Lemme jump in here and help Brian out with these comments. He's not as technically versed as Nick and I are, so this may make things a bit clearer. First, pushrod length. Nick and I compared notes on the phone yesterday and came to the same conclusions. The lifters Comp supplied are the AMC style. I measured them against the stock Chrysler lifter yesterday ( Several examples of each) and on average the AMC style lifter has a pushrod cup .025 lower than the OE Chryslers. If the engine had been assembled with the original thickness steel shim head gaskets (which are no longer available) the stock length pushrods would have been OK. As it stands, the stock length pushrods provide zero preload. Two of the 16 were about .020 shorter than the others (production tolerances) and those were the ones tapping. This brings us to the oil issues. The AMC style lifter oils the rockertrain through the pushrods...OE Chryslers do not. The engine uses solid pushrods. Because there was no preload on the lifters, oil was free to leak from between the lifter cup and the base of the pushrods. In other words each lifter/pushrod contact point represented an internal oil leak. A high volume pump would have overcame this issue for the most part. Nick had no SB pumps on hand and it was late in the day when the oil issue was found. Ignition Timing. When nick timed the engine, he did it at 32 degrees total at 2000 RPM. We agreed that 32 would be about optimum here. What nick didn't realize is that I had NOT curved the distributor. It had stock advance springs in it, that would not bring full advance in until past 3500 RPM. When they made the two aborted pulls, the engine was seeing approximately 46 degrees of spark advance...WAY no bueno for this thing. To Nicks credit, he cut the pulls at 5000 rpm which saved this thing from going into severe detonation. Things could have gotten real ugly! Numbers. The two pulls were cut at 5000 rpm. 5000 is pretty much where this combination should start to make power, and peak should have been between 6200 and 6500. As it was, 4600 was peak at 250 horsepower and then it dove hard. That's where detonation took over. That's also where we got lucky and Nick pulled the plug. With more time and a thorough run in/break in, all of these issues would have been found and corrected...these things are par for the course. But, because time was EXTREMELY limited, this is how things worked out. Brian will regroup, Nick and I both have his back, and we'll get to see real results as soon as it's practical to do so. My prediction? 350 horse at 6300. We'll see how it rolls.
well said , well written , bryan your in good hands uncle tony and nick got your back, combined these two gents got more knowledge put together than any of the chrysler engineers ... and i will get the pizzas and poutine when you come back to nicks garage for the real dyno pulls
This all sounds so familiar. I played the same games with valvetrain issues on my old 318 back in the early 80's. But by the time we got things right, I knew that engine inside and out. I wish I had a place to work on stuff now. Oh well, I guess I'll have to settle for watching you thrash it. Btw, I used to keep an old POS block in the backyard with a sledgehammer right next to it. Whenever we got frustrated beyond hope.......just head out back and beat the shit out of that thing for a few minutes. It was the ultimate way to mellow out. That, and a few six-packs. Enjoy the journey. The only thing you usually have left are the memories. (and the tickets)
Nick, Uncle Tony, Brian dont listen to the haters! This was an awesome project. Very interested in what caused the low oil pressure. Motor sounds great!
thank you man it was a heck of a road trip with great people, and a great way of going from engines like what my supra has to old school. it gets me even more pumped to get the LS for the GS together.
"Mad props"? What the hell does that mean? (Googles the term). Gamer geek slang. I'm glad I never got into that stupidity. I was busy devouring ever issue of Car Craft, Hot Rod, Popular Hot Rodding, Super Stock & Drag Illustrated, etc. and playing basketball and other sports when I wasn't reading those mags back when I was a teenager--not playing stupid video games which were not around back then, thank God. Nor would I if they had been!
I sure miss my 72 Sebring Plus. It had a lotta rust, but it was arrow straight and had a strong 318. A guy made me an offer I couldnt refuse, and I needed the dough. I'm happy to say he's fixed it up really nice.
That is awesome. I only regret selling selling one car. It was my 2nd Supra, it ran like a top and would do the quarter mile in 12.7. The kid I saw the two thought I could make it better within a week he butchered it so bad. then it sat for three years before His father crushed it.
The Mopar 318's are pretty much bullet proof and you can waken them up, but if you want try Crower Cams and Rhodes Lifters combo, they'll give you really good vacuum at idle and good power up to 5500 rpm. Check with Crower on what lift you need for your applications and they'll not disappoint!
Lunar! Thank you, thank you, thank you for making the trek to Montreal! Much respect! Your tenacity and enthusiasm are exactly what we need! Its been an awesome project to watch thus far and I can not wait for 2.0. Have a safe return!
Sorry to hear/see about the issues with the engine. It sounds pretty healthy! I would say with all the issues fixed, properly tuned with headers, it would put out about 364 or so HP & somewhere around 390 FT LB of torque. As Nick said a Melling oil pump, that's what I always use & never had a problem with them, not say anything bad about the other brands. I wish you the best with it & look forward to seeing what numbers it pulls.
wow that is so cool being there in person then watching it on lunaroutlaws garage on you tube ,,and getting to see my award winning mustang and the fury on your channel ...bryan was a real treat spending the day with you it was alot of fun , cant wait to see that 318 scream on the dyno in the near future
This is a stretch but look on the front ID pad of the engine and look for any symbols such as a diamond or cross shape. I have built two 340s in the past years that were produced with oversized lifters on at least one bore. They are usually .008” oversized. I was able to locate NOS lifters for them. These blocks are stamped with these symbols.
LunarOutlaw’s Garage thers a few haters about tony but fuck them I think tony did a good job he done the heads that motor sounds strong at 5000 rpm so like tony says it will make at least 350 I bet I’ve had a 318 that was about the same
I really hope An look forward to you taking it back up to nicks again to do another dyno run so we can see what it runs for horsepower an torque etc.. went this far dont not do it man .. definately fix what ya got to an hope you keep in it an get it back up as soon as you can An not let this thing sit an become another shoved off to the side project .. I really do look forward to see the final results .. I will keep notifications on so to know when your back up to nicks .. 👍
This was a fun thing too watch and follow along with. In a way I am kinda happy it didn't work on the first time, because now we get to go on to round 2😀😀😀👍
Love this video for the other reason of Behind the scenes at Nicks Garage! Thank you LunarOutlaw for the video. And you are in good hands with two well versed Mopar Builders
You can use amc lifters on a la small block only with magnum heads. Plus. Magnum head gaskets. Use ford or chevy roller rocker arms and and use a push rod checker.
Excellent !!! I have no doubt you'll get it sorted this is par for the course with these types ofbuilds. It's a minor issue. IMHO the motor sounded strong
When you head up to Nick’s again, I am about 4 hr south of Montreal in Vermont. Lots of Mopars in the area including a B-body in my garage. I’ll even buy dinner.
