I've been working to get a 2007 focus with almost 200,000 miles drivable for my friend... after everything else was done and it would fit start, when I took it for a test drive, I noticed the transmission slipping. It looked like the transmission fluid had never been changed. So I finally got almost all the old fluid out by draining and filling between drives. It hasn't improved the problem, though. I think I have it narrowed down to it slipping when the torque converter clutch is engaging or disengaging. Accelerate when the scan tool says the clutch solenoid is modulating and it revs up without speeding up. Possibly also happening while shifting from 3rd to 4th... I need to test more. They're broke, so there's no way it's going to a specialist. That's why I put so much time into this for free to get it running. All I would be confidently capable of is working on the valve body, checking the valves and installing new solenoids. Do you think it's probably a more serious problem than that? Should I even bother with the solenoids? I know it should ideally be rebuilt, but I'm afraid it I actually took it out and got it apart, I wouldn't get it back together again correctly.
I enjoyed the video. I am rebuilding the valve body on a Mazda 3 FN4AEL that is still in the car. Can you give me any help with installing the complete assembly with the accumulators? I don't know how I can keep them up in the case while I lift the valve body back in place. What do you do? Thanks Yep.
Just want to let you know that a 5 year old video is still helping. I Have a FN4AEL in a 2006 Mazda 5 also know as the Premacy. The previous owner of the vehicle hot codes for one or two of the solenoids and didn't want mess with it. So i took it of his hands and bought a valve body and a shift kit off Amazon. I just disassemble the valve body to install the shift kit. And I noticed all of the valves are gummed up. I used a soft bristled nylon brush in the bores put it all back together. I didn't know that those Pistons are supposed to move as easily as they do in your video. I need to go back now and recheck them because when I fill the transmission up with the Mazda fluid ran it up to temperature if physically wouldn't shift past reverse. If you do read this thanks for your video and maybe you could tell me the little lever from the valve body that interfaces with the Gear selector in the Transmission. Should it be in a certain position when I install the valve body or does the fluid pressure take care of it?
hi, you need to make sure selector valve is correctly aligned. these trans also have issue of servo piston breaking and/or wearing larger servo piston rod guide port in case. when you remove vbody you can air pressure test apply ports.....few things to check. cheers
Thank you for the replying. I'm having trouble finding any information on where the selector switch should be set. I hope it doesn't have any other issues as the transmission only has 100,000 miles on it.
Great video!! I'm looking at dropping the pan and valve body. Any tips on getting the accumulators back in and keeping them there when working under the car? Gravity is not our friend in this instance lol. The trans sometimes is hard to get into reverse and 1st is nearly impossible. Something pops and then everything shifts normal again.
disconnect cable at the trans and see if you can select trans easily, then you will eliminate if its in trans or cable end. if its in the tbar selector, look for work bushings or broken plastic sleeves, could also be gummed up cable or frayed. cheers
@@YepThatsIt great will do. I disconnected it at the shifter today to see if I could push it to set the park pin but no luck. When it's in park, it still rolls. I didn't do it at the transmission.
hi, always good to pressure test the clutches when you lower the valve body. on these check out the servo piston...the shaft wears out the case, however saying all that it is entirely up to you ! cheers
2009 Ford Fusion delayed engagement from a stop. Jerks a little. All the other gears are good. Thinking B solenoid or the clutch plates. Not done a trans yet. Am I on the right path. Thinking of doing my first rebuild or partial since everything else is smooth. Recommendations on the possible problem? Swapping the solenoids this weekend to try that angle. Thanks
That's a great video, thanks for sharing it. I'm wondering, do you have something like a manual to check the procedure, torque and all these minor aspects?
Hi there!!! I have a 2008 Mazda 6, the "AT" ligth is on , the scanner says Solenoid B is stuck on (p0757) ....the thing is that my car has *no reverse* _ Can a faulty TCM cause a transmission to lose reverse? or is the solenoid B that's causing that issue?
