Thanks so much John. I just bought a 49 chevy truck to get set up for the street. I will be checking out your suspension videos. Thanks John. Oh, big fan.
Thanks man I got a turbo LS Fox in a pro bracket radial I’m looking to dial in this season and I’ve learned 10 times as much as I used to based off your videos
Just learning drag race suspensions as I'm getting started In drag racing. I've dirt track Raced for years but looking for advice in budget shocks for drag. I have different shocks from the dirt but wondering if stiffer is better on the rear or what? Any advice before I buy shocks. I'm going to be in a square body c10.
Informative video. Cool dude. I don't have the luxury of someone to film my launches. So I rigged up a camera underneath the box of my S10 drag truck, to see what my rear suspension is doing when I launch. When I downloaded the videos to my computer, what I saw was at once both amazing and jarring. Upon launch, the shock absorber immediately extends, but then right away it 'bounces back'. I'm thinking I should remove my Calvert single- adjustable drag shocks and install something like QA1 double-adjustable shocks.
This is a hugely important topic for me. I drive an modded Hellcat and struggled with traction. I did find a pretty good solution though. Demon (soft) springs all around. Drag Pak with 17” rear MT Et Street R. Lower Control arms. This completely changed the launching of the Cat from a dig and a roll where it used to just spin. The Hellcat, like the Demon needs to squat a lot to get traction, at least thats what I’ve seen and experienced.
and if dont hook...take the leaf spring clamps from rear end moving to back shackle....leave 2 clamps one infront and one behind the rear ...a d pinion snubber about an inch from floor pan.......
True statement. John, you should be a shop teacher. Our teacher got a project car donated and raffled it at the end of the year and that paid for the next years build. It was an awesome class and did a lot for our school. You should do it!
Maybe I missed it in the beginning, but where are you? What Quaker steak is this?! I used to be a Manager at the one in Pigeon Forge, TN - a few years ago...
You really are a suspension genius turbo john! With what you can do with tuning suspension engine building plus having randy with you I would say you and randy are the deadliest team out there when everything's working parts stay together etc.... I cant wait for 2020 I'm gonna wait till you and randy have both the cars out and I'm gonna spend the money and take the time to drive the 3 hours to see you guys!by fR my favorite channel I look for your vids every day ! Hope you and the family had a good Christmas! Send randy my best as well I'm sure hes building the new motor
Hell yeah. Lots of people like secrets. I get it. Some make a lot of money doing these things. But to me, if more people can know, then maybe someone will find a way to make it better. God bless. FREEDOM!!!! 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Turbo John thanks for this video, I'm building a n/a big block stroker 70 dart, I've been trying to figure out a good set up. Will start with hemi super/stock leafs and probably a 325 50 tire. This is only being built to be a mid 10 street / strip car looking at 3k with me in it. If you or anyone knows the mopar a-body & care to share any tips I'd appreciate it greatly. Thanks I enjoy your videos & the crazy bad ass cars you feature. God bless !
This video is great. I started setting up my 4 link. I don't have scales so with 220 lbs. in the drivers seat, I set the frame rails down on 2 jack stands to see where the car would balance evenly with all 4 wheels off the ground. The jack stand position to balance is 59" from the axle center line and calculated to 51.5% weight on the nose. The camshaft center line is roughly 20.5 " from the ground. The 1/4 panels buckled a bit even with an 8 point roll bar when doing the balance but it went back to perfectly straight when she was back on all 4 wheels. Thank goodness! Now that I have that measurement I guess it will help with calculating the bar spread and initial anti squat % ?
That might help for sure. The only thing you cannot find for sure is center of gravity height, but that is where the cam shaft comes in. Good luck with it.
Hello turbo john I have a 95 mustang that I turbocharged its purpose is to be driven on the street and taken to the track once in awhile on the weekend. So I just purchased a Terminator X Max and having a hard time figuring out how to control boost on the Terminator it only allows you to select dual Port Dome pressure for wastegate type. You are very good at explaining things and was wondering if you could recommend the best way to go with controlling my Boost or maybe do a video on it ?
