for the kind remarks!
@@porcelainpanelpro awesome its nice place up here thanks for your response
hi, which is the periferical speed that are you working on? your track saw is has a very high rpm device
That is a very detailed question. I will have to ask myself and let you know as I am not sure.
@@porcelainpanelpro as far as I know porcelain has to be cutted with periferical speed between 40 and 50 m/s. How do you manage that? Thanks for your help
91.7194 m/s. On a 5" blade, you have approximately 15.7" circumference on the blade, with 13800 rotations per minute. 15.7 x 13800 = 216660in/mn. 216660 / 12" = 18055ft a minute which converts to 5503.164 meters. 5503.164 / 60 seconds = 91.7194 peripherical speed.
Better than dc-250 rubi system?
And do you have speed regulation? For clean cuts must have around Max 2500 rpm. Clean cut without post grinding...
The dc-250 is a completely different machine for a different process. Not really something we could compare.
Good Video.
Thanks!
@2:15 Do I see correct dat the Rubi Premium Vip Turbo Mesh (31927) is recommended for dry cutting but used wet in the video?
Dry/wet blades can be used either way but wet blades must always be used wet. Now, personal preference and observation is that with the tc125 you will always get better results using water to cool and clear the sludge
Previše vode
No such thing. More water the better to keep tools and material cool. If the tile heats up, thermal expansion occurs and it is prone to chip
any suggestions on a blade brand/model for 1mm and thicker porcelain tiles if i want them to come sharp and no chips? I've heard Rubi is phasing out venom and it wasnt as good anyway.
Water water water. I really am a fan of the ecd blade. Cyclone has a viper imitation blade and i personally use a omega diamond blade out of california
Super 👷👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Thank you for this video
My pleasure. Just wait for my TISE/KBIS review coming out in the next few days. 300 clips and multiple interviews. Gonna be a bunch of content from the show.
@@porcelainpanelpro will definitely make those shows next year. I just bought the rubi slim cutter plus. I think I'm going to need this tc125. I need to a 7/16 30x60 tile
@@chargedx1 make sure you get the rubi ecd blade. My favorite blade on the market
Does the saw use the same track as the Rubi slim snapper?
Yes it does
@@porcelainpanelpro thank you for replying so fast. I just ordered the saw after having the Rubi snapper track and I can’t figure out how the saw sits on the guide. I’m thinking I have the wrong guide?
Never mind I figured it out. I have gen 1 guides and bought the gen 2 saw.
@@Freshcheez its as if companies want to sell more than one unit…
@@porcelainpanelpro Lol they sent the wrong saw. It did not say anywhere it was gen2 and didn’t work with gen1 tracks (that I already had)
Great vid thanks
Your most welcome
Finally! 🙏🏼
had so much to go over, took a touch longer. great tool tho for sure
What do you prefer to use for mitering the slabs ? That Rubi or Sigma Jolly ?
Rubi. I have owned the original, worked with the 2nd gen, and just dont need the third for the quality i got with the rubi. However, some guys are hands down about sigma. Just need to find a way to test it i suppose
Hi I got the. Saw but not the track guide where Can I buy it , is floor and decor Saling it please let me thanks
Buy the score and snap cutter, the slim cutter plus. It will have the track with it
But i think you can order the track by itself online
Thanks bro
The worse tile cutter that I know
Then you need to test more tools my friend.
Планируется ли выпуск новой пилы? С регулировкой скорости и ходом диска в другую сторону?
нет - No.
Wastes alot of water
Water is your friend cutting porcelain or dekton. Cleans and cools. When the tile heats up it runs higher risk of blowouts or chips.
Es muy mala la maquina no compren se calienta muchísimo solo cortando 2 metros
una máquina caliente significa que está funcionando mal. no luches contra la hoja. deje que la cuchilla haga el trabajo y tal vez necesite cortar 1/8” de profundidad a la vez.
--
a hot machine means you are operating wrong. dont fight the blade. let the blade do the work and perhaps you need to cut 1/8” deep at a time.