I appreciate you doing all this for us mere mortals. I've been a hot rodder for years (40+). I've always understood the importance of oil, now I'm understanding the science. Knowledge is power.
@@themotoroilgeek Please test Valvoline VR 1 Full Synthetic, and explain it to us if it’s a good choice for N/A Bbc & Sbc drag race-street/strip engines using solid lifter flat tappet & solid roller cams! Thank you so much!
I agree . I’m using Restore and Protect in the 00’ 3.0 Accord I gave my son. It’s only 61k miles but it had sat up a bit. It immediately stopped the top end noise upon start up.
@@jamessharp9790interesting because I was using Ultra Platinum in a Honda with 280k miles and my oil consumption was about 1qt every 1250 miles. I switched to Restore and Protect and I’m seeing INCREASED consumption adding 1 qt at 850 miles at first dipstick check. I’m curious to see if this will continue through the life of this oil change interval, which for me is 4500-5000 miles. Maybe Lake has some insight as to why this might occur.
I agree! I’ve been using Pennzoil UP for years and just switched to the Valvoline thanks to his previous video, and being as I’m over 160k on 3 different vehicles.
This is for the followers of TMOG. I had a lubrication question and decided to ask TMOG. Not only did I get a quick response, but a Certified Lubrication Specialist & Oil Analyst addressed my question and explained the logic behind it. I had spoken to Repair Techs, Service mangers, and even queried the manufacturer, and walked away with 0, zero useful information. Thanks guys, keep up the good work.
The Pennzoil Ultra Platinum has continually shown itself to be one of the best oils out there for many years now. This is just another example showing how good it is. I've had good luck with it running hot and hard in a supercharged mustang on road courses for years. In the summer heat I'd get oil temperatures close to 300°F and I'd feel so bad for the car but it kept coming back for more and whenever I'd tear into the motor and inspect, bearing and cylinder surfaces looked brand new.
I saw a comment in another video about the UP driving up oil temp. Poster thought that was a negative but is it possible that oil temps go up because the oil is doing a better job with heat transfer thereby taking some of that off the cooling system and keeping actual bearing surface/ring temps down? As long as the oil can "handle" it I would think it's actually a positive sign for engine life....
@@fatillacing4131 I understand your possible theory about more efficient heat transfer into the oil. My concern would be that the PUP or any oil falling too far out of grade at a 300f oil temp, whether or not that's some heat transfer situation or not. In a previous video Lake says that PUP is at the bottom range for which ever grade (30 is barely into the range to be considered a 30). When oil gets above 212f the viscosity rating can begin to go lower, a 30 goes into 20 range for example and the hotter the oil the lower the Vis grade. Additionally having the proper viscosity is vital to long engine life, more important than the additive package.
I truly appreciate the work that has gone into your research. What my takeaway from this is that no particular oil is an all around "Best" oil but rather there are oils that suit one engine better than another. For my purposes as a daily driver, I just stick to regular oil changes and have not been disappointed in over 50 years of driving.
I would really like for you to say "this is the best oil" then I could use that and be happy. Because you said it.. haha. Until then..I just change oil before recommended mileage. @@themotoroilgeek
@themotoroilgeek which oil would you recommend starting with to optimize engine life for a 2022 F150 with a 5.0L NA engine at 20k miles in coastal southern California generally operated at less than 3000 rpm, 87 octane E10 gasoline?
I used Amsoil for a long time and I love that oil. My thing is cost. Even as a prefered customer with Amsoil I still only get 2 oil changes for 120 bucks. with the penzoil I can get 3 oil changes of Ultra platinum for 70 bucks on amazon right now. And with what I have seen Penzoil Ultra platinum is 90 percent what Amsoil is. So I switched and could not be happier. I love Amsoil but that oil is to exspensive.
Nah...oil is the life blood of a vehicle. A couple of extra bucks every oil change ain't enough to keep me from feeding it the best I can find. If it's a car you plan on keeping long term, saving money on oil never makes sense to me. Long term, quality oil pays for itself...That goes for all fluids, really.
@@charliesmith8511 Thing is, it doesn't matter. Sure, Amsoil is great, but using PUP or something similar off the shelf is going to get you exactly the same results for 1/3 the cost. If the Amsoil engine goes 600k miles and the PUP engine goes 550k, does it matter when the car is in the scrap yard before 300k? I used to be die hard Amsoil, cancelled my preferred account and switched everything over to off the shelf stuff. Guess what, everything runs perfectly as expected and the cost is less than half.
@@themotoroilgeek Hi, we hear most wear at startup. Can you test how long an oil film will stay on the cylinder wall when engine is not used? 1 day? 1 week? 1 month? 1 year? thanks
It was you that converted me from Super Tech to Valvoline. Seeing what they do to test their oils gave me confidence is using their oil for the first time
I did the same. Was using penzoil in my jeep, Castrol in my accord, and shell rotella in my VW. Now I have valvoline oil change boxes and it takes up much less space even though each car has its own box.
@@liampritchard2853 nah that's elitist talk. oil is oil and it comes from the same place and replacing it frequently is vastly more important than whatever you happen to put in.
Found out about how good Mobil ESP is on BITOG forums. Switched to the 5W-30 ESP and do oil analysis every oil change and results have been outstanding. Extremely low wear metals. Not sure if it's possible to get any lower. I'm happy with it.🤙
@@singular9interesting.... I'm running it in all my vehicles now. 2022 Subaru Crosstrek, 2000 GMC Sierra 2500 & 2006 Chevy Express 3500 van. All outstanding results with very low wear metals.
I tried the ESP, made my car's engine sound a pre-90's diesel engine and wear metals went way up. Sad because I really wanted it to work. As soon as I changed it out all the excessive engine noise disappeared. Thinking that I may have just picked the wrong version for my car, I also tried the regular full synthetic and the AFE versions, but very similar results. Good to know that at least some people have good results from it though.
I love this channel! Commenting just to drive up engagement. Really like the emphasis on the double flush for these test. Absolute truth. Amsoil and the newly popular Prolube oil additive test would make for some high click videos. Thanks Lake!
Ran a 1100 cc FIRE engine with Castrol Magnatec 10W40. When the car went to get Stage 1 owner of the shop asked me which oil I used (?). Castrol Magnatec. He was noticeable surprised and said '...because at 120000 km the grooves of factory honing are still clearly visible!'. Well that surprised me as well.
Hello Lake, I'm a lucky european owner of an e46 M3. If you don't already know, choosing THE right oil for this masterpiece is a headache ! BMW recommends 10w60, but when you know its problems with connecting rod bearings, "connoisseurs" recommend 5w30, 5w50... In short, the entire community of M3 drivers is waiting for you like a savior and cheering you with one voice: Lake, you are our man ! Please enlighten us ! By the way, I live on an island located in the Indian Ocean (very high humidity, outside temperatures between 20 and 35 degrees Celsius). I don't drive much (3000 miles every 2 years, made up of trips of around 100 miles), and I systematically carry out oil analyzes at each oil change, with different oils (Castrol, Yacco, Motul - I can send you the existing reports). What a great idea for videos, worthy of a series such as the Young and the Restless or Dynasty ! ;-)
Thank you for the great information. Penzoil 0 - 40 Platinum is factory recommended for my 392 CI hemi and your analysis confirms what FCA strongly recommends for this particular engine.
Thank you for sharing another informative video Lake Speed Jr. I've been using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum since it was released originally as Pennzoil Ultra. Definitely the best oil on the market for using in my 6.2L V8 engines, in my opinion. I know people love Amsoil Signature Series, but I refuse to over-pay for it. Many DO NOT realize that all Amsoil is, is ExonnMobil synthetic base stock, mixed with Lubrizol base stock, then them adding additives. Granted it does test well on Project Farm etc. However, value for your money, I still choose to continue using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, cheers!
Project Farm is a total joke. They tried to claim that WD-40 was a better penetrating oil than PB Blaster when the intended purpose of WD-40 is displacing water, hence the WD in its name. I blocked Project Farm after that.
@@donreinke5863 I have felt a large amount of his testing, particularly around automotive products is definitely incorrect in many respects. Appreciate your opinion, thanks.
@@nakoma5 His "testing" is bogus. Ive been in automotive repair for 52 years and encountered hundreds of corroded/seized fasteners. PB Blaster and Aerokroil are by FAR the best penetrants. We used WD-40 to dry out ignition components after washing engines, and it works very well for that, but NOT as a penetrant.
YASSSS, the motor oil god has answered my prayer. I really love this video! After watching all of the other videos on additives, detergents, oil breakdown, and how base oil affects your motor oil, I think this video really takes it all and puts it together for you to understand how all these variables in your oil affect your engine. Truly amazing work! I really love the content. I just bought a new CX-5, and I’m using all this to have a longevity protocol for my car. This content is very valuable. You're a god amongst men sir.
Just discovered your channel, absolutely amazing video, knowledge and quality, subscribed and can't wait to see more, I am currently running 5W-30 AMSOIL Sig. Series in my 07 Roush, used to run Mobil 1 before, have been told to run Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. I used to have a dislike for Pennzoil due to misinformation I was taught in my early automotive years but now I am wanting to test all 3 and see what my car likes best! My main issue now is the price of AMSOIL and its availability, but to get Ultra Plat or a Supercar Mobil or equivalent is also hard to find and usually needs ordered online so now it really comes down to price and wear protection, I will pay the premium for AMSOIL if the results show better though.
Have been waiting for your analysis of the Mobil 1 0W40 Supercar oil. Look forward to the follow-up vid. Congrats on a well-deserved over 100,000 subs 🎉
LIke he said in the video, more like the old 0w-40. Higher ZDDP but also higher Calcium. So I don't think I'd be using it in a newer Supercar which are all D.I. motors nowadays like most everything else. Or any D.I. Motor.
@@matttl903 It's a fact that there is low speed pre ignition with Higher Calcium oils. Recognized by Motor Oil experts and the SAE & API. Whether or not it is fully recognized by GM over the money they are getting paid for by Mobil who knows. It's not like the newer GM engines haven't had their reliability failures. They've had their Engine failures already with some C8's, current Transmission recall, overheating. A great overall car with some Engineering shortcomings though.
Any information on the Amsoil Signature series oil? Have a 24 Mustang and I want to put the best option. I use to be a big mobil1 and Schaffers fan until I started watching these videos recently.
Please explain and test race, API and small engine oils to see which is best for air cooled small engines. No one ever talks about the best oils for mowers and pumps and generators and power equipment!
that because it doesn't really matter, the quality of the internals of those motors is so low that they wear out regardless of oil used. I've found the most important thing at the moment to be just doing a proper break in on those motors to prevent them from burning oil and cross contaminating combustion vapour in oil
Thank you for all the hard work that goes into these videos, Lake! Have you considered doing a video on the Mobil1 ESP line of oils? They appear to have interesting chemistries. The ESP 0W-30 is now available at Walmart at a great price and might have a decent amount of ester in it. Would love to hear your analysis!
That’s funny, project farm did a great video as well, and I’ve been using Pennzoil ultra platinum. Amsoil performed a bit better overall, but it was so similar to the Pennzoil for so much cheaper. I can usually find a Pennzoil ultra platinum for pretty cheap at Walmart and now it’s all I run in my jaguar XF 5.0 my Jetta 2.5, and then my Ford fusion sport. Excellent oil👌💯
@@nicholasbabeaux2052 we just flushed all the fluids on a ‘17 Jaguar Ford 3.0 V6 supercharged engine. One owner very well maintained but he sold it. We switched the new owner over to Valvoline Clean and Restore 0-20w. We’re going to follow this vehicle over the next 3-4 oil changes to determine any changes. Other than tearing the engine apart, we just want to see if the owner notices any differences in performance (fuel consumption, oil consumption)
@@nicholasbabeaux2052 Pennzoil did great, all except for the wear test, which was a ways behind Amsoil, but I’m not sure how much that test correlates to real world engine life.
@jamram9924 those engines, man they do have a lot of issues. I love Jaguars, there are modern Jaguars that are reliable. But that 3.0 is not. The 3.0 duratec that was a Jaguar engine was very reliable I had one of those LMAO So the 3.0 supercharged is actually a pzev engine. If you live in a Pzev state there are so many items that are covered under warranty for that car. The list of covered items is surprisingly long. Most people do not know of the extended 15 year 150,000 mile warranty.
@@nicholasbabeaux2052 I understand this engine was developed in partnership with Mazda (part of the AJ family), but under Ford ownership, which explains why it was used in a variety of different vehicle applications from one brand to the next. This engine, which shares several components with the Duratec 25 engine. In researching online, Ford 3.0L Duratec 30 engine received many technological firsts for its time thanks to inputs from Porsche and Cosworth. As far as the emissions, they’re all Ford and through a shop many of those components can be purchased directly from Ford using Ford parts since many of the parts have part numbers from Ford. It saves the customer a lot of money as opposed to purchasing them from Jaguar. I read that many of the parts like an aluminum engine block and cylinder heads were all standard, as well as cylinders lined with cast iron and a sequential fuel injection system, as well as fracture-split forged powder metal connecting rods and an assembled cast aluminum intake manifold. The differential is all Ford as well as the transmission however we were told it was used in Ford Mondeos in Europe. It has a gorgeous interior but I am concerned about the heavy use of digital dashboard and a variety of sensors that will most likely come from Jaguar when they time comes to replace. I haven’t seen a European cars with affordable electronics or modules. Thank for the information. I’ll keep that in mind since this car only has 72,000 miles and very well maintained.
@@ChicagoRob2 Lake addressed this when I asked him. Notice he doesn't get into cold pour tests. His comment to me was that pumping is different than pouring. I'm in the same climate as Chicago (northern NY).
Since he is reinforcing how specific oils work in specific vehicles, he'd likely recommend you use one (after a double drain), get an analysis done, then repeat with the other oil. Note also that I asked him if Penn High Mileage would work similarly to R&P and his response was "RP is in a league of its own".
@@themotoroilgeekit would be great if you were able to address the myth that a heavier operating viscosity within reason can harm an engine. So many people claim engines are tighter and a 30 or 40 grade will blow up their 20 spec engine but I don’t see any evidence this is true. Surely the viscosity of even the thin oils when cold is much higher than the thick oil operating viscosity or HTHS difference.
I used the exact same Pennzoil, in my 2016 Nissan Rogue. My commute through the country is always exactly the same, day after day. I go the speed limit, cruise control, so i am totally consistent. before, with the top of the line Mobile 1, I was getting 6.7 L/100km. after changing to Pennzoil, it dropped to 6.1L/100km and stayed there. My car should be getting 7.1L/100km from factory. That is a massive difference. If I drive very smoothly without cruise control on the highway I can usually get 5.3L/100km. One day after leaving work at 2am, roads are completely quiet so I pushed it and totally wanted to see what I could ring out of it for milage. I ended up averaging 3.9L/100km. Amazing stuff. Amazing difference! With my Nissan cube, the best I ever did with a 40 mile / 70km trip was down to 3.5L/100km. That's going around 68km/h which I found to be the sweet spot for my car.