Tell ya what Lunar... Since it didn't go well on the engine dyno, I would like to pay for you to put it on a chassis Dyno once you get it in the car and the bugs worked out... We will find a Chassis Dyno Shop near you and make it happen if possible!! I know how things can go on the Dyno and it is frustrating to say they least... I look forward to the future! Andy Unity Motorsports Garage
@@LunarOutlawsGarage well.. I know the pain of having small issues that kill you on the Dyno... I know you are planning another trip up to Nick's but I'm serious about my offer... On my 393 Windsor I made 575hp flywheel, at the wheels through a C4 with 4500 stall converter and a 9" rear... It dropped to 408 RWHP!!! So if you do get your Flywheel #'s we can see how efficient your drivetrain is... Awesome job from your Top Ford Fan, Andy
Do some more tiding of the garage and you'll find somewhere to put the stand ;) Sorry that the dyno day didn't go to plan but I think we all learned something from this ! Cant wait for Part II
I'm glad you're happy. There is so many issues with that dyno session, I don't know where to start first. Since people on UA-cam (like Facebook) live in a pretend world and have trouble dealing with reality, I'm not going to go into any of them. So congrats on getting it running, lets hope it stays that way.
Dodgy Brothers Engineering that motor sounded strong at 5000 so it will not come apart I don’t know what issuers you are talking about nick pretty much works on mopars so I know he know his stuff it’s a junk motor what you expect
@@jeffleblanc8850 any monkey can be taught to press buttons, it takes skill and intelligence to properly tune on a dyno. Nick exhibited neither on this particular occasion. He was fluttering the throttle to try get oil pressure up. Shit if that isn't a major red flag, nothing ever will be. There is no greater cardinal sin that to rev any engine without adequate oil pressure (not unless you own shares in a bearing, crank, rod and piston business). The problem is there are a lot of cowboy tuners on UA-cam, and many of the great tuners are quiet guys just getting on with the job in their workshops. Nick picked up a couple of obvious problems, but there was nothing earth shattering about the diagnosis. I've watched a few of his videos, he is an OK mechanic but he's nothing to write home about.
@@jeffleblanc8850 if that engine sounded strong to you, then I suggest that you never take up engine tuning for a living. That thing rattled from the instant it was started up. I know he was trying to break the cam in, but I would have stopped the session and started looking for the cause long before he did. You only need to run the cam at above 2000 rpm while the engine is running, nothing stopped him turning off the engine and looking for issues long before he did.
Hello Brian... just subscribed to your channel... love too see you turning wrenches, getting dirty an making videos with no camera help. Keep up the hard work..Bless you.😀
Hey, yer learnin, kid. Keep it up. I'm about halfway between you and Tony on the knowledge and experience. Probably closer to YOU, lol, even though I'm 55 and been messin with Mopars since 1984.
@@LunarOutlawsGarage This is my first day on your channel. I've followed Tony for about a month and Nick for two months. As I watch your clips, I realize you're not as green as I thought! In fact, on some makes you know far more than I do. You're just green on old MOPARS. All I know is old Mopars and Fords.
Wallace. We had the oil pump removed and checked for any debris damage. Looked good and installed it back in the motor. Checked one main bearing, and was clean.
Too many debates on old pump types I have always used high volume pumps with no issues at all including buick engines which is not a bolt on thing you have to make it work just a bunch of pieces I agree with tony on oil leaking out the top of lifters 16 oil leaks = low oil pressure think about it
You just need to have Nick rebuild that 318 if you want a good motor. If you want to have good oil pressure it has to be hot tanked or completely dipped in DRx bath for about an hour.
MV72 melling is the oil pump you want, and mod it for a 1/2 pickup. Lash caps on the valves MAY help if you don’t want to swap lifters.( or just keep milling the heads,lol)
Sorry things didn't work out like you hoped but, like others have said, the cam is broken in and issues were discovered before bolting it in the car. Can't wait to see it back on the dyno - but probably not as much as you! Good stuff Lunar - ~Q
at least you know how to fix the problems! before you know it the new oil pump will be in👍 I'm a ford fan so seeing the falcon. from mad max was cool as hell brings me back to the early 80s when i was kid watching it on HBO!
Well put uncle Tony you are the man...!!! Not long ago on UA-cam I saw this fella using a kit and they were adjustable length pushrods with some really soft springs and I’m sure you’re aware of it but for the other readers you basically connect compressed air to the spark plug hole and that holds the valves up while you remove the standard springs and replace those with a really light spring and then you insert this adjustable pushrod mark the top of the valve stem with a sharpie or something and dial in the correct length so the Rocker is pushing smack in the middle of the valve stem probably more applicable to roller rockers I don’t know but nevertheless I wonder if on this occasion that would’ve helped.... Naturally once you’ve got the optimal pushrod length you can order a set or maybe make the necessary adjustments some other way...... I have never seen it before and I really liked it
Brian, I just joined you and your channel and I have to say you're in great hands with Uncle Tony and Nick. Looking forward for the next video. I certainly hope all of the debris is out of the engine for you. Don't want to see you have any issues!! 👍👍👍
Thanks man. Yup the engine is coming back apart to find the oil problem and sort out the bugs, then it will be back up to nicks. A big thank you to nick an John Wilburn they have been very helpful sorting out what went wrong. nick has given me a great list of places to look to see why there was a 40psi drop in oil pressure. Unfortunately after this video tony walked away from the collaboration, but I am committed to complete the task.
Brian, one thing that I can share with everyone is "Cleanliness is next to Godliness", lol. I've built a lot of "budget" engines in my day, as a hobby and it only takes a microscopic speck to cause engine failure. Do me a favor, if by chance you are removing the crankshaft, check the gaps between the crankshaft and the bearings with "no gauge" I think it's called, lol. It's a green thin plastic strip that you cut into pieces and put between the bearing and the crankshaft. On the outside of the wrapper that it comes in, is the " go or no go" measurement for the tolerances. If for some reason the crankshaft has been turned 10 under, this could be another problem with oil pressure. If you can, also "blow out" the oiling holes in the crankshaft and the engine block with a rag and compressed air to remove any hidden debris, unless you are going to hot tank it to be safer. Anyway, I only wish the best and I am looking forward to seeing you unleash the beast!!!
Mike Brown that was the major thing that Tony and I were talking about. When I was up to nicks the engine oil drop down to 18 psi, and Tony said that wouldn’t be enough to turn the idiot light on the dashboard. So when I was talking to nick the other day I told him this. Before I went down I mentioned to Tony that I believe the engine had been disassembled and reassembled at one point. While we were building it he said that whoever reassembled it had no idea what they were doing. Now back to when I was disassembling it the bearings in the mains had been standard. However I propose to Nick that maybe the person who put the bearings and put standard in and it really needed a dif. Size bearing. When Tony Assembled the rotating assembly he skipped using Plastigage. Nick agreed that would be why we had a 40psi drop in the oil pressure when it got up to operating temp. So when i start the disassembly next week that will be the first thing I do.
