Oil Painting Tip - Water Mixable Oil Paint vs Traditional Oil Paint vs Acrylic Paint
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- Опубліковано 28 лип 2024
- Oil Painting Tip - Water Mixable Oil Paint vs Traditional Oil Paint vs Acrylic Paint. We had a discussion about water-mixable oils during our members' Zoom Room art training and Q&A monthly webinar. So if you're wondering if you should switch to using water-mixable oils rather than traditional oils here are my thoughts.
I also discuss some of the weaknesses of acrylics compared with traditional oil paints.
Learn more: masteroilpainting.com/monthly...
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Most of my landscape painting is alla prima or wet on wet and created from plein air studies, imagination and digital reference photos.
Training: masteroilpainting.com/
View Artwork: www.inmanfinearts.com/index.html
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Blog: masteroilpainting.com/blog/
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About the Artist:
Learn from impressionist Bill Inman as he demonstrates how to breathe life into loose abstract color masses.
For more than 30 years he has been selling his work through galleries around the country as a full time artist.
He is classically trained with 5 years of figure and head drawing from the model; advanced pastel, watercolor and oil painting from life and holds an MFA in studio painting.
He is a recipient of the Congressional Art Award, has been featured in Southwest Art Magazine and has his work in collections around the world.
These colors and techniques generally apply equally well with oil or acrylic paint.
"My goal is to help viewers feel like they are looking out a window or doorway into a beautiful scene, one that beckons to forget the world a while and simply enjoy the peace and serenity, the incredible beauty Heavenly Father has provided."
Bill and his beautiful wife Kristie have 7 children and several grandchildren. "They are my deepest source of joy and inspiration!"
Enjoy, and Happy Painting!! - Навчання та стиль
I have painted with oils since back in the 1970's and a while back I changed to water mixable oil paints. Great, no more need for solvents .I find Daler-Rowney water mixable oils brilliant. Soap and water washes my brushes when I am finished painting. They can be used exactly like traditional oils by using mediums. I would recommend water mixable for everyone from beginners to old seasoned nuts like myself.
Thank you for the advice and shared experience! :)
Thank you, I just can't get over how negative and basically rude this video was.
I don't find anything wrong with water mixable oil paints. I don't have a lot of room so I do my painting in my bedroom. I don't mix water with my paint, only to clean my brushes.
I've done quite a bit of research on water mixable oils. These are oil paints in every sense. As long as you don't thin them with water, they are made exactly the same way except one molecule is altered so it bonds with H2O. Once it dries, it's identical to traditional oils. The pigment, filler and linseed oil is the same. That said, I would never thin these paints with water. I can see how that might be an issue. You can clean the brushes with water. Solvents for traditional oil can and do cause health problem (headaches, chronic COPD) harmful for some people over time, even with no odor thinners.
What about using solely linseed oil as a thinner ? Not mixing it with turpentine, just the linseed oil. That was what I used in my youth, and am willing to get back to oil painting, but trying to guess if that formula would be toxic like it is using solvents as thinners.
You can thin water mixable oil paint with water mixable linseed oil, many brands also make non toxic odour free thinners. You could use regular linseed oil with them too but if you want super easy clean up better stay with water mixable products. Don’t thin them with water however
@@eastraversupplies7843 Thanks a lot! That is very useful to know. :)
@@3polygons 🙏 if you use water as a thinner it will be just like turpentine with normal oil paints, layer will dry fast but it will be porous and matte (dull), there will be some colour shift as well. It still can be useful for underpainting
@@eastraversupplies7843 this guy (ua-cam.com/video/XSWBc0XegMc/v-deo.html) says he uses water to make the oil thinner, and has great results
I haven't had any issues using my water mixable oils. I use Winsor Newton water mixable oils and I honestly don't find that they're all that different from regular oils. I use them with solvent free mediums with no problem. I varnish them with gamvar no problem. I have yet to have any problems. As far as longevity goes, I'll probably be long gone before that becomes an issue.