I found a “verified customer of Amsoil” ("Mugenizer" from Vancouver, Canada, gender unknown), who wrote a complimentary-email to Amsoil back in April, 2024 claiming not only a 9.2% Increase in Fuel Economy while using Amsoil Signature Series Motor Oil (after using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Motor Oil), but "Mugenizer" also experienced less ticking sounds coming from "Mugenizer's" engine’s lifters and crankcase, along with a smoother-running engine (resulting from the use of Amsoil), as well! I have copied and pasted "Mugenizer's" story in the next paragraph, where we can reasonably calculate how many miles we should expect "Mugenizer's" to save a gallon of gas, along with the surprising amount of gallons of gas (25.23 gallons, x $4.00 a gallon= $100.92) saved over the course of a typical 5,000 mile Pennzoil oil-change timeframe (where the "net savings" of Amsoil are much more than the initial cheaper price of Pennzoil), which is hereinafter more fully explained, as follows: From the Amsoil Website Concerning Comments from Verified Customers of Various Amsoil Products: "5 star rating WOW! UNEXPECTED RESULTSBy MUGENIZER, a Verified Buyer from Vancouver on April 11, 2024: I was using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-20 Full Synthetic for my Honda Pilot 2016 exl with 261K km in it. Obvious crackcase noise & lifter noise. Fuel consumption of 12.9 liters per 100km. Now with using Amsoil Signature Series 0W-20 Full Synthetic...noise in the crankcase & lifters are a lot less. My fuel consumption is now 11.8 liters per 100km. The engine run smoother than it was. I wish i've used Amsoil ever since. Now, i use it in every vehicle i own. I highly recommend this product." Yes, you probably guessed I am an Independent Amsoil Dealer with my ID number 1420935 (also used as my Referral Code). All dealers of Amsoil (including me) are Independent Contractors, as opposed to actual employees of Amsoil. If you or any consumers wish to buy the Amsoil products as a Preferred Customer (PC), they will get the oil at a 25% discount, plus free shipping when they spend $100 (plus receiving a $5 coupon for every $100 you spend). It only costs $10 for a 6 month PC membership (or $20 a year) and there is no requirement to purchase (as there is with so many companies offering a membership for a preferred customer program, where there is an automatic shipment involved). If you or any viewers are tempted to try Amsoil, I invite you to visit the official website of Amsoil and apply to become my Preferred Customer, by kindly utilizing my Referral Number of 1420935 in the box where they ask “Have a Referral Number? Enter it below:” If you can write down my referral number, before you eventually decide to exit this webpage, it will be appreciated (so that it will be at your fingertips when you get on the official Amsoil website). You can send me (automotivebuff) an email at my gmail address if you have any questions. Thanks for the consideration!
Thanks, Lake, for the great comparison. I had an abnormally high level(70 ppm) of iron in the 5W-40 Motul 300V oil that I was running in my 370Z at about 3500 miles and so I'm experimenting with other oils. I'm currently waiting to test the 5W-30 Redline that's in it now and if that doesn't come out good I'll go to another oil, probably the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. I'd love to see a comparison of the Pennzoil with the other boutique oils, like Motul and Redline.
Driven DI30 in this video is a pretty good comparison in terms of boutique oils. Lake has mentioned previously that he thinks Motul is on the same level as Driven oils, though obviously he prefers them because he formulated them. I would say Driven DI30 and Motul 300V are some of the best you can buy and Redline is a bit antiquated.
@@darrylsjodin7184 keep in mind Signature Series is formulated for American & Asian vehicles. They have a bunch of different viscosities & SAPs levels European car oils as well.
Can we get a review of Mobil1 ESP I started running it and have been absolutely blown away by it’s performance after running it for 3k miles it still looks as clean as the day I put it in and it’s still green too😁
In this review, the most ignored the most ignored oil is the most widely used of the 3: Mobil 1 0w-40 API SP (FS-euro formula), as it has the most manufacturer approvals, including Benz, VW, BMW and Porsche. Yet, Mr. Speed says "gone is the PAO/Esther" while MSDS states 25-50% PAO. Then he says, "it's either a group 3 or a pao alkylated naphtalene, WE'LL LOOK AT IT IN A SECOND"-- and then of course he does NOT look at it, completely ignores this oil for the rest of the video. Pnz UltraPlat 0w-40 which doesn't have ANY German man.approvals is compared to M1 Supercar with only Porsche C40 approval, not even the A40 approval for mainstream Porsches. Many Porsche techs state C40 is NOT reverse compatible with A40, even exxon-mobil website states so. The takaway from this video: You must send a virgin Mobil 1 FS 0w-40 to Mr. Speed for analysis, it is too popular of an oil for him to give away the analysis results for free. That is why he showed the results of oils that are of no interest for most owners of german cars made between 2000-2015. I have no issue with him wanting his lab to generate revenue. I do, however, take an issue with him making claims that contradict the MSDS documentation, state that he will look into it in a second, and then not do that. I think Mr. Speed jumped the gun with his comments on Mobil 1 0w-40 API SP and now he cannot make any further comments on the issue, because he 1. Either has to say "sorry guys, my assumption was wrong"--but then has to show proof why it was wrong, otherwise his commentary loses value; 2. Or he has to defend his assumption of absence of PAO/esthers by showing the spectrometer results, which may open him up for Exxon Mobil's reaction to his claim. That is why I think he won't be addressing this again.
I would love to see an entire episode on mobile 1 supercar 0w40. There are a lot of corvette and camaro owners who want to know why they need a $8 to $10/quart oil that cant be found in any local store.
@@danielk7111 Got mine from Walmart online. But Amaozon is close in price too. The normal low price is about $90 for 15 qts. That is still good compared to Amsoil.
This comment is meant to be helpful. You give a lot of good information and you are obviously knowledgeable, however your videos are hard to watch. You need to do a better job of summarizing your results. More graphics or comparison charts. Don't just show the lab spreadsheet.
Lake, Thanks for bringing up the reddish color of used oil due to the antioxidants in the oil. I noticed this on one of my vehicles at the last oil change and was more than a little concerned!
Pennzoil is my favorite and I use it in any car I change oil in. I do use Kirkland 5W-30 in my GX though, simply because it needs 8.5 quarts per change minimum and any other brand would cost close to $100 in oil.
I tested all Mobil-1 and Pennzoil and then chose Amsoil Signature Series Motor Oil because of what I saw on lab analysis reports. I'm not saying this will be everyone's result but it certainly was the superior oil for my application.
@@wally6193 We manage a fleet of vehicles in our family because my late dad was an automotive mechanic for 50 years. We aren't sold exclusively on one brand or another, we are the right oil for the right application. What I will tell you though is Amsoil suite of oils always come out better in a lot of cases and at the very least the same as shelf oils in the applications we test them in. Where they really shine is in high performance applications in the family like the Cadillac CTS V series, Dodge Hellcats etc. We always test these engines using Amsoil after a few runs as Speed advises to make sure the chemistry is established in the application and always after a healthy break-in period has commenced to be sure we are seeing accurate results. Where a "shelf oil" like Pennzoil or Mobil 1 comes up the same we use that, but where Amsoil comes up ahead we obviously use that. In my non exciting Dodge Grand Caravan family hauler I use Amsoil XL 5-30 and not the signature series because it's the absolute best oil for that application even though it spec's a 5w20 oil from Pennzoil as the recommended oil. So your results will vary but I wanted to comment here for Lake to see as he has applications requiring strong demands on engine oil like his Daughter's Toyota requiring ultra thin 0w8 and his Porsche requiring a high performance engine oil.
@@eppyz I'm not a "Amsoil is the best", I' m a "whatever is the right oil for the job based on lab results" person. In Cadillac CTS V-Series and Dodge Hellcat Signature Series Amsoil seems to perform better than shelf oils like Pennzoil an M1. It's just what I've seen in lab reports...
@@CedroCron That's fair. As long as your not using markers like TBN as a deciding marker. Different Engines do require different additive packs as shown in this video, but higher contents of certain additives do not mean its "better" either. It takes time, and numerous tests to determine. With that said, I used Redline Race oils in my race cars and never had an engine failure in the 12 years of racing with said oil, so does that mean Redline is better? It really comes down to many factors, but if your happy with Amsoil and it suits your needs that's awesome.
amazing work as always! i love your channel and I’d be interested to see a comparison between shell rotella t6 15w40 (which is a diesel engine oil), valvoline vr1 20w50 and a motorcycle specific 15w40 or 15w50. the reason being is a lot of people run rotella t6 in their motorcycles, it’s even certified for JASO MA2, which is needed for wet clutch bikes i think. i know a lot of people also run rotella in the older high performance engines such as nissan’s sr20det, rb25det, subaru’s FJs and many other gasoline engines, even though the oil is meant for diesel trucks. one point of contention is rotella doesn’t have the same anti foaming properties compared to something like vr1 which is especially crucial in motorcycle since they easily rev past 10k rpm.
Can you do a similar analysis of what is best for direct injection daily drivers? I have my first DI car (NA) and because of the years of good reviews on Platinum, I put that in. But just as I did that, the new Restore and Protect came out which also sounds good due to extra cleaning. With my older engines and Mobil 1 0W40, I never had any wear nor cleanliness issues. Now I not only need low wear, but also more cleaning and more pre ignition protection. Thank you for the great info you provide!
Just be sure to run a SP rated oil. That's the latest spec and it is for LSPI issues. I believe all the OW40 oils (and more) are now SP rated. Remember too the DI/turbo engines are harder on the oil so you don't want extended OCI's. I have three DI/turbo engines and I do 3,000 mile OCI's. Some other do 5,000 miles, which is ok too.
I can't answer your question but, DI = Direct Injection and NA = Normally Aspirated! I bought my wife a low mileage 38k Malibu 2015 placed in service by GM regional service manager V6 - 6speed fleet. Over 35+ years I hate the automatic stop / restart so am buying a 3 quart accumulator wired to start / cranking only. I prefer what ever brands or additive package is good enough to shove oil into this engines galleys to be full out or near allowing pressure to be there near immediately. It "Rubs" me the wrong way while pickup has an off switch and a car doesn't. I just want that! I don't like it, I hate it! If I could find PCM terminals from truck to car, I would supply it with ground, B+, or open to shut it off. Lord take mercy on my starters pinion and flex plate.
There isn't going to be much difference in choosing an oil for a DI vs a port injection. Gas is much more important factor as poor gas quality would increase carbon deposits on DI
I've done 4 of your videos now and feel much more confident regarding "zink" for my hot rod engine and "general oil information" for my daily drivers. Thanks.
I changed my vehicles oil for Penn Ultra after his last video and I have no complaints so far. Only problem, I cant find that oil anywhere in local stores.
Thank you SO MUCH for your in depth lab tested results! Your vids are unmatched with REAL PROOF!! Your the reason I researched & switched to the Pennzoil Platinum Series. I have always used Valvoline & it is still a great oil. There is a difference between great & superior. The Pennzoil Platinum Series of oils are just superior in my opinion. And yea.....please fill your new oil filter with oil before installing! Lake Speeds test have PROVEN it matters!
@@themotoroilgeek --- No thank you! Not to overshadow years of professional mechanics knowledge but nothing beats that knowledge AND lab results to go with it. Unbeatable pair!
30 year mechanic here. I’m not a proponent of filling oil filters before installation due to the fact that anything that gets in the filter goes straight to the bearings. A small unseen piece of foil seal could really wreck your day. Starting an engine after an oil change is really no different than starting it on a cold winter morning. With the long oil change intervals on modern engines a person is only “dry starting” an engine twenty or thirty times in its lifetime. I will pre- fill filters when the service information directly calls for it.
Whether you pre-fill the filter or not, crap can get in there regardless. You're not minimizing that chance by not pre-filling them. All you're doing is guaranteeing extra wear through dry start ups.
@@MarkMarbach-ff4si Right...but the chance of some debri getting in there is the same whether you fill it with oil or not. Sooo...might as well fill it with oil. Because the potential extra engine wear from dry starts is guaranteed, the debri is not. If you're worried about that debri coming from the oil container...then it still has the same chance of going in the engine when you pour the oil. So what are we talking about? None of that is an excuse not to pre-fill the filter. Just pay attention to what you're doing, and work clean.
@@MarkMarbach-ff4siAlso oil that you pour on top isn't guaranteed to go through the filter before it hits the engine. Where did you get that from? So many modern vehicles have you pour the oil directly into the valve cover, or somewhere similar. It then drains down through the engine into the pan. It doesn't go directly into the pan first.
Oil or contaminants that is poured into the valve cover will either run to the pan and then be filtered before sent to the oil galleries under pressure or it will lay on top of the head and float around. This debris will not cause an issue because there isn’t any way it will end up in a close tolerance space (bearings). If contaminants are in the core of the oil filter they are assured of being pumped to the bearings under pressure. A lot of vehicles have horizontal filters where you can’t fill them anyway. I wouldn’t worry about tho or three seconds without oil pressure on the gauge. As I said in my initial post it’s no different than a cold morning start in the winter at 0 degrees.
Thanks for explaining the red color in your engine oil. The Amsoil I use leaves a similar color "substance" behind in the catch can. Good to know that it's just a type of anti-oxidant.
Wonderful details, but I'd like to point out a missing market/audience for you. People on the Autism spectrum (and other neurodivergent people like with ADHD) often have problems processing spoken/voice information. I don't know the monetization details here, but text based tables/charts with this information would be appreciated by many people. Meaning good/bad combinations of chemistry, and what each product is/has since the manufacturer doesn't advertise those details to typical customers. And there is a reason we're all here (appreciate you sharing your experience and knowledge!).
Neurodivergent... The medical establishment has really done a number on you... Perhaps if spoken word is too hard, you shouldn't be out on the roads... Maybe we don't want a bunch of "neurodivergent" people behind the wheel.... This coddling of mental illness and weakness needs to stop...
@themotoroilgeek I have a 2015 Toyota Tundra with 97,000 miles. Would Pennzoil Platinum High Miles or Pennzoil Ultra be better? Thank you for the channel and all the science behind oil. We're all getting an education thanks to you!
I have used Mobil 1 for many years in many cars and I am very happy with it. At 211k miles on my 2003 CRV that I bought new I had a Honda technician check out my car and he said the engine was immaculate inside. So I know my oil is perfectly fine. I want to try Amsoil but it is expensive and not readily available like Mobil 1 so I am sticking with it.
I found a “verified customer of Amsoil” ("Mugenizer" from Vancouver, Canada, gender unknown), who wrote a complimentary-email to Amsoil back in April, 2024 (filed chronologically under "Product Reviews") claiming not only a 9.2% Increase in Fuel Economy while using Amsoil Signature Series Motor Oil (after using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Motor Oil), but "Mugenizer" also experienced less ticking sounds coming from "Mugenizer's" engine’s lifters and crankcase, along with a smoother-running engine (resulting from the use of Amsoil), as well! I have copied and pasted "Mugenizer's" story in the next paragraph, where we can reasonably calculate how many miles we should expect "Mugenizer's" to save a gallon of gas, along with the surprising amount of gallons of gas (25.23 gallons, x $4.00 a gallon = $100.92) saved over the course of a typical 5,000 mile Pennzoil oil-change timeframe (where the "net savings" of Amsoil are much more than the initial cheaper price of Pennzoil), which is hereinafter more fully explained, as follows: From the Amsoil Website Concerning Comments from Verified Customers of Various Amsoil Products: "5 star rating WOW! UNEXPECTED RESULTSBy MUGENIZER, a Verified Buyer from Vancouver on April 11, 2024: I was using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-20 Full Synthetic for my Honda Pilot 2016 exl with 261K km in it. Obvious crackcase noise & lifter noise. Fuel consumption of 12.9 liters per 100km. Now with using Amsoil Signature Series 0W-20 Full Synthetic...noise in the crankcase & lifters are a lot less. My fuel consumption is now 11.8 liters per 100km. The engine run smoother than it was. I wish i've used Amsoil ever since. Now, i use it in every vehicle i own. I highly recommend this product." Yes, you probably guessed I am an Independent Amsoil Dealer with my ID number 1420935 (also used as my Referral Code). All dealers of Amsoil (including me) are Independent Contractors, as opposed to actual employees of Amsoil. If you or any consumers wish to buy the Amsoil products as a Preferred Customer (PC), they will get the oil at a 25% discount, plus free shipping when they spend $100 (plus receiving a $5 coupon for every $100 you spend). It only costs $10 for a 6 month PC membership (or $20 a year) and there is no requirement to purchase (as there is with so many companies offering a membership for a preferred customer program, where there is an automatic shipment involved). If you or any viewers are tempted to try Amsoil, I invite you to visit the official website of Amsoil and apply to become my Preferred Customer, by kindly utilizing my Referral Number of 1420935 in the box where they ask “Have a Referral Number? Enter it below:” If you can write down my referral number, before you eventually decide to exit this webpage, it will be appreciated (so that it will be at your fingertips when you get on the official Amsoil website). You can send me (automotivebuff) an email at my gmail address if you have any questions. Thanks for the consideration!
