@Ian A leaking pump is a sign that other seals on the pump will soon be leaking as well. However, you can change the cover seal but be very careful and make sure the pump's clean on the outside before attempting repair. May need to take out the full load screw as well (before you put it back in) just to be safe but take note of the measurement.
@tarquin Pre-stroke is indicated on the calibration test sheet. Maybe indicated on the hydraulic head (K-1). But did you test the pump on the bench? Are the values within specs?
+webslinger2011 Sorry but i had don't see your post, thank's! I have search so much on Bosch Esi and i finally found.. i have pre stroke, exactly, i had make a litle """bench""" and now it's just. Now, i'm stuck with the "ms",..
It's included in VE pump tool set. A three sided socket Zexel Part no. 157914-2500 Socket wrench for tightening head plug. Google VE Pump Tools and click the link for Marbed Tools. Can't post here sorry.
i have a question i have a bosh VE pump with the LDA its from a golf mk2 gtd 80hp it used to come with a 8mm plunger but looks like this one was tuned to a 9mm and i was going to put a 10mm i changed it and it wont start i have to be onest with you i didnt calibrated the pump and didnt took of the top or messed with the governor... does it really need calibrating it? and thanks for sharing the knowledge by the way very usefull in doubt as my case ;)
If it's a regular/basic ve pump. It's possible. But very risky. Making sure the plunger's control sleeve slots through the governor lever pivot pin. Also, the governor lever is in contact with the load screw. Also need to take note of the upper spring guide. Doing it this way might destroy the pump. I REALLY DO NOT RECOMMEND IT.
@@webslinger2011 Hi, many thanks for your reply, the pump is from a mitsubishi pajero for reference. please can i ask in what way does removing the top cover first assist. can i ask if you have done one of these and if so how i should proceed.my pump is leaking diesel from the o ring that seals the rear head unit to the pump body, many thanks
@@steveharrod79 If it's been in use for a long time, the seals on the pump are probably worn and must be replaced (not just the rotor head seal). Also, it probably has a boost compensator on top. May I ask why are you doing the repairs yourself?
@@webslinger2011 Hi, thanks for reply. The pump is fine apart from the leak, the cost of full overhaul here is prohibitively expensive so would welcome the opportunity to re seal it.
@@steveharrod79 Have a look at the ve pump disassembly/assembly videos :ua-cam.com/video/pLSefeFnF4w/v-deo.html but yours would have an additional boost compensator for the turbo(if it has one).
I made a mistake and did not loosen the spring tension on the gov arm when i pulled the top governor cover off in chassis on bobcat 843b Isuzu diesel Injection pump # 104641-6131. needless to say when I tapped cover to loosen things flew apart. I looked at your video @ 11:01 I see how the spring from control arm attaches now to plunger which has a dual push spring and small washer on plunger. I was just worried that I may have dropped a part into the pump housing or sump area. But it appears as I have all the parts as they flew into cover and I recovered them. Just wished I had found your video before I took apart. Ok it looks as if I can reassemble now But I may try to run a magnet in sump to make sure. any advise would be appreciated I have a job to do with bobcat so I did not want to wait for dial indicator timing tool otherwise i would have removed pump for a bench job. @ 11:30 you are checking with flashlight the springs you show in @ 10:58 correct both contacts ? explain what you are looking at please. thanks bob
I was making sure that the stop shaft is in the correct spot when I installed the cover. If it got shifted the other way, the engine won't be able to shutoff.
@@webslinger2011 ok thanks much for your video. I got it back together 2x cause i had piviot arm going wrong way. She runs good now no leaks good even fuel delivery and power. Nice build you show. Reminds me of old days when we bench built pumps at ferris state college
i checked the pump today. Looks like its normal. I have put inside a TDI cameplate, which is more hard to turn. I think this is why. Thank you and great work by the way !
@@jazjaz2364 Slightly hard to turn due to the plunger springs. Be very sure the parts are absolutely clean when assembling. Any dirt or contaminants inside will jam the rotor head.
