RIP DieseltechRon, you have helped me with my truck many times with your knowledge and i am forever grateful for your help, i am sorry your not with us anymore you are missed very much and by many people. Thank you for all your help and may God bless your family.
Thank you for sharing all your knowledge. I have an 85 F250 6.9 that starts hard just like this. Just bought an Allis Chalmers model D grader I have to work on but now I'm excited to work on old pickup. Was my dad's, sure be nice to get her going again.
Ron, you're my go to guy when it comes to diesel repair videos. You've helped me a TON with my 6.0! I still have two of these old beasts, a 7.3 and a 6.9 and I'd love to see you do some more videos on them if you get a chance.
Thanks! Just bought an 86 F350 dually with 118k miles with the 420 IH diesel. Owner said it ran when parked 15 years ago. Your video helps me plan what to do to get it running.
Ron I got a 6.9 in 85 250 low mileage this is one of my problems… love to see more on 6.9 s …. This is all new to me and love to know more in’s and outs about 6.9
We've got one. The shop wanted to do an injector pump but it wasnt smoking or giving any of the usual symptoms of that. I think you nailed it! Excellent well explained video!
Ron Thanks So glad i found your video I have a 93 7.3 idi I was able to fix my hard starting and surging problem due to the video the washer idea works great tks again John
That was a super helpful video. Thanks a lot to all involved in making and sharing this video. I have a 1986 Ford E350 and have searched high and low for this information.
That is a great video. I didn't understand what folks were speaking of about the connector O rings on the filter housing. Since you pulled the filter housing apart I now understand. Sometimes mine is hard to start after only a few minutes to an hour. When it doesn't start after winding a few rounds I give it a small amount of gas down the intake. It'll instantly start and run fine doing that. I know it's. not good on the engine and need to replace everything as you have mentioned. Last time I replaced the return hoses and O rings I ordered 2 complete cut to length sets of hoses , plastic pcs , and O rings but can't find the other replacement set. Hopefully the plastic pcs will still be good and I'll only replace the hose and O rings.
I'm about to do the return lines on mine, thanks for the sink washer tip. My heater was also leaking, I solved it with a permanent "fix" using diesel proof, water weld putty. It will never leak again, lol.
Good tech video Thanks . My 84 is again running grate starting grate and my fuel mileage is back up to normal. My 6.9 with propane enrichment smokes the power strokes
Thanks a lot! you just gave me the solution for my problems, actually I was going to swap the engine for a cummins, but with this I'll give it another chance
I have hated fords my whole life and Have recently bought a 1992 F-350 IDI 7.3 and it is Amazing. This dudes engine looks super clean. Anyone else who owns this truck please hit me up, I work as a contractor and want to ask questions to anyone who has had more experience with these trucks! Great video, thanks!
Ron, thank you for your excellent video for diagnosing a hard start & stall. My '89 Ford Supper cab has exactly same problem. I fixed the fuel heater leak and replaced all the O-ring (purchased from Ford for ~$16.00). I noticed there was a very small leak on one return line connector, I thought it was OK to use all of the return caps and line so I moved the clamp closer to the larger point of the connector port then it stopped leak. Next day the fuel drain back to the tank. I searched on UA-cam and found your channel. I went to Napa autoparts and order whole fuel return rebuild kit for ~42 bucks. Part will be here tomorrow. This time I hope there won't be any more leak after I fix it for 2nd time. The drain plug washer that you mention comes with kit right? I saw those washer on the picture of the kit. Again thank for your very informative video.
Heck yeah now I know exactly what to do with my 7.3 idi definitely get some drain plug washers but mines got several caps leaking and the fuel heater o ring time to get it right thanks for the video
RIP diesel tech Ron, I just learned the drain plug washer on top of the return cap trick, I have a return cap that won't stop leaking perhaps that might do the trick.
