The other scenario I would recommend this investment for is someone with a deep archive of existing negatives, that’s the main reason I wanted to jump on this system to rescan everything someday ☺️🤘🏽 Happy to make a cameo in this video my dude, also those 35mm scans are wild 😘👌🏽✨
Thanks for introducing me to this world, sir! And yes that is also a great point. That’s actually the majority of what I’ve been using it for the past few months haha.
@@BraeHunziker Hey Brae - the cheat code for getting super high resolution scans with a camera is to buy a used Olympus EM5ii and a TTArtisan 40mm 1:1 F2.8 macro. You can get the pair for about $450. that combination because of the pixel shift will give you 4 by 3 64 megapixel raw scans, 52 megapixel 35 mm, and approximately 56mp 6x7. Getting a 20mp micro four thirds body will bump the pixel count just a bit. The cheapo Olympus outperforms the R5 in my testing. I just leave it set up full time on the copy stand and treat it like a scanner:) The Olympus USB tethering software, the latest version still supports that old em5, so my scans go straight to the computer too. Cheers! Edit1: Also- have a look at Negmaster. It has replaced negative lab Pro in my workflow. Edit2: With micro four-thirds 16 megapixel sensor cameras diffraction kicks in beyond F8 so I have found the best sharpness at F8. For 20 megapixel sensors it sets in starting after F7.1.
Correct! This saves a lot of time, and then after I usually delete the conversions from Lightroom just for documenting sake. I keep the negative photos in the original folder of course, just not in my Lightroom library
Hey! Brennan from NS checking in. I’m the Business Development Manager for Negative Supply. I can clear a few things up here. The $1699 price is what the kit is priced at. The $2192 figure comes from what everything would cost if purchased separately. Regarding the price of our tools (especially the pro stuff) we realized this which is why we have a Basic line that’s far less expensive. For example we have a Basic Kit that does the exact same thing the Premium Curated Kit does for $749 MSRP ($599 on sale). All of our Basic tools are on sale through the end of the month by the way. Regarding our pricing, we employ 10 people in Southern California, have a production shop, use USA sourced materials and use local machine and anodizing shops. We believe in supporting our community with everything. We hand assemble literally every part that leaves our shop and design and R&D everything in house. Running a business that’s profitable that can afford to attend events, develop new products and hire new people and specialists to design and build these tools does cost a lot of money but we think it’s the path forward for film scanning in the future.
Indeed the biggest problem is the price. You get the same with the Novoflex copy stand (even much more sturdy than the NLP one !) and add the essential film holder with all options and a kaiser light source for a fraction of the price.
I’d love to see a video on different scan tests. I’ve done some myself, scanning 35mm on an Canon R5 & EF 100mm macro lens at different f stops. My next roll I want to test different scanning exposures.
Just a note on your setup, you should upgrade the backlight you use on it. Watch how the colors look quite saturated even on 3 saturation of nlp and the gradients are not as smooth as they could be. Look how the portra 800 scan has kinda a yellow leak of light on the edge of the leaf on the left. The sharpness you're getting is great, especially out of the 120 scans, but you just gotta upgrade the backlight, trust me it's gonna be so worth it. A note on the conversion process in nlp for BW. You do not need to white balance for BW, the results will look the same. You're wasting time in the process. I really recommend going to the nlp forum and reading up, there are a lot of helpful tips in there. Another time saving tip for those who didn't know, the shortcut for crop in LR is: R. And the shortcut for rotate is: ctrl/cmd + [ ]. I've also seen great results with a dedicated 35mm film scanner like the plusteks, they're cheap and can outperform bad dslr setups for those who don't have a dslr. The setup time is quicker and the space it takes up is also much smaller. Overall much simpler to use, but you trade it for much slower scan times. As for 120, dslr just seems to be THE way to do it, if you don't have a drum scanner or an imacon and want great resolution. Even labs lack the resolution you can pull with a dslr, but again your setup needs to be quite thought out and perfect to look good. A good flatbed will do, for those who want a convenient, decent and cheap way to get results. I really hope this was helpful to someone, these are some of the tips I would have wanted when I started with home scanning. I don't want anyone to feel like they need an expensive setup, it's all about your process and satisfaction in it that's important.
@@lenhister There’s an awesome video by Pushing Film on light sources which will help you decide depending on your budget. But usually the higher CRI the better. ua-cam.com/video/wMTVt3hD5bo/v-deo.html
I picked this system up last year and have been adding pieces. I started developing and scanning at home and this system makes it so much faster to scan and my wife gets less annoyed with me doing it more frequently, so definitely worth the investment for me haha
I actually got into dslr scanning because of your video with Rafael and im loving the results. But I went on the Valoi 360 route and its working great. A7Rii, 50mm 2.8 macro, got a Durst enlarger without the head for like 20€ and a Kaiser light source. Its way more fun and faster then my old Epson V600 and the results speak for itself. Keep up the great work. Greetings from Germany
Heck yeah!! Love it. How’s that 50mm lens? You able to get close enough to cover the full neg? I was wondering what the shortest focal length you could use is.