Have a light Fox body with 700 horsepower small block and Powerglide it has 113% anti squat and performs great, but when it hits high gear it pulls left and I can't get that out of it. Any thoughts
What do you think of a high anti squat like 180 42 IC with a drag slick on the street, comprision tight about the middle on extension. Trying to plant tire but still want it to get up on the tire havent tested this yet. Thanks for any help Turbo John
Definitely appreciate any and all info on this subject!! Chevelle cutlass A body cars what are most people using nowa days? I wanna do an air bag on the rr Southside lift bars work ?
I don't know about the A body's, never messed with them. But southside lift bars work great on mustangs triangulated 4 links. If the A body is the same type, should work good as well.
Wish you would come to Georgia and try our tracks and help me with my foxbody. I'm new to the drag radials and this talk about anti-squat is blowing my mind... I can't figure it out
It depends on the car and the adjustablility. Either the lower bar has to angle up a good bit, or the upper bar needs a ton of angle down. You can do either. Mos cars I like 170ish AS, 28-34" long IC. But it seems every car is different and the numbers are just numbers. Look at the vids and see what the car is doing. Shocks play a huge role as well.
I like copper, with oring block or the best is the top fuel hoops. But for mild tunes 1500hp or less, mls seem to be fine as long as the tune is right.
The Mopar is hooking better, in this video, because of it's design from the factory. A group of "guys" called Ramchargers were the reason. So VERY BASIC info first ( with out talking about instant centers and so on).And yes you can try this at home!!! An easier explanation of why the body needs to rise ( frt. & Rear). The front going up is always obvious to all , weight will move to the rear. The rear also most go up ( or as he says have separation) in order to plant the tires. Stand on a chair at home, so you can touch the ceiling. Your feet are the tires, legs are the springs (legs and body = Suspension). PUSH ON THE CEILING! Where do your feet go - down into the chair. By the suspension pushing the body of the car up the tires go down INTO the pavement - or "plant".. Ya all remember taking to Isaac Newton, don't ya - a force in one direction creates an equal one in the other direction. Any way back to the Mopar rear springs ( leaf style). Most springs have the location pin in the center of the spring, Mopar has them OFF CENTER (shorter side to the front) this stiffens up the front section to prevent ( spring wrap or wheel hop) It's also is a shorter "lever" to apply that force to the axle, to the tires, and into the ground. There is a lot more stuff ( as the very smart gentlemen explains) for you to understand and learn. Each and every different type of suspension requires a different solution. Decide what brand car you want and read, and read some more, learn everything you can then make your corrections as you need. BUT: My suggestion ( just to bust on ya) is get a older Mopar. Best starting point ever if you need to go in a straight line!!!!!
What do you think about the Southside Machine/UMI lift bars on a sub 500 HP Mustang for mostly track use? I'm just starting out and I'm trying to build the car for the power it will eventually have rather than chase crappy suspension that's being overpowered.
I ran just southsides forever. They understood and put into practice instant center manipulation way before anyone else. I went 5.10's at 3100lbs back in the day with only ssm lowers. Great stuff. Reinforce the upper boxes, the instant center location pulls hard on the upper boxes and will rip them out if not reinforced with battle boxes or similar.
Great Tech info will be put to use. A lot guys won’t tell you these things. Subscribed would like to see what changes you make depending on how your car reacting at a event.
On your first no prep, you did better then almost everybody out there! (PERIOD) you were the car to beat! Good luck 2020 ! HAPPY NEW YEAR BROTHER 🎉🇺🇸🎈🎉🇺🇸🎉
I have some videos of my car suspension on a top sportsman style door car I bracket race with. I’d like a explanation of my suspension of what’s happening from your standpoint. My 60’ is going away and don’t know what it should do go correct it.
I feel like this would be real real important on nitrous cars. Or high revving Big blocks with big converters. I've never had anything powerful enough to crack the traction on a posi or spooled rear end on a sticky track. That being said I'd love to have either one of those!
Thanks for the info. People spend hard earned dollars on suspension parts and don't understand how to properly use them, I'm one of those. So if I'm understanding correctly anti squat is what's desired correct?
@@TurboJohnRacing thanks for the reply! Its only ran at the track with 28x10.5 Mickey Thomson's ET Streets. It's non transbrake C4 transmission as well. 1.6s is the best to date.
