Jeep WJ Maintenance - Part 1: Rear Lower and Upper Control Arms - Vortex Garage Ep. 3
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- Опубліковано 1 лип 2015
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We start a major suspension maintenance job on the WJ Jeep. In this 3 part series, we will tackle the rear suspension, front suspension, and a full fluid service. In part 1, we replace bushings in the WJ Jeep upper control arm including the diff mounted balljoint. We also replace bushings in the rear lower control arms. - Авто та транспорт
No Music Remaster now live here! - ua-cam.com/video/PA5Obeq_LUo/v-deo.html
Thank you for keeping this video online. The trick with the three bolts into the differential housing is exactly what I needed to get the job done. I bought a reversible ratcheting 21mm wrench to make it easier. Removed the middle of the three and just took my time slowing backing off the other two. I jacked up the body with jack stands but left the wheels attached and on the ground.
Great tip with the freezing method. Makes install a lot easier. I also like how you show the removal and install of the upper control arm without disconnecting the shocks, sway bar links and coils. Saves a lot of time. Good work!
@13:00 When setting the torque on the lower arms, move your jackstands to your rear axel housing instead of trying to get your torque wrench in behind the tires. Or if you have the ramp style stand or greater than a 4" lift, you can reach it with the tires on. I got this idea from niagara4x4 user DBman
Only took me 8 hours not pressing out the old bushings. I just bought all new uppers and lowers. It was raining half the time and dark the other half.
The best instructional on the upper replacement I found. Greatly appreciate the time you take to make sure you are getting the best picture possible of the pertinent parts with the camera. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
great video man, I like your attention to detail
I was just quoted 1500 to do that exact same thing. I think I can do it. Thanks for the great video.
Plus tax😅 them pros alright , pro scammers
Thank you so much for posting, great video, great explanation of what you are doing. really appreciate it.
Great job. This is one of the best videos I've seen on this
For the control arms is just easier and likely cheaper to order whole control arms off rockauto and not have to screw around with pressing out and get both bushings replaced at the same time.
yes very much so. 5-10 minute install.
And instead of using a hand wrench on the 3 21mm bolts for the ball joint why not take the 1 nut off and take it off the ball joint with a impact and the 21s with a impact. Takes 30 seconds did it last week
Excellent video. Just what I needed. Im going to "go ahead" and do mine. Thank you.
Boy am I glad I found this video thank you so much for this information!
Excellent video sir
Really helpful video. Thank you!
nice work
Good vid…subbed!
The oval bushes are available from Super Pro pt no. SPF2826K
man thanks so much for the quick response!
No prob, good luck!
Moog Bushings and Timken bearings?! Glad to see you using quality replacement parts.
Done the A frame today. Those 3 bolts at 14:50 were a right bastard. :D other than that the rest was pretty plain sailing, didnt need to remove anything else. Ive ordered the trailing arms and will be doing that probably Thursday when they arrive as the ones on there are rotten, too far gone just to replace the bushings.
My control arms were so rusted I am glad I had complete replacement arms ready.
great garage, I did mine on the parking lot but got it going.
For the front lower control arm with the oval bushing you can buy the oval bushing on rock auto but for the oval+round bushing you can just buy a new lower control arm for the same price. So it makes sense to just buy the lower control arm.
I know a lot of guys who tell me, order from Amazon or Rock Auto, I always spend time searching all the prices on ebay and Always find Rock Auto and Amazon to be higher priced than several other dealers, I have never found those two sites prices better than many others...shop around, you'll save money !
hold the bolt and turn the nut. it does make a difference.
just finished switching out the upper control arm and ball joint but for me not having the proper tools at first,was a bitch..lol..thanks for the vid it helped me out alot..
Awesome video, I was wondering what all the torque specifications were for the bolts? Thanks
Thanks for the information! I'm looking at a potential rear axle replacement on the new-to-me WJ and wanted to get an idea of what was involved in removing it. The info about what size wreches will come in handy, especially if I have to make a Pull-a-Part run for the rear axle.
I have all the parts to do the upper, but I can't get to one of the bolts on the ball joint because the exhaust is in the way. I've tried twice, and twice I've had to put it all back together. I've changed all my suspension parts except for the upper. Thinking of cutting off my exhaust so I can get to that last bolt on the passenger side and then get a new exhaust.
I have a handiband between the cat and the muffler anyway. This is on a stock 2004 Grand Cherokee.
What brand control arms did you go with? I’m about to rebuild my entire front and rear suspension. These vids on the WJ are gold! Thank you!
Moog I used
I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0. I am replacing my front and rear upper and lower control arms I am looking for the nuts and bolts sizes for these. Does anybody know the links or sizes and where I can purchase them?