Many good things were learned here by LunarOutlaw's efforts with UTG and Nick's. It's good to think of how many of us have gone through and built an engine, shoving it around and balancing it on a milk crate on the garage floor, then hoisted it directly into the car... only then to find an oil pressure or some other problem. That's when you learn to build some kind of engine run-in stand.
Are you looking oil pressure in the lifter bores with wrong (AMC) lifter? The oil groove on the lifter may be dropping out of the note. Had this issue with an olds once with substituted lifters in a kit. Compare the oil grooves between Mopar and you AMC ones. Just a thought.
@@LunarOutlawsGarage Didn't mean any offence last time I commented and implied you were Canadian. You might want to take that as a compliment. You sound a bit Canadian. And your just as well mannered as them.
Well the early 318 used adjustable rockers but you needed different push rods to use them. I had a set I was going to try but I couldn't find the push rods or whatever else to use them. I think the wide block 318 used them, maybe the early 273 hi po too. Bad luck on the oil pump but it happens. Pretty sure the pump on those is internal so more work to change out. Take the offer from the guy in here who said he'd pay for a chassis dyno when you get it fixed up.
@@happyhermit6899 Well I seem to remember there was a way to run them in the newer 318. Pretty sure it was the pushrods had a ball on one end to run it properly but I seem to remember a few people actually making them work when they figured out the combination. I just thought it would be cool to have the best of both worlds and never got everything I needed to try it. Even if it is possible finding the parts now might be pretty hard. Either way get that oil pump replaced and get the pushrods or lifters figured out and get the distributor figured out and it should rock.
Nick is such a gracious person but I bet he was thinking thanks for wasting my time, I have better things to do and real paying customers to serve. You will probably find that there is an oil gallery plug missing or loose, or too much rod and or main bearing clearance or to much cam bearing clearance. Another shotgun low to no budget build by Tony who measures things with two Popsicle sticks and a worn-out yardstick if he measures at all. The good thing is you should be able to milk this all summer now and have more people feel sorry for you and donate. You usually don't have much luck building engines like Frankenstein's monster using old parts. Anything worth doing especially when building engines is worth doing right. And if you can't afford to do it right leave it alone until you can.
I knew that was an uncle Tony engine when I saw it that’s the one nick dyno’d at 239HP if memory serves, I can build 350’s N/A that make almost 1000hp with no power adder
my 318 doesn't drop pressure under high speed load it drop pressure to zero when its hot at idle. I was thinking about restricting oil flow to the rocker arms with a restrictor of some type? Your motor might have a tolerence issue? or a wide open bypass on the oil pump?
Oil pressure is supposed to increase as RPM does (up to a point) not lose oil pressure. Is the pan being sucked dry of oil (so to speak) at the higher revs? Something definitely not kosher here. I'm very curious to find out what it is that's causing this weird problem.
I didn't read through the 300+ comments so sorry if it's already been asked. Did anyone prime and verify the oil pressure when the marathon build was done?? Good luck with the satellite, following along. Stay positive! Thanks !
Just so everyone knows, getting the real mopar lifters is actually pretty difficult. They sell AMC lifters as replacements because they will work in everything with the right length pushrods. Its been this way for at least 10 years. They will work in magnum headed engines with flat tappet cams, AMC's, and stock mopars. Makes it easier for the aftermarket to just make one type of lifter instead of 2. Problem is, you now need to measure the pushrods on every engine to make sure they work.
Super low budget builds end up costing you more money in the long run. Your time is worth something too, the older you get the more you recognize this...
@@LunarOutlawsGarage Hold on , IF you would have installed the motor back in the CAR and hooked everything up to find out your oil pump was NFG , you got to unhook EVERYTHING and pull it all the way out of the car to stuff a good pump in .
@@LunarOutlawsGarage you didn't loose time, you gained knowledge and experience. there are a bunch of people that wish they could be on your adventure.
Yeah. Best be patient and put it new top to bottom. That's what I did with my 440,and that's been 22 years ago and I still drive and race it time to time.
Question ? low oil pressure right, well not to rain on this but , IS IT the oil pump ? I don't remember seeing Tony plastic gauge all the bearings in the build ? also did you install new Cam Bearings in the block ??? Both of these will KILL oil pressure big time.
@@LunarOutlawsGarage Cam bearings rarely ever go bad. The only time you need to replace cam bearings is when you hot tank the block. Cam bearings must be removed before doing so.
Yeah that's what I was thinking. It doesn't take much of an oil pump to get the few pounds you need unless clearances are too big or lifters are the wrong ones. Or a oil passage gallery plug is missing, but those guys would have noticed that.
@@electrix6751 New oil pumps rarely are bad as well. My thinking now ( after hearing there are AMC lifters in it ) is that these are the wrong lifters but it still could be cam bearings as that is a number 1 place to loose oil pressure as where does the oil go after it leaves the oil pump ? Cam bearings & main & rod bearings. Again a bore gauge & mics tell the real story , yeah I know, I sound like a machinist with 50 years experience, what do I know. PS --- I don't use plastic gauge either ! as I have a full set of snap & American made Standard brand ( the best there is ) Bore gauges from .625 all the way up to 6.125 that can identify size & out of round, plus a full set of Starrett mics 0 up to 12 inches with standards.
It makes it more risky when you mix and match parts from other engines like you did. If you could’ve built a complete engine things would’ve gone better. Especially if you heard it run and it had good oil pressure. In those cases I just inspect the original pump and use it again.
_"It makes it more risky when you mix and match parts from other engines like you did. "_ Amen, you're 100 percent correct. Mixing and matching parts like that is basically gambling.
If it's not an electronics product and it says "Made in China" I don't buy it--ESPECIALLY if it's a crucial engine part which I suspect this parts store oil pump Lunar purchased is.
Great job Lunar. A lot of hard work and time spent. First of all, ignore the haters, because there will always be some bench racing know it all that will beak off. You guys did awesome It can be hard doing this as there are so many variables that go into this. You can spend a day of dyno time chasing bugs. Which is what it's for in a way, if it's your dyno. Obviously it's nice to run an engine in on a run stand before making a trip, but that was the deal. Let's be straight, I'm not ripping anyone. I'm only putting this out there as I feel like certain people are gonna make derogatory comments, and I know how much work it can take the day of the dyno test.
