You have given me some hope. I just found a set of 4 of these in my shed. May I ask how long you left them in the bbq each time. Thank you very much for this video
Lucky! I leave them in the BBQ at 450f using canola oil for an hour, then let them cool to 200 and repeat. I did this video a while back, I have a lot more tips to get great looking and performing pans, so let me know if you need any help. As a reference, I use the Stargazer Seasoning method, super easy and works very well for me. Which brand did you find by the way? Good luck!
@@NeedItMakeIt I didnt see a name on them, they are very rusty. I really appreciate you answering and taken the time to do these videos. Kind regards from Ireland.
@@jjmunna No problem, if I may pass a few helpful methods of cleaning cast iron to save you some time (unlike my method) they would be to use the self-clean cycle in your oven, letting them heat up with the cycle and cool with it also, or using vinegar in a large container with a lid and just let them sit for a few days in a warm place. I wish I knew these methods at the time I did this pan, but these came from viewers and they both seem to work well. Good luck, maybe you have a few treasures on your hands, you never know!
Do not do what this guy did he doesn't know what he's doing you never use power tools and he cast iron pan or any sandpaper or metal objects you will ruin your paint forever
To anyone reading this aside from the video creator, do not do what he did in the video. The best way to strip rust is either with a vinegar back or electrolysis. Wire wheeling or sanding or anything else both damages your piece as well as ruins any bit of collectibility. You’re also working way harder than you need too.
Thanks for the comment. I don't disagree with your comment, there are better ways, this was my first video about cast iron pans and have since learned of better cleaner methods as you suggest. This particular pan was set to go in the trash, I chose to take it for free and see what I could do with it.
This is the fastest way to ruin a vintage Griswold or BSR piece. If you do this do it on a lower quality pan as not to hurt the value of a higher quality piece
Collector's value aside (Couldn't care less about monetary value, I just want to make a pan useful again), the thing I think electrolysis won't fix, is if the surface is very uneven, with pitting and small holes. Grinding is the only way to get rid of those.
I have an old Wagner Ware pan. Not as bad as that. It looks like it had sat in something that rusted for a long time. This gives me hope it can be cleaned and made usable. Thank you
Ditch the grinder, do a vinegar bath and get in there with a scour pad and some rock salt. That saves the all the nice detail on the bottom. And if you use it to caramelise an onion after seasoning, it'll get rid of that metalic taste.
So true baking soda and vinegar removes a lot of the rust and removes any old seasoning. I find so many of these I would not work on one with that amount of piting inside
@@NeedItMakeIt I understand but you could have used lye tank to remove old seasoning and 50/50 white distilled vinegar and water for rust. Would have had some pitting when rust was eat away but with seasoning still a useable pan with no power tools.
Oh, they make good pistol targets in that shape. Try starting without the need for heavy grinding, if you have to grind you are changing the cooking properties of the piece, creating hot spots and uneven cooking.. Thickness matters, and uniform thickness even more so.
Yeah, I'd agree with that. Recently I've tried a carbon steel... otherwise known as a steel pan, it was warped when I received it, I was able to remove the warp with some carefully placed sledge hammer blows and some hardwood to distribute the blows just enough. It is fairly thin in comparison, and it does heat quite quickly. Nice for a quick egg over easy. On the downside, it doesn't heat as evenly as you mentioned.
Never grind, wire wheel or otherwise modify the material. Use lye, electrolysis or yellow cap Easy Off to remove organics and 50/50 vinegar/water to remove rust. Scrub with Dawn dish soap and a green scrubby and season. The method used destroyed the value of the pan and actually took way more work than traditional cleaning.
I cannot agree in this case, this skillet was given to me by the antique shop owner as it had no value and he planned on scrapping it, this is why I had no issues with taking an aggressive approach. On the subject of wire wheel and grinding, I agree that there are better ways; those ways would not address the deep pitting on the inside, nor the terribly warped bottom. The value in having a cast iron skillet is in the use of it. Since it should last a lifetime, and only gets better with age whereas others only deteriorate, you don't need to replace them every few years, they save you money, and that's much more important than concerning yourself with how much you can sell it for. This cast iron skillet was my first, so it is far from perfect, my newer videos do a much better job of giving context and reasons behind the decisions, so I thank you for your comment. Take care.
Am I the only one that saw the incredible pitting? People keep commenting on ruining its value using a grinder. What value? I don't care what brand that was, it was trash. At least the guy made the pan useful again.
“That’s not my pan. Mines was black, covered in soot. I could see meself in this in if I wanted to...those days are long past though..” - Old lady of White Orchard, Witcher 3
Isn’t that a shame that it was ruined. I would go to a different seasoning that is a bit higher heat range. I watched the one you did on mirror finish. I’m 65 years old and am doing a lodge corn bread pan. I used a dremel and sanding stones on low speed. I’m finishing up with sand paper. Those dividers are a pain. I really love buzzy wax. The temp is higher and leaves a great finish. The one thing I hate to see is cast iron that’s been ruined. Best of luck.
I have been reading quite a bit about seasoning oils, what makes a higher smoke point oil better than a lower one? I've recently had very good success with canola oil and it's cheap, people seem to think that flax oil and grape seed oil are the best. Flax has a low smoke point, and grape seed is high. I'm not so sure it matters after the polymerization process occurs, but I need to learn more. I will check out the wax you mention, I've never seen anyone use wax to season a pan.
I am Working on restoring a #6 Griswold and a #3 Wagner Both have a good amount of pitting damage. I am thinking to try to address this pitting issue by making a thin slurry of Oil and powdered Activated Charcoal. since true seasoning is built up over time cooking in the pan, where Oil is combining with carbon from the food That is cooked in it , creating a strong polymerized coating. My thinking is that the powdered Charcoal in the slurry would act like a filler, (Cast iron Bondo) . The process would be 1) heat pan to 200 - 250 degrees. 2) Coat pan in Charcoal slurry. 3) wipe off excess. 4) Heat to 475 degrees for one hour. 5) Repeat process after it cools. What do you think. Do you think it will work or just create a mess?
@@NeedItMakeIt Yes, I dont use the fire on high heat, I cook on 2 or 3, Iv never cracked a pan. Gas is much more precise in terms of setting your temp..
Wow!! You did a great, amazing job, bringing this pan back from junk!!! As far as a crack, there are iron shops, that can repair that, as well as warping without material being removed. Ide love to know the back story of how this pan was found it how it got in that condition that you got it, and if you are still giving it away, ide love to have and use it!!
I would just buy a new one. I don't have tools to do all of that😁😁😁😁😁but I understand the challenge in restoring the pan especially one that's been in the family for years.
Just got a Griswold and its in about the same shape as your's no cracks in it tho.. paid 10 dollars for it going to try vinegar and maybe have to get a steel brush and hand scrub it
Do yourself a favor and get a bucket of white vinegar. Saved alot of elbow grease. The pan in the video still has to much rust on the surface. Vinegar should help that.
I was not having great success at the time with vinegar, I think because my shop was so cold. I wonder if hot vinegar would work fast? I think the vinegar also leaves a darker etched finish for better seasoning and it looks better also.
Usually recommended to do 1 hour per coat, this completely solidifies each layer into that hard carbonized/polymer layer. That's the same reason they recommend only doing very thin coats. Cooling between is recommended, I've done it both ways and if you are using the BBQ you can recoat right on there when it is hot it will make a huge amount of smoke that isn't great inside the house. If you want to do this inside for just the pan bottoms, I season on the stove top and cover with a tight fitting lid for that pan size, it keeps the smoke in for the most part.
I suppose it depends on how bad it is, in most cases it will perform just fine. I personally prefer my pans to be fairly smooth on the inside so I sand and re-season them, in most cases it isn’t necessary unless you start with a new pan which was poorly cast.
Have you tried Evaporust? It isn't cheap but it is reusable and works very well. I'd love a tank full of it and just "Set it....annnndd forget it" I have tried electrolysis on my first rail track anvil, but the battery charger I was using was too under-powered and overheated, I'd need a professional charger I think, or maybe just a car battery.