Don’t be an Art snob. The truth is the best way to use water “soluble” oil paints is NOT to use water to mix paint. Use water for clean-up use medium to mix and extend or alter your paint. It is oil paint, it dries by oxidation, the additional molecules added in to allow water clean-up is chemistry and if done correctly is stable. You touched on the key fact that it is all pigment suspended in a medium. Companies are trying to take advantage of the toxic nature of base oil paints and sell a “new” product. It is just another way to get your paint onto your surface. Don’t be afraid of new oils just learn how to use them or not! They are”real” oil paints and will last for years if applied correctly. I do wish you luck with continuing to teach in the new and ever changing world of painting!
For me, toxicity like touching cadmium, etc. is less important than flammables. I don't like flammables in my household where people sleep if I can possibly avoid it. I also don't use anything that affects the family's breathing. In other words, the family's safety including pets is paramount. Along that line, I've seen artists with household pets use orange/citrus/essential oils that can not only be hazardous to their health but lethal for them.
I started trying water-mixable oils a year or so ago after painting in acrylics for a couple of years prior to that. I think they are a good way to transition into oils if coming from acrylics or watercolor. I tried a couple of brands and really like Cobra the best. I don't use water to mix with the paints, but just to clean up the brushes with soap and water. Not sure I see a particularly good reason to switch to traditional oils as, if you are not mixing water into your paints, they are really no different than traditional oils.
A lot of great information Bill , thank you so much your very talented.
Thank you for all the very helpful info! I really like your jacket! What a clever idea! Blessings, Tina
I'm curious. You keep mentioning things that you can do with traditional oils that you can't do with Water-mixable oils. Can you give a few examples please?
there are no examples you can do everything you want with watermixable oil paint just dont use water as meduim it makes the paint sticky and changes the colour etc
They are exactly the sane if you don't thin with water
@@adelehammond1621 thanks, now which one is better medium to make the paint floe, linseed or walnut oil?
@@mona2242 that’s just a personal preference question try each one out and decide which one you like more, I like sunflower oil. Just try out a few you like! Many people who have been doing this for a while know that linseed oil does tend to yellow over time. So consider that it you use lighter colors!
@@mjpete27 Yes, this is very true. But if you use it like I did (varies from each artist's style, might not be applicable to many cases) , that is, only for first "sketch stages", to cover big areas fast, and finish the picture with layers and layers of pure oils, no thinner, I did not notice the yellow issue (it still might have happened, but I am not able to notice it in some very very old canvases, like 25 years old ones, they're still look like the first days, while the acrylics pictures I made from them have degraded somehow... most of them only slightly but, one is ruined. I believe because received too much sunlight). Probably because it's so many layers of pure oils right from the tube, that the underneath layers , even if used lots of linseed oil, don't seem to affect the upper layers. But yep, in the first stages, it did go to yellow, specially once dried.
I thought this was going to be a discussion about the "science" with water misable oil paints. I didnt hear that and you seemed to talk more about acrylics which is not relavent to the subject. Whether Robert Gamblin doest "accept the science" is also irrelavent. So I have heard no science as to whether anyone should use oil misable oil paints or not. Do you not even know that sythetic brushes are used for this medium? Really if you are going to discuss a subject it would be good to do some research first. A terribly disappointing discussion with nothing of importance to take away.
Omg thank you!!!! All he did was trash acrylics and the artist that use them. I personally found the video to be rude, with no content.
Thanks Bill - great to hear your thoughts and expert opinion. As a fairly new artist I thought WMO would just be easier to use. As I'm progressing I need to understand more and make more informed choices. This video has been really useful for me. Much appreciated. Wendy (Scotland)
Great info, thanks for putting this out.
You've convinced me to stay with traditional oils, my first love. I was wanting to go water mixable to avoid odors (I can only paint indoors in winter)... so...
Acrylics are fine too... no odors in my basement studio... but problems with layering and adding levels.. even on hardboard and glass...
Very informative- Thanks Bill
Thank you, well done! I would like your other information on turpinoid natural.
I am a beginner and I am using the Windsor & Newton water mixable oils with their Artisan thinner, so no water comes into the paints. They aren't sticky like some others I tried. But I am here watching because I don't know what the heck I am doing!! I paint inside my house and am sensitive to smell. Will try the turpenoid natural. Thanks.
