When Amtrak started receiving the GE E60 locomotive's we had the same problem for the first two months of service as the type F couplers ( draw bars ) were new and anytime you get a new drawbar they are a royal pain to get the pin to drop. I was attempting to couple onto an Amtrak train at New Haven, ct. Station that was 18 cars of new Amfleet equipment. A double whammy! It took us ( me and the car knockers ) over 15 minutes to finally get both pins to drop with by that time the station Trainmaster and the stationmaster there offering their two cents. The fix? Take a tennis ball and some glue. Glues the ball to the inside of the knuckle and couple up with a pop as the ball is destroyed but both knuckles closed and the pin dropped. I had one in my bag and after 12 minutes of trying to get them to drop made the suggestion one knuckle was closed manually and that was a pain in the rear because even slamming the knuckle closed by hand it took over 20 tries before the pin fell, then jammed the tennis ball into the coupler and tried it and with a pop the pin dropped. You would have thought we won the lottery everyone was so happy. Two months later after they broke in no more problems. The glue? Blow pop chewing gum. I totally hate new drawbars the manufacturers need to make a small machine that opens and closes the drawbars to break them in before they go into service as it will save a lot and I mean a lot of aggravation.
Thank you for the good and valid information - that really helps the railroad lovers and hobbyists learning more without being brushed off with stupid commenters. Ciao, L
This is what happens when you forget to remove the flash from the castings before assembling the Kadee 1:1 scale knuckle coupler kits! :) And don't forget to drill and tap for the 2-56 screw to mount the draft gear box on with!
Step one: remove knuckle pin. 2: raise op-lever to remove knuckle. 3: lower lever and slowly re-raise lever pulling lock block forward to hang it out from front of coupler (don't pinch fingers). 4: apply grease to both sides of lock block where it engages knuckle and coupler. 5: tip lock block back into coupler, press lightly on face of lock block (don't pinch fingers) raise lever slowly guiding lock into the top pocket. 6: with lock raised, re-install knuckle. Apply grease to the flat spot on the right side of the heel of the knuckle where it engages the lock. 7: re-install knuckle pin. If gravity won't drop the lock when the couplers come in contact with knuckles closed, establish whatever in-between protection that applies to you be it blue signal/ set and center, etc. take a bar through the lock lift and wiggle it down. This is the solution to new couplers that are "tight" from not being worn in yet. If you have an old worn coupler and parts aren't available, close the worn knuckle until it locks. Once locked, verify good alignment with the other coupler by doing a dry run where you stop mere inches apart. (Requires good engineer). Then bring it back with a little "love". (bring consist to a 2 mph roll and just let em bump)
James Shanks suddenly grease applied to a part will make it defy the laws of gravity? Nowhere in the CFR 215, or the AAR manual does it forbid greasing a coupler component. In fact there are couplers that specify lubricant when they are disassembled for any reason and others that specify lubricant whenever components are replaced. It may say somewhere to never apply lubricant to the inside pulling face of a knuckle, which makes perfect sense, however that's not what I specified to lubricate.
gravelydon absolutely great idea. We use graphite to lubricate coupler carriers. I said grease in my earlier post because if you don't have any fresh on you, there's always some greasy something around to rob some off of. However I absolutely agree that dry lubricants are superior in dusty or outdoor applications for the exact reasons you specified.
Dylan, Even rubbing a pencil on the parts can help. But you are right about the grease being readily available. Just grab some off of a steam engine if you have one handy. ;-)
It seems that, most of the people that have commented have never operated a locomotive, acted as a switchman or even viewed live and up close to a train coupling up. It doesn't matter if there are 2 couplers open or not; curve in the tracks doesn't matter; a higher speed doesn't always help and they're coupling up with a passenger car. Cant do too high of a speed while coupling. I'm able to hear that couplers close, but the coupler pin on the car is not dropping into place.
I believe if I owned either the KCS unit or the passenger car and saw someone wanting to ' RAM ' them together as a couple below suggested, I would have their ignorant butts run off.
Ok guys come in a bit harder? Let's see you do that with the CEO of the railroad on board the company private car assigned to him, they are doing it exactly the way I did it when coupling onto live passenger cars. You handle passenger cars with kid gloves because freight cars can't come out and give you dirty looks or have a quick conversation with a Trainmaster or Roadforeman of engines. And the last thing you want is to hear you caused someone to fall when you tied on to the passenger cars. The 4 mph maximum coupling speed definitely does not apply when coupling up to live passenger cars.