@@BraeHunziker Yeah, i can scan the whole negative. I got the 50 because I am more into shorter focal lengths in general, so I can use the lens and camera if i want. The scanner was just sitting on my desk and had only one job. So a win win in my books. But as you mentioned in the video, its a bigger investment in general.
Pro tip. Nikon d800 is a great option for this. $500 used at 36 megapixels. I’ve printed 120 at 30x30 prints and the look great. The 60mm 2.8d is the lens I used
Happy you made this video Brae! I use the essential film holder which is significantly cheaper than the negative supply set up. I bought my own macro lens used for my DSLR + separate LED light and copy stand. It is roughly $500 USD for all the pieces (plus other accessories). I'm loving it! Upgraded to the borders mask for 35mm & 120 for $75 usd after a year of use. It's made scanning so much easier and so much fun. The detail you get out of 35mm is insane. Plus if you incorporate stitching for 120 film you can get massive files out of a 24 megapixel camera. This scanning process is incredibly modular. I hope this comment helps someone dive deeper into this and find cheaper solutions, they are out there!
You mentioned experimenting with exposure. Something I always wanted to try was shooting bracketed exposures of a film negative and putting those in an HDR processor, such as Photomatix, to get as much dynamic range into the digital image as is available on the film. I tried that with a regular scanner (Epson V700), but could never get the software to cooperate, it always wanted to adjust exposure for me, so the scan always ended up with far less dynamic range than I knew was present in the film. I've been thinking that this may be a way to get the full range of black and white from the film to an image like was done on film in the early days.
I have a friend with the Negative Supply kit and it's great but it's way too expensive. I ended up going with the Essential Film Holder (EFH) from a gentleman in the UK and a 99% CRI light panel from that jungle website and a used copy stand. My whole setup (minus the camera and macro lens) cost me about $200 for similar functionality. I do find the computer workflow tedious compared to using my flatbed scanner (cropping each frame, loading NLP, adjustments for each frame etc but I do find the "scanning" or capture workflow a LOT faster so I guess it works out in the end. The end results have significantly more detail and are sharper which is really the most important part of it for me.
I’ll have to look at those Essential Holders. I’m a big fan of the speed and efficiency of the dslr process. As you mentioned, I do think it’s still quite a bit faster than going the flatbed route when it’s all said and done.
@@BraeHunziker it's a solid little set, you can buy a kit with multiple mask sizes. On pro tip for the EFH is to cut the end of the negative with a slight angle, it helps when you're feeding it and saves having to wiggle it to get it through the film gate.
Well, they are making these out of metal and I believe it's all manufactured in Cali. I doubt they're profiting that much. I think they're the highest quality kits out there and I've tried to rationalize spending that amount but I just can't do it.
@@BraeHunziker me either. I'd watched the video minutes after it was posted and commented; that one disappeared. I also commented on this thread a second time with similar information and it disappeared again. May have fallen victim to the "banned words" gods or something but can't see why given then comment content. No worries though.
Great video! FYI you dont need to export as a tiff the way you did, you can make a Tiff directly from NLP, in the NLP editing window at the bottom left you will see 'Make Copy', check that box then click apply and NLP will make you a Tiff which will show up either as a stack with your photo or in a subfolder. You can decide your settings in the 'Advanced tab' on if you want the copy to be a Tiff or jpeg, Bits, compression, the name of the subfolder if you chhoose that option, etc.
This light source I was using wasn't very bright so I needed a higher ISO in order to keep my shutter speed relatively fast. I suppose it doesn’t matter too much because the camera is mounted on the copy stand, but I still like to keep my shutter speed faster than 1/60th if possible to ensure sharpness. The new light source I use is quite a bit brighter so now I primarily scan at 200 ISO.
I enjoyed the video and found it very informative. I currently own a Nikon D3100 and am curious if it is suitable for scanning negatives. Would a 12MP camera be sufficient for producing high-quality scans? Additionally, I am looking to purchase a Micro lens.
How's the DMAX compared to using a flatbed scanner like the Epson 600 or 800 series? What about dust and scratch removal? I use both a flatbed and Plustek scanner and I'm pretty happy with the results.
You know, I’d be interested in seeing if the light source they sell is worth the price tag. As in, what if I bought a cheaper 95+ cri light from Amazon and compared it to their basic light. Will it yield similar results?
You scan in a well lit room? I thought you should have a dark room for that [since scanning in the morning vs afternoon might vary your results due to the light outside
@@BraeHunziker That's important to understand. The reason I try to think of anything that could give you slightly different results- is that if you get those damn color shifts within different frames from the same scene you shot- then it's a real bummer to sit down and match all colors into a seamless flow. That's why minimizing ambient light seemed important. Then again, it could be that Negative Lab Pro's automatic inversion of the image- could create color shifts by itself, since the process is automatic... :\
I am only beginning to shoot digital and loved seeing this video on converting film stock! It is an art all its own for sure. I grew up when film stock was still being used and I did take a class in school on taking pictures and then developing them in the dark room. It does take patience and time. For right now, I am trying to get better with digital, and maybe down the road I will try film stock. Awesome video Brae!✌️
I really wanted one of these kits until I saw the price, haha. I ended up going with an Epson V600 and have had pretty good results on my 120 film but I haven't tried 35mm on it yet , as I've heard it's not so great for 35mm (not sure why). I don't have any ANR glass yet but I think it's something I need to get soon because I get Newton rings on a couple frames per roll when using the provided negative carrier and it drives me absolutely crazy. I'm hoping to pick up another 35mm camera soon so I'm still considering DSLR scanning with my 5DMKIV and 100mm L Macro just for the sake of speed (and those damn Newton rings lol).