Been using pennzoil platinum euro blend on the old merc for years, best stuff ever and very affordable considering I need 8.5L at a time... wallymart carries it, and I just subscribe to it, so when it arrives I know it's time for the yearly oil change. 😉
I wonder how the the Pennzoil 0W-40 Euro Formula compares to the Ultra 0W-40. Just curious since only the Euro formula only has the Mercedes 229.5 certification whereas the Ultra doesn't.
Came here for this. That said, I don't think 229.5 is anything very exotic. I have seen plenty of good oil analysis results in M157 applications with oils that aren't 229.5. My cynical translation for 229.5 is fuel economy, emissions and the basic qualities of any good synthetic oil. I don't think it has anything too special that results in cylinder wall protection, or some of the other wear issues we may care about. Actually, I run Liquimoly Molygen 5W-40 in my M157 which is actually NOT officially 229.5 approved, only "recommended" (they didn't pay for the license) and I got a GREAT used oil analysis after 5,000 miles with about 104k on the engine. I am looking to fiddle around though because this is an SN formula, and I think I want something a little thicker.
@@kevin9c1 I have a M157 also. It had Mobil 1 Eurocar 0W/40 when I bought it. The calcium level was 2528 at 5100 miles. That was from a SPEEDiagnostix Oil Report. I was using Liquimoly Molygen 5w/40 and I am going to pull it out of my CLS 63S because it has very high calcium numbers from a the VOA samples posted online. Going to run the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum for a 200 mile flush. Then I am going to run it again for 3k mile and send it off to SPEEDiagnostix again.
You really are doing a service for the public Lake, thank you. Curious, I'm starting to see API SP 0/5w40 BARELY starting to hit the markets, considering API SP and GF-6A/B has been out for some years now; with the known issues of DI engines. Especially for those who don't maintain them out of just not being car enthusiasts or knowing they have to. However, for the Euro enthusiant who never goes over 5k mile oil change intervals, it's nice to finally see API SP available for 0/5w40 viscosity grades after being limited to API SN. There are only a few which includes Pennzoil however would love to get your input on API SP roll out for this viscosity. I would also ove to see a analysis between switching from LiquiMoly API SN 5w40 for almost 100k miles/life of the car from new, and then double flushing to 5w40 API SP Pennzoil. I might just have to perform this analysis on my car and get ready to send a sample in before I make the switch. Stay Fast Lake!
Hi Lake, Greetings from New Zealand. After years of using Castrol Edge 5w30 in my cars, I changed to Mobil 1 ESP 5w30. My car is a VW TDI and I've noticed improved smoothness and better fuel mileage - up to 100km more per tank. Also, the oil appears cleaner, even after 10,000km (diesels typically make oil appear black). Thanks for your educational information in every vid. Best wishes, Mat
For those who think it's not cleaning: if changed regularly - I change mine every 10,000km (6,000 miles) - the oil goes in clean and comes out slightly shaded. This means the engine is running clean, as all engine deposits have long since been removed, and the detergents in the oil are now only removing fresh contamination, as the engine is otherwise clean.
Hey Lake, amazing video as always! Very informative. I have a video idea. Could you use oil analysis to compare the filtration capability of paper vs oiled cotton air filters. There’s so much speculation out there and this discussion could really use your scientific approach. Thanks
@@shdw6662 The largest differnces isn't in wear its in reduced friction savings for gas mileage my car says 5w - 20 but do to the stupid high film strength of Amsoil I can run 0w - 16 and still get less wear PPM than 0w - 20 Penz along with better mpg. It is very close but as someone who loves every extra HP and wants my engine to last until my kids can drive it Amsoil is the best bet. Also the other big decider for me is cold crank start Aimsoil wins by 10%.
I used to use Valvoline back in the 90s because of my dad every time I tore a engine down it would be so full of sludge even engines that had nothing wrong just wanted to see how the oil was doing this was back before I started using full synthetic I ended up switching to Pennzoil on a fresh rebuild and the engine looked new still 50k later using stranded oil now with synthetic so abundant seems like there closer to the same but I still stick with Pennzoil platinum!!!!!!!
Oh wow nooo valvoline is nowhere near the level of Pennzoil. Valvoline cannot even compete with Wal-Mart brand oil. To clarify Wal-Mart oil is very good. Remember valvoline have to make thier oil at a price point that keeps their oil change services competitive. Which neans the oil itself must be bottom barrel price to make. Other oil companies don't nees to factor in oil changed locations and competitors oil change prices.
@TonicofSonic That's interesting. My mom bought a 2 year old car with 30k miles on it back in '01 ('99 Chevy Malibu 2.3 4 cylinder) My sister bought it in '07 with 130k on it. It was totaled in a fender bender in '10 with 189k. Had Valvoline semi synthetic run through it till 75k, then switched to Valvoline Max Life semi synthetic for the duration of its life. Oil was changed every 3000 miles. All servicing was performed at by Valvoline oil change franchises. A Co worker who was a car guy bought it from her because he wanted the engine to rebuild as he was a fan of the "quad 4" and had built and sold many of them. He told her it was the cleanest one he had ever disassembled. No mention of any sludge at all. Bearings only showed minor signs of wear. Just my 2 cents.
Can't help but chime in on Mobil1, I'm hesitant to use another brand because I love the Mobil1 5 quart jugs, they're designed to pour oil without spilling, on my Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV lease I use Quaker State 0W-20... it's a little cheaper than the Mobil1 but at the first oil change I noticed it was definitely NOT a Mobil1 bottle 😆. I charged the filter and oil went everywhere, I wasn't used to the way it just pours out. Obviously this isn't a good reason to choose one oil over another but I do regular driving and change my oil every 4k miles so I think just about any oil is probably good for my application. It's more important to change your oil when it needs to be changed vs. looking for a specific brand with a specific additive package but to each his own.
@@justacinnamonbun8658 Totally my thoughts on oil changes, especially being into off road bikes where I'm likely contaminating my oil with dust particles if I leave it a long time.
I run Mobil1 in a 2011 VW MK6 GTI. It has a turbo and it is considered a "hot hatch" I drive it pretty hard. It has 103k miles on it. I have had no issues with the engine. I do change the oil every 3k not 5 and certainly not 10k. Depending on how you drive (long or short distances often) and how hard you drive the vehicle will help determine if you can go 5k instead of 3k. Oil is not that expensive. If you have car ramps anyone can do an oil change in about 20 to 30 min (the longest process is waiting for the oil to stop dripping) . Those raps are like 50 bucks ... 100 bucks if you go for the really nice ones. Worth it. Basically if the oil meets manufacturer specs and you change it every 3k or 5k... your good. If you were racing it or it was modded out then it might matter a bit more due to heat and load issues. For most this is not an issue. Also break in period. Change the oil at the first 1000 miles then at 3000, and then every 3000 or 5000 thereafter. That break in oil has lost of crap in it. You want to get it out.
Hey Lake, Super relevant to your channel and something of recent discussion I think worth covering would be the new C40 GT spec that came about when the X3 M1 changed to X4 at the beginning of the year. As always, thanks for the work you do!
There was a time that I wouldnt use Pennzoil for chainsaw bar oil. We used to call it Sludgeoil and I had seen it take out many engines.Im sure it now bears no resemblance to the old Pennzoil Mobil 1 has apparently been around 50 years, I first used in in 1979. As far as Im concerned, any synthetic oil is fine in late model vehicles, and that includes Warren Oil Companys Super Tech.
Man, I've been using the SuperTech cheapo Walmart brand and a Fram filter for years. It's not that I want to. But, I don't make a ton of money and it's what I can afford. I just changed it every 4,000 miles. Have over 300,000 miles on my Armada and It's still going with that cheap oil. If I could afford the more expensive stuff I'd probably use it. But I know that as long as you change oil with the cheap stuff, it seems to work just fine.
Thank you for posting this. The most important thing is to change your oil every 5K miles or less. Doesn't matter if it's synthetic or not. Synthetic is still oil.
This is the exact video I need because I’ve been using mobile one in all my vehicles since I was a kid but I’ve seen all these videos about Pennzoil ultra platinum so I’m torn lol
I have ran Mobil1 in all my cars for years. I have never had engine issues. I don't think it matters that much ... what really matters is to half the oil interval your car manufacturer suggest. If you drive hard or have a turbo or short drives.... Every 3k. Thats it. The oils now a days is way better than just 10 years ago. I do not trust it to go 10k though. That is just asking for trouble. 2 or 3 oil changes a year max is not that much and worth being able to have a car for over 200k.
I thought your prior video on Valvoline Restore was newest oil that dissolves deposits on pistons and rings among other internals. I am skeptical of Pennzoil as when I purchased a Ford powered boat new the dealer stated they only use Valvoline lubes in their dealership and for me never to use Pennzoil. I assumed that was merely personal preference.
The guy probably heard some urban legend about Pennzoil from 50 years ago. There is no way using a Pennzoil with the current certifications could be a problem.
@@skylinefever yes, the sae certifications are the key, as this video shows different certifications means different oil. The guy that refer was a new boat dealer however and highly advised against the P brand.
Last I checked Pennnzoil doesn’t claim to CLEAN existing deposits on pistons. It claims to KEEP them CLEAN! Big difference. Most modern oils do a very poor job of cleaning baked on carbon (piston rings). Valvoline Restore & Protect can’t be compared to Pennzoil here.
Love your channel. I’ve learned a lot and find it very interesting. Please do a test on SYN3 Harley Davidson oil for all the Harley riders out there. This oil is expensive and they do not put any specs on the bottle so a person has no idea what specs it meets. Thanks for the time you invest in this.
I would love to see him talk about things like using diesel oil with correct viscosities in mowers or difference between oils with same viscosity but labeled for different type engines.
I've used PP and PUP almost exclusively since it's been released. Mobil1 was factory fill and first 4 changes on the last 3 vehicles. I find Pennzoil makes it quieter on startup and slightly improved oil pressure. (Needle width on gage). I tried Shell/Rotella "gas truck & suv". It would come out in "blood clots". Never touched it again.
On my John Deere diesel tractors, I change the oil and filter and then a week later do the process all over again. I have found doing this that the oil stays clear way longer than if I do only one oil change per interval. In my cars, I have run lately only Pennzoil because of your videos.
Lake, great info as always. I'm curious on the "forbidden glitter" found in some oils. I know it is normally a sign of bearing material and other nasties, but have you seen cerakote cause this in the oil samples you've looked at? I ran ceratek in a Macan Turbo for 2 years, and when I drained the oil, I saw the glitter every time. I pulled the pan to see if there was any notable play in the big end of the roads, but I forgot it has a dry sump. Anyways, when I pulled the pan, there was a fairly thick (1/4" in some spots) fairly hard crap in the pan. I got even more worried when I saw that so I pulled off the valve covers and even took out the cam phasers to check the screens, and there was zero visible trash in the VVT screens, and zero visible glitter on top of the head, and what I would consider perfectly normal looking cam lobes. I cleaned out the pan, put in new oil, ran it for a few miles, changed it again, still saw glitter, but less of it. Ran another 500 or so miles, changed it again, and much less glitter. I plan to take the current oil 3000-5000 miles and then send you the oil sample just to get reassurance (I am using my remaining stash of M1 Euro 0w-40, the kind I know not to run now). But I specifically mention the ceratec because I found some other anecdotal posts where others noticed the same glitter, which according to others is boron. And yep, I stopped using ceratec once I saw your additive videos...this old dog can learn new tricks!