@@LunarOutlawsGarage Of course, and you'll get your dyno numbers soon enough. Try not to be disappointed. Unless you own the dyno it's hard to have every duck in a row. Particularly if it's a person's first time, or they haven't been for a bunch of years it's even harder. They 5 or so years I worked in a shop with a dyno, I don't recall one time that someone showed up with a motor that had never fired yet and had a full pull by the end of the session. Out of curiosity, how long (time wise) did you/Nick's crew spend on the engine together in the dyno room that day?
So what did it make during the 2 aborted pulls? Surprised Nick didn’t have an oil pump in stock for you. Since it sounds like it was going low with rpm wonder if it was an oil drain back issue?
bcbloc02. Big block oil pumps in stock. Dropping oil pressure when the oil heated to operating temperature. Testing was to see where the oil pressure would reach at 5000 RPM's.
Electrix because I have a new in the box Melling high volume pump for small block Chrysler sitting on the shelf in my parts trailer and i haven’t worked on one in 20 years. I thought the things were everywhere. Lol
It first off needs the correct lifter........ a good oil pump should be next on the list.......... then I would use a pushrod length checker and get the right pushrods....... then the timing at 32-34 degrees.......... I don’t know if it has enough duration to make power at 6300-6400 rpm but I’m guessing around 5800-5900rpm it should make near 340hp
Good set up never trust comp cams if you a Mopar guy you Hughes is the best or straight Mopar stuff like utg said comp sent the wrong lifters I had a comp cam the lifters keep bleeding down
Don't go cheap, do it right the first time n save-a-lot of time and money. Maybe change your handle from Uncle Tony to Shadetree Specialities. Sorry guys.
Hang in there nothing I saw on the video looked catastrophic. When you put in the new pump check the pickup to pan clearance should be 1/2 to 5/8 if it's too close it will lose pressure at high rpm. I personally think the sbm needs the hv pump always used them in race engines the heads drain back better than Ford's or Chevy's. I think your pushrods should be the right length unless you machine the block and heads excessivluly. Oil to the top of a small block Mopar takes the scenic route so it's the first thing to dry up when pressure is low. Rockers are oiled through the rocker shaft, from the cam bearings which are oiled from the mains. So a bottom end issue sometimes looks like a rocker or pushrod problem. Find the old Mopar performance book on building small block race engines it's full of solid advice.
@@michaelstrafello8025 ok I missed uncle Tony's reply, and the AMC lifter issue. I was just trying to help and keep everyone encouraged. I never used the AMC lifters or the lifters for a magnum engine so that's uncharted territory for me. My experience with hydraulic cammed Mopar engines was always to much lifter preload, but the engine did sound like it had a bunch of valve lash but I thought maybe it was the recording. Some of the comments I did see were kind of scary so I thought I would try and help.
Nick is a mopar legend
Lemme jump in here and help Brian out with these comments. He's not as technically versed as Nick and I are, so this may make things a bit clearer.
First, pushrod length. Nick and I compared notes on the phone yesterday and came to the same conclusions.
The lifters Comp supplied are the AMC style. I measured them against the stock Chrysler lifter yesterday ( Several examples of each) and on average the AMC style lifter has a pushrod cup .025 lower than the OE Chryslers. If the engine had been assembled with the original thickness steel shim head gaskets (which are no longer available) the stock length pushrods would have been OK. As it stands, the stock length pushrods provide zero preload. Two of the 16 were about .020 shorter than the others (production tolerances) and those were the ones tapping.
This brings us to the oil issues.
The AMC style lifter oils the rockertrain through the pushrods...OE Chryslers do not. The engine uses solid pushrods. Because there was no preload on the lifters, oil was free to leak from between the lifter cup and the base of the pushrods. In other words each lifter/pushrod contact point represented an internal oil leak. A high volume pump would have overcame this issue for the most part. Nick had no SB pumps on hand and it was late in the day when the oil issue was found.
Ignition Timing. When nick timed the engine, he did it at 32 degrees total at 2000 RPM. We agreed that 32 would be about optimum here. What nick didn't realize is that I had NOT curved the distributor. It had stock advance springs in it, that would not bring full advance in until past 3500 RPM. When they made the two aborted pulls, the engine was seeing approximately 46 degrees of spark advance...WAY no bueno for this thing. To Nicks credit, he cut the pulls at 5000 rpm which saved this thing from going into severe detonation. Things could have gotten real ugly!
Numbers. The two pulls were cut at 5000 rpm. 5000 is pretty much where this combination should start to make power, and peak should have been between 6200 and 6500. As it was, 4600 was peak at 250 horsepower and then it dove hard. That's where detonation took over. That's also where we got lucky and Nick pulled the plug.
With more time and a thorough run in/break in, all of these issues would have been found and corrected...these things are par for the course. But, because time was EXTREMELY limited, this is how things worked out.
Brian will regroup, Nick and I both have his back, and we'll get to see real results as soon as it's practical to do so. My prediction? 350 horse at 6300. We'll see how it rolls.
well said , well written , bryan your in good hands uncle tony and nick got your back, combined these two gents got more knowledge put together than any of the chrysler engineers ... and i will get the pizzas and poutine when you come back to nicks garage for the real dyno pulls
UTG said: _"The lifters Comp supplied are the AMC style."_
I said: WTF??? Why??? How could they make such a blunder??? Or was it deliberate?
I prefer KW over hp 😉🙃🤣😂
What is it again 5252rpm ?
Idk I'm high on gasoline and brake clean.
Thanks uncle tony my prediction was 346hp glad to see I was close to you
Well spoken Tony. Yes, I did forget to back up the timing. My mind was on the oil pressure all the time. Let's fix it and get it back on the dyno.
This all sounds so familiar. I played the same games with valvetrain issues on my old 318 back in the early 80's. But by the time we got things right, I knew that engine inside and out. I wish I had a place to work on stuff now. Oh well, I guess I'll have to settle for watching you thrash it. Btw, I used to keep an old POS block in the backyard with a sledgehammer right next to it. Whenever we got frustrated beyond hope.......just head out back and beat the shit out of that thing for a few minutes. It was the ultimate way to mellow out. That, and a few six-packs. Enjoy the journey. The only thing you usually have left are the memories. (and the tickets)
That's what I use my wood pile and spitting maul for.
Good job Lunar hope you learned from Nick and ol Tony too,what a great learning experience....
I had a blast and I wish you could Absorb knowledge from people just by being next to them
Nick, Uncle Tony, Brian dont listen to the haters! This was an awesome project. Very interested in what caused the low oil pressure. Motor sounds great!
No preload due to having the wrong/too short lifters.
It will get there
Bless you man for saving another classic and a Mopar also makes it more cooler.