Yeah I think if they were able to bring the price down to the $750 range, this kit would be a no-brainer for many people. I’d highly recommend a film carrier for 35mm and dslr scanning! It is especially beneficial for 35mm not only for the increase in speed, but also much higher quality results 🤠
Brae, did you have issues with the 35mm film popping out of the guides using the full border holder? I’ve had two sets of the borders and both times, it’s like the guides were manufactured too “thin” and so the film pops out on one side and doesn’t “lay flat”
Oh weird, I have not had that issue with the 35mm guides. I had an issue with the first 120 holder I had. The inserts were too thin and the film would not fit.
@@BraeHunziker I'm curious about the full border mask for 120. Does the film go under/over the anti-newton ring glass? I haven’t seen anyone explain this clearly, and the negative supply doesn’t mention it in the instructions whatsoever. Thanks!
Interesting and informative. I'm more thinking about how I might scan really old film, and also mounted slides, that I photographed in my youth and that my parents photographed. Wow, obviously no one size fits all solution is going to exist. Thanks for the thought provoking video.
We actually developed a tool just for this. With the 99 CRI Basic light and the Mounted Slide Holder Scanning Kit you’ll be all set if you have a tripod.
Great review.With real life pros and cons. But for eff sake!! $2000??!! Alternatives? Stand - My Manfrotto tripod allows me to reinsert the center post so I can shoot straight down. ANR glass - See comments about museum glass. Last piece I bought from Hobby Lobby, $12 Film carriers - Bessler 23C negative carriers from my enlarger ($30 a piece on eBay) Light source - Kaiser LED color balanced light pad $165 B&H So I am ready to scan at 1/10th the cost. No, it isn’t anywhere near as finished and good looking as what you reviewed but did I mention my hillbilly setup is 1/10th the cost? Don’t get me wrong, I would love to have what you have but I’m a poor cheap bastard.
@@BrennanMcKissick That less than $500 includes the processing software. Also your kit is only cheaper if you already have a good enough camera & lens otherwise it's not.
@@acmdv nearly any interchangeable lens camera made within the last 5-7 years is going to have a better sensor than a dedicated scanner from Plustek or a flatbed. We’ve scanned images with a Rebel and a 60mm macro that look killer and there’s lots of users with a5XXX cameras with old, generic 1:1 macros that do great. You don’t need a $1000 lens and a $2500 camera to get good results.
I don't care for the Negative Supply modular set up - it's too fiddly, the dust brush doesn't align (who the hell designed that ?), & having to place a glass plate to keep the negative flat ? Oh no. Give me Valoi modular copy equipment anyday, be it 35mm, Medium or Large Format - it's also considerably cheaper. I note you're using Adobe software - you must have money to burn.....hey, each to their own.....
I don’t get it, you shoot film then shoot that film with a digital camera… why not just cut the hipster step and shoot film and develop film or shoot digital
Hey Brae, would this work for scanning XPan shots? I'm guessing it'd just have to be in the 120 film holder instead of the 35mm? I'd love to get into scanning my own film, but if I can't scan film from every camera I have, then I'm not sure I want to invest. edit: Well, I'm dumb. Posted this around the 1 minute mark and at 1:30 you talk how soon they're gonna do a panorama carrier. Guess you already answered my question then hah
Haha no problem!! Yeah that new carrier will be able to fit xpan shots! You can still scan them with the OG carrier just by stitching the images together, but the new carrier will allow for single shot scans 👍🏻
Lomo Digitaliza Plus costs $79 and does exactly the same job. I'd rather stock with film for $1620. Greed in analogue photography community reached the peak!
As I mentioned, there are cheaper alternatives that achieve comparable results. I think labeling the expensive price as “greed” is a bit foolish as there are many factors that the company has to consider such as paying employees a fair wage, R&D, and many other things that consumers do not think about when it comes to running a business. At the end of the day, it’s an expensive kit and likely only makes sense for a select few. This video is just meant to demonstrate the functionality of a setup like this and the results one can achieve from film scanning with a dslr in general. Thank you for the feedback!
@@BraeHunziker I agree, there are many factors that affect the price. I don’t know the margins, the wages or the profits of NS. Price doesn’t reflect the capability of the product IMO, accounts for all the peripherals but not for the product itself. NS marketing is directed to those with deep pockets i think. Cheaper alternatives only prove that. Any Digital Camera scanning equipment is as good as your digital camera and the lens are. Despite the really good quality of NS, the final result depends 90% on the camera/lens combination and your work process. NS helps to keep this work flow more controllable. My question is: is that worth $1700 or more? NS is not an equivalent of Hasselblad or Leica when it comes to digital scanning however, the price tag is. You have said there are other cheaper options available and hats off to you for saying this. But the video shows only NS cheaper alternatives? Also section “Look at that DETAIL” should apply only to the camera/lens combo. Nothing to do with NS! In my personal opinion, money could be better spent on cheaper equivalent/flatbed scanner/dedicated film scanner (not many in 120 format), NLP (which is an amazing software), VUE scan (again gives additional options to any scanner), etc. Keep up a good work Brae!