Usually when you can't lift a pin and it appears stuck it's simply pressure against the knuckle shove the cars together and that should release the pressure from however I've seen one coupler like you describe and it turned out to be a mouse nest, a number 50 burner for 10 minutes and then it finally opened . We cleaned out the remains and after that it worked fine.
I think it is the only experience these guys had as well!!! Just need to go a bit harder. When they don't close first time then pull away... shut the jaw that is still open then open the opposite jaw. Try again... bingo! Job done.
Man they're acting like those clamps are plastic and fragile. I've heard trains hit so hard trying to latch that it sounded like a train crashed sending a ripple down each car.
Kenneth Barbee. I have been on passenger cars. Where the locomotive engineer would accelorate so fast after each and every stop. That all you heard was a very loud BOOOM BOOOM BOOOM BOOOM. BOOOM BOOOM by then we were shaking and rocking back and forth. When he stopped the same thing BOOOM BOOOM BOOOM BOOOM BOOOM BOOOM with a very strong, ear pearcing. SSSSCCCCRRRREEEEEEEEEEEEECCCCCCCHHHHHHH. Then we'd get all throwen around again. I have experienced it quite often.
Steven Rice. To whom are you communicating too? Post your comment by the name of the person. To whom you wish to get a responce from. Or you'er just defeating the purpose of creating and posting your statement.
Lock Pin is stuck and won't allow it to hitch. It is a Pushing Cushion Hitch, They had a lot of problems with them back in the 50s - 70's They were built in Atchison , Kansas
I ain't no expert here... but i know in the early days many roads had to customize their E and F unit pilots for situations like this- nose to nose etc. They were designed to haul cab front, that coupler was 'suppose to be' for rare occasions. And in the heyday of observations, the open air end didn't always 'safely' couple to everything else out there, sometimes only until the first tight switch. No one in this video looked over 40, so there was a lot of muscle and ego, but not much ol time experience... one or the other should have been turned around.. but that ain't always available any more either... so how did this turn out? Who's insurance paid for the tinwork damage?
looks to me that he did an excellent job,,,soft and easy. The problem appears to be the coupler units. They must be rough and rusty, otherwise the ramps woulda slid the coupling pin smoothly and theywoulda coupled.
This is your modern railroading. Ridiculous "safety" rules make coupling cars a burdensome task. Plus, you have officials present here. In the old days if the joint doesn't make, separate the knuckles by a foot or two, kick the coupler into position with your feet, make the coupling and get on with life.
1990s Railfan and how many of the old guys ended up on disability retirement because their leg, foot, or hip hurt? How many lost a foot from slack action? Old ways may have sped up time but it cost the men in the long run
They were being way to safe! Most places like these are regulated by FRA regulations the same as the big guys on the block like UP and CSX, etc. Why they kept pulling away some 50 ft. from the engine, I don't know, but they needed at least 3 mph to lock the couplers then all of 5 seconds to connect the brake line and another 5-6 seconds to attach the electric cable.
Really the kansas city street car needs to have engineers who previously worked for BNSF or Union Pacific, since the street car keeps hit cars in the intersection.
We had the oldest Budd built car that met Amtrak requirements. You had to smack it at times to get it coupled even though the CS couplers had been on it since the 40s. After the original non-CS couplers that were on it in 1937 were replaced. The cars are not all that wimpy but the items inside can be. Don't break the china.
Never have both couplers open. Close one, open one. Come in easy but firm. It's a train, not a pocket watch. And it doesn't take the conductor plus 3 on the ground. That's why railroaders don't like these volunteer operations. It's not play. Get the job done.
ironmatic 1 keeping one closed lets the two center up faster and minimizes the likely of that a bin won't drop. Only need one open coupler. The best news on the engine get used the most, so better to leave that one open and close the mating one. The whole idea is to save time and motion.
Thank You! It only takes one knuckle open to make the joint, I'm always getting on to my brakemen for wasting time opening the knuckle. It cuts the chances of having the pin not drop in half.