Hi there! A question: My 2007 2.3L 5-speed Mazda 6 V-Belt suddenly unravelled (let's say 70% of it) but at the exact same time the car would accelerate but won't shift into any gear. I could hear a fairly buzzing sound while trying to shift. Check engine light is off but AT is on. Could it be related to the V-belt? I know is crazy but is such a coincidence that both thing happened at the same time!
I have a 99 Premacy 1.8 with 130k miles. The hold light has been randomly flashing and then the AT fails to select OD. Any ideas what the most likely cause?
Good! 4F27E I have that box, it presents fault only in Cold and when it lasts more than 1/2 hour off ..! Failure does not apply speed in DRIVER, it must warm up 10 minutes and makes all changes well .. With great force and perfectly! What should I replace or repair? Thank you
Great movie!!!! Hello! I have a problem with my 4F27E in the Ford Focus mk2 2.0 2008. 4-speed gearbox. The problem arises when the box acquires temperature. The more hot, the more frequent jerking symptoms. Transmission tugs when it stops and I move. And at the pit stop, he occasionally taps when changing gears from P to R, from R to D and vice versa. The hydraulic controller has been pulled out and apparently it is not roasted. Two Shift A and B solenoid valves have been replaced because they did not want to change gears, but now it's ok. The above symptoms remain. What's the problem? Please help
hi, did you torque the valve body bolts per specs ( 75 - 90 inch lb )? if over tight it can restrict valves from shuttling freely, especially when warms up. different metals expand at different rates with temperature. check the accumulator pistons and the servo piston rod hasn`t worn the bore in case ( common on these, but band is only for 2nd and 4th ). maybe have a look at the other pwm solenoids, they operate from varying amps, pulse width modulated solenoids regulate the fluid from the solenoids to the clutches, whereas the shift solenoids are just on/off. cheers
@@YepThatsIt I do not have that knowledge. The mechanic did it for me. I will ask. I'm from Poland and I do not know English very much .... Can shift A and B cause jerks when I move and stop the car?
@@YepThatsIt I sent a hydraulic driver for HYDRO-TEST. And you know what turned out that shift A and B deviate from the norm and it is for replacement, and the body gasket is worn out. Do you know where in USA you can buy such electrovalves (new OEM Ford) at a good price? In Europe it is very expensive: (
I reckon you'd have a lot less gunk getting in the valves if you pulled them out before sanding/grinding the surface. I've got to figure out why my Mazda is screeching like a banshee in Reverse and bogs the engine down in Drive. ' I bolted the TC to the engine first, then slid on the trans like you do a manual. Rotated the engine by hand and realized the mistake. What I'm hoping to spot is what could have become damaged beyond the oil pump from that fiasco. No problems in Neutral or Park. I don't know what I hope the problem is. I wish there was no problem, this car is driving me crazy!
hi, less flexing when valves are in place.... not correct way to fit an automatic transmission, hard to determine damage without having it apart, we send torque converters away to be reconditioned. cheers
Hi, I have a Ford Focus MK2 (2006)European built with a 4F27E transmission (I believe, not confirmed) and I want to rebuild it. How do I know for sure if my transmission carry a single sided or a double sided clutches in order to purchase the right kit? My car has about 80K miles, and I have never changed the oil in about 6 years of ownership. I noticed a feedback on the transmission at one time, so I immediately checked the oil. I noticed the oil was VERY dirty (brown river water in color) so I changed it myself. I noticed that there were NO metal filings nor any excessive clutch material in the pan, next to nothing at all. I have seen much worse that didn't have a problem. Overall, everything looked, I would say better than average inside the pan. After changing the oil, the transmission started giving different codes indicating Shift Solenoid C fault, Engine System Defaults, and Transmission Gear Ratio Incorrect. Sometimes the car would have a Hard Shift and a prolong shift from first to second gear. I also noticed that the car was stuck in high gear and would take off in same gear. I changed out the oil again and put back in the same old solenoid since the new solenoid continued giving the same code. The solenoid code went away afterwards even with the old one. What are your thoughts as to what could be the problem/issue with my transmission? Someone mentioned that the pressure valve could be sticking and causing the problem. I also saw that they are selling a modified shift kit for this transmission. Would that help or fix my situation? Thank you for your help.