I have not messed with any, all of them squat. I need to do some research. I would assume antisquat still exists, it has too. Just have to see how they mount every thing up
I run IRS in my 88 Mazda, it has zero anti-squat from the factory & can't really be changed. Some of this may apply to you and sone may not, My car is only running a high 11 to low 12 in the 1/4 on footbrake. That said, I compensate mostly with shock & spring settings. Tires & bushings also come into play. Also, I eliminated the sway bars. First- spring selection, I chose a rear spring stiff enough to prevent it from hitting the bump stops, but not too stiff because I needed it to still transfer the weight. In front I'm running stock springs, in rear they are ~50% stiffer. Springs will change the way the car drives on the street significantly... 2nd- shocks- I went to a single adjustable set of KYBs, I run the rear set in the middle & front on #2 of 4... It seems to work ok. 3rd+ I try to get a good contact patch & maintain most of it during launch, IRS car tend to have a lot of camber and it increases as it squats(for cornering). To counter this I actually raised the rear of the car about 1". I haven't put in camber links yet to get the tire closer to 0* camber, but that is on the list... 4th tires- I run wrinkle wall bias ply slicks to absorb the small oscillations & shockloads. It seems to do that. More sidewall is better. They also care less about the camber issues. bushings- I reduced some of the play by putting in polyurethane & delrin bushings. Sway bars- I wanted each corner to act independent, that way if one tire hopped, it doesn't transfer to the other side. The bad about IRS cars is the anti-squat cannot be changed easily, because that requires major changes to the control arm pivot points. You can tune what you have, but short of back-halving the car, it's not going to actually change the anti-squat.
You loosened your extensions and created more separation. That is messing me up a bit... the way I read the shock information I was thinking I wanted a stiffer setting to create more separation. Thank you, I have a better understanding of what to look for.
I'm watching this after thinking about Cleetus RM race week where he said the four link did the thing I didn't exactly know what he meant until curiosity finally drove me here That cuda was nuts it's like it hunches over kinda
Sir, That was the most informative drag video I have ever watched. I am completely hooked now......get it.....lol
lol, thanks for watching
You could have said the most gripping video you've watched too lol
@@TurboJohnRacing hi how does the camber works in a awd car
John, I leaned more in this 12 minute video than I have in just about all of my reading on the subject. Thanks for the lecture, professor!
Glad it was good info for you.
Love the tech stuff like this, thank you so much for making stuff like this
Thanks so much John. I just bought a 49 chevy truck to get set up for the street. I will be checking out your suspension videos. Thanks John. Oh, big fan.
I just used all your knowledge to apply it on my rc drag car. Many thanks. Great video.
Thanks man I got a turbo LS Fox in a pro bracket radial I’m looking to dial in this season and I’ve learned 10 times as much as I used to based off your videos
Great, good luck this year. It will work out, I'll give advice all I can
Thanks a ton for sharing your knowledge! We have a car we need to get the suspension tuned on, this is a great way to evaluate the tire response
Oh yeah they do have one in the south!! I go to the Quaker Steak and Lube in Pigeon Forge,TN. Love that place! Good info about suspension...Thanks
How are you figuring your antisquat? How do you measure it?
Just learning drag race suspensions as I'm getting started In drag racing. I've dirt track Raced for years but looking for advice in budget shocks for drag. I have different shocks from the dirt but wondering if stiffer is better on the rear or what? Any advice before I buy shocks. I'm going to be in a square body c10.
Informative video. Cool dude. I don't have the luxury of someone to film my launches. So I rigged up a camera underneath the box of my S10 drag truck, to see what my rear suspension is doing when I launch. When I downloaded the videos to my computer, what I saw was at once both amazing and jarring.
Upon launch, the shock absorber immediately extends, but then right away it 'bounces back'. I'm thinking I should remove my Calvert single- adjustable drag shocks and install something like QA1 double-adjustable shocks.
This is a hugely important topic for me. I drive an modded Hellcat and struggled with traction. I did find a pretty good solution though. Demon (soft) springs all around. Drag Pak with 17” rear MT Et Street R. Lower Control arms. This completely changed the launching of the Cat from a dig and a roll where it used to just spin. The Hellcat, like the Demon needs to squat a lot to get traction, at least thats what I’ve seen and experienced.
