Based on the location and the way it's connected between the Ethernet jack ground and the PCB top ground pour, I suspect that this is a suppression component, possibly a TVS or a similar device. Providing a few high-resolution pictures of the component, its location, and the nearby parts could help point me in the right direction.
Check if the polarity in your supply into Starlink is right... at a cursory glance it looks like it may be a reverse polarity protection diode OR TVS device... maybe some others can help positively identifying the part if you share higher resolution images...
Thx so much for your help. Try these pics for context and higher rez. photos.app.goo.gl/a4ffe57u1YDh8pEx5 The part is burnt on top but I can make out a logo, I think, and the numbers 229.
Let's collaborate on this! Indeed, it appears to be a "standard" BY220 schottky Diode, likely serving as reverse protection. I did contemplate the possibility of the connector having reversed polarity. However, to the best of my knowledge, with proper POE implementation, polarity should not be critical, as most designs include a full bridge rectifier at the incoming DC+ and DC-. However, I suspect this PCB lacks one. I believe the connector may have been wired incorrectly. The diode is a straightforward fix, and the trace can be repaired. However, the PCB in this area needs thorough cleaning and may benefit from the expertise of someone who is well-versed in these matters. If you're fortunate, the large black LAN transformer might have effectively shielded the valuable circuitry behind it and could possibly remain unscathed. Edit: Also thanks for uploading the pics :)
Thx for the detailed reply. Given these conditions: - I'm travelling in remote parts of Australia - I only have access to a butane soldering iron - My soldering skills are okay for non-surface mount components - I have bad eyesight ...that I try this plan (Worst case is the board is still dead after I butcher it) 1. Buy this regular sized component: www.jaycar.com.au/by229-fast-diode/p/ZR1028 2. Desolder and hopefully remove existing surface mount diode 3. Use jumper wires to attach purchased diode from 1. to circuit 4. Use jumper wires to bypass burnt trace(s)? 5. Fix the POE wiring issue I have :) 6. Cross my fingers Does this sound feasible?
@@AUSY8 The BY229 diode might be a bit of an overkill, in my humble opinion. Soldering SMD components of that size isn't particularly challenging; all you need are some tweezers. It doesn't have to look perfect; functionality is what matters. However, a butane iron and poor eyesight can be a bit problematic. I've seen individuals with impaired vision accomplish impressive PCB rework, but they had access to microscopes and high-quality tools in our labs. At the moment, the link is non-functional, and you can't make it worse, especially if there's no one in your area who can assist you or even do it four you. Your evident enthusiasm is often half the battle won. I'd be willing to help for free, but I'm based in Germany. Your plan sounds fine, but I would still consider obtaining the SMD diode :) Before you inadvertently make things worse while performing the repair, it might be a good idea to leave it as is, do some research, get some rest. This approach has saved me a lot of money and frustration in the past! :D
when you opened the dishy, you disconnected the starlink cable, why did you not just cut the wire coming out of the pole, took it out and made a new rj45 connector swapped going to the POE ? Then from POE swapped out and T568B to your after market router.
I was trying to smart and preserve as much of the original setup as possible and only cut the cable of the cheap $60 ethernet adapter. You can see where that landed me.
*Man, why didn't you just buy the YAOSHENG RJ45 to SPX adapter?* It's like 30 bucks... 😉 As for the burnt part, it looks like a reverse polarity protection diode to me. I think you should be quite fine only removing it as a temporary fix to see if anything else got damaged. But really make sure you have the power wired correctly this time. 😅
I just did. I have ordered one and expect it soon :) I was trying to avoid a lot of excess cable just lying around in the car. Anyway the moral of the story is double/triple check your wiring.
Thx. The other upside, that I did not mention in the vid, is that we do still have a working dish, but I dare not mess with that one for fear I cut the other half off from the interwebs.
Yeah it may have been. I never did look for the root cause, which can be a failing of mine. As you may have seen from a later video I did get it going with new wiring.
Thx @kluashartmann6388. If you look at more recent videos in my channel you can see I have revived Dishy and it is now working with 12v only, no POE. This is a great result.
Based on the location and the way it's connected between the Ethernet jack ground and the PCB top ground pour, I suspect that this is a suppression component, possibly a TVS or a similar device. Providing a few high-resolution pictures of the component, its location, and the nearby parts could help point me in the right direction.
Thx @steelcuts. See some pics showing the damage in my reply posts to @sayanchx
Check if the polarity in your supply into Starlink is right... at a cursory glance it looks like it may be a reverse polarity protection diode OR TVS device... maybe some others can help positively identifying the part if you share higher resolution images...