I have a 2012 transit connect with 130k miles on it. Transmission was rebuilt at 48k miles while under warranty, something to do with overdrive as the rpm would surge up and down rhythmically while on the interstate. Well about 6 months ago I'm cruising along at about 45 mph coasting downhill and the transmission downshifts massively out of nowhere. Van went from 45 mph to like 15 mph in a split second and I just about ate the steering wheel lol. I pulled over to the side of the road and put into neutral and back into drive and van wouldn't move. I turn the van off and everything returned to normal and van has driven fine for another 5k miles. But I've been paranoid about it happening again. Any ideas what could have happened? Thinking of doing the filter and fluid anyway so I'll be able to inspect pan contents and check anything you may recommend.
hi, there was a recall on the 6R series transmissions ( 6r60 & 6r80 ) I read about that caused intermittent downshifting from 6th to 2nd on these...I think was faulty speed sensor confusing the computer. hope that helps cheers
I have a tool that will issue protons brand of turkey istanbul, model 1998 Mitsubishi motor motor vehicle automatic gearbox problem I'm working, but I'm not moving very slowly an automatic transmission did new car, but cıktı solenoid problem does occur, how do we solve, you must help me
hi, sorry just found your comment in youtubes spam. contact me on my face book link facebook.com/Yep-Thats-It-103051017785435/ and leave me which kind of vehicle/transmission type you have, and leave a detailed description of any fault codes and issue you are having ( we are able to exchange pics/diagrams on there ) and details of what work you have already performed or checked...... you will need to buy me some beers ( link is in face book ) and I will answer your questions accordingly. cheers
I think I will soon be making good use of your video. Mazda 3 2004 2.3L automatic can't shift to 3rd or 4th gear, however indicator light does shows 3 quickly (early?) shifting to 4 both at ~20mph. AT light is then on. However when indicating 4th at 20-25mph it revs high rpms and is not or poorly engaged and car come to a crawl. There is no downward change in rpms upon in 3 or 4, so it's not really shifting into these gears IMO. Using manual shift mode, the car drives ok in 1 and 2-- in 2 it can go beyond 20mph, to around 30-35mph at high revs. Shifting manually to 3, there is no apparent shift, and if driven like this for even a short time manual mode no longer indicates which gear it's in and eventually loses engagement-- at this point shifting back to automatic mode shows the car to be in 4, with the same engagement problem as before. Shifting to park, turning off and on the car resets the system, A code reader shows PO772 (solenoid E stuck on) after a while, though it doesn't appear for a while . I replaced solenoids E and D (smaller ones), but no improvement. At one point I did see PO773. Could this this be electrical in any way or is the direct 3rd/4th clutch damaged as I suspect? Is there any way to leave the transmission on the car while replacing the 3/4 direct clutch?
hi, depending on which manual you use, ford & mazda name the same solenoid differently. if no change when you replaced solenoids, i`d be checking band servo piston bore if worn, also air pressure test ports when vbody is out. generally fault codes come on which electrical issues, a leaking solenoid or stuck solenoid wont throw a fault code. if helped, I enjoy a beer or 3. link is in description. cheers
Same car same problem.. but I have no codes coming up after the AT light comes on. Did you ever figure out yours? Should I just replace all solenoids in the transmission?
@@Cornbreadfed420 it looks like it's the direct clutch although there was at least one guy who found that just replacing the rear cover solved the problem. I changed several solenoids, but that didn't help. The car eventually went into a mode where reverse, 1st and 2nd work, so it's been drivable locally, so I haven't tried the potential repair which sounds like it's possible with the tranny still on the car.
