Excellent video. Exactly what I needed to see and know for my 1994 F350 7.3D. These past two weeks every-time I fix a fuel leak it begins to leak somewhere else (probably because of higher pressures levels after stopping leaks former leaks :). This leak you show is now my third new leak area. Glad to see the fix is not difficult or expensive. Thanks!
Thank you for the informative. Your fuel heater is the newer design for the 7.3L. That part cost $173.95 at Ford dealer, I want to repair mine so I didn't buy it.. My truck is "89 with 7.3 litter and the heater looks different than yours. There are two o-rings that mount the heater assy, one oring places on the spade connecter and the other one outside (just like the one that you replace in the video.) Ford dealer tech told me the o-ring is not rate for fuel so I can use standard o-ring. I bought #240 O-ring at Home Depot for $2.77 pack of 10. I replaced and so far there's no leak. The dimension for #240 is 3/4" x 5/8" x 1/16. The inside O-ring (spade connecter) measure is .0625" (1/16" x 1/2 x 5/8) I couldn't find the match o-ring so I wrap 1 layer of 0.002" Teflon tape at the base then roll the o-ring over it, put a thin o-ring lube and slide the heater element back to heater case. So far there is no leak and I hope I will get the other 100K miles from it.
Very good video and straight to the point without all the hard work and searching for tools and talking to the dog and yelling at the kids like the other posters do even though you spelled fuel wrong. Thank you
Pull this thing out, looks just like that, regular thread...badda boom badda bing...done. Simple easy explanation...thank you for not overcomplicating the whole thingus of the thing. :)
all it takes is a seep ..the air that seeps in is alot thinner than fuel and will let your fuel run back into the tank...causing higher stress levels and I use an air wrench to remove the 1.250 nut sized fitting
Mine seems to seep right at the brass electrical fuel heater connector, I've read that there IS a second small o ring below that connector, you have to push a small tab by the electrical connection straight and push on the metal connector from top, the metallic essembly should separate from the plastic from below and expose the oring. I have not done that yet.
I couldnt see your O-ring on the electrical component. Did you use a standard O-ring? Ford told me it is no longer available, and I cant use a standard O-ring because it is not rated for diesel fuel use. What worked for you? The mechanical steps you shared were very helpful, thanks.
Thanks! My 94 is leaking in the same spot. My problem is- why can't I get the top electrical connection off? Is there an o ring or something? I don't want to break it. Thanks again. You saved me some $!!
@@buickdude69 take a flat head and pry it on all sides and it will pop off but as im typing this i realize im replying to a 4 year old question lol anyways mine was desintegrated and the metal connection in the wire of mine simply fell out lol
I had fuel coming outta my fuel filter by that old o-ring & also the fuel filter heating connector. Friend & me JB welded but now no electrical connection to fuel heating element. Heard the plastic/metal part on the underside of housing costs nigh $100. Trying Pick A Part yard to see if used parts there. Its a pain to not have the fuel heat connection on startup
Theres no need to undo all the hoses I just remove the filter itself and the golden bolt. To me if its facing up or down theres no difference exept for the fact that if i leave everything the right side, i dont have to remove any fuel
I just thought about it and the one main bolt that you have to remove wasnt that tight in my truck and thats probably why it was leaking because my oring dosnt look that bad. If its really tight you might want to flip it to get extra room for levrage.
Also, the bigger diameter outer ring is not round! It's the square shaped o ring, not tubular like a donut. I tried using the same size but tubular and it leaked pretty good. These are a pain to find. If someone has a source for both o rings tag me and let me know!
Just spent a good amount of money, and all day replacing the o-ring with the exact size, only to have it leak 3x worse. What the fuck, I've fixed everything on this truck with little problems, but if this doesn't get resolved I'm fersure getting rid of the truck
Best how-to video ever. Clear steady view, simple explanation, thorough demonstration, quick, cogent.
Bolting it back in place is genius! I was holding onto it trying to break the filter bolt loose lol
Excellent video. Exactly what I needed to see and know for my 1994 F350 7.3D. These past two weeks every-time I fix a fuel leak it begins to leak somewhere else (probably because of higher pressures levels after stopping leaks former leaks :). This leak you show is now my third new leak area. Glad to see the fix is not difficult or expensive. Thanks!
Thank you for the informative. Your fuel heater is the newer design for the 7.3L. That part cost $173.95 at Ford dealer, I want to repair mine so I didn't buy it..
My truck is "89 with 7.3 litter and the heater looks different than yours. There are two o-rings that mount the heater assy, one oring places on the spade connecter and the other one outside (just like the one that you replace in the video.)
Ford dealer tech told me the o-ring is not rate for fuel so I can use standard o-ring. I bought #240 O-ring at Home Depot for $2.77 pack of 10. I replaced and so far there's no leak. The dimension for #240 is 3/4" x 5/8" x 1/16.