What if you mix acrylic with water mixable linseed oil? Does that help at all with the preservability if you spray a lot of varnish after drying?
Good, thought information. Now I'm wondering how about alkyds?
Hi great video enjoyed the insight info thanks Bill . Steve UK
Thanks for the vid! Just found your channel from the Facebook group. 🖤
Where can I buy Terpenoid natural, I live in Nevada, thank you !
Thank you. Good information. The only reason I have stayed with Acrylics is because I am self taught and did not know what to choose from to mix oils with and because I am familiar with Acrylics. I have always been interested in trying oil painting because of the color being more vibrant but am also concerned about health. It sounds very simple now but I never could find information about it before when I looked a long while back.
@@masteroilpainting Thanks so much.
I just read somewhere that acrylic paint releases a lot of toxic something into the air as it dries...so it isn’t necessarily true that health isn’t an issue with acrylics.
Thanks so much. I have purchased some WMO because I have asthma and other respiratory problems and am always painting indoors. I did not know you could use traditional oils without solvents. I would love more info on the turpinoid natural as I'm completely unfamiliar with what it is and how it works. Thanks again.
Hi I’m trying to get my head around using oil paints instead of acrylic paints and I’m wondering why are you use walnut oil to thin out your oil paint a little bit instead of linseed oil? Thanks for all your awesome information very helpful, indeed.
Thank you . I’m moving from watercolor to oil and I have asthma. I’ve bought both water and traditional oil paints and still haven’t tried them for fear of the chemicals. It’s so confusing
Than you for this video! I would love to get into oil paints, but i am sensitve to chemicals and can't even use regular chemical cleaners im my bathroom for that reason.
Not too concerned about the pigments, more so about the air quality in my appartment (it's small and not very well ventilated). So because of the solvents I have always stayed away from oil paints. I heard about multiple people developing chronic asthma and allergies which forced them give up on creating art in oil. Surely tere are a lot of people woring with the mediums who never had any issues.
But if there are safe alternatives out there, I'm very interested and would prefer regular oil paints to the water mixable ones. The natural Turpenoid you've mentioned sounds like it might be an option. Would you say it is safe to use in a small not well ventilated space? Or is it theoretically safe. Sorry about this elaborate and odd question.
Wouldn't I limit myself in using oil colors without solvent?
I just know that the issues I have with chemicals pretty unique and severe, but when investing in new art materials it would be very sad to have to sell it, or give it away after finding out that it doesn't work.
Can you do a vid about drying oils?
Please can you tell me what is Terpenoid Natural called in Belgium
what about cold wax or encaustic for sealing paintings?
I have lung issues , is that safe .
With water soluble paint , one wouldn’t put gesso on correct?
I’m new to oil painting and wanted to try the Bob Ross gesso and transparent oils .
I used water colours and it smelled like cat food . They were really good quality.
What about baby oil to clean brushes ?
Have you tried cold wax and oils?
Absolutely amazing video. Very informative, solving doubts I have been having about painting materials since very long. And that counting on me finishing Fine Arts career (back in the 90s) and having painted a lot afterwards. Indeed, we were taught to use turpentine for thinning and washing the brushes. I used it for the 6 years I was there, full day. I did not know it was toxic (only that we had to keep the windows open), but it didn't felt right as am sensitive to strong odor, so, following my instinct I always used a mix of turpentine and linseed oil. But in the late years before I stopped painting, only linseed oil as a thinner (and cleaning the brushes with water and soap... and yes, it ruined the brushes after a year, but anyway I always bought super cheap brushes) linseed oil which I kept in a metal thing (like a tiny teapot) attached to the palette, and once the painting picture was at an advanced stage, mostly just oils, doing textures and all the fun stuff. This all (the information in the video) wasn't taught in college (not in mine), somehow, and among colleagues, old friends, people do not know 99% of what I have learned in this video. Thank you very, very much !
Artisan also makes a varnish remover for water mixable oils.
Hello..😢Interesting video. I hear what you're saying about WMO, so it gives me food for thought. I have both types. I use Winsor & Newton WMO and like them. I know traditional oils have been around so long... thousands of years, so predicting how the oil & pigment will behave and how well it ages over time is more reliable.