I have reverse, 1, and second but once I get to a certain speed or hit 3rd or 4th the car jerks and it goes into AT mode with high revs and doesn't down shift. It shifts really hard when I'm in park to neutral. But once I turn off car At light goes away.
. My automatic transmission is not shifting 4rt to 5th gear why? Also hard shifting 1st to 2nd gear ALL THESE PROBLEM CAME AFTER ENGINE REPLACEMENT. Please provide me exact possible reasons. is valve body cleaning good option for solving these issues?. p0735-FF TRANSMISSION GEAR # 5 INCORRECT RATIO & p2708 -FF SHIFT SOLENOID F STUCK ON
@@YepThatsIt p0735-FF TRANSMISSION GEAR # 5 INCORRECT RATIO & p2708 -FF SHIFT SOLENOID F STUCK ON . ALL THESE PROBLEM CAME AFTER ENGINE REPLACEMENT. Please provide me exact possible reasons.
Any idea how to access the park pin? Someone in my family decided to put the car into neutral while going down a hill. They instead hit park and the car made a bunch of clicking noises and a bang. Car still drives but when you put it into park, it still rolls.
@@YepThatsIt sorry I ment pawl, I learned the terminology after I posted this. I guess I'm curious if I can access the pawl from the bottom of the trans without pulling it. I noticed you didn't show that part in your video (unless I missed it)
@@chrisp1795 hi, you should be able to see it in there somewhere....unfortunately to access the pawl, spring or pivot pin, you need to separate the case. if you need a repair manual you can contact me on face book link. cheers
@@YepThatsIt so separating the case means pulling the engine and trans to get the case apart? I may be messaging you soon. We have a snow storm right now so I'm in limbo.
Very well done! I love the mistakes left in so the rest of us can feel human!
thanks & cheers 👍
Im glad you thought about the people who get stuff all mixed up, not many people do :)
Thanks and Cheers 👍
Looks easy when someone else does it !
You are a Transmission GOD
haha thanks but no way ! cheers
Thank you very much or sharing your excellent Mechanical Technology Skills , I learned quite a bit today.
glad to hear, cheers
I've been working to get a 2007 focus with almost 200,000 miles drivable for my friend... after everything else was done and it would fit start, when I took it for a test drive, I noticed the transmission slipping. It looked like the transmission fluid had never been changed.
So I finally got almost all the old fluid out by draining and filling between drives. It hasn't improved the problem, though.
I think I have it narrowed down to it slipping when the torque converter clutch is engaging or disengaging. Accelerate when the scan tool says the clutch solenoid is modulating and it revs up without speeding up. Possibly also happening while shifting from 3rd to 4th... I need to test more.
They're broke, so there's no way it's going to a specialist. That's why I put so much time into this for free to get it running.
All I would be confidently capable of is working on the valve body, checking the valves and installing new solenoids. Do you think it's probably a more serious problem than that? Should I even bother with the solenoids?
I know it should ideally be rebuilt, but I'm afraid it I actually took it out and got it apart, I wouldn't get it back together again correctly.
hi, there are a few things you could try...contact me on facebook link, at least we can exchange vids and pics and beers on there. cheers
Same issue to me. I just bought rebuilding kit to replace the old one. Hopefully it will work.
I enjoyed the video. I am rebuilding the valve body on a Mazda 3 FN4AEL that is still in the car. Can you give me any help with installing the complete assembly with the accumulators? I don't know how I can keep them up in the case while I lift the valve body back in place. What do you do? Thanks Yep.
hi, use assembly gel and stick them on the valve body and carefull lift up. if you`re in aust we can sell you the gel via our facebook link. cheers
Just want to let you know that a 5 year old video is still helping. I Have a FN4AEL in a 2006 Mazda 5 also know as the Premacy. The previous owner of the vehicle hot codes for one or two of the solenoids and didn't want mess with it. So i took it of his hands and bought a valve body and a shift kit off Amazon. I just disassemble the valve body to install the shift kit. And I noticed all of the valves are gummed up. I used a soft bristled nylon brush in the bores put it all back together. I didn't know that those Pistons are supposed to move as easily as they do in your video. I need to go back now and recheck them because when I fill the transmission up with the Mazda fluid ran it up to temperature if physically wouldn't shift past reverse.
