I have the same year and unit and installed the victron. You don’t have to remove the battery cover. Attach the shunt at the junction box where the leads from the battery attach This is the small square covered box to the right of the battery. Unscrew the cover to expose the terminals. You will have to purchase a 12 inch battery cable to complete the circuit. After the negative side, attach the shunt power lead to the positive post in the junction box. If you do it, it’s probably a good time to hit Harbor Freight for a $19 load tester to see how your batteries are doing.
Thanks James. I'll take another look at this. Do you have a picture of your set up by chance? I"m not very good at these things. Appreciate the help for sure and thanks for watching.
Very good video, I am getting to tackle the battery box removal. We purchased this 2018 TAB 400 in November and so far am not impressed on working on any of the electrical systems- , everything is hard to get too and I’m discovering the hard way. I still do not know what kind of battery I have. We upgraded from a 2010 tab which was super easy to work on. Anyway, more discovery’s to come.
You seem like a very nice guy. I appreciate your making videos. All that said, you need to get a ruler. I am not going to be able to sleep tonight knowing that the right pull handle on the drawer is lopsided. :)
Yeah, I noticed that but it's actually only off by about 1/8 of an inch, not even. It looks worse than it is because of the angle of the camera. My template was a tad off. LOL. But it's more accurate than the eyeball attempt at the paper towel holder. LOL. Thanks for watching.
I did hear your (old coot) disclaimer early on that you're not a perfectionist. So if you are happy with the mounting then I'm O.K. and so should everyone else. I'm a perfectionist by nature so it's difficult for my wife and me to project together. Interestingly enough her projects turn out well and in less time than my projects. We can't help who we are but I am aware so I accept it. Good job BTW. I did some projects on my small camper and I don't do well in tight spaces(claustrophobia) . They weren't perfect. Like you I tend to avoid those sorts of projects but I won't pay $300 either.
Are you boondocking a lot and relying solely on solar? I ask because we’ve done a bit in our 400 and the app has worked for us. I do think nucamp should put some form of hard wired solar monitoring on the BDL packages, but I’m not ready to pull the trigger and drop the $$$ for that monitor. As mentioned we’ve made some long trips with our 400 and here are a few things we’ve done. Built a thin aluminum shelf for under the table to hold my MacBook. Coat rack attached to the panel under the table (where the usb and ac plug are. Will hold 4-additional pairs of shoes out of the way. To the comments on appropriate TW. We pull with a Jeep Grand Cherokee V6 without issue. We do use a sway bar and electronic braking system installed after purchasing the 400. We also installed the 7” Furrion camera and have Tire Pressure Monitoring sensors on the 400 tires. Did quite a bit of reading on TV and one common thread I saw was get a factory installed tow package. Depending on your vehicle, coming from the factory the vehicle’s transmission, coolant system, etc., could be better suited for towing in comparison to getting an after market tow package. Safe travels
In reality, I've done more "testing" of boondocking than actually doing it. I bought that Victron monitor right after I got the Tab after watching a few videos about how. you really need one, but now, two full season in (without having actually installed the monitor) I think you're right - I can convert voltage shown on the Victron app to % charged so I don't think you need it. But, I might still go ahead and install it...well....just cuz I hate to admit defeat on this thing! Great Mod ideas. I might put a few shelves in the closet, but not sure I need those. Regarding the TV, since I made that video and after a long discussion with my wife (who basically didn't like me using her HIghlander as our TV) I traded in my sedan for an F150- Lariat and was able to tow 2x with it so far. I didn't use either a WDH or sway bar, and on one day the cross wind was probably 35mph + and I didn't have an issue - still, I might use the E2 fast hitch WDH/sway control I was using before, simply because even the F150 gets a little squat when hooked up - not much, and less than 1/4" difference on the front end, but better safe than sorry! Thanks for watching! Cheers!
The Victron battery monitor was a great addition to my TAB 320. Sorry to hear it is such a PITA to install in your 400. The $300 installation estimate from the dealer is certainly a ripoff. I agree, the battery monitor is very useful, but not worth that much !!!
I've lived without it without an issue for a while, but then again I've not done any real boondocking. I'm going to give it another go soon. Thanks for watching. Cheers!