Thank you for the excellent tutorial video on chasis set up and how to use video to analyze your suspension.
Whats on the trunk of that teal nova??? A solar panel???
hey John what if the tire is bounce in the water box thanks
The Mopar is on super stock leaf springs and they always react like that, with no anti-squat
john douglas - Yeah, that is really old school. Still works though!
Where can i get some for my 68 cuda anyone know a place
@@Matt-lx6cj summit racing. Get some shocks for them also.
Pinion snubber too.
and if dont hook...take the leaf spring clamps from rear end moving to back shackle....leave 2 clamps one infront and one behind the rear ...a d pinion snubber about an inch from floor pan.......
You would be an awesome shop teacher. Hope y’all had a merry Christmas, wish y’all and your channel all the best this New Years.
Thanks, I guess I like to talk.....lol Happy New Year
True statement. John, you should be a shop teacher. Our teacher got a project car donated and raffled it at the end of the year and that paid for the next years build. It was an awesome class and did a lot for our school. You should do it!
Well done with the documentation and commentary!
Merry Christmas to you and your family. Have a Blessed and Happy New Year!
Merry Christmas, and Happy new Year!
John where are you located. Just found your videos and really like the helpful info you give. I’m in Wilmington NC
Nice, just outside of Raleigh.
Turbo John rock on man your videos are helpful
Thanks for this detail!
Maybe I missed it in the beginning, but where are you? What Quaker steak is this?! I used to be a Manager at the one in Pigeon Forge, TN - a few years ago...
We were in Warren, OH. I have been to the original one in PA, that one has some history it looks like
You really are a suspension genius turbo john! With what you can do with tuning suspension engine building plus having randy with you I would say you and randy are the deadliest team out there when everything's working parts stay together etc.... I cant wait for 2020 I'm gonna wait till you and randy have both the cars out and I'm gonna spend the money and take the time to drive the 3 hours to see you guys!by fR my favorite channel I look for your vids every day ! Hope you and the family had a good Christmas! Send randy my best as well I'm sure hes building the new motor
Thanks man, we really have a good time messing with these cars. Fun stuff, and love to share info.
Hell yeah. Lots of people like secrets. I get it. Some make a lot of money doing these things. But to me, if more people can know, then maybe someone will find a way to make it better. God bless. FREEDOM!!!! 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thanks, great video and comments!
Nice comments and tech. Seeing that changes work in video is a great thing. Great idea on the left side only
Can antisquat be had on a leaf spring car?
What is ur option on stock suspension style gbody stuff..the only adjustment I have is 4 holes on the rear end on the lower bar.
Thank you for posting this. Very informative!
Excellent video, where did you get the beadlocks done on your Weld wheels?
MacFab beadlocks, here in NC
Turbo John
Thanks, you’re the only one that I’ve seen do beadlocks on Draglites.
Turbo John thanks for this video, I'm building a n/a big block stroker 70 dart, I've been trying to figure out a good set up. Will start with hemi super/stock leafs and probably a 325 50 tire. This is only being built to be a mid 10 street / strip car looking at 3k with me in it. If you or anyone knows the mopar a-body & care to share any tips I'd appreciate it greatly. Thanks I enjoy your videos & the crazy bad ass cars you feature. God bless !
Thanks. I don't have any knowledge about leafs. I do know most of the fast cars on leafs have caltracs with mono leaf from what I can tell.
@@TurboJohnRacing thanks for the reply, yeah I see alot of them. Cool vids ! How fast is your car in the 1/4 ?
That is such good information!!! Thanks for posting!
Do you know much about ladder bars?
There’s a Quaker steak in Columbia sc off of bluff road
Great video and great information John.
How much front end travel should be required on a leaf spring application? (69 nova)
With cal tracs
I don’t have any experience with leafs, but it looks like 2-4”
John there's a Quaker Steak & Lube in Concord NC
Man, I had no clue......thanks
Anytime homie
I love Quaker Steak and Lube! Went to one all the time when stationed in VA. Boy do I miss that place.
