Kenny, I have lot to be thankful for this year. Among the many things I am grateful for is discovering your channel. Thank You So Much! Happy Thanksgiving!
Thank you so much for this video. The exact same thing was happening to me on my boat trailer and I couldn’t figure out why air just kept coming out of that one brake line. I suspected a cylinder, but thought it would leak fluid if that was the issue but I see from your video it will not always leak Fluid Thanks again for the video!!
Having never seen this in all my years of of Turning wrenches great call on this as yes it can happen. And yep like yourself I enjoy working on anything mechanical and can loose track of time very easily.
This is true, I have been working on vehicles for 40 years myself and had this happen only once. Took me a little while to figure it out. I honed it out and good to go.
I ran into the water issue with a hydraulic clutch. Customer complaint was excessive freeplay and not able to get in gear when below zero temperatures. Pulled it in, clutch worked fine. Fluid was black. Did a flush and bleed. No more complaints.
I have had this happen on new cylinders too - both masters and wheels. I fitted a new master on a 1957 Austin Healey and it did nothing but suck air. I ended up fitting a different type of master that was a new TRW from a TR4 and it has worked fine. It doesn't really matter what car or truck... it sure does happen sometimes and even on new stuff. I am huge on changing brake fluid but I only use ATE from a metal cans as plastic bottles let moisture in. I also just fitted a tandem system (not power) to my 1957 GMC and it blew out the rear cyls and I only discovered that last night. My axle went out and when I pulled the rear cyls they were both weeping. I'll be changing the front cyls too! This truck still had the OEM master and lines.... all changed now. Sorry this happed to you but you sure found it and realized what it was. I am working today to. I'll have a video posted later tonight about my "stuff" as I've got to pull the axle out of my old truck. The old Dana 44 just gave out two days ago so I guess everything happens for the best as if that would not have happened I would not have discovered the wheel cyls were blowing out for a few day and maybe would have done more damage. Nice work! Bobby
Hey Bobby! Thanks for you stories , I appreciate them! I love hearing people stories on what they've found & accomplished !! I would like to see the videos you have . I'll see if I can find them thru your profile. Thanks for watching !! Kenny
@@WrenchingWithKenny Hi Kenny! As you can see I love just about any project. You stick to cars and trucks, as I should, but I have gotten so much out of UA-cam that I think I should try to help when I can. Thanks for the sub!!! I had a channel here that I worked on for years and got hacked and lost 2,500 subs. Trying to build back so every sub matters. I just posted getting the axle out yesterday and gave you a shout out while showing the Healey when I had the air bleed problem. Getting the axle out wasn't too hard it's just getting it to the guy without a truck! I think I have an answer that may make you laugh... Bobby
Before you got to the answer my first thought was a pinhole in the body of the wheel cylinder. After that a pinhole in the line or connections somewhere.
I have only found one other video describing this same scenario. Last week, driving home pedal all the sudden felt weak and spongy. When I got it home I looked for visible leaks. Pulled all the wheels for a thorough inspection. No leaks, must be the master. Right ? Replaced it, bled it, bled all 4 wheels, pedal felt great with truck NOT running, as soon a I crank it, pedal goes nearly to the floor. I did notice that right rear wheel cyl kept purging air. This has me stumped with no visible leaks and nearly everything is new. (94 silverado ). The other video explained that when it's running, the brake booster gives you enough force to compress the air being sucked back in through the wheel cyl. But with truck not running, you don't have enough force to compress the air. Either way, I'm going to replace the wheel cyl that kept purging air and I will update. Thank you. UPDATE: I bought 2 new wheel cyls and went to blees and the suspect side (right rear) bled after only two attempts. Now i have the same issue on the left side, but worse, with a brand new wheel cyl. All other 3 wheels bleeds a nice steady stream. I am going to lose my mind. I guess i will put my presumed "good" old wheel cyl back on and see if it bleeds. . I will update again. UPDATE #2 I removed the new wheel cyl that was constantly bleeding air and put the good (used) wheel cyl back on. And voila ...2 pumps and I had a steady stream of fluid. I bled the master again and went around all the wheels one more time and all were steady stream of fluid and now I finally have a firm pedal. So don't think a "new" wheel cyl can't do this same thing. It was definitely sucking air. Thank you again for the video !!!