Tarletan Hale I agree. Only one person needed. And it's not necessary to back out that far to recouple. The problem with many volunteer crews, aside from inexperience, is they tend to overdo everything. I've seen as many as 4 people giving hand signals when the conductor has a radio. That's how people get hurt.
Leaving both knuckles open while switching is great because it leaves a much larger target for the knuckles to hit, especially if it's on a curve. Saves time from having to go again. I know this from firsthand experience.
MrDejast gaffer tape is the best. Clothes too loose? Gaffer tape. Something rolling away? Gaffer tape. Need to block out that logo? Gaffer tape. Stick some cables to the ground? Gaffer tape. Wanna hook up two old trains? Gaffer tape. What comes in a variety of colors? Gaffer tape. Gaffer tape gaffer tape gaffer tape!
You all realize the F unit is a static display right? it's only a cosmetic restoration. It spends 6 months at a time, out in the open, getting shit on by pigeons by the bridge, while it rusts. Does anything work well when it's rusted up?
no .... and it had some sort of cardboard bridges and trestles but i was the kind of kid that needed to see just how it worked and i got some tools from my dads garage and took it apart .... bad little boy
At a guess, because the F unit is going to be towed and not under power. I have heard that when towing an unpowered locomotive, it is common to put a car between it and the powered locomotive as a buffer. Not sure why.
That's kind of what's going on here. The F unit is donated to union station and is a cosmetic restoration, it does not run. The cars are all private cars. The two tracks there are used to store the various private cars that come in and out.
Steven Rice You'd think that if someone went through all the time and effort to cosmetically restore that F unit-they'd also restore the mechanical portion of it to make it run.
I have no idea what a KCS F Unit is, but it looks like they're trying to connect the back of a caboose to the front of a train engine that is already pulling some cars. So it looks like putting the cart before the horse when the horse is already pulling some carts
An F unit is an EMD locomotive model from early diesel years. These were before the advent of the GP or general purpose locomotive bodies. Depending on the gear ratios and F or E could be a passenger or freight locomotive.
Speaking from experience: yes it will. Any curve will effect it at least a little, couplers with "shelves" it will effect greatly; such as type F couplers, as the protrusions, which are meant to keep cars together in the event of a derailment, also mean less open space for the opposing knuckle to fit into, so the alignment has to be more precise. All equipment on an Amtrak train or modern commuter rail in the US must have couplers like that. And as for how they're "pussy footing" it's because there're delicate plates, cups, probably decorative vases, and at least one person on board that coach.
If I were there upper manager, I'd fire all these rail workers! The F Unit is supposed to be the FRONT of the train! There were two tracks, and they couldn't figure that out?
maybe one coupler is not working properly. but if both are working , you line them up , then ease in and they connect and the pins drop down and that is that. what were all those idiots on the ground doing ? You have to open one right up to get them to connect. I didn't see anybody giving signals to the driver or fireman . was the guy on the carriage using a walkie talkie ?
If you are going to take a video get your camera supported on some tripod. If you are trying to see how they couple 2 units get close and stop all the moving all over the world. Or may e you should just forget about any and all video work. do not know what you were trying to show.
We'll I got my job done to quick had a mistake or to so they parked it for a long while hell I was 5 driving trains hell anything that had wheels u would see me waving at the elders driving down the road I was told as a kid when I was big enough to see over the wheel I could drive so me being a smart butt I used phone books and tide sticks to my shoes all the elders did was shake there head and laugh bout it I may have been a little shit but I loved everybody every wear I went and they loved me to
But there are people in the car eating and drinking. PUNCH IT! Soft coupling of Controlled Slack Tightlocks we had never worked because of the sprung knuckle faces and horn. You had to compress the springs in them to get them coupled.
Training folks. This looks very much like training. No reason for engine to pull away so far and such. Training happens when the opportunity lends itself.
Weak ass switching operations. That clark bar better have a new draft gear with that fancy new paintjob. Give it some love. That guy driving the switcher is trying to be cute or is scared. There should be only one guy on the ground here, all those other people are a hazard.
Malik Johnson love ❤️ that whistle at the beginning! WhoootWhooooot! Easy does it there! WhoooTWhooot! UP 8444 Videogates! 8444 my Late Brother-in-law used to pull that Lanyard on WhoootWhooooot 8444 and many more! WHOOOTWHOOOOOT
Why can't people learn how to use a camera? Please do a course on how not to wobble all over the place...... Getting a tripod for this sort of work would be a good start!