My additional comment and concern is what you say about the Turps Natural. That stuff is still pretty "toxic" when compared to degreasing soap and oil and has all kind of warnings on it, just like other petroleum-based solvents, so I can't imagine it's that much safer than regular turpentine. I will sometimes clean my brushes with mineral spirits if they're really
gunked up. But mostly, I use Dawn or a citrus based solvent. and mostly just Dawn alone or a soap with some grease dissolver in it. . I just need to remember to put some oil on the brushes after washing. All the brush cleaning/varnishing/ archival issues with oils are why my first painting love, so far, is watercoloring.Simple, simple, simple. And then I'm beginning to get into pastels too...and the dust with them is an issue.
So much paint...so little time. Thanks!
i think i could care less about the longetivity of my paintings i ll be long dead before that becomes a problem
You mean you don't be painting the ceiling of the sistene chapel? You aim low huh? Lol
Exactly! And if your painting IS that good, people will invent news ways to preserve it in, say, 100 years, when the medium becomes an issue.
I would be to think they already can make a lot to keep even an acrylic painting the most faithful possible to its original form, with current techniques. A friend of mine in Fine Arts used to say this : "Hey! we need to use acrylics so that our friends at restoration keep their jobs!" As it was one of the four specialties (graphic design & engraving, sculpture, painting and art restoration)
Hi, l'm guessing your in Canada
Great video, although you said there are no good ways to varnish an acrylic painting which is misleading. An isolation coat with Golden Soft Gel Gloss works great. Then a layer of Damar or Gamvar can be applied like an oil painting.
If the pigments are the same and if you take two quality oils, traditional and water mixable, why would the vibrancy of the colors be any different in the end?
Because not all pigments are the same. They vary in quality depending on source, treatment and processing. That is why PR22 (?) quin magenta varies so much between different brands. Watermixables are not sold as very high end and they are priced accordingly which means that, although the pigment number may be the same say as used by Blocx, it will probably have a different provenance, and the linseed may be heat extracted rather than cold pressed which lends greater clarity to the paint.
@@gaelhillyardcreative Thank you for your answer! So far I've been using WMO (winsor and newton /Aqua duo / Daler rowney) and have been satisfied, however it's always in the back of my mind, if I had used very good Traditional oils (Old holland or what not) how different would the painting look...I also wasn't aware of the hot pressed/cold pressed linseed oil and the fact the clarity would differ somewhat.
@@gaelhillyardcreative You don't get what you don't pay for is what you are saying? This is true I have found.
However, hobby painters cannot afford or justify the high costs of those American paint brands that are made even more expensive by import taxes into europe. They may be worth the money to professionals who's work will be sold and must last. But the rest of us? No.
Hi, Bill. I still haven't my ideal underpainting material, as yet (to avoid the use of solvents.) I've been experimenting. The watercolor didn't give me good coverage at all. As for acrylics -- you convinced me that it's not worthwhile. A teacher (professor) suggested smearing linseed oil on the canvas and then wiping off the excess. I did -- but the result was too glossy. Now I have purchased water soluble oils - just for the impromatura underpaintng . The results are the same as those of the linseed oil. too glossy. Too shiny. I am really at a loss. Do you have any suggestons? Thanking you for your time and clarifications, Carol.
I'm so sorry to have seen your question so long after you asked Carol. Have you found a good solution? I'm in accord with you about using oil for the preliminary washes. I experimented with walnut oil for a couple of years to block in my paintings but found it too slick and not especially fluid. On a whim one day, I just began putting paint on my canvas/panel straight from the tube - literally squeezing each color onto the panel. It was a 40x30 canvas of a trail leading up through aspens. The paint was too thick for my brushes to effectively move the paint around, so I used ceramics/sculpture tools and chopped-up credit cards. I've had a lot of experience working with thick paint, but it was still a challenging problem-solving mess I had gotten myself into. I was just flying from the seat of my pants, following my instincts. The result was amazing. I now employ the technique to one extent or another in all of my paintings. The colors were vibrant and rich without the glassy gloss I get from mediums like Walnut Alkyd Medium when I use too much, and using the tools, I was able to cover the panel pretty quickly. Finishing the painting wasn't especially quick because I was learning what to do and how to manage all of that paint in a way that would be interesting and believable, but the experience was fun and opened up all kinds of texture possibilities. Paint straight from the tube gives me the best results so far in terms of gloss and quickly covering the white of the canvas, but I have to use plenty of paint early on or it greatly slows the process.