This video is great. I started setting up my 4 link. I don't have scales so with 220 lbs. in the drivers seat, I set the frame rails down on 2 jack stands to see where the car would balance evenly with all 4 wheels off the ground. The jack stand position to balance is 59" from the axle center line and calculated to 51.5% weight on the nose. The camshaft center line is roughly 20.5 " from the ground. The 1/4 panels buckled a bit even with an 8 point roll bar when doing the balance but it went back to perfectly straight when she was back on all 4 wheels. Thank goodness! Now that I have that measurement I guess it will help with calculating the bar spread and initial anti squat % ?
That might help for sure. The only thing you cannot find for sure is center of gravity height, but that is where the cam shaft comes in. Good luck with it.
Hey, how much do I know about anti-squat and drag race rear suspension? I know the color blue is pretty. Thanks John
Gotta start somewhere, I'm trying to figure this shit out too, good luck to ya, stay safe
I have a few vids talking about it. Just have to dive in!
These videos rock so much info and so helpful!!!!! Keep them coming
Hello turbo john I have a 95 mustang that I turbocharged its purpose is to be driven on the street and taken to the track once in awhile on the weekend. So I just purchased a Terminator X Max and having a hard time figuring out how to control boost on the Terminator it only allows you to select dual Port Dome pressure for wastegate type. You are very good at explaining things and was wondering if you could recommend the best way to go with controlling my Boost or maybe do a video on it ?
I done a few vids on boost control, but search Devin Vanderhoof on here. He is a legit Holley EFI expert and has a few vids on boost control as well.
Dead hooking = a big ole Willis💪. Awesome video man keep up the good work. Your car looks like it's really coming together for and putting in work.
Thanks, we gonna keep testing
Do you offer remote suspension tuning services john??
Have a light Fox body with 700 horsepower small block and Powerglide it has 113% anti squat and performs great, but when it hits high gear it pulls left and I can't get that out of it. Any thoughts
I like the way you convey the information.
Thanks
Awesome John, Love your how to vids!
What do you think of a high anti squat like 180 42 IC with a drag slick on the street, comprision tight about the middle on extension. Trying to plant tire but still want it to get up on the tire havent tested this yet. Thanks for any help Turbo John
I think it will take too much air pressure to keep the tire from squashing too bad
How do you get Anti-Squat? I have a Challenger 1320.
My favorite channel!!! Thanks for all the tech tips!
Any advice on setting up a 4 link to do a wheelie ? its really all i want to do lol
lol, yes the instant center should be longer 40-55" long. Radials or slicks will determine antisquat value needed.
@@TurboJohnRacing Radials, 94" wheelbase 3000lbs 1600lb front 1400 rear it is a triangulated 4 link.. does the math work similar ?
Definitely appreciate any and all info on this subject!!
Chevelle cutlass A body cars what are most people using nowa days?
I wanna do an air bag on the rr
Southside lift bars work ?
I don't know about the A body's, never messed with them. But southside lift bars work great on mustangs triangulated 4 links. If the A body is the same type, should work good as well.
Turbo John thanks John !
Love these videos!!! Do you by any chance know what ic a factory foxbody is ?
It is bad, very bad for radials. Plot it out, ride height makes a big difference. But that is why most mustangs squat, which is not bad for a slick.
There is a Quaker Stake and Lube in Greenville SC
This guy knows his stuff
What exactly do you mean but "it's trying to separate"?
Wish you would come to Georgia and try our tracks and help me with my foxbody. I'm new to the drag radials and this talk about anti-squat is blowing my mind... I can't figure it out
I've got some older vids that explain very good. Also, the one I posted last week with the weighs on the rear end watch that one.
What do you find with lower bar angle? Getting such positive AS values must have the lower bar uphill quite a bit?
It depends on the car and the adjustablility. Either the lower bar has to angle up a good bit, or the upper bar needs a ton of angle down. You can do either. Mos cars I like 170ish AS, 28-34" long IC. But it seems every car is different and the numbers are just numbers. Look at the vids and see what the car is doing. Shocks play a huge role as well.
you are really sharp !! I loved this video
Great video! And We do have thos down south,, their is one about 1.5 mi from my house in Greenville south Carolina.. Quaker Steak & Lube!