@@mattk8771 thanks for this! However, we do have a Basic line that’s targeted at lower price points and directly competes on price with the other cheaper offerings out there. These still work with our ecosystem and allow for an upgrade path in the future. I’m not aware of any other manufacturer in this price point that makes a 100% complete system.
@@mattk8771 yea I mean that section is literally entirely about the camera and lens. I mention nothing about NS supply being the reason for the high sharpness and detail of the scan. Rather, I mention the scan will only get better if a better camera is used. I appreciate your thoughts on the matter 🤝
It's good that film photographers have alternative methods of digitizing their negatives, but this set up as well made as it seems, works out very very expensive, and it falls flat on its face for those photographers who use 4x5 and 8x10 cameras whose numbers are actually quite considerable. I am afraid a , $1000 Epson is the way to go. Sorry, not for me. Thank you for your efforts.
The Epson Flatbed? The results I’ve gotten have been rather disappointing particularly for 35mm. A setup like this also speeds up the process immensely. An epson flatbed isn’t too bad for 120 film but I quite prefer the colors I get from the RAW files and NLP. That’s just me though!
The other scenario I would recommend this investment for is someone with a deep archive of existing negatives, that’s the main reason I wanted to jump on this system to rescan everything someday ☺️🤘🏽
Happy to make a cameo in this video my dude, also those 35mm scans are wild 😘👌🏽✨
Thanks for introducing me to this world, sir! And yes that is also a great point. That’s actually the majority of what I’ve been using it for the past few months haha.
@@BraeHunziker Hey Brae - the cheat code for getting super high resolution scans with a camera is to buy a used Olympus EM5ii and a TTArtisan 40mm 1:1 F2.8 macro. You can get the pair for about $450. that combination because of the pixel shift will give you 4 by 3 64 megapixel raw scans, 52 megapixel 35 mm, and approximately 56mp 6x7. Getting a 20mp micro four thirds body will bump the pixel count just a bit. The cheapo Olympus outperforms the R5 in my testing. I just leave it set up full time on the copy stand and treat it like a scanner:) The Olympus USB tethering software, the latest version still supports that old em5, so my scans go straight to the computer too. Cheers!
Edit1: Also- have a look at Negmaster. It has replaced negative lab Pro in my workflow.
Edit2: With micro four-thirds 16 megapixel sensor cameras diffraction kicks in beyond F8 so I have found the best sharpness at F8. For 20 megapixel sensors it sets in starting after F7.1.
The photos came out so clean and you got straight to the point. Hell yeah dude. Thanks for sharing. 🤙🏼
No problem! Thanks for watching 🤠
You can also check the "make a copy" before finishing on negative lab pro, and you don't have to export/re import after that
Oh great tip! Thank you!
Correct! This saves a lot of time, and then after I usually delete the conversions from Lightroom just for documenting sake. I keep the negative photos in the original folder of course, just not in my Lightroom library
I get amazing scans with my bunk ass setup but I’ve always loved their products. Very well made and AJ is a fantastic dude on top of it.
100%
Hey! Brennan from NS checking in. I’m the Business Development Manager for Negative Supply. I can clear a few things up here. The $1699 price is what the kit is priced at. The $2192 figure comes from what everything would cost if purchased separately. Regarding the price of our tools (especially the pro stuff) we realized this which is why we have a Basic line that’s far less expensive. For example we have a Basic Kit that does the exact same thing the Premium Curated Kit does for $749 MSRP ($599 on sale). All of our Basic tools are on sale through the end of the month by the way.
Regarding our pricing, we employ 10 people in Southern California, have a production shop, use USA sourced materials and use local machine and anodizing shops. We believe in supporting our community with everything. We hand assemble literally every part that leaves our shop and design and R&D everything in house. Running a business that’s profitable that can afford to attend events, develop new products and hire new people and specialists to design and build these tools does cost a lot of money but we think it’s the path forward for film scanning in the future.
Thanks for this reply, Brennan. I do appreciate NS creative tools and gear that is aiding in the resurgence of the medium 👊🏻
Yes, please show use more in depth scanning and using negative lab pro 🎉🎉
👍🏼
Indeed the biggest problem is the price. You get the same with the Novoflex copy stand (even much more sturdy than the NLP one !) and add the essential film holder with all options and a kaiser light source for a fraction of the price.
I’d love to see a video on different scan tests. I’ve done some myself, scanning 35mm on an Canon R5 & EF 100mm macro lens at different f stops. My next roll I want to test different scanning exposures.
Noted! What f stop have you found works best?
The honest opinion is much appreciated!
this company is a scam with $10 parts marked up to over $100.
What is that light table you have with the negatives on?