These guys have no idea what they're doing, open the knuckles by the bar, bump the two units together and the knuckles should close,,simple guys ,simple.
When Amtrak started receiving the GE E60 locomotive's we had the same problem for the first two months of service as the type F couplers ( draw bars ) were new and anytime you get a new drawbar they are a royal pain to get the pin to drop. I was attempting to couple onto an Amtrak train at New Haven, ct. Station that was 18 cars of new Amfleet equipment. A double whammy! It took us ( me and the car knockers ) over 15 minutes to finally get both pins to drop with by that time the station Trainmaster and the stationmaster there offering their two cents. The fix? Take a tennis ball and some glue. Glues the ball to the inside of the knuckle and couple up with a pop as the ball is destroyed but both knuckles closed and the pin dropped. I had one in my bag and after 12 minutes of trying to get them to drop made the suggestion one knuckle was closed manually and that was a pain in the rear because even slamming the knuckle closed by hand it took over 20 tries before the pin fell, then jammed the tennis ball into the coupler and tried it and with a pop the pin dropped. You would have thought we won the lottery everyone was so happy. Two months later after they broke in no more problems. The glue? Blow pop chewing gum.
I totally hate new drawbars the manufacturers need to make a small machine that opens and closes the drawbars to break them in before they go into service as it will save a lot and I mean a lot of aggravation.
Thank you for and informed and intelligent reply
I hope this last suggestion made it further than a youtube comment, because it sounds very useful
Thanks for the information.
Nice to see someone take the time to give good information.... without insults ..
Thank you for the good and valid information - that really helps the railroad lovers and hobbyists learning more without being brushed off with stupid commenters. Ciao, L
Great comment
This is what happens when you forget to remove the flash from the castings before assembling the Kadee 1:1 scale knuckle coupler kits! :) And don't forget to drill and tap for the 2-56 screw to mount the draft gear box on with!
Well this was almost as exciting as watching paint dry.
Great rail therapy...Big like from Romania!!!
When my son's ho amfleet cars do that, I just get the twisty tie off a loaf of bread and tie them together. Works every time.
Maybe KCS should get some massive twist ties 😂
@@chicagolandrailroader should have them on amazon!
🤨 You know, when my coupler's on my American Flyer trains don't engage, I put a couple of drops of 3 in 1 oil on them. Works wonders. 😉
I live by this train station. I see that Kansas City Southern F7A every time I go there.
Step one: remove knuckle pin. 2: raise op-lever to remove knuckle. 3: lower lever and slowly re-raise lever pulling lock block forward to hang it out from front of coupler (don't pinch fingers). 4: apply grease to both sides of lock block where it engages knuckle and coupler. 5: tip lock block back into coupler, press lightly on face of lock block (don't pinch fingers) raise lever slowly guiding lock into the top pocket. 6: with lock raised, re-install knuckle. Apply grease to the flat spot on the right side of the heel of the knuckle where it engages the lock. 7: re-install knuckle pin. If gravity won't drop the lock when the couplers come in contact with knuckles closed, establish whatever in-between protection that applies to you be it blue signal/ set and center, etc. take a bar through the lock lift and wiggle it down. This is the solution to new couplers that are "tight" from not being worn in yet. If you have an old worn coupler and parts aren't available, close the worn knuckle until it locks. Once locked, verify good alignment with the other coupler by doing a dry run where you stop mere inches apart. (Requires good engineer). Then bring it back with a little "love". (bring consist to a 2 mph roll and just let em bump)
Dylan Baldwin
FRA forbids lubricating inside of couplers, it will cause them to unlock on their own if you do.
James Shanks suddenly grease applied to a part will make it defy the laws of gravity? Nowhere in the CFR 215, or the AAR manual does it forbid greasing a coupler component. In fact there are couplers that specify lubricant when they are disassembled for any reason and others that specify lubricant whenever components are replaced. It may say somewhere to never apply lubricant to the inside pulling face of a knuckle, which makes perfect sense, however that's not what I specified to lubricate.