I recall seeing posts on BITOG stating that they found Ceratec would fall out of suspension if it sat around long enough. There was math and everything to try and estimate the particle fall-out rate... based on how long it would take for certain sized particles to stop moving.. (above my pay grade lol) I've been using ceratec on my 04 cayenne turbo for the last ~50k miles. All I can say is that I noticed the motor made a tuk-tuk noise when I acquired it, at around 97k miles. After putting in ceratec, that was immediately quieted down. I know the Coyote mustang guys have noted a similar reduction in their "bbq tick" noise. The reason I chose to put in the ceratec was not so much due to the noise - but due to fears of the "bore scoring" issue that is well-documented on the cayenne v8 engines. At the time, the bore scoring data seemed to show that mostly it was the non-turbo, but that it did happen to the turbos, as well. It also seemed to be correlated with cold weather, and not changing oil on time. The oil change interval stated by porsche was I think 15k miles for the 1st gen?? I may be mistaken, and it was only 10. Anyway - the thought was that the clearance in between the piston skirt, and the cylinder wall, was incorrectly manufactured in certain engines. This caused scuffing and eventually, the scoring. Apparently, scuffing is an "extreme pressure" wear mode. Like what you'd find in a differential, or manual transmission between the gear teeth. So normal motor oils don't do very well to prevent it, but especially, the engines without oil squirters ( non -turbos) and motors where the oil was getting abused heavily were the most likely to suffer this problem. Enter people theorizing about ceratec. So from what have gathered, the ceratec contains two things that we're interested in: There's the boron, apparently in nano-sized particles of hexagonal boron nitride (HBN) which is in suspension, and there's molybdenum, in the form of ammonium molybdate, which is in solution. (Data taken from VOA on Ceratec posted on BITOG) I've seen what I believe you are referring to as the "glitter", at every oil change using the ceratec. I would more describe it as a pearl. It shines, less sparkles, and there's almost the kind of stratification or "ballooning" of different darkness-profiles of this in the oil. The oil mix is a milk-chocolate to lighter amber color, perhaps becoming almost gold or silvery. It would make sense as apparently the HBN will form mono-atomic thickness filaments under EP and heat, that will then slough-off as a sacrificial wear layer. Much like molybdenum does, but apparently with more surface hardness. So this is the supposed ceramic component, in the ceratec. At first, I was more interested in this - however I really don't have enough evidence to say that isn't snake oil. However, it's pretty proven that moly is a great anti-wear additive. The only problem is that a product like the LM MoS2 seems to have moly in suspension - and when the moly is applied, & then gets kind of "used up" like an additive package; Instead of getting picked back up and dispersed, it can accumulate in the piston ring grooves or other places. I guess it also will "drop out" if not stirred up enough, like what we're seeing presumably of the HBN in the ceratec. So the ceratec supposedly has moly in solution - meaning that when it's used up, you drain the oil and the moly comes out to be replenished at the next change without accumulating in sensitive areas. So this became more of my thought. Perhaps the boron or HBN truly does function in the ceratec but if anything it's an expensive boutique moly. One way or another, I was able to find a few UOA of the same Cayenne Turbo using ceratec in conjunction with Rotella T6 (older formulation), used in a Cayenne Turbo. I believe it was on one of the Porsche forums, rennlist or 6speed. Anyway, the UOAs reflected good wear numbers and a good TBN after ~7k miles, iirc. This coincided with my choices as typically I would change the 8.5qts and WIX filter at 6-7.5k miles. I can actually feel and hear how the engine runs worse the closer I get to that 7500 mile number. Of course, someone else's UOA does not necessarily apply to my engine.. In any case, I've taken this engine from 97k to just over 151k now, using mainly the T6 5w40 or 0w40, and utilizing 2 bottles of ceratec (!) per change. Or just a few ounces less than that. Attempting to use the Ceratec at the 6% by vol stated. Of course this is getting pretty expensive considering how much one bottle of ceratec costs, especially nowadays! I am moving away from T6 as an oil in all in my gas vehicles now, as M1 0w40 FS Euro or PUP definitely seem better. Even PP seems better, now that T6 has lost all gas certs. Subie guys have mostly gone away from the "Brotella" as well, due to the lack of anti-foaming additives for anything that revs over ~4k like a diesel. This is a whole 'nother discussion. When I'm getting close to the end of my oil change interval, I do find I've lost over 1mpg (on a vehicle that barely manages 18mpg down the highway, it's easily noticeable in the onboard fuel economy monitor). Like I said I can absolutely feel it in the engine's performance as well, the throttle response, it's willingness to just lug it's 5200lbs down the highway. It's abysmal, I feel like I am beating the poor thing to death just cruising 80mph up a mountain. It would stand to reason that the Ceratec is actually getting used up before the oil itself. Though I'm certain the oil wouldn't be good much longer, either. The times I've pushed past 7500 miles, it's almost scary how things start to feel.. (timing chain rattles especially at startup-from the tensioner presumably? Squeaking... from the chain guides? Or.. is it the bore getting destroyed??) In any case this is a very long-winded way of saying, I think that there might be more to the ceratec than Lake is currently aware of. At least when it comes to these *very* specific circumstances (the possible EP conditions existing between piston skirt and cylinder wall due to manufacturing defect). I do think that my motor was developing bore scoring before my ownership, and that the ceratec has possibly been helping to stave it off. Believe me I would truly like to stop dropping the $50-60 or more on JUST Ceratec, that would almost halve my oil change cost. More evidence to this point is that the further I push the oil, and the thinner it gets, the more likely I am to have a misfire on cold-startup. Which is 100% correlated with the bore-scoring allowing oil to enter the combustion chamber, which eventually fouls out the spark plug. After a good run on fresh oil and ceratec, the same plug seemed to be much less likely to give a misfire on that specific cylinder. I believe it's cylinder 3 or 4 on mine. Usually the bore scoring seems to happen in the rear cyls of these motors -like 7 or 8, or 3 or 4. In any case, people say that the bore scoring will progress until you are changing out plugs every thousand miles, or even less, due to the qty of oil being consumed in that cylinder. That would indicate that the motor is not long for this world, before the metals contamination and everything catches up to it, and it's basically inop. Before you say anything, I have since changed that specific plug to a new(er) NGK that I gapped correctly. One or two other cyls "asked" for new plugs and got them, but that one cylinder was absolutely my "problem child". Yes I'm a cheap bastard driving this Porsche, but when you understand the low cost of entry, and the high maintenance, you want to find ways to slow the bleed. I've swapped the Transfer case oil 3+ times in 10k just to go from silvery scary to nice red with a silvery purple in between. Luckily it only takes 1qt~ per change, but the Redline high temp D4 I used is $20+ per L. The list of things I've done to this beast is a mile long. I may be completely off base here, I have nothing to offer except anecdotal evidence and theories about extreme pressure wear and failure modes. This isn't my only vehicle, but I am finding joy in trying to run this engine for as many miles as I can. It sure is expensive, if only in fuel, brakes and tires. I'd love to drop the ceratec but honestly, I think that might be a fatal mistake. I'm sure it would be difficult to truly find evidence as to what is going on without tearing down the motor. I don't know how we could tell if the ceratec is actually helping to stave off bore scoring in this specific instance. I doubt any boroscope would help, let alone my cheap $20 one. All I know is that the science seems sound in my head and I know how my engine has acted for the last 50k. If Lake chimed in about any part of this, I would be ecstatic! Even if I could just better understand it all! :)
@the3chordwonder Also, to add on to my massive reply, the fact you found 1/4" of hardened crap in your Macan's oil pan is kind of scary. I do have that cheap boroscope I mentioned and I've been running the Ceratec for many years now. (There are vids on my channel of this Cayenne). The cayenne is a hybrid wet/dry sump apparently - I could likely stick my little boroscope inside one or the other of the Cayenne's drain holes during my next oil change. I never see anything accumulated on the bottom of the oil filter canister though, and also I tear the filters apart and look through the pleating each time. The worst I've found were some metal flakes, and one time, a very aged piece of plastic that I'd venture was a small piece of timing chain guide 😬 Perhaps I could stick the boroscope inside my valve cover via the oil filler hole, as well. In any case I think this topic warrants more exploration, even if just by at-home mad scientists like myself, if not the professionals like Lake the Motor Oil Geek here 😊
@@ShivaShakur Thank you very much, and you will find this very on point, because I have a Coyote, with the BBQ Tick, and that is how I discovered CeraTec in the first place. I also used to have a 2008 Dodge Ram with 250k miles and it sounded bad. This Macan Turbo sounds quite bad almost like it has rod knock when it is idling, but the noise goes away off idle. I think some of it is the stupid variable-vane oil pump nonsense (Thanks EPA). I do not think there is a way to disable via PIWIS, and I don't have other tuners like COBB, etc. But with the VVT setup, and dry sump system, I wouldn't be surprised if the ECU expects the oil pressures to be lower and compensates for it in tables I wouldn't know about, hence my apprehension about yanking the solenoid connector and/or trying to disable via the ECU. (On my Ecoboost F150, I do have it disabled, very easy to do and I believe it helps with the cam phaser issues with that engine). This whole ordeal stemmed from the infamous Macan timing cover oil leak, and I didn't want to do a half-(You know what) repair on it, so I basically pulled the entire front end off the suv and it gave me the opportunity to check things like the timing chain tension (Good), tensioner (Good), oil pump chain (Very difficult to tell because it is almost entirely hidden by the dry sump system, but from what I could tell, had good tension). I saw a small oil seepage from the oil pan, plus I wanted to check for big-end rod clearance, and that's why I pulled off the pan, and consequently found the sludge in the pan. I have owned it for 4 years now, and went from I think 75k miles to right around 100k. I am in a similar situation, I pay myself $0 for labor, so I'm going to keep this girl around as long as I can because I absolutely love the way it drives. The Ceretec without a doubt made all of the vehicles run quieter, and I am one that is a firm believer in the placebo effect, and am usually very skeptical about magic potions. But on the Mustang, the tick goes completely away, and the Macan gets quieter at idle. (I should note that the oil pressure is definitely within spec, confirmed the gauge with PIWIS). I rebuilt the Ram engine, and the ring lands were stuck, so there was no surprise it ran like crap, and nothing short of a miracle could have fixed it. I am bad in that I would float between Pennzoil Platinum 0w-40 and M1 0w-40 (Now I won't). If I remember, I will post up my results here after I do the oil analysis, but I don't put a ton of miles on her, so it's going to take until Winter at best. Off topic, but of interest anyway, the Mustang actually had "Piston Rattle" tables in the ECU to somehow lower the sound. I can't remember, because it's been a while since I looked, but I think the tables get zeroed out for the ford performance pack tunes.
@@The3chordwonder Very interesting! Yeah variable vane tech in oil pumps just seems like a solution looking for a problem. Another failure point. Superb. I am kind of glad I don't have a vehicle that is from that era of technology. Heck it was enough of a pain just to be able to get VCDS to work on my first gen Cayenne. It's crazy that companies like COBB are trying to take away features and software that has been out for years due to the EPA - with this new ruling (Chevron Deference?) perhaps we can start to see more freedom for the individual property owner returning. I believe in having clean air to breathe and water to drink as much as the next person. I'm just not willing to sacrifice my livelihood so that my devices and modes of transport become some kind of disposable item in a few years. Forget EVs with lithium batteries and cloud-connected, tracking your every move lol.. Not to mention being shut down remotely. Like, what kind of clown world... In any case, that's fascinating about the Mustang piston rattle tables in the ECU... I wonder what they could actually be changing in order to affect that? Fuel/ign delivery timing? Why would there be piston rattles in the first place? Are the Mustang pistons forged? Wouldn't any slap go away once properly warmed up if that were the case? I wonder how the Ceratec affects oil pressure. Some seem to think that oil pressure is not as necessary as flow - however people in the know have pointed out that the big end bearings are floating on a hydrodynamic wedge and the "centering" of the bearing on the crank surface in the top/bottom orientation, aka, the concentricity, is directly affected by the thickness of this wedge. So it would stand to reason that using a too-thin grade of oil would degrade this concentricity, and I would imagine that too little pressure would do the same. Perhaps my armchair engineering is off-base. Further, the oil pump volume is already directly affected by crankshaft rpm, so I don't see why you would in particular want variable vane tech in the oil pump. Again maybe I am myopic, I'm not automotive engineer. The sad thing is, that we have to be this vigilant and press towards understanding as much of this stuff as we can in order to not get "hoodwinked" by these corporations and their governmental masters.
I tried the Pennzoil Platinum made from natural gas when it first came out. It had very high oil pressure when the engine was cold and had very low oil pressure when the engine reached operating temperature. I drained the oil and never went back. A friend had the same issue.
I’ve really been enjoying your channel, and you have called yourself a ring guy: so I was curious if you could do an in-depth video on ‘ Italian tuneups’ .
My owners manual only calls for the Porsche A40 spec. and they make no mention of an API spec. at all. This really grinds my gears because we know that many other (non-A40 spec.) oils are just fine. I figure if my oil has a "SN" spec., I'm good to go. If an oil company chooses to not purchase the A40 designation from Porsche, that doesn't mean the oil won't work.
An SN spec alone will not meet all of the same performance requirements as the A40 spec, but that doesn’t mean some new API SP oils could not do better than the average A40 oil.
Most Euro car makers don't list an API spec which is an American thing. Most like an ACEA or an individual company spec. Porsche website will give you a list of oils that is fairly inclusive of those that meet the A40 spec. With that said you get a A40 oil, but that doesn't necessarily mean you are getting the best oil as many smaller Oil companies don't spend the time or money to test to some of the Euro specs. Some companies list HTHS (High Temp High Shear) requirements but many oils don't list those on the spec sheets either.
@@2001pulsar Lake has mentioned in the past that Motul oil is good stuff and on the same level as Driven oils which is high praise from him imo. The issue is that it's basically the same price so I would just go with Driven unless there's an application they're missing.
*Pro Tip:* Hours are a far better gauge of engine use than miles. *I mean, you can go 60 MHP or you can go 30 MPH, you still drove an hour, right?* I was an Army Mechanic and we didn't change oil at mileage intervals, but pulled samples and had them tested to determine when the oil needed to be changed. I also worked on a lot of low mileage high hour vehicles where using mileage didn't make any sense at all, so we used hour meters instead. You can get these and install them on your vehicle BTW. I personally wouldn't rely on your results as a scientific base because of the simple fact that mileage on a vehicles chassis doesn't correlate with hours on a vehicles engine. I'd like to see Mobile One's extended mileage tested under those conditions.
Oh man, this leaves me with more questions than answers: 1. You said you doubt the new Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 (Euro car formula) contains PAO, but you’ll check. Instead you showed the results for super car formula. I’m dying to see the spectrum analysis for Mobil 1 euro 0w-40, because their current msds lists 1-decene, homopolymer hydrogenated at 25-50%, which I think is PAO. Now I’m wondering if their MSDS is BS, pun intended. 2. When you suggest for us, mortal non-tribolobist folk, to pick out oil according to spec, please keep in mind that the Pennz Ultra Pla 0w-40 doesn’t have any approvals/recommendations listed other than Chrysler. None listed for your Porsche, and none for my Benz. While it’s apparently a great oil, someone seeing the lack of manufacturer-specific approvals or recommendations could be having second thoughts. Love the videos and can’t wait to watch the follow up!
I too come away with more questions than answers from most of Lake's videos; he's great at being inconsistent where he wants to be, and of picking which information to mention or not mention to keep us a bit confused.
And some of us drive cars with flat tappet cams that specify API SF and have viscosity recommendations that don't reflect the existence of synthetic oils.
On a more serious note: Am I the only one who thinks that demonstrating how different Mobil 1 Supercar oil is from Pnz UP 0w40 is less useful for most consumers, whereas Pnz UP 0w-40 should actually be compared to Mobil 1 FS 0W-40, which is a more realistic use case competitor?
I appreciate you doing all this for us mere mortals. I've been a hot rodder for years (40+). I've always understood the importance of oil, now I'm understanding the science. Knowledge is power.
Right on
@@themotoroilgeekDoes having that metallic paint look on the break-in oil change raise any red flags? (800 miles, 23 4Runner 1GR-FE)
@@seanpop2886no problem on the initial oil change.
@@themotoroilgeek does Pennzoil carry synthetic blend oil . ?
@@themotoroilgeek Please test Valvoline VR 1 Full Synthetic, and explain it to us if it’s a good choice for N/A Bbc & Sbc drag race-street/strip engines using solid lifter flat tappet & solid roller cams! Thank you so much!
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum vs Valvoline Restore and Protect next!! The ultimate showdown!
I agree . I’m using Restore and Protect in the 00’ 3.0 Accord I gave my son. It’s only 61k miles but it had sat up a bit. It immediately stopped the top end noise upon start up.
@@jamessharp9790interesting because I was using Ultra Platinum in a Honda with 280k miles and my oil consumption was about 1qt every 1250 miles. I switched to Restore and Protect and I’m seeing INCREASED consumption adding 1 qt at 850 miles at first dipstick check. I’m curious to see if this will continue through the life of this oil change interval, which for me is 4500-5000 miles. Maybe Lake has some insight as to why this might occur.
@@jarntzen0317 because it probably had some oil leak or oil burn, and the valvolline cleaned seals rings etc so now its using more oil.
I agree! I’ve been using Pennzoil UP for years and just switched to the Valvoline thanks to his previous video, and being as I’m over 160k on 3 different vehicles.
@@dave_artkowsky i personally think thats a bad idea, its clear that valvoline is good for cleaning, but i wouldnt keep running it perminantly.
This is for the followers of TMOG. I had a lubrication question and decided to ask TMOG. Not only did I get a quick response, but a Certified Lubrication Specialist & Oil Analyst addressed my question and explained the logic behind it.
I had spoken to Repair Techs, Service mangers, and even queried the manufacturer, and walked away with 0, zero useful information.
Thanks guys, keep up the good work.
The Pennzoil Ultra Platinum has continually shown itself to be one of the best oils out there for many years now. This is just another example showing how good it is. I've had good luck with it running hot and hard in a supercharged mustang on road courses for years. In the summer heat I'd get oil temperatures close to 300°F and I'd feel so bad for the car but it kept coming back for more and whenever I'd tear into the motor and inspect, bearing and cylinder surfaces looked brand new.
Great news for ultra Platinum. Do you use pleated paper filters or screen backed cloth type ?
@@braaap6292 do you by chance ever go on the BITOG forums? Certainly not the case over there. Mobil 1 ESP seems to be a favorite oil over there.
I would use a synthetic filter@@tarquineous
I saw a comment in another video about the UP driving up oil temp. Poster thought that was a negative but is it possible that oil temps go up because the oil is doing a better job with heat transfer thereby taking some of that off the cooling system and keeping actual bearing surface/ring temps down? As long as the oil can "handle" it I would think it's actually a positive sign for engine life....
@@fatillacing4131 I understand your possible theory about more efficient heat transfer into the oil. My concern would be that the PUP or any oil falling too far out of grade at a 300f oil temp, whether or not that's some heat transfer situation or not. In a previous video Lake says that PUP is at the bottom range for which ever grade (30 is barely into the range to be considered a 30). When oil gets above 212f the viscosity rating can begin to go lower, a 30 goes into 20 range for example and the hotter the oil the lower the Vis grade. Additionally having the proper viscosity is vital to long engine life, more important than the additive package.
I truly appreciate the work that has gone into your research.
What my takeaway from this is that no particular oil is an all around "Best" oil but rather there are oils that suit one engine better than another. For my purposes as a daily driver, I just stick to regular oil changes and have not been disappointed in over 50 years of driving.
You got it!!!
I would really like for you to say "this is the best oil" then I could use that and be happy. Because you said it.. haha. Until then..I just change oil before recommended mileage. @@themotoroilgeek
@themotoroilgeek which oil would you recommend starting with to optimize engine life for a 2022 F150 with a 5.0L NA engine at 20k miles in coastal southern California generally operated at less than 3000 rpm, 87 octane E10 gasoline?
@@Mike-vk6mo Amsoil Signature Series will give very good results and low wear.
@@Mike-vk6mo I bet he'd say start with the OEM recommended grade in Penn UP then send out for an analysis to get a baseline.
