@@HonestHans365 not on this one ! But it really is something you can’t anticipate sadly, even from one card to another (same model, same serie). Capping fps tend to reduce coil whine usually, undervolting works sometimes… sometimes nothing works 😌
@@Custom_PC_Keebs A few months ago I upgraded from an MSI X2 4070 to a GeForce RTX™ 4070 Ti SUPER 16G GAMING X SLIM. Unfortunately the latter produce coilwhine in some games like Miles Morales. Whether VRR is on or off can affect coilwhine to! Performance is stable and excellent but maybe I need to upgrade my PSU 650watt to stop coilwhine but I also don't want to spend the money on one and not see an improvement.
@@HonestHans365 Start by capping FPS in games (like 20FPS above your screen refresh rate). Then you can slightly undervolt the card (many tutorials online, it is very easy). All that is free before buying a new PSU.
@@Custom_PC_Keebs My GPU and CPU are undervolted. I play on an LG C1 and usually cap frame rate at 120. I'll try capping it at 140-150 and see whether it makes a different. Great tip. Thankfully it's not an issue that effect me in all games but in Miles Morales it horrible and can in a few other titles increase or decrease depending on settings or whether I'm in the title manu or in the game.
It's cool, but only as an art piece. To cool something decent, at least 4080s, you need 3x240 or 2x360 space of rads and push/pull to be quiet as well. It's just physics, 600w must go somewhere :) Water-cooling something below 4080s doesn't really make sense. 4090 to go, but extra 600$+ could be hard to justify for some ppl.
There is a lot going on here. Let me try to answer properly 😉 First of all thanks for the support and comment ! Now. It actually makes sense here. Cooling has been thoughtfully planned in a way where form meets function. This was actually my main gaming PC for the past month. Individually, watercooling a 4070 ti Super is not worth it. Stock aircoolers on GPU are great these days. But also massive. So first thing here : space saving and ease of use. This thing can be moved by one hand very easily (top of the chassis acts like handle). Footprint is very tiny. Second thing is : it allows to take heat away from the passively cooled CPU and we will talk about that later. You don’t wanna blow hot air on a passive radiator. Now let’s talk passive. As an open air build, we want it to be as silent as possible. We start of course by the NH-P1 to passively cool CPU. Perfect for gaming workload on gaming CPUs (13400F). Not good for heavy CPU tasks but form meets function and function here is gaming. Then we go for semi passive GPU cooling and there the thick 240mm rad comes in. It is a very thick rad with a specific internal pattern designed for low airflow. But we don’t have low airflow here ? Indeed. This allowed me to program fans behavior based on coolant temperature. Below 30deg, they are simply stopped. So on idle, the only moving part is the pump. It is a D5 mounted on rubber feets running at a fixed value of 30%. Can’t hear it. When heavy games are played, fans are in movement of course but never full power. Could have done even better and more accurate by programming fans on a temperature difference (between in and out of the cooling system but openair meens you need to think cable clutter so I didn’t wanna add more sensors than necessary).
@@Custom_PC_Keebs Man, I want to repeat myself, I'm not sure how that could make any sense, unless it's meant to be an art piece... You shouldn't went down the rabbit hole with all that nonsense about 'programming' fans and rest bs; I don't see how anyone even slightly tech-savvy would use the word 'programming' when talking about adjusting fan speed :) I assume you are PROGRAMMING you HVAC to run home temp at 21c you telling me that 320w can be dissipated QUIETLY using quite thick 240rad and only 2 fans ? :) you are full of sh.... man :) all your story you are trying to sell is full of shit after that statement; And the reason why I think it is BS because 4070ti s & 4080s have the same TDP - 320W; I'm using 7800 x3d & 4080s; The difference between my & yours config is 55W (7800 x3d is 120w vs 65w of 13400F). I had to put 3x240 same rads you are using but in push&pull config (NF-A12x25) and make it set at 30% to be dead quiet at
@jd6197 ho well didn’t know you meant that on an aggressive tone. In that case let me be more clear. You are confusing tdp/actual power consumption and most importantly calories that needs to be evacuated by radiator. You know absolutely nothing about what you are talking about. You think that 4080s and 4070tiS have same cooling needs. You only rely on radiator surface when thickness, flow, fan and pump behavior are equally important. Most of all, you can’t understand the fact that, all that bull”””” aside, if coolant temperature stays low…well components are fine too (or your coolant doesn’t cool components and that is another problem). If you really need that much cooling power for 7800x3d + 4080S…you simply did something wrong and cannot build a PC. These are components that can be aircooled and 7800x3d doesn’t really go high on OC nor power draw.