Dylan, we used Graphite in alcohol. Much better as it dried and left the Graphite in place. And it did not pick up dirt.
gravelydon absolutely great idea. We use graphite to lubricate coupler carriers. I said grease in my earlier post because if you don't have any fresh on you, there's always some greasy something around to rob some off of. However I absolutely agree that dry lubricants are superior in dusty or outdoor applications for the exact reasons you specified.
Dylan, Even rubbing a pencil on the parts can help. But you are right about the grease being readily available. Just grab some off of a steam engine if you have one handy. ;-)
It seems that, most of the people that have commented have never operated a locomotive, acted as a switchman or even viewed live and up close to a train coupling up. It doesn't matter if there are 2 couplers open or not; curve in the tracks doesn't matter; a higher speed doesn't always help and they're coupling up with a passenger car. Cant do too high of a speed while coupling. I'm able to hear that couplers close, but the coupler pin on the car is not dropping into place.
I believe if I owned either the KCS unit or the passenger car and saw someone wanting to ' RAM ' them together as a couple below suggested, I would have their ignorant butts run off.
Just close the coupler on the loco before coupling, then hook up. You only need one coupler open to make a secure joint.
Ok guys come in a bit harder? Let's see you do that with the CEO of the railroad on board the company private car assigned to him, they are doing it exactly the way I did it when coupling onto live passenger cars. You handle passenger cars with kid gloves because freight cars can't come out and give you dirty looks or have a quick conversation with a Trainmaster or Roadforeman of engines. And the last thing you want is to hear you caused someone to fall when you tied on to the passenger cars. The 4 mph maximum coupling speed definitely does not apply when coupling up to live passenger cars.
Looks like a guy backing his boat down the ramp for the first time...lol...
lol
Usually when you can't lift a pin and it appears stuck it's simply pressure against the knuckle shove the cars together and that should release the pressure from however I've seen one coupler like you describe and it turned out to be a mouse nest, a number 50 burner for 10 minutes and then it finally opened . We cleaned out the remains and after that it worked fine.
Nice video! It's like trying to hook up the cars on my model trains lol.
I think it is the only experience these guys had as well!!! Just need to go a bit harder. When they don't close first time then pull away... shut the jaw that is still open then open the opposite jaw. Try again... bingo! Job done.
mrnewshoes m on my ho layout with a switcher I have to ram them to get a them to work
Than
When you're facing the challenge of a task you've never performed (or even seen performed), it pays to take it slow. (Yeah, it looked like that.)
Man they're acting like those clamps are plastic and fragile. I've heard trains hit so hard trying to latch that it sounded like a train crashed sending a ripple down each car.
Kenneth Barbee those are the rules coupling speed is 1mph
Not with that car, you don't slam it.
Kenneth Barbee. I have been on passenger cars. Where the locomotive engineer would accelorate so fast after each and every stop. That all you heard was a very loud BOOOM BOOOM BOOOM BOOOM. BOOOM BOOOM by then we were shaking and rocking back and forth. When he stopped the same thing BOOOM BOOOM BOOOM BOOOM BOOOM BOOOM with a very strong, ear pearcing. SSSSCCCCRRRREEEEEEEEEEEEECCCCCCCHHHHHHH. Then we'd get all throwen around again. I have experienced it quite often.
were you on an antique railcar that is older than your father? You don't slam around history.
Steven Rice. To whom are you communicating too? Post your comment by the name of the person. To whom you wish to get a responce from. Or you'er just defeating the purpose of creating and posting your statement.
Lock Pin is stuck and won't allow it to hitch. It is a Pushing Cushion Hitch, They had a lot of problems with them back in the 50s - 70's They were built in Atchison , Kansas
lots of armchair experts here...
The couplers are made to slide right to left. But if the moving car doesn't hit hard enough, it will not couple.
GRRRRRRR!! Is probably an understatement!!
I usually hook up units like this in 60 seconds flat using a longhorn pin driver and a 5lb sledge hammer.
You Sir,
Have True Grit .....
Where is the kaboom there supposed to be a earth shattering kaboom
They forgot the Acme dynamite again !
Please get a steadicam! You can get them quite cheap, and they make all the difference.