Awesome! I enjoy all your positivity, good going to see it all the way through.
thank you man. we only live once right
U went to the right man. Nick is 1 of the v8 gods
I'm glad it wasn't as bad as could have been. Now you can look forward to getting it repaired and back in your car.
Absolutely 🤘
Congratulations on a Mission Accomplished.
Yeah Tony really helped you out
Mad props for your effort.It will make victory taste that much sweeter!
thank you man it was a heck of a road trip with great people, and a great way of going from engines like what my supra has to old school. it gets me even more pumped to get the LS for the GS together.
"Mad props"? What the hell does that mean? (Googles the term). Gamer geek slang. I'm glad I never got into that stupidity. I was busy devouring ever issue of Car Craft, Hot Rod, Popular Hot Rodding, Super Stock & Drag Illustrated, etc. and playing basketball and other sports when I wasn't reading those mags back when I was a teenager--not playing stupid video games which were not around back then, thank God. Nor would I if they had been!
Ah an occasional game of pong didn't hurt me air hockey was another story dangerous when we played it
I sure miss my 72 Sebring Plus. It had a lotta rust, but it was arrow straight and had a strong 318. A guy made me an offer I couldnt refuse, and I needed the dough. I'm happy to say he's fixed it up really nice.
That is awesome. I only regret selling selling one car. It was my 2nd Supra, it ran like a top and would do the quarter mile in 12.7. The kid I saw the two thought I could make it better within a week he butchered it so bad. then it sat for three years before His father crushed it.
Nick is just an awesome human being. It's just that simple.
Thanks can't wait to see what it pulls
Thanks for chiming in Tony...us noobs need all the info we can get. Keep on plugging Brian...it'll get better!
The Mopar 318's are pretty much bullet proof and you can waken them up, but if you want try Crower Cams and Rhodes Lifters combo, they'll give you really good vacuum at idle and good power up to 5500 rpm. Check with Crower on what lift you need for your applications and they'll not disappoint!
Lunar! Thank you, thank you, thank you for making the trek to Montreal! Much respect! Your tenacity and enthusiasm are exactly what we need! Its been an awesome project to watch thus far and I can not wait for 2.0. Have a safe return!
Sorry to hear/see about the issues with the engine. It sounds pretty healthy! I would say with all the issues fixed, properly tuned with headers, it would put out about 364 or so HP & somewhere around 390 FT LB of torque. As Nick said a Melling oil pump, that's what I always use & never had a problem with them, not say anything bad about the other brands. I wish you the best with it & look forward to seeing what numbers it pulls.
Thank you man always moving forward
Thumbs up to Nicks STAFF!! Really tore it apart fast.
They are very impressive
@@LunarOutlawsGarage Home court helps a bunch
Nicks crew is awesome
That little 318 sounded awesome
I cant wait till it is sitting in the Satellite
@@LunarOutlawsGarage i wounder what it will do in a quarter mile
The push rods where to short and the oil pump was week.
Thanks man. Sounds like you have a good project going 🤘
G'day Lunar. Looks like it was an awesome day. Can't wait to see the 318 up and running. 👍
wow that is so cool being there in person then watching it on lunaroutlaws garage on you tube ,,and getting to see my award winning mustang and the fury on your channel ...bryan was a real treat spending the day with you it was alot of fun , cant wait to see that 318 scream on the dyno in the near future
It was really awesome meeting you man. I cant wait to get back up there
@@LunarOutlawsGarage next round we get real montreal pizza and our famous poutine 😝
jim gee. Yassou.
This is a stretch but look on the front ID pad of the engine and look for any symbols such as a diamond or cross shape. I have built two 340s in the past years that were produced with oversized lifters on at least one bore. They are usually .008” oversized. I was able to locate NOS lifters for them. These blocks are stamped with these symbols.
Bryan. You have many comments to read. Join the club.
Yes I do 🤘
LunarOutlaw’s Garage thers a few haters about tony but fuck them I think tony did a good job he done the heads that motor sounds strong at 5000 rpm so like tony says it will make at least 350 I bet I’ve had a 318 that was about the same
Holy crap! Nick used a power tool!
I really hope An look forward to you taking it back up to nicks again to do another dyno run so we can see what it runs for horsepower an torque etc.. went this far dont not do it man .. definately fix what ya got to an hope you keep in it an get it back up as soon as you can An not let this thing sit an become another shoved off to the side project .. I really do look forward to see the final results .. I will keep notifications on so to know when your back up to nicks .. 👍
I promise it will make it back up there
You gave it a hell of a go. I have been a sub of Nick's for about 1 year. He does a awesome job. Take care and keep on building.
He is great very nice guy 100%
This was a fun thing too watch and follow along with. In a way I am kinda happy it didn't work on the first time, because now we get to go on to round 2😀😀😀👍
Glad I got to see this. Thank you. Hopefully the engine stand is ready to go.
Love this video for the other reason of Behind the scenes at Nicks Garage! Thank you LunarOutlaw for the video. And you are in good hands with two well versed Mopar Builders
Awesome man
You can use amc lifters on a la small block only with magnum heads. Plus. Magnum head gaskets. Use ford or chevy roller rocker arms and and use a push rod checker.
Excellent !!! I have no doubt you'll get it sorted this is par for the course with these types ofbuilds. It's a minor issue. IMHO the motor sounded strong
it will sound even better in the car :D
When you head up to Nick’s again, I am about 4 hr south of Montreal in Vermont. Lots of Mopars in the area including a B-body in my garage. I’ll even buy dinner.
you ran what you had i respect that!! not many will!
Awesome video. I hope all 3 ( Nick, Tony, you) of you can meet up sometime.
that would be sweet I can host the half way point lol
@@LunarOutlawsGarage meet up at carlisle this year.
Tell ya what Lunar... Since it didn't go well on the engine dyno, I would like to pay for you to put it on a chassis Dyno once you get it in the car and the bugs worked out... We will find a Chassis Dyno Shop near you and make it happen if possible!! I know how things can go on the Dyno and it is frustrating to say they least... I look forward to the future!
Andy
Unity Motorsports Garage
Thanks man we have a lot of chassis dynos around here. First thing is first sort out the Satellite. 🤙😁🤙
@@LunarOutlawsGarage well.. I know the pain of having small issues that kill you on the Dyno... I know you are planning another trip up to Nick's but I'm serious about my offer... On my 393 Windsor I made 575hp flywheel, at the wheels through a C4 with 4500 stall converter and a 9" rear... It dropped to 408 RWHP!!! So if you do get your Flywheel #'s we can see how efficient your drivetrain is... Awesome job from your Top Ford Fan,
Andy
Hey Andy. Ur a good dude. I’m in fort mil. Let me know when you run your truck again.
@@happyhermit6899 Hopefully Soon! I have a big announcement about Casper's engine coming up!!! It is going to be AMAZING!!! Stay tuned!