@@Custom_PC_Keebs SILENCE is the word... and you are not magician, the fans you are using are not the quietest, the rad you are using is making a lot of noise when air passes at speeds you need to spin using 2 rads. you configuration is nonsense ; bunch of folks noted the same; yet, it look catchy, but it is nonsense after all :) you are talking about computer "building" like any real building was involved, lol... you assembled it :) But I really bult mine using file, saw, sheet aluminum and maker beam extruders :), then I assembled the pc components into it. I did it because apart from singularity nobody makes a case which makes sense for a water cooling. If you didn't know, 99.99% of all energy computer components draw is going into HEAT; and if you didn't get it, I stated water temp AFTER it leaves the LAST radiator, when all heat is gone; the reason why the OUT temp is important is a limitation on a pump, it "melts" at 60c; my fist rad goes quite wormy, I would say 50c+, but I don't really care cause it is not important :) piece man! good luck with the channel, but you need to stop saying BS; there is nothing wrong to have a senseless art piece; but gaslighting ppl is another thing a lot of ppl made same comment - costly "design" with a mediocre performance :)
@jd6197 I like the fact that you try to be very accurate and picky on words. You insisted on the inappropriate use of “programming” (I guess you never used aquasuite but you should know it is very “command line based” so this can be discussed. But not the point). Now you trick me into definition of “building” and you think I gaslight. But in the same message you say “bunch of folks” and “a lot of ppl” noticed same thing as you. So I fact checked to be accurate as you are. And noted only one troll comment that disappeared the second I asked for examples of build. Then I remembered you started all this by shouting something about TDP. I should have stopped there, knowing immediately you know absolutely nothing. TDP is useless and is even calculated differently from one brand to another. It finally appeared when I read your sh talk from the beginning that you are begging for attention for your own build. You describe it all along while it is absolutely not relevant for the discussion. But let me give you a non-computer advice. You should be more respectful and have less ego. I love singularity and I’m glad they made it to your respect area but, boy, there are so many great options, cases, creations. Community is great, mostly helpful and we are not interested by angry trolls like you. Specially with so poor knowledge and experience. I will leave you with your “melting” pump 😅 you ended me here. First go to school and learn that power dissipation is proportional , for a said flow rate, to the temperature difference between in and out of a component. Not only out. As I said in my first message. No gaslighting here. Just read a book. Second, please build watercooling for real, not the piece of junk you described all along, use it for real, use it for months, years. Monitor it. And discover that in a normally built PC, temp difference between in and out hardly goes up to 5 degrees. So if you think/if you already are reaching 60 out or close to this… dismantle everything (do us that favor) and rebuild if better. Maybe with less radiator and more brain.
@angrypooper7186 one could think that you absolutely don’t know what you are talking about and that this comment is totally unnecessary but it’d be only half-true. In fact you definitely don’t know much about pc builds. Nor much about humans social behaviors. But comments are massively helping the video and channel to grow (algorithm loves comments) so…thanks for taking the time to drop a small amount of your existential issues here !
this channel deserves more sub
Thanks 🙏 Appreciate that a lot! Hope it will interest more people with time
Wow,sounds like a game-changer for anyone looking to elevate their video quality! Thanks for sharing!
That thumbnail looks so damn good man
@@SuperJimBobJoe thanks so much!! (I spent some time on it 🤓)
Crazy build! 😮
Thanks guys ! For support AND for inspiration 💪
This is a work of art ❤
Thanks a lot 😍 couldn’t be done without support, it means everything
Super cool looking build
@@fairycat thanks a lot 🙏
hermoso ensamble
Muchas gracias 🙏
Beautiful build man! That cooler though:)
Thanks ! NH-P1 is something, he ?!
@@Custom_PC_Keebs definitely:)
A work of art! Any coil whine or high pitched noises?