Bill, I can't believe your timing! I just before finished doing an underpainting with plain ol' oil pigment. It came out too thick and was hard to maneuver; so, I'll be glad to try your advice of using credit cards. I had finally learned how to manage with water soluble oil; but, since I do preliminary sketches with a Tombow (water soluble) brush pen I can't do corrections because everything gets erased! I have another paint problem: the only really buttery, maleable paint I have found is the Rembrandt. For some reason it is so soft that it almost melts --even straight out of the freezer! I seem to be spending alot of time searching for the most ideal combination of tools. Everyone else seems get working straigtaway (as I used to do) with their 50-50% solvent and linseed oil combo. thanks again for caring, Carol
I’m in Canada , where do you recommend I buy huge jugs of black @ white gessos ?
Same with brushes and paints ?
Try Delta art in Edmonton ... Best prices, availability, choice of products in the country:
www.deltaart.ca/
Curry's Art or Amazon.ca
Hi. Thanks for this information
I tried water mixable oils in the late 90s. I didn’t like them at all. Plastic-y feeling, like acrylic. They perform nothing like real oil paint in my opinion. I’d be using oils today if I didn’t have an open floor plan and a parrot. I don’t care about my own lungs, but I don’t want to expose my bird to the fumes. I was considering trying water mixable again, and using oil mediums, as I have seen some artists do...but I don’t know. Listening to you, maybe not. I remember trying to mix them, how they spread on the canvas...they just were not pleasurable to use, not like oils.
You're the first person I've heard say thst about WMO. I've heard countless painters with 20+ years experience say they can barely tell the difference if they aren't thinned with water.
What if you just stop comparing them with regular oils and appreciate them for what they are?
Walnut oil can catch fire if left on a rag and tossed, so careful there for anyone who wants to try walnut. Practice safe disposal.
Does this happen with Linseed oil ? (thanks in advance)
yes@@3polygons
Thank you so much!! :)
Totally disagree with your opinion of water mixable oils and can highly recommend them as can numerous respected artists and reputable paint manufacturers.
It will never look as good or behave as nicely as real oil paint though. Nowadays with all of the safer modern solvents and mediums theres just no reason to choose water mixable over traditional. I use a completely natural medium and i dont even open my gamsol mineral spirits until im all done painting and doing a final rinse. I just use straight walnut oil to remove paint from my brushes in between colors. From a science perspective you need to mess with the integrity of the oil and use additives to make it watermixable. Oil paint should just be oil and pigment.
@@acaciarogersart What "completely natural medium" do you use? What method do you use to thin your oil paints?
@@fred5968 walnut alkyd is usually all i need. I dont thin my paint with solvent
@@acaciarogersart Thanks for the reply. I guess it depends on a person's painting style. There are times when I'd like to thin the paint during early stages and my experience with mediums like walnut oil is that the application will be a little too oily and take too long to dry. I haven't been very successful finding something that works as well as basic turps/mineral spirits. Unfortunately, I've developed a low tolerance to solvents. Water mixable oils are starting to sound like an acceptable alternative.
@@fred5968 Walnut alkyd is a fast dry medium
Love that denim jacket your wearing, what brand is it adidas? loves it i want it
I agree! :)
Great stuff. What's your opinion on Liquin or Galkyd?
@@masteroilpainting Thanks so much 👏
I use Liquin mainly to speed up drying time .