Yes I want to see more videos about this scanning and about negativ lab Pro
Just a note on your setup, you should upgrade the backlight you use on it. Watch how the colors look quite saturated even on 3 saturation of nlp and the gradients are not as smooth as they could be. Look how the portra 800 scan has kinda a yellow leak of light on the edge of the leaf on the left. The sharpness you're getting is great, especially out of the 120 scans, but you just gotta upgrade the backlight, trust me it's gonna be so worth it.
A note on the conversion process in nlp for BW. You do not need to white balance for BW, the results will look the same. You're wasting time in the process. I really recommend going to the nlp forum and reading up, there are a lot of helpful tips in there. Another time saving tip for those who didn't know, the shortcut for crop in LR is: R. And the shortcut for rotate is: ctrl/cmd + [ ].
I've also seen great results with a dedicated 35mm film scanner like the plusteks, they're cheap and can outperform bad dslr setups for those who don't have a dslr. The setup time is quicker and the space it takes up is also much smaller. Overall much simpler to use, but you trade it for much slower scan times.
As for 120, dslr just seems to be THE way to do it, if you don't have a drum scanner or an imacon and want great resolution. Even labs lack the resolution you can pull with a dslr, but again your setup needs to be quite thought out and perfect to look good. A good flatbed will do, for those who want a convenient, decent and cheap way to get results.
I really hope this was helpful to someone, these are some of the tips I would have wanted when I started with home scanning. I don't want anyone to feel like they need an expensive setup, it's all about your process and satisfaction in it that's important.
What backlight would you recommend as an upgrade?
@@lenhister There’s an awesome video by Pushing Film on light sources which will help you decide depending on your budget. But usually the higher CRI the better. ua-cam.com/video/wMTVt3hD5bo/v-deo.html
I picked this system up last year and have been adding pieces. I started developing and scanning at home and this system makes it so much faster to scan and my wife gets less annoyed with me doing it more frequently, so definitely worth the investment for me haha
Haha perfect 😂
I actually got into dslr scanning because of your video with Rafael and im loving the results. But I went on the Valoi 360 route and its working great. A7Rii, 50mm 2.8 macro, got a Durst enlarger without the head for like 20€ and a Kaiser light source. Its way more fun and faster then my old Epson V600 and the results speak for itself. Keep up the great work.
Greetings from Germany
Heck yeah!! Love it. How’s that 50mm lens? You able to get close enough to cover the full neg? I was wondering what the shortest focal length you could use is.
👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
@@BraeHunziker Yeah, i can scan the whole negative. I got the 50 because I am more into shorter focal lengths in general, so I can use the lens and camera if i want. The scanner was just sitting on my desk and had only one job. So a win win in my books. But as you mentioned in the video, its a bigger investment in general.
This is perfect, about to finally ditch the damn Epson
🙌🏻
Brae is the kind of photographer you want shooting all of your important life events. Thank you for another educational video! ❤
Thanks dude! Appreciate you 👊🏻
Pro tip. Nikon d800 is a great option for this. $500 used at 36 megapixels. I’ve printed 120 at 30x30 prints and the look great. The 60mm 2.8d is the lens I used
Great tip. Thank you for the feedback!
Yepp my setup
Happy you made this video Brae! I use the essential film holder which is significantly cheaper than the negative supply set up. I bought my own macro lens used for my DSLR + separate LED light and copy stand. It is roughly $500 USD for all the pieces (plus other accessories). I'm loving it! Upgraded to the borders mask for 35mm & 120 for $75 usd after a year of use. It's made scanning so much easier and so much fun. The detail you get out of 35mm is insane. Plus if you incorporate stitching for 120 film you can get massive files out of a 24 megapixel camera. This scanning process is incredibly modular. I hope this comment helps someone dive deeper into this and find cheaper solutions, they are out there!
Right on!! That sounds like a great setup. Thank you for sharing!
Can you make a videp and test out the holder for mounted slides? Thanks for a good video.
You mentioned experimenting with exposure. Something I always wanted to try was shooting bracketed exposures of a film negative and putting those in an HDR processor, such as Photomatix, to get as much dynamic range into the digital image as is available on the film. I tried that with a regular scanner (Epson V700), but could never get the software to cooperate, it always wanted to adjust exposure for me, so the scan always ended up with far less dynamic range than I knew was present in the film. I've been thinking that this may be a way to get the full range of black and white from the film to an image like was done on film in the early days.
What is the value added by the mounting kit (not literally, I'm sure like everything else it too comes with a hefty price tag)?
Have you compared with Valoi full 360 kit ?
I have a friend with the Negative Supply kit and it's great but it's way too expensive. I ended up going with the Essential Film Holder (EFH) from a gentleman in the UK and a 99% CRI light panel from that jungle website and a used copy stand. My whole setup (minus the camera and macro lens) cost me about $200 for similar functionality. I do find the computer workflow tedious compared to using my flatbed scanner (cropping each frame, loading NLP, adjustments for each frame etc but I do find the "scanning" or capture workflow a LOT faster so I guess it works out in the end. The end results have significantly more detail and are sharper which is really the most important part of it for me.
I’ll have to look at those Essential Holders. I’m a big fan of the speed and efficiency of the dslr process. As you mentioned, I do think it’s still quite a bit faster than going the flatbed route when it’s all said and done.