I've worked on a very few of the 7.3 IDI, but the 7.3, 6.0 DI I have them figured out a little more, i know enough about the 6.4 and 6.7 to get myself in trouble
Excellent tip on the washers placed on top of the injector caps, I personally would use slightly thiner st st washers just for starters since there is limited space in there and you do not want to squeeze those plastic caps to tight or that would crack them wide open. My own opinion is that these plastic caps are junk and need to be made out of brass or some kind of metal since plastic in this application is very cheap and always will pose problems. Also I have found that the o-rings supplied with the kits are not fat enough, the diameter as far as I.D is good but they are just not made of a thick enough gauge to really be squeezed tight in the space between the cap and injector, another bad design. The washers are a must but be careful not to use anything thicker than 2 business cards worth of spacing.
Thanks For the info I have 885 with a 6.9 diesel engine never had any problems until now running low on fuel and now when I turn it on and it feels like it wants to stall have air in the syste for the info I have 85 will be 6.9 diesel engine never had any problems until now I ran it low on fuel and now when Istart it it feels like it wants to stall I think I have air in the systemm
I like the drain plug washer tip, i just use some old o-rings to hold the return caps down snuggly, but shouldn`t you put a cap on the shraeder valve I know for a fact, that it is prone to leak air it to the filter from the valve.
Great video My problem is that i put a clear line from the fuel pump to the filter and i see very small minute bubbles randomly when i start the truck where can the be comming from any help would be appericated thanks james
Years ago on my1986 f250 6.9 I had this same problem. It was the water separator mounted on the fire wall after needing to replace it the second time I installed a after market cartridge separator and it took care of the problem. The plunger drain valve would get crud in the seat and not completely seal after draining the water out. Hope this helps someone.
Great video. My 1994 250 turbo IDI ( which normally ran perfectly) Until one day my fuel filter light came on. I changed the filter and it seemed to run well again. However not 50 miles has it been used when it started running rough and then stalling. I noticed that once again the fuel filter light has come on. If I let it set for 5 minutes it starts up again and the same problem can happen all over again. I noticed when I put the new filter on the old one was only half full. Is that a clue leading to the problem or is half full where they run? I do need to check for possible air leaks and wonder what size those drain plug washers are you putting on the injectors. I am little more than a shade tree home mechanic if even that and this is my first diesel engine. Being a disabled senior on SS I have to do every possible thing I can as professional mechanics are really expensive for me. Thank you for this wonderful video. Hope you can reply.
Im having a hard time with mine. If I prime the engine, it will run great at high idle. Once it hit the low idle it start to sound as if its out of fuel. Then if I jump back on top and crack the lines again it runs smooth for a while then stalls. I replaced all cap, return fuel lines, and o-rings. Yet it still turns off. I never knew about the oring on the fuel filter so imma check that out. Also imma try and use the Drain plug washers as well. Is there ANYTHING else Im missing? I know its a simple engine but for some reason its kicking my butt!
hi i have a 95 ford f250 with a 7.3 power stroke the injector cups are bad fuel in the antifreeze and the high pressure oil pump went out i also have a 85 ford f250 with a 6.9 is it possible to put the 6.9 in the 95?
so i got an old 84 6.9 replaced all the caps and return lines no leanks in the filter will run for 25 mils or so and then with no worning shuts off but it will idel all day long i just cant figeuer it any thoughts?