@Nao at least have it mounted on a test bench to see what's it doing. Pump needs to deliver a certain amount of fuel for start. Further more, did you compare the plungers?
we have diesel before the delivery valve holders we thought that was the problem so we changed from a pump of a 1.9 golf gtd its basicly the same pump but with 7mm plunger we pulled diesel to max and no diesel coming out...
I have a little leak from the bolt aside the LDA, they told me that it's a vent for the turbo command. and they told me that this leak require pump removal. Is possibile to remove only the cover and substitute orings without remove the pump from the vehicle?
What would cause the plunger shaft to break? I replaced the O ring on the distribution block, got everything lined back up, little disk in place and springs, I was tightening the screws pulling each side down even and I hear a pop! Broke the shaft down below the port slots at the last groove before the thick donut shaped block. Ugh!
It's important to make sure the guide pins on the plunger head and upper spring seats are located properly before totally tightening it down.Otherwise, misalignment will occur. Also, the plunger must be completely free of dirt before putting it back in.
webslinger2011 yeah its very tight tolerance / fit for the port end of the plunger into the distributor head. I had it super clean. I thought it was aligned. I could push the dist. Head down by hand to the O ring and it seemed fine.
webslinger2011 do you know what pumps and plungers will interchange with each other? Mine is the 1986 Turbo pump with high idle feature on the cold start mechanism.
It all depends on the pump"s number stamped on the housing (i.e. 104746-1510 for zexel, 0460414064 for bosch). Pump shops have software from manufacturers to see which one is applicable.
I have a similar pump on a 1985 Mitsubishi 4d55t in a Dodge D50. I cannot get fuel to the injectors. I primed the tank, got fuel to the filter, and fuel to the feed going into the pump, but no fuel comes out of the pump. I tried a small 12v fuel pump but not luck. Could something be blocked or plugged maybe?
I rebuilt my pump and it does not work like it used to with leaky seals. And no one's got infomation on why the pump does not pump fuel to the injector ports anymore and everyone wants to charge me an arm and a leg for this and that and because i don't have that no one wants to help me. You either pay or you don't get help. $550 for a new housing, $1500 for a rebuild, and it's costed me so far $60 out of pocket on the pump. My Dad's work helped me make some bits and pieces to help get my car going, i gorn and helped out occasionally their, and they tried to help me keep it running good as well as paid me a little towards getting new tires. But i want to keep my car in top nick. Good and bad news with the engine pistons have cracks good news from engineering perspective its nothing other then a hair line that won't be a problem for 100*** till 200*** down the road. If i drive hard 100*** and if i am gentle 200*** but that's about 7 years of my driving standard. My question i have to rectify is the 3 sided triangular bolt at the ports side, if i tighten that up will that increase fuel pressure to the ports? I only done it about finger tight last time and the time before that well... I am not sure, my Dad done it. From schematics if fuel took the path of least resistance it would flow back into the pump. And that's the only point i can find to regulate fuel pressure. Do i go dead tight, do i tension it, do i go tight as possible, back it of 35 degrees, whats the actual procedure? I can't tune it so someones going to make a buck when i have it anyway. And i can drive.
If it's a VE pump. Check for power at the solenoid (fuel cut-off) and see if it clicks. That 3-sided bolt on the side of the pump is for holding the governor. The big one on the end of the pump is just a plug with a small bolt (a special tool goes in and is used to time the pump). There's an overflow bolt on top of the pump(marked with "OUT").
Solenoid click's and flows fuel. Not enough fuel pressure came out of the ports and looking through design documentation i figure that plug is exceptionally important. With it out their are gallery's that feed straight into the pump itself. Fuel takes the path of least resistance it goes back into the pump. My Dad's making a tool, because otherwise i'd be pulling the pump down again to tighten one bolt up the way we took it out. I never read a bolt with out but i know very well about it. I should have cleaned it before putting it back it as it was really dirty i did not realize. It also has a pin sized hole which tells me if the pumps working and i am getting good flow, there has to be really good pressure on the inside to get through that tiny little hole.