I ain't no expert here... but i know in the early days many roads had to customize their E and F unit pilots for situations like this- nose to nose etc. They were designed to haul cab front, that coupler was 'suppose to be' for rare occasions. And in the heyday of observations, the open air end didn't always 'safely' couple to everything else out there, sometimes only until the first tight switch. No one in this video looked over 40, so there was a lot of muscle and ego, but not much ol time experience... one or the other should have been turned around.. but that ain't always available any more either... so how did this turn out? Who's insurance paid for the tinwork damage?
looks to me that he did an excellent job,,,soft and easy. The problem appears to be the coupler units. They must be rough and rusty, otherwise the ramps woulda slid the coupling pin smoothly and theywoulda coupled.
intro: *RIP headphone users.*
hycron1234 That one loud whistle (I turned down the volume already)
Got to love the sound of a big boy
Chris do you have any photos or coverage of the two cars behind the F unit, especially the heavyweight immediately behind the Funit?
This is your modern railroading. Ridiculous "safety" rules make coupling cars a burdensome task. Plus, you have officials present here. In the old days if the joint doesn't make, separate the knuckles by a foot or two, kick the coupler into position with your feet, make the coupling and get on with life.
1990s Railfan and how many of the old guys ended up on disability retirement because their leg, foot, or hip hurt? How many lost a foot from slack action? Old ways may have sped up time but it cost the men in the long run
I've watched a UP hogger slam, and I mean SLAM his engines into a string of cars. He couldn't have meant to do that, had to have gave him whiplash lol
And this is why fly !
High low problems with couplers
I have seen this F-Unit !
They were being way to safe! Most places like these are regulated by FRA regulations the same as the big guys on the block like UP and CSX, etc. Why they kept pulling away some 50 ft. from the engine, I don't know, but they needed at least 3 mph to lock the couplers then all of 5 seconds to connect the brake line and another 5-6 seconds to attach the electric cable.
Really the kansas city street car needs to have engineers who previously worked for BNSF or Union Pacific, since the street car keeps hit cars in the intersection.
These older passenger coaches need a good smack to have the knuckle grab....Problem is, being old rolling stock, you have to be pretty careful.
We had the oldest Budd built car that met Amtrak requirements. You had to smack it at times to get it coupled even though the CS couplers had been on it since the 40s. After the original non-CS couplers that were on it in 1937 were replaced. The cars are not all that wimpy but the items inside can be. Don't break the china.
can we all pitch in and buy you a tripod? ;-)
André Reiter video should be named how not to record trains.
If you're getting paid by the hour, forever.
Never have both couplers open. Close one, open one. Come in easy but firm. It's a train, not a pocket watch. And it doesn't take the conductor plus 3 on the ground. That's why railroaders don't like these volunteer operations. It's not play. Get the job done.
Why leave one closed? We almost always open both and don't have any problems.
ironmatic 1 keeping one closed lets the two center up faster and minimizes the likely of that a bin won't drop. Only need one open coupler. The best news on the engine get used the most, so better to leave that one open and close the mating one. The whole idea is to save time and motion.
Thank You! It only takes one knuckle open to make the joint, I'm always getting on to my brakemen for wasting time opening the knuckle. It cuts the chances of having the pin not drop in half.
Tarletan Hale I agree. Only one person needed. And it's not necessary to back out that far to recouple. The problem with many volunteer crews, aside from inexperience, is they tend to overdo everything. I've seen as many as 4 people giving hand signals when the conductor has a radio. That's how people get hurt.
Leaving both knuckles open while switching is great because it leaves a much larger target for the knuckles to hit, especially if it's on a curve. Saves time from having to go again. I know this from firsthand experience.
A little baleing wire and some gaffer tape should do it.
MrDejast gaffer tape is the best. Clothes too loose? Gaffer tape. Something rolling away? Gaffer tape. Need to block out that logo? Gaffer tape. Stick some cables to the ground? Gaffer tape. Wanna hook up two old trains? Gaffer tape. What comes in a variety of colors? Gaffer tape. Gaffer tape gaffer tape gaffer tape!
is it super sticky or something?
Scheesch! Like watching paint dry or grass grow. i want my 8 minutes back
You all realize the F unit is a static display right? it's only a cosmetic restoration. It spends 6 months at a time, out in the open, getting shit on by pigeons by the bridge, while it rusts. Does anything work well when it's rusted up?