Old Coot, you do not need to access the battery itself. The little square box in front (left of battery box) with the large and small wires coming out if it, is the battery distribution box. Inside this easy to get to box, are the positive and negative wires from the battery and the trailer wiring connections to the battery. All you need to do is disconnect the large negative battery cable, and put your battery monitor shunt between the battery negative cable and the distribution box. You will need a short (or ling enough cable) to go from the shunt back to the distribution box where the batter negative cable was attached, same size as the negative battery cable (AWG no 8 or 6). You can mount the shunt on the inside front of the area next to the battery. Now you can route the physical monitor or leave it in the bunk storage area, and use the WiFi app to see the settings, and Bob’s your uncle... cheers
Yes, not that difficult. You can also connect rhe small red battery + connection for the Shunt on the junction box The large white cable going from the battery box to the junction box is the negative connection from the battery. Good luck Cheers
Lol. I've not, but only because I haven't gotten around to it. I think if I really need to get in there I"m just going to have to suck it up and start by unscrewing the protective "hosing" that goes along the outside of it and see where that gets me. If you get to it, good luck and let me know how it goes. Thanks for watching!
Thanks Joe. The biggest issue right now, frankly, is time. I'm retiring in September and it seems my company needs more of my time than ever as we struggle to deal with the Pandemic. But I only have three months to go!
They pack a lot of stuff into a small space. Always easier to do that during construction than after-market. Question: I am seriously considering a Tab400 BL but the tongue wt scares me because I once had and do not want a truck as a tow vehicle. I see you appear to use a Highlander. I also like a couple of other SUVs capable of towing up to 5K lbs, like the Highlander. Have you found the Highlander capable and is there a lot of auto transmission downshifting to keep power up? And given the tongue wt, did you add air shocks since a weight distribution hitch is not recommended for tow vehicles built on car frames? Thanks. Joe
Ahh, the ever present tongue weight question. Seems there's as many answers as questions. First, I did not add air shocks but do have a WHD. I added the WDH after discussing this with both the folks who created the hitch I selected - the E2 hitch by Fastway, my installer, and Toyota - since my best friend is the GM of a Toyota dealership and has direct access to their technical folks. It made a big difference. However....... While the Highlander tows Ok, the combination of the tongue weight and the weight of the WDH itself really puts you at the limit of the Highlander's maximum tongue weight - meaning anything you want to put in the back of the Highlander needs to be pretty light, or in front of the axles. Also interestingly I found that because the fresh water tank is behind the axle, driving with this full takes weight off tongue. Honestly, the Highlander wasn't my preferred choice, it was a compromise vehicle. I'll be retiring soon and trading in my Sedan for a truck, which I prefer and then my wife has the Highlander all to herself. I think if you're generally towing in more or less flat areas, you're ok. I'm in Wisconsin and really don't have any issues. The vehicle doesn't hunt for gears. That said, I would never use the Highlander to tow in mountains (east or west). I think the Jeep has over a 6,000lb towing capacity and 600lb tongue weight - might be a better choice -or the 4Runner, which is rated at 5,000lbs but built on their truck frame. I think you can find an SUV that's a bit heftier than the Highlander. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Thanks for the info. I have been thinking along the same lines-- i.e. that most SUV's with a 5K towing limit would be about at the max line for that trailer. I am not a big Jeep fan, but short of a pickup, it may be the best option. My wife prefers an SUV for its convenience when traveling. We had an F150 4x4 but that sat high and when not towing (most of the time), it was a beast to get in and out of, not to mention 17mpg. Unless I can talk her into something like a Tacoma (not likely), Grand Cherokee here I come. Btw, I like your non-judgmental, down to earth presentations.
@@josephversace5895 I'm sure you'll pick the right vehicle for you. Thanks for the compliment. I'm pretty much a camping by travel trailer newbie - so I'm the last person to pass judgement on anything or anyone! Cheers!
@@josephversace5895 I had a Highlander to pull my 400. Struggled even in hilly areas, let alone a mountainous region. I bit the bullet and traded up to a Tundra. Didnt really want a truck, but towing is a breeze now.
Sarah Fink , thanks for the input/ info. So, are you even breaking double figures when towing with the Tundra? I know the EPA estimate is 13-17 mpg on that. If I have to get a pickup, I might just forgo the whole thing because the truck would be our primary mode of transport, and we aren't all that young anymore. In any event, with the Covid situation, we aren't traveling at all, so we have time to think things through carefully.
I used a combination WDH and ant-sway when I used my Highlander. Now that I have a F150 I'm actually not sure. I've towed it without either and it seems find, but I like the security of a sway bar myself. So, I might figure out how to use my WDH as simply a sway control bar since I don't really need it to level the vehicle. Or, I may just buy a sway bar. Bottom line - I don't really think I need it, but I like being as safe as possible. Cheers and thanks for watching!