Hello Vortex Garage, consult I have changed rotula and hubs grill boomerang rear differential suspension. but after a while the tag is broken and I have to replace it again. What could be the reason for its short duration? Thank you
How many tonnes pressure is your press for replacing control arms bushing please. Thanks
For the most part this video does a fairly good job. Only problem i see is they say nothing about the most important things. First, no explanation that to do this job you should have a really solid pair of Jack Stands in place. Second you should have a hydraulic jack under the rear axle to adjust position for bolt removal and replacement. Third you should search out ebay dealers for a complete new Upper A Frame arm and Ball Joint system. I priced just the bushings and ball joint new and they were way more expensive and would be a very hard job to replace in the old arm especially if you do not own a good press to change them out. I searched ebay and found a complete new system for only $49.99, including free shipping. Ready to remove the old unit and simply replace it with no need to press out and press in and saved a chunk of cash and time. Last on install, he doesn't show the best way to slide the upper control arm back into position which if you don't make sure the set up is right and you don't happen to have the arm turned correctly you can get it to go in upside down and have to pull it back out and put it back in, not a real big deal but a hassle none the less to add to the work load. ALO, snap a few pictures with you camera phone before you start the job just in case you don't get it done in one day and have to go back to finish it a week later, you can't always remember where every piece fit where, a good idea to do this on EVERY JOB, it's best to replace the same bo;ts back into the same place they were removed from so they fit better. My only complaint with these folks who show you how to, always seem to want to play some MUSIC that many people find to be a distraction. Guess they think they're making a feature film movie and need the effects added? I don't know, but i do know if i want to hear music, maybe the rest of the world don't, because they don't like the same music i do or it distracts from the otherwise quality of how to do the job. Just don't care for hearing anything but the important instructions when doing a job of this size and safety first. Stop The Music Please. Good video otherwise. Make notes and lay out your tools before you begin so you don't have to make 5 trips up and down huntingt a wrench etc., good luck and youcan do the job if you watch a few video's but you may have to watch a dozen dummies fake it before you find one who knows what they are doing. This one is a good start.
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what size tires do you have, and did you lift the truck at all???
Apply brake fluid to. Rusty nuts. Better then. Pb blaster......
i realize that its different with mechanics and toles used but what would the average time to do upper and lower controls?
Hello. which grease you use?
So i have a question. The only rear control arms that remain loose until the weight of the vehicle is on them is the lower rears?
Thank you for the videos. After watching, I really think if I go and purchase some decent tools I'll be able to maintain my vehicle without paying silly garage prices. You explain everything very well. One question I do have is.... I'm currently looking at a 2004 grand cherokee not sure which engine size, probably the 4.7 V8. Is there anything I should pay close attention to, before buying the vehicle. Thanks again. Wouldn't mind a video on a 2inch lift kit (spacers) thanks again.
Can you tell me what size socket or wrenches you used for the upper control arms in the rear? For the plate
21mm, a 13/16's also works.
But how did you get the bushing holes to line up I've been stuck for 3 days and you just do the good ol magical transition
Which ones? Happy to try and help but I don't recall any issues aligning them. On the front axle I do recall alignment fun on the upper control arms.
So long as you do these one at a time it should not be a huge deal. If the original bushings are gone though I could see here the axle may be out of alignment.
Using a jack to move the axle up and down in it's arc helps. Also on the front I used a large heavy duty ratchet strap around the axle tube and connected to the vehicles frame to pull it the half inch needed to align a bushing hole. I recall that was indeed a pain but on the rears, and perhaps I was lucky, they all went together no problem.
Possible title of the Jeep agency
Control arms are only $50...might as well buy them to save 2 hours of replacing the bushings...
Do you torque down the 21mm ball joint nut and the 15mm control arm bolts while the wheels are on the ground? If so, how do you get a torque wrench on the 100ftlb ball joint nut?
You don't have to torque these while on the ground like you do with the lowers and the front ones. Those have a rotational moment about the axis of the steel bushing when hitting bumps, that is why they must be tightened with vehicle weight on them. The upper rear ones at the body do not seeing they are mounted horizontal, they have a pivoting moment not on the axis of the steel mount sleeve. Same with the upper ball joint, it can be torqued while the axle is in the air also. I torqued the 3 bolts holding the ball joint to the axle first before I put the ball joint stud through the control arm, that way I could fit a torque wrench in there.
Great video but I have a question. I'm installing a new upper control arm but the bushings won't line up with the bolt holes. The ball joint isn't bolted on yet and I can get one side in, but I can't get both to line up. Any tips or tricks that you can offer to help?