My pump kinda does and does not work. I have it squirting fuel through the Distributor ports but i am using a Drill with a special socket to try and test to see if the pump works. It does not fire fuel, and i know i am having trouble with air locks that won't leave me alone. To try and assist i put the rails on, filled them with fuel and tried to run it but sadly that has done barely anything to help. Do you know how to bench test this without expensive equipment without wasting time putting it on the car to find it does not work? Also how do i get the air out of the system? I turned the cam over a couple times but the only result i got out of that was getting rid of some air, the primer is rock solid and goes soft after every couple turns and does not make priming the air out easy as its getting REALLY REALLY HARD! And when i press it the air goes out with the higher stresses.
thank you for this video however i would like to know THE NAME OF THE SPECIAL TOOL TO REMOVE CENTER PLUG PLEASE...i need that tool and no one have it and i alreaddy tried whit many other tools whitout sucess and i need to know the name so i buy it but im tired to check in internet and i cant have the name..please the name....thankx
@Ian A leaking pump is a sign that other seals on the pump will soon be leaking as well. However, you can change the cover seal but be very careful and make sure the pump's clean on the outside before attempting repair. May need to take out the full load screw as well (before you put it back in) just to be safe but take note of the measurement.
@tarquin Pre-stroke is indicated on the calibration test sheet. Maybe indicated on the hydraulic head (K-1). But did you test the pump on the bench? Are the values within specs?
+webslinger2011 Sorry but i had don't see your post, thank's!
I have search so much on Bosch Esi and i finally found.. i have pre stroke, exactly, i had make a litle """bench""" and now it's just.
Now, i'm stuck with the "ms",..
It's included in VE pump tool set. A three sided socket Zexel Part no. 157914-2500
Socket wrench for tightening head plug. Google VE Pump Tools and click the link for Marbed Tools. Can't post here sorry.
i have a question i have a bosh VE pump with the LDA its from a golf mk2 gtd 80hp it used to come with a 8mm plunger but looks like this one was tuned to a 9mm and i was going to put a 10mm i changed it and it wont start i have to be onest with you i didnt calibrated the pump and didnt took of the top or messed with the governor... does it really need calibrating it? and thanks for sharing the knowledge by the way very usefull in doubt as my case ;)
Hi, great videos, can I ask a question please , is it possible to remove the rear head unit of the pump without removing the top cover ?
If it's a regular/basic ve pump. It's possible. But very risky. Making sure the plunger's control sleeve slots through the governor lever pivot pin. Also, the governor lever is in contact with the load screw. Also need to take note of the upper spring guide. Doing it this way might destroy the pump. I REALLY DO NOT RECOMMEND IT.
@@webslinger2011 Hi,
many thanks for your reply, the pump is from a mitsubishi pajero for reference. please can i ask in what way does removing the top cover first assist. can i ask if you have done one of these and if so how i should proceed.my pump is leaking diesel from the o ring that seals the rear head unit to the pump body, many thanks
@@steveharrod79 If it's been in use for a long time, the seals on the pump are probably worn and must be replaced (not just the rotor head seal). Also, it probably has a boost compensator on top. May I ask why are you doing the repairs yourself?
@@webslinger2011 Hi,
thanks for reply. The pump is fine apart from the leak, the cost of full overhaul here is prohibitively expensive so would welcome the opportunity to re seal it.
@@steveharrod79 Have a look at the ve pump disassembly/assembly videos :ua-cam.com/video/pLSefeFnF4w/v-deo.html but yours would have an additional boost compensator for the turbo(if it has one).