If you do read this thanks for your video and maybe you could tell me the little lever from the valve body that interfaces with the Gear selector in the Transmission. Should it be in a certain position when I install the valve body or does the fluid pressure take care of it?
hi, you need to make sure selector valve is correctly aligned. these trans also have issue of servo piston breaking and/or wearing larger servo piston rod guide port in case. when you remove vbody you can air pressure test apply ports.....few things to check. cheers
Thank you for the replying. I'm having trouble finding any information on where the selector switch should be set. I hope it doesn't have any other issues as the transmission only has 100,000 miles on it.
I really don't want to drop the transmission I'm just a shade tree mechanic.
I believe I found the info car should be in drive and selector inside the transmission should be in Drive. Correct?
Great video!! I'm looking at dropping the pan and valve body. Any tips on getting the accumulators back in and keeping them there when working under the car? Gravity is not our friend in this instance lol.
The trans sometimes is hard to get into reverse and 1st is nearly impossible. Something pops and then everything shifts normal again.
hi, sounds like selector cable issue. cheers
@@YepThatsIt I'm hoping so, any idea on what to look for? I'm going to open up the selector cover and take another look.
disconnect cable at the trans and see if you can select trans easily, then you will eliminate if its in trans or cable end. if its in the tbar selector, look for work bushings or broken plastic sleeves, could also be gummed up cable or frayed. cheers
@@YepThatsIt great will do. I disconnected it at the shifter today to see if I could push it to set the park pin but no luck. When it's in park, it still rolls.
I didn't do it at the transmission.
P
Hello, is the brain in this vehicle the same as in the fnr5 gearbox?
hi one is 4 speed yours is 5 speed. cheers
@@YepThatsIt Hey is there a chance you can tell me what are transmission valve body torque specs are for 2006 Mazda 3s 2.3 4cyl DOHC Automatic
Thanks for the video. If I just want to change the solenoid block, should I still take the whole staff out as happened here 09:25
hi, always good to pressure test the clutches when you lower the valve body. on these check out the servo piston...the shaft wears out the case, however saying all that it is entirely up to you ! cheers
In the video it appears you are using the old gaskets how important is it to change the gaskets
2009 Ford Fusion delayed engagement from a stop. Jerks a little. All the other gears are good. Thinking B solenoid or the clutch plates. Not done a trans yet. Am I on the right path. Thinking of doing my first rebuild or partial since everything else is smooth. Recommendations on the possible problem? Swapping the solenoids this weekend to try that angle. Thanks
hi, if one solenoid contaminated then all will be. make sure you check all the basics before you start pulling apart. cheers
That's a great video, thanks for sharing it. I'm wondering, do you have something like a manual to check the procedure, torque and all these minor aspects?
hi, yes contact me via our facebook link in any of our video descriptions. cheers
Hi there!!! I have a 2008 Mazda 6, the "AT" ligth is on , the scanner says Solenoid B is stuck on (p0757) ....the thing is that my car has *no reverse* _ Can a faulty TCM cause a transmission to lose reverse? or is the solenoid B that's causing that issue?
hi, sorry for delay in reply, we just got back last monday. it can if solenoid is stuck allowing fluid in wrong direction. cheers
Could you use hylomer on that valve body gasket after a good block sand
hi, i would never recommend that. cheers
Hi there!
A question: My 2007 2.3L 5-speed Mazda 6 V-Belt suddenly unravelled (let's say 70% of it) but at the exact same time the car would accelerate but won't shift into any gear. I could hear a fairly buzzing sound while trying to shift.
