Extremely beautiful lessons and extremely important valuable informations😍I'm very excited to learn more about this magnificent art techniques to start my first project🤗your professional methods and performance motives for me to realize how much I love that and I insist to watching carefully and listen to every detail in order to be a respectable professional as same as you one day🤗thanks again for all lovely tutorials and always will be waiting for the new updates😇
So glad you're enjoying the videos. Hope you will stay with the channel. If I may offer a small bit of advice... If you are new to model building, I would go with a simple kit, like those offered by Bluejacket Shipcrafters or Model Shipways. A great kit for the new ship modeler from Bluejacket is the Grand Banks Dory kit. It's well executed and while you are building this one, you will learn a lot about what to do what and what not to do. The same can be said of the Model Shipways kit of Katy of Norfork. Either one is interesting enough to keep you engaged and learning, but not so difficult as to become frustrating. I hope I'm not overstepping my boundaries, but I've see a lot of people trying something like USS Constitution for their first project and the model ends up in the bottom of the closet. Anyway, Good luck with whatever model you try and keep watching! Tom
Another fine video Tom! Thanks. When I carve a hull using this method I make up my block using waterline lifts with each half breadth on each lift marked at each station line with a hard sharp pencil point, which leaves a black impression. This gives the shape of the outside of the hull to carve to. You can also do the same thing for carving the interior to the approximate planking thickness plus a 32nd or so before final finishing. So when you carve the hull you have both internal and external points to aim for. Also, I cut my block along the center line compensating for the kerf of the saw blade during layout and then stick the two halves together with double sided tape. There is no issue with adhesion while carving the exterior shape and two halves will stay stuck together quite a while while carving the interior. When the adhesion fails then carve each half's interior to final thickness. By doing it this way you can fabricate the backbone and glue each half to it. This is the method used for the yawl boat model I sent you the picture of. The only issue I have had with this approach is sometimes the halves will work a little bit because of humidity changes, so it is important to keep the wood constantly sealed with shellac. (The joys of kiln dried basswood!)
Hi Bob, Your method sounds like a variation of Ewart Freeston's way of doing things. I'm curious: Do you have any trepidation about so many glue joints on such a thin shell? Not when the model is new, but perhaps down the road? Or do you think the frames and ceiling planks offer enough support to hold everything in place? I have been temped to try what is basically sticking two half hulls together, but the thought of the glue joint at the keel failing has always stopped me. I assume you would disagree...
@@shipmodelguy Hello Tom, I think if the mating surfaces at the glue joints are in intimate contact there should be no issues if the environment the model will be housed in is not too severe. My glue of choice is plain old white glue and I have never had an issue (TiteBond II or III might be another choice). And, yes, I learned this from Ewart Freeston's book with some variations of my own. The half breadth pencil point technique came from an article in WoodenBoat on building half hulls many years ago. I will see if I can find it and sent the reference.
Holes ,holes. I almost always chop holes in my boats. I use Abitron available on line or try homedepot.com. I am working on carving hull # 25 . I am Native American and carve model Pacific North Coast seasoning canoe models I typically start with a 9 pound block of Alaska yellow cedar and quit with a 22" hull that weighs less than 7 ounces. Your videos are wonderful.
nothing wrong with compromising, Perhaps a led strip in the plastic bubble wrap would be enough to act as a light box so you could work with the light behind the boat at all times?
Because of the way I build, I have to shape the exterior first and carve the interior to that shape. As for getting a consistent thickness for the hull, remember, I've built 55 of these things. A little practice and muscle memory go a long way in rendering a hull to fairly consistent proportions. If I understand you, the interior would be carved first, but how would I know where the exterior shape is, if I haven't carved it yet.