I made a mistake and did not loosen the spring tension on the gov arm when i pulled the top governor cover off in chassis on bobcat 843b Isuzu diesel Injection pump # 104641-6131. needless to say when I tapped cover to loosen things flew apart. I looked at your video @ 11:01 I see how the spring from control arm attaches now to plunger which has a dual push spring and small washer on plunger. I was just worried that I may have dropped a part into the pump housing or sump area. But it appears as I have all the parts as they flew into cover and I recovered them. Just wished I had found your video before I took apart. Ok it looks as if I can reassemble now But I may try to run a magnet in sump to make sure. any advise would be appreciated I have a job to do with bobcat so I did not want to wait for dial indicator timing tool otherwise i would have removed pump for a bench job. @ 11:30 you are checking with flashlight the springs you show in @ 10:58 correct both contacts ? explain what you are looking at please. thanks bob
I was making sure that the stop shaft is in the correct spot when I installed the cover. If it got shifted the other way, the engine won't be able to shutoff.
@@webslinger2011 ok thanks much for your video. I got it back together 2x cause i had piviot arm going wrong way. She runs good now no leaks good even fuel delivery and power. Nice build you show. Reminds me of old days when we bench built pumps at ferris state college
Thanks for sharing this very helpful information!
Hey, I have a question: My top 2 delivery valves arent getting through any diesel. What could be the cause?
A ve pump? Could be a broken spring.
@@webslinger2011 Yes, a ve from a vw 1.9 td. Couldn’t it be caused by low case pressure?
Is it hard to turn the pulley by hand ?
i cant turn mine. Does it mean smthg is broken inside ? I just finish reassembling mine.
The shaft should be able to turn using one hand. I would inspect it again to make sure nothing’s wrong.
@@webslinger2011 it should be easy ? we should not feel any resistance ? i will inspect the pump tomorrow.
i checked the pump today. Looks like its normal. I have put inside a TDI cameplate, which is more hard to turn. I think this is why.
Thank you and great work by the way !
@@jazjaz2364 Slightly hard to turn due to the plunger springs. Be very sure the parts are absolutely clean when assembling. Any dirt or contaminants inside will jam the rotor head.
@Nao at least have it mounted on a test bench to see what's it doing. Pump needs to deliver a certain amount of fuel for start. Further more, did you compare the plungers?
we have diesel before the delivery valve holders we thought that was the problem so we changed from a pump of a 1.9 golf gtd its basicly the same pump but with 7mm plunger we pulled diesel to max and no diesel coming out...
@@naodigo1470 try to bleed it with the 4check valves removed
I have a little leak from the bolt aside the LDA, they told me that it's a vent for the turbo command. and they told me that this leak require pump removal.
Is possibile to remove only the cover and substitute orings without remove the pump from the vehicle?
+Francescoguitar Better let them do it.
This was helpful but definitely would have been way more helpful if I could see what was happening on the close ups
Does anyone know the torque specs for the head plug and delivery valve holders?
What would cause the plunger shaft to break? I replaced the O ring on the distribution block, got everything lined back up, little disk in place and springs, I was tightening the screws pulling each side down even and I hear a pop! Broke the shaft down below the port slots at the last groove before the thick donut shaped block. Ugh!
It's important to make sure the guide pins on the plunger head and upper spring seats are located properly before totally tightening it down.Otherwise, misalignment will occur. Also, the plunger must be completely free of dirt before putting it back in.
webslinger2011 yeah its very tight tolerance / fit for the port end of the plunger into the distributor head. I had it super clean. I thought it was aligned. I could push the dist. Head down by hand to the O ring and it seemed fine.
webslinger2011 do you know what pumps and plungers will interchange with each other? Mine is the 1986 Turbo pump with high idle feature on the cold start mechanism.
It all depends on the pump"s number stamped on the housing (i.e. 104746-1510 for zexel, 0460414064 for bosch). Pump shops have software from manufacturers to see which one is applicable.
webslinger2011. Its a 068-130-107 T pump NR 0 460 494 152. Can you look it up? =]
I have a similar pump on a 1985 Mitsubishi 4d55t in a Dodge D50. I cannot get fuel to the injectors. I primed the tank, got fuel to the filter, and fuel to the feed going into the pump, but no fuel comes out of the pump. I tried a small 12v fuel pump but not luck. Could something be blocked or plugged maybe?
TVeik97 Try checking the 12V solenoid at the back of the pump. Do you hear it click when you switch on the ignition?
webslinger2011 yes it does click. Fuel is getting passed that point just not coming out.