Check engine light is off but AT is on. Could it be related to the V-belt? I know is crazy but is such a coincidence that both thing happened at the same time!
I have a 99 Premacy 1.8 with 130k miles. The hold light has been randomly flashing and then the AT fails to select OD. Any ideas what the most likely cause?
hi. electrical issue. most likely contaminated/leaking solenoid. always check all the basics first before you pull anything apart. cheers
Excelente. Ojalá se pudiera en español.
cheers
no creo que haya sido necesario abrir eso si el problema es en las pastas y metales, tu como lo vez?
Good! 4F27E I have that box, it presents fault only in Cold and when it lasts more than 1/2 hour off ..! Failure does not apply speed in DRIVER, it must warm up 10 minutes and makes all changes well .. With great force and perfectly! What should I replace or repair? Thank you
hi, have you taken off the trans pan? could be blocked filter and or sticky valve in valve body. cheers
@@YepThatsIt I have never taken out a pan, my vehicle has 150,000 miles, should I change the oil box? Thank you
Great movie!!!! Hello! I have a problem with my 4F27E in the Ford Focus mk2 2.0 2008. 4-speed gearbox.
The problem arises when the box acquires temperature. The more hot, the more frequent jerking symptoms. Transmission tugs when it stops and I move. And at the pit stop, he occasionally taps when changing gears from P to R, from R to D and vice versa. The hydraulic controller has been pulled out and apparently it is not roasted. Two Shift A and B solenoid valves have been replaced because they did not want to change gears, but now it's ok. The above symptoms remain. What's the problem? Please help
hi, did you torque the valve body bolts per specs ( 75 - 90 inch lb )? if over tight it can restrict valves from shuttling freely, especially when warms up. different metals expand at different rates with temperature. check the accumulator pistons and the servo piston rod hasn`t worn the bore in case ( common on these, but band is only for 2nd and 4th ). maybe have a look at the other pwm solenoids, they operate from varying amps, pulse width modulated solenoids regulate the fluid from the solenoids to the clutches, whereas the shift solenoids are just on/off. cheers
@@YepThatsIt I do not have that knowledge. The mechanic did it for me. I will ask. I'm from Poland and I do not know English very much .... Can shift A and B cause jerks when I move and stop the car?
hi, I`d recommend you ask your mechanic, but I would recommend see a transmission specialist. cheers
@@YepThatsIt I sent a hydraulic driver for HYDRO-TEST.
And you know what turned out that shift A and B deviate from the norm and it is for replacement, and the body gasket is worn out.
Do you know where in USA you can buy such electrovalves (new OEM Ford) at a good price? In Europe it is very expensive: (
@@ha48124 try ebay cheers
I reckon you'd have a lot less gunk getting in the valves if you pulled them out before sanding/grinding the surface.
I've got to figure out why my Mazda is screeching like a banshee in Reverse and bogs the engine down in Drive.
'
I bolted the TC to the engine first, then slid on the trans like you do a manual. Rotated the engine by hand and realized the mistake. What I'm hoping to spot is what could have become damaged beyond the oil pump from that fiasco. No problems in Neutral or Park.
I don't know what I hope the problem is. I wish there was no problem, this car is driving me crazy!
hi, less flexing when valves are in place.... not correct way to fit an automatic transmission, hard to determine damage without having it apart, we send torque converters away to be reconditioned. cheers
@@YepThatsIt problem worked itself out after pulling it apart yet again. I suspect sticking valves from new fluid and debris flow.
Several of my valves snug fitting.
no worries, cheers
Hi, I have a Ford Focus MK2 (2006)European built with a 4F27E transmission (I believe, not confirmed) and I want to rebuild it. How do I know for sure if my transmission carry a single sided or a double sided clutches in order to purchase the right kit?