Thank you for the kind words as well.. I want to see Lunar succeed at this project! Because he has poured his heart and soul into this deal...
Do some more tiding of the garage and you'll find somewhere to put the stand ;) Sorry that the dyno day didn't go to plan but I think we all learned something from this ! Cant wait for Part II
I'm glad you're happy. There is so many issues with that dyno session, I don't know where to start first. Since people on UA-cam (like Facebook) live in a pretend world and have trouble dealing with reality, I'm not going to go into any of them. So congrats on getting it running, lets hope it stays that way.
What you talking about nick know how to do a dyno session and well seen him do many
Dodgy Brothers Engineering that motor sounded strong at 5000 so it will not come apart I don’t know what issuers you are talking about nick pretty much works on mopars so I know he know his stuff it’s a junk motor what you expect
@@jeffleblanc8850 any monkey can be taught to press buttons, it takes skill and intelligence to properly tune on a dyno. Nick exhibited neither on this particular occasion. He was fluttering the throttle to try get oil pressure up. Shit if that isn't a major red flag, nothing ever will be. There is no greater cardinal sin that to rev any engine without adequate oil pressure (not unless you own shares in a bearing, crank, rod and piston business). The problem is there are a lot of cowboy tuners on UA-cam, and many of the great tuners are quiet guys just getting on with the job in their workshops. Nick picked up a couple of obvious problems, but there was nothing earth shattering about the diagnosis. I've watched a few of his videos, he is an OK mechanic but he's nothing to write home about.
@@jeffleblanc8850 if that engine sounded strong to you, then I suggest that you never take up engine tuning for a living. That thing rattled from the instant it was started up. I know he was trying to break the cam in, but I would have stopped the session and started looking for the cause long before he did. You only need to run the cam at above 2000 rpm while the engine is running, nothing stopped him turning off the engine and looking for issues long before he did.
Hello Brian... just subscribed to your channel... love too see you turning wrenches, getting dirty an making videos with no camera help. Keep up the hard work..Bless you.😀
thank you David I hope you enjoy the projects and future adventures.
She fired up nice and quick.
At least she runs man!!! Sounds good too!! You'll get it sorted out!!
Thanks man. 🤘 time to sort the car out. No use having a engine without a car lol
Nice to see you over on his channel,
Hey, yer learnin, kid. Keep it up. I'm about halfway between you and Tony on the knowledge and experience. Probably closer to YOU, lol, even though I'm 55 and been messin with Mopars since 1984.
Thanks🤘we learn something every day
@@LunarOutlawsGarage This is my first day on your channel. I've followed Tony for about a month and Nick for two months. As I watch your clips, I realize you're not as green as I thought! In fact, on some makes you know far more than I do. You're just green on old MOPARS. All I know is old Mopars and Fords.
Now you know what's needed should be really good once you do the changes can't wait to see the final results
Thank you man. It is a stout engine now to move forward
Glued to the video!!💪😊😷
Even though the oil pump will be new, dissemble it and check it for crud, I had one that had machining debris in it.
Absolutely man
@@LunarOutlawsGarage Get the correct hi pressure pump, not a high volume pump , see my other post.
Wallace. We had the oil pump removed and checked for any debris damage. Looked good and installed it back in the motor. Checked one main bearing, and was clean.
Too many debates on old pump types I have always used high volume pumps with no issues at all including buick engines which is not a bolt on thing you have to make it work just a bunch of pieces I agree with tony on oil leaking out the top of lifters 16 oil leaks = low oil pressure think about it
@@nickpanaritis4122 Thank you for the additional information.
You just need to have Nick rebuild that 318 if you want a good motor. If you want to have good oil pressure it has to be hot tanked or completely dipped in DRx bath for about an hour.
That’s why they call it a dyno test! To check for issues. Good luck and keep the videos coming
Thank you man. I will get the pump and pushrods sorted then and keep moving forward
MV72 melling is the oil pump you want, and mod it for a 1/2 pickup. Lash caps on the valves MAY help if you don’t want to swap lifters.( or just keep milling the heads,lol)
that is great advice I am going to be ordering parts for the engine and the car tomorrow
LunarOutlaw’s Garage g’day from Australia too mate!!!UPPA!!!!
Sorry things didn't work out like you hoped but, like others have said, the cam is broken in and issues were discovered before bolting it in the car. Can't wait to see it back on the dyno - but probably not as much as you! Good stuff Lunar - ~Q
at least you know how to fix the problems! before you know it the new oil pump will be in👍 I'm a ford fan so seeing the falcon. from mad max was cool as hell brings me back to the early 80s when i was kid watching it on HBO!
One of my absolute favorite movies. And I like how it was just like the hero’s car
You need to know why the pushrods are too short. Bad rockers? Did you mill the heads? That's job one.
Lets do it!!! Lunar!!!
Well put uncle Tony you are the man...!!!
Not long ago on UA-cam I saw this fella using a kit and they were adjustable length pushrods with some really soft springs and I’m sure you’re aware of it but for the other readers you basically connect compressed air to the spark plug hole and that holds the valves up while you remove the standard springs and replace those with a really light spring and then you insert this adjustable pushrod mark the top of the valve stem with a sharpie or something and dial in the correct length so the Rocker is pushing smack in the middle of the valve stem probably more applicable to roller rockers I don’t know
but nevertheless I wonder if on this occasion that would’ve helped....
Naturally once you’ve got the optimal pushrod length you can order a set or maybe make the necessary adjustments some other way......
I have never seen it before and I really liked it
A adventure it is man wow .....but hey part 2 coming soon to be continued .....looking forward to it.....🤙👍🤘
Nick is a doctor of engines
getting ready to Embark in the Journey of my 1990 318 roller Motor give a new guy a fallow back we are slow right now but ill pic it up
I can see George for the first time lol
When’s your engine going to be on nicks channel?
George was incredibly nice and really tall. I hope soon I cant wait to get the his perspective on it
Do they video everyday?
@@pjm8047 . We video once a week at Nick's Garage.
You can see me ?
Brian, I just joined you and your channel and I have to say you're in great hands with Uncle Tony and Nick. Looking forward for the next video. I certainly hope all of the debris is out of the engine for you. Don't want to see you have any issues!! 👍👍👍
Thanks man. Yup the engine is coming back apart to find the oil problem and sort out the bugs, then it will be back up to nicks. A big thank you to nick an John Wilburn they have been very helpful sorting out what went wrong. nick has given me a great list of places to look to see why there was a 40psi drop in oil pressure. Unfortunately after this video tony walked away from the collaboration, but I am committed to complete the task.