DieselTechRon Thanks for all the great videos Ron! I actually own a 6.4, so some more videos on that engine would be great! Anything about injectors, and the HPFP? Maybe something about common 6.4 problems, and solutions. Thanks again Ron
Thanks for the great tips Ron, what size was those copper washers inside diameter ? And if a truck sat for a year and the water in fuel light came on on a 1991 7.3 idi diesel , what things would you do to get it started ? please help i cant get my truck started . : ( , Mark
I have a 7.3 with a starting prob i put clear lines on the returns and the fuel line from the lift pump to the filter and what happens is when i go to start the truck in the mornings i have to crank till it fires then quits and then on the second time it starts and runs good and the rest of the day it starts first crank starts real quick like normal but sits over nite and the lines have no fuel in them and i was told by the previous owner he replaced the lines, caps and orings and they do look new i put a new ip on it couple months ago before i do the caps and orings again is their anything else that could be causing this prob
hey buddy i was wondering the a/c compressor on this truck isnt factory and was wondering what compressor it came off of and how did they convert the lines? i might be wrong on the factory part but its not the same one thats on mine. thanks man
I saw your tip on using the washers to keep the plastic return line caps down because I have an older 7.3 idi (1988) uhaul (ford) I'm turning into a stealth RV. so anyways. I purchased new injectors, and a new return line kit, as well as motorcraft oem glow plugs. My question is, after bleeding the lines I have a gap of about 1/8" between the top plastic return line caps, and the metal nut for the supply line, and I get fuel coming out of some of the caps. Should this happen on a new install? the caps do go on smoothly, and have a small click when they seat( I did use oil to lube the cap and o-rings to not damage the o-rings. . Any ideas and info would be wonderful. This is my first diesel with only 162,000 miles on it. it ran strong when I picked it up, but I can tell now it has even more power. I picked up the 14' uhaul box truck for $1100 and yes it needs quite a bit of TLC, so yes it's getting a new fuel filter, oil change, Transmission service, then I will go threw the suspension, brakes, and rear dif to make sure she is mechanically sound. Yes I have built many a cars, and trucks, just never played with diesels, LOL
Ron, Thank you for your video that cover the problems of my '89 Ford supercab 7.3 diesel. I did fixed the fuel heater leak and fuel return line fixed. 2 days later I open the fuel filter that is full of fuel. It still has hard start. I checked the voltage to the plug an there wasn't 12V from the electrical post of the relay. The glow plug controller failed to energized the internal switch that connect 12V. I bought a new controller from NAPA, after I replaced the old one, when I turn the key on and the the relay start cycle clicking(click,ckick,click) On the video you said there wasn't enough load to the plugs that cause the problem. All of the AC 32G glow plugs resistance I measure were 0.2 ohms. My question are: 1) What is the resistance for the new plug? 2) Is there any fuse link to the glow plug harness that need to be check? Before I fixed the leak the old controller was working fine to start the engine and stall after fuel running out from the pump then it's bad. Now the new controller wouldn't energize the 12V to the glow plug because low resistance load. Tomorrow I'll buy the new plugs in hope to fix the problem, some how in my mind I thought there was an open electrical circuit to the glow plugs that new controller measures as low resistance or no load. It would be greatly appreciated if Ron or anyone can help me to solve this problem. Tomorrow after I put in the new plugs and if the problem solved I'll let you know. Thanks
Ron, I found the problem of why the glow plugs didn't energize. 12V connector was bad (it mounts on top of the passenger side fender), the connector pins arcing and corroded cause less current flow thru. It indicates 12 V at the input of GP relay but there is not enough current flow thru the GP circuit and the output relay didn't have 12V supply to the GP. I cut two Yellow 10 gauge wires at the connectors and bypass them to the 12V positive (these wires connect to voltage input of the GP relay). After that the engine starts as normal. I bought 8 new Motorcraft GP with 2 measure .3 Ohm 6 other were .2 ohm. The resistance of the new plug from 0.2 ~ 0.3 ohms So the exiting AC 32G resistance are good, the old Glow Plug Controller is good. I'll return the controller and GP to auto-parts store. I learn a lot from yout video. Thanks LV
89 7.3 in an f250. No turbo. I have never ever heard that clicking that we hear in the video, when the glowplugs are 'ready'. I just checked again, this time, turning the key, then standing at the front of the truck with the hood open, and listening for when they were finished. No clicking. But it has never failed to start before this. So I am thinking it is not important that they click. Need to know for certain.
Hi Ron I'm not sure if your still doing the videos anymore or if you still answer questions? But I have to try and see ..you are the best thanks I have a 1986 F350 6.9 and it has a cold start problem and it's driving me crazy I have checked for air leaks and fixed what I found, and I changed the bad glow plugs .and I changed out the mechanical pump .so it started good for about a week and now it's back to the same problem and now I'm stumped can you please help me and give me some ideas to slovimg my problem thanks I appreciate any help you can help me with thanks
My 1990 ford 7.3 diesel power stroke starts at VERY high idle but won't accelerate or decelerate using the fuel pedal or throttle then dies off after few minutes; it what could be the problem? please advise.
i have 94 7.3 that leaks fuel from the PUMP one of the "o' rings leaking is one of the screws i look all auto parts store even Ford dealer to replace but none off them have it. so now i Don't not if i replace the fuel pump or keep up looking for the 'o' rings any idea that can help me?? thanks
i have a 1994 7.3 turbo diesel i am trying to locate a fuel leak i do not have experience with this particular engine. i have found fuel leaking down my front coolant line on the drivers side and also a puddle right behind the turbo. i have also noticed fuel on the fittings of the fuel pump. any advice would be very helpful thanks.