I know there is a specific alignment needed on the bushings that we didnt cover in the video - I dont think that would effect bolt hole alignment but something to check:
www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/rear-upper-control-arm-bushing-issue-1062933/#/forumsite/20623/topics/1062933
Hopefully the new arm is dimensionally the same, is the whole arm new? can you compare to the old? I dont recall having any bolt alignment issues on the upper mounts, and you also said you don't have the balljoint attached to the diff housing yet which is good and helps. Sorry I don't have much more in the way of tips, hopefully you can check those few things and get it to align...
Nice work. The alignment on the rear up control arm bushing it is very important. You have to align the rubber hole in the bushing one to the front and the other to the rear of the car.. If you do not do it this way, the two bushing wont last 3 months.
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having to remove the rear ball joint that way is a pain! I've had to do it before. sucks!!
Jesse Fritz Agreed! A gear wrench ratcheting box in in the right size is a big time saver on this job...next one I have to do I'll have that
it sucks so bad. little bit at a time on each one. I'd recommend putting some silicone or any seize on it so it doesn't corrode together. gigantic pain!!
Why not just take off the ball stud nut then lower the axel and use a pickel fork to break it free. Then you will have plenty of room to take out the 3 bolts on the plate?🤔
Can you give a parts number list, I cant find the right part number for the axle side bushing for the front upper control arm.Btw, the videos are great, I plan to do pretty much the same jobs. Thanks.
Sure thing - I got the upper bushings and balljoint from Quadratec. They were both Crown parts:
m.quadratec.com/products/product.php?pid=56015+1006
www.quadratec.com/products/56100+0003.htm
For the lowers, the round body side bushing on the stock lower arm is moog k3167.
I never found a part number for the oval bushing on the lower arms. I didnt do it as shown in video but would like to eventually. The only easy option for doing both is buying a new moog lower arm. I may keep searching for a moog part #, just didnt find one earlier.
Good luck! And glad you enjoyed the video! Thanks!
Thanks again. I think this is the oval bushing, but it is listed for a liberty, I might order one just to see if it fits.
www.omix-ada.com/rear-lower-control-arm-bushing-04-07-jeep-liberty-kj.html
+Chrissy Stathes Awesome - I found the same, I think you are right, even though its listed as a KJ/Liberty bushing. I ended up not ordering when I did the other work. But, I may now order and see if its the same size. Cheaper than new arms! Thanks again!
+Chrissy Stathes Amazon has 4 in stock, I just grabbed 2, so 2 left if you plan to get from Amazon. Ill be trying them out too! Search 18283.12 to find - thx again, and I hope they are direct fits!
Why didn’t you go ahead and replace the whole control arm and instead go ahead and replace just the round bushing. Would it be too expensive to go ahead and buy the whole thing, or did you just want to go ahead and first of all inspect in case you didn’t need to go ahead and replace anything, or was there some problem that told you to go ahead and replace the round bushing?
If you are looking to save as much as possible, and have the tools, the bushings are cheaper, but honestly time is money and the the arms are not that expensive. It's must easier and quicker to simple buy new arms with bushings pre-installed.
That said I don't recall how expensive the upper arm is, it's a fair big piece. But definitely shop around, if you can buy a quality loaded arm for a decent price, you will save time and hassle.
any chance of sharing the part number on the rear lower control arm bushings? appreciate any help
I *think* the rear lower CA round bushings were Moog K3167s. It's been awhile and can't find the original sheets and Internet search came up dry. But I am fairly sure that is them. I used K3167 and K3166, pretty sure the 66s are for the front upper CA. BTW, The oval bushing is not listed for the WJ.
so Crown lists the same part for ZJ and WJ. the Moogs list for ZJ on most sites so should be right. See here m.quadratec.com/products/product.php?pid=56015+0106.
So again fairly sure it was K3167s
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How many miles are on this vehicle?
165k
is white WJ that you working on real curious as to what the tire size is and do you have a lift on the car I have the same exact Jeep with the same exact rims looking to buy a new set of tires please inbox me tire size ...... Thx. Jk
Those were 265/70-16's, which measure to about 31". Those are Goodyear duratracs. The jeep had a 2" "budget boost" (spring pucks). Some minor inner fender plastic skirt trimming was required.
PS. if you watch anymore of our WJ videos, note that some of our older ones will have links in the description to a "remastered" version with no music.
Hope this helps!
can you just jack up the axle until the car starts to lift, and then torque it? in order to pre load
Как дела
@19:26 You actually didn't have it oriented correctly...
Are the rear upper and lower control arm bushings the same?
sadly no
For what a new control costs your far better off just buying the control arm and not wast your time and effort trying to change bushings. Them control arms are a disposable wear parts. So don't waste your time changing bushings.. 🤦♂️
Audio is very poor! Like an echo chamber!
The wj is way to stock
@19:26 You actually didn't have it oriented correctly...