I used Amsoil for a long time and I love that oil. My thing is cost. Even as a prefered customer with Amsoil I still only get 2 oil changes for 120 bucks. with the penzoil I can get 3 oil changes of Ultra platinum for 70 bucks on amazon right now. And with what I have seen Penzoil Ultra platinum is 90 percent what Amsoil is. So I switched and could not be happier. I love Amsoil but that oil is to exspensive.
Amsoil has less expensive oils that still perform great, just not as long.
@@darrylsjodin7184 True but the one tested agains Penzoil Ultra Platinum was their Siganture series.
Nothing compares to Amsoil
Nah...oil is the life blood of a vehicle. A couple of extra bucks every oil change ain't enough to keep me from feeding it the best I can find. If it's a car you plan on keeping long term, saving money on oil never makes sense to me. Long term, quality oil pays for itself...That goes for all fluids, really.
@@charliesmith8511 Thing is, it doesn't matter. Sure, Amsoil is great, but using PUP or something similar off the shelf is going to get you exactly the same results for 1/3 the cost. If the Amsoil engine goes 600k miles and the PUP engine goes 550k, does it matter when the car is in the scrap yard before 300k? I used to be die hard Amsoil, cancelled my preferred account and switched everything over to off the shelf stuff. Guess what, everything runs perfectly as expected and the cost is less than half.
Thank you for doing this research independently so that us plebs in the public can benefit without any advertising bs.
Please keep it up
Thanks!
@@themotoroilgeek Hi, we hear most wear at startup. Can you test how long an oil film will stay on the cylinder wall when engine is not used? 1 day? 1 week? 1 month? 1 year? thanks
@@doctor_who1I can tell you it's less than 1 day, maybe just a few hours! Promise....
It was you that converted me from Super Tech to Valvoline. Seeing what they do to test their oils gave me confidence is using their oil for the first time
I did the same. Was using penzoil in my jeep, Castrol in my accord, and shell rotella in my VW.
Now I have valvoline oil change boxes and it takes up much less space even though each car has its own box.
Using Walmart oil and being scared to upgrade to any oil that is 10x better is concerning in itself😐
@@liampritchard2853 nah that's elitist talk. oil is oil and it comes from the same place and replacing it frequently is vastly more important than whatever you happen to put in.
@@thndr_5468 Nope. Not anymore .
@thndr_5468 Now that's probably the dumbest comment I've ever heard. Considering how blatantly false those statements are.
Found out about how good Mobil ESP is on BITOG forums. Switched to the 5W-30 ESP and do oil analysis every oil change and results have been outstanding. Extremely low wear metals. Not sure if it's possible to get any lower. I'm happy with it.🤙
I have had the opposite experience, switching to ESP I had 25-35% more wear vs the valvoline I have been using.
Not always a guarantee.
Stick with it! Sticking with your brand is the second most important step after proper viscosity.
@@singular9interesting.... I'm running it in all my vehicles now. 2022 Subaru Crosstrek, 2000 GMC Sierra 2500 & 2006 Chevy Express 3500 van. All outstanding results with very low wear metals.
I tried the ESP, made my car's engine sound a pre-90's diesel engine and wear metals went way up. Sad because I really wanted it to work. As soon as I changed it out all the excessive engine noise disappeared. Thinking that I may have just picked the wrong version for my car, I also tried the regular full synthetic and the AFE versions, but very similar results. Good to know that at least some people have good results from it though.
@@JA-rn5qv what's the year make and model of your vehicle and what engine is in it?
I love this channel! Commenting just to drive up engagement. Really like the emphasis on the double flush for these test. Absolute truth. Amsoil and the newly popular Prolube oil additive test would make for some high click videos. Thanks Lake!
Ran a 1100 cc FIRE engine with Castrol Magnatec 10W40. When the car went to get Stage 1 owner of the shop asked me which oil I used (?). Castrol Magnatec. He was noticeable surprised and said '...because at 120000 km the grooves of factory honing are still clearly visible!'. Well that surprised me as well.
They better still be visible. The engine is hardly at 120k km.
It also heavily matters on how you drive it. If you hit over 10k rpm with Constant 60-130 pulls wear will occur much faster.
Thank you for all the great info, Lake. This is my go-to channel for all things engine oil.
Hello Lake, I'm a lucky european owner of an e46 M3. If you don't already know, choosing THE right oil for this masterpiece is a headache ! BMW recommends 10w60, but when you know its problems with connecting rod bearings, "connoisseurs" recommend 5w30, 5w50...
In short, the entire community of M3 drivers is waiting for you like a savior and cheering you with one voice: Lake, you are our man !
Please enlighten us !
By the way, I live on an island located in the Indian Ocean (very high humidity, outside temperatures between 20 and 35 degrees Celsius). I don't drive much (3000 miles every 2 years, made up of trips of around 100 miles), and I systematically carry out oil analyzes at each oil change, with different oils (Castrol, Yacco, Motul - I can send you the existing reports).
What a great idea for videos, worthy of a series such as the Young and the Restless or Dynasty ! ;-)
From an m96 owner thank you Lake! Can’t wait till the next vid to hear your conclusion!! Get out and drive the wombat!!
Me too. Early M97 owner, been using Motul as it has been one of the recommended oils for this specific application. Can’t wait to see what he finds
Thank you for the great information. Penzoil 0 - 40 Platinum is factory recommended for my 392 CI hemi and your analysis confirms what FCA strongly recommends for this particular engine.
what the motor was built on......
Thank you for sharing another informative video Lake Speed Jr. I've been using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum since it was released originally as Pennzoil Ultra. Definitely the best oil on the market for using in my 6.2L V8 engines, in my opinion. I know people love Amsoil Signature Series, but I refuse to over-pay for it. Many DO NOT realize that all Amsoil is, is ExonnMobil synthetic base stock, mixed with Lubrizol base stock, then them adding additives. Granted it does test well on Project Farm etc. However, value for your money, I still choose to continue using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, cheers!
Project Farm is a total joke.
They tried to claim that WD-40 was a better penetrating oil than PB Blaster when the intended purpose of WD-40 is displacing water, hence the WD in its name.
I blocked Project Farm after that.
@@donreinke5863 I have felt a large amount of his testing, particularly around automotive products is definitely incorrect in many respects. Appreciate your opinion, thanks.
@@donreinke5863 It was based on the test results, he didn't just make up claims.
@@nakoma5 His "testing" is bogus.
Ive been in automotive repair for 52 years and encountered hundreds of corroded/seized fasteners.
PB Blaster and Aerokroil are by FAR the best penetrants.
We used WD-40 to dry out ignition components after washing engines, and it works very well for that, but NOT as a penetrant.
That's what all the oil companies do. Lake has pointed that out before.
YASSSS, the motor oil god has answered my prayer. I really love this video! After watching all of the other videos on additives, detergents, oil breakdown, and how base oil affects your motor oil, I think this video really takes it all and puts it together for you to understand how all these variables in your oil affect your engine. Truly amazing work! I really love the content. I just bought a new CX-5, and I’m using all this to have a longevity protocol for my car. This content is very valuable. You're a god amongst men sir.
Thank you for the incredibly kind words.
Just discovered your channel, absolutely amazing video, knowledge and quality, subscribed and can't wait to see more, I am currently running 5W-30 AMSOIL Sig. Series in my 07 Roush, used to run Mobil 1 before, have been told to run Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. I used to have a dislike for Pennzoil due to misinformation I was taught in my early automotive years but now I am wanting to test all 3 and see what my car likes best! My main issue now is the price of AMSOIL and its availability, but to get Ultra Plat or a Supercar Mobil or equivalent is also hard to find and usually needs ordered online so now it really comes down to price and wear protection, I will pay the premium for AMSOIL if the results show better though.
Thanks! Stay tuned for the AMSOIL test.
Have watched your channel recently. That rule of thumb of 5 PPM/1000 miles for wear metals is great info!
Have been waiting for your analysis of the Mobil 1 0W40 Supercar oil. Look forward to the follow-up vid. Congrats on a well-deserved over 100,000 subs 🎉
Thank you!
LIke he said in the video, more like the old 0w-40. Higher ZDDP but also higher Calcium. So I don't think I'd be using it in a newer Supercar which are all D.I. motors nowadays like most everything else. Or any D.I. Motor.
@@markhahn107 the supercar is recommended for the entire c8 corvette gen, with both engines running DI, so this might not be accurate
@@matttl903 It's a fact that there is low speed pre ignition with Higher Calcium oils. Recognized by Motor Oil experts and the SAE & API. Whether or not it is fully recognized by GM over the money they are getting paid for by Mobil who knows. It's not like the newer GM engines haven't had their reliability failures. They've had their Engine failures already with some C8's, current Transmission recall, overheating. A great overall car with some Engineering shortcomings though.
Any information on the Amsoil Signature series oil? Have a 24 Mustang and I want to put the best option. I use to be a big mobil1 and Schaffers fan until I started watching these videos recently.
Please explain and test race, API and small engine oils to see which is best for air cooled small engines. No one ever talks about the best oils for mowers and pumps and generators and power equipment!
THIS! 100% this
YES, I'd love to see that, too!
Please please please.
Yes, this would be very interesting!
that because it doesn't really matter, the quality of the internals of those motors is so low that they wear out regardless of oil used. I've found the most important thing at the moment to be just doing a proper break in on those motors to prevent them from burning oil and cross contaminating combustion vapour in oil
Thank you for all the hard work that goes into these videos, Lake! Have you considered doing a video on the Mobil1 ESP line of oils? They appear to have interesting chemistries. The ESP 0W-30 is now available at Walmart at a great price and might have a decent amount of ester in it. Would love to hear your analysis!
That’s funny, project farm did a great video as well, and I’ve been using Pennzoil ultra platinum. Amsoil performed a bit better overall, but it was so similar to the Pennzoil for so much cheaper. I can usually find a Pennzoil ultra platinum for pretty cheap at Walmart and now it’s all I run in my jaguar XF 5.0 my Jetta 2.5, and then my Ford fusion sport. Excellent oil👌💯
@@nicholasbabeaux2052 we just flushed all the fluids on a ‘17 Jaguar Ford 3.0 V6 supercharged engine. One owner very well maintained but he sold it. We switched the new owner over to Valvoline Clean and Restore 0-20w. We’re going to follow this vehicle over the next 3-4 oil changes to determine any changes. Other than tearing the engine apart, we just want to see if the owner notices any differences in performance (fuel consumption, oil consumption)
@@nicholasbabeaux2052 Pennzoil did great, all except for the wear test, which was a ways behind Amsoil, but I’m not sure how much that test correlates to real world engine life.
@jamram9924 those engines, man they do have a lot of issues. I love Jaguars, there are modern Jaguars that are reliable. But that 3.0 is not. The 3.0 duratec that was a Jaguar engine was very reliable I had one of those LMAO
So the 3.0 supercharged is actually a pzev engine. If you live in a Pzev state there are so many items that are covered under warranty for that car. The list of covered items is surprisingly long. Most people do not know of the extended 15 year 150,000 mile warranty.
@@nicholasbabeaux2052 I understand this engine was developed in partnership with Mazda (part of the AJ family), but under Ford ownership, which explains why it was used in a variety of different vehicle applications from one brand to the next. This engine, which shares several components with the Duratec 25 engine.
In researching online, Ford 3.0L Duratec 30 engine received many technological firsts for its time thanks to inputs from Porsche and Cosworth. As far as the emissions, they’re all Ford and through a shop many of those components can be purchased directly from Ford using Ford parts since many of the parts have part numbers from Ford. It saves the customer a lot of money as opposed to purchasing them from Jaguar.
I read that many of the parts like an aluminum engine block and cylinder heads were all standard, as well as cylinders lined with cast iron and a sequential fuel injection system, as well as fracture-split forged powder metal connecting rods and an assembled cast aluminum intake manifold. The differential is all Ford as well as the transmission however we were told it was used in Ford Mondeos in Europe. It has a gorgeous interior but I am concerned about the heavy use of digital dashboard and a variety of sensors that will most likely come from Jaguar when they time comes to replace. I haven’t seen a European cars with affordable electronics or modules. Thank for the information. I’ll keep that in mind since this car only has 72,000 miles and very well maintained.
@@darrylsjodin7184 The wear scar was only slightly larger than the Amsoil sample.
All I run. This channel and project farm will keep your cars running for many years to come
I would love a comparison between Pennzoil UP and Valvoline RP, considering changing to restore and protect from ultra platinum
Unless Valvoline RP has better cold-flow properties, I wouldn’t do it.
@@ChicagoRob2 Lake addressed this when I asked him. Notice he doesn't get into cold pour tests. His comment to me was that pumping is different than pouring. I'm in the same climate as Chicago (northern NY).
Since he is reinforcing how specific oils work in specific vehicles, he'd likely recommend you use one (after a double drain), get an analysis done, then repeat with the other oil. Note also that I asked him if Penn High Mileage would work similarly to R&P and his response was "RP is in a league of its own".
Thanks Lake. I always enjoy your oil videos
Oil chemistry is really fascinating!
Glad you like them!
@@themotoroilgeekit would be great if you were able to address the myth that a heavier operating viscosity within reason can harm an engine. So many people claim engines are tighter and a 30 or 40 grade will blow up their 20 spec engine but I don’t see any evidence this is true. Surely the viscosity of even the thin oils when cold is much higher than the thick oil operating viscosity or HTHS difference.
I used the exact same Pennzoil, in my 2016 Nissan Rogue. My commute through the country is always exactly the same, day after day. I go the speed limit, cruise control, so i am totally consistent. before, with the top of the line Mobile 1, I was getting 6.7 L/100km. after changing to Pennzoil, it dropped to 6.1L/100km and stayed there. My car should be getting 7.1L/100km from factory. That is a massive difference. If I drive very smoothly without cruise control on the highway I can usually get 5.3L/100km. One day after leaving work at 2am, roads are completely quiet so I pushed it and totally wanted to see what I could ring out of it for milage. I ended up averaging 3.9L/100km. Amazing stuff. Amazing difference! With my Nissan cube, the best I ever did with a 40 mile / 70km trip was down to 3.5L/100km. That's going around 68km/h which I found to be the sweet spot for my car.
I found a “verified customer of Amsoil” ("Mugenizer" from Vancouver, Canada, gender unknown), who wrote a complimentary-email to Amsoil back in April, 2024 claiming not only a 9.2% Increase in Fuel Economy while using Amsoil Signature Series Motor Oil (after using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Motor Oil), but "Mugenizer" also experienced less ticking sounds coming from "Mugenizer's" engine’s lifters and crankcase, along with a smoother-running engine (resulting from the use of Amsoil), as well! I have copied and pasted "Mugenizer's" story in the next paragraph, where we can reasonably calculate how many miles we should expect "Mugenizer's" to save a gallon of gas, along with the surprising amount of gallons of gas (25.23 gallons, x $4.00 a gallon= $100.92) saved over the course of a typical 5,000 mile Pennzoil oil-change timeframe (where the "net savings" of Amsoil are much more than the initial cheaper price of Pennzoil), which is hereinafter more fully explained, as follows:
From the Amsoil Website Concerning Comments from Verified Customers of Various Amsoil Products:
"5 star rating WOW! UNEXPECTED RESULTSBy MUGENIZER, a Verified Buyer from Vancouver on April 11, 2024:
I was using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-20 Full Synthetic for my Honda Pilot 2016 exl with 261K km in it. Obvious crackcase noise & lifter noise. Fuel consumption of 12.9 liters per 100km. Now with using Amsoil Signature Series 0W-20 Full Synthetic...noise in the crankcase & lifters are a lot less. My fuel consumption is now 11.8 liters per 100km. The engine run smoother than it was. I wish i've used Amsoil ever since. Now, i use it in every vehicle i own. I highly recommend this product."
Yes, you probably guessed I am an Independent Amsoil Dealer with my ID number 1420935 (also used as my Referral Code). All dealers of Amsoil (including me) are Independent Contractors, as opposed to actual employees of Amsoil.