Hey Matthijs, To me, one doesn't seem any harder than the other-just different. The other thing for me is that I build whaleboats in 4 scales. In two of those scales, it is just impracticable to plank and frame a boat so small, unless you're Lloyd McCaffery. And that bring about the gathering of entirely new set of skills and methods of fabrication. So I needed something that scales up or down easily. The solid hull does that for me. Another aspect of this, for me at least, is that I've been doing it this way for about thirty years, so it just seems second natural. I did say in Episode One that I am getting a bit tired of carving these hulls and might try a plank on frame boat, maybe at 1:24 scale. Anyway, this method of hull construction is not for everyone and this series is chance to see how the other lives, as it were. Stay well, T
Building a plank-on-frame model of this size in 1:48 is no small task. There are a couple of approaches, neither of which is easy. You can carve a mold of the hull to the dimensions of the interior of the planking and score the mold to receive the flames and the backbone. This mold must be well sealed and waxed otherwise you will never get the model off the mold. I have built 1:48 Banker dories this way and it works quite well. The other approach is to follow the building method used for 1:1 hulls. Cut a number of molds to support the backbone, lay ribbands over the molds then bend over the ribs and follow with planking, etc. It can be done, but it is a hellish proposition. One of the biggest issues is materials. The planking of boats this size is in the 5/8" thick range, that is only 0.013" thick at 1:48, no easy to accomplish (ever if you compromised and went to 1" [0.020"]). The biggest issue is finding good straight fine grained stock. Holly would work well, but have you prices holly lately, and the quality of the product leaves a lot to be desired. Swiss peak can be had of good quality and one can cut quarter sawn stuff from it, but milling it to that thickness is extremely difficult, the same goes for European boxwood. Also, have you ever tried to spile and fit planks that size? Also not easy! The method that Tom is using is far more practical and produces a really good representation of the object in question.
@@robertcraig5741 thanks for the detailed explanation! In my mind it doesn't seem that hard, but I would probably figure that out when I try it. Maybe I just should, so I can experience how hard it is. I imagine if you want to make a boat where the planks are overlapping like a viking longboat, you kinda have to.
@@DrTheRich Clinker planked (lapstrake), like a Viking longboat, is significantly easier because you do not have to perfectly butt the planks together. This is this case with a dory. Once you up the scale to 1:24 or 1:12 it is a different ballgame and becomes much more manageable.
That exacto blade scraper alone is worth the price of admission! Thank you for this!
I seem to use X-acto blades for almost everything but cutting.
Extremely beautiful lessons and extremely important valuable informations😍I'm very excited to learn more about this magnificent art techniques to start my first project🤗your professional methods and performance motives for me to realize how much I love that and I insist to watching carefully and listen to every detail in order to be a respectable professional as same as you one day🤗thanks again for all lovely tutorials and always will be waiting for the new updates😇
So glad you're enjoying the videos. Hope you will stay with the channel. If I may offer a small bit of advice... If you are new to model building, I would go with a simple kit, like those offered by Bluejacket Shipcrafters or Model Shipways. A great kit for the new ship modeler from Bluejacket is the Grand Banks Dory kit. It's well executed and while you are building this one, you will learn a lot about what to do what and what not to do. The same can be said of the Model Shipways kit of Katy of Norfork. Either one is interesting enough to keep you engaged and learning, but not so difficult as to become frustrating.
I hope I'm not overstepping my boundaries, but I've see a lot of people trying something like USS Constitution for their first project and the model ends up in the bottom of the closet.
Anyway, Good luck with whatever model you try and keep watching! Tom
Hi Tom, thanks for taking the time to share your hobby with your viewers. Richard
Thanks for watching
Amazing.
Thanks!
Great video Tom. I love the challenge and no short cuts. Makes the finished model that nicer.
Thanks, James. There will be more out shortly.
Another fine video Tom! Thanks. When I carve a hull using this method I make up my block using waterline lifts with each half breadth on each lift marked at each station line with a hard sharp pencil point, which leaves a black impression. This gives the shape of the outside of the hull to carve to. You can also do the same thing for carving the interior to the approximate planking thickness plus a 32nd or so before final finishing. So when you carve the hull you have both internal and external points to aim for. Also, I cut my block along the center line compensating for the kerf of the saw blade during layout and then stick the two halves together with double sided tape. There is no issue with adhesion while carving the exterior shape and two halves will stay stuck together quite a while while carving the interior. When the adhesion fails then carve each half's interior to final thickness. By doing it this way you can fabricate the backbone and glue each half to it. This is the method used for the yawl boat model I sent you the picture of. The only issue I have had with this approach is sometimes the halves will work a little bit because of humidity changes, so it is important to keep the wood constantly sealed with shellac. (The joys of kiln dried basswood!)
Hi Bob,
Your method sounds like a variation of Ewart Freeston's way of doing things. I'm curious: Do you have any trepidation about so many glue joints on such a thin shell? Not when the model is new, but perhaps down the road? Or do you think the frames and ceiling planks offer enough support to hold everything in place?
I have been temped to try what is basically sticking two half hulls together, but the thought of the glue joint at the keel failing has always stopped me. I assume you would disagree...
