Hi Adam, That is one hell of a good buy once you have had a few go’s on it you will soon get the hang of it. Take care of yourself and stay safe.🛠️🛠️⭐️👍👌
Hi Adam It's well worth your time learning some basic metal turning skills. With all that you do, you'll find a metal lathe incredibly useful. The 4 jaw chuck is extremely useful in "chucking up" square or irregular pieces or to turn off centre pieces. The jaws should be reversible to expand its capacity. The jaws on the 3 jaw chuck are removable but are indexed and can only fitted in only one sequence. Just a tip. Good luck.
Check that both wires from the capacitor are connected: one wire to the live and the other to the neutral. If they are then I would suspect the capacitor has failed. The electrolite in them dries out. See if you can read the capacitance and working voltage on the old unit. They are fairly cheap to buy. The capacitance value must be the same, but the voltage can be higher but not lower.
I reckon yor uld Brook is brook bor. I suspect your motor's starting capacitor is very tired, or wires to it are no good. Some of the things you got are for a milling machine, these had a hole at the narrow end of the taper for the arbour to screw into. The acme threaded shafts look like (short) lead screws (either that or someones being doing some screw cutting). Milling cutters still handy on a lathe for counter bores or flat bottom holes where the ID is too small for a boring bar. Its also possible to mill keyways in on a lathe, by mounting the shaft on the tool post and the end mill in the chuck. Done that a few times before I was able to afford a milling machine (My old engineering lecturer would not have approved haha) You think your bits are heavy.... even my smaller lathe makes some of your bits look like a model. Its certainly a very dinky steady. I was always brought up to be biased against Myford, being bought up on Colchester and Bridgeport machines, but I would say you had two very good bargens. You would not have got all the tooling and tips that came with it for what you paid. Not sure what heating you might be having in your shed, but if its Gas, beware you get a lot of water vapour when burring LPG. I've found the best thing to stop rust on slideways is vaseline. One of the best things I ever brought was a quick release tool post, not because I wanted to change tools more quickly, but its so much easier and more accurate in regards to getting the cutting edge at centre hight.
I'm no expert but I thought the same thing. Either totally missing, out of circuit or badly degraded start capacitor. Probably drew far too much start-up current and the house breaker went quicker than the fuse in the plug. Likely in that big metal tube on top.
@@georgebayliss3291 Yep. Pretty well certain to be the starter capacitor. Unlikely to be Open Circuit since it kicked over under full starting load but a capacitor that old is certain to be degraded. Having a fair sized motor on the end of a string of odds and sods wiring to drop the supply voltage can't be helping either.
I agree… Start Capacitor. Take the can open, match size and numbers (capacities). Find at local motor shop to build friendship. Bring motor along. Maybe a reasonable shop fee to install capacitor, check motor over, maybe new brushes, and that wiring mess cleaned up! Good Luck from Wisconsin, U. S.
@@theoztreecrasher2647 Yep, I agree. 👍 As you say through all that dodgy wiring and the length of the extension, and then back through the cables to the house won't have been good!
You need a type D trip more than likely you have B or C trips which tend to be the ratings used in most houses but heavier electric motors take longer to run up to speed and or take a bigger starting current. I had to fit D rated trips to my garage supply as they would trip out when I switched on the 110 volt transformer for my angle grinders.
I'd remove the belt from the motor, and just try the motor on its own. The problem looks like the motor is stalling rather getting away freely. That capacitor may have gone leaky, or otherwise failing internally. The key question to answer at this stage is; is that a motor run capacitor, or a motor start capacitor - they're two quite different animals, and need to be wired correctly. Now, it's been a while since I last chased up any data on a motor, but I can say that Brooks have always kept excellent records and have helped us with motor wiring diagrams going back to the early '50s. Crompton have also shown themselves to be as good. As long as you have a model number for the motor, and ideally a serial number, they should be able to root out the info for you.
gears for screw / thread cutting , item in larger box fly cutter for milling machine use , 4 jaw independent chuck for holding odd shapes and fixed steady is worth well over the price for everything mega result
I had an issue with a compressor which would trip the power in the workshop, mines separate from the house electrics, I looked into the power breakers, rcd's or trip switches or whatever you call them these days and I had a 16 amp type 2 or something, I changed it out for a 20 amp type 2 and I've never had the power trip out since! I'm no sparky by a long chalk but it works and I'm happy with that! There's so much you've got to watch with electricity. As for the lathe itself "good buy" is a bit of an understatement! I hope you left quick sharp! You more or less stole it! 😂
Try plugging the motor in while it’s off the lathe. You started it with the chuck drive engaged, there should be a lever to disengage the chuck drive with the motor still running, probably the big knob on top ??.