I don't know you seem like you're experienced in these diesels. But have you ever won the controller goes bad switched it over to the button system. My dad had one from 1984 when it was new as time went by he switched it over to the button system. I think the controller went for the glow plugs.
Hello Ron, I have a 99 ford F350 7.3 and it seems to only run when it wants to. I've changed the fuel filter and got 2 brand new batteries, replaced the fuel pump relay switch under the hood and also behind the dash. I went to go crank it up and got nothing but all lights are on the dash. All my glow plugs are fine as well.......any help or suggestions on what I should do next 🤔
... Ron's no longer with us, he passed away in a traffic accident years ago. There's a video talking about his passing. ua-cam.com/video/_43Gs63Bsqk/v-deo.html
Might be a dumb question, but I was wondering the size of the drain plug washer or application that you would use when ordering them at the parts store?
Also a question. Can I use the clear hose from the Home Depot as the return lines on the whole loop? Just thinking it would make spotting the air bubbles easy enough. I use it for gas lines on small engines but the ethenol makes it shrink after a couple seasons . Diesel is lower in ethenol but will the clear hold up for long term use ? Thanks again for this helpful video.
You can, however not long term. The hose will yellow, then become brittle and leak. Or stop by the lawn and garden section and pick up some clear orange Tyvek hose.
I put the copper drain plug washers on top of my caps but they're still all loose do you have any recommendation on what to do are they supposed to still be loose
I would like to know how to figure out what engine is the 7. 3 just by looking at the block and which one is the 6.9 because I liked many videos and believe I have a 7. 3 in my diesel but I have been told by a mechanic it was a 6. 9 and I think he's wrong
Teaching others long past his years on earth. Thanks to the family for allowing his wisdom to enrich lives for many years to come.
I have 3 of these engines now in 2023 and learn some new things there thx
Thank you for letting Ron continue teaching us
Still useful information thats making my life easier this many years later
Thank you Ron
RIP DieseltechRon, you have helped me with my truck many times with your knowledge and i am forever grateful for your help, i am sorry your not with us anymore you are missed very much and by many people. Thank you for all your help and may God bless your family.
Oh no! I just found this video. Has this man left us?
All your videos are so helpful, Rest In Paradise Ron. Thank you!
Thank you for sharing all your knowledge. I have an 85 F250 6.9 that starts hard just like this. Just bought an Allis Chalmers model D grader I have to work on but now I'm excited to work on old pickup. Was my dad's, sure be nice to get her going again.
Ron, you're my go to guy when it comes to diesel repair videos. You've helped me a TON with my 6.0! I still have two of these old beasts, a 7.3 and a 6.9 and I'd love to see you do some more videos on them if you get a chance.
Thanks! Just bought an 86 F350 dually with 118k miles with the 420 IH diesel.
Owner said it ran when parked 15 years ago.
Your video helps me plan what to do to get it running.
Thanks for your expertise , we love your video's helped out a bunch with our 04' 6.0L ,and now with our son's 85 6.9L. Thanks :)
Ron I got a 6.9 in 85 250 low mileage this is one of my problems… love to see more on 6.9 s …. This is all new to me and love to know more in’s and outs about 6.9
Good Job, like the drain plug washer on top of the return line caps. Smart...
Rip Ron! You were the "Diesel Tech of all Tech's"!!
We've got one. The shop wanted to do an injector pump but it wasnt smoking or giving any of the usual symptoms of that.
I think you nailed it!
Excellent well explained video!
Thanks for this video. It really helped a lot. Napa sells the kit with the drain plug washers you mentioned. Thanks again.
Absolutely excellent, thank you for taking the time to post this!