Great video, just what I needed. I found one in about the same shape in our outhouse left by some previous owner. Now I know how to save it. Thank you!
@@mlferg Possibly a bad unused skillet that was simply heated red hot and carried to the outhouse to add some warmth in the winter season. But that is why there are chamber pots to do your business inside and then dispose of it. But your point is valid, not actually knowing.
@@adiahaalexander9359 Only time I can do lobster (1 time in the last several YEARS) is when Albertson's has the smaller 'models' frozen, whole, on sale at $7 a copy........too little meat for affordabiity; gotta make the food stamps last. Cheers from the Oil Patch in Central WY
Just wondering - why did you stop sanding the interior of the pan's surface with the remaining pits still there? Were the pits too deep to continue (and then you would just build the seasoning from there)? Wagners are some of the Holy Grail cast iron pans out there. Congrats on finding that. Great video - thanks!
You got it, the pits were far too deep and I didn't want to have to remove too much material to end up with the thinnest CI pan out there. I have another pan that we found in the woods that I've been meaning to do a restoration on, maybe that will make it into a video soon. Thanks!
Wonderful work. You have inspired me to go work on my collection tomorrow, especially my cast iron "cauldron". I love your videos but I have to turn the sound off for much of it because the sped up sanding and grinding noises make me feel like I am at the dentist.
Thanks, I like going to the dentist. It has taken me a long time to get the hang of video editing, now I change the volume on the grinding etc to me much lower... for your viewing pleasure. Please check out some of my newer ones and let me know what you think. I also have plans for some more cast iron related videos, some original ideas that I think are interesting and helpful.
I have a few that are in really rough shape but I don't have any of those tools. Is there a way to clean them without those tools? Should I hire someone to do it?
Seen just now. I probably would have gone for electrolisis for rust removal. Not sure the belly wasn't intended originally ( doesn't seem that cast Iron can moove so muche material to make a belly in time) It would have been nice try to mantain markings or remake faded ones (maybe making some masking and electroerosion if you fell lot so confortable engraving by hands). Nice worrk though.
Thanks for this. I had started to make a video of the repair of the crack using nickel 55 welding rod, but my welding skills are not up to par for the job, it is really tough to weld this thickness of cast using an arc welder. The funny part is that when I ground out the 'crack', I couldn't actually find a crack. I was wondering if it was just a thin line of egg white that imprinted on the cast iron and made it look like one...
Electrolysis tank would have preserved the skillet's collector value and been far less work or use "Evapo-rust" to remove the rust if you do not have an electrolysis tank. 50/50 mix of water and white vinegar will also remove rust but you can't leave cast iron in too long as it will eat away the cast iron. Any "collector" value was ruined by the sanding/filing, etc. Please to do NOT do this to a really valuable antique skillet! As for the "exact same eggs", I have news for you chickens do NOT lay 2 eggs at once! They may lay double-yolk eggs but NEVER 2 eggs at the "exact same time"! Anyone out there wanting to restore old cast iron please look up electrolysis tanks, lye bath and vinegar bath. Preserve the finish as much as possible for these old beauties because they are not being made any more! As for the crack, it looked to be a tight crack and if the pan is never subjected to high heat all at once it should still be usable for many more years. Always pre-heat pans at a low temperature to prevent warping. The pitting in that pan may be filled in through many seasonings and should not effect usage but it takes time and patience!!! If you ever do research and it says "throw the pan in a fire" think twice! The self-cleaning oven and "throw it in a fire" techniques can and will destroy an otherwise salvageable cast iron skillet because the heat changes the properties of the cast iron and may make it more brittle and/or warp the pan. Research what processes the collectors use before destroying a piece of history, please.
Lodge makes cast iron cookware. When you write "these beauties ... are not being made anymore", I'm wondering how they differ from Lodge's (see lodge manufacturing: www.lodgemfg.com/) offerings?
@@johnlaurencepoole6408 Lodge makes skillets now with a much rougher cooking surface so that the "non-stick pre-seasoning" will stick to it. I have a vintage Lodge Arc Logo with raised #6 on the handle that will put today's Lodge pans to shame. If you have never found a quality antique or vintage cast iron pan you will not know the difference. There are some news ones out there with very smooth cooking surfaces but the price is about the same for a good old Griswold, Favorite, old Wagner, etc.
The "2 eggs at once" comment was clearly a joke. Having two identical eggs as a control in his experiment, was the joke, because in reality no two eggs are the same. Just FYI. Also, how do you propose to repair the generous amount of warp in the pan (and I'm not talking about the pitting)? You either have to grind it down, or beat it back into shape, and both of these options would seem to run counter to your desire to keep it as intact as possible. And you can't say "Always pre-heat pans at a low temperature to prevent warping", because that damage was already done before he got this pan clearly.
@@chrishudson9525 I do not propose to repair any warping because once a pan is warped...it is warped...which really does not affect the pan for cooking unless you are really picky and/or are a collector wanting the pan that is near perfect. For the cast iron "collector" using any kind of abrasive is a no-no as it takes away from the value. Collectors look for flat pans with little to no scratches, cracks, chips, etc. If one wants a pan that is not warped check by using a straight edge both on the bottom and on the cooking surface. Pans can warp in either direction. If a pan is warped on the bottom it can also be checked by setting it on a flat surface and gently nudging the handle...if it spins it is warped and known as a "spinner". Spinners can still be used (and it does not need to be ground down flat for cooking because you are taking away the "meat" of the pan and losing its even heat distribution properties) and work quite well on gas ranges or the circle-element electric ranges. On a glass top range it will spin and can be annoying but still usable. I am just trying to pass along what I have learned from the "collector' perspective. I too began using (because of UA-cam videos) the abrasive method of cleaning but fortunately it was not on a high value pan. Some high value (very rare, very old) pans are worth hundreds to a couple thousand dollars on Ebay. Cast iron, while it can last for many life times if cared for properly, is also very delicate/brittle. Pre-heating at low temperature is to preserve the flat pan OR to prevent further warping and/or the worst case scenario...cracking. Cracked pans can still be used if the crack is tight and you use it with care and caution...handles can break off completely involving the side of the pan. If that happened with hot food or grease in it you could have a severe injury from burns. That is why you should check for cracks by holding the pan by 2 fingers at the handle and tapping it gently either with a thump of your finger or I use a spoon. If the pan rings like a bell, crisp and clear it is usually not cracked. I have a couple very old pans with tight cracks that do ring and are usable yet but I am aware of the cracks and use the pans with care and caution. Pitting can be filled in over time by seasoning. I have one very old pre-Griswold "Erie" that is both warped upward on the cooking surface and pitted. The bottom is pristine though. It is still very usable just not a collector piece. You can also find pans out there that have what looks like a corroded bottom. That is usually on a very old pan that was used over gas or coal that had high sulfur content. Still usable but not a collector piece. There you have what I have learned in my short time of cast iron collecting/using. There are some good Facebook groups that have very good information content and the people truly want to help each other on identification, value and restoration of cast iron. Castironcollector.com also has great information. Happy cast iron collecting and using...but beware, it can become addictive! Just suppose you found a very rare and valuable pan that was say a Wapak Indian Head or a Griswold Spider...would you really want to grind, file and sand down the the Spider or the Indian Head to make the pan flat? Just for kicks look up Wapak Indian Head on Ebay....very rarely will you find a Spider and if you do it will command several hundred (cheap) to a couple thousand dollars!