Brian, one thing that I can share with everyone is "Cleanliness is next to Godliness", lol. I've built a lot of "budget" engines in my day, as a hobby and it only takes a microscopic speck to cause engine failure. Do me a favor, if by chance you are removing the crankshaft, check the gaps between the crankshaft and the bearings with "no gauge" I think it's called, lol. It's a green thin plastic strip that you cut into pieces and put between the bearing and the crankshaft. On the outside of the wrapper that it comes in, is the " go or no go" measurement for the tolerances. If for some reason the crankshaft has been turned 10 under, this could be another problem with oil pressure. If you can, also "blow out" the oiling holes in the crankshaft and the engine block with a rag and compressed air to remove any hidden debris, unless you are going to hot tank it to be safer.
Anyway, I only wish the best and I am looking forward to seeing you unleash the beast!!!
Mike Brown that was the major thing that Tony and I were talking about. When I was up to nicks the engine oil drop down to 18 psi, and Tony said that wouldn’t be enough to turn the idiot light on the dashboard. So when I was talking to nick the other day I told him this. Before I went down I mentioned to Tony that I believe the engine had been disassembled and reassembled at one point. While we were building it he said that whoever reassembled it had no idea what they were doing. Now back to when I was disassembling it the bearings in the mains had been standard. However I propose to Nick that maybe the person who put the bearings and put standard in and it really needed a dif. Size bearing. When Tony Assembled the rotating assembly he skipped using Plastigage. Nick agreed that would be why we had a 40psi drop in the oil pressure when it got up to operating temp. So when i start the disassembly next week that will be the first thing I do.
@@LunarOutlawsGarage Sad to read that Tony backed out, his loss. Remain positive and learn from your experiences, mistakes.
Many good things were learned here by LunarOutlaw's efforts with UTG and Nick's. It's good to think of how many of us have gone through and built an engine, shoving it around and balancing it on a milk crate on the garage floor, then hoisted it directly into the car... only then to find an oil pressure or some other problem. That's when you learn to build some kind of engine run-in stand.
Yup I have done that so many times it is not even funny.
Listening to the audio on the revs, sounds Healthy. Whew.....
so happy it didn't gut its self
Cam bearings most important for oil pressure.
Not the results hoped for but. It's a learning process. Done quickly. Now you know where to focus on
Are you looking oil pressure in the lifter bores with wrong (AMC) lifter? The oil groove on the lifter may be dropping out of the note. Had this issue with an olds once with substituted lifters in a kit. Compare the oil grooves between Mopar and you AMC ones. Just a thought.
Sounds pretty good for a 1st start.
yup nick is a pro
@@LunarOutlawsGarage Didn't mean any offence last time I commented and implied you were Canadian. You might want to take that as a compliment. You sound a bit Canadian. And your just as well mannered as them.
Well the early 318 used adjustable rockers but you needed different push rods to use them. I had a set I was going to try but I couldn't find the push rods or whatever else to use them.
I think the wide block 318 used them, maybe the early 273 hi po too.
Bad luck on the oil pump but it happens. Pretty sure the pump on those is internal so more work to change out.
Take the offer from the guy in here who said he'd pay for a chassis dyno when you get it fixed up.
Only 273 had adjustable rockers. They had solid cams. Poly 318s for the same reason. Different engine.
@@happyhermit6899 Well I seem to remember there was a way to run them in the newer 318. Pretty sure it was the pushrods had a ball on one end to run it properly but I seem to remember a few people actually making them work when they figured out the combination. I just thought it would be cool to have the best of both worlds and never got everything I needed to try it.
Even if it is possible finding the parts now might be pretty hard. Either way get that oil pump replaced and get the pushrods or lifters figured out and get the distributor figured out and it should rock.
Nick is such a gracious person but I bet he was thinking thanks for wasting my time, I have better things to do and real paying customers to serve. You will probably find that there is an oil gallery plug missing or loose, or too much rod and or main bearing clearance or to much cam bearing clearance. Another shotgun low to no budget build by Tony who measures things with two Popsicle sticks and a worn-out yardstick if he measures at all. The good thing is you should be able to milk this all summer now and have more people feel sorry for you and donate. You usually don't have much luck building engines like Frankenstein's monster using old parts. Anything worth doing especially when building engines is worth doing right. And if you can't afford to do it right leave it alone until you can.
Tony sent lunar outlaw one a fools errand, haha then blames him ok there bud. 😂
I forgot to mention how much I have enjoyed the whole adventure. It was of epic proportions.
Thank you man that was amazing I really appreciate it. It will go right back into the next chapter of the adventure 🤙
I knew that was an uncle Tony engine when I saw it that’s the one nick dyno’d at 239HP if memory serves, I can build 350’s N/A that make almost 1000hp with no power adder
The most photographed engine on earth
my 318 doesn't drop pressure under high speed load it drop pressure to zero when its hot at idle. I was thinking about restricting oil flow to the rocker arms with a restrictor of some type? Your motor might have a tolerence issue? or a wide open bypass on the oil pump?
Oil pressure is supposed to increase as RPM does (up to a point) not lose oil pressure. Is the pan being sucked dry of oil (so to speak) at the higher revs? Something definitely not kosher here. I'm very curious to find out what it is that's causing this weird problem.
Finally got it to the Dyno so how was it that you met Nick wish I could meet him someday.
Nick is a super nice guy. It is cool to see his wheels turning he has a lot of knowledge packed away.
Hopefully the new pump solves the problem. I want to see the numbers 😁
Go LUNAR!!
🤘🤘🤘
That old girl is saying, "I wanna go back home to the junkyard."
Keep up the good work
Good luck!
Remember when I put A360 crank in A340
I didn't read through the 300+ comments so sorry if it's already been asked. Did anyone prime and verify the oil pressure when the marathon build was done?? Good luck with the satellite, following along. Stay positive! Thanks !
Sweet we loved our visit! Have you seen our video at Nicks? Cheers
Nick is an absolutely amazing guy and one of the nicest people I’ve ever meet. Yes sir 😁🤙 I subscribed you have great content over there.
Just so everyone knows, getting the real mopar lifters is actually pretty difficult. They sell AMC lifters as replacements because they will work in everything with the right length pushrods. Its been this way for at least 10 years. They will work in magnum headed engines with flat tappet cams, AMC's, and stock mopars. Makes it easier for the aftermarket to just make one type of lifter instead of 2.
Problem is, you now need to measure the pushrods on every engine to make sure they work.
Super low budget builds end up costing you more money in the long run. Your time is worth something too, the older you get the more you recognize this...
That is true you can always make more money you’ve never get time back
@@LunarOutlawsGarage Hold on , IF you would have installed the motor back in the CAR and hooked everything up to find out your oil pump was NFG , you got to unhook EVERYTHING and pull it all the way out of the car to stuff a good pump in .