My car has about 80K miles, and I have never changed the oil in about 6 years of ownership. I noticed a feedback on the transmission at one time, so I immediately checked the oil. I noticed the oil was VERY dirty (brown river water in color) so I changed it myself. I noticed that there were NO metal filings nor any excessive clutch material in the pan, next to nothing at all. I have seen much worse that didn't have a problem. Overall, everything looked, I would say better than average inside the pan. After changing the oil, the transmission started giving different codes indicating Shift Solenoid C fault, Engine System Defaults, and Transmission Gear Ratio Incorrect. Sometimes the car would have a Hard Shift and a prolong shift from first to second gear. I also noticed that the car was stuck in high gear and would take off in same gear. I changed out the oil again and put back in the same old solenoid since the new solenoid continued giving the same code. The solenoid code went away afterwards even with the old one.
What are your thoughts as to what could be the problem/issue with my transmission? Someone mentioned that the pressure valve could be sticking and causing the problem. I also saw that they are selling a modified shift kit for this transmission. Would that help or fix my situation?
Thank you for your help.
hi, for more technical questions contact me via our facebook link in description, bring some beers too link in description, cheers
I have a 2012 transit connect with 130k miles on it. Transmission was rebuilt at 48k miles while under warranty, something to do with overdrive as the rpm would surge up and down rhythmically while on the interstate.
Well about 6 months ago I'm cruising along at about 45 mph coasting downhill and the transmission downshifts massively out of nowhere. Van went from 45 mph to like 15 mph in a split second and I just about ate the steering wheel lol.
I pulled over to the side of the road and put into neutral and back into drive and van wouldn't move. I turn the van off and everything returned to normal and van has driven fine for another 5k miles. But I've been paranoid about it happening again. Any ideas what could have happened?
Thinking of doing the filter and fluid anyway so I'll be able to inspect pan contents and check anything you may recommend.
hi, there was a recall on the 6R series transmissions ( 6r60 & 6r80 ) I read about that caused intermittent downshifting from 6th to 2nd on these...I think was faulty speed sensor confusing the computer. hope that helps cheers
@@YepThatsIt are those variations of the 4F27E in my transit connect? Or does my connect not have a 4F27E?
I thought has 6r60 or 6r80 trans?
get on google im sure you will find the recall info somewhere
@@YepThatsIt my brother in law says it's a 4f27e and ots also listed in the header of this video as such also. Transit connect 2.0L Duratec
The automatic transmission mazda does not go into reverse before the oil warms up. What could be the cause of the malfunction?
hi, can be any number of things? start by checking all the basics first. cheers
@@YepThatsIt Thank you for your reply. My car is a 2000 model automatic Mazda 323. Can it prevent me from shifting into gear due to the solenoids?
How about if gear 2 and 3 ratio incorrect? Is it valve body or mechanical inside problem??
hi, check all basics first before you remove pan for a peek. cheers
I have a tool that will issue protons brand of turkey istanbul, model 1998 Mitsubishi motor motor vehicle automatic gearbox problem I'm working, but I'm not moving very slowly an automatic transmission did new car, but cıktı solenoid problem does occur, how do we solve, you must help me
hi, sorry just found your comment in youtubes spam. contact me on my face book link facebook.com/Yep-Thats-It-103051017785435/ and leave me which kind of vehicle/transmission type you have, and leave a detailed description of any fault codes and issue you are having ( we are able to exchange pics/diagrams on there ) and details of what work you have already performed or checked...... you will need to buy me some beers ( link is in face book ) and I will answer your questions accordingly. cheers
I think I will soon be making good use of your video. Mazda 3 2004 2.3L automatic can't shift to 3rd or 4th gear, however indicator light does shows 3 quickly (early?) shifting to 4 both at ~20mph. AT light is then on. However when indicating 4th at 20-25mph it revs high rpms and is not or poorly engaged and car come to a crawl. There is no downward change in rpms upon in 3 or 4, so it's not really shifting into these gears IMO. Using manual shift mode, the car drives ok in 1 and 2-- in 2 it can go beyond 20mph, to around 30-35mph at high revs. Shifting manually to 3, there is no apparent shift, and if driven like this for even a short time manual mode no longer indicates which gear it's in and eventually loses engagement-- at this point shifting back to automatic mode shows the car to be in 4, with the same engagement problem as before. Shifting to park, turning off and on the car resets the system,
A code reader shows PO772 (solenoid E stuck on) after a while, though it doesn't appear for a while . I replaced solenoids E and D (smaller ones), but no improvement. At one point I did see PO773.