@@kathleenoliver5461 A pan that is warped, and therefore has less surface area touching the stove element (such as the one in the video) would naturally be less effective than one that is flat. And if you want to claim that it makes no difference, citation is needed. Not to mention the fact that it might even have a bit of a wobble, which might even be dangerous. Also, citation is needed if you want to claim that taking a bit off the bottom would reduce functionality in an appreciable way. So it isn't about being really picky, if you care more about functionality and safety, than you do about maintaining the aesthetic of an antique. You're clearly looking at the situation from a collectors perspective. I get it. Some people have different priorities, and want something to be more usable than anything else though.
damn ....soak it in vinegar a few days and stop with the grinders and sanders....but anyways a pitted skillet can be made nonstick just like a smooth one...i recently redid a skillet found in my barnyard.....and the eggs slicked right out..just like on the smoother ones ive redone..she dont look pretty but she sure can cook.
Probably a good idea with the vinegar, or muriatic acid would be okay as long as you keep an eye on it. This was an older video, so I have learned a lot since, I hope to have better cast iron videos out soon. Thanks for the comment!
Look up e-tank. Electrolysis tank. You’ll never find serious collectors and restorers of cast iron EVER take metal or sanders or electric tools of any kind to cast iron and I have seen AMAZING restorations. This would have been much better in an Stanley. The inside is pitted and it does not look brand new like it could have
Self-cleaning mode in your oven is the easiest way, into the oven before you turn on the heat so the pan heats evenly and slowly to max temp. the same goes for cooling, let it cool in the oven. You'll need to clean it afterward and then re-season because it will remove all of the old seasoning. Some people use a Lye bath as well, I don't have any personally and I would prefer not to keep that around my house.
I actually did exactly that, but I wasn't happy with the result I had porosity and the heat wouldn't stay in the pan long enough to prevent stress cracking, there isn't much left to this pan so I decided to move on. Not my best work, but a good learning experience in preparation for working with more cast iron. I used nickel 55 rods on my stick welder, they were a little difficult to get use to, so that may also be part of my problem. Thanks for the tip!
So... the crack: can that be alleviated by heating with an ox-acetylene torch perhaps to cause the iron at the crack to melt? Or is this suggestion the stuff fantasies are made of?
The crack can be fixed, normally it would be done by brazing a material like bronze into the crack while at a high temp. I've not seen any information on melting cast to itself for some reason, which may have something to do with the weld line becoming brittle due to change in carbon content. My understanding is that Bronze and nickels are flexible enough to move as the casting shrinks, so it prevents cast iron from cracking more. If you'd like to see me attempt to fix this via. brazing over the forge, I am willing to do this. It may not be a success, since I an no expert at it. Let me know, thanks.
Thank you for offering to show a video re: brazing. No need, I can envision it. I'm more thinking how to salvage the pan for cooking use. The mind set these days of disposable items is overwhelming and pursuing a fix-it approach is something to be celebrated and shared.
I agree, I am drawn to the quality of the old items, they last a lifetime or more, the things we buy these days last a few years if that. I purchased an old vice recently made in Erie PA, and it will be a great restoration project to show the process of welding and/or brazing cast iron. It will be a challenging project, but rewarding because it is a highly functional piece. As much as I'd like to make this skillet fully usable, it isn't really a great investment of time and money, but I may change my mind if I get good enough at it. I suppose just don't braze using a leaded-bronze and it should be food-safe enough.
That crack is tight and should not be welded. I have a very old National with a far worse crack and by pre-heating at a low temperature I still use it. The only weld I ever had done was just yesterday and it was on a broken handle. Many times if the pan is cracked beyond repair it can still be used to bake in so don't make a bigger mistake by welding because it can render the pan totally unusable.
Kathleen -- how does welding make the pan totally unusable? Is it because the high heat changes the nature of the metal? Or the potential poisons in the welding material?@@kathleenoliver5461
Years of practice and lots of fails, none on this take luckily. I'm working towards a two pan two handed synchronized egg flip (one pan per hand). Something tells me that I might go through a lot of eggs until I get it right. Seems like a cool challenge to me, your thoughts?
Well I have a confession to make, it is the subject of an upcoming video, and it has changed a tiny bit since the end of this video. Did you want it for display, or to use? I'm still in the process of making the video, so it does matter a little.
@@canadasbubbleologyshow1438 hmmm... let me see what I can do. I'll have to get back to you since I can't promise how it's going to turn out (I don't want to share too much right now, but I have high hopes for a good result).
I do, but I made an attempt at welding it with nickel 55 welding rod and now I'm not too happy with the result. I may try to re-weld the crack when I have some time to practice, but welding cast iron seems to cause major warping even after pre-heating it. I have this on video, but I was not happy with it, so I've not released the video. This video was my first of many on the subject, so it's not one of my best, I'm much happier with the newer ones.
It is, though in my defense I received it along with a bucket of rusty tools. One of those tools was a Stanley Handyman plane, which I fully restored in a video also. I recently received a set of Stanley Sweetheart chisels, and now there is no going back, they are amazing. Now that you mention it, I could have used some old HSS planer blades, they would have worked better. Thanks for the comment, do you think my use of the chisel should be punishable?
@@NeedItMakeIt I'm no cast iron snob so I'm not criticizing you at all. Just simply looking for help. I have pan that is in rough shape. The chisel seemed to work great. I'll have to give it a try.
No worries my friend. I appreciate that you're willing to put the work into bring something back to life, it is rewarding to bring something back that will last you a lifetime. Good luck with the project, link some photos here when you finish it up. Be careful, the restoration bug might get you :)
@@NeedItMakeIt just wanted to give you an update... the chisel was a game changer! Helped get the majority of that baked on crud off. Definitely saved me hour of work scrubbing.
Nice! I wonder if that buildup wasn't as much rust as old oils/fats from years of use. I have an older small cast iron pan, it is forms a ring of carbonization around the bottom where the oil drips down, it's pretty neat.
Thanks, I have to admit, I thought I could do better, but the pitting was so bad on the inside that I didn't have much to work with. Still, it did work fairly well, and it can always be a decorative item. I appreciate the comment.
I have used this approach on some of my old hand saws, but they had only a light coat of rust, do you think it would have worked well on something this bad?
Sounds like a plan, I have an old vise made in PA in desperate need for repair, it might be just the right tool to test this out on. Thanks for the help have a great Friday.
Not my best video for sure, check out my newer ones. Just to clarify, this pan was going to be thrown out and was given to me as it had no value. The pitting is extremely deep and the bottom is too thin and warped to use. If you have a chance, check out the videos on smoothing a cast iron pan, I think you'll find that these are much better. Thanks for the comment.
He took something that was scrap metal and made it "useable" (I use that word loosely). You can't fault the guy no matter the outcome because it was 100% pure junk prior. There was no "saving" that pan.
This is stupid advice. Aside from the fact that you think "wire" is different from "brass", it doesn't matter once you've gotten to that point. Remove the layer (of rust or bad seasoning), wash really good, then re-season.
Well just finished the video...seriously, if you want to complain, complain about the shit job done on 1) restoring the skillet and 2) the absolute horrible job seasoning it...
This was one of my first vids, I've gone far beyond on the next batch, and I still plan on doing more, I have one we found abandoned in the woods. It is super rusty and filled with all kinds of debris. Thanks for taking the time!
A few notes: I am not that young, but thank you. I suggest not to begin a comment with NEVER, that's not a great way to convince someone that they are doing something wrong. Also from the same train of thought, writing in ALL CAPS is a no-no, are you truly yelling when you are thinking of what to write? Next, cast iron porosity appears as large voids in castings, very visible to the human eye, you may be referring to irregularities in the surface due to the composition of the cast iron itself. Steel and CI are similar, the main difference being the amount of Carbon content, which in turn allows for the creation of graphite within the CI. This is why is is such a good material for bearing surfaces for machinery, long-wearing relatively low friction. Aluminum is a material which readily absorbs hydrogen from the air when it is molten, it can have porosity, however they are visible again by the human eye. If you have any scientific data to backup your comment, please share, otherwise it is fairly well known that this is not true. Another point as well for any CI lovers, Vintage pans were sold smooth, they were machined and sanded/ground, if anyone is curious they only need to have a look at the witness marks on their own vintage pans. HAPPY HOLIDAYS!