Its just mothballed
I don't believe it has a prime mover in there. or a lot of the other operational components.
i had a lionell train set when i was about 5 years old and you had to click the cars kinda hard to get the couplers to latch
Did you have the track piece with a electromagnet to decouple the cars?
no .... and it had some sort of cardboard bridges and trestles but i was the kind of kid that needed to see just how it worked and i got some tools from my dads garage and took it apart .... bad little boy
There doing it wrong but sometimes you gotta couple at 6.
Never cut off in a curve! Never!
Why couldn't they couple the CP car behind the KCS Business cars and ditch the KCT Switcher altogether????
Because that would make sense. These are definitely NOT KCS employees..
Oh. Hey Elfnet T̝̈ͣheͩ͂ Se̳r͊ve̥͌r'͊͋̋s̼ͧ͂ v̝e̅͒r͐́͡y͂ ͭf͓͡inë̱̰́
At a guess, because the F unit is going to be towed and not under power.
I have heard that when towing an unpowered locomotive, it is common to put a car between it and the powered locomotive as a buffer. Not sure why.
That's kind of what's going on here. The F unit is donated to union station and is a cosmetic restoration, it does not run. The cars are all private cars. The two tracks there are used to store the various private cars that come in and out.
Steven Rice
You'd think that if someone went through all the time and effort to cosmetically restore that F unit-they'd also restore the mechanical portion of it to make it run.
I fell asleep. What happened?
I hate to tell that car owner that Central Pacific went nowhere near Promontory Point.
Central Pacific and Union Pacific met there on May 10,; 1869. Central Pacific became Southern Pacific. Then absorbed into Union Pacific.
Union Pacific and Central Pacific met 30 miles north of Promontory point.
Promontory is not the same place as promontory point.
Where is the Benny Hill music at? No Really its Hard to Drop the pin on a curve, Come on KCT guys lets get it Right!
Keystone RR cops!
The WAMX operator was hungry and tired. He needed to eat a whaamburger and wash it down with a whiniekan....
why wont the pin drop?!
I have no idea what a KCS F Unit is, but it looks like they're trying to connect the back of a caboose to the front of a train engine that is already pulling some cars. So it looks like putting the cart before the horse when the horse is already pulling some carts
Yeah...
Leave…
KCS = Kansas City Southern, it says it right on the side of the engine. :p
Right. And an "F Unit" is...? It still looks like putting the cart before the horse.
An F unit is an EMD locomotive model from early diesel years. These were before the advent of the GP or general purpose locomotive bodies. Depending on the gear ratios and F or E could be a passenger or freight locomotive.
Thanks. EMD? E__________ M___________ Diesel?
you'd think with five stupidvisors, it would be easy!
why does the Armour Yellow passenger car have Central Pacific on it?
microbusss based on the paint scheme, it looks to be a Union Pacific sub-company
well the real Central Pacific was best know for the Jupiter that was at the Golden Spike
Plus it later became Southern Pacific
Yea that was a mess but sure is a nice looking paint job.
That's on a curve. At 1:40 you can see how tiny a curve it is, but it is enough. It's difficult to tie on, unless the track is absolutely straight.
sounds like a shitty knuckle design.
Billy Darley It's the same knuckle design we been using since 1906. It works fine, as long as you are working on straight track and not on a curve.
oxenforde maybe if they didnt pussy foot it so much it would have hooked up. Curve that small wont effect it.
Speaking from experience: yes it will. Any curve will effect it at least a little, couplers with "shelves" it will effect greatly; such as type F couplers, as the protrusions, which are meant to keep cars together in the event of a derailment, also mean less open space for the opposing knuckle to fit into, so the alignment has to be more precise. All equipment on an Amtrak train or modern commuter rail in the US must have couplers like that. And as for how they're "pussy footing" it's because there're delicate plates, cups, probably decorative vases, and at least one person on board that coach.
oxenforde - And a hill lol
If I were there upper manager, I'd fire all these rail workers! The F Unit is supposed to be the FRONT of the train! There were two tracks, and they couldn't figure that out?
maybe one coupler is not working properly. but if both are working , you line them up , then ease in and they connect and the pins drop down and that is that. what were all those idiots on the ground doing ? You have to open one right up to get them to connect. I didn't see anybody giving signals to the driver or fireman . was the guy on the carriage using a walkie talkie ?
only once if you dont care about the equipment like it seems you dont
What was wrong with it
Looks like they need more guys. Only three on the ground??