I started decorative painting with oils in 1974, but always painted at home. In the early 80s, I took some classes with little or no ventilation and I'm assuming there were at least 20 women, each with their pots of turps sitting there, plus the jars of mediums we mixed at home. I loved it, until I started having severe headaches. Decorative painters were getting sick - from stupid and careless use of paints with heavy metals in them, plus the solvents. Everyone changed to pre-mixed craft paints (higher profit plus acrylics were not nice back then. I finally quit and actually sold my paints. That I have regretted. Now I have painted with watercolors since the mid 90s but I SO want to get back into oils. I have to just bite the bullet and do it. Forty years from now I will be e116 and I probably will no longer be painting - but I know that my grandkids will claim what I have, so it won't be wasted.
Loved this video. Now the question I have is Alkyd oils vs traditional oils. Any opinions?
Great question! I haven't used Alkyd paints but I also don't plan to. What I love about the Alkyd medium is that I can use it discriminately. If I'm working alla prima in order to manipulate edges and dig into thick strokes of paint with thin branches then I don't want the paint to dry too quickly. Also, I have some paint tubes that are 50 years old and they are still fluid and useable. I wonder if alkyd paints would tend to dry in the tube more readily. Although, It might be handy to have a few colors of alkyd paints on hand that you use typically for underpainting for those times you want the paint to dry quickly. Overall, the pigment in paint is more expensive than alkyd medium, so keeping the alkyd separate seems like a good idea so our more expensive paint doesn't dry out prematurely, especially on the palette when a painting takes a few days to complete.
@@masteroilpainting Thanks so much. So if used as a specific tool for a specific purpose fine, and less problematical than WMO?
Good job,
I stayed for the whole video.
I really didn't hear any actual arguments in this. The closest you come is to say 'they might not last as long.' You're dismissing the whole point of them just on a maybe.
I don't know about water mixable oils... but definitely, from someone that has painted a lot with oils and acrylics, the colors are much more vivid, change less with time, the paint it self allows more richness, more texture, a wider color range, when using oils than acrylics. But I have no idea about water mixable oils. I will test them even if only to at least see how they go for me.
Rublev makes water mixable paints that only use food safe pigments--Titanium White, Cadmium hues--not Cadmium.
l'm hyper-sensitive to bright lights and chemicals in my world also certain foods with additives too ect -ect ...so l need to be careful it can be difficult for me as l'm on the (autism spectrum and that makes me more sensitive to lots of things, so interesting your info for me .Thanks
@@masteroilpainting Thanks :-)
I WOULD LOVE MORE INFO ON BRUSH CLEANING WITH TURPENOID NATURAL. LOVE YOUR VIDEOS AND YOUR PAINTINGS AND MAYBE EVEN YOU! IT IS OK.....I AM OLD ENOUGH TO BE YOUR MOTHER! YOU ARE A GREAT TEACHER!
Thank you for this information. I'm sticking with my traditional oil paints.
whatttt... why don't more people talk about terpenoid natural if its so good... now i gotta try some!!!
I never use water to dilute my water soluble paints I use water soluble linseed oil
if it is a little cheaper for me to make my paintings in such a way that a restorer does not have a nervous breakdown if my pictures end up there for Restoration,
then I'm happy to do it ;-).
Wood panels are even cheaper than canvases and the primer is usually cheaper to do yourself than to buy a ready-made acrylic primer which costs about 10 € per liter.
I've read that Turpenoid Natural can yellow your paints if you use it as a paint thinner. Is this true?
Do water mixables dry faster, slower, or at the same rate as traditional oils? I'm interested in oils because of their slow drying time. Acrylics dry too fast.
@@fyaerwe Depends on the Water-Soluble Medium you apply ... For E.X. ARTISAN SAFFLOWER OIL would dry slow; while Schmincke Medium W would dry fast
@fyaerwe
Have you tried a acrylic paint retarder like golden??
I think the video is very good, and I will send it as a link to all people who ask me about acrylic and oil paints ;-).
Iv'e been painting for 5 decades As soon as WMO oils came out I tried all the brands. I now prefer COBRA (Royal Talens) WMO same pigments as their Rembrandt range. I do not thin with water I thin with correct RT medium. I only use water for washing up. My health is much better for using them.