@@HonestHans365 not on this one ! But it really is something you can’t anticipate sadly, even from one card to another (same model, same serie). Capping fps tend to reduce coil whine usually, undervolting works sometimes… sometimes nothing works 😌
@@HonestHans365 and thanks for the support of course !
@@Custom_PC_Keebs A few months ago I upgraded from an MSI X2 4070 to a GeForce RTX™ 4070 Ti SUPER 16G GAMING X SLIM. Unfortunately the latter produce coilwhine in some games like Miles Morales.
Whether VRR is on or off can affect coilwhine to! Performance is stable and excellent but maybe I need to upgrade my PSU 650watt to stop coilwhine but I also don't want to spend the money on one and not see an improvement.
@@HonestHans365 Start by capping FPS in games (like 20FPS above your screen refresh rate). Then you can slightly undervolt the card (many tutorials online, it is very easy). All that is free before buying a new PSU.
@@Custom_PC_Keebs My GPU and CPU are undervolted. I play on an LG C1 and usually cap frame rate at 120. I'll try capping it at 140-150 and see whether it makes a different. Great tip.
Thankfully it's not an issue that effect me in all games but in Miles Morales it horrible and can in a few other titles increase or decrease depending on settings or whether I'm in the title manu or in the game.
Very Nice.
@@amirthry thanks for the support! New video on this chassis with full custom loop drops tomorrow 🤗 don’t forget to activate notifications 📣
Может стоить накинуть на вентиляторы нейлоновые магнитные пылевые фильтры. Мне понравилась сборка!
Thanks 🙏
It's cool, but only as an art piece.
To cool something decent, at least 4080s, you need 3x240 or 2x360 space of rads and push/pull to be quiet as well. It's just physics, 600w must go somewhere :)
Water-cooling something below 4080s doesn't really make sense. 4090 to go, but extra 600$+ could be hard to justify for some ppl.
There is a lot going on here. Let me try to answer properly 😉
First of all thanks for the support and comment !
Now. It actually makes sense here. Cooling has been thoughtfully planned in a way where form meets function. This was actually my main gaming PC for the past month.
Individually, watercooling a 4070 ti Super is not worth it. Stock aircoolers on GPU are great these days. But also massive. So first thing here : space saving and ease of use. This thing can be moved by one hand very easily (top of the chassis acts like handle). Footprint is very tiny.
Second thing is : it allows to take heat away from the passively cooled CPU and we will talk about that later. You don’t wanna blow hot air on a passive radiator.
Now let’s talk passive. As an open air build, we want it to be as silent as possible. We start of course by the NH-P1 to passively cool CPU. Perfect for gaming workload on gaming CPUs (13400F). Not good for heavy CPU tasks but form meets function and function here is gaming.
Then we go for semi passive GPU cooling and there the thick 240mm rad comes in. It is a very thick rad with a specific internal pattern designed for low airflow. But we don’t have low airflow here ? Indeed. This allowed me to program fans behavior based on coolant temperature. Below 30deg, they are simply stopped. So on idle, the only moving part is the pump. It is a D5 mounted on rubber feets running at a fixed value of 30%. Can’t hear it. When heavy games are played, fans are in movement of course but never full power. Could have done even better and more accurate by programming fans on a temperature difference (between in and out of the cooling system but openair meens you need to think cable clutter so I didn’t wanna add more sensors than necessary).
@@Custom_PC_Keebs Man, I want to repeat myself, I'm not sure how that could make any sense, unless it's meant to be an art piece...
You shouldn't went down the rabbit hole with all that nonsense about 'programming' fans and rest bs; I don't see how anyone even slightly tech-savvy would use the word 'programming' when talking about adjusting fan speed :) I assume you are PROGRAMMING you HVAC to run home temp at 21c
you telling me that 320w can be dissipated QUIETLY using quite thick 240rad and only 2 fans ? :) you are full of sh.... man :) all your story you are trying to sell is full of shit after that statement;
And the reason why I think it is BS because 4070ti s & 4080s have the same TDP - 320W; I'm using 7800 x3d & 4080s; The difference between my & yours config is 55W (7800 x3d is 120w vs 65w of 13400F). I had to put 3x240 same rads you are using but in push&pull config (NF-A12x25) and make it set at 30% to be dead quiet at
@jd6197 ho well didn’t know you meant that on an aggressive tone. In that case let me be more clear. You are confusing tdp/actual power consumption and most importantly calories that needs to be evacuated by radiator. You know absolutely nothing about what you are talking about. You think that 4080s and 4070tiS have same cooling needs. You only rely on radiator surface when thickness, flow, fan and pump behavior are equally important. Most of all, you can’t understand the fact that, all that bull”””” aside, if coolant temperature stays low…well components are fine too (or your coolant doesn’t cool components and that is another problem).