@@BraeHunziker it's a solid little set, you can buy a kit with multiple mask sizes. On pro tip for the EFH is to cut the end of the negative with a slight angle, it helps when you're feeding it and saves having to wiggle it to get it through the film gate.
@@MrCodyswanson gotcha, thanks for this!
$2200 bucks lol when you care more about the profits then the film community smh they are probably making $1600 bucks profit off each sale at $2200.
I posed a comment here earlier about some 3d printable alternatives that you can print for dirt cheap but seems it got deleted.
Well, they are making these out of metal and I believe it's all manufactured in Cali. I doubt they're profiting that much. I think they're the highest quality kits out there and I've tried to rationalize spending that amount but I just can't do it.
I’m not sure where your comment is. Yes, there are cheaper alternatives to get comparable results.
I have no clue what their margins are on these kits. It’s great for some people in certain circumstances. It’s not so great for other people.
@@BraeHunziker me either. I'd watched the video minutes after it was posted and commented; that one disappeared. I also commented on this thread a second time with similar information and it disappeared again. May have fallen victim to the "banned words" gods or something but can't see why given then comment content.
No worries though.
Part time?! How about full time now.😥
are u scanning medium format film with a ff dslr? bahahahhaha
I believe ANR glass is also sold as museum grade glass, which you can get from most any frame shop, they will also cut it to the dimensions you want.
Great tip, thank you!
for medium format honestly I love my v600 its a little slow but the scans I get are great especially for the price
I’ve heard flatbed scanning 120 film can definitely deliver awesome results!
Great video! FYI you dont need to export as a tiff the way you did, you can make a Tiff directly from NLP, in the NLP editing window at the bottom left you will see 'Make Copy', check that box then click apply and NLP will make you a Tiff which will show up either as a stack with your photo or in a subfolder. You can decide your settings in the 'Advanced tab' on if you want the copy to be a Tiff or jpeg, Bits, compression, the name of the subfolder if you chhoose that option, etc.
Someone else mentioned this, thanks for the tip!
@@BraeHunziker ya man for sure! Agaiin hit me up if you are ever in Port Townsend , we can take out the 67's!
very curious, why do you shoot with a slightly higher ISO? i use aperture prio mode and ISO100, should i use a higher ISO?
This light source I was using wasn't very bright so I needed a higher ISO in order to keep my shutter speed relatively fast. I suppose it doesn’t matter too much because the camera is mounted on the copy stand, but I still like to keep my shutter speed faster than 1/60th if possible to ensure sharpness. The new light source I use is quite a bit brighter so now I primarily scan at 200 ISO.
I enjoyed the video and found it very informative. I currently own a Nikon D3100 and am curious if it is suitable for scanning negatives. Would a 12MP camera be sufficient for producing high-quality scans? Additionally, I am looking to purchase a Micro lens.
I have hundreds of old negatives of family photos I want to scan. I'm even considering setting up a little business to do this on the side.
How's the DMAX compared to using a flatbed scanner like the Epson 600 or 800 series? What about dust and scratch removal? I use both a flatbed and Plustek scanner and I'm pretty happy with the results.
5D M4 is a tank! If it can hold that.. should be golden for any mirrorless.
Indeed!
DIY'd my own stand. Between film holders, materials, LED panel, I am in about $200. And my stand is way more stable than one of these.
This was very informative. Appreciate all of the effort you put into this. Thanks!
No problem! Thanks for watching!
Ouch, it cost me less to put my setup together, including buying an A7R2 (used)!
I just love doing my own scanning though!
As someone who shoots mainly 120, V600 is more than enough (printed up to A1) and the price didn't hurt my wallet haha...your setup looks slick tho!
Flatbeds do a good job with 120, indeed! My main gripe is how long it might take me to scans 5-6 rolls using an epson.
@@BraeHunziker true, I just accept that it will take a long ass time and just binge some series while scanning 😂
@@hmuz8388 haha well that works too!
NLP can make positives so you havent do the tiff Export Thing
What brand/model light table is in your video?
The light table for just viewing the negatives is some cheap one on Amazon I got for like $30. The one for scanning is the Negative Supply one.
definitely way too expensive for what it is, but seems like a nice kit
What’s the point of shooting film if you’re taking photos of the film with a digital camera…
I would love to see lab scan comparisons with this method. Like zooming on on grain and details. etc.
Noted! I’ll work this into my next video! Appreciate the feedback.
In order for me to do this, would I need a macro lense for my Nikon Z5
Some other lenses might work, but a macro lens will yield best results.
you dont need to crop the photo before conversion - there is border buffer
These scans came out beautifully!!
Thanks!
Top stuff Brae, those scans looked crispy sharp. Definitely an expensive option but still cool to see what results you can get 👍
Thanks dude! Dslr scanning in general is the way!
You know, I’d be interested in seeing if the light source they sell is worth the price tag. As in, what if I bought a cheaper 95+ cri light from Amazon and compared it to their basic light. Will it yield similar results?
Great question, I can try to add this to the next video.
BROOOO your a pro, holy... thats so cool!