I don't find vinegar works well, I've removed light rust, maybe the more industrial version works better. I've since discovered Evaporust, I won't be removing rust this way in future for sure. Thanks for the comment.
If anybody is listening do not I repeat do not follow this guy's guidelines you're going to ruin your pan never use power tools or any metal objects to scrape the cast iron the proper way is to soak in a lye Bath to remove the black crud and then soak for 1 hour and 50/50 vinegar and water
There are better methods, no question. There are also better methods to what you suggest. This is what I had on-hand and these are tools that many people have in their home shops. Using a grinding wheel or sanding your pan will not ruin it, what it does do is affect the collectors value, if you have something valuable... The true value of CI is in the enjoyment of using it over many many years, they also save you money by removing the need to re-purchase new non-stick pans year after year. Vintage pans were sanded from the factory to remove the rough surface, this was standard process. Each of my vintage Wagner pans show witness marks from this process. My suggestion is to do what you want based on what it is you are trying to accomplish and how much you want to spend.
Hi Chef, I've attempted a repair to this pan by welding with a nickel electrode, the problem is that it was much more difficult than I expected and I'm not satisfied with it. I have a video idea coming up that I want to try using what is left of the pan.
Ha, thank you for the idea. It would take care of the bowls that endlessly move around. I have 2 other ideas for this pan, one is already in the works, the other will come right after. I just need some shop time to get it done.
Pass. you took a piece of history and even art and made it functional again. ya cracks are a downer but don't always ruin a skillet. Good job give it away or even sell it. its Wagner Even with a crack and the pitting on the cook surface.... A year of use and it will be perfect. great video
I didn't update the notes, the "crack" was a fine string of egg whites. I only found out after I ground it out to try welding with nickel55....unsuccessfully.
@@NeedItMakeIt check out this video, this guy has really helped me out with my restoration projects I have a decent collection now. Doesn’t take a lot of work to clean one up with the right technique and to have it hold it’s value. Please don’t use wire wheels and sanders and such on a pan ua-cam.com/video/W-IWYXM4p_Q/v-deo.html
@@zzanzak This was my first cast iron video, it leaves much to be desired. I am a fan of the CI pan, and I do own several vintage pans in good shape and I have left them unchanged with the exception of coats of seasoning.
I am sensing that you have had some bad experiences in your past.... care to share? The best feature of cast iron is that you keep it for a lifetime if you treat it right. I was sick of replacing the non-stick pans, so I moved on.
There are other ways to do this no question, this was my first CI video. As far as ruining it, considering it was going to the trash and was given to me for free, I'm not sure ruining is the correct description.
JC Penny has a set of 3 Cast Iron Skillets for 17 dollars right now. That is how I restore my Cast Iron... just spend 20 bucks for a new one. Don't need to spend all day restoring. Who has all those tools and time? I'd rather crack open a beer and watch some TV after buying a new Cast Iron Pan. You can even just buy it on the internet these days never having to leave the house.
They are pretty cheap new on sale, I purchased a really nice kitchen aid on sale at Canadian tire about 5 years ago, and it is my go-to pan. The problem is that I have an addiction to restoring things that look like junk to most people. The logo on the bottom caught my eye, turns out that there is little value in the ones made later on like this one. I will say that some of my new and more expensive pans have major flaws, they are convex and do not cook evenly. I believe the manufacturers have done this on purpose since they are identical for each pan I own of the Lagostina. When cooking bacon for example, the pieces near the center do not see much fat and burn very quickly. I expect they have done this to make sure the pans always sit without rocking around on the stove top. Thanks for the comment, I have better videos coming out which include a narrative so they'll be more helpful and describe why I do what I do.
@@NeedItMakeIt No doubt the pans of new are not the pans of old. I get it that this is your "fun" or "hobby." Nothing wrong with that... I just noticed that is an awful lot of work when I can just throw some money at it. I bought some at Walmart on Sale that work Great! Pioneer Lady Bull S--T but for 20 bucks they are disposable. I haven't had any problems with warping. I had a Lodge Dutch Oven that I left closed and oiled for months. Big Mistake... Sticky and hasn't been right ever since... 18 dollars on sale. I can take that loss if I get too lazy to re season. I respect what you are doing though!!
No worries, it was not one of the projects I am most proud of. The reason I switched to cast iron was because I was fed up with replacing 'good quality' non-stick pans every few years; the idea was for these to act as a long-term investment. Pans get lots of use in most homes so they do tend to wear out quickly and they go through many cycles of hot/cold with warping issues etc, so the cast for me is the solution... as long as they are flat that is.
Interesting technique, I'm not so sure that would work so well on something this bad, and it would not do anything to flatten the pan. Worth a look for future projects though, so thanks for the tip. The projects I work on are done more for learning and the challenge.
Absolutely, not really the best outcome, I have another restoration video coming out soon which is hopefully more impressive, and no grinding involved.
You have given me some hope. I just found a set of 4 of these in my shed. May I ask how long you left them in the bbq each time. Thank you very much for this video
Lucky! I leave them in the BBQ at 450f using canola oil for an hour, then let them cool to 200 and repeat. I did this video a while back, I have a lot more tips to get great looking and performing pans, so let me know if you need any help. As a reference, I use the Stargazer Seasoning method, super easy and works very well for me. Which brand did you find by the way?
Good luck!
@@NeedItMakeIt I didnt see a name on them, they are very rusty. I really appreciate you answering and taken the time to do these videos. Kind regards from Ireland.
@@jjmunna No problem, if I may pass a few helpful methods of cleaning cast iron to save you some time (unlike my method) they would be to use the self-clean cycle in your oven, letting them heat up with the cycle and cool with it also, or using vinegar in a large container with a lid and just let them sit for a few days in a warm place. I wish I knew these methods at the time I did this pan, but these came from viewers and they both seem to work well. Good luck, maybe you have a few treasures on your hands, you never know!
@@NeedItMakeIt thank you so much I am looking forward to cooking some bread on one of them. 🌺🌺🌺🌺
Do not do what this guy did he doesn't know what he's doing you never use power tools and he cast iron pan or any sandpaper or metal objects you will ruin your paint forever
To anyone reading this aside from the video creator, do not do what he did in the video. The best way to strip rust is either with a vinegar back or electrolysis. Wire wheeling or sanding or anything else both damages your piece as well as ruins any bit of collectibility. You’re also working way harder than you need too.
Thanks for the comment. I don't disagree with your comment, there are better ways, this was my first video about cast iron pans and have since learned of better cleaner methods as you suggest.
This particular pan was set to go in the trash, I chose to take it for free and see what I could do with it.
This is the fastest way to ruin a vintage Griswold or BSR piece. If you do this do it on a lower quality pan as not to hurt the value of a higher quality piece
Collector's value aside (Couldn't care less about monetary value, I just want to make a pan useful again), the thing I think electrolysis won't fix, is if the surface is very uneven, with pitting and small holes. Grinding is the only way to get rid of those.
What about the extensive putting in this pan? Wouldn’t the sanding help?
I have an old Wagner Ware pan. Not as bad as that. It looks like it had sat in something that rusted for a long time. This gives me hope it can be cleaned and made usable. Thank you
Ditch the grinder, do a vinegar bath and get in there with a scour pad and some rock salt. That saves the all the nice detail on the bottom.
And if you use it to caramelise an onion after seasoning, it'll get rid of that metalic taste.
So true baking soda and vinegar removes a lot of the rust and removes any old seasoning. I find so many of these I would not work on one with that amount of piting inside
@@StephRenee812 in a fashion, yes, but do you want your oven full of rust?
Oh my goodness! Power tools and vintage skillets do not go together. But each to his own...
I understand, this was a throw away since it was in terrible shape, if it was something that had value I'd have used evapo rust or similar.
@@NeedItMakeIt I understand but you could have used lye tank to remove old seasoning and 50/50 white distilled vinegar and water for rust. Would have had some pitting when rust was eat away but with seasoning still a useable pan with no power tools.