If you or any consumers wish to buy the Amsoil products as a Preferred Customer (PC), they will get the oil at a 25% discount, plus free shipping when they spend $100 (plus receiving a $5 coupon for every $100 you spend). It only costs $10 for a 6 month PC membership (or $20 a year) and there is no requirement to purchase (as there is with so many companies offering a membership for a preferred customer program, where there is an automatic shipment involved).
If you or any viewers are tempted to try Amsoil, I invite you to visit the official website of Amsoil and apply to become my Preferred Customer, by kindly utilizing my Referral Number of 1420935 in the box where they ask “Have a Referral Number? Enter it below:” If you can write down my referral number, before you eventually decide to exit this webpage, it will be appreciated (so that it will be at your fingertips when you get on the official Amsoil website). You can send me (automotivebuff) an email at my gmail address if you have any questions. Thanks for the consideration!
Thanks, Lake, for the great comparison.
I had an abnormally high level(70 ppm) of iron in the 5W-40 Motul 300V oil that I was running in my 370Z at about 3500 miles and so I'm experimenting with other oils. I'm currently waiting to test the 5W-30 Redline that's in it now and if that doesn't come out good I'll go to another oil, probably the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. I'd love to see a comparison of the Pennzoil with the other boutique oils, like Motul and Redline.
Driven DI30 in this video is a pretty good comparison in terms of boutique oils. Lake has mentioned previously that he thinks Motul is on the same level as Driven oils, though obviously he prefers them because he formulated them. I would say Driven DI30 and Motul 300V are some of the best you can buy and Redline is a bit antiquated.
@@ZWortek I would be interested in seeing you. Try Amsoil signature series and see how it comes out.
@@darrylsjodin7184 keep in mind Signature Series is formulated for American & Asian vehicles. They have a bunch of different viscosities & SAPs levels European car oils as well.
@@oneninerniner3427 True, I should have thought of that. I’d like to know how the proper Amsoil European oil does. 😊
We need you to dabble in the VTwin oil reviews.
Nobody:
Absolutely noone:
Luke warming up the oil for a change: you can see the things you can't see.
Absolutely amazing video.❤
Can we get a review of Mobil1 ESP I started running it and have been absolutely blown away by it’s performance after running it for 3k miles it still looks as clean as the day I put it in and it’s still green too😁
In this review, the most ignored the most ignored oil is the most widely used of the 3: Mobil 1 0w-40 API SP (FS-euro formula), as it has the most manufacturer approvals, including Benz, VW, BMW and Porsche. Yet, Mr. Speed says "gone is the PAO/Esther" while MSDS states 25-50% PAO. Then he says, "it's either a group 3 or a pao alkylated naphtalene, WE'LL LOOK AT IT IN A SECOND"-- and then of course he does NOT look at it, completely ignores this oil for the rest of the video.
Pnz UltraPlat 0w-40 which doesn't have ANY German man.approvals is compared to M1 Supercar with only Porsche C40 approval, not even the A40 approval for mainstream Porsches. Many Porsche techs state C40 is NOT reverse compatible with A40, even exxon-mobil website states so.
The takaway from this video: You must send a virgin Mobil 1 FS 0w-40 to Mr. Speed for analysis, it is too popular of an oil for him to give away the analysis results for free. That is why he showed the results of oils that are of no interest for most owners of german cars made between 2000-2015.
I have no issue with him wanting his lab to generate revenue. I do, however, take an issue with him making claims that contradict the MSDS documentation, state that he will look into it in a second, and then not do that.
I think Mr. Speed jumped the gun with his comments on Mobil 1 0w-40 API SP and now he cannot make any further comments on the issue, because he
1. Either has to say "sorry guys, my assumption was wrong"--but then has to show proof why it was wrong, otherwise his commentary loses value;
2. Or he has to defend his assumption of absence of PAO/esthers by showing the spectrometer results, which may open him up for Exxon Mobil's reaction to his claim.
That is why I think he won't be addressing this again.
I learn so much when I watch your videos
I would love to see an entire episode on mobile 1 supercar 0w40.
There are a lot of corvette and camaro owners who want to know why they need a $8 to $10/quart oil that cant be found in any local store.
Loving the Ultra Plat. When I do my oil changes at 5-6k miles it still looks basically new.
Seems like more of a testament to the filter than the oil
Low grade oil will darken more quickly.
I've tried lots of different oils and found the UP to darken more than most. Motorcraft full synthetic stays lighter longer from my experience.
What kind of oil filter are you using and car?
@@shanethonmacmartin2069 Toyota OEM filters only.
15 quarts of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum for $70? Can't beat it!
Where?
something too cheap Make sure you don't take the engine off the highway
@@danielk7111 Got mine from Walmart online. But Amaozon is close in price too. The normal low price is about $90 for 15 qts. That is still good compared to Amsoil.
Where? Walmart is $84 in my area.
@@0HOON0 you live in wrong hood
This comment is meant to be helpful. You give a lot of good information and you are obviously knowledgeable, however your videos are hard to watch. You need to do a better job of summarizing your results. More graphics or comparison charts. Don't just show the lab spreadsheet.
Lake, Thanks for bringing up the reddish color of used oil due to the antioxidants in the oil. I noticed this on one of my vehicles at the last oil change and was more than a little concerned!
I’m glad it helped
Pennzoil is my favorite and I use it in any car I change oil in.
I do use Kirkland 5W-30 in my GX though, simply because it needs 8.5 quarts per change minimum and any other brand would cost close to $100 in oil.
Well, I guess if you have a three dollar engine, use three dollar oil?
Would it really? I can find 10 qts 5W30 on Amazon for about 40-50 bucks
Great video Lake!! Thanks for all your hard work!
I tested all Mobil-1 and Pennzoil and then chose Amsoil Signature Series Motor Oil because of what I saw on lab analysis reports. I'm not saying this will be everyone's result but it certainly was the superior oil for my application.
what engine are you using it in.
@@wally6193 We manage a fleet of vehicles in our family because my late dad was an automotive mechanic for 50 years. We aren't sold exclusively on one brand or another, we are the right oil for the right application. What I will tell you though is Amsoil suite of oils always come out better in a lot of cases and at the very least the same as shelf oils in the applications we test them in. Where they really shine is in high performance applications in the family like the Cadillac CTS V series, Dodge Hellcats etc. We always test these engines using Amsoil after a few runs as Speed advises to make sure the chemistry is established in the application and always after a healthy break-in period has commenced to be sure we are seeing accurate results. Where a "shelf oil" like Pennzoil or Mobil 1 comes up the same we use that, but where Amsoil comes up ahead we obviously use that. In my non exciting Dodge Grand Caravan family hauler I use Amsoil XL 5-30 and not the signature series because it's the absolute best oil for that application even though it spec's a 5w20 oil from Pennzoil as the recommended oil. So your results will vary but I wanted to comment here for Lake to see as he has applications requiring strong demands on engine oil like his Daughter's Toyota requiring ultra thin 0w8 and his Porsche requiring a high performance engine oil.
@@eppyz I'm not a "Amsoil is the best", I' m a "whatever is the right oil for the job based on lab results" person. In Cadillac CTS V-Series and Dodge Hellcat Signature Series Amsoil seems to perform better than shelf oils like Pennzoil an M1. It's just what I've seen in lab reports...
@@CedroCron That's fair. As long as your not using markers like TBN as a deciding marker. Different Engines do require different additive packs as shown in this video, but higher contents of certain additives do not mean its "better" either. It takes time, and numerous tests to determine. With that said, I used Redline Race oils in my race cars and never had an engine failure in the 12 years of racing with said oil, so does that mean Redline is better? It really comes down to many factors, but if your happy with Amsoil and it suits your needs that's awesome.
Amsoil is fantastic. I use it in everything. My lawn mower went 70hrs on its last change and didn't use a drop.
amazing work as always! i love your channel and I’d be interested to see a comparison between shell rotella t6 15w40 (which is a diesel engine oil), valvoline vr1 20w50 and a motorcycle specific 15w40 or 15w50. the reason being is a lot of people run rotella t6 in their motorcycles, it’s even certified for JASO MA2, which is needed for wet clutch bikes i think. i know a lot of people also run rotella in the older high performance engines such as nissan’s sr20det, rb25det, subaru’s FJs and many other gasoline engines, even though the oil is meant for diesel trucks. one point of contention is rotella doesn’t have the same anti foaming properties compared to something like vr1 which is especially crucial in motorcycle since they easily rev past 10k rpm.
Can you do a similar analysis of what is best for direct injection daily drivers? I have my first DI car (NA) and because of the years of good reviews on Platinum, I put that in. But just as I did that, the new Restore and Protect came out which also sounds good due to extra cleaning. With my older engines and Mobil 1 0W40, I never had any wear nor cleanliness issues. Now I not only need low wear, but also more cleaning and more pre ignition protection. Thank you for the great info you provide!
Just be sure to run a SP rated oil. That's the latest spec and it is for LSPI issues. I believe all the OW40 oils (and more) are now SP rated. Remember too the DI/turbo engines are harder on the oil so you don't want extended OCI's. I have three DI/turbo engines and I do 3,000 mile OCI's. Some other do 5,000 miles, which is ok too.
I would like to see this. What chemistry is best for Honda/Acura?
I can't answer your question but, DI = Direct Injection and NA = Normally Aspirated! I bought my wife a low mileage 38k Malibu 2015 placed in service by GM regional service manager V6 - 6speed fleet. Over 35+ years I hate the automatic stop / restart so am buying a 3 quart accumulator wired to start / cranking only. I prefer what ever brands or additive package is good enough to shove oil into this engines galleys to be full out or near allowing pressure to be there near immediately. It "Rubs" me the wrong way while pickup has an off switch and a car doesn't. I just want that! I don't like it, I hate it! If I could find PCM terminals from truck to car, I would supply it with ground, B+, or open to shut it off. Lord take mercy on my starters pinion and flex plate.
There isn't going to be much difference in choosing an oil for a DI vs a port injection. Gas is much more important factor as poor gas quality would increase carbon deposits on DI
@@DaDaDo661 do you have any particular fuel additive you use/recommend?
I've done 4 of your videos now and feel much more confident regarding "zink" for my hot rod engine and "general oil information" for my daily drivers. Thanks.
I changed my vehicles oil for Penn Ultra after his last video and I have no complaints so far. Only problem, I cant find that oil anywhere in local stores.
You can buy at advance auto parts or online
Thank you SO MUCH for your in depth lab tested results! Your vids are unmatched with REAL PROOF!! Your the reason I researched & switched to the Pennzoil Platinum Series. I have always used Valvoline & it is still a great oil. There is a difference between great & superior. The Pennzoil Platinum Series of oils are just superior in my opinion. And yea.....please fill your new oil filter with oil before installing! Lake Speeds test have PROVEN it matters!
Thank you!
@@themotoroilgeek --- No thank you! Not to overshadow years of professional mechanics knowledge but nothing beats that knowledge AND lab results to go with it. Unbeatable pair!
30 year mechanic here. I’m not a proponent of filling oil filters before installation due to the fact that anything that gets in the filter goes straight to the bearings. A small unseen piece of foil seal could really wreck your day. Starting an engine after an oil change is really no different than starting it on a cold winter morning. With the long oil change intervals on modern engines a person is only “dry starting” an engine twenty or thirty times in its lifetime. I will pre- fill filters when the service information directly calls for it.
Whether you pre-fill the filter or not, crap can get in there regardless. You're not minimizing that chance by not pre-filling them. All you're doing is guaranteeing extra wear through dry start ups.
Untrue. Anything that goes in the oil fill cap goes through the filter before the engine. If you pre-fill the filter you have no protection.
@@MarkMarbach-ff4si Right...but the chance of some debri getting in there is the same whether you fill it with oil or not. Sooo...might as well fill it with oil. Because the potential extra engine wear from dry starts is guaranteed, the debri is not. If you're worried about that debri coming from the oil container...then it still has the same chance of going in the engine when you pour the oil. So what are we talking about? None of that is an excuse not to pre-fill the filter. Just pay attention to what you're doing, and work clean.
@@MarkMarbach-ff4siAlso oil that you pour on top isn't guaranteed to go through the filter before it hits the engine. Where did you get that from? So many modern vehicles have you pour the oil directly into the valve cover, or somewhere similar. It then drains down through the engine into the pan. It doesn't go directly into the pan first.
Oil or contaminants that is poured into the valve cover will either run to the pan and then be filtered before sent to the oil galleries under pressure or it will lay on top of the head and float around. This debris will not cause an issue because there isn’t any way it will end up in a close tolerance space (bearings). If contaminants are in the core of the oil filter they are assured of being pumped to the bearings under pressure. A lot of vehicles have horizontal filters where you can’t fill them anyway. I wouldn’t worry about tho or three seconds without oil pressure on the gauge. As I said in my initial post it’s no different than a cold morning start in the winter at 0 degrees.
Wow Lake always blows me away! Thank you, Lake!
Thanks!
Why not do Pennzoil Euro? Seems like a better comparison.
It's the best actually.
I got my Oil Education Fix for the Day.. All is right with the world through my eyes. Thank you for the Video Lake! All the love.
You said the forbidden words. "Mobil 1"
LOL
Thanks for explaining the red color in your engine oil. The Amsoil I use leaves a similar color "substance" behind in the catch can. Good to know that it's just a type of anti-oxidant.
I’m glad it helped!
Wonderful details, but I'd like to point out a missing market/audience for you. People on the Autism spectrum (and other neurodivergent people like with ADHD) often have problems processing spoken/voice information. I don't know the monetization details here, but text based tables/charts with this information would be appreciated by many people. Meaning good/bad combinations of chemistry, and what each product is/has since the manufacturer doesn't advertise those details to typical customers. And there is a reason we're all here (appreciate you sharing your experience and knowledge!).
Thanks for the feedback
Neurodivergent... The medical establishment has really done a number on you... Perhaps if spoken word is too hard, you shouldn't be out on the roads... Maybe we don't want a bunch of "neurodivergent" people behind the wheel.... This coddling of mental illness and weakness needs to stop...
@themotoroilgeek I have a 2015 Toyota Tundra with 97,000 miles. Would Pennzoil Platinum High Miles or Pennzoil Ultra be better? Thank you for the channel and all the science behind oil. We're all getting an education thanks to you!
I don’t know, but Lake has stated that the high mileage oils have additives that protect rubber seals.
Motul for me but the only thing that really matters more than anything is not the brand of oil but how often you change it
I have used Mobil 1 for many years in many cars and I am very happy with it. At 211k miles on my 2003 CRV that I bought new I had a Honda technician check out my car and he said the engine was immaculate inside. So I know my oil is perfectly fine. I want to try Amsoil but it is expensive and not readily available like Mobil 1 so I am sticking with it.
I found a “verified customer of Amsoil” ("Mugenizer" from Vancouver, Canada, gender unknown), who wrote a complimentary-email to Amsoil back in April, 2024 (filed chronologically under "Product Reviews") claiming not only a 9.2% Increase in Fuel Economy while using Amsoil Signature Series Motor Oil (after using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Motor Oil), but "Mugenizer" also experienced less ticking sounds coming from "Mugenizer's" engine’s lifters and crankcase, along with a smoother-running engine (resulting from the use of Amsoil), as well! I have copied and pasted "Mugenizer's" story in the next paragraph, where we can reasonably calculate how many miles we should expect "Mugenizer's" to save a gallon of gas, along with the surprising amount of gallons of gas (25.23 gallons, x $4.00 a gallon = $100.92) saved over the course of a typical 5,000 mile Pennzoil oil-change timeframe (where the "net savings" of Amsoil are much more than the initial cheaper price of Pennzoil), which is hereinafter more fully explained, as follows:
From the Amsoil Website Concerning Comments from Verified Customers of Various Amsoil Products:
"5 star rating WOW! UNEXPECTED RESULTSBy MUGENIZER, a Verified Buyer from Vancouver on April 11, 2024:
I was using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-20 Full Synthetic for my Honda Pilot 2016 exl with 261K km in it. Obvious crackcase noise & lifter noise. Fuel consumption of 12.9 liters per 100km. Now with using Amsoil Signature Series 0W-20 Full Synthetic...noise in the crankcase & lifters are a lot less. My fuel consumption is now 11.8 liters per 100km. The engine run smoother than it was. I wish i've used Amsoil ever since. Now, i use it in every vehicle i own. I highly recommend this product."