The inside O-ring (spade connecter) measure is .0625" (1/16" x 1/2 x 5/8) I couldn't find the match o-ring so I wrap 1 layer of 0.002" Teflon tape at the base then roll the o-ring over it, put a thin o-ring lube and slide the heater element back to heater case. So far there is no leak and I hope I will get the other 100K miles from it.
My 89 wouldn't come apart. Did your inner assembly just pop out like his or was there another step after removing the middle bolt?
Awesome video!!!...Thank you for taking the time to share this....much appreciated!!
Brilliant instruction. Fast, to the point and all the info we needed. Thanks!
Very good video and straight to the point without all the hard work and searching for tools and talking to the dog and yelling at the kids like the other posters do even though you spelled fuel wrong. Thank you
early289mustang lmao was thinking the same exact thing
Thanks for this video. My 90 is doing the same thing. Now I feel confident doing this myself. Cheers
Pull this thing out, looks just like that, regular thread...badda boom badda bing...done.
Simple easy explanation...thank you for not overcomplicating the whole thingus of the thing. :)
Thank you so much just got the oring kit at harbor freight gonna swap mine tonight
Hey thanks very informative, mine just started to seep there and wasn`t sure if it could be repaired without buying the whole housing.thanks again.
all it takes is a seep ..the air that seeps in is alot thinner than fuel and will let your fuel run back into the tank...causing higher stress levels
and I use an air wrench to remove the 1.250 nut sized fitting
oh and a no start or painfully hard start also
Thanks for taking the time to make this excellent, very helpful video.
Really helfull i have a 94 that has exactly the same problem
Thank you for loading up this videos
Thanks for the video. You know how to make a good video that is straight to the point.
Thank you I've been trying to figure out where exactly it was leaking from
Wow thank you very much... I did everything you did and Wow it works like New👍
Excellent video! Straight forward and to the point. Well done.
Awesome video, been fighting with mine hours. Thank you
Mine seems to seep right at the brass electrical fuel heater connector, I've read that there IS a second small o ring below that connector, you have to push a small tab by the electrical connection straight and push on the metal connector from top, the metallic essembly should separate from the plastic from below and expose the oring. I have not done that yet.
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!! NEEDED THIS AND CAME UP EMPTY TILL I SAW THIS VID!!!
Excellent video, will hopefully help me out tomorrow on my 89
Beautiful! thank you so much! Quick and efficient!
Real good help
I couldnt see your O-ring on the electrical component. Did you use a standard O-ring? Ford told me it is no longer available, and I cant use a standard O-ring because it is not rated for diesel fuel use. What worked for you? The mechanical steps you shared were very helpful, thanks.
Thanks! My 94 is leaking in the same spot. My problem is- why can't I get the top electrical connection off? Is there an o ring or something? I don't want to break it. Thanks again. You saved me some $!!
I have a '92 with the same problem, don't know how to get that electric plug out without breaking it :(
@@buickdude69 take a flat head and pry it on all sides and it will pop off but as im typing this i realize im replying to a 4 year old question lol anyways mine was desintegrated and the metal connection in the wire of mine simply fell out lol
I had fuel coming outta my fuel filter by that old o-ring & also the fuel filter heating connector. Friend & me JB welded but now no electrical connection to fuel heating element. Heard the plastic/metal part on the underside of housing costs nigh $100. Trying Pick A Part yard to see if used parts there. Its a pain to not have the fuel heat connection on startup
Nice video, thank you for this!
awesome vid! thanks. i know what im doing tomorrow haha
Your video is very helpfull!!
great help
Theres no need to undo all the hoses I just remove the filter itself and the golden bolt. To me if its facing up or down theres no difference exept for the fact that if i leave everything the right side, i dont have to remove any fuel
I just thought about it and the one main bolt that you have to remove wasnt that tight in my truck and thats probably why it was leaking because my oring dosnt look that bad. If its really tight you might want to flip it to get extra room for levrage.
u got a part number on that oring
Also, the bigger diameter outer ring is not round! It's the square shaped o ring, not tubular like a donut. I tried using the same size but tubular and it leaked pretty good.
These are a pain to find. If someone has a source for both o rings tag me and let me know!
Thanks for the video. Do you have a suggestion on getting the electric plug to the heater of the top outside without breaking it?
ya when u pull it off the top .. dont break it
thanks
Where can I get an o'ring for it. Ford doesn't have one in the United States.
My truck have the same problem
Just spent a good amount of money, and all day replacing the o-ring with the exact size, only to have it leak 3x worse. What the fuck, I've fixed everything on this truck with little problems, but if this doesn't get resolved I'm fersure getting rid of the truck
doesn't it you use a square a ring instead of a round one
and where do you get the square or ring please