@4:56 - WAIT, which macro lens is that?
+And in general, besides the 100mm, which Canon EF lenses are good for 35mm scanning?
**Maybe something like a 60mm-70mm range lens could get the 5Dmk4 closer to the film plane = i.e- make it all less wobbly. That 100mm is a monster!
That’s the 100mm macro EF L series
Love the 92elm music in the background. Killer artist from Philly
Great vibes indeed!
Tripod
Lightbox
Anti reflective glass
Done
👀
As someone who mainly shoots 35mm and send my negatives to a lab everytime I must say: that goatee is pimp.
hahah thank you dude
You scan in a well lit room? I thought you should have a dark room for that [since scanning in the morning vs afternoon might vary your results due to the light outside
I’ve tried both lighting scenarios and surprisingly did not find much of a different. It was some ambient window light coming in.
@@BraeHunziker That's important to understand. The reason I try to think of anything that could give you slightly different results- is that if you get those damn color shifts within different frames from the same scene you shot- then it's a real bummer to sit down and match all colors into a seamless flow. That's why minimizing ambient light seemed important. Then again, it could be that Negative Lab Pro's automatic inversion of the image- could create color shifts by itself, since the process is automatic... :\
God those 35mm scans looked fantastic, I love that cinestil xx shot
Thanks Tommy! Yeah I love the character of that stock.
I am only beginning to shoot digital and loved seeing this video on converting film stock! It is an art all its own for sure. I grew up when film stock was still being used and I did take a class in school on taking pictures and then developing them in the dark room. It does take patience and time. For right now, I am trying to get better with digital, and maybe down the road I will try film stock. Awesome video Brae!✌️
Digital makes a lot of sense for many reasons! Definitely ease your way into film if you find the time! 🤠
To save weight from the 5Dmk4 you should have tried a Holga!.
Now this is smart
I really wanted one of these kits until I saw the price, haha. I ended up going with an Epson V600 and have had pretty good results on my 120 film but I haven't tried 35mm on it yet , as I've heard it's not so great for 35mm (not sure why). I don't have any ANR glass yet but I think it's something I need to get soon because I get Newton rings on a couple frames per roll when using the provided negative carrier and it drives me absolutely crazy. I'm hoping to pick up another 35mm camera soon so I'm still considering DSLR scanning with my 5DMKIV and 100mm L Macro just for the sake of speed (and those damn Newton rings lol).
Yeah I think if they were able to bring the price down to the $750 range, this kit would be a no-brainer for many people. I’d highly recommend a film carrier for 35mm and dslr scanning! It is especially beneficial for 35mm not only for the increase in speed, but also much higher quality results 🤠
We’ve got a sale on Complete Basic Kits right now. Even at MSRP they’re less than $1000.
Brae, did you have issues with the 35mm film popping out of the guides using the full border holder? I’ve had two sets of the borders and both times, it’s like the guides were manufactured too “thin” and so the film pops out on one side and doesn’t “lay flat”
Oh weird, I have not had that issue with the 35mm guides. I had an issue with the first 120 holder I had. The inserts were too thin and the film would not fit.
@@BraeHunziker I'm curious about the full border mask for 120. Does the film go under/over the anti-newton ring glass? I haven’t seen anyone explain this clearly, and the negative supply doesn’t mention it in the instructions whatsoever. Thanks!
Interesting and informative. I'm more thinking about how I might scan really old film, and also mounted slides, that I photographed in my youth and that my parents photographed. Wow, obviously no one size fits all solution is going to exist. Thanks for the thought provoking video.
We actually developed a tool just for this. With the 99 CRI Basic light and the Mounted Slide Holder Scanning Kit you’ll be all set if you have a tripod.
I’m very keen to scan some of my great grandfathers slides using this setup! It’s great for scanning archived film.
Wow the 35mm
Great review.With real life pros and cons. But for eff sake!! $2000??!!
Alternatives?
Stand - My Manfrotto tripod allows me to reinsert the center post so I can shoot straight down.
ANR glass - See comments about museum glass. Last piece I bought from Hobby Lobby, $12
Film carriers - Bessler 23C negative carriers from my enlarger ($30 a piece on eBay)
Light source - Kaiser LED color balanced light pad $165 B&H
So I am ready to scan at 1/10th the cost. No, it isn’t anywhere near as finished and good looking as what you reviewed but did I mention my hillbilly setup is 1/10th the cost?
Don’t get me wrong, I would love to have what you have but I’m a poor cheap bastard.
Yep, many alternatives exist that will deliver similar results! Especially if you’re good with some DIY projects 👍🏻
Great video, I'm curious about what settings you have for white balance? Do you shoot auto or custom kelvin? Also what kelvin for the light source?
*white balance on camera?*
These were actually all auto white balance
@@BraeHunziker oh nice, thanks for the reply man! What about the kelvin for the light source?
If you only shoot 35mm film you could buy a Plustek OpticFilm 8300i (their latest 35mm film scanner) for under $500 with a max resolution of 68MP.
Haven’t heard of this system before! Will have to check it out. Thanks for the info.
You can get a Basic 35mm kit from us for less than that.