I’ve seen $15k engine shit theirselves on the dyno.
@@LunarOutlawsGarage you didn't loose time, you gained knowledge and experience. there are a bunch of people that wish they could be on your adventure.
Yeah. Best be patient and put it new top to bottom. That's what I did with my 440,and that's been 22 years ago and I still drive and race it time to time.
Question ? low oil pressure right, well not to rain on this but , IS IT the oil pump ? I don't remember seeing Tony plastic gauge all the bearings in the build ? also did you install new Cam Bearings in the block ??? Both of these will KILL oil pressure big time.
no I brought new cam bearings down for his block but he said his where good so i think it has more to do with the week oil pump and short push rods
@@ThatOneUselessUsername Good for Uncle Tony. I do and so do others who don't have access to precision measuring instruments.
@@LunarOutlawsGarage Cam bearings rarely ever go bad. The only time you need to replace cam bearings is when you hot tank the block. Cam bearings must be removed before doing so.
Yeah that's what I was thinking. It doesn't take much of an oil pump to get the few pounds you need unless clearances are too big or lifters are the wrong ones.
Or a oil passage gallery plug is missing, but those guys would have noticed that.
@@electrix6751 New oil pumps rarely are bad as well. My thinking now ( after hearing there are AMC lifters in it ) is that these are the wrong lifters but it still could be cam bearings as that is a number 1 place to loose oil pressure as where does the oil go after it leaves the oil pump ? Cam bearings & main & rod bearings. Again a bore gauge & mics tell the real story , yeah I know, I sound like a machinist with 50 years experience, what do I know. PS --- I don't use plastic gauge either ! as I have a full set of snap & American made Standard brand ( the best there is ) Bore gauges from .625 all the way up to 6.125 that can identify size & out of round, plus a full set of Starrett mics 0 up to 12 inches with standards.
It makes it more risky when you mix and match parts from other engines like you did. If you could’ve built a complete engine things would’ve gone better. Especially if you heard it run and it had good oil pressure. In those cases I just inspect the original pump and use it again.
_"It makes it more risky when you mix and match parts from other engines like you did. "_
Amen, you're 100 percent correct. Mixing and matching parts like that is basically gambling.
This is a professional mechanic,unlike Shadetree (guru) Uncle Tony...so sloppy
Says the guy with 3 subscribers.
Good news is that its broken in. And you get to dyno it again.
yes sir better to fight another day right
One could question why you used offshore junk parts on it, but hey half the point of this project is to learn things right ;)
If it's not an electronics product and it says "Made in China" I don't buy it--ESPECIALLY if it's a crucial engine part which I suspect this parts store oil pump Lunar purchased is.
@@electrix6751 Ah, we all make that mistake sometimes.
Nice Accomplishment
Thank you
Great job Lunar. A lot of hard work and time spent.
First of all, ignore the haters, because there will always be some bench racing know it all that will beak off. You guys did awesome
It can be hard doing this as there are so many variables that go into this.
You can spend a day of dyno time chasing bugs. Which is what it's for in a way, if it's your dyno. Obviously it's nice to run an engine in on a run stand before making a trip, but that was the deal.
Let's be straight, I'm not ripping anyone. I'm only putting this out there as I feel like certain people are gonna make derogatory comments, and I know how much work it can take the day of the dyno test.
Thank you man it was an awesome chapter of the project .
@@LunarOutlawsGarage
Of course, and you'll get your dyno numbers soon enough.
Try not to be disappointed.
Unless you own the dyno it's hard to have every duck in a row. Particularly if it's a person's first time, or they haven't been for a bunch of years it's even harder.
They 5 or so years I worked in a shop with a dyno, I don't recall one time that someone showed up with a motor that had never fired yet and had a full pull by the end of the session.
Out of curiosity, how long (time wise) did you/Nick's crew spend on the engine together in the dyno room that day?
@@jhammy444 . About 8 hours.
Clickedy, clackedy!
So what did it make during the 2 aborted pulls? Surprised Nick didn’t have an oil pump in stock for you. Since it sounds like it was going low with rpm wonder if it was an oil drain back issue?
What's so surprising? Nick's shop is not an auto parts store.
bcbloc02. Big block oil pumps in stock. Dropping oil pressure when the oil heated to operating temperature. Testing was to see where the oil pressure would reach at 5000 RPM's.
That and not a store with in 100 miles from me had a oil pump I had to order one
Electrix because I have a new in the box Melling high volume pump for small block Chrysler sitting on the shelf in my parts trailer and i haven’t worked on one in 20 years. I thought the things were everywhere. Lol
It first off needs the correct lifter........ a good oil pump should be next on the list.......... then I would use a pushrod length checker and get the right pushrods....... then the timing at 32-34 degrees.......... I don’t know if it has enough duration to make power at 6300-6400 rpm but I’m guessing around 5800-5900rpm it should make near 340hp
20.03 water leak dripping down the block.
So how does Nick break in camshafts, but never has to worry about breaking in piston rings?
If this thing makes power it’s cause of tony head work
The motor is still a project and the satellite is still a project so I’m happy. Fix it please.🚗🔧❤️
Absolutely man🤘🤘
buen video...pero la bomba de agua para donde gira ,,,a la derecha o izquierda?
Good set up never trust comp cams if you a Mopar guy you Hughes is the best or straight Mopar stuff like utg said comp sent the wrong lifters I had a comp cam the lifters keep bleeding down
Don't go cheap, do it right the first time n save-a-lot of time and money. Maybe change your handle from Uncle Tony to Shadetree Specialities. Sorry guys.
Hang in there nothing I saw on the video looked catastrophic. When you put in the new pump check the pickup to pan clearance should be 1/2 to 5/8 if it's too close it will lose pressure at high rpm. I personally think the sbm needs the hv pump always used them in race engines the heads drain back better than Ford's or Chevy's. I think your pushrods should be the right length unless you machine the block and heads excessivluly. Oil to the top of a small block Mopar takes the scenic route so it's the first thing to dry up when pressure is low. Rockers are oiled through the rocker shaft, from the cam bearings which are oiled from the mains. So a bottom end issue sometimes looks like a rocker or pushrod problem. Find the old Mopar performance book on building small block race engines it's full of solid advice.
I think you need the comments read the one from utg
@@michaelstrafello8025 ok I missed uncle Tony's reply, and the AMC lifter issue. I was just trying to help and keep everyone encouraged. I never used the AMC lifters or the lifters for a magnum engine so that's uncharted territory for me. My experience with hydraulic cammed Mopar engines was always to much lifter preload, but the engine did sound like it had a bunch of valve lash but I thought maybe it was the recording. Some of the comments I did see were kind of scary so I thought I would try and help.