If you are going to take a video get your camera supported on some tripod. If you are trying to see how they couple 2 units get close and stop all the moving all over the world. Or may e you should just forget about any and all video work. do not know what you were trying to show.
We'll I got my job done to quick had a mistake or to so they parked it for a long while hell I was 5 driving trains hell anything that had wheels u would see me waving at the elders driving down the road I was told as a kid when I was big enough to see over the wheel I could drive so me being a smart butt I used phone books and tide sticks to my shoes all the elders did was shake there head and laugh bout it I may have been a little shit but I loved everybody every wear I went and they loved me to
LOL these are not plastic toys guys come in a bit harder.
But there are people in the car eating and drinking. PUNCH IT! Soft coupling of Controlled Slack Tightlocks we had never worked because of the sprung knuckle faces and horn. You had to compress the springs in them to get them coupled.
mow4ncry they are steel toys
slam that thing and let's go...
mow4ncry because management would have to pick their cigars and dishes up from the dining lounge car if it went in any harder.
AffordBindEquipment 😂😂😂😂😂
R.I.P. headphone users!
Im wearing headphones and I don't understand what your talking about
MetroNorth RR fan The intro.
Training folks. This looks very much like training. No reason for engine to pull away so far and such. Training happens when the opportunity lends itself.
There are FRA rules and railroad safety and operating rules in play that's why the pulled away so far.
Weak ass switching operations. That clark bar better have a new draft gear with that fancy new paintjob. Give it some love.
That guy driving the switcher is trying to be cute or is scared.
There should be only one guy on the ground here, all those other people are a hazard.
might a been nice if a brakeman had waved the locomotive in. Hard to tell where you're at from the head end.
sam dean it's called radio
Which is why he is obviously using a radio....
I live near KC, i live in Bonner Springs
I went to union station and saw that F unit I almost blew up
why it’s always there
ATSF foamer It was the first time I had ever seen a F-Unit and I had never been there before.
Jesus Christ the intro was loud as hell!
Malik Johnson love ❤️ that whistle at the beginning! WhoootWhooooot! Easy does it there! WhoooTWhooot! UP 8444 Videogates! 8444 my Late Brother-in-law used to pull that Lanyard on WhoootWhooooot 8444 and many more! WHOOOTWHOOOOOT
rip headhone users
for the love of google. Turn on video stabilization!
It's not a carton of eggs
You have to be careful when connecting a standard couple to a metric couple. You have to force the metric to comply.
be vewy vewy quiet...I'm hunting WAMX
Why can't people learn how to use a camera? Please do a course on how not to wobble all over the place...... Getting a tripod for this sort of work would be a good start!
Can I get the last 5min. of my life back? Seriously.
I've seen the KCS f unit one day when I was going to st louis
Why did I watch this?
Mark Leon Tanner. Why are you asking the people. Who arnt you...yourself?
because
What the hell guys? Come on!
Too many Chief's not enough Indians?
Super. 💙 T.E.N.
Definitely a union job.
Would've been nice to watch, but there was a couple of A-Holes in the way.
God damn! The knuckles are not made of glass!
The duhicky is not engaging to the thingamabober on dumaflanger.
hay alguna posibilidad de traducir al español gracias
Try some super glue!
Dear lord! Kick the coupler over a bit and then give it a good bump, its not rocket science!
hey! i seen both those locos before
Editing 101 please
Training?
not being familiar with trains, what is the problem ?
big bob its on a curve so the couplers aren't working properly
They obviously need more guys standing around.
you have to slam them together at 8 mph
These guys have no idea what they're doing, open the knuckles by the bar, bump the two units together and the knuckles should close,,simple guys ,simple.
Cajunman Dick if it's that simple why didn't you notice they're coupling on a slit curve. Hard to couple on any kinda curve.
About as good as your filming.
Wasted 8 minutes of my life. This is like watching paint dry.
Robert Conrad the Whistle at the Beginning
Too much zooming in and out and camera shaking.....otherwise not a bad video.
Kansas City can screw up anything.