@@BrennanMcKissick That less than $500 includes the processing software. Also your kit is only cheaper if you already have a good enough camera & lens otherwise it's not.
@@acmdv nearly any interchangeable lens camera made within the last 5-7 years is going to have a better sensor than a dedicated scanner from Plustek or a flatbed. We’ve scanned images with a Rebel and a 60mm macro that look killer and there’s lots of users with a5XXX cameras with old, generic 1:1 macros that do great. You don’t need a $1000 lens and a $2500 camera to get good results.
When you realise the full kit costs $1700 😩
As mentioned, I think it’s a bit expensive.
Awesome detailed video, thank you!
No prob!
Definitely would love to see a more in depth video on this!!!
Word!
How does it handle 35mm slides?
There is a 35mm mounted slide holder that they sell, I haven’t used it but imagine the process is still very easy.
Finally comes scanning at home！！🥰
Happy to be here!
yes we want more! 👍
noted!
🔥🔥🔥
👊🏻❤️
I don't care for the Negative Supply modular set up - it's too fiddly, the dust brush doesn't align (who the hell designed that ?), & having to place a glass plate to keep the negative flat ? Oh no. Give me Valoi modular copy equipment anyday, be it 35mm, Medium or Large Format - it's also considerably cheaper. I note you're using Adobe software - you must have money to burn.....hey, each to their own.....
Total trendy follower stuff. Shooting analog only to then just digitize.
This a pretty reductive comment. Can’t you see that the images he’s scanned *look* like film? They don’t look like digital files at all.
I don’t get it, you shoot film then shoot that film with a digital camera… why not just cut the hipster step and shoot film and develop film or shoot digital
You can’t see the difference between a digital file and his film scans?
Hey Brae, would this work for scanning XPan shots? I'm guessing it'd just have to be in the 120 film holder instead of the 35mm?
I'd love to get into scanning my own film, but if I can't scan film from every camera I have, then I'm not sure I want to invest.
edit: Well, I'm dumb. Posted this around the 1 minute mark and at 1:30 you talk how soon they're gonna do a panorama carrier. Guess you already answered my question then hah
Haha no problem!! Yeah that new carrier will be able to fit xpan shots! You can still scan them with the OG carrier just by stitching the images together, but the new carrier will allow for single shot scans 👍🏻
Lomo Digitaliza Plus costs $79 and does exactly the same job. I'd rather stock with film for $1620. Greed in analogue photography community reached the peak!
As I mentioned, there are cheaper alternatives that achieve comparable results. I think labeling the expensive price as “greed” is a bit foolish as there are many factors that the company has to consider such as paying employees a fair wage, R&D, and many other things that consumers do not think about when it comes to running a business. At the end of the day, it’s an expensive kit and likely only makes sense for a select few. This video is just meant to demonstrate the functionality of a setup like this and the results one can achieve from film scanning with a dslr in general. Thank you for the feedback!
@@BraeHunziker I agree, there are many factors that affect the price. I don’t know the margins, the wages or the profits of NS.
Price doesn’t reflect the capability of the product IMO, accounts for all the peripherals but not for the product itself.
NS marketing is directed to those with deep pockets i think. Cheaper alternatives only prove that.
Any Digital Camera scanning equipment is as good as your digital camera and the lens are. Despite the really good quality of NS, the final result depends 90% on the camera/lens combination and your work process. NS helps to keep this work flow more controllable.
My question is: is that worth $1700 or more?
NS is not an equivalent of Hasselblad or Leica when it comes to digital scanning however, the price tag is.
You have said there are other cheaper options available and hats off to you for saying this. But the video shows only NS cheaper alternatives?
Also section “Look at that DETAIL” should apply only to the camera/lens combo. Nothing to do with NS!
In my personal opinion, money could be better spent on cheaper equivalent/flatbed scanner/dedicated film scanner (not many in 120 format), NLP (which is an amazing software), VUE scan (again gives additional options to any scanner), etc.
Keep up a good work Brae!
@@mattk8771 thanks for this! However, we do have a Basic line that’s targeted at lower price points and directly competes on price with the other cheaper offerings out there. These still work with our ecosystem and allow for an upgrade path in the future. I’m not aware of any other manufacturer in this price point that makes a 100% complete system.
@@mattk8771 yea I mean that section is literally entirely about the camera and lens. I mention nothing about NS supply being the reason for the high sharpness and detail of the scan. Rather, I mention the scan will only get better if a better camera is used. I appreciate your thoughts on the matter 🤝
Canon 🤮
Aha not really tho
hell no
🥲
It's good that film photographers have alternative methods of digitizing their negatives, but this set up as well made as it seems, works out very very expensive, and it falls flat on its face for those photographers who use 4x5 and 8x10 cameras whose numbers are actually quite considerable. I am afraid a , $1000 Epson is the way to go. Sorry, not for me. Thank you for your efforts.
Just use a epson film scanner? So much easier and stress free!
The Epson Flatbed? The results I’ve gotten have been rather disappointing particularly for 35mm. A setup like this also speeds up the process immensely. An epson flatbed isn’t too bad for 120 film but I quite prefer the colors I get from the RAW files and NLP. That’s just me though!