@@oldcootcamper Your towing speed and the weight distribution(the way you loadthe camper) are the two main factors as to whether sway is an issue. I towed my Casita ( 55 to 60 MPH )to Nova Scotia and back to NC with an F150 using anti-sway bar and WDH with no problems. I wasn't aware at the time about distributing weight properly when loading the camper although we traveled very light.-no water on board. After the trip I stopped using the WDH but I did continue the Anti-sway Bar. I could not tell the difference. Like everything else regarding safety and gut comfort you have to suit yourself.
@@williambranham6249 Couldn't agree more. And over the years, we become more knowledgeable about safety and our own comfort level. I still use the WHD with integrated sway control mainly because I'm used to it and feel comfortable - and I like the fact that with my setup, I don't have to disengage the sway control when I back up. Thanks for watching. Cheers!
Not yet actually. I'm planning on heading out west next spring for my first really long camping trip and some disbursed camping is on the agenda for sure. Thanks for watching. Cheers!
You got Nu Camp to respond to your e mails? I ve tried several times to see about getting a replacement door key for my 400. No response. I wish they would just let me know if it cant be done instead of ignoring me. Might be time for an Airstream!!!
Actually I've never not gotten a quick response from Nucamp - so quite surprised you're having an issue honestly. What email address are you using? Thanks for watching and reaching out.
I have the same year and unit and installed the victron. You don’t have to remove the battery cover. Attach the shunt at the junction box where the leads from the battery attach This is the small square covered box to the right of the battery. Unscrew the cover to expose the terminals. You will have to purchase a 12 inch battery cable to complete the circuit. After the negative side, attach the shunt power lead to the positive post in the junction box. If you do it, it’s probably a good time to hit Harbor Freight for a $19 load tester to see how your batteries are doing.
Thanks James. I'll take another look at this. Do you have a picture of your set up by chance? I"m not very good at these things. Appreciate the help for sure and thanks for watching.
Very good video, I am getting to tackle the battery box removal. We purchased this 2018 TAB 400 in November and so far am not impressed on working on any of the electrical systems- , everything is hard to get too and I’m discovering the hard way. I still do not know what kind of battery I have. We upgraded from a 2010 tab which was super easy to work on. Anyway, more discovery’s to come.
Good luck. Yup, some of it is certainly a challenge! Thanks for watching. Cheers!
Good video. Thanks. I would more than likely have attempted to get to the battery for rewire but it definitely looked like quite a challenge.
Yeah, I gave up a bit o soon. I"m going to give it a go this year. Thanks for watching. Cheers!
@@oldcootcamper Got that...maybe just do a little boondocking first; no rush. I really like the tab 400.
New Friends here from Georgia. Camper reviews and Modifications are all ways good to do.
They sure are although sometimes my level isn't all that level if you know what I mean! Thanks for watching.
You seem like a very nice guy. I appreciate your making videos. All that said, you need to get a ruler. I am not going to be able to sleep tonight knowing that the right pull handle on the drawer is lopsided. :)
Yeah, I noticed that but it's actually only off by about 1/8 of an inch, not even. It looks worse than it is because of the angle of the camera. My template was a tad off. LOL. But it's more accurate than the eyeball attempt at the paper towel holder. LOL. Thanks for watching.
@@oldcootcamper I really do appreciate the videos. I hope that time and interest allow for your to do more.
@@nathanshiba6866 Me too!
I did hear your (old coot) disclaimer early on that you're not a perfectionist. So if you are happy with the mounting then I'm O.K. and so should everyone else. I'm a perfectionist by nature so it's difficult for my wife and me to project together. Interestingly enough her projects turn out well and in less time than my projects. We can't help who we are but I am aware so I accept it. Good job BTW.
I did some projects on my small camper and I don't do well in tight spaces(claustrophobia) . They weren't perfect. Like you I tend to avoid those sorts of projects but I won't pay $300 either.
Are you boondocking a lot and relying solely on solar? I ask because we’ve done a bit in our 400 and the app has worked for us. I do think nucamp should put some form of hard wired solar monitoring on the BDL packages, but I’m not ready to pull the trigger and drop the $$$ for that monitor. As mentioned we’ve made some long trips with our 400 and here are a few things we’ve done.
Built a thin aluminum shelf for under the table to hold my MacBook.
Coat rack attached to the panel under the table (where the usb and ac plug are. Will hold 4-additional pairs of shoes out of the way.