Ron Thanks So glad i found your video I have a 93 7.3 idi I was able to fix my hard starting and surging problem due to the video the washer idea works great tks again John
That was a super helpful video. Thanks a lot to all involved in making and sharing this video. I have a 1986 Ford E350 and have searched high and low for this information.
I have a 6.9 and just learned a bunch. Thank you sir
Great video, exactly what I am looking for. Thank you for your kindness Ron.
That is a great video. I didn't understand what folks were speaking of about the connector O rings on the filter housing. Since you pulled the filter housing apart I now understand. Sometimes mine is hard to start after only a few minutes to an hour. When it doesn't start after winding a few rounds I give it a small amount of gas down the intake. It'll instantly start and run fine doing that. I know it's. not good on the engine and need to replace everything as you have mentioned. Last time I replaced the return hoses and O rings I ordered 2 complete cut to length sets of hoses , plastic pcs , and O rings but can't find the other replacement set. Hopefully the plastic pcs will still be good and I'll only replace the hose and O rings.
Thanks a lot for detailed explanation. Rest in Peace Ron!
A Very Good video here. I shore like the Tip with the Drain Plug's on the Fuel Lines, Very Useful Tip for Me on my truck.
I could listen to that idle all day
I'm about to do the return lines on mine, thanks for the sink washer tip. My heater was also leaking, I solved it with a permanent "fix" using diesel proof, water weld putty. It will never leak again, lol.
Good tech video Thanks .
My 84 is again running grate starting grate and my fuel mileage is back up to normal.
My 6.9 with propane enrichment smokes the power strokes
Thanks a lot! you just gave me the solution for my problems, actually I was going to swap the engine for a cummins, but with this I'll give it another chance
great video thank you! i have this exact problem and wasnt sure until i saw this
I have hated fords my whole life and Have recently bought a 1992 F-350 IDI 7.3 and it is Amazing.
This dudes engine looks super clean. Anyone else who owns this truck please hit me up, I work as a contractor and want to ask questions to anyone who has had more experience with these trucks!
Great video, thanks!
Very good tip on the 7.3s, thanks 👍👍
Great info here love the crush washer idea!
Ron, thank you for your excellent video for diagnosing a hard start & stall. My '89 Ford Supper cab has exactly same problem. I fixed the fuel heater leak and replaced all the O-ring (purchased from Ford for ~$16.00). I noticed there was a very small leak on one return line connector, I thought it was OK to use all of the return caps and line so I moved the clamp closer to the larger point of the connector port then it stopped leak. Next day the fuel drain back to the tank. I searched on UA-cam and found your channel. I went to Napa autoparts and order whole fuel return rebuild kit for ~42 bucks. Part will be here tomorrow. This time I hope there won't be any more leak after I fix it for 2nd time. The drain plug washer that you mention comes with kit right? I saw those washer on the picture of the kit.
Again thank for your very informative video.
Very informative. You always explain very well and take the time to do a good video. Thanks for taking the time, it is appreciated!
Still relevant! Will recommend to anyone with these issues.
This was very educational for me thank you very much!
Very informative and straightforward 👌🏼
Heck yeah now I know exactly what to do with my 7.3 idi definitely get some drain plug washers but mines got several caps leaking and the fuel heater o ring time to get it right thanks for the video
I really do love the 6.9
RIP diesel tech Ron, I just learned the drain plug washer on top of the return cap trick, I have a return cap that won't stop leaking perhaps that might do the trick.
I've worked on a very few of the 7.3 IDI, but the 7.3, 6.0 DI I have them figured out a little more, i know enough about the 6.4 and 6.7 to get myself in trouble
I did same thank, truck starts 100 percent!
Awesome video. Thank you very much!
Great job Ron
Excellent tip on the washers placed on top of the injector caps, I personally would use slightly thiner st st washers just for starters since there is limited space in there and you do not want to squeeze those plastic caps to tight or that would crack them wide open. My own opinion is that these plastic caps are junk and need to be made out of brass or some kind of metal since plastic in this application is very cheap and always will pose problems. Also I have found that the o-rings supplied with the kits are not fat enough, the diameter as far as I.D is good but they are just not made of a thick enough gauge to really be squeezed tight in the space between the cap and injector, another bad design. The washers are a must but be careful not to use anything thicker than 2 business cards worth of spacing.
