Great idea with a roller! I am printing a lot of these bases for my minis, and spreading glue with brush, stick (whatever...) is tedious :). I am leaving now...to get me a roller :D. Thanks for that!
Cheers! I'd been putting off working on my movement trays for months because I dreaded applying glue with a brush. I'm glad the idea is going to help you!
What an incredibly helpful tutorial. Seeing this and your other minis, i was wondering, do you paint the grout/sand mixture at all on the trays or your minis? It looks like you might be applying the grout/sand on the mini after you paint. It looks great and man would that save a lot of time not having to always paint/highlight sand.
Thank you. I'm glad you found it helpful. You are correct, I do not paint the grout mixture and it goes on after the miniature is painted. I think I misspoke in the video, so let me clear that up. It's a mixture of grout (beige coloured) and soil. I should probably think about making a quick video on this, but if you're interested: The grout provides a very fine powder that better replicates soil at this scale than sand does. It is very lightly coloured though. This is where the soil comes in. By mixing with soil, you darken the colour of the grout and add small bits of grit. The colour is strong enough that you can put it directly over a black, unpainted base and it will cover it well. Putting the water and glue mix onto the grout causes it to set and you get a very hard wearing basing material. If there are any gaps or black areas when it dries, you hide those with static grass. Paint the rim black and your done! It's very quick and easy.
@@AshandStoneNZ Thank you very much for further explaining. If I could trouble you for one more clarification. Is it actual soil, like dirt or potting soil?
@@TomMasonSculptor No worries. Actual dirt. I grabbed it from the garden, put it through a cheap blender to break it up and mixed it in. I've heard some people recommend baking the soil to kill off anything in it. But to be honest, I've never done it, and in three years of models, terrain and boards, I've never had any issue.
i've never seen it but i wonder if neoprene contact adhesive would be a good alternative to pva. The issue i seem to have with pva on plastic is that it peals off.
I've never tried it, so I couldn't tell you if it would work or not. The 3D printed movement trays I use have plenty of texture on the surface which means the PVA has plenty to grab on to. If you are using a smooth plastic tray you could try giving it a quick sand with some 80 - 120grit sandpaper to rough up the surface, which will allow the PVA to adhere better.
I have been ponering how best to do this, and the roller is the perfect solution. Thank you!
No worries Chris! Glad to help!
I love the oathmark humans you put in the tray when it was finished!
Great tutorial. I will be using it in the future.
Cheers! I'm glad you found it useful!
Awesome idea. I guess a print roller that they use for rubber stamps would work really well for this.
That's the one! A print roller or print brayer would be perfect. It makes smashing out a load of trays a breeze.
Great idea with a roller! I am printing a lot of these bases for my minis, and spreading glue with brush, stick (whatever...) is tedious :). I am leaving now...to get me a roller :D. Thanks for that!
Cheers! I'd been putting off working on my movement trays for months because I dreaded applying glue with a brush. I'm glad the idea is going to help you!
Excellent tip!
This trick is brilliant!
I hope you make great use of it!
What an incredibly helpful tutorial.
Seeing this and your other minis, i was wondering, do you paint the grout/sand mixture at all on the trays or your minis? It looks like you might be applying the grout/sand on the mini after you paint.
It looks great and man would that save a lot of time not having to always paint/highlight sand.
Thank you. I'm glad you found it helpful.
You are correct, I do not paint the grout mixture and it goes on after the miniature is painted.
I think I misspoke in the video, so let me clear that up. It's a mixture of grout (beige coloured) and soil.
I should probably think about making a quick video on this, but if you're interested:
The grout provides a very fine powder that better replicates soil at this scale than sand does. It is very lightly coloured though.
This is where the soil comes in. By mixing with soil, you darken the colour of the grout and add small bits of grit.
The colour is strong enough that you can put it directly over a black, unpainted base and it will cover it well.
Putting the water and glue mix onto the grout causes it to set and you get a very hard wearing basing material.
If there are any gaps or black areas when it dries, you hide those with static grass.
Paint the rim black and your done!
It's very quick and easy.
@@AshandStoneNZ Thank you very much for further explaining. If I could trouble you for one more clarification. Is it actual soil, like dirt or potting soil?
@@TomMasonSculptor No worries. Actual dirt.
I grabbed it from the garden, put it through a cheap blender to break it up and mixed it in.
I've heard some people recommend baking the soil to kill off anything in it. But to be honest, I've never done it, and in three years of models, terrain and boards, I've never had any issue.
@@AshandStoneNZ Thanks! I'll keep an eye out for your next video.
i've never seen it but i wonder if neoprene contact adhesive would be a good alternative to pva. The issue i seem to have with pva on plastic is that it peals off.
I've never tried it, so I couldn't tell you if it would work or not.
The 3D printed movement trays I use have plenty of texture on the surface which means the PVA has plenty to grab on to. If you are using a smooth plastic tray you could try giving it a quick sand with some 80 - 120grit sandpaper to rough up the surface, which will allow the PVA to adhere better.
Why are most movement trays made for age of sigmart
No idea. Never played it. These ones certainly weren't made for it.