To the comments on appropriate TW. We pull with a Jeep Grand Cherokee V6 without issue. We do use a sway bar and electronic braking system installed after purchasing the 400. We also installed the 7” Furrion camera and have Tire Pressure Monitoring sensors on the 400 tires. Did quite a bit of reading on TV and one common thread I saw was get a factory installed tow package. Depending on your vehicle, coming from the factory the vehicle’s transmission, coolant system, etc., could be better suited for towing in comparison to getting an after market tow package. Safe travels
In reality, I've done more "testing" of boondocking than actually doing it. I bought that Victron monitor right after I got the Tab after watching a few videos about how. you really need one, but now, two full season in (without having actually installed the monitor) I think you're right - I can convert voltage shown on the Victron app to % charged so I don't think you need it. But, I might still go ahead and install it...well....just cuz I hate to admit defeat on this thing!
Great Mod ideas. I might put a few shelves in the closet, but not sure I need those.
Regarding the TV, since I made that video and after a long discussion with my wife (who basically didn't like me using her HIghlander as our TV) I traded in my sedan for an F150- Lariat and was able to tow 2x with it so far. I didn't use either a WDH or sway bar, and on one day the cross wind was probably 35mph + and I didn't have an issue - still, I might use the E2 fast hitch WDH/sway control I was using before, simply because even the F150 gets a little squat when hooked up - not much, and less than 1/4" difference on the front end, but better safe than sorry!
Thanks for watching! Cheers!
The Victron battery monitor was a great addition to my TAB 320. Sorry to hear it is such a PITA to install in your 400. The $300 installation estimate from the dealer is certainly a ripoff. I agree, the battery monitor is very useful, but not worth that much !!!
I've lived without it without an issue for a while, but then again I've not done any real boondocking. I'm going to give it another go soon.
Thanks for watching. Cheers!
Old Coot, you do not need to access the battery itself. The little square box in front (left of battery box) with the large and small wires coming out if it, is the battery distribution box. Inside this easy to get to box, are the positive and negative wires from the battery and the trailer wiring connections to the battery. All you need to do is disconnect the large negative battery cable, and put your battery monitor shunt between the battery negative cable and the distribution box. You will need a short (or ling enough cable) to go from the shunt back to the distribution box where the batter negative cable was attached, same size as the negative battery cable (AWG no 8 or 6). You can mount the shunt on the inside front of the area next to the battery. Now you can route the physical monitor or leave it in the bunk storage area, and use the WiFi app to see the settings, and Bob’s your uncle...
cheers
@@alholston-smith7631 Well heck, I'll have to take a peek at that!
Thanks!
Yes, not that difficult. You can also connect rhe small red battery + connection for the Shunt on the junction box
The large white cable going from the battery box to the junction box is the negative connection from the battery. Good luck
Cheers
Ugh . . . needing to change our batteries and I'm pretty sure we've got the same model year. Have you found your way into that black box?
Lol. I've not, but only because I haven't gotten around to it. I think if I really need to get in there I"m just going to have to suck it up and start by unscrewing the protective "hosing" that goes along the outside of it and see where that gets me.
If you get to it, good luck and let me know how it goes. Thanks for watching!
@@oldcootcamper . . . haha . . . it was a challenge, but we got in. Now on to installing new batteries . . . yay! Happy Camping :-)
@@LoriAAndrus Excellent!
Go boondocking! Go to National Forest land. That’s what we did on our first trip. We have the 400 boondock also.
Thanks Joe. The biggest issue right now, frankly, is time. I'm retiring in September and it seems my company needs more of my time than ever as we struggle to deal with the Pandemic. But I only have three months to go!
They pack a lot of stuff into a small space. Always easier to do that during construction than after-market.
Question: I am seriously considering a Tab400 BL but the tongue wt scares me because I once had and do not want a truck as a tow vehicle. I see you appear to use a Highlander. I also like a couple of other SUVs capable of towing up to 5K lbs, like the Highlander. Have you found the Highlander capable and is there a lot of auto transmission downshifting to keep power up? And given the tongue wt, did you add air shocks since a weight distribution hitch is not recommended for tow vehicles built on car frames? Thanks.
Joe
Ahh, the ever present tongue weight question. Seems there's as many answers as questions.
First, I did not add air shocks but do have a WHD. I added the WDH after discussing this with both the folks who created the hitch I selected - the E2 hitch by Fastway, my installer, and Toyota - since my best friend is the GM of a Toyota dealership and has direct access to their technical folks. It made a big difference. However.......