Thx so much for your help. Try these pics for context and higher rez. photos.app.goo.gl/a4ffe57u1YDh8pEx5
The part is burnt on top but I can make out a logo, I think, and the numbers 229.
I found another burn mark on the PCB, I fear this is going to harder than it looks.
photos.app.goo.gl/PMcxHJqHKKFiSjcb9
Let's collaborate on this! Indeed, it appears to be a "standard" BY220 schottky Diode, likely serving as reverse protection. I did contemplate the possibility of the connector having reversed polarity. However, to the best of my knowledge, with proper POE implementation, polarity should not be critical, as most designs include a full bridge rectifier at the incoming DC+ and DC-. However, I suspect this PCB lacks one.
I believe the connector may have been wired incorrectly. The diode is a straightforward fix, and the trace can be repaired. However, the PCB in this area needs thorough cleaning and may benefit from the expertise of someone who is well-versed in these matters. If you're fortunate, the large black LAN transformer might have effectively shielded the valuable circuitry behind it and could possibly remain unscathed.
Edit: Also thanks for uploading the pics :)
Thx for the detailed reply. Given these conditions:
- I'm travelling in remote parts of Australia
- I only have access to a butane soldering iron
- My soldering skills are okay for non-surface mount components
- I have bad eyesight
...that I try this plan (Worst case is the board is still dead after I butcher it)
1. Buy this regular sized component: www.jaycar.com.au/by229-fast-diode/p/ZR1028
2. Desolder and hopefully remove existing surface mount diode
3. Use jumper wires to attach purchased diode from 1. to circuit
4. Use jumper wires to bypass burnt trace(s)?
5. Fix the POE wiring issue I have :)
6. Cross my fingers
Does this sound feasible?
@@AUSY8 The BY229 diode might be a bit of an overkill, in my humble opinion. Soldering SMD components of that size isn't particularly challenging; all you need are some tweezers. It doesn't have to look perfect; functionality is what matters. However, a butane iron and poor eyesight can be a bit problematic. I've seen individuals with impaired vision accomplish impressive PCB rework, but they had access to microscopes and high-quality tools in our labs.
At the moment, the link is non-functional, and you can't make it worse, especially if there's no one in your area who can assist you or even do it four you. Your evident enthusiasm is often half the battle won. I'd be willing to help for free, but I'm based in Germany.
Your plan sounds fine, but I would still consider obtaining the SMD diode :)
Before you inadvertently make things worse while performing the repair, it might be a good idea to leave it as is, do some research, get some rest. This approach has saved me a lot of money and frustration in the past! :D
when you opened the dishy, you disconnected the starlink cable, why did you not just cut the wire coming out of the pole, took it out and made a new rj45 connector swapped going to the POE ? Then from POE swapped out and T568B to your after market router.
I was trying to smart and preserve as much of the original setup as possible and only cut the cable of the cheap $60 ethernet adapter. You can see where that landed me.
*Man, why didn't you just buy the YAOSHENG RJ45 to SPX adapter?* It's like 30 bucks... 😉
As for the burnt part, it looks like a reverse polarity protection diode to me. I think you should be quite fine only removing it as a temporary fix to see if anything else got damaged. But really make sure you have the power wired correctly this time. 😅
I just did. I have ordered one and expect it soon :)
I was trying to avoid a lot of excess cable just lying around in the car. Anyway the moral of the story is double/triple check your wiring.
Ethernet jack you wired up, did not follow the T568B wiring, you appear to have swapped the green & green stripe with blue & blue stripe
that's interesting. I thought I was very careful there. Its still works, would it impact performance?
Never let the magic smoke get out. 😂 Sorry you had the issue - hope you can fix it and get back on the Interweb. Cheers
Thx. The other upside, that I did not mention in the vid, is that we do still have a working dish, but I dare not mess with that one for fear I cut the other half off from the interwebs.
That sound was too painful to hear, sorry you fried the starlink. Good luck finding that part so you can resurrect your frankenstarlink 😊
Thx @@AutosNGizmos I think I need all the good luck I can get at this point. I hope others learn from my mistake.
Based on your last video I just watched it does look like you have the star link adapter backwards, that cable should be connected to the 48 volt POE.
Yeah it may have been. I never did look for the root cause, which can be a failing of mine. As you may have seen from a later video I did get it going with new wiring.
Ouch. Cutting and modifying cables can lead to tears (I have found!).
Tell me about it
Sir i am from the Philippines, i want to request on how to get ethernet port line from the starlink router diy?
Not sure, there information out there but the official Starlink ethernet adapter is fairly cheap USD60. Have you considered that option?
Look on Your Photos
Thx @kluashartmann6388. If you look at more recent videos in my channel you can see I have revived Dishy and it is now working with 12v only, no POE. This is a great result.