@@JH-hw4yh Lye really? You should not put anything in it that would not put in your mouth
Oh, they make good pistol targets in that shape. Try starting without the need for heavy grinding, if you have to grind you are changing the cooking properties of the piece, creating hot spots and uneven cooking.. Thickness matters, and uniform thickness even more so.
Yeah, I'd agree with that. Recently I've tried a carbon steel... otherwise known as a steel pan, it was warped when I received it, I was able to remove the warp with some carefully placed sledge hammer blows and some hardwood to distribute the blows just enough. It is fairly thin in comparison, and it does heat quite quickly. Nice for a quick egg over easy. On the downside, it doesn't heat as evenly as you mentioned.
Never grind, wire wheel or otherwise modify the material. Use lye, electrolysis or yellow cap Easy Off to remove organics and 50/50 vinegar/water to remove rust. Scrub with Dawn dish soap and a green scrubby and season. The method used destroyed the value of the pan and actually took way more work than traditional cleaning.
I cannot agree in this case, this skillet was given to me by the antique shop owner as it had no value and he planned on scrapping it, this is why I had no issues with taking an aggressive approach. On the subject of wire wheel and grinding, I agree that there are better ways; those ways would not address the deep pitting on the inside, nor the terribly warped bottom.
The value in having a cast iron skillet is in the use of it. Since it should last a lifetime, and only gets better with age whereas others only deteriorate, you don't need to replace them every few years, they save you money, and that's much more important than concerning yourself with how much you can sell it for.
This cast iron skillet was my first, so it is far from perfect, my newer videos do a much better job of giving context and reasons behind the decisions, so I thank you for your comment.
Take care.
He’s right except don’t use oven cleaner either Never use anything on your cast-iron that you wouldn’t ingest
Am I the only one that saw the incredible pitting? People keep commenting on ruining its value using a grinder. What value? I don't care what brand that was, it was trash. At least the guy made the pan useful again.
“That’s not my pan. Mines was black, covered in soot. I could see meself in this in if I wanted to...those days are long past though..”
- Old lady of White Orchard, Witcher 3
Isn’t that a shame that it was ruined. I would go to a different seasoning that is a bit higher heat range. I watched the one you did on mirror finish. I’m 65 years old and am doing a lodge corn bread pan. I used a dremel and sanding stones on low speed. I’m finishing up with sand paper. Those dividers are a pain. I really love buzzy wax. The temp is higher and leaves a great finish. The one thing I hate to see is cast iron that’s been ruined. Best of luck.
I have been reading quite a bit about seasoning oils, what makes a higher smoke point oil better than a lower one? I've recently had very good success with canola oil and it's cheap, people seem to think that flax oil and grape seed oil are the best. Flax has a low smoke point, and grape seed is high. I'm not so sure it matters after the polymerization process occurs, but I need to learn more.
I will check out the wax you mention, I've never seen anyone use wax to season a pan.
I am Working on restoring a #6 Griswold and a #3 Wagner Both have a good amount of pitting damage. I am thinking to try to address this pitting issue by making a thin slurry of Oil and powdered Activated Charcoal. since true seasoning is built up over time cooking in the pan, where Oil is combining with carbon from the food That is cooked in it , creating a strong polymerized coating. My thinking is that the powdered Charcoal in the slurry would act like a filler, (Cast iron Bondo) . The process would be 1) heat pan to 200 - 250 degrees. 2) Coat pan in Charcoal slurry. 3) wipe off excess. 4) Heat to 475 degrees for one hour. 5) Repeat process after it cools. What do you think. Do you think it will work or just create a mess?
I love cast Iron to cook in. If you season it right, the stuff lasts forever, also a gas stove is a real plus.
The gas heats up much quicker right? I've never had or tried a gas stove, can you crack a cast iron pan if you don't pay attention to the temperature?
@@NeedItMakeIt Yes, I dont use the fire on high heat, I cook on 2 or 3, Iv never cracked a pan. Gas is much more precise in terms of setting your temp..
Wow!! You did a great, amazing job, bringing this pan back from junk!!! As far as a crack, there are iron shops, that can repair that, as well as warping without material being removed. Ide love to know the back story of how this pan was found it how it got in that condition that you got it, and if you are still giving it away, ide love to have and use it!!
I would just buy a new one. I don't have tools to do all of that😁😁😁😁😁but I understand the challenge in restoring the pan especially one that's been in the family for years.
Just got a Griswold and its in about the same shape as your's no cracks in it tho.. paid 10 dollars for it going to try vinegar and maybe have to get a steel brush and hand scrub it
This saved me spending $50: on a new side sear burner grill on my Napoleon grill. Messy and hard work with a Dremel grinder but it’s seasoning now...
Do yourself a favor and get a bucket of white vinegar. Saved alot of elbow grease. The pan in the video still has to much rust on the surface. Vinegar should help that.
I was not having great success at the time with vinegar, I think because my shop was so cold. I wonder if hot vinegar would work fast? I think the vinegar also leaves a darker etched finish for better seasoning and it looks better also.
What was UR time period in the BBQ for the seasoning? Did u let the pan cool before the next seasoning? Thanks
Usually recommended to do 1 hour per coat, this completely solidifies each layer into that hard carbonized/polymer layer. That's the same reason they recommend only doing very thin coats. Cooling between is recommended, I've done it both ways and if you are using the BBQ you can recoat right on there when it is hot it will make a huge amount of smoke that isn't great inside the house. If you want to do this inside for just the pan bottoms, I season on the stove top and cover with a tight fitting lid for that pan size, it keeps the smoke in for the most part.
Thanks
So, my pan is a bit pitted, too. I have been concerned that this will affect the use of it. Is that not true?
I suppose it depends on how bad it is, in most cases it will perform just fine. I personally prefer my pans to be fairly smooth on the inside so I sand and re-season them, in most cases it isn’t necessary unless you start with a new pan which was poorly cast.
You should try electrolysis or soaking it in water and sodium bicarbonate next time you remove rust
Have you tried Evaporust? It isn't cheap but it is reusable and works very well. I'd love a tank full of it and just "Set it....annnndd forget it"
I have tried electrolysis on my first rail track anvil, but the battery charger I was using was too under-powered and overheated, I'd need a professional charger I think, or maybe just a car battery.
Great video, just what I needed. I found one in about the same shape in our outhouse left by some previous owner. Now I know how to save it. Thank you!
Hmmm … not sure I’d want to use ANYTHING leftover from an outhouse! 💩
@@mlferg Possibly a bad unused skillet that was simply heated red hot and carried to the outhouse to add some warmth in the winter season. But that is why there are chamber pots to do your business inside and then dispose of it. But your point is valid, not actually knowing.
"You'll need a little fat"
Drops a pound of butter in the pan. *Hilarious!!*
I do love butter. Have you ever tried clarified butter to cook with?
@@NeedItMakeIt yes I have/do, it raises the smoke point so higher temperatures are ok. Also its *delicious* when you dip lobster or artichoke in it.
I'm the same way; but with Black (unspiced if you please) Rum (Bacardi Batmobile is my fave).
Cheers from the Oil Patch in Central WY
@@adiahaalexander9359
Only time I can do lobster (1 time in the last several YEARS) is when Albertson's has the smaller 'models' frozen, whole, on sale at $7 a copy........too little meat for affordabiity; gotta make the food stamps last.
Cheers from the Oil Patch in Central WY
Just wondering - why did you stop sanding the interior of the pan's surface with the remaining pits still there? Were the pits too deep to continue (and then you would just build the seasoning from there)?
Wagners are some of the Holy Grail cast iron pans out there. Congrats on finding that. Great video - thanks!
You got it, the pits were far too deep and I didn't want to have to remove too much material to end up with the thinnest CI pan out there. I have another pan that we found in the woods that I've been meaning to do a restoration on, maybe that will make it into a video soon. Thanks!
Wonderful work. You have inspired me to go work on my collection tomorrow, especially my cast iron "cauldron".