Yes, you probably guessed I am an Independent Amsoil Dealer with my ID number 1420935 (also used as my Referral Code). All dealers of Amsoil (including me) are Independent Contractors, as opposed to actual employees of Amsoil.
If you or any consumers wish to buy the Amsoil products as a Preferred Customer (PC), they will get the oil at a 25% discount, plus free shipping when they spend $100 (plus receiving a $5 coupon for every $100 you spend). It only costs $10 for a 6 month PC membership (or $20 a year) and there is no requirement to purchase (as there is with so many companies offering a membership for a preferred customer program, where there is an automatic shipment involved).
If you or any viewers are tempted to try Amsoil, I invite you to visit the official website of Amsoil and apply to become my Preferred Customer, by kindly utilizing my Referral Number of 1420935 in the box where they ask “Have a Referral Number? Enter it below:” If you can write down my referral number, before you eventually decide to exit this webpage, it will be appreciated (so that it will be at your fingertips when you get on the official Amsoil website). You can send me (automotivebuff) an email at my gmail address if you have any questions. Thanks for the consideration!
Been using pennzoil platinum euro blend on the old merc for years, best stuff ever and very affordable considering I need 8.5L at a time... wallymart carries it, and I just subscribe to it, so when it arrives I know it's time for the yearly oil change. 😉
Your channel is right up my alley. Thanks for the information on understanding oil analysis results.
I wonder how the the Pennzoil 0W-40 Euro Formula compares to the Ultra 0W-40. Just curious since only the Euro formula only has the Mercedes 229.5 certification whereas the Ultra doesn't.
Came here for this. That said, I don't think 229.5 is anything very exotic. I have seen plenty of good oil analysis results in M157 applications with oils that aren't 229.5. My cynical translation for 229.5 is fuel economy, emissions and the basic qualities of any good synthetic oil. I don't think it has anything too special that results in cylinder wall protection, or some of the other wear issues we may care about. Actually, I run Liquimoly Molygen 5W-40 in my M157 which is actually NOT officially 229.5 approved, only "recommended" (they didn't pay for the license) and I got a GREAT used oil analysis after 5,000 miles with about 104k on the engine. I am looking to fiddle around though because this is an SN formula, and I think I want something a little thicker.
@@kevin9c1 I have a M157 also. It had Mobil 1 Eurocar 0W/40 when I bought it. The calcium level was 2528 at 5100 miles. That was from a SPEEDiagnostix Oil Report. I was using Liquimoly Molygen 5w/40 and I am going to pull it out of my CLS 63S because it has very high calcium numbers from a the VOA samples posted online. Going to run the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum for a 200 mile flush. Then I am going to run it again for 3k mile and send it off to SPEEDiagnostix again.
You really are doing a service for the public Lake, thank you.
Curious, I'm starting to see API SP 0/5w40 BARELY starting to hit the markets, considering API SP and GF-6A/B has been out for some years now; with the known issues of DI engines. Especially for those who don't maintain them out of just not being car enthusiasts or knowing they have to.
However, for the Euro enthusiant who never goes over 5k mile oil change intervals, it's nice to finally see API SP available for 0/5w40 viscosity grades after being limited to API SN. There are only a few which includes Pennzoil however would love to get your input on API SP roll out for this viscosity. I would also ove to see a analysis between switching from LiquiMoly API SN 5w40 for almost 100k miles/life of the car from new, and then double flushing to 5w40 API SP Pennzoil. I might just have to perform this analysis on my car and get ready to send a sample in before I make the switch. Stay Fast Lake!
Thanks from Australia
Thank you for all that you do, Lake.
We need a Schaefer's oil test
Thank you, Gilbert...
Hi Lake,
Greetings from New Zealand.
After years of using Castrol Edge 5w30 in my cars, I changed to Mobil 1 ESP 5w30.
My car is a VW TDI and I've noticed improved smoothness and better fuel mileage - up to 100km more per tank. Also, the oil appears cleaner, even after 10,000km (diesels typically make oil appear black).
Thanks for your educational information in every vid.
Best wishes,
Mat
So If the oils emptying out cleaner between drains does that mean it’s not cleaning the carbon deposits as well ? 🧐
Oil is supposed to come out dirty
So, it's not cleaning very well? Or Castrol did a better job at cleaning?
For those who think it's not cleaning: if changed regularly - I change mine every 10,000km (6,000 miles) - the oil goes in clean and comes out slightly shaded. This means the engine is running clean, as all engine deposits have long since been removed, and the detergents in the oil are now only removing fresh contamination, as the engine is otherwise clean.
Tell Marty T Hi next time you see him.
Hey Lake, amazing video as always! Very informative. I have a video idea. Could you use oil analysis to compare the filtration capability of paper vs oiled cotton air filters. There’s so much speculation out there and this discussion could really use your scientific approach. Thanks
Great suggestion!
Penzoil ultra plat is the best bang for buck but Aimsoil signature series is the best.
It’s barely better than ultra platinum. They’re pretty much neck and neck.
@@shdw6662 The largest differnces isn't in wear its in reduced friction savings for gas mileage my car says 5w - 20 but do to the stupid high film strength of Amsoil I can run 0w - 16 and still get less wear PPM than 0w - 20 Penz along with better mpg. It is very close but as someone who loves every extra HP and wants my engine to last until my kids can drive it Amsoil is the best bet. Also the other big decider for me is cold crank start Aimsoil wins by 10%.
@@shdw6662 Yes, and given that the Pennzoil often goes on sale - making HALF the price of the Amsoil - Pennzoil UP is the best choice.
Awesome info. Can't wait to see the PUP 0W-40 results!
You and me both!
PUP 5W20 is amazing in my Camry 2AR FE1. Super low valvetrain noise and very low wear metals.
Wish they made it in a 5w-40 or even 10w-40. I live in Hawaii now and cold flow isn’t a factor, anything below around 62’f is a record.
Valvoline vs Penzoil next?
YES....PLEASE...!!!😊
I used to use Valvoline back in the 90s because of my dad every time I tore a engine down it would be so full of sludge even engines that had nothing wrong just wanted to see how the oil was doing this was back before I started using full synthetic I ended up switching to Pennzoil on a fresh rebuild and the engine looked new still 50k later using stranded oil now with synthetic so abundant seems like there closer to the same but I still stick with Pennzoil platinum!!!!!!!
Oh wow nooo valvoline is nowhere near the level of Pennzoil. Valvoline cannot even compete with Wal-Mart brand oil. To clarify Wal-Mart oil is very good. Remember valvoline have to make thier oil at a price point that keeps their oil change services competitive. Which neans the oil itself must be bottom barrel price to make. Other oil companies don't nees to factor in oil changed locations and competitors oil change prices.
Valvoline restore & protect
@TonicofSonic That's interesting. My mom bought a 2 year old car with 30k miles on it back in '01 ('99 Chevy Malibu 2.3 4 cylinder) My sister bought it in '07 with 130k on it. It was totaled in a fender bender in '10 with 189k. Had Valvoline semi synthetic run through it till 75k, then switched to Valvoline Max Life semi synthetic for the duration of its life. Oil was changed every 3000 miles. All servicing was performed at by Valvoline oil change franchises. A Co worker who was a car guy bought it from her because he wanted the engine to rebuild as he was a fan of the "quad 4" and had built and sold many of them. He told her it was the cleanest one he had ever disassembled. No mention of any sludge at all. Bearings only showed minor signs of wear. Just my 2 cents.
Glad to get a reason for my AMS OIL being Reddish at 3 K mile changes... thanks...my philosophy is change it early vs waiting for too long.
Any chance we can get an evaluation of Ester base engine oil such as Motul 300V?
I love the stock footage @5:53 of the guy sucking on a cigarette in the background, hahaaaa.......... Thanks Lake, been waiting for this video!!
Can't help but chime in on Mobil1, I'm hesitant to use another brand because I love the Mobil1 5 quart jugs, they're designed to pour oil without spilling, on my Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV lease I use Quaker State 0W-20... it's a little cheaper than the Mobil1 but at the first oil change I noticed it was definitely NOT a Mobil1 bottle 😆. I charged the filter and oil went everywhere, I wasn't used to the way it just pours out. Obviously this isn't a good reason to choose one oil over another but I do regular driving and change my oil every 4k miles so I think just about any oil is probably good for my application. It's more important to change your oil when it needs to be changed vs. looking for a specific brand with a specific additive package but to each his own.
@@justacinnamonbun8658 Totally my thoughts on oil changes, especially being into off road bikes where I'm likely contaminating my oil with dust particles if I leave it a long time.
What drives me nuts is that my 2024 Venza requires 4 1/2 qts of oil. Why didn't they make that oil pan 1/8" deeper?
I run Mobil1 in a 2011 VW MK6 GTI. It has a turbo and it is considered a "hot hatch" I drive it pretty hard. It has 103k miles on it. I have had no issues with the engine. I do change the oil every 3k not 5 and certainly not 10k. Depending on how you drive (long or short distances often) and how hard you drive the vehicle will help determine if you can go 5k instead of 3k. Oil is not that expensive. If you have car ramps anyone can do an oil change in about 20 to 30 min (the longest process is waiting for the oil to stop dripping) . Those raps are like 50 bucks ... 100 bucks if you go for the really nice ones. Worth it. Basically if the oil meets manufacturer specs and you change it every 3k or 5k... your good. If you were racing it or it was modded out then it might matter a bit more due to heat and load issues. For most this is not an issue. Also break in period. Change the oil at the first 1000 miles then at 3000, and then every 3000 or 5000 thereafter. That break in oil has lost of crap in it. You want to get it out.
Hey Lake, Super relevant to your channel and something of recent discussion I think worth covering would be the new C40 GT spec that came about when the X3 M1 changed to X4 at the beginning of the year.
As always, thanks for the work you do!
There was a time that I wouldnt use Pennzoil for chainsaw bar oil. We used to call it Sludgeoil and I had seen it take out many engines.Im sure it now bears no resemblance to the old Pennzoil
Mobil 1 has apparently been around 50 years, I first used in in 1979.
As far as Im concerned, any synthetic oil is fine in late model vehicles, and that includes Warren Oil Companys Super Tech.
Once again a great video and I continue to use Pennzoil knowing it works and works well all while being priced right.
Man, I've been using the SuperTech cheapo Walmart brand and a Fram filter for years. It's not that I want to. But, I don't make a ton of money and it's what I can afford. I just changed it every 4,000 miles. Have over 300,000 miles on my Armada and It's still going with that cheap oil. If I could afford the more expensive stuff I'd probably use it. But I know that as long as you change oil with the cheap stuff, it seems to work just fine.
Thank you for posting this.
The most important thing is to change your oil every 5K miles or less.
Doesn't matter if it's synthetic or not. Synthetic is still oil.
I concur. Consistency is the key. Regardless of oil and filter type. Good job!
I'd love to see the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum compared to the Valvoline Protect and Restore.
I am constantly telling my family to double flush!
I truly enjoy watching your videos. Any chance you'll be reviewing Redline oil, more specifically 0w-40?
I would like to see how Motul 8100 and 300v series compare!
Great suggestion
@@themotoroilgeek 8100 Power 5W30 vs 300V 5W30
I would like you to stress test both to 150degree for 20mins and repeat 4 times.
This is the exact video I need because I’ve been using mobile one in all my vehicles since I was a kid but I’ve seen all these videos about Pennzoil ultra platinum so I’m torn lol
I have ran Mobil1 in all my cars for years. I have never had engine issues. I don't think it matters that much ... what really matters is to half the oil interval your car manufacturer suggest. If you drive hard or have a turbo or short drives.... Every 3k. Thats it. The oils now a days is way better than just 10 years ago. I do not trust it to go 10k though. That is just asking for trouble. 2 or 3 oil changes a year max is not that much and worth being able to have a car for over 200k.
I thought your prior video on Valvoline Restore was newest oil that dissolves deposits on pistons and rings among other internals. I am skeptical of Pennzoil as when I purchased a Ford powered boat new the dealer stated they only use Valvoline lubes in their dealership and for me never to use Pennzoil. I assumed that was merely personal preference.
The guy probably heard some urban legend about Pennzoil from 50 years ago.
There is no way using a Pennzoil with the current certifications could be a problem.
@@skylinefever yes, the sae certifications are the key, as this video shows different certifications means different oil. The guy that refer was a new boat dealer however and highly advised against the P brand.
Last I checked Pennnzoil doesn’t claim to CLEAN existing deposits on pistons. It claims to KEEP them CLEAN! Big difference. Most modern oils do a very poor job of cleaning baked on carbon (piston rings). Valvoline Restore & Protect can’t be compared to Pennzoil here.
Love your channel. I’ve learned a lot and find it very interesting. Please do a test on SYN3 Harley Davidson oil for all the Harley riders out there. This oil is expensive and they do not put any specs on the bottle so a person has no idea what specs it meets. Thanks for the time you invest in this.
Great suggestion!
BITOG is yer friend!
Love the channel, currently using Pennzoil UP in my 2018 Ram 6.4. Have you done anything on why they spec’ed this oil for a truck engine?
I would love to see him talk about things like using diesel oil with correct viscosities in mowers or difference between oils with same viscosity but labeled for different type engines.
I've used PP and PUP almost exclusively since it's been released. Mobil1 was factory fill and first 4 changes on the last 3 vehicles. I find Pennzoil makes it quieter on startup and slightly improved oil pressure. (Needle width on gage). I tried Shell/Rotella "gas truck & suv". It would come out in "blood clots". Never touched it again.
On my John Deere diesel tractors, I change the oil and filter and then a week later do the process all over again. I have found doing this that the oil stays clear way longer than if I do only one oil change per interval. In my cars, I have run lately only Pennzoil because of your videos.
Lake, great info as always. I'm curious on the "forbidden glitter" found in some oils. I know it is normally a sign of bearing material and other nasties, but have you seen cerakote cause this in the oil samples you've looked at? I ran ceratek in a Macan Turbo for 2 years, and when I drained the oil, I saw the glitter every time. I pulled the pan to see if there was any notable play in the big end of the roads, but I forgot it has a dry sump. Anyways, when I pulled the pan, there was a fairly thick (1/4" in some spots) fairly hard crap in the pan. I got even more worried when I saw that so I pulled off the valve covers and even took out the cam phasers to check the screens, and there was zero visible trash in the VVT screens, and zero visible glitter on top of the head, and what I would consider perfectly normal looking cam lobes. I cleaned out the pan, put in new oil, ran it for a few miles, changed it again, still saw glitter, but less of it. Ran another 500 or so miles, changed it again, and much less glitter. I plan to take the current oil 3000-5000 miles and then send you the oil sample just to get reassurance (I am using my remaining stash of M1 Euro 0w-40, the kind I know not to run now). But I specifically mention the ceratec because I found some other anecdotal posts where others noticed the same glitter, which according to others is boron.
And yep, I stopped using ceratec once I saw your additive videos...this old dog can learn new tricks!