Marti woodchip are the washers from the return line kit used for the bottom of injectors being used for the caps ? They look like copper washers ?
My exact question
Thanks For the info I have 885 with a 6.9 diesel engine never had any problems until now running low on fuel and now when I turn it on and it feels like it wants to stall have air in the syste for the info I have 85 will be 6.9 diesel engine never had any problems until now I ran it low on fuel and now when Istart it it feels like it wants to stall I think I have air in the systemm
I like the drain plug washer tip, i just use some old o-rings to hold the return caps down snuggly, but shouldn`t you put a cap on the shraeder valve I know for a fact, that it is prone to leak air it to the filter from the valve.
Nice video. I agree with all observations
We miss you :(
Helped a lot. Thanks
Great video, thanks.
Great video My problem is that i put a clear line from the fuel pump to the filter and i see very small minute bubbles randomly when i start the truck where can the be comming from any help would be appericated thanks james
Very informative! Thank u
great video I have been having the hard starting problems with my7.3 idi in my 1994 ford wrecker
Great video!
Years ago on my1986 f250 6.9 I had this same problem. It was the water separator mounted on the fire wall after needing to replace it the second time I installed a after market cartridge separator and it took care of the problem. The plunger drain valve would get crud in the seat and not completely seal after draining the water out. Hope this helps someone.
This is a great spot to check on, thanks, I searching!
very informative. thank you
Great video 👍
Great video. My 1994 250 turbo IDI ( which normally ran perfectly) Until one day my fuel filter light came on. I changed the filter and it seemed to run well again. However not 50 miles has it been used when it started running rough and then stalling. I noticed that once again the fuel filter light has come on. If I let it set for 5 minutes it starts up again and the same problem can happen all over again. I noticed when I put the new filter on the old one was only half full. Is that a clue leading to the problem or is half full where they run? I do need to check for possible air leaks and wonder what size those drain plug washers are you putting on the injectors. I am little more than a shade tree home mechanic if even that and this is my first diesel engine. Being a disabled senior on SS I have to do every possible thing I can as professional mechanics are really expensive for me. Thank you for this wonderful video. Hope you can reply.
Phucking sweet video!!!! Thanks for the info
Im having a hard time with mine. If I prime the engine, it will run great at high idle. Once it hit the low idle it start to sound as if its out of fuel. Then if I jump back on top and crack the lines again it runs smooth for a while then stalls. I replaced all cap, return fuel lines, and o-rings. Yet it still turns off. I never knew about the oring on the fuel filter so imma check that out. Also imma try and use the Drain plug washers as well. Is there ANYTHING else Im missing? I know its a simple engine but for some reason its kicking my butt!
great video, thanks
hi i have a 95 ford f250 with a 7.3 power stroke the injector cups are bad fuel in the antifreeze and the high pressure oil pump went out i also have a 85 ford f250 with a 6.9 is it possible to put the 6.9 in the 95?
Would have been a good video for Throwback Thursday!
great video
RIP Ron you are missed.
my glow plugs don't click like that. they only click once about 30 sec after the key is on. is this ok?
so i got an old 84 6.9 replaced all the caps and return lines no leanks in the filter will run for 25 mils or so and then with no worning shuts off but it will idel all day long i just cant figeuer it any thoughts?
Good info, thank you
Informative video. Keep it up! Maybe you can get some more 6.4 stuff.
Like what? I try to cover things that people ask or what seams common enough that they may see it too.