May be a dumb question but i replaced a busted brake line on 73 beetle so drum brakes and when i pump the brakes and crack open the rear bleeder screws i cant seem to get any fluid or air just nothing any tips or advice would be much appreciated as this is my first time ever working on brakes
I always close the bleed valve during the pressure stroke as fluid is coming out...That slave was in a bad way though because of the water in there.....🤔😳🇬🇧
This is my nightmare, i been dealing with this headache for 3 days. I replaced my 2 rear cylinders and have this problem. They are new and no leak that i assumed they were bad and now im sure this is my problem. I bleed my porp valve with centenred pin locking the piston with no results. Also replaced my master brake and still nothing. Ima buy another 2 cylinders and i hope that is my problem
Changing brake fluid is good maintenance . Way back I had a 1975 AMC wagon that would not bleed . Starting at the right rear , always air . It only bled when I started it up and the power brakes were working . I always put something under the pedal before I open any lines to change parts to minimize fluid loss . And I give everything a gravity bleed first before using the pedal . It's good to see where that cylinder let air in and know why .
Once a mechanic, always a mechanic. Great video's.
Thank you !!
Exactly what iv got. Didnt know where else to look. Thank you sir!!!
You know you're in the right field when you gravitate back to the shop on your days off.
Absolutely !!!
Thanks for the video! Was scratching my head about all the air kept coming out of the line. Now I see!
I’ve learn more watching your channel then when I was in high school.
Kenny,
I have lot to be thankful for this year. Among the many things I am grateful for is discovering your channel. Thank You So Much! Happy Thanksgiving!
Happy Thanksgiving To you and your family Thomas !
Your very lucky and blessed to feel that way about your work.congrats. happy thanksgiving
Thank you and Happy Thanksgiving!!
Bleed a few systems over the years. Haven't seen this one, *YET* . Will definitely keep it in mind!
Excellent video Kenny. Very educational too.
Thank you !!
Thank you so much for this video. The exact same thing was happening to me on my boat trailer and I couldn’t figure out why air just kept coming out of that one brake line. I suspected a cylinder, but thought it would leak fluid if that was the issue but I see from your video it will not always leak Fluid Thanks again for the video!!
Having never seen this in all my years of of Turning wrenches great call on this as yes it can happen. And yep like yourself I enjoy working on anything mechanical and can loose track of time very easily.
This is true, I have been working on vehicles for 40 years myself and had this happen only once. Took me a little while to figure it out. I honed it out and good to go.
Really interesting- thanks for posting this
Happy Thanksgiving Kenny! So glad that you are back!
Happy Thanksgiving Mike !!!
Happy Thanksgiving and thanks for sharing the knowledge
Happy Thanksgiving Manish !!
Thank you for the advice. Happy Thanksgiving
Thank you for watching and Happy Thanksgiving to you as well !!
I ran into the water issue with a hydraulic clutch. Customer complaint was excessive freeplay and not able to get in gear when below zero temperatures. Pulled it in, clutch worked fine. Fluid was black. Did a flush and bleed. No more complaints.
I have had this happen on new cylinders too - both masters and wheels. I fitted a new master on a 1957 Austin Healey and it did nothing but suck air. I ended up fitting a different type of master that was a new TRW from a TR4 and it has worked fine. It doesn't really matter what car or truck... it sure does happen sometimes and even on new stuff. I am huge on changing brake fluid but I only use ATE from a metal cans as plastic bottles let moisture in. I also just fitted a tandem system (not power) to my 1957 GMC and it blew out the rear cyls and I only discovered that last night. My axle went out and when I pulled the rear cyls they were both weeping. I'll be changing the front cyls too! This truck still had the OEM master and lines.... all changed now. Sorry this happed to you but you sure found it and realized what it was. I am working today to. I'll have a video posted later tonight about my "stuff" as I've got to pull the axle out of my old truck. The old Dana 44 just gave out two days ago so I guess everything happens for the best as if that would not have happened I would not have discovered the wheel cyls were blowing out for a few day and maybe would have done more damage. Nice work! Bobby
Hey Bobby! Thanks for you stories , I appreciate them! I love hearing people stories on what they've found & accomplished !! I would like to see the videos you have . I'll see if I can find them thru your profile. Thanks for watching !!
Kenny
Found your channel and I subbed !!