I recall seeing posts on BITOG stating that they found Ceratec would fall out of suspension if it sat around long enough. There was math and everything to try and estimate the particle fall-out rate... based on how long it would take for certain sized particles to stop moving.. (above my pay grade lol) I've been using ceratec on my 04 cayenne turbo for the last ~50k miles. All I can say is that I noticed the motor made a tuk-tuk noise when I acquired it, at around 97k miles. After putting in ceratec, that was immediately quieted down. I know the Coyote mustang guys have noted a similar reduction in their "bbq tick" noise. The reason I chose to put in the ceratec was not so much due to the noise - but due to fears of the "bore scoring" issue that is well-documented on the cayenne v8 engines. At the time, the bore scoring data seemed to show that mostly it was the non-turbo, but that it did happen to the turbos, as well. It also seemed to be correlated with cold weather, and not changing oil on time. The oil change interval stated by porsche was I think 15k miles for the 1st gen?? I may be mistaken, and it was only 10. Anyway - the thought was that the clearance in between the piston skirt, and the cylinder wall, was incorrectly manufactured in certain engines. This caused scuffing and eventually, the scoring. Apparently, scuffing is an "extreme pressure" wear mode. Like what you'd find in a differential, or manual transmission between the gear teeth. So normal motor oils don't do very well to prevent it, but especially, the engines without oil squirters ( non -turbos) and motors where the oil was getting abused heavily were the most likely to suffer this problem. Enter people theorizing about ceratec. So from what have gathered, the ceratec contains two things that we're interested in: There's the boron, apparently in nano-sized particles of hexagonal boron nitride (HBN) which is in suspension, and there's molybdenum, in the form of ammonium molybdate, which is in solution. (Data taken from VOA on Ceratec posted on BITOG)
I've seen what I believe you are referring to as the "glitter", at every oil change using the ceratec. I would more describe it as a pearl. It shines, less sparkles, and there's almost the kind of stratification or "ballooning" of different darkness-profiles of this in the oil. The oil mix is a milk-chocolate to lighter amber color, perhaps becoming almost gold or silvery. It would make sense as apparently the HBN will form mono-atomic thickness filaments under EP and heat, that will then slough-off as a sacrificial wear layer. Much like molybdenum does, but apparently with more surface hardness. So this is the supposed ceramic component, in the ceratec. At first, I was more interested in this - however I really don't have enough evidence to say that isn't snake oil. However, it's pretty proven that moly is a great anti-wear additive. The only problem is that a product like the LM MoS2 seems to have moly in suspension - and when the moly is applied, & then gets kind of "used up" like an additive package; Instead of getting picked back up and dispersed, it can accumulate in the piston ring grooves or other places. I guess it also will "drop out" if not stirred up enough, like what we're seeing presumably of the HBN in the ceratec.
So the ceratec supposedly has moly in solution - meaning that when it's used up, you drain the oil and the moly comes out to be replenished at the next change without accumulating in sensitive areas. So this became more of my thought. Perhaps the boron or HBN truly does function in the ceratec but if anything it's an expensive boutique moly. One way or another, I was able to find a few UOA of the same Cayenne Turbo using ceratec in conjunction with Rotella T6 (older formulation), used in a Cayenne Turbo. I believe it was on one of the Porsche forums, rennlist or 6speed. Anyway, the UOAs reflected good wear numbers and a good TBN after ~7k miles, iirc. This coincided with my choices as typically I would change the 8.5qts and WIX filter at 6-7.5k miles. I can actually feel and hear how the engine runs worse the closer I get to that 7500 mile number. Of course, someone else's UOA does not necessarily apply to my engine..
In any case, I've taken this engine from 97k to just over 151k now, using mainly the T6 5w40 or 0w40, and utilizing 2 bottles of ceratec (!) per change. Or just a few ounces less than that. Attempting to use the Ceratec at the 6% by vol stated. Of course this is getting pretty expensive considering how much one bottle of ceratec costs, especially nowadays! I am moving away from T6 as an oil in all in my gas vehicles now, as M1 0w40 FS Euro or PUP definitely seem better. Even PP seems better, now that T6 has lost all gas certs. Subie guys have mostly gone away from the "Brotella" as well, due to the lack of anti-foaming additives for anything that revs over ~4k like a diesel. This is a whole 'nother discussion.
When I'm getting close to the end of my oil change interval, I do find I've lost over 1mpg (on a vehicle that barely manages 18mpg down the highway, it's easily noticeable in the onboard fuel economy monitor). Like I said I can absolutely feel it in the engine's performance as well, the throttle response, it's willingness to just lug it's 5200lbs down the highway. It's abysmal, I feel like I am beating the poor thing to death just cruising 80mph up a mountain. It would stand to reason that the Ceratec is actually getting used up before the oil itself. Though I'm certain the oil wouldn't be good much longer, either. The times I've pushed past 7500 miles, it's almost scary how things start to feel.. (timing chain rattles especially at startup-from the tensioner presumably? Squeaking... from the chain guides? Or.. is it the bore getting destroyed??)
In any case this is a very long-winded way of saying, I think that there might be more to the ceratec than Lake is currently aware of. At least when it comes to these *very* specific circumstances (the possible EP conditions existing between piston skirt and cylinder wall due to manufacturing defect). I do think that my motor was developing bore scoring before my ownership, and that the ceratec has possibly been helping to stave it off. Believe me I would truly like to stop dropping the $50-60 or more on JUST Ceratec, that would almost halve my oil change cost.
More evidence to this point is that the further I push the oil, and the thinner it gets, the more likely I am to have a misfire on cold-startup. Which is 100% correlated with the bore-scoring allowing oil to enter the combustion chamber, which eventually fouls out the spark plug. After a good run on fresh oil and ceratec, the same plug seemed to be much less likely to give a misfire on that specific cylinder. I believe it's cylinder 3 or 4 on mine. Usually the bore scoring seems to happen in the rear cyls of these motors -like 7 or 8, or 3 or 4. In any case, people say that the bore scoring will progress until you are changing out plugs every thousand miles, or even less, due to the qty of oil being consumed in that cylinder. That would indicate that the motor is not long for this world, before the metals contamination and everything catches up to it, and it's basically inop. Before you say anything, I have since changed that specific plug to a new(er) NGK that I gapped correctly. One or two other cyls "asked" for new plugs and got them, but that one cylinder was absolutely my "problem child". Yes I'm a cheap bastard driving this Porsche, but when you understand the low cost of entry, and the high maintenance, you want to find ways to slow the bleed. I've swapped the Transfer case oil 3+ times in 10k just to go from silvery scary to nice red with a silvery purple in between. Luckily it only takes 1qt~ per change, but the Redline high temp D4 I used is $20+ per L. The list of things I've done to this beast is a mile long.
I may be completely off base here, I have nothing to offer except anecdotal evidence and theories about extreme pressure wear and failure modes. This isn't my only vehicle, but I am finding joy in trying to run this engine for as many miles as I can. It sure is expensive, if only in fuel, brakes and tires. I'd love to drop the ceratec but honestly, I think that might be a fatal mistake. I'm sure it would be difficult to truly find evidence as to what is going on without tearing down the motor. I don't know how we could tell if the ceratec is actually helping to stave off bore scoring in this specific instance. I doubt any boroscope would help, let alone my cheap $20 one. All I know is that the science seems sound in my head and I know how my engine has acted for the last 50k. If Lake chimed in about any part of this, I would be ecstatic! Even if I could just better understand it all! :)
@the3chordwonder Also, to add on to my massive reply, the fact you found 1/4" of hardened crap in your Macan's oil pan is kind of scary. I do have that cheap boroscope I mentioned and I've been running the Ceratec for many years now. (There are vids on my channel of this Cayenne). The cayenne is a hybrid wet/dry sump apparently - I could likely stick my little boroscope inside one or the other of the Cayenne's drain holes during my next oil change. I never see anything accumulated on the bottom of the oil filter canister though, and also I tear the filters apart and look through the pleating each time. The worst I've found were some metal flakes, and one time, a very aged piece of plastic that I'd venture was a small piece of timing chain guide 😬 Perhaps I could stick the boroscope inside my valve cover via the oil filler hole, as well. In any case I think this topic warrants more exploration, even if just by at-home mad scientists like myself, if not the professionals like Lake the Motor Oil Geek here 😊
@@ShivaShakur Thank you very much, and you will find this very on point, because I have a Coyote, with the BBQ Tick, and that is how I discovered CeraTec in the first place. I also used to have a 2008 Dodge Ram with 250k miles and it sounded bad. This Macan Turbo sounds quite bad almost like it has rod knock when it is idling, but the noise goes away off idle. I think some of it is the stupid variable-vane oil pump nonsense (Thanks EPA). I do not think there is a way to disable via PIWIS, and I don't have other tuners like COBB, etc. But with the VVT setup, and dry sump system, I wouldn't be surprised if the ECU expects the oil pressures to be lower and compensates for it in tables I wouldn't know about, hence my apprehension about yanking the solenoid connector and/or trying to disable via the ECU. (On my Ecoboost F150, I do have it disabled, very easy to do and I believe it helps with the cam phaser issues with that engine). This whole ordeal stemmed from the infamous Macan timing cover oil leak, and I didn't want to do a half-(You know what) repair on it, so I basically pulled the entire front end off the suv and it gave me the opportunity to check things like the timing chain tension (Good), tensioner (Good), oil pump chain (Very difficult to tell because it is almost entirely hidden by the dry sump system, but from what I could tell, had good tension). I saw a small oil seepage from the oil pan, plus I wanted to check for big-end rod clearance, and that's why I pulled off the pan, and consequently found the sludge in the pan. I have owned it for 4 years now, and went from I think 75k miles to right around 100k. I am in a similar situation, I pay myself $0 for labor, so I'm going to keep this girl around as long as I can because I absolutely love the way it drives.
The Ceretec without a doubt made all of the vehicles run quieter, and I am one that is a firm believer in the placebo effect, and am usually very skeptical about magic potions. But on the Mustang, the tick goes completely away, and the Macan gets quieter at idle. (I should note that the oil pressure is definitely within spec, confirmed the gauge with PIWIS). I rebuilt the Ram engine, and the ring lands were stuck, so there was no surprise it ran like crap, and nothing short of a miracle could have fixed it.
I am bad in that I would float between Pennzoil Platinum 0w-40 and M1 0w-40 (Now I won't). If I remember, I will post up my results here after I do the oil analysis, but I don't put a ton of miles on her, so it's going to take until Winter at best.
Off topic, but of interest anyway, the Mustang actually had "Piston Rattle" tables in the ECU to somehow lower the sound. I can't remember, because it's been a while since I looked, but I think the tables get zeroed out for the ford performance pack tunes.
@@The3chordwonder Very interesting! Yeah variable vane tech in oil pumps just seems like a solution looking for a problem. Another failure point. Superb. I am kind of glad I don't have a vehicle that is from that era of technology. Heck it was enough of a pain just to be able to get VCDS to work on my first gen Cayenne. It's crazy that companies like COBB are trying to take away features and software that has been out for years due to the EPA - with this new ruling (Chevron Deference?) perhaps we can start to see more freedom for the individual property owner returning. I believe in having clean air to breathe and water to drink as much as the next person. I'm just not willing to sacrifice my livelihood so that my devices and modes of transport become some kind of disposable item in a few years. Forget EVs with lithium batteries and cloud-connected, tracking your every move lol.. Not to mention being shut down remotely. Like, what kind of clown world...
In any case, that's fascinating about the Mustang piston rattle tables in the ECU... I wonder what they could actually be changing in order to affect that? Fuel/ign delivery timing? Why would there be piston rattles in the first place? Are the Mustang pistons forged? Wouldn't any slap go away once properly warmed up if that were the case?
I wonder how the Ceratec affects oil pressure. Some seem to think that oil pressure is not as necessary as flow - however people in the know have pointed out that the big end bearings are floating on a hydrodynamic wedge and the "centering" of the bearing on the crank surface in the top/bottom orientation, aka, the concentricity, is directly affected by the thickness of this wedge. So it would stand to reason that using a too-thin grade of oil would degrade this concentricity, and I would imagine that too little pressure would do the same. Perhaps my armchair engineering is off-base. Further, the oil pump volume is already directly affected by crankshaft rpm, so I don't see why you would in particular want variable vane tech in the oil pump. Again maybe I am myopic, I'm not automotive engineer. The sad thing is, that we have to be this vigilant and press towards understanding as much of this stuff as we can in order to not get "hoodwinked" by these corporations and their governmental masters.
I tried the Pennzoil Platinum made from natural gas when it first came out. It had very high oil pressure when the engine was cold and had very low oil pressure when the engine reached operating temperature. I drained the oil and never went back. A friend had the same issue.
The red in my oil is from the quart of ATF I dump on top... Ducks and runs...
Do your cam phasers shift position better after doing this?
I’ve really been enjoying your channel, and you have called yourself a ring guy: so I was curious if you could do an in-depth video on ‘ Italian tuneups’ .
Great suggestion!
Love the Porsche!
My owners manual only calls for the Porsche A40 spec. and they make no mention of an API spec. at all. This really grinds my gears because we know that many other (non-A40 spec.) oils are just fine. I figure if my oil has a "SN" spec., I'm good to go. If an oil company chooses to not purchase the A40 designation from Porsche, that doesn't mean the oil won't work.
An SN spec alone will not meet all of the same performance requirements as the A40 spec, but that doesn’t mean some new API SP oils could not do better than the average A40 oil.
Most Euro car makers don't list an API spec which is an American thing. Most like an ACEA or an individual company spec. Porsche website will give you a list of oils that is fairly inclusive of those that meet the A40 spec. With that said you get a A40 oil, but that doesn't necessarily mean you are getting the best oil as many smaller Oil companies don't spend the time or money to test to some of the Euro specs. Some companies list HTHS (High Temp High Shear) requirements but many oils don't list those on the spec sheets either.
Interested to hear your thoughts on the Motul 300V compared to other fancy oil.
@@2001pulsar Lake has mentioned in the past that Motul oil is good stuff and on the same level as Driven oils which is high praise from him imo. The issue is that it's basically the same price so I would just go with Driven unless there's an application they're missing.
@@ZWortek the driven DI40 is the same price as Motul 300V. So really same-same.
@@2001pulsar Yep, I think either oil is about as good as you can do depending on your application.
*Pro Tip:* Hours are a far better gauge of engine use than miles. *I mean, you can go 60 MHP or you can go 30 MPH, you still drove an hour, right?*
I was an Army Mechanic and we didn't change oil at mileage intervals, but pulled samples and had them tested to determine when the oil needed to be changed.
I also worked on a lot of low mileage high hour vehicles where using mileage didn't make any sense at all, so we used hour meters instead. You can get these and install them on your vehicle BTW.
I personally wouldn't rely on your results as a scientific base because of the simple fact that mileage on a vehicles chassis doesn't correlate with hours on a vehicles engine.
I'd like to see Mobile One's extended mileage tested under those conditions.
Oh man, this leaves me with more questions than answers:
1. You said you doubt the new Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 (Euro car formula) contains PAO, but you’ll check. Instead you showed the results for super car formula. I’m dying to see the spectrum analysis for Mobil 1 euro 0w-40, because their current msds lists 1-decene, homopolymer hydrogenated at 25-50%, which I think is PAO. Now I’m wondering if their MSDS is BS, pun intended.
2. When you suggest for us, mortal non-tribolobist folk, to pick out oil according to spec, please keep in mind that the Pennz Ultra Pla 0w-40 doesn’t have any approvals/recommendations listed other than Chrysler. None listed for your Porsche, and none for my Benz. While it’s apparently a great oil, someone seeing the lack of manufacturer-specific approvals or recommendations could be having second thoughts.
Love the videos and can’t wait to watch the follow up!
I too come away with more questions than answers from most of Lake's videos; he's great at being inconsistent where he wants to be, and of picking which information to mention or not mention to keep us a bit confused.
This. Too inconsistent to truly believe anything
And some of us drive cars with flat tappet cams that specify API SF and have viscosity recommendations that don't reflect the existence of synthetic oils.
@@bluetoes591 I never thought of that, wow. I was convinced most of us drive super cars and would therefore most folk use super car oil.
On a more serious note:
Am I the only one who thinks that demonstrating how different Mobil 1 Supercar oil is from Pnz UP 0w40 is less useful for most consumers, whereas Pnz UP 0w-40 should actually be compared to Mobil 1 FS 0W-40, which is a more realistic use case competitor?
EXCELLENT video keep up the good job its very helpful ... Thank you ... I've been using Pennzoil for years..
I'd like to see Castrol's 4 different weights of Euro Car compared. 0w30, 5w30, 0w40, and 5w40.
Another interesting video . I wish Pennzoil made JASO 10w40 motorcycle oil :)