DieselTechRon
Thanks for all the great videos Ron! I actually own a 6.4, so some more videos on that engine would be great! Anything about injectors, and the HPFP? Maybe something about common 6.4 problems, and solutions. Thanks again Ron
Thanks for the great tips Ron, what size was those copper washers inside diameter ? And if a truck sat for a year and the water in fuel light came on on a 1991 7.3 idi diesel , what things would you do to get it started ? please help i cant get my truck started . : ( , Mark
I have a 7.3 with a starting prob i put clear lines on the returns and the fuel line from the lift pump to the filter and what happens is when i go to start the truck in the mornings i have to crank till it fires then quits and then on the second time it starts and runs good and the rest of the day it starts first crank starts real quick like normal but sits over nite and the lines have no fuel in them and i was told by the previous owner he replaced the lines, caps and orings and they do look new i put a new ip on it couple months ago before i do the caps and orings again is their anything else that could be causing this prob
hey buddy i was wondering the a/c compressor on this truck isnt factory and was wondering what compressor it came off of and how did they convert the lines? i might be wrong on the factory part but its not the same one thats on mine. thanks man
I saw your tip on using the washers to keep the plastic return line caps down because I have an older 7.3 idi (1988) uhaul (ford) I'm turning into a stealth RV. so anyways. I purchased new injectors, and a new return line kit, as well as motorcraft oem glow plugs. My question is, after bleeding the lines I have a gap of about 1/8" between the top plastic return line caps, and the metal nut for the supply line, and I get fuel coming out of some of the caps. Should this happen on a new install? the caps do go on smoothly, and have a small click when they seat( I did use oil to lube the cap and o-rings to not damage the o-rings. . Any ideas and info would be wonderful. This is my first diesel with only 162,000 miles on it. it ran strong when I picked it up, but I can tell now it has even more power. I picked up the 14' uhaul box truck for $1100 and yes it needs quite a bit of TLC, so yes it's getting a new fuel filter, oil change, Transmission service, then I will go threw the suspension, brakes, and rear dif to make sure she is mechanically sound. Yes I have built many a cars, and trucks, just never played with diesels, LOL
I deleted my fuel heater and put in a expanding plug best investment I had ever made
Ron, Thank you for your video that cover the problems of my '89 Ford supercab 7.3 diesel. I did fixed the fuel heater leak and fuel return line fixed. 2 days later I open the fuel filter that is full of fuel. It still has hard start. I checked the voltage to the plug an there wasn't 12V from the electrical post of the relay. The glow plug controller failed to energized the internal switch that connect 12V.
I bought a new controller from NAPA, after I replaced the old one, when I turn the key on and the the relay start cycle clicking(click,ckick,click) On the video you said there wasn't enough load to the plugs that cause the problem. All of the AC 32G glow plugs resistance I measure were 0.2 ohms. My question are:
1) What is the resistance for the new plug?
2) Is there any fuse link to the glow plug harness that need to be check?
Before I fixed the leak the old controller was working fine to start the engine and stall after fuel running out from the pump then it's bad.
Now the new controller wouldn't energize the 12V to the glow plug because low resistance load. Tomorrow I'll buy the new plugs in hope to fix the problem, some how in my mind I thought there was an open electrical circuit to the glow plugs that new controller measures as low resistance or no load.
It would be greatly appreciated if Ron or anyone can help me to solve this problem. Tomorrow after I put in the new plugs and if the problem solved I'll let you know.
Thanks
Ron, I found the problem of why the glow plugs didn't energize. 12V connector was bad (it mounts on top of the passenger side fender), the connector pins arcing and corroded cause less current flow thru. It indicates 12 V at the input of GP relay but there is not enough current flow thru the GP circuit and the output relay didn't have 12V supply to the GP.
I cut two Yellow 10 gauge wires at the connectors and bypass them to the 12V positive (these wires connect to voltage input of the GP relay). After that the engine starts as normal.
I bought 8 new Motorcraft GP with 2 measure .3 Ohm 6 other were .2 ohm. The resistance of the new plug from 0.2 ~ 0.3 ohms
So the exiting AC 32G resistance are good, the old Glow Plug Controller is good. I'll return the controller and GP to auto-parts store.
I learn a lot from yout video. Thanks
LV
Nice video thanks
Great video. Thanks for the tips.
How can I adjust the throttle? I want to have more response from the engine for acceleration, but also a healthy Idle, can this be done?
Thank you!
89 7.3 in an f250. No turbo. I have never ever heard that clicking that we hear in the video, when the glowplugs are 'ready'. I just checked again, this time, turning the key, then standing at the front of the truck with the hood open, and listening for when they were finished. No clicking. But it has never failed to start before this. So I am thinking it is not important that they click. Need to know for certain.