Pump may have a problem internally. Did the vehicle sit for a long time?
webslinger2011 It sat for a year. I took it to a local diesel shop.
Great! Parts might be stuck or rusted. It's best to take it to them to repair.
Nice videos but you need better camera brother
taco 8v Thanks!
I rebuilt my pump and it does not work like it used to with leaky seals. And no one's got infomation on why the pump does not pump fuel to the injector ports anymore and everyone wants to charge me an arm and a leg for this and that and because i don't have that no one wants to help me. You either pay or you don't get help.
$550 for a new housing, $1500 for a rebuild, and it's costed me so far $60 out of pocket on the pump. My Dad's work helped me make some bits and pieces to help get my car going, i gorn and helped out occasionally their, and they tried to help me keep it running good as well as paid me a little towards getting new tires. But i want to keep my car in top nick. Good and bad news with the engine pistons have cracks good news from engineering perspective its nothing other then a hair line that won't be a problem for 100*** till 200*** down the road. If i drive hard 100*** and if i am gentle 200*** but that's about 7 years of my driving standard.
My question i have to rectify is the 3 sided triangular bolt at the ports side, if i tighten that up will that increase fuel pressure to the ports? I only done it about finger tight last time and the time before that well... I am not sure, my Dad done it.
From schematics if fuel took the path of least resistance it would flow back into the pump. And that's the only point i can find to regulate fuel pressure.
Do i go dead tight, do i tension it, do i go tight as possible, back it of 35 degrees, whats the actual procedure? I can't tune it so someones going to make a buck when i have it anyway. And i can drive.
If it's a VE pump. Check for power at the solenoid (fuel cut-off) and see if it clicks. That 3-sided bolt on the side of the pump is for holding the governor. The big one on the end of the pump is just a plug with a small bolt (a special tool goes in and is used to time the pump). There's an overflow bolt on top of the pump(marked with "OUT").
Solenoid click's and flows fuel. Not enough fuel pressure came out of the ports and looking through design documentation i figure that plug is exceptionally important. With it out their are gallery's that feed straight into the pump itself. Fuel takes the path of least resistance it goes back into the pump.
My Dad's making a tool, because otherwise i'd be pulling the pump down again to tighten one bolt up the way we took it out.
I never read a bolt with out but i know very well about it. I should have cleaned it before putting it back it as it was really dirty i did not realize. It also has a pin sized hole which tells me if the pumps working and i am getting good flow, there has to be really good pressure on the inside to get through that tiny little hole.
My pump kinda does and does not work. I have it squirting fuel through the Distributor ports but i am using a Drill with a special socket to try and test to see if the pump works. It does not fire fuel, and i know i am having trouble with air locks that won't leave me alone. To try and assist i put the rails on, filled them with fuel and tried to run it but sadly that has done barely anything to help.
Do you know how to bench test this without expensive equipment without wasting time putting it on the car to find it does not work?
Also how do i get the air out of the system? I turned the cam over a couple times but the only result i got out of that was getting rid of some air, the primer is rock solid and goes soft after every couple turns and does not make priming the air out easy as its getting REALLY REALLY HARD! And when i press it the air goes out with the higher stresses.
please share link of pump calibration video ,,,,,,
Only plunger depth checked?
If you really want to know: MS( for starting fuel), K and KF dimension as per calibration data sheet.
@@webslinger2011 Cool! You know your stuff, have done a fair bit of time as a diesel pump tech and get uneasy about things not being done right lol
thank you for this video however i would like to know THE NAME OF THE SPECIAL TOOL TO REMOVE CENTER PLUG PLEASE...i need that tool and no one have it and i alreaddy tried whit many other tools whitout sucess and i need to know the name so i buy it but im tired to check in internet and i cant have the name..please the name....thankx
And also me I have tried I don't
thank you brilliant
gireesh sahu my truck ve serege 3531 dijal averej low so provlem pamp
If you want to see those parts in more detail. ua-cam.com/video/QwVTm2-W-JE/v-deo.html