As well as checking the capacitor, I would be concerned about the voltage (shows 200V on the plate, the maximum may be 220V) and start current (roughly 13.2 Amps), given the size of the mains cable, fuse etc. Also check for coil to case shorts and earth safety (horseshoe, hot hand, mode). Can't remember whether you have a Megger.
Possibly not enough amperage on the lead all most like using a welder on a extension lead try it with out any thing connected to it ie the belt Just seen you have motor of machine so try it like that From andy in devon
First I start by removing the Earth wire from the house and you trip the electrics in the house and run a Earth stake in the ground.and then I change the capacitor on top of the motor and strip and clean the inside of the motor
What a bargain you’ve got there,well done
thats a bargain very good all round machine a must have tool with so many uses ,
Looks a great bit of kit Adam 👍🏻👍🏻
Hi Adam, That is one hell of a good buy once you have had a few go’s on it you will soon get the hang of it. Take care of yourself and stay safe.🛠️🛠️⭐️👍👌
Hi Adam
It's well worth your time learning some basic metal turning skills. With all that you do, you'll find a metal lathe incredibly useful.
The 4 jaw chuck is extremely useful in "chucking up" square or irregular pieces or to turn off centre pieces. The jaws should be reversible to expand its capacity. The jaws on the 3 jaw chuck are removable but are indexed and can only fitted in only one sequence.
Just a tip.
Good luck.
Check that both wires from the capacitor are connected: one wire to the live and the other to the neutral. If they are then I would suspect the capacitor has failed. The electrolite in them dries out. See if you can read the capacitance and working voltage on the old unit. They are fairly cheap to buy. The capacitance value must be the same, but the voltage can be higher but not lower.
New capacitor first Adam, could be just that as it looks old and knackered a bit like yourself really 😇
I reckon yor uld Brook is brook bor.
I suspect your motor's starting capacitor is very tired, or wires to it are no good.
Some of the things you got are for a milling machine, these had a hole at the narrow end of the taper for the arbour to screw into. The acme threaded shafts look like (short) lead screws (either that or someones being doing some screw cutting). Milling cutters still handy on a lathe for counter bores or flat bottom holes where the ID is too small for a boring bar. Its also possible to mill keyways in on a lathe, by mounting the shaft on the tool post and the end mill in the chuck. Done that a few times before I was able to afford a milling machine (My old engineering lecturer would not have approved haha)
You think your bits are heavy.... even my smaller lathe makes some of your bits look like a model. Its certainly a very dinky steady. I was always brought up to be biased against Myford, being bought up on Colchester and Bridgeport machines, but I would say you had two very good bargens. You would not have got all the tooling and tips that came with it for what you paid.
Not sure what heating you might be having in your shed, but if its Gas, beware you get a lot of water vapour when burring LPG. I've found the best thing to stop rust on slideways is vaseline. One of the best things I ever brought was a quick release tool post, not because I wanted to change tools more quickly, but its so much easier and more accurate in regards to getting the cutting edge at centre hight.
Probably missing the capacitor that does the phase shifting to get it started.
I'm no expert but I thought the same thing. Either totally missing, out of circuit or badly degraded start capacitor. Probably drew far too much start-up current and the house breaker went quicker than the fuse in the plug.
Likely in that big metal tube on top.
@@georgebayliss3291 Yep. Pretty well certain to be the starter capacitor. Unlikely to be Open Circuit since it kicked over under full starting load but a capacitor that old is certain to be degraded. Having a fair sized motor on the end of a string of odds and sods wiring to drop the supply voltage can't be helping either.
I agree… Start Capacitor. Take the can open, match size and numbers (capacities). Find at local motor shop to build friendship. Bring motor along. Maybe a reasonable shop fee to install capacitor, check motor over, maybe new brushes, and that wiring mess cleaned up! Good Luck from Wisconsin, U. S.
@@theoztreecrasher2647 Yep, I agree. 👍 As you say through all that dodgy wiring and the length of the extension, and then back through the cables to the house won't have been good!
Have a sniff of the motor near the vents, if it smells a bit acrid then it's burnt out.