@@WrenchingWithKenny Hi Kenny! As you can see I love just about any project. You stick to cars and trucks, as I should, but I have gotten so much out of UA-cam that I think I should try to help when I can. Thanks for the sub!!! I had a channel here that I worked on for years and got hacked and lost 2,500 subs. Trying to build back so every sub matters. I just posted getting the axle out yesterday and gave you a shout out while showing the Healey when I had the air bleed problem. Getting the axle out wasn't too hard it's just getting it to the guy without a truck! I think I have an answer that may make you laugh... Bobby
Happy Thanksgiving Kenny! Great video as always.
Thank you sir !! Happy Thanksgiving !!
Before you got to the answer my first thought was a pinhole in the body of the wheel cylinder. After that a pinhole in the line or connections somewhere.
I also like thee fact that cars don't talk back!
Interesting scenario. I usually pressure bleed most everything so I'd have not found that.
Happy Thanksgiving!
happy thanksgiving too you too :) and btw i can recommend the movie "Free Birds" if you have not seen it with your grandkids :)
I have only found one other video describing this same scenario.
Last week, driving home pedal all the sudden felt weak and spongy.
When I got it home I looked for visible leaks. Pulled all the wheels for a thorough inspection. No leaks, must be the master. Right ? Replaced it, bled it, bled all 4 wheels, pedal felt great with truck NOT running, as soon a I crank it, pedal goes nearly to the floor.
I did notice that right rear wheel cyl kept purging air.
This has me stumped with no visible leaks and nearly everything is new.
(94 silverado ). The other video explained that when it's running, the brake booster gives you enough force to compress the air being sucked back in through the wheel cyl. But with truck not running, you don't have enough force to compress the air.
Either way, I'm going to replace the wheel cyl that kept purging air and I will update. Thank you.
UPDATE: I bought 2 new wheel cyls and went to blees and the suspect side (right rear) bled after only two attempts. Now i have the same issue on the left side, but worse, with a brand new wheel cyl. All other 3 wheels bleeds a nice steady stream. I am going to lose my mind. I guess i will put my presumed "good" old wheel cyl back on and see if it bleeds. . I will update again.
UPDATE #2 I removed the new wheel cyl that was constantly bleeding air and put the good (used) wheel cyl back on. And voila ...2 pumps and I had a steady stream of fluid.
I bled the master again and went around all the wheels one more time and all were steady stream of fluid and now I finally have a firm pedal.
So don't think a "new" wheel cyl can't do this same thing. It was definitely sucking air.
Thank you again for the video !!!
Brake knowledge is so much invaluable. Thank you. 🪛🔧
Guess I got lucky my drum cylinders had no rust inside when I replaced the seals.
That is good news! Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧
Happy Thanksgiving
Happy Thanksgiving to you as well !!
Genius
Happy Thanksgiving! I understand, it's the solution to problems that make it feel rewarding. People in general cause more problems than solutions 😂
You got that right !! Happy Thanksgiving !!
May be a dumb question but i replaced a busted brake line on 73 beetle so drum brakes and when i pump the brakes and crack open the rear bleeder screws i cant seem to get any fluid or air just nothing any tips or advice would be much appreciated as this is my first time ever working on brakes
I don't understand how moisture gets in a closed system if it's never opened
I always close the bleed valve during the pressure stroke as fluid is coming out...That slave was in a bad way though because of the water in there.....🤔😳🇬🇧
I have usa 2016 toyota Corolla, master cylinder at driver side ,abs module at passenger side,where to start bleed.tq
This is my nightmare, i been dealing with this headache for 3 days. I replaced my 2 rear cylinders and have this problem. They are new and no leak that i assumed they were bad and now im sure this is my problem. I bleed my porp valve with centenred pin locking the piston with no results. Also replaced my master brake and still nothing. Ima buy another 2 cylinders and i hope that is my problem
I know this is an old comment but I have the same issue. Did new wheel cyls fix your problem ?
Changing brake fluid is good maintenance . Way back I had a 1975 AMC wagon that would not bleed . Starting at the right rear , always air . It only bled when I started it up and the power brakes were working . I always put something under the pedal before I open any lines to change parts to minimize fluid loss . And I give everything a gravity bleed first before using the pedal . It's good to see where that cylinder let air in and know why .
I do the same thing having something hold the pedal down to minimize fluid loss . Thanks for sharing your story !! I appreciate that !!
Recommended internal for changing brake fluid, as I've been told, is every 4 years.