While the Highlander tows Ok, the combination of the tongue weight and the weight of the WDH itself really puts you at the limit of the Highlander's maximum tongue weight - meaning anything you want to put in the back of the Highlander needs to be pretty light, or in front of the axles. Also interestingly I found that because the fresh water tank is behind the axle, driving with this full takes weight off tongue.
Honestly, the Highlander wasn't my preferred choice, it was a compromise vehicle. I'll be retiring soon and trading in my Sedan for a truck, which I prefer and then my wife has the Highlander all to herself. I think if you're generally towing in more or less flat areas, you're ok. I'm in Wisconsin and really don't have any issues. The vehicle doesn't hunt for gears. That said, I would never use the Highlander to tow in mountains (east or west). I think the Jeep has over a 6,000lb towing capacity and 600lb tongue weight - might be a better choice -or the 4Runner, which is rated at 5,000lbs but built on their truck frame.
I think you can find an SUV that's a bit heftier than the Highlander.
Good luck and thanks for watching!
Thanks for the info. I have been thinking along the same lines-- i.e. that most SUV's with a 5K towing limit would be about at the max line for that trailer. I am not a big Jeep fan, but short of a pickup, it may be the best option. My wife prefers an SUV for its convenience when traveling. We had an F150 4x4 but that sat high and when not towing (most of the time), it was a beast to get in and out of, not to mention 17mpg. Unless I can talk her into something like a Tacoma (not likely), Grand Cherokee here I come.
Btw, I like your non-judgmental, down to earth presentations.
@@josephversace5895 I'm sure you'll pick the right vehicle for you. Thanks for the compliment. I'm pretty much a camping by travel trailer newbie - so I'm the last person to pass judgement on anything or anyone! Cheers!
@@josephversace5895 I had a Highlander to pull my 400. Struggled even in hilly areas, let alone a mountainous region. I bit the bullet and traded up to a Tundra. Didnt really want a truck, but towing is a breeze now.
Sarah Fink , thanks for the input/ info. So, are you even breaking double figures when towing with the Tundra? I know the EPA estimate is 13-17 mpg on that. If I have to get a pickup, I might just forgo the whole thing because the truck would be our primary mode of transport, and we aren't all that young anymore. In any event, with the Covid situation, we aren't traveling at all, so we have time to think things through carefully.
We just got a Tab 400 boondock. Towed with a Tacoma. Do you use an anti sway bar? If so what type?
I used a combination WDH and ant-sway when I used my Highlander. Now that I have a F150 I'm actually not sure. I've towed it without either and it seems find, but I like the security of a sway bar myself. So, I might figure out how to use my WDH as simply a sway control bar since I don't really need it to level the vehicle. Or, I may just buy a sway bar.
Bottom line - I don't really think I need it, but I like being as safe as possible.
Cheers and thanks for watching!
@@oldcootcamper Your towing speed and the weight distribution(the way you loadthe camper) are the two main factors as to whether sway is an issue. I towed my Casita ( 55 to 60 MPH )to Nova Scotia and back to NC with an F150 using anti-sway bar and WDH with no problems. I wasn't aware at the time about distributing weight properly when loading the camper although we traveled very light.-no water on board. After the trip I stopped using the WDH but I did continue the Anti-sway Bar. I could not tell the difference.
Like everything else regarding safety and gut comfort you have to suit yourself.
@@williambranham6249 Couldn't agree more. And over the years, we become more knowledgeable about safety and our own comfort level. I still use the WHD with integrated sway control mainly because I'm used to it and feel comfortable - and I like the fact that with my setup, I don't have to disengage the sway control when I back up.
Thanks for watching. Cheers!
Have you tried dispersed camping?
Not yet actually. I'm planning on heading out west next spring for my first really long camping trip and some disbursed camping is on the agenda for sure.
Thanks for watching. Cheers!
@@oldcootcamper great. I just got the tab 400 2022. Been camping twice.
@@michelleosborne8951 Emjoy!
You got Nu Camp to respond to your e mails? I ve tried several times to see about getting a replacement door key for my 400. No response. I wish they would just let me know if it cant be done instead of ignoring me. Might be time for an Airstream!!!
Actually I've never not gotten a quick response from Nucamp - so quite surprised you're having an issue honestly. What email address are you using?
Thanks for watching and reaching out.
I’ve had a reply with 24-hours. Are you using the tech email address? It goes to Creed their tech rep.