I'm glad to hear you found one you like and that painting with them helped you. Would you share more about the health issues you experienced before and after using WMOs? What is it about using WMOs that improved your health? I likely will never use WMOs, but I am a huge proponent of following your individual instincts. Much of my understanding has come from Robert Gamblin and George O'Hanlon (co-founder of Natural Pigments), but nobody has all the answers about art materials. From many of the comments, most are using WMOs to ease cleanup. Have you noticed other advantages? Thank you for your comment - we artists need each other, and I love learning from the shared experiences of others!
You say Gambling does not beleive in science but he is on science commitee ??????????
You are great artist but your talk lack of technical data, it is your opinion only , like I a like FORD and not GM.
Great Comment. Bill's a great artist but he simply doesn't do any real research on WMOs to even have a good opinion of them and that's all he has is his opinion.
He said Gamblin WAS all about science...
I don't use solvents; and I don't use water-miscible oils. So I'm entirely with you there. (By the way, what do you think about Alkyds?) I think you're a touch negative about acrylics, but - it's an open question right now. Turpenoid Natural - you say it's not a solvent, but it has to be a bit, hasn't it? Or it wouldn't remove paint? I do use soap and water on brushes, and have for many years: but then - I probably don't paint as much as you do; the cumulative damage (plus I have a lot of brushes) might not have become obvious to me - even after 50 years of doing it. I did try water miscibles - very briefly: they don't have the colour intensity, and for that reason alone I'd steer away from them. But I don't trust them, either.
I have a few WMOs in different brands. W&N is just horrible - it is overly stiff and has an awful smell, especially the blues. Cobra are OK but greasy rather than oily if you know what I mean. They simply do not compare to traditional oils in terms of vibrancy or consistency, even againsy the lower end artist quality brands. And I am pretty sure Cobra and W&N have cobalts and cadmiums in their range of colours too so they are not completely non toxic.
54 really 😦 wud a thought more like 40
In the case of soap, I have also found out that the 100% olive soap that I once brought from a holiday is better for my brush than a simple curd soap.
I get the oil paint out a little better and my brushes don't become brittle because the soap is moisturizing.
In any case, no shampoo should be used because shampoo removes all the fat from the hair only on the head the hair roots fatten the hair again, not in the brush.
Sound could be better. Great video, thank you!
Yes I had to turn up volume to hear his speech. The the random noisy adverts blare out much too loud.
You are exposing a common way of traditional opposition against an innovative technology which happens to be water soluble oils. Of course they are perfectible, but they are as good as the artist knowledge, flexibility and openness. Science of pigments and painting media has been evolving very fast. Artists must live in their times.
You are absolutely correct. Artists must live in their time and being aware of environment factors is more imperative than ever. Synthetic dye based colourants, unethical mining of mineral pigments, petrochemical based media (such as acrylic), and even growing and harvesting flax or wood should be approached with absolute respect and awareness of its implications.
Great info, thanks. Traditional oils are the best, but water mixable would be good as an introduction to painting.
I just have to be careful not to get a still life with a fly ;-). Otherwise, painting with oil paint is very relaxing for me.
Very Good....♫♫♫ going to greet my dear Bill♫...♫♫♫♪♪
well done....♫♫♫ congratulations ....♫♫♫
Your friend Franco from Peru ♫♫♫♪♪♪♪♪♪♪♪♪♪♪♪♪✅
I’ll stick to my water soluble oil paints . We all have the right to our own opinions
Good video but i recommend filming in snips and sections and editing them together. That way you can cut out the fluff, pauses, and repeats and get to the points. It also allows you to reshoot a sentence or statement if you didnt word it well the first time, or to just plan the next few minutes rather than trying to get an entire 30 minutes right in one go. Shooting this way means if you goof up once and wanted to redo it, youd have to redo the entire video. Maybe you arent concerned about that but It just makes for better neater videos. This was hard to follow and most people wont have the patience to sit through it. I want all of us artists to rate higher and be viewed more on this platform.
One of the reasons I love youtube is for its authenticity and that, within reason, people can upload what they want and in a manner that suits them. I cannot stand seeing polished videos on youtube - that was not its purpose. The videos I remember are the ones with stutters, gaffs and humanness in them. If they start to become too refined I will unsubscribe and not watch again. If I want high production standards I would watch TV (and I never watch TV)!