Good to see a bloke who knows his shit.
John, do you have any knowledge you could share on the late model Challengers, as far as getting them too hook?
I have not messed with one, but may at some point be able to get my hands on one.
Good job John I know you have ran nitrous and turbo what cylinder head gaskets are best for nitrous and turbo in your opinion copper MLS
I like copper, with oring block or the best is the top fuel hoops. But for mild tunes 1500hp or less, mls seem to be fine as long as the tune is right.
The Mopar is hooking better, in this video, because of it's design from the factory. A group of "guys" called Ramchargers were the reason. So VERY BASIC info first ( with out talking about instant centers and so on).And yes you can try this at home!!! An easier explanation of why the body needs to rise ( frt. & Rear). The front going up is always obvious to all , weight will move to the rear. The rear also most go up ( or as he says have separation) in order to plant the tires. Stand on a chair at home, so you can touch the ceiling. Your feet are the tires, legs are the springs (legs and body = Suspension). PUSH ON THE CEILING! Where do your feet go - down into the chair. By the suspension pushing the body of the car up the tires go down INTO the pavement - or "plant".. Ya all remember taking to Isaac Newton, don't ya - a force in one direction creates an equal one in the other direction. Any way back to the Mopar rear springs ( leaf style). Most springs have the location pin in the center of the spring, Mopar has them OFF CENTER (shorter side to the front) this stiffens up the front section to prevent ( spring wrap or wheel hop) It's also is a shorter "lever" to apply that force to the axle, to the tires, and into the ground. There is a lot more stuff ( as the very smart gentlemen explains) for you to understand and learn. Each and every different type of suspension requires a different solution. Decide what brand car you want and read, and read some more, learn everything you can then make your corrections as you need.
BUT: My suggestion ( just to bust on ya) is get a older Mopar. Best starting point ever if you need to go in a straight line!!!!!
yellow Cuda was on Super stock leaf springs, the Shocks are the adjustments
I honestly appreciate this
man I don't think you are never not smiling awesome and that is a great place to eat
Thank you . I learned so much
New to the channel. Really like what you're doing. Cheers
The guy is awesome , humble and knows what he is talking about.
Thanks ya'll......I try to share some of the info that could help others.
@@TurboJohnRacing I grew up with Matt , Kelsey and David Reese also pretty good buddies with Timmy Rainer.
I'm glad I came across this channel great information.
Thanks
What do you think about the Southside Machine/UMI lift bars on a sub 500 HP Mustang for mostly track use? I'm just starting out and I'm trying to build the car for the power it will eventually have rather than chase crappy suspension that's being overpowered.
I ran just southsides forever. They understood and put into practice instant center manipulation way before anyone else. I went 5.10's at 3100lbs back in the day with only ssm lowers. Great stuff. Reinforce the upper boxes, the instant center location pulls hard on the upper boxes and will rip them out if not reinforced with battle boxes or similar.
What 4 lug bead locks are you running? I'm running 15x10 draglites w/6.5bs with screws now
They were double beadlocked by MacFab out of NC. Great job!
Very knowledgable guy John,thx for the video
Yes sir, hope it can help some
Don't have these in the South? Quaker Steak on Bruton Smith BLVD in Concord right off 85 near Concord mills and CMS.
Didn't realize they have moved south. I have only seen them up North, good to know
@@TurboJohnRacing It's been there for over 15 years...
Great Tech info will be put to use. A lot guys won’t tell you these things. Subscribed would like to see what changes you make depending on how your car reacting at a event.
Merry Christmas to you and your family! Let go 2020 / definitely your not a 🦆 ! She moves on every track / best of luck brother
Thanks
On your first no prep, you did better then almost everybody out there! (PERIOD) you were the car to beat! Good luck 2020 ! HAPPY NEW YEAR BROTHER 🎉🇺🇸🎈🎉🇺🇸🎉
What's your verdict on the Hoosier vs MT for No Prep or street racing?
So far I love the Hoosier, gotta get more passes.
Another great informative video. You definitely know what you doing. Your car working Excellent ! Keep it up.
Thanks, we are having fun with mine
@@TurboJohnRacing Yeah mine is coming out of the garage next season. Happy New Year to you !!!