@@shipmodelguy Hello Tom,
I think if the mating surfaces at the glue joints are in intimate contact there should be no issues if the environment the model will be housed in is not too severe. My glue of choice is plain old white glue and I have never had an issue (TiteBond II or III might be another choice). And, yes, I learned this from Ewart Freeston's book with some variations of my own. The half breadth pencil point technique came from an article in WoodenBoat on building half hulls many years ago. I will see if I can find it and sent the reference.
finally. another episode well done
This is a great video especially for a novice...great tips and you make it look doable.
Glad it was helpful!
First. Yes i was waiting on this!! my favorite channel :)
Thanks, Matthijs. The one for the harpoons will be out very soon. I start editing it today.
Holes ,holes. I almost always chop holes in my boats. I use Abitron available on line or try homedepot.com. I am working on carving hull # 25 . I am Native American and carve model Pacific North Coast seasoning canoe models
I typically start with a 9 pound block of Alaska yellow cedar and quit with a 22" hull that weighs less than 7 ounces. Your videos are wonderful.
I'd be interested in seeing the process. Photos or videos anywhere?
You guys are amazing! I think I will stick with planking on frame or bulkhead! Or just plastic kits!
nothing wrong with compromising, Perhaps a led strip in the plastic bubble wrap would be enough to act as a light box so you could work with the light behind the boat at all times?
I never thought of that. I'll give it a try.
@@shipmodelguy oh, and thanks for the shout out, i agree its expensive but good things generally are ;)
Would it not be better to hollow the center first then shape using the exterior? Instrument makers use gauges to measure the thickness of the oak
Because of the way I build, I have to shape the exterior first and carve the interior to that shape. As for getting a consistent thickness for the hull, remember, I've built 55 of these things. A little practice and muscle memory go a long way in rendering a hull to fairly consistent proportions. If I understand you, the interior would be carved first, but how would I know where the exterior shape is, if I haven't carved it yet.
Is it me or does this seem harder than a plank on frame method?
Hey Matthijs,
To me, one doesn't seem any harder than the other-just different. The other thing for me is that I build whaleboats in 4 scales. In two of those scales, it is just impracticable to plank and frame a boat so small, unless you're Lloyd McCaffery. And that bring about the gathering of entirely new set of skills and methods of fabrication. So I needed something that scales up or down easily. The solid hull does that for me. Another aspect of this, for me at least, is that I've been doing it this way for about thirty years, so it just seems second natural. I did say in Episode One that I am getting a bit tired of carving these hulls and might try a plank on frame boat, maybe at 1:24 scale.
Anyway, this method of hull construction is not for everyone and this series is chance to see how the other lives, as it were.
Stay well,
T
Building a plank-on-frame model of this size in 1:48 is no small task. There are a couple of approaches, neither of which is easy. You can carve a mold of the hull to the dimensions of the interior of the planking and score the mold to receive the flames and the backbone. This mold must be well sealed and waxed otherwise you will never get the model off the mold. I have built 1:48 Banker dories this way and it works quite well. The other approach is to follow the building method used for 1:1 hulls. Cut a number of molds to support the backbone, lay ribbands over the molds then bend over the ribs and follow with planking, etc. It can be done, but it is a hellish proposition. One of the biggest issues is materials. The planking of boats this size is in the 5/8" thick range, that is only 0.013" thick at 1:48, no easy to accomplish (ever if you compromised and went to 1" [0.020"]). The biggest issue is finding good straight fine grained stock. Holly would work well, but have you prices holly lately, and the quality of the product leaves a lot to be desired. Swiss peak can be had of good quality and one can cut quarter sawn stuff from it, but milling it to that thickness is extremely difficult, the same goes for European boxwood. Also, have you ever tried to spile and fit planks that size? Also not easy! The method that Tom is using is far more practical and produces a really good representation of the object in question.
@@robertcraig5741 thanks for the detailed explanation! In my mind it doesn't seem that hard, but I would probably figure that out when I try it. Maybe I just should, so I can experience how hard it is.
I imagine if you want to make a boat where the planks are overlapping like a viking longboat, you kinda have to.
@@DrTheRich Clinker planked (lapstrake), like a Viking longboat, is significantly easier because you do not have to perfectly butt the planks together. This is this case with a dory. Once you up the scale to 1:24 or 1:12 it is a different ballgame and becomes much more manageable.
@@robertcraig5741 ah! Scale!
I understand, I also like 1/12 scale for small boats.