I love your videos but I have to turn the sound off for much of it because the sped up sanding and grinding noises make me feel like I am at the dentist.
Thanks, I like going to the dentist.
It has taken me a long time to get the hang of video editing, now I change the volume on the grinding etc to me much lower... for your viewing pleasure. Please check out some of my newer ones and let me know what you think. I also have plans for some more cast iron related videos, some original ideas that I think are interesting and helpful.
I have a few that are in really rough shape but I don't have any of those tools. Is there a way to clean them without those tools? Should I hire someone to do it?
Seen just now. I probably would have gone for electrolisis for rust removal. Not sure the belly wasn't intended originally ( doesn't seem that cast Iron can moove so muche material to make a belly in time) It would have been nice try to mantain markings or remake faded ones (maybe making some masking and electroerosion if you fell lot so confortable engraving by hands). Nice worrk though.
Total pass given the non-stick surface after the restoration. You couldn't see the defect until the end AND that bottom surface worked well.
Thanks for this. I had started to make a video of the repair of the crack using nickel 55 welding rod, but my welding skills are not up to par for the job, it is really tough to weld this thickness of cast using an arc welder. The funny part is that when I ground out the 'crack', I couldn't actually find a crack. I was wondering if it was just a thin line of egg white that imprinted on the cast iron and made it look like one...
@@NeedItMakeIt Sounds like you have a good pan again. lol
Electrolysis tank would have preserved the skillet's collector value and been far less work or use "Evapo-rust" to remove the rust if you do not have an electrolysis tank. 50/50 mix of water and white vinegar will also remove rust but you can't leave cast iron in too long as it will eat away the cast iron. Any "collector" value was ruined by the sanding/filing, etc. Please to do NOT do this to a really valuable antique skillet! As for the "exact same eggs", I have news for you chickens do NOT lay 2 eggs at once! They may lay double-yolk eggs but NEVER 2 eggs at the "exact same time"! Anyone out there wanting to restore old cast iron please look up electrolysis tanks, lye bath and vinegar bath. Preserve the finish as much as possible for these old beauties because they are not being made any more! As for the crack, it looked to be a tight crack and if the pan is never subjected to high heat all at once it should still be usable for many more years. Always pre-heat pans at a low temperature to prevent warping. The pitting in that pan may be filled in through many seasonings and should not effect usage but it takes time and patience!!! If you ever do research and it says "throw the pan in a fire" think twice! The self-cleaning oven and "throw it in a fire" techniques can and will destroy an otherwise salvageable cast iron skillet because the heat changes the properties of the cast iron and may make it more brittle and/or warp the pan. Research what processes the collectors use before destroying a piece of history, please.
Lodge makes cast iron cookware. When you write "these beauties ... are not being made anymore", I'm wondering how they differ from Lodge's (see lodge manufacturing: www.lodgemfg.com/) offerings?
@@johnlaurencepoole6408 Lodge makes skillets now with a much rougher cooking surface so that the "non-stick pre-seasoning" will stick to it. I have a vintage Lodge Arc Logo with raised #6 on the handle that will put today's Lodge pans to shame. If you have never found a quality antique or vintage cast iron pan you will not know the difference. There are some news ones out there with very smooth cooking surfaces but the price is about the same for a good old Griswold, Favorite, old Wagner, etc.
The "2 eggs at once" comment was clearly a joke. Having two identical eggs as a control in his experiment, was the joke, because in reality no two eggs are the same. Just FYI. Also, how do you propose to repair the generous amount of warp in the pan (and I'm not talking about the pitting)? You either have to grind it down, or beat it back into shape, and both of these options would seem to run counter to your desire to keep it as intact as possible. And you can't say "Always pre-heat pans at a low temperature to prevent warping", because that damage was already done before he got this pan clearly.
@@chrishudson9525 I do not propose to repair any warping because once a pan is warped...it is warped...which really does not affect the pan for cooking unless you are really picky and/or are a collector wanting the pan that is near perfect. For the cast iron "collector" using any kind of abrasive is a no-no as it takes away from the value. Collectors look for flat pans with little to no scratches, cracks, chips, etc. If one wants a pan that is not warped check by using a straight edge both on the bottom and on the cooking surface. Pans can warp in either direction. If a pan is warped on the bottom it can also be checked by setting it on a flat surface and gently nudging the handle...if it spins it is warped and known as a "spinner". Spinners can still be used (and it does not need to be ground down flat for cooking because you are taking away the "meat" of the pan and losing its even heat distribution properties) and work quite well on gas ranges or the circle-element electric ranges. On a glass top range it will spin and can be annoying but still usable. I am just trying to pass along what I have learned from the "collector' perspective. I too began using (because of UA-cam videos) the abrasive method of cleaning but fortunately it was not on a high value pan. Some high value (very rare, very old) pans are worth hundreds to a couple thousand dollars on Ebay. Cast iron, while it can last for many life times if cared for properly, is also very delicate/brittle. Pre-heating at low temperature is to preserve the flat pan OR to prevent further warping and/or the worst case scenario...cracking. Cracked pans can still be used if the crack is tight and you use it with care and caution...handles can break off completely involving the side of the pan. If that happened with hot food or grease in it you could have a severe injury from burns. That is why you should check for cracks by holding the pan by 2 fingers at the handle and tapping it gently either with a thump of your finger or I use a spoon. If the pan rings like a bell, crisp and clear it is usually not cracked. I have a couple very old pans with tight cracks that do ring and are usable yet but I am aware of the cracks and use the pans with care and caution. Pitting can be filled in over time by seasoning. I have one very old pre-Griswold "Erie" that is both warped upward on the cooking surface and pitted. The bottom is pristine though. It is still very usable just not a collector piece. You can also find pans out there that have what looks like a corroded bottom. That is usually on a very old pan that was used over gas or coal that had high sulfur content. Still usable but not a collector piece. There you have what I have learned in my short time of cast iron collecting/using. There are some good Facebook groups that have very good information content and the people truly want to help each other on identification, value and restoration of cast iron. Castironcollector.com also has great information. Happy cast iron collecting and using...but beware, it can become addictive!
Just suppose you found a very rare and valuable pan that was say a Wapak Indian Head or a Griswold Spider...would you really want to grind, file and sand down the the Spider or the Indian Head to make the pan flat? Just for kicks look up Wapak Indian Head on Ebay....very rarely will you find a Spider and if you do it will command several hundred (cheap) to a couple thousand dollars!
@@kathleenoliver5461 A pan that is warped, and therefore has less surface area touching the stove element (such as the one in the video) would naturally be less effective than one that is flat. And if you want to claim that it makes no difference, citation is needed. Not to mention the fact that it might even have a bit of a wobble, which might even be dangerous. Also, citation is needed if you want to claim that taking a bit off the bottom would reduce functionality in an appreciable way. So it isn't about being really picky, if you care more about functionality and safety, than you do about maintaining the aesthetic of an antique.
You're clearly looking at the situation from a collectors perspective. I get it. Some people have different priorities, and want something to be more usable than anything else though.
Did you check for a crack before going to the bother of cleaning and refurbishing A lot of work was put into it
damn ....soak it in vinegar a few days and stop with the grinders and sanders....but anyways a pitted skillet can be made nonstick just like a smooth one...i recently redid a skillet found in my barnyard.....and the eggs slicked right out..just like on the smoother ones ive redone..she dont look pretty but she sure can cook.
Probably a good idea with the vinegar, or muriatic acid would be okay as long as you keep an eye on it. This was an older video, so I have learned a lot since, I hope to have better cast iron videos out soon.
Thanks for the comment!
Look up e-tank. Electrolysis tank. You’ll never find serious collectors and restorers of cast iron EVER take metal or sanders or electric tools of any kind to cast iron and I have seen AMAZING restorations. This would have been much better in an Stanley. The inside is pitted and it does not look brand new like it could have
Meant to say this would have looked much better in an etank
You’re right though stick it in a vinegar bath for a few days and it would look much better as well
So do you soak it in just vinegar or do you delude it
Hey I enjoy your channel!! Can you use a toaster oven (Nuwave or Emerald) to season cast iron?