I have some videos of my car suspension on a top sportsman style door car I bracket race with. I’d like a explanation of my suspension of what’s happening from your standpoint. My 60’ is going away and don’t know what it should do go correct it.
I don’t know how you send videos on here. From the video. I got a idea what my problem is but would like to see if I’m right?
My s10 is doing the same thing as aces I'm checking that drive shaft loop.
Amazing videos John, keep it up.
I feel like this would be real real important on nitrous cars. Or high revving Big blocks with big converters. I've never had anything powerful enough to crack the traction on a posi or spooled rear end on a sticky track. That being said I'd love to have either one of those!
Thanks for the info. People spend hard earned dollars on suspension parts and don't understand how to properly use them, I'm one of those. So if I'm understanding correctly anti squat is what's desired correct?
It depends on the tire and surface! If on a radial, yes you need over 100 percent anti squat so it can plant the tire!
@@TurboJohnRacing thanks for the reply! Its only ran at the track with 28x10.5 Mickey Thomson's ET Streets. It's non transbrake C4 transmission as well. 1.6s is the best to date.
Thanks John for the video and info .This is good stuff.
John, this was an amazing video.
Thanks, glad you liked it
Really cool informative video John. Question are you originally from the south?.
Yes, been in NC my entire life.
@@TurboJohnRacing ok I only ask because my grade school days lmao I knew a someone with the same name, he moved away
Very informative video. Thank you!
I get confused, is squat good or not?
It depends on tires and car.....maybe
Learned a lot, thanks for the info!
another great vid, thank you!! You ever work with IRS cars ? I just can't get mine figured out lol
I have not messed with any, all of them squat. I need to do some research. I would assume antisquat still exists, it has too. Just have to see how they mount every thing up
@@TurboJohnRacing well if you ever want to learn I have a car to learn on lol
I run IRS in my 88 Mazda, it has zero anti-squat from the factory & can't really be changed. Some of this may apply to you and sone may not, My car is only running a high 11 to low 12 in the 1/4 on footbrake.
That said, I compensate mostly with shock & spring settings. Tires & bushings also come into play. Also, I eliminated the sway bars.
First- spring selection, I chose a rear spring stiff enough to prevent it from hitting the bump stops, but not too stiff because I needed it to still transfer the weight. In front I'm running stock springs, in rear they are ~50% stiffer. Springs will change the way the car drives on the street significantly...
2nd- shocks- I went to a single adjustable set of KYBs, I run the rear set in the middle & front on #2 of 4... It seems to work ok.
3rd+ I try to get a good contact patch & maintain most of it during launch, IRS car tend to have a lot of camber and it increases as it squats(for cornering). To counter this I actually raised the rear of the car about 1". I haven't put in camber links yet to get the tire closer to 0* camber, but that is on the list...
4th tires- I run wrinkle wall bias ply slicks to absorb the small oscillations & shockloads. It seems to do that. More sidewall is better. They also care less about the camber issues.
bushings- I reduced some of the play by putting in polyurethane & delrin bushings.
Sway bars- I wanted each corner to act independent, that way if one tire hopped, it doesn't transfer to the other side.
The bad about IRS cars is the anti-squat cannot be changed easily, because that requires major changes to the control arm pivot points. You can tune what you have, but short of back-halving the car, it's not going to actually change the anti-squat.
Here's my car(really old video)- 1.61 60ft. ua-cam.com/video/gkfUx8yb4Sg/v-deo.html
What a great compilation video. Thank you for sharing.
You need to tell us what the rear suspension is on the different cars so we can compare what is doing what
Awesome footage, thank you.
You loosened your extensions and created more separation. That is messing me up a bit... the way I read the shock information I was thinking I wanted a stiffer setting to create more separation. Thank you, I have a better understanding of what to look for.
Awesome video
Which quacker was that? If it was the one in valley view you were literally 5 minutes from my work.
Warren, OH
Go to the QS&L all the time in Charleston.
I'm watching this after thinking about Cleetus RM race week where he said the four link did the thing
I didn't exactly know what he meant until curiosity finally drove me here
That cuda was nuts it's like it hunches over kinda
Great info as usual!
Awesome informative vid John, thanks!