@@gaelhillyardcreative Totally i can appreciate a little unedited authenticity as well on occasion, but there's a reason most people are polishing their videos so much. Because most people feel the way i do and people lose views and subscribers and the interest of the watcher rather quickly this way. Its the same with teaching and public speaking. People just dont usually have the patience and attention span and find this sort of thing quite annoying. Im not saying full production quality and perfection. Im just saying out of practicality and consideration, try to make a video that isn't so painful to sit through. Trust me, this is the common viewpoint. Its a shame because its good information that most people wont even hear. Your choice of course. You have that freedom. But informed choices are better than ignorant ones. Now you know. Best of luck whatever you do.
I read once that water-mixable oil paints never completely release the water and, through their ingredients,
also absorb water from the air when the image is brought from a place with lower humidity to a place with a higher one.
So that the oil paint is constantly working and never dries completely.
There is no water in water mixable oil paint. Only if you introduce it.
I honestly don't buy the story that they don't know what happens in the future. These people aren't stupid, they have chemists and other experts that use different techniques to estimate how well these paints age. They can benchmark the performance against oil paints that they are familiar with. I don't actually hear you give a good argument other than: I don't like them and I dont see the issue.
Every liquid has a vapor pressure, thus the liquid evaporates. Including the oils themselves. No such thing as a fluid that doesn't put the chemical in the air. Your fooling your self. The harmful affects is related to concentration. Even water soluble paint release vapors. Solvent typically have higher vapor pressures thus release more into the air. Some people think water is better to add to the air then any other chemical from other solvents.
Dust in acrylic can't be remove, however; that is true for oil also. True for and highly viscous fluid. I can strain out all the dust through a filter but that isn't cheep or of any value.
Color into water mixable not available is a marketing issue since as you said the pigments are the same. The addition of water into the oil creates thousands of surfaces that deflect and absorb light which is why the color is duller. When dry not all of those interfaces are gone.
The chemist change say 5% or less of the seed oil to make the surface tension different so that water can reduce it further and thus break it up, soluble. The differences in the seed oils themselves are similar.
As you said seed oil dry differently which is due to chemical differences.
Oxidation and evaporation of weak bonds chemicals is the reason the paint dries. Thus when you add a solvent to clean dried paint what your doing is activating weak bonds with a new chemical that lowers the viscosity. Soap and water and solvents changes surface tension that causes the breaking up of a liquid into drops.
Oxidation is permanent and in the end all the weak bond site will oxidize. So likely the differences between water soluble paints will be of the order of differences similar to the different seed oils.
This is likely the testing going on. Force oxidation and evaporation to accelerate drying, however; the method of forcing changes the chemistry which is the rub. What is done is to compare the test to actual long term drying to get a correction factor. Can be done with seed oils, but they are chemically changed so the chemist have to determine if the correction factor is also changed. That makes the problem difficult.
Your knowledge about water mixable oils is very sparse and inaccurate.
Water mixable oil paint are oil paints. With an emulsifier in it. You don't have to mix it with water. You can mix it with linseed oil. Or other medium.
Much of the information you said in this video are inaccurate.
You took a very long time before explaining that you doubt water mixable oils are archival. You get into a lot of side topics. Explaining the advantages of the natural cleaning product you like is helpful. It would be great to simply state you can clean brushes safely and dissolve old oil paint with Turpenoid Naturals. But other than that, if you stick to your thoughts about the non-archival quality you would hold my interest. I don’t know that you have the true authority to make the archival claim. Had you explained that further you would be on topic and win this one artist’s respect.
Next time, please write down what you are going to say beforehand so that the videos is a little bit more professional, your presentation is so unprepared that it is difficult to listen to
to me fine art = oil painting. no acrylic non of that plastic bull lol. oil is the medium of the masters.
I guess my thing is if a person wants to use water mixable oils because of health issues or sensitivities, then let them. Art is different for each person. This "purists" idea that floats around from artists that dislike something new or different is ridiculous. You basically trashed acrylic artists and their medium which is beyond rude, art comes in all forms whether you like it, understand it or not.
Should use a script and edit next time (or at least outline notes). You are all over the board dude.