As the Prop Turns | Setting the Hook in Crowded Anchroages

Our guest speaker for this episode is Glen W. from Anacortes, WA. Glen has owned two Ranger Tugs and has trained many Cutwater and Ranger Tug owners. In this episode, Glen shares his method for finding a safe spot to anchor in a crowded anchorage using his onboard electronics.

[@todddunn945]

I have a couple of comments about things I didn't hear mentioned. First the type of anchor rode matters. By that I mean all chain versus a mixed rode (small piece of chain (say 30') and then line). A boat anchored with all chain rode will often have less scope out than a boat with a mixed rode. For example the rule of thumb that I learned when I started boating was 7:1 scope for mixed rode that is mostly line and 4:1 scope for all chain rode. In light air the scope may be less for both rode types. So you can expect a boat with an all chain rode may have less scope and hence a smaller swing circle than a boat with a mixed rode. For example in the example given on the video (32' depth at high tide plus roller height) an all chain boat may only have 130' of rode out where a mixed road boat could have as much as 225'. Also boats with an all chain rode tend to sail less on the anchor than a boat with a mixed rode simply due to the weight of the chain. When anchoring in a crowded anchorage it is a good idea to note the type of rode the nearby boats have and then for safety assume that the chain rode boats have less scope than the mixed rode boats. In light air with little current it is not uncommon for an all chain boat to sit in one spot and not swing simply because of the weight of the chain. That does not happen with mixed rode boats because of the lack of rode weight.
Second here in Maine I often anchor in relatively small coves behind islands. In that situation the prevailing winds and currents may vary quite a lot out near the mouth of the code. You need to consider this when anchoring near the mouth of a cove particularly if other boats are in the anchorage or just outside the cove because they may lie to the anchors quite differently, which can cause collisions.
Third, I always consider the weather forecast paying particular attention to forecast wind shifts. Say I come into an anchorage with a southerly wind that is forecast to clock to the west during the night. Rather than set my anchor by backing downwind from where I drop anchor, I will split the difference between the current wind direction and the forecast wind direction favoring the wind direction forecast to be strongest.
Fourth, windlass manufacturers generally say NOT to pull the boat forward with the windlass. I find it is best to give the boat a pulse of power forward, retrieve rode until the slack is pulled in then give the boat another pulse in forward. I also have a washdown pump that I use to rinse the rode as it comes out of the water.
As far as setting the anchor goes, I find it helpful to drop anchor and then wait 15 minutes of so before backing down on the anchor. My engine maxes out at 3,000 rpm so I generally back down at about 1500 rpm. You can tell if you are stopped when backing down on the anchor by looking at the water. Do not use a paddle wheel type speed indicator since prop wash will turn it and give an erroneous speed indication. Since I use all chain rode I use a chain stopper and a snubber line to a chain hook I attach to the chain.
Note. I use all chain rode. My anchoring experience only spans about 55 years so I am sure I have missed something.

[@BlueRidgeMarine]

Great demonstration 👍

[@jlstanley1954]

Thank you!

[@glenwagner3475]

You are very welcome.

[@juanfigueroa4991]

@@glenwagner3475

[@lisabrink6050]

He’s awesome! Thanks Glen. Can we hire you for a lesson? Vancouver Dawid and Lisa