If you really need that much cooling power for 7800x3d + 4080S…you simply did something wrong and cannot build a PC. These are components that can be aircooled and 7800x3d doesn’t really go high on OC nor power draw.
@@Custom_PC_Keebs SILENCE is the word... and you are not magician, the fans you are using are not the quietest, the rad you are using is making a lot of noise when air passes at speeds you need to spin using 2 rads. you configuration is nonsense ; bunch of folks noted the same; yet, it look catchy, but it is nonsense after all :)
you are talking about computer "building" like any real building was involved, lol... you assembled it :) But I really bult mine using file, saw, sheet aluminum and maker beam extruders :), then I assembled the pc components into it. I did it because apart from singularity nobody makes a case which makes sense for a water cooling.
If you didn't know, 99.99% of all energy computer components draw is going into HEAT; and if you didn't get it, I stated water temp AFTER it leaves the LAST radiator, when all heat is gone; the reason why the OUT temp is important is a limitation on a pump, it "melts" at 60c; my fist rad goes quite wormy, I would say 50c+, but I don't really care cause it is not important :)
piece man! good luck with the channel, but you need to stop saying BS; there is nothing wrong to have a senseless art piece; but gaslighting ppl is another thing
a lot of ppl made same comment - costly "design" with a mediocre performance :)
@jd6197 I like the fact that you try to be very accurate and picky on words. You insisted on the inappropriate use of “programming” (I guess you never used aquasuite but you should know it is very “command line based” so this can be discussed. But not the point). Now you trick me into definition of “building” and you think I gaslight.
But in the same message you say “bunch of folks” and “a lot of ppl” noticed same thing as you. So I fact checked to be accurate as you are. And noted only one troll comment that disappeared the second I asked for examples of build.
Then I remembered you started all this by shouting something about TDP. I should have stopped there, knowing immediately you know absolutely nothing. TDP is useless and is even calculated differently from one brand to another.
It finally appeared when I read your sh talk from the beginning that you are begging for attention for your own build. You describe it all along while it is absolutely not relevant for the discussion.
But let me give you a non-computer advice. You should be more respectful and have less ego. I love singularity and I’m glad they made it to your respect area but, boy, there are so many great options, cases, creations. Community is great, mostly helpful and we are not interested by angry trolls like you. Specially with so poor knowledge and experience.
I will leave you with your “melting” pump 😅 you ended me here. First go to school and learn that power dissipation is proportional , for a said flow rate, to the temperature difference between in and out of a component. Not only out. As I said in my first message. No gaslighting here. Just read a book. Second, please build watercooling for real, not the piece of junk you described all along, use it for real, use it for months, years. Monitor it. And discover that in a normally built PC, temp difference between in and out hardly goes up to 5 degrees. So if you think/if you already are reaching 60 out or close to this… dismantle everything (do us that favor) and rebuild if better. Maybe with less radiator and more brain.
The black gloves were totally unnecessary, but seems like humans need to imitate each other to feel that they belong to the herd.
@angrypooper7186 one could think that you absolutely don’t know what you are talking about and that this comment is totally unnecessary but it’d be only half-true. In fact you definitely don’t know much about pc builds. Nor much about humans social behaviors.
But comments are massively helping the video and channel to grow (algorithm loves comments) so…thanks for taking the time to drop a small amount of your existential issues here !
why would you do this to expensive components?
Do what ?
@@Custom_PC_Keebs make a absolute crap pile, just because you can do a thing doesn't mean you should
@HarryG88 thanks for your constructive review 🥹 I’ll take note of it. (Just for my own sake, why are you so angry online ?)
@@Custom_PC_Keebsthere is no anger in my comment, just bewilderment
@HarryG88 ho ok ! Would you kindly link me here a build that you consider well done/beautiful ? So I can get better !