My son bought me a cast iron pan and it is very crusty on the outside. How do I clean it up.
Self-cleaning mode in your oven is the easiest way, into the oven before you turn on the heat so the pan heats evenly and slowly to max temp. the same goes for cooling, let it cool in the oven. You'll need to clean it afterward and then re-season because it will remove all of the old seasoning. Some people use a Lye bath as well, I don't have any personally and I would prefer not to keep that around my house.
@@NeedItMakeIt thank you
Hi you can grind the fracture an use cast iron welding rods to fix it regrind flat then season again
I actually did exactly that, but I wasn't happy with the result I had porosity and the heat wouldn't stay in the pan long enough to prevent stress cracking, there isn't much left to this pan so I decided to move on. Not my best work, but a good learning experience in preparation for working with more cast iron. I used nickel 55 rods on my stick welder, they were a little difficult to get use to, so that may also be part of my problem.
Thanks for the tip!
Before I use it as wall art, I would make a spatula out of it.
How, pray tell, did you make sure those were two eggs from the exact same chicken, laid at the Exact same time?
I guess it is just one of those times you just had to be there to see it yourself...
So... the crack: can that be alleviated by heating with an ox-acetylene torch perhaps to cause the iron at the crack to melt? Or is this suggestion the stuff fantasies are made of?
The crack can be fixed, normally it would be done by brazing a material like bronze into the crack while at a high temp. I've not seen any information on melting cast to itself for some reason, which may have something to do with the weld line becoming brittle due to change in carbon content. My understanding is that Bronze and nickels are flexible enough to move as the casting shrinks, so it prevents cast iron from cracking more. If you'd like to see me attempt to fix this via. brazing over the forge, I am willing to do this. It may not be a success, since I an no expert at it.
Let me know, thanks.
Thank you for offering to show a video re: brazing. No need, I can envision it. I'm more thinking how to salvage the pan for cooking use. The mind set these days of disposable items is overwhelming and pursuing a fix-it approach is something to be celebrated and shared.
I agree, I am drawn to the quality of the old items, they last a lifetime or more, the things we buy these days last a few years if that. I purchased an old vice recently made in Erie PA, and it will be a great restoration project to show the process of welding and/or brazing cast iron. It will be a challenging project, but rewarding because it is a highly functional piece. As much as I'd like to make this skillet fully usable, it isn't really a great investment of time and money, but I may change my mind if I get good enough at it. I suppose just don't braze using a leaded-bronze and it should be food-safe enough.
That crack is tight and should not be welded. I have a very old National with a far worse crack and by pre-heating at a low temperature I still use it. The only weld I ever had done was just yesterday and it was on a broken handle. Many times if the pan is cracked beyond repair it can still be used to bake in so don't make a bigger mistake by welding because it can render the pan totally unusable.
Kathleen -- how does welding make the pan totally unusable? Is it because the high heat changes the nature of the metal? Or the potential poisons in the welding material?@@kathleenoliver5461
Flippin' those eggs like a pro😄👍
Years of practice and lots of fails, none on this take luckily.
I'm working towards a two pan two handed synchronized egg flip (one pan per hand). Something tells me that I might go through a lot of eggs until I get it right.
Seems like a cool challenge to me, your thoughts?
@@NeedItMakeIt Yeah, and once you master that maybe you can show us how to swap it back and forth between pans while the egg is in mid air.😄
@@robbyritter4245 Maybe I should wear my steel toes then.... sounds like an interesting challenge, when I get some time I think I'll give this a try.
in my eyes sir it WAS a pass...I would love to have this if its still available...my Doc actually cast was good for you...any help here...thanks,,,
Well I have a confession to make, it is the subject of an upcoming video, and it has changed a tiny bit since the end of this video. Did you want it for display, or to use? I'm still in the process of making the video, so it does matter a little.
@@NeedItMakeIt to use....
@@canadasbubbleologyshow1438 hmmm... let me see what I can do. I'll have to get back to you since I can't promise how it's going to turn out (I don't want to share too much right now, but I have high hopes for a good result).
@@NeedItMakeIt appreciate...thanks
@@NeedItMakeIt you never got back to me and that was 6 months ago....why not
That was amazing!!! Do you still have that pan???
I do, but I made an attempt at welding it with nickel 55 welding rod and now I'm not too happy with the result. I may try to re-weld the crack when I have some time to practice, but welding cast iron seems to cause major warping even after pre-heating it. I have this on video, but I was not happy with it, so I've not released the video. This video was my first of many on the subject, so it's not one of my best, I'm much happier with the newer ones.
Thanks for sharing. Did you use just a wood working chisel to get the crud off?
It is, though in my defense I received it along with a bucket of rusty tools. One of those tools was a Stanley Handyman plane, which I fully restored in a video also. I recently received a set of Stanley Sweetheart chisels, and now there is no going back, they are amazing.
Now that you mention it, I could have used some old HSS planer blades, they would have worked better.
Thanks for the comment, do you think my use of the chisel should be punishable?
@@NeedItMakeIt I'm no cast iron snob so I'm not criticizing you at all. Just simply looking for help. I have pan that is in rough shape. The chisel seemed to work great. I'll have to give it a try.
No worries my friend. I appreciate that you're willing to put the work into bring something back to life, it is rewarding to bring something back that will last you a lifetime. Good luck with the project, link some photos here when you finish it up. Be careful, the restoration bug might get you :)
@@NeedItMakeIt just wanted to give you an update... the chisel was a game changer! Helped get the majority of that baked on crud off. Definitely saved me hour of work scrubbing.
Nice! I wonder if that buildup wasn't as much rust as old oils/fats from years of use. I have an older small cast iron pan, it is forms a ring of carbonization around the bottom where the oil drips down, it's pretty neat.
Drill a hole through the crack and tig weld using stainless steel
Evap-o-rust is your friend.
Amazing work and very well done. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks, I have to admit, I thought I could do better, but the pitting was so bad on the inside that I didn't have much to work with. Still, it did work fairly well, and it can always be a decorative item.
I appreciate the comment.
Pour vinegar on while using a grinder?
I have used this approach on some of my old hand saws, but they had only a light coat of rust, do you think it would have worked well on something this bad?
Sounds like a plan, I have an old vise made in PA in desperate need for repair, it might be just the right tool to test this out on. Thanks for the help have a great Friday.
Both eggs are from the same chicken at the same time? What chicken lays two eggs at the same time lol
It's a magic chicken, it also lays golden eggs.
See if you can somehow acquire a sense of humor; he was clearly jesting about the eggs.
Exact same chicken at the same exact time. Using this
I'll go ask my hens why they won't do this for me, lol.
Great video thanks for sharing
'How to damage an American Cast Iron Pan'... Nothing else here.
Not my best video for sure, check out my newer ones. Just to clarify, this pan was going to be thrown out and was given to me as it had no value. The pitting is extremely deep and the bottom is too thin and warped to use.
If you have a chance, check out the videos on smoothing a cast iron pan, I think you'll find that these are much better.
Thanks for the comment.
He took something that was scrap metal and made it "useable" (I use that word loosely). You can't fault the guy no matter the outcome because it was 100% pure junk prior. There was no "saving" that pan.
Wow big difference
Never clean cast iron with wire brush, use brass brush. It will not hurt the good coating. I've cleaned cast iron 40 years.
Do you mean a seasoned cast iron skillet?
@@NeedItMakeIt yes
This is stupid advice. Aside from the fact that you think "wire" is different from "brass", it doesn't matter once you've gotten to that point. Remove the layer (of rust or bad seasoning), wash really good, then re-season.
Well just finished the video...seriously, if you want to complain, complain about the shit job done on 1) restoring the skillet and 2) the absolute horrible job seasoning it...