Yep. There's nothing quite like the smell of burnt varnish to tell you you've been a complete prat! 😱😉😊
That lathe is an absolute gift. If you had to buy a new motor you still won't be out of pocket
If the long run to get power into your shed net heavy enough to supply the load, it will burn out a motor when starting. Try the motor in the house.
Yep. But do it in winter. That way when you burn the house down at least you'll be warm! 😱😜😁
Mrs Mancave's timing was perfect, just in time for the money shot!
Why oh why don't you have another consumer unit in the man cave then you won't trip out the house 😂😂😂
You need a type D trip more than likely you have B or C trips which tend to be the ratings used in most houses but heavier electric motors take longer to run up to speed and or take a bigger starting current. I had to fit D rated trips to my garage supply as they would trip out when I switched on the 110 volt transformer for my angle grinders.
I'd remove the belt from the motor, and just try the motor on its own. The problem looks like the motor is stalling rather getting away freely.
That capacitor may have gone leaky, or otherwise failing internally.
The key question to answer at this stage is; is that a motor run capacitor, or a motor start capacitor - they're two quite different animals, and need to be wired correctly.
Now, it's been a while since I last chased up any data on a motor, but I can say that Brooks have always kept excellent records and have helped us with motor wiring diagrams going back to the early '50s. Crompton have also shown themselves to be as good. As long as you have a model number for the motor, and ideally a serial number, they should be able to root out the info for you.
Try a cap as others said, Get some vidaflex sleeve to go over the old rubber wiring.
The shaft with the tooth thing is a slitting saw milling cutter some one has rigged up to run between centers for cutting slots or keyways.
gears for screw / thread cutting , item in larger box fly cutter for milling machine use , 4 jaw independent chuck for holding odd shapes and fixed steady is worth well over the price for everything mega result
good luck with that. you got a good deal on that
I had an issue with a compressor which would trip the power in the workshop, mines separate from the house electrics, I looked into the power breakers, rcd's or trip switches or whatever you call them these days and I had a 16 amp type 2 or something, I changed it out for a 20 amp type 2 and I've never had the power trip out since! I'm no sparky by a long chalk but it works and I'm happy with that! There's so much you've got to watch with electricity.
As for the lathe itself "good buy" is a bit of an understatement! I hope you left quick sharp! You more or less stole it! 😂
Try plugging the motor in while it’s off the lathe. You started it with the chuck drive engaged, there should be a lever to disengage the chuck drive with the motor still running, probably the big knob on top ??.
Lovely be carfull with electricity tho sparks and farts don't mix very leathal ha 😂
A Bargain no way , More like a steal , the tools alone with the tips etc , I think you lost a pound and found a twenty pound note.
Hi larry in the USA the starter for the motor is bad, its the thing on top of the motor
As well as checking the capacitor, I would be concerned about the voltage (shows 200V on the plate, the maximum may be 220V) and start current (roughly 13.2 Amps), given the size of the mains cable, fuse etc. Also check for coil to case shorts and earth safety (horseshoe, hot hand, mode). Can't remember whether you have a Megger.
Possibly not enough amperage on the lead all most like using a welder on a extension lead try it with out any thing connected to it ie the belt
Just seen you have motor of machine so try it like that
From andy in devon
Hi check the capacitor on the top with your meter
that plastic cover though is broken too
great Video, Used a Myfod Lathe in my Uni Training.1970 Change the motor. Trip too sensitive May be The Starter Cap. Good Luck
Extension aren’t doing you any favours
Have you sold that other lathe if not I would be interested
Capacitor .. i think that's the cylinder on top of the motor
First I start by removing the Earth wire from the house and you trip the electrics in the house and run a Earth stake in the ground.and then I change the capacitor on top of the motor and strip and clean the inside of the motor
There's an oil can. At least you know what that does 👍
Your breaker might only be 16amp
My welder runs on direct 32amp.
Which the 16 amp trips out in house.
Check your trip in house
run cap shot?
I would get the motor rewound Adam if the windings are burned out in the motor
change start-capacitor will probably solve the problem.
Might be a bad CAP ?
I am sure you could glue those broken covers with a twin pack
you can say it worked for just a small moment
Is it 3 phase ?
I think you just need to try it with a new capacitor
Myford motor on e bay £4.20 at the mo
red to red black to black and blew it up lol
Let er Rip
repair dont with black tape and long nose pliers cool
Faulty or missing capacitor
Think your blowing in the wind with this one 💩