Could this this be electrical in any way or is the direct 3rd/4th clutch damaged as I suspect? Is there any way to leave the transmission on the car while replacing the 3/4 direct clutch?
hi, depending on which manual you use, ford & mazda name the same solenoid differently. if no change when you replaced solenoids, i`d be checking band servo piston bore if worn, also air pressure test ports when vbody is out. generally fault codes come on which electrical issues, a leaking solenoid or stuck solenoid wont throw a fault code. if helped, I enjoy a beer or 3. link is in description. cheers
Same car same problem.. but I have no codes coming up after the AT light comes on. Did you ever figure out yours? Should I just replace all solenoids in the transmission?
@@Cornbreadfed420 it looks like it's the direct clutch although there was at least one guy who found that just replacing the rear cover solved the problem. I changed several solenoids, but that didn't help. The car eventually went into a mode where reverse, 1st and 2nd work, so it's been drivable locally, so I haven't tried the potential repair which sounds like it's possible with the tranny still on the car.
I have reverse, 1, and second but once I get to a certain speed or hit 3rd or 4th the car jerks and it goes into AT mode with high revs and doesn't down shift. It shifts really hard when I'm in park to neutral. But once I turn off car At light goes away.
.
My automatic transmission is not shifting 4rt to 5th gear why? Also hard shifting 1st to 2nd gear ALL THESE PROBLEM CAME AFTER ENGINE REPLACEMENT. Please provide me exact possible reasons. is valve body cleaning good option for solving these issues?.
p0735-FF TRANSMISSION GEAR # 5 INCORRECT RATIO
& p2708 -FF SHIFT SOLENOID F STUCK ON
hi, wow exact reasons ! i`d need to see the vehicle. fault codes indicate electrical parameters have been exceeded a few consecutive times. cheers
My automatic transmission is not shifting 4rt to 5th gear why? Also hard shifting 1st to 2nd gear
hi, i`d need more info, check all the basics first and test for any fault codes present. cheers
@@YepThatsIt p0735-FF TRANSMISSION GEAR # 5 INCORRECT RATIO
& p2708 -FF SHIFT SOLENOID F STUCK ON .
ALL THESE PROBLEM CAME AFTER ENGINE REPLACEMENT. Please provide me exact possible reasons.
Any idea how to access the park pin? Someone in my family decided to put the car into neutral while going down a hill. They instead hit park and the car made a bunch of clicking noises and a bang. Car still drives but when you put it into park, it still rolls.
hi, usually the parking pawl breaks not the pin. before you pull out trans drop the pan and have a look issue may be fixed without removal. cheers
@@YepThatsIt sorry I ment pawl, I learned the terminology after I posted this. I guess I'm curious if I can access the pawl from the bottom of the trans without pulling it. I noticed you didn't show that part in your video (unless I missed it)
@@chrisp1795 hi, you should be able to see it in there somewhere....unfortunately to access the pawl, spring or pivot pin, you need to separate the case. if you need a repair manual you can contact me on face book link. cheers
@@YepThatsIt so separating the case means pulling the engine and trans to get the case apart? I may be messaging you soon. We have a snow storm right now so I'm in limbo.
@@chrisp1795 hi, we only remove the transmission, but whatever is easier and more practical with the tools and equipment you have. cheers
What