The glow plug controllers on these dont last
thank U very mach!
Hi Ron I'm not sure if your still doing the videos anymore or if you still answer questions? But I have to try and see ..you are the best thanks
I have a 1986 F350 6.9 and it has a cold start problem and it's driving me crazy I have checked for air leaks and fixed what I found, and I changed the bad glow plugs .and I changed out the mechanical pump .so it started good for about a week and now it's back to the same problem and now I'm stumped can you please help me and give me some ideas to slovimg my problem thanks I appreciate any help you can help me with thanks
Janet Becerra Sadly he died about two years back.
ua-cam.com/video/tkKCxnS-u_0/v-deo.html is may help, if you didnt change glow plug relay and test wires ti gkow plugs,,,,,
My 1990 ford 7.3 diesel power stroke starts at VERY high idle but won't accelerate or decelerate using the fuel pedal or throttle then dies off after few minutes; it what could be the problem? please advise.
Thanks!
good vid. thank you
MrSouthWhidbey how necessary is the fuel heater
Can I just add the washers that came with the kit for the injectors on top?
what size drain plug washer did you use?
What brand or size washers are u using on injector fitting
Heard u say oil drain plug washer
Looks like great idea
Just want to buy right ones
Thanks
12:14 ...you talking about the copper looking washers? They look like standard Drain Plug washer...
i have 94 7.3 that leaks fuel from the PUMP one of the "o' rings leaking is one of the screws i look all auto parts store even Ford dealer to replace but none off them have it. so now i Don't not if i replace the fuel pump or keep up looking for the 'o' rings
any idea that can help me?? thanks
accuratediesel.com
i have a 1994 7.3 turbo diesel i am trying to locate a fuel leak i do not have experience with this particular engine. i have found fuel leaking down my front coolant line on the drivers side and also a puddle right behind the turbo. i have also noticed fuel on the fittings of the fuel pump. any advice would be very helpful thanks.
Fuel housing heater element
mine does this exact thing!
What you using to seal them up?
I don't know you seem like you're experienced in these diesels.
But have you ever won the controller goes bad switched it over to the button system.
My dad had one from 1984 when it was new as time went by he switched it over to the button system.
I think the controller went for the glow plugs.
Hello Ron, I have a 99 ford F350 7.3 and it seems to only run when it wants to. I've changed the fuel filter and got 2 brand new batteries, replaced the fuel pump relay switch under the hood and also behind the dash. I went to go crank it up and got nothing but all lights are on the dash. All my glow plugs are fine as well.......any help or suggestions on what I should do next 🤔
... Ron's no longer with us, he passed away in a traffic accident years ago. There's a video talking about his passing.
ua-cam.com/video/_43Gs63Bsqk/v-deo.html
Might be a dumb question, but I was wondering the size of the drain plug washer or application that you would use when ordering them at the parts store?
1/2
biscaynerunner thinking the same thing...lol
Love the video, and all of you other ones. They have helped me with all my diesels. Where do you get these washers? Does auto parts stores carry them?
Also a question. Can I use the clear hose from the Home Depot as the return lines on the whole loop? Just thinking it would make spotting the air bubbles easy enough. I use it for gas lines on small engines but the ethenol makes it shrink after a couple seasons . Diesel is lower in ethenol but will the clear hold up for long term use ? Thanks again for this helpful video.
You can, however not long term. The hose will yellow, then become brittle and leak. Or stop by the lawn and garden section and pick up some clear orange Tyvek hose.
Nice
heres a way to test your glow pumps and relays is working
I put the copper drain plug washers on top of my caps but they're still all loose do you have any recommendation on what to do are they supposed to still be loose
...add some more? or thicker ones
hello I was driving my 7.3 IDI after fueling up drove about a block and it turn off while driving now it won't start any suggestions
Sorry that happened... Did the issue got solved? If so, what was the problem and what got fixed?
I would like to know how to figure out what engine is the 7. 3 just by looking at the block and which one is the 6.9 because I liked many videos and believe I have a 7. 3 in my diesel but I have been told by a mechanic it was a 6. 9 and I think he's wrong