I salute your verve and industry, but it's like splitting firewood with a jack knife, you can do it, but why? Ther are still tones of good ones around
This was one of my first vids, I've gone far beyond on the next batch, and I still plan on doing more, I have one we found abandoned in the woods. It is super rusty and filled with all kinds of debris. Thanks for taking the time!
@@NeedItMakeIt Glad to hear you have progressed. BTW; I have four or five in nearly as bad a shape, I just let those be pistol targets!
How many machines I have to buy .? 😠
How do you get a chicken to lay two eggs at the same time? ha
Siamese Chickens
YOUNG MAN,
NEVER DO WHAT U ARE DOING , WILL GET INTO THE POTR OF THE CAST IRON
A few notes:
I am not that young, but thank you.
I suggest not to begin a comment with NEVER, that's not a great way to convince someone that they are doing something wrong. Also from the same train of thought, writing in ALL CAPS is a no-no, are you truly yelling when you are thinking of what to write?
Next, cast iron porosity appears as large voids in castings, very visible to the human eye, you may be referring to irregularities in the surface due to the composition of the cast iron itself. Steel and CI are similar, the main difference being the amount of Carbon content, which in turn allows for the creation of graphite within the CI. This is why is is such a good material for bearing surfaces for machinery, long-wearing relatively low friction. Aluminum is a material which readily absorbs hydrogen from the air when it is molten, it can have porosity, however they are visible again by the human eye.
If you have any scientific data to backup your comment, please share, otherwise it is fairly well known that this is not true. Another point as well for any CI lovers, Vintage pans were sold smooth, they were machined and sanded/ground, if anyone is curious they only need to have a look at the witness marks on their own vintage pans.
HAPPY HOLIDAYS!
Could of just soak it in vinegar for a few days lol
I don't find vinegar works well, I've removed light rust, maybe the more industrial version works better. I've since discovered Evaporust, I won't be removing rust this way in future for sure.
Thanks for the comment.
Why does the egg look rusty? The other doesn't.
By hand (brings out angle grinder to remove rust) 💀
A wood chisel ? wow
Mastercraft 'chisels' are not for woodworking. A piece of steel with a handle is their equal.
Can still bake bread in that pan.
Would sand blasting it have given you an even better result?
If anybody is listening do not I repeat do not follow this guy's guidelines you're going to ruin your pan never use power tools or any metal objects to scrape the cast iron the proper way is to soak in a lye Bath to remove the black crud and then soak for 1 hour and 50/50 vinegar and water
There are better methods, no question. There are also better methods to what you suggest. This is what I had on-hand and these are tools that many people have in their home shops. Using a grinding wheel or sanding your pan will not ruin it, what it does do is affect the collectors value, if you have something valuable...
The true value of CI is in the enjoyment of using it over many many years, they also save you money by removing the need to re-purchase new non-stick pans year after year.
Vintage pans were sanded from the factory to remove the rough surface, this was standard process. Each of my vintage Wagner pans show witness marks from this process.
My suggestion is to do what you want based on what it is you are trying to accomplish and how much you want to spend.
Man u have just ruined it 😓
You still giving this pan away?
Hi Chef,
I've attempted a repair to this pan by welding with a nickel electrode, the problem is that it was much more difficult than I expected and I'm not satisfied with it.
I have a video idea coming up that I want to try using what is left of the pan.
Use it for pizza.
I guess you could feed your dog with it.
Ha, thank you for the idea. It would take care of the bowls that endlessly move around. I have 2 other ideas for this pan, one is already in the works, the other will come right after. I just need some shop time to get it done.
I don't think a chicken can lay 2 eggs at the same time.
Pass. you took a piece of history and even art and made it functional again. ya cracks are a downer but don't always ruin a skillet. Good job give it away or even sell it. its Wagner Even with a crack and the pitting on the cook surface.... A year of use and it will be perfect. great video
Wagners are super old and expensive
There are quite a few Wagners available near me in Ontario, they usually go for around $10 CAD for a 10".. So if I see one in good shape I pick it up.
Can I have the pan
You ruined your pan, good thing it was just a late year Wagner
I didn't update the notes, the "crack" was a fine string of egg whites. I only found out after I ground it out to try welding with nickel55....unsuccessfully.
@@NeedItMakeIt check out this video, this guy has really helped me out with my restoration projects I have a decent collection now. Doesn’t take a lot of work to clean one up with the right technique and to have it hold it’s value. Please don’t use wire wheels and sanders and such on a pan
ua-cam.com/video/W-IWYXM4p_Q/v-deo.html
@@zzanzak This was my first cast iron video, it leaves much to be desired. I am a fan of the CI pan, and I do own several vintage pans in good shape and I have left them unchanged with the exception of coats of seasoning.
Needs ketchup
Now I'm hungry...😫
All cast iron skillets are the worst!
I am sensing that you have had some bad experiences in your past.... care to share? The best feature of cast iron is that you keep it for a lifetime if you treat it right. I was sick of replacing the non-stick pans, so I moved on.
@@NeedItMakeIt I didn't. They're just shit.
Lol you must not know how to use them
You did nothing by hand.
You ruined it. There was no need for sanding or grinding!
There are other ways to do this no question, this was my first CI video. As far as ruining it, considering it was going to the trash and was given to me for free, I'm not sure ruining is the correct description.
JC Penny has a set of 3 Cast Iron Skillets for 17 dollars right now.
That is how I restore my Cast Iron... just spend 20 bucks for a new one.
Don't need to spend all day restoring.
Who has all those tools and time?
I'd rather crack open a beer and watch some TV after buying a new Cast Iron Pan.
You can even just buy it on the internet these days never having to leave the house.
They are pretty cheap new on sale, I purchased a really nice kitchen aid on sale at Canadian tire about 5 years ago, and it is my go-to pan. The problem is that I have an addiction to restoring things that look like junk to most people. The logo on the bottom caught my eye, turns out that there is little value in the ones made later on like this one.
I will say that some of my new and more expensive pans have major flaws, they are convex and do not cook evenly. I believe the manufacturers have done this on purpose since they are identical for each pan I own of the Lagostina. When cooking bacon for example, the pieces near the center do not see much fat and burn very quickly. I expect they have done this to make sure the pans always sit without rocking around on the stove top.
Thanks for the comment, I have better videos coming out which include a narrative so they'll be more helpful and describe why I do what I do.
@@NeedItMakeIt No doubt the pans of new are not the pans of old.
I get it that this is your "fun" or "hobby."
Nothing wrong with that... I just noticed that is an awful lot of work when I can just throw some money at it.
I bought some at Walmart on Sale that work Great!
Pioneer Lady Bull S--T but for 20 bucks they are disposable.
I haven't had any problems with warping.
I had a Lodge Dutch Oven that I left closed and oiled for months.
Big Mistake... Sticky and hasn't been right ever since... 18 dollars on sale.
I can take that loss if I get too lazy to re season.
I respect what you are doing though!!
No worries, it was not one of the projects I am most proud of. The reason I switched to cast iron was because I was fed up with replacing 'good quality' non-stick pans every few years; the idea was for these to act as a long-term investment. Pans get lots of use in most homes so they do tend to wear out quickly and they go through many cycles of hot/cold with warping issues etc, so the cast for me is the solution... as long as they are flat that is.
What part of China is Texas in? Only American cast Iron in my house.
Oven, self clean cycle, done. Why are you putting forth all that unnecessary effort?
Interesting technique, I'm not so sure that would work so well on something this bad, and it would not do anything to flatten the pan. Worth a look for future projects though, so thanks for the tip.
The projects I work on are done more for learning and the challenge.
Ruin it
It's junk
Pretty badly pitted.
Absolutely, not really the best outcome, I have another restoration video coming out soon which is hopefully more impressive, and no grinding involved.
YOUNG MA N ,
U DOING THIS ASS BACKWARD CLEANING , / NEVER